Certification by Faculty Mentor

This is to certify that, Lovely Gupta, student of National Institute of Fashion Technology; Gandhinagar,
Gujarat, has successfully completed her “Fashion industry internship and training work” in Orient Craft
Ltd., Gurugram as production merchandising intern in partial fulfillment of completion of 2 years post
graduate programme “Master of Fashion management” as prescribed by department of fashion
management studies, National institute of fashion technology, Gandhinagar.
She carries out this report during the period from 4th June 2018 to 30th July 2018 under my
mentorship.
Acknowledgement

The internship opportunity I had with Orient Craft Ltd. was a great chance for learning and
professional development. Therefore, I consider myself as a very lucky individual as I was provided
with an opportunity to be a part of it. I am also grateful for having a chance to meet so many
wonderful people and professionals who led me through this internship period.
I am using this opportunity to express my deepest gratitude and special thanks to the MD of Orient
Craft Ltd., Mr. Anup Thathai , who in spite of being extraordinarily busy with his duties, took time out
to hear, guide and keep me on the correct path and allowing me to carry out my project at their
esteemed organisation.
I express my deepest thanks to my industry mentor Mr. Vikram Saluja, Mr. Dev Jyoti Banerjee and Mrs.
Abhilasha Gautam for his continuous support, encouragement, and valuable guidance throughout my
internship. I would further like to thanks all my colleagues and staff for their valuable inputs.
Last but not the least I would like to express my sincere thanks to my institute, National Institute of
Fashion Technology, Gandhinagar and my faculty mentor Mrs. Priti Gadhavi (Asst. Professor) for
allocating me this organisation and helping me out in the best possible way.

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Table of Contents
Certification by Faculty Mentor ................................................................................................................. 2
Acknowledgement .......................................................................................................................................... 3
OBJECTIVE ......................................................................................................................................................... 7
To understand the adapted merchandising process. Analyse it with detailed study. ......... 7
SUB – OBJECTIVE............................................................................................................................................................... 7
METHODOLOGY- ...................................................................................................................................... 7
Sampling size: ..................................................................................................................................................................... 7
LITERATURE REVIEW................................................................................................................................... 7
About The Company....................................................................................................................................... 8
Mission................................................................................................................................................................ 8
Vision................................................................................................................................................................... 8
Introduction ...................................................................................................................................................... 8
Company profile ............................................................................................................................................ 10
Product Mix:.................................................................................................................................................... 10
Aesthetics and Functionality: ................................................................................................................... 10
How They Create:.......................................................................................................................................... 10
Other Facilities:.............................................................................................................................................. 11
Main Products: ............................................................................................................................................... 11
INTRODUCTION............................................................................................................................................. 11
ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT ................................................................................................................... 11
Objective Of Merchandiser ........................................................................................................................ 11
Merchandising Department ...................................................................................................................... 12
16. Order Confirmation ................................................................................................................................................ 14
16.1 Post Order Processes ..................................................................................................................................... 14
Major clients: .................................................................................................................................................. 16
Factory Layout ............................................................................................................................................... 18
Workflow ........................................................................................................................................................................... 19
Departments in Orient Craft...................................................................................................................... 20
Collection and showroom ........................................................................................................................................... 22
Prototype and SMS development: ........................................................................................................................... 22
Material development and sourcing: ..................................................................................................................... 22
Production and quality control department: ...................................................................................................... 23
Production department: ......................................................................................................................................... 23
Quality control department: ................................................................................................................................. 23
Purchase Order................................................................................................................................................................ 25
PO includes the following information ............................................................................................................ 25
Cutting............................................................................................................................................................... 27
Emroidery & Sequin Attachment ............................................................................................................ 27
Stitching............................................................................................................................................................ 27
Washing & Finishing .................................................................................................................................... 27

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Final Inspection ............................................................................................................................................. 28
Quality Initiative............................................................................................................................................ 28
Design Innovation & Creativity ................................................................................................................ 28
Designing Studio............................................................................................................................................ 29
Product Range ................................................................................................................................................ 29
Woven Garments ........................................................................................................................................... 29
Knitted Garments .......................................................................................................................................... 29
Home Furnishing........................................................................................................................................... 29
Sampling Department.................................................................................................................................. 30
INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................................................. 30
Primary Survey................................................................................................................................................................ 30
Secondary Survey ........................................................................................................................................................... 32
Grading in CAD ................................................................................................................................................................ 32
Proto Sample Making .................................................................................................................................................... 32
Ensuring the fit ................................................................................................................................................................ 32
Quality parameters in Sampling............................................................................................................................... 33
Process flow Chart: ........................................................................................................................................................ 34
Roles and Responsibilities of a merchandiser .................................................................................... 34
Cause of Sample Section Dilemma and its Impact in the Apparel Industry ............................. 35
Types of Machines ........................................................................................................................................ 37
Pre-production sample ............................................................................................................................... 37
Size set .............................................................................................................................................................. 37
Sewing the sample ........................................................................................................................................ 37
Inputs ................................................................................................................................................................ 38
Records Maintained ..................................................................................................................................... 38
Some general procedures: .......................................................................................................................................... 39
Designing Department ................................................................................................................................ 39
Range Development Process..................................................................................................................... 40
Steps involved in the process of range development ...................................................................................... 40
CAD Room.......................................................................................................................................................................... 42
Plotting ............................................................................................................................................................................... 42
Fabric Issue from Fabric Store.................................................................................................................................. 42
Embroidery ....................................................................................................................................................................... 42
Basic Work Flow ............................................................................................................................................................. 43
Cutting Sub Departments....................................................................................................................................... 43
Ticketing ....................................................................................................................................................................... 43
Fusing: ........................................................................................................................................................................... 43
Parameters affecting the fusing process: ........................................................................................................ 43
Checking: ...................................................................................................................................................................... 43
Bundling: ...................................................................................................................................................................... 44
Sewing department: ................................................................................................................................................. 44
Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department: ................................................................................. 44
Embroidery department: ............................................................................................................................................ 44
Printing department: .................................................................................................................................................... 45
Sampling........................................................................................................................................................... 45
Final inspection ............................................................................................................................................................... 46

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Marker Making.............................................................................................................................................. 46
Cost Sheet ........................................................................................................................................................ 46
Presentation.................................................................................................................................................... 47
Accessory and Trim Store .......................................................................................................................... 47
INTRODUCTION .............................................................................................................................................................. 47
Process Flow: ................................................................................................................................................................... 47
My Roles During Internship ............................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Learning .................................................................................................... Error! Bookmark not defined.
Experience ....................................................................................................................................................... 48

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OBJECTIVE

To study the merchandising process in Orient Craft at Gurugram and conduct a detailed study
of various departments.
SUB – OBJECTIVE
 To examine merchandising activities from sampling to finishing
 To examine pre-production process step by step.
METHODOLOGY
 Primary data
Data is collected through observation. Examine departments, direct interaction with the
merchandisers and other team members.
 Secondary data
Secondary data is collected by study of the each steps of process and work flows, time and action
calendar, past records and departmental reports.
Sampling size:
 Undertake secondary research for understanding the reasons and problems in operating
procedures adapted by the industry.

 Time and action calendar (T&A) and tech pack and every document which necessary for
the study has been taken as samples for the study. Study was done under the guidance of
the Merchandising manager of the department.

LITERATURE REVIEW
A merchandising is the most important department in garment industry. All the work done in the
process are done under the merchandiser. If the merchandiser manages the flow of the system the
right way, there’ll be very less problems faced.
Time consumed in the merchandising process is the biggest issue. Approvals and bulk fabric in-house
consumes approximately 75% of the total pre-production activity time and as far the most time-
consuming task. Whole supply chain needs a system which
 Reduces time.
 Co-ordinates internally for all pre-production activity.
 Producing high quality clear-cut specifications for manufacturing and quality purposes.

About 60% of the delays are at pre-production stage and remaining at the production stage and
reduction of such time can help the company in meeting the delivery dates on time. Controlling the
delay would enable the company to reduce the deviation from the schedules lead time and honour the
delivery date. By setting standard operating procedures for the merchandising activities and sub
activities we would be able to remove unnecessary steps that was followed by the company. By
removing unwanted steps we are able to save time and make merchandising process more specific or
much smoother.

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About The Company
Established over 40 years ago, Orient Craft is today India’s NO.1 garment design house, backed
by a large world class-manufacturing infrastructure. With state-of-art production facilities across 21
units and a combined capacity to produce nearly 2,00,000 pieces per day, OC aims to deliver high
quality in wide variety of products to suit its customers needs. Currently the annual turnover of OC is
250 million USD (first cost, resulting in over a billion dollars of retail products and growing).
At OC people take pride in being a design led organisation. Their strength to keep abreast with
latest fashion trends and their worldwide sourcing network helps them meet client satisfaction with
every delivery they make. Cutting edge technology, modern infrastructure and innovation in design
are some of the words that describe them.
While they continue to strive and deliver through performance, while complying with all Health
and Safety norms & leap ‘behind and beyond the needle point’ to give back to the society. In their
endeavour to be a socially responsible corporate, they execute various programs and initiatives to
uplift the local, rural and marginalised sectors.

Mission
“Establish a healthy business environment for a close and mutually beneficial relationships among the
manufacturers, exporters in the process ensuring a steady growth in the foreign exchange earnings of
the country.”

Vision
“So many dreams yet to be realized, tasks yet to be accomplished, destinations yet to be reached, targets yet
to be met, words yet to be spoken, promises yet to be kept.”

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Introduction
This report is an account of hard work done and experience gained in the company having a reputed
stand in the international market and the policy of keeping itself updated with the changing times.
This report mainly deals in the application of theoretical knowledge into the practical experience.
This report attempts to present my experience in Orient Craft Ltd. and is aimed at documenting the
understandings of various departments of export house and analysing the role of production
merchandiser in the export house where I was working as a production merchandiser intern. It begins
with the introduction of the company i.e. Company profile.
This report includes introduction of the company, its plant location, various departments, the client
base and some export figures giving idea of exports at Orient Craft Ltd.
First objective discusses the view of different departments working in synchronisation in order to
process an export order. The role of each department is explained in context with what contribution
they make towards the export house.
Second objective gives the brief idea of the merchandisers and what role they play in the
organisation. They are the one who interacts with the clients and update the company with the client’s
requirements.

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Company profile

Company name: Orient Craft Limited

Founded in: 1978
Address (Head Office): Plot no. 80P, Sector-34, Near Hero Honda Chowk, Gurugram-122001, India
Telephone no: 0124-4511330
Fax: 0124-4511330
Registered Office: F-8, Okhla Industrial Area, Phase-1, New Delhi 110020
Corporate Office: 7d, Maruti Industrial Area, Sector-18, Gurugram 122015, Haryana
Email id: www.orientcraft.in
Key People: Mr. Sudhir Dhingra(Chairman and Managing Director)
Mr. Anoop Thatai(Joint Managing Director and Director)
Mr. K.K Kohli(Joint Managing Director and Director)
Mr. Anoop Dhanda(Executive Director and Executive Director Of Finance)
Mr. Sameer Rai Magoon(Company Secretary)
Share Capital:
Authorised Capital: 600,000,000
Paid up Capital: 197,742,112

Product Mix:
Orient Craft uses a wide array of fabrics to create distinct styles for its buyers. From naturals (cotton,
linen) to synthetics (viscose, polyester) and their blends, various fabrics are handled with the care
they demand. Looking at the growing buyer demands and the fast pace at which fashion moves today.
Orient has developed a diverse and futuristic product mix.

Aesthetics and Functionality:

With a strong design team which gets its inspiration from global sources and a global technical team
providing manufacturing and infrastructure know how, they have achieved the perfect blend of
aesthetics with functionality.

How They Create:

Work at Orient happens very closely with the fashion forecast. The design team visit a no. of fashion
forums, seminars and exhibitions like the premier vision, heimtex etc. the designers are stationed in
the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail information, retailing trends, market share
analysis, brand evaluation and other retail information. Apart from the keen interest they take in
making the products, they also try to induce what India as a source can offer in terms of embroideries,
hand work, natural - cotton, linen and knit, silk to synthetics –viscose, polyester, polyamide, blends,
micro fibers and much more. Apart from the constant feed of the fresh concepts in the product mix,

10
there products also have a distinct genre of style complimenting individual buyer needs. They work
very closely with the buyers design team and satisfy the certain buyer beyond expectations.

Other Facilities:
In house comprehensive washing facilities for all kinds of washing, like bleach, caustic, acid
wash, CPL wash.

Main Products:
High fashion and basic garments covering the following segments:

• Ladies: Dresses, tops, blouses, jackets etc.

• Kids: Dresses, tops, Skirts, etc.

INTRODUCTION
Merchandising or merchandiser means commodities or goods delts in by merchant. A merchant is the
person who acts as a link between buyer and vendor; he is the one who center and integral part of a
garment industry.
Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a vendor’s
company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full manufacturing process of
garment right from getting the order, approving the design, ordering fabric, cutting, production and
up to the shipment of the order i.e. he is the whole sole of the company. A merchant is a fulcrum of the
organization which involves coordinating and follow up against tight schedules. He has to take care of
quality, delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which the merchant is
liable for the same percentage in the company profile.

ROLE OF THE DEPARTMENT

• To look for the appropriate market

• To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification

• To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with them

• Getting orders

• Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval

• To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production

• Coordinating with the PPC and production

Objective Of Merchandiser
• To create market

• Understanding buyers’ requirements

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• Sourcing of materials, fabrics

• Select the range

• Creating the product

• Taking buyers approvals

• Negotiation with buyer

• Procuring the orders

• Materializing the order

• Execution the order

• Coordination between production and production planning department

• Dispatching the shipment

Merchandising Department
1.Receipt of Inspiration/Mood-Board/Tech-pack/GSS/Garment from the buyer: Merchandising
team works on seasons, which are set according to buyer’s calendar. Merchandising & design team
may get inspiration or theme/trends from the buyer before the start of the season in the form of
design, mood board, new fabric quality, different processed inspirations (wash/ embroidery/ print/
sequence etc.), and color forecasts. Merchandising team passes this inspiration to the design-
development team for design creation based on the buyers input.
Merchandising usually receives the buyer’s requirements in the form of a ‘tech-pack’ or ‘garment
specification sheet’ (GSS) which has the details about technical aspects of garments and all
specifications pertaining to the particular style like fabric details, trim details, value additions etc. This
document acts as a bible for the merchandising department. Merchandisers sometimes also receive
the GSS with only technical specifications of the garments like seam length, sleeve length and other
measurements. This can be precursor to the tech-pack which also has details about the quality & kind
of fabric, trims, special elements etc. The buyer sometimes might provide physical garment along with
tech-pack so that the merchandiser can get a clear understanding of the buyer’s requirements. This is
usually done if the design of the garment is complex and tricky, or the garment has a lot of special
elements in it.
2. Feasibility Checking and Analysis with Central Planning: Merchandisers checks with the Central
Planning about the capacity of the factory whether availability is there for taking up a new order or
not. Apart from checking feasibility of the factory in terms of manpower-days, the merchandiser also
checks the feasibility of the style with the sampling department. If the style doesn’t proves to be
feasible, the buyer is suggested for reconsidering the quantity or style according to the capacity and if
that doesn’t works the style is dropped.

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3. Checking availability of fabric with the stores: One of the most important pre-production
activities of the merchandising department is to make the samples. Sample is a prelude to the order
confirmation. For this purpose, first the fabric availability is checked with stores. If the fabric is
available, the Inter office memo (IOM) is issued to the stores department. The stores issue the fabric
to the sampling department, keeping the IOM with them. In case when the IOM is forwarded, a copy of
the IOM is maintained in the stores. In case the fabric is not available in the stores, the fabric sourcing
department procures the fabric after receipt of work order from the merchandiser. The merchandiser
follows up with the sourcing department for the fabric availability.
4. Sample Indent: Once the merchandiser receives the fabric, sample indent is raised and sent along
with the fabric and physical copy of the tech-pack signed by the merchandiser to the sampling
department. The sample prepared at this pre-production stage is called Proto Sample.
5. Proto Sample: Proto sample is the first stage of the sampling process. It is considered to be a
critical phase as it provides the first impressions of the product to the buyer. Proto sample is prepared
from the most similar substitute fabric available in the store. This is usually done in the base size
(suggested by the buyer).
6. Approval by internal sampling Quality Audit (QA): Proto sample is reviewed by the internal
Sampling QA with respect to the tech-pack which the merchandiser sends along with the sampling
indent. In case of any differences and variations, the proto sample is revised and remade by the
sampling department. It is re-submitted to the internal QA for approval. Only if the QA approves, the
sample, it is handed over to the merchandiser for further actions. In case of any minor comments, the
QA informs the merchandiser over the mail. The merchandiser submits the sample along with these
comments to the buyer QA for further approval.
7. Approval of buyer: Most of the buyers have their representatives in the exporting countries called
‘buying house’. They act as mediator between the buyer and the exporting company. Buying house is
authorized by the buyer for approval and rejection of samples. The proto sample is sent to the buyer
nominated QA in the buying house for further approval. The Buyer QA reviews the sample with
respect to the tech-pack. If the deviations are within the allowance, sample gets approved. The
updated tech-pack with approval & signature of the buyer QA is sent to the merchandiser via mail but
if the deviations are above the allowance level the sample gets rejected and the reasons for rejection
are updated in the form of comments in the tech-pack which is sent to the merchandiser for further
actions. This process happens repeatedly until the sample gets approved.
8. Sales Man Sample (SMS): Sales man sample is the final sample submitted to the buyer in the pre-
order process. The buyer requests for the SMS samples to check on the sales of the garment before
placing the final order quantity. The buyer sends the SMS to each and every retail store for obtaining
the number of pieces required in each of those stores. The buyer places the order quantity depending
upon the feedbacks from the retail stores which are obtained on the basis of end customer’s reactions.
It is made with original fabric as mentioned in the tech-pack. The manufacturing process of salesman
sample is similar to the proto sample. It is made in the base size with all colors. The quantity of
salesman sample depends upon the number of retail stores to which the buyer supplies the final
garments. This sample is chargeable as the buyer incurs profit on it.
9. Approval by internal QA: Salesman sample is reviewed by the internal Sampling QA with respect
to the tech-pack which the merchandiser sends along with sampling indent. It is reviewed keeping in
13
consideration, whether comments made during proto-sample are incorporated or not. In case they are
not incorporated then the sample will not be approved and rework takes place. Only when the
internal QA is satisfied, the sample is sent to the buyer for further approval.
10. Approval of buyer: Buyer QA reviews whether all the comments made during the proto sample
are incorporated in the salesman sample or not. If changes are not up to the mark, the sample gets
rejected and is sent again with comments in the tech-pack. If the sample is as per the buyer
expectation then the sample is approved.
11. Tentative cost sheet is prepared: Meanwhile the tentative cost sheet is prepared by the
merchandiser and sent to the buyer along with the salesman sample. The salesman sample is usually
charged 1.5 times the cost of the garment. This is done to compensate the scale of production that
cannot be achieved. The cost sheet includes fabric cost, trim cost, cut to make cost or manufacturing
cost, overheads cost, rejection cost, value addition cost, commission costs etc. and the profit margin.
12. Approval of buyer: The buyer may agree to the price quoted or he may negotiate the price with
the merchandiser. This process happens until an agreement is arrived between the merchandiser and
the buyer. The buyer confirms the order via mail through a PO number. This is an indication for the
merchandiser to proceed further.
13. Entry is done in the ERP: The merchandisers make corresponding entries like style no., PO no.,
item creation no. of the order in the ERP (CRM) in requisite fields and the CO (customer order no.)
gets generated. When the approval request is given, the message is sent to the approver system that is
monitored by the Business Intelligence (BI). A stipulated time is given for the approver to approve.
Once he approves the status of CO changes and the CO gets locked. The merchandiser is not able to
make any further changes on the CO. But in case any changes have to be made, the request has to be
sent to the approver again. After getting the approval the status of the CO changes and changes can be
made further. Finally the BI locks the cost sheet in Moves (ERP).
14. Authorization of the physical copy of cost sheet by the VP & CEO: The physical printout of the
cost sheet is sent to the VP & CEO for authorization.
15. Physical copy sent to BI for reference: The same copy of the cost sheet is sent to the BI for their
reference and record keeping.

16. Order Confirmation

16.1 Post Order Processes
1. Order confirmation mail is sent to concerned departments: Order confirmation mail has details
about style, item code, fabric quality & quantity of garments which is sent by the buyer to the
merchandiser. On this basis, the Order Confirmation chart (OCM chart) is prepared by the
merchandiser. The OCM (chart) is a consolidated chart which has details about the fabric quality,
item no., colour, country, total quantity, fabric consumption, details of trim etc. It also has details
about trims quality, kind and quantity, process details like panel wash, embroidery ,printing etc.,
tentative time and action plan, Buyer PO, size ratio etc. This information is sent to the fabric
sourcing department, trim sourcing department, sampling, and central IED and Central Planning
so that they plan their production activities accordingly.
2. Work orders are sent to fabric sourcing and trim sourcing: OCM chart is the prelude step for
procuring fabric. The merchandiser gets the consumption of the fabric from the Sampling
14
 department. In case of solid dyed fabric the OCM chart and tech- pack are sufficient for the fabric
sourcing department to procure fabric but in case of yarn dyed fabrics the merchandiser tries and
reduces the consumption by working on the fabric layout prepared by the sampling department.
This renewed fabric layout is sent to the buyer for his approval. Once the buyer approves it, the
merchandiser sends this to the fabric sourcing department. The OCM chart and the fabric layout
are the prerequisites for the fabric sourcing to procure fabric. The Trim sourcing department also
sources the trims on receipt of the OCM chart.
3. Indent is issued to sampling for fit sample development: The merchandiser raises Indent to
sampling for development of fit sample. The physical copy of the indent is kept with the sampling
department for their reference. The fit sample can be made with a similar substitute of the fabric
or the same fabric. The merchandiser checks the availability of the fabric with the stores and if
available then an IOM is issued and handed over to the sampling department. The sampling
coordinator gives the IOM to the stores and collects the required fabric. The stores keep the
physical IOM with them for their reference.
4. Fit Sample Development: The need to make a fit sample is to check the fitting of the garment on
the required body/dress forms. Fit sample is made with a lot of accuracy in the base size with
original fabric or substitute fabric with similar quality. If the fit sample is approved grading is done
to obtain other sizes.
5. Approval by internal QA: Fit sample is reviewed by the internal Sampling QA with respect to the
specification mentioned in the tech-pack. Usually the fitting is tested by putting the garment on a
dress form. In case of any variations or major comments by the QA, the fit sample is revised and
remade by the sampling department. It is re-submitted to the internal QA for approval. Only if the
QA approves the sample, it is handed over to the merchandiser for further action.
6. Approval of buyer: The Buyer QA reviews the sample with respect to the tech-pack. In case of any
comments the tech-pack is updated and sent to the merchandiser via e-mail. Until the fit sample is
approved, the whole process is repeated. In case the buyer QA is satisfied with the fit sample, he
signs the fit sample section in the tech pack and sends it to merchandiser.
7. Indent issued to sampling for PP sample: Pre production sample (PP sample) is a crucial sample as
PP sample becomes as a guideline for the production departments to follow. This sample is made
with the original fabric and trims. The merchandiser arranges for the fabric from the store by
issuing an IOM. The store usually gets the 1st lot of the bulk. The PP sample is made from this 1st
lot. The IOM is kept with the stores and the fabric is issued for PP sample.
8. Pre Production sample: PP sample is made in the base size and few other sizes & colours if
required as per buyer’s requirement. Any issues in terms of fabric or trims are brought to the
notice of sourcing department as corresponding changes can be made in bulk.
9. Approval by internal QA: PP sample is reviewed by the internal Sampling QA with respect to the
specifications mentioned in the tech-pack. In case of any variations or major comments by the QA,
the PP sample is revised and remade by the sampling department. It is re-submitted to the internal
QA for approval. Only if the QA approves the sample, it is handed over to the merchandiser for
further action.
10. Approval of buyer QA: The Buyer QA reviews the sample. In case of any comments the tech pack is
updated and sent to the merchandiser via mail. This process will happen until the buyer QA
15
 approves the sample. In case the buyer QA is satisfied with the PP sample, he signs the PP sample
section in the tech- pack and sends it to merchandiser.
11. Release of production file: The merchandiser hands over the PP sample to the PPE department.
The PPE department makes a style analysis report. This is also called risk analysis report. It is sent
to the merchandiser via e- mail. The production department gets consolidated information in the
form of a production file. The production file has the following documents:
a) Tech-pack signed by merchandiser.
b) Pattern signed by pattern master.
c) PP sample approved comments from buyer.
d) Order confirmation chart signed by merchant.
e) Consumption chart by sampling department signed by merchant & pattern master.
f) Process route given by merchandiser.
g) Swatch card of fabric, Swatch card of thread, shade no & tex no. and swatch card of trims.
h) PO sheet

12. Pre-production meeting (PPM): Central planning department calls the Pre-Production meeting.
Cutting, Sewing, Finishing, R&D, merchandising, fabric audit and factory planning & Quality
personnel departments attend it. All the issues pertaining to the fabric & production are discussed
in PP meeting. This is done so that all these departments have a clear understanding on fabric and
any other production pertaining issues. The PP file is then handed over to the cutting department
in the production floor. The minutes of the meeting are circulated to all the attendees.
13. Production monitoring: Once the production starts (PCD – Production Cut Date), the merchandiser
closely monitors the daily production by referring daily production report (DPR). This is to ensure
the delivery as per committed delivery date. In case of any issues, merchandiser visits the factory
and tries to resolve the issues.
14. Shipment: The merchandiser sends the shipping details to the logistics department 10 days before
the shipping date. The shipping details have the PO no., buyer name, style, agent office address, the
size ratio, colour assortment, carton dimension, net weight etc. The documentation department
coordinates with logistics to book the vessel as per the buyer’s requirement. The shipment may
happen through the forwarder, or buying office. Once the consignment is dispatched the buyer is
informed.

Major clients:
1. J. Crew
2. American Eagle
3. Marks & Spencer
4. Banana Republic
5. Tommy Hilfiger
6. GAP
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7. Anthropologie
8. Abercrombie & Fitch
9. British Home Stores
10. Free People
11. Urban Outfitters Inc.
12. United Apparel
13. Monsoon
14. House Of Fraser
15. Old Navy
16. Ralph Lauren
17. Napapuri
18. LOFT
19. POLO Ralph Lauren
20. ZARA Home
21. KOHL’S
22. Armani
23. Dillard’s
24. Talbots
25. Nordstorm
26. Restoration Hardware
27. JOE Fresh
28. Macy’s
29. The White Company
30. Hugo Boss
31. Superdry
32. Denim &Supply Ralph Lauren
33. French Connection
34. Calvin Klein
35. Style&co.
36. Hollister California
37. Athlete
38. John Lewis
39. ANN Inc.
40. Charter Club
41. Reitman’s

17
42. Debenhams
43. next.

Factory Layout
Basement
1. Fabric Store
2. Accessories Store
3. Cutting/CAD/CAM
Ground Floor
1. Reception
2. Accounts
3. Human Resource
4. Fabric Testing Lab
5. Production Floor
6. Finishing Department
7. Packaging
8. Machine Maintenance Department
9. Washing Section
First Floor
1. Production Floor
2. Finishing
3. Packaging
4. Quality Control
Second Floor
1. Merchandising
2. Product Development
3. Research and Development
4. Production Plan & Control
5. Sample
6. Export Documentation
7. Electronic Data Processing(EDP)

18
Workflow

Buyer

Product Developer

Merchant

Sampling
Fabric
Testing

Marker Planning

Spreading
Cutting

Bundling and ticeketing

Research and development

Production

washing
Finishing and pricing
Packaging and finishing

19
Departments in Orient Craft

This department is not buyer specific and work for all the buyers that company caters to. The major
role of department is to get business for the company. Foundation of all other departments, it assists
in converting their ideas into reality. First interaction of the buyers is with PD department, but in
some cases PD is directly done by the merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as
well as presentation for new development/line adoption to buyer, Samples/mocks developed are just
for style and design purpose and measurement do not play a major role. If buyer select any of their
style then further development will be done by PD department, once order has been booked further
follow up and communicating regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned
merchandiser.

Classification

20
 Internal design External design

Own design line Inspiration Tech pack

Product development is done on the following basis:

Mock or samples will be prepared for selection

If selected then meeting samples will be made

Costing and negotiations

21
 Salesman Sample

Grading

Order Confirmation

Passed by merchandiser then for product

development

Collection and showroom

The design and development department of Magnolia Martinique consists of a showroom which has
an area of 4,000 sq. ft. The showroom has several 100 unique designs. In addition, our in-house design
team develops a fresh collection every season. Each piece of collection is carefully researched for cut,
fabric, trim and technique and can be the starting point of complete range.

Prototype and SMS development:

The prototype room which employees over 100 staff can quickly and efficiently develop client
requests. To make the process error free, there is a separate section to deal with SMS request. It has
independent cut /stitch/embroidery/wash/iron/packaging facilities.

Material development and sourcing:

After designing, physical products need to be created using the material best suited for it. This means
sourcing for the best fabrics, trims, techniques and effects. This is a special team with the purchase
department to source and import materials from around the world. They import fabrics and trims
from Europe and Asia (Korea, Taiwan, Japan, and China).
Cotton and cotton blends are imported from China, acetate and nylon from Korea, polyester from
Taiwan and cotton and viscose from India.

22
Production and quality control department:
Production department:
Production capabilities of Orient Craft include all manner of knitted and woven production. The
company does not produce leather. The specialised category of the organization is knit and woven.
  The production department consists of 12 stitching lines with 40 machines per line.
  Per day in house production is 3000 units and per month it produces 7,500 units.
 Stitching machines used for production are of Japanese brand: Brother, Juki, Hashima and
Pegasus.

 The washing unit/ iron house/ final control facilities are all designed to handle the level of
production.

 Facilities are compliant with applicable laws regarding factory design, system, labour, etc.
production material meet international safety norms with regards to harmful chemical and
dyestuffs.

Quality control department:

The director of the company to maintain its objectivity heads quality control department of Magnolia
Martinique.
This department includes the following things:

Merchandising:
Merchandisers are the key link between the factory and the customer. They communicate the
customer demands to ensure and assure quality optimally using capabilities of the export house by
generating enough profitable business.
Role of Merchandisers in ensuring Quality is to provide correct and clear information on time to
relevant departments, ensure fabric quality, on, time sealer sample availability, timely preparation of
budget for fabric and trims, ensuring right and first time submissions to buyer to save time and
reputation.

Merchandising Activities
 Receive detailed information from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and fibre content,
trim requirements and quality, colour details and various other details like washing, printing,
embroideries etc.

 Make proto types, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing and initial
costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at sampling stage etc.

 Receive the PO, confirm price, category, delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.

23
  Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare the fabric
and trim indent.

 Coordinate with R & D and I E for further detailed R & D reports; coordinate with PPC for
production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.

 Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of budget at each
stage. Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and
lot swatch is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for
approvals and after approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory. Merchandiser has to
do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has to do costing and plan
the whole process from fabric ordering till ship cancel date and it is called as Time and action
calendar (T&A Calendar).

Before starting the costing for a style, merchandiser should consider the following:

• Fabric consumption

• Margin

• Labour Expenses

• Exchange rate

• Finishing

• Thread Consumption

• Packaging

• Trims and Accessories cost

• CMP (Cut Make Pack)

Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is compactly
prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and trims/accessories to get on-
time deliveries, from suppliers in house and other T & A is for Internal working for prompt working
for style.

Simultaneously merchandiser works with shipping department for banking vessel and other mediums
for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing necessary document for
custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and accessory. At same time Account
Department assist for payments.
OC Generation
OC stands for ORDER CONFIRMATION, is an internal document and should be generated by concerned
merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs. of order confirmation from buyer. It is information as well
24
as an alarm to all departments that company has received an order.
OC includes the following information:

• Purchase Order (PO) Number

• Delivery Date

• Quantity

• Fabric with tentative consumption

• FOB ( freight on board)

Purchase Order
PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Magnolia Exports; it is an
evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.

PO includes the following information

• Delivery Date

• Terms of sale

• FOB

• Currency

• Ships cancel date

• Destination

• Quantity

• Ship mode
Fabric Program (FP)
It is an internal document issued to fabric department, for sourcing the required fabric required for
the style.
Material Indent
It is an internal document issued to Accessory Department, for sourcing the required accessory and
trims for style.
Costing
The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of
garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also negotiate the
cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be such that it suits the
buyer and also the export house. At the pre-production stage initial costing is done so as to get an
idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw material cost; manufacturing cost,
washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the margin of the company. After the buyer has
placed his order and production sample is approved then the final costing is done. The final costing

25
 uses fabric average from CAD, cost of fabric & trims etc.
A cost sheet includes:
 Buyer’s name
 Quantity
 Style Budget
 Garment

Fabric description
Total cost fabric includes:
 Greige fabric cost
 Finishing
 Brushing
 Shrinkage
 Calendaring
 Freight
 Cartage
 Wastage
 Dyeing/printing
 Average consumption
 Embroidery
 Total fabric consumption

Washing
Accessories cost includes:

 Main label
 Poly bags
 Wash care label
 Stitching threads
 Price ticket
 Embroidery threads
 Tags
 Beads, sequins, elastic, etc.


26
Cutting
The cutting section is equipped with the Gerber spreader and cutter that ensure 100% perfection. It
improves turnaround times and expedites the cutting process with minimal waste and cost. The
section also has Bend Knife machine and Fusing machines. Most modern CAD systems from Gerber,
Tukatech and Lectra are employed for Computerised Precision Pattern Making, Grading and Marking

Emroidery & Sequin Attachment

The embroidery division at Orient Craft is equipped with more than 40 computerized machines of 20
heads each, from Barudan and SWF. The facility also has 5 sampling machines with 4 heads each.
Advanced designing system and elaborate matching processes are employed to achieve intricate
patterns and sophisticated illustration.

Orient Craft Ltd has expertise in hand embellishment, computerized embroidery, computerized
sequence attachment and laser cutting:

• Capacity of 1,80,000 units/month for hand embellishment garments

• 52 computer embroidery machines including 12 specialized machines for sequin attachment

• 2 laser cutting machines

Stitching

With its wide range of advanced machinery & proficient labor capable of producing stylized garments
with perfection & finesse, the sewing section has a hi-tech infrastructure. The production lines are
fully integrated and operational with various types of powered sewing machines from Brother, Juki,
Pegasus, Yamato & special machines like Computerized Welt Pocketing Machine, Belt Loop
Attachment Machines, Multi Needle Kansai Special Machines & Tunnel Cover Seaming Machines.

Washing & Finishing

• Hi-tech machinery and cutting edge technology facilitate high quality washing and wrinkle-free
finishing. The in-house washing capacity is one million pieces per month. The laundry division is
well equipped with automatic washers, extractors, PERK and dryers. It has ultramodern facilities
like Enzyme, Stone, Sandblasting, Pigment Dying, Over Dying and Vertical Garment Processing with
Auto Tilting etc. Various pressing machines and heat transferring machines are also available to

27
 ensure improvement in high functional performance of the garment through specialty finishing.Well
equipped to handle all types of garment dyeing & wash programs such as :

• Pigment , Reactive and Fluorescent dyeing

• Color and PP Spray

• Sulphur and Tie Dye

• Tea Stain and rubber ball wash

• Enzyme and Acid Washes

• CPL

Final Inspection
Orient Craft has an efficient Final Inspection Department equipped with the latest equipment’s. This
section plays the most crucial role in ensuring 100% perfection of all the products. It is inspected that
all the features demanded by the clients are designed or not. The experts thoroughly check all the
products to make sure that the perfect products are delivered to the client. The products carry the
brand image of the company. That’s why utmost care has been taken in this section to ensure that all
the products are faultless.

Quality Initiative
Quality plays the key role in the business expansion of any corporation. It’s the core of a business for
what it gets acceptance and credibility amongst its clients. All possible measures are taken at Gaurav
International to maintain the world-class quality. At Gaurav International, we endeavour to achieve
the best quality from two points of view.
One is from aesthetic point of view and another is service ability of the product. The aesthetic value
can be judged through inspection while the service ability of the product can be determined through
testing. It is evident that without testing, it is not possible to evaluate the hidden qualities of any
commodity. In the age of cut throat competition, apparel buyers specify their quality requirements.
Quality is the most significant factor behind the customer satisfaction that Gaurav International has
achieved since its inception.

Design Innovation & Creativity

• Team of Designers - ensure developments match the expectations and create newness in the line
being created for a particular brand. The Team ensures that we interpret the latest trends in the
markets and are working on WGSN, Runway trends and are constantly travelling to Europe and
US to be aligned ever changing fashion.

• Multi product capabilityState-of-the art manufacturing facilities supported by Automated Spreaders

, CAD &

• CAM
28
• Technical Excellence: Team of 8 technical experts who ensure production equipment is
regularly upgraded.

Designing Studio
Design & innovation are the USP of OC, making the design studio an eminent part of the company.
The division focuses on providing services such as market intelligence & trend forecasting both to
fabrics & end line products. In addition, we also work on creating mood boards as well as developing
products from direction provided by our customers.
The large team of designers include graphic designers , who with the help of CAD (Computer Aided
Design), focus on designing customised embroidery layouts and lace patterns which are developed in
our in-house facilities.
Design being the DNA of the team at OC, we ensure providing customised designs based on seasons &
trends for our customers.

Product Range
Through an exquisite range of products, Gaurav International has positioned itself as a premier
manufacturer of woven, knitted, leather garments and home furnishing products. The expertise that
the Gaurav International has achieved is expressed through its exclusive ranges of products. Before
manufacturing a range of products, latest fashion trends, demands in the market, and the
requirements of the clients are thoroughly analysed.

Woven Garments
The woven division of Gaurav International is equipped with state-of-the-art technology. Leveraging
on its technical superiority and the expertise of the professionals, this division has achieved an in-
house annual production capacity of 15 million pieces. A skilled workforce experienced in Computer
Aided Design and manufacturing systems is carrying out responsibilities with dedication and
cooperation. Keeping abreast of the changes in the industry it is continuously upgrading itself. Gaurav
International presents an exclusive range of woven garments including shirts, pants, ladies tops,
trousers, cargo pants and shorts, skirts etc.

Knitted Garments
Gaurav International offers a wide range of knitted garments for men, women and kids including T-
shirts, collar-shirts, night wear, skirts, frocks, overcoats, jerkins, jackets, sportswear, etc.

Home Furnishing
In order to cater to the rising demands for home furnishing products, Gaurav International ventured
into this sector with a commitment to excel. This division offers a new dimension to the Gaurav
International to further expand its business empire. Armed with an experienced and dedicated team
of professionals, the home furnishing division is catering to the needs of clients, delivering world-class

29
products of the finest quality, at reasonable rates. The range of products includes table linen, drapery,
top of beds, throws, cushion covers, etc.

Sampling Department
INTRODUCTION
The sampling department is the department in which the buyer’s requirement actually transformed
into a garment based on the styles and designs given by the buyer. The buyer itself sends a design to
the company of the desired garment.
Garment samples are inevitably important and are developed tested before starting the bulk
production. It means making a sample of the garment /fabric which requires to be sold. Sampling is
one of the main processes in Garment Industry and it has a vital role in attracting buyers. Because the
buyers generally places the order after they are satisfied with the quality of the Samples. The samples
decide the ability of an exporter. If the samples are of good quality and with reasonable price naturally
the buyers will be forced to place the order. So it is essential that the samples should be innovative
and with optimum quality.
Purpose of Sampling
•To allow the buyer to judge the production capabilities of the manufacturer.
• To provide a means for making revisions in the bulk production process.
• To let the manufacturer estimate the thread and fabric consumption, and develop cost quotations.
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details attached to it,
with the help of a tag. It contains the details of both, what the buyer has demanded and what the
supplier fabric/trim etc they have used.
Style no. / Ref no.
Fabric Color/Print/ Yarn dyed
Fabric Composition
Garment Description
Style no/ Size
Spec sheet/Measurement
BOM(Trim information)

Primary Survey
Sampling is the process by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer
requirement and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. It also contributes in
30
the domain of product development which helps to present the quality and capability of service to the
buyer. This department executes as per the specifications of buyer’s order and ensures any correction
or alteration before starting bulk production as per buyer purchase order. The sampled garments
represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and techniques employed by
the whole organization. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with the
buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric consumption along
with that of thread and embellishment used.
Types of samples used:
Proto Sample: Proto sample is the rough interpretation of the enquiry done to acquaint the tailors
with the style. It is usually done on the substitute fabrics, and using accessories, what is available and
then checked on the dress form. The quality inspectors from the respective buying houses or the
buyer checks the sample, makes the necessary changes pertaining to the fit, the drape, the style details
etc. Once this stage is completed, it’s time to move on to the next stage
1st Fit Sample: the fit of the garment assumes the pivotal importance in this sample. Usually done
on the substitute/actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories. It is sent directly to the buyer for
necessary alterations to be made. Depending upon the changes or the comment of the buyer, the
revised fit samples are made till the final approval is obtained
2nd Fit Sample: If buyer ask for more correction and alteration in the 1st fit sample then this 2nd
fit sample is develop by keeping in my all the needs and requirement of the buyer. It is also develop
using substitute/actual fabrics and substitute trims and accessories.
Pre-Production Sample: It is done on the actual fabric using the actual trims and the fit has to be
perfect. It is simply a prelude to the actual production.
Photo Shoot Sample: In order to promote the new style in the market normally buyer asks for
photo shoot sample. Buyer uses this photo for marketing purpose either on catalogue or various
media like, print, TV or websites to see the response of the consumer.
Size set sample: The main purpose of size set sample is to check the factory's capability to make
the sample in all sizes. 1-2 samples (or quantity specified by buyer) of each size need to send to
buyer.
GPT sample (Garment Performance Test): The main purpose of GPT is to perform the physical
and chemical testing on garment to ensure the performance of the garment. GPT Sample is sent to 3rd
party inspection and results are sent to both factory as well as buyer. The tests done on garments are:
Shrinkage, Color Fastness, Seam performance etc.
TOP (Top of Production) Sample: The top of production is sent to the buyer as soon initial pieces
are come out of sewing line. In TOP sample Buyer tries to evaluate the actual manufacturing of the
style. Buyer check whether bulk production is as per submitted sample or not. Shipment sample .Few
buyers may ask for the shipment samples which factory needs to pull form the actual shipment and
sent to buyer. The main purpose of this sample is to assure buyer about the actual shipment dispatch

31
Secondary Survey
Sample: Means a reference for something in mass volume
Pattern making for sampling
(The first step of garment making)- Translation of a garment styling and measurements on to a paper
which becomes a tool for cutting the fabric which in turn gets a shape of garment sewing to get a
required fit.

Basic requirements for pattern development:

1. Reference sample

1. Complete tech pack consisting details like-

 Spec/measurement chart
 Garment construction details and placements
 Grade rules
 Complete details of garment making process like washing/embroidery/print etc.
 Pattern set should accompany with the spec chart though the same may be field in a particular
style file.

Grading in CAD
Once the sample size/ base is approved then it is graded as per the space and the size range required
and we also need to consider addition of allowance particularly if the fabric has any shrinkage or
elongation and all points mentioned in the above points.

Proto Sample Making

The first step (sample) from a supplier/exporter/vendor to customer/buyer, which establishes the
understanding of the customer requirement basically done to ensure the corrections of styling, fit, and
space are in accordance with the requirement.
Then the same moves on the various number of fits before it gets converted into a pre-production
sample i.e. , a replica of bulk production for the reference of customer to ensure on the right product
from mass production.
When we say various numbers of fits, which is a result of errors done by the supplier or it may be
because the customer wants some changes. Hence it is very important to maintain a database of a
sample at every stage which helps in making the final garment as per the buyer requirement.

Ensuring the fit

Fit of the sample produced is properly approved by the merchandiser. It is in two ways:

32
Test on live model
Test on dress form

Standard operating procedures

Following points are taken care by the pattern masters and his helpers:
Co-relation between sketch and measurement
Construction of each part and the components required
Identify shell and trims with the help of Bill of Materials
Explain the usage of accessories and their function for placement/allowance etc.
Clear understanding of “how to measure manual”
Sewing margins
Shrinkage/elongation like seam/iron depending on the style of fabric used
Other shrinkage/ elongation like seam/ iron depending on the style of fabric used
Checking of patterns for the correction of shapes/ measurements/ margins/ notches with respect to
the sketch/ spec provided before the same is issued to the cut the fabric.
Other useful description of the style/ pattern details to be marked on the pattern like:
1.Buyer, style, type of fit
2.Pattern version number
3.Grain lines
4.Shrinkage elongation details
5.Pattern release date
6.Number of cuts
7.Dart name
8.Total numbering of the patterns e.g. S-1/10
Using metal sheet pattern wherever required e.g. pocket as the same undergoes iron creasing to get
the shape and seem line margin so that the parts/ components does not loose shape/ measurement
Never use damaged/ torn pattern to cut the patterns

Quality parameters in Sampling

Fit of the sample produced
Any inherent fabric defect
An dyeing defect
Stitch quality of the garment (SPI,GAUGE)
Complete construction of the sample
Overall look of the garment
Dummy check

33
Process flow Chart:

Roles and Responsibilities of a merchandiser

1. Getting clarifications about style details from the merchandiser:
It is the first task of any kinds of garment sample department. Here, the responsible person has to
know about the details of sample from the garment merchandiser. In this stage, apparel merchandiser
explains various important matters related with sample garment to the sample department personnel
such as style, size, color, fabrication, washing, embroidery etc.

2. Checking pattern’s work-ability:

After receiving all the information’s of sample garment, here sample department personnel have to
cut the pattern paper according to the buyer’s instruction which he received from the
apparel merchandiser.

GPT(Garment Package Testing)/FPT(Fabric

Package Testing)

Photo Shoot Sample

TOP(Top of Production)

3. Preparation of different samples and getting the buyer’s approval:

Fabric has to cut here according to the definite pattern and sewing the garments by
maintaining buyer’s instruction. Others instruction also maintained here such as wash, embroidery,
print etc. Finally it’s sent to the buyer for approval. In this way, various types of samples such as proto
sample, fit sample, photo shoot sample, salesman sample, size set sample, top sample, shipment
sample etc. are made here.

4. Informing quality related problems, encountered during preparing samples to QC:

It is one of the most important tasks of any sampling department. If found any problems during
making the sample then it should be informed to the quality controller (QC) instantly. After
that, quality controller will take necessary steps to solve those problems.

34
5. Minimizing operations and consumption:
Sampling department has to maintain other tasks of minimizing operations and fabric consumption
which will be maintained during garment production.
Cause of Sample Section Dilemma and its Impact in the Apparel Industry

Cause Problems Impacts Result

Weak Wrong information to Failure of/ Buyer’

File washing/printing/embroid Late in s
Manage ery section regarding wash/ sample Dissati
ment printing/embroidery submission sfactio
standard deadline n

Mistake in garment panel

measurement
Sample
Failure in understanding Rejection
Buyer’
priority of which sample to
s
be completed first.
Dissati
Failure of sfactio
Untimely follow-up of
timely n
samples from the
sample
submission Buyer’
s
washing/printing/embroid Dissati
ery section sfactio
Failure of
sample n
submission
deadline
Buyer’
s
Dissati
sfactio
n

35
Weak Made mistake by mixing-up Sample Unsati
Invento fabric (color /yarn count Rejection / sfied
ry /pattern no.), and trims and submission Buyer
Manage accessories like button (size deadline
ment /color /shape), sewing Failure
thread (color /ticket no.),
etc. of one sample with the
other

Wrong Tagging or Missing Work-

Re-work of
Counter Sample load of
the whole
Sampl
procedure
eS
of Sample
Approval

Dirty Health hazards to workers Worker’s Buyer’

Sample by in-take of dust particles illness s
Section causing respiratory causing Dissati
problems. failure of sfactio
submission n
Workers’ injury due to deadline
Slippery Floor by un-
removed oil drops after De-
Panic
m/c maintenance. motivated
at
worker
Garment piece / cut panel work;
suddenly falls on the dirty i.e.
floor containing oil droplets slow
or other dirty particles. worki
Failure of ng
timely
Buyer’
Machine accidents due to Sample
s
friction Submission
Dissati
sfactio
n
De-
motivated
worker
Pile-
up of
unfini
shed
work

36
 Less- Technical problems like Sample Unsati
skilled mismatching of cut panel, Rejection / sfied
and mismatched check / stripe, Delay in Buyer
Inexperi poor seam assembly, etc. quality
enced sample
Personn submission
el limitation in the
Work-
Supervisory skill of Sample
load of
Manager Delay in
Sampl
quality
e
sample
Sectio
submission
n.

Types of Machines
Single needed lockstitch machine
Baby over lock
Button attached machine
3-thread over lock machine
4-thread over lock machine
5-thread over lock machine
Buttonhole machine
Button attached machine
Bar track machine
Embroidery Machine
Shanking Machine
Machine used for smocking

Pre-production sample
Once the fit is approved the next step is pre-production sample in all actual which will be a sealer for
bulk production.

Size set
These are done basically to ensure on the correctness of the pattern grading as per the buyer spec
with all considerations of shrinkage/ placements and etc.

Sewing the sample

The next step is stitching of the garment. A sample briefing is done to the operator to make sure that
he is clear of the requirement if any doubts it is cleared before the cutting goes on to the machine.
37
Also ensure that the construction of the garment is made keeping the bulk production in mind. If
necessary the buyer is contacted for any changes on constructions with effective explanation of the
practicality of the bulk production.
This is done at a very early stage.

Inputs
Tech pack
Sketch/Sample
Detailed construction sheet
Detailed illustration sheet
Ready marking patterns
Bill of materials/trim card with placement
How to measure manual
Spec chart
Buyer’s comment on previously submitted sample

Records Maintained
The most important activity of the sampling department, which can make a difference to the process
of sampling in the department in terms of efficiency of correctness of garment development, is time
management.
Every style detail is maintained in a separate file and the contents of the file are easily accessible,
entire history of the sample from proto sample stage to pre-production sample stage to pre-
production sample.
Each style is labeled with all the style/buyer detail on it.
All styles of a buyer are kept at one place and once the order is through it is removed to avoid
confusion because of too many files.
A register is maintained to record the dates from the first sample indent to the final indent of a
particular style like:
1.Indent date received
2.Sample submitted
3.Approvals/comments received
4.Indent for received fit and the process should continue
5.Filling of sample details
6.Presentation of fit samples of every stage as it becomes a ready reference for the next stage fit

38
7.Filling a copy of consumption chart of every fit stage given to the merchandiser and are cross
checked when the style moves to the next fit and any increase in consumption, it is brought to notice
of the merchandiser. However it is a responsibility of merchandiser also.
8.Storage of patterns- One more important aspect of sampling department, all the patterns are
numbered and kept in a sequential manner and the same is recorded in a register with a serial
number so that whenever may be after three months also, it becomes easy.

Some general procedures:

Sampling generally takes one week time.
There is a separate cutting done for sampling
Sampling is done completely on the basis of the tech pack received and the sketch of the garment.
Different kind of sampling is done for different buyers.
Letter of credit: it is generally issued by the buyer to buy fabric, trims etc. for sampling before the
actual confirmation of orders.
Cutting approval sent by sampling team with comments and specifications before bulk cutting of the
fabric.
All R&D are done according to the spec sheet.

Designing Department
Designing is simply creating or an innovation of an idea. A development of design requires rigorous
involvement and it requires a systematic process to formulate a design. Designers must be able to
convey their ideas through their designs effectively.
If a designer is creative and is blessed with artistic talent then the outcome will obviously be highly
enhanced. Every designer needs a methodology for approaching problems and each designer or a
group of designers need a specific format that will assist them in making their work simpler and more
effective. Irrespective of the stages in the design process there are certain factors which have to be
dealt with before starting the works. Some of these may be:
Identify the target market - The market that a firm is catering to is segregated on the basis of gender,
age, social and economic segment. Here the market is a group of people or the consumers. Each market
segment is going to have different requirements and expectations from a design and all of these have
to be satisfied by the designer, in order to make it a success.
Maintaining an Identity for the brand - Every company has a specific look and caters to a particular
clientele. The price ranges are also fixed since generally they cater to a specific target market. All this
has to remain more or less constant so that the company has a proper brand identity.
Designing department is also considered as the research and development department of the clothing
factory because this is a department where garment prototypes are developed for selling and
production.

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Range Development Process
While developing a range, a designer must keep certain things in mind in order to carry out the
process successful and in the best interest of the company. Every decision regarding the development
of range should base on the following factors;

Season selected: the season for which a designer has to develop a range. For example, range can be
developed for pre-spring season, spring/ summer, fall/ winter, holiday season etc.

Market: a designer must be clear about the market for which the range has to be made. A market can
have various segments on the basis of gender, age, geographic etc. for example; we had to develop a
collection for modern women of age group 30 to 40.

Brand identity: a designer should know about the brands identity i.e. personality of a brand and its
market.

Company’s ability: the main motive of any export house is to get the maximum orders in order to
generate maximum profits. Therefore, a designer working in an export house should know about the
company’s strengths and constraints. If any decision is made which is beyond the company’s limit then
it can bring loses to the company.

Price category: for every buyer there is a different price category for developing garment samples.
Garments made of a premium brand can be relatively high priced because of different types of
techniques applied in making the garment.
Before we begin with the range development process, we were required to have a mood board ready
of a respective brand, which consists of the visual presentation of the brand’s concept for a particular
season. Mood board explains the color story and the ideas on the basis of which a designer is
supposed to develop a range. Mood board gives an idea of what the collection will look like. A designer
should be creative but he/she must develop a collection, which is inspired by the brand’s mood board
only. This is because every buyer has different expectations and requirements regarding their
collection and a designer must work on to fulfill those.

Steps involved in the process of range development

 Season selection
The design team is currently working on developing new range of high fashion women garments for
spring/ summer season for the year 2019. For a particular season there is a different colour story and
theme. Usually all of the manufacturers of women apparel follow four different seasons i.e. spring,
summer, fall and holiday.

 Trend analysis and fashion forecasting

Trend analysis is basically a study of upcoming trends in fashion. Designers, merchandisers and buyers
must learn to predict trends, which are new directions in fashion. Trend analysis is done a year or two in
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advance. Therefore, designers, merchandisers, buyers and retailers must work together to anticipate
customer’s needs to be the successful fashion forecasters of the future.

Fashion forecasting involves:

Studying market conditions- consumer buying behaviour.

Noting consumer’s lifestyle.
Establishing sales trends.
Evaluating popular designer’s collection.
Surveying fashion catalogues and design services from all over the world.
Observing street fashion; what people are wearing and what celebrities are wearing.
Keeping up with the current events, mood of the public.

For fashion forecasting, designers also refer to WGSN.

Inspiration comes from buyer (known as Boards)

Inspiration comes from buyers in form of mails and photographs
 Design made
 Mood board
Story making or mood board making is followed by fashion forecasting. Here designers consider all
the factors to be taken into account while forecasting for a new product. For example, if we are
working on women apparel then we must add all the accessories that would tune in with the product
forecasted. Based on this, team has to decide the graphics for prints, embroidery, styling etc.

Fabric and trim sourcing

After the mood board is made, next step for a designer is to source fabric and trims according to the
buyer’s requirements and which goes with the story in the mood board.
Developing design sheets
Based on the inspiration from the mood board a designer makes design sheets for the new line of
product. Keeping the theme in the mind, a designer incorporates a pleasing combination of all the
design elements; colour, fabric, line, and shape of each garment. Based on this designer make sketch of
different bodies of garment and silhouettes.
Style no is given in the format – CN-NN-AS-FC-35
CN is Orient’s serial number of their own style
NN stands for designer’s initials
AS is for patter maker’s initials
FC stands for fall collection
And the numeric value denotes the style no.
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CAD Room
After finalizing the design sheets, they must be sent for pattern making. Pattern is computer
generated, using TUKADesign Software. It is then plotted using Plotting Machine and is then cut
manually.
Functions Of Cad Room
CAD department is responsible for the following functions:
Determining cutting average for costing
Making the most efficient cutting marker
Development and alteration of patterns
Development of size set pattern by grading

Plotting
The marker is printed with the help of Gerber plotter and spread on top of the lay. This helps in
recognition of garment parts after cutting.

Fabric Issue from Fabric Store

The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on requisition slip. All fabric is not issued at one go;
instead it is issued as required. The requisition slip contains information regarding style no, colour,
buyer’s name, and quantity to be issued.

Embroidery

 Soft copy of pattern is taken

 Embroidery design is made as per design on the pattern

 (Software used – CorelDraw X6

 File Format - .cdr)

 A printout of embroidery design is taken out

 (Known as embroidery artwork or “khaka”)

 Embroidery technique is fed in the design made using CorelDraw

 (Software used – Wilcom)

 File Format – tajdema.dst)

 The file is fed to computerized embroidery machines using pen drive

 Embroidery is done on fabric

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 It is a manual process for this department.

Basic Work Flow

Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production manager.
Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount of styles, from the
spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following details:

1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other trims averages.
2. Measurement sheet.
3. Design worksheet of the garment. 4. Purchase order.
5. Fabric requisition sheet.
6. CAD mini marker.
7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut.

Cutting Sub Departments

1. Layering and spreading
2. Cutting
3. Bundling and ticketing
4. Fusing area
5. QA department

Ticketing
Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut components are
grouped together as per their sizes and are taken to the checking table. Here the cut components are
inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts of
fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there bolt to bolt variation in color shade.

Fusing:
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from the
bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the components to be
fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept between to paper sheets and the
pack is passed through the fusing machine by means of temperature and pressure fusing takes place
at particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes out at the other end on conveyors and
the pieces are removed and re-bundled.

Parameters affecting the fusing process:

Pressure- Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact between the
interlining and outer cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to the adhesive. Pressure should
be adequate for the correct penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric. Temperature-It is another
important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin used in fusing process. It should be high
enough to change the dry thermoplastic resin into a molten state so that it can flow properly between
the fabrics. If temperature is low it gives proper flow of resin and if it is high it gives too much flow of
resin and the resin will come out. Time- Time should also be adequate along with temperature and
pressure. It should be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric
can takes place.

Checking:
The ticked panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every individual piece for any
objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate size, incorrect shape
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and any fabric defects holes, cut, shade variation, etc. that are not within the acceptable quality
parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total
quality cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and equal number of fresh panels
is separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number as rejected ones. Other
mendable faults are marked with an alteration sticker and passed on. Those are spotted during
garment finishing or washing.

Bundling:
The checked components of one style and one size are now clubbed ad bundled using ties. The size of
bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each bundle will contain pieces of
same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks made beneath the cutting table. The
cutting department issues the amount required by the production department as and when asked for.
The component may be issued in instalment or all at once as the need of the production department
against the job order.

Sewing department:
Sewing is an important department in garments manufacturing industry. All the parts of a garment
are joined here by making stitch with the help of needle and thread. Where, sewing process flow chart
helps to make a complete garment easily. By maintaining sewing process flow chart, an order can be
completed in timely.

Process Flow Chart for Garments Sewing Department:

 Product analysis
 Set up target for production
 Set up machine layout on the basis of target
 Set up operator layout on the basis of target
 QC check of product
 Line balancing
 Line setup Distribution all the processes
 Cutting parts received section
 Cutting parts distribution to the operator and helper
 Complete parts making individually Online QC check Online quality audit
 Counting output and checking with the target
 Final quality check (for each Garment)

Embroidery department:

Embroidery is a technique of decorating fabric or other materials with needle and thread or yarn. In
garments industry it is a common task for decorating fabric. Normally embroidery is done as buyer
requirements. Embroidery is done with hand. But in case of bulk production and for complicated
design computerized embroidery machine is used.

Flow Chart of Embroidery in Garments Industry

 Art work from buyer

 Input to ES-65(Software)
 Design analysis

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  Send to buyer
 Recommendation & correction from buyer
 Sample prepare
 Send to buyer
 If approved then for bulk production

Printing department:

Textile printing is the process of applying color to fabric in definite patterns or designs. In properly
printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and friction. Textile printing
is related to dyeing but in dyeing properly the whole fabric is uniformly covered with one colour,
whereas in printing one or more colours are applied to it in certain parts only, and in sharply defined
patterns.

Production floor:
Production floor consist stitching department. In stitching department, there are number of lines and
each line is headed by the quality controller. Further there is a senior quality specialist to oversee
every three lines.
Washing department:

Orient consists if following equipment in the wash house:

 Water extractor, washing machine, tumble dryers are from the brand Fabcare.
 Dry cleaning machines are imported from Suprema, Italy.
 Reverse osmosis plant generates 20,000 litres of clean, odourless, chemical, contaminated free water
per day for their washing plant.
 All the waste wash water is treated within the factory premises at our effluent treatment plant to
remove residuals chemicals and prevent pollution of the ground water.

Iron house, final control and packaging:

It is the final step of production. Orient uses steam press to iron the garments. Final inspection
includes four steps:

 Basic check of the final garment defect such as spots, stains, open stitches, damages holes. Another
check is independently carried out to ascertain that all manufacturing are truly been eliminated.
 Measurement specification is verified and then the final check is done. After packaging the units will
pass through our cintex needle detector and then finally into shipping cartons.

Platform inspection:
Each and every dispatch from the factory is to be subjected to an AQL inspection. It is done after
the goods are packed and the cartons are sealed in the area removed from production unit.
Sometimes, shipments are opened and sent for re-checking.
Return percentage of Magnolia Martinique is less than 1% of the shipped goods.

Sampling
Sampling process is the process in which the garment is made. It involves stitching process, overlock of
edges, buttonholing and button attaching.

 Stitching

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 Buttonhole is made

 Buttons are attached

 Washing is done

 Loose threads are cut manually

 Garment is sent for Pressing

 Labels are attached

Final inspection
Garment is inspected properly before presenting it to the buyers. Loose threads, spots, stitches are all
examined properly

Marker Making
Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available width of the fabric so has
to utilize minimum fabric and reduce fabric wastage. All the required information is fed into the
system by the digitizing. The patterns are ready for marker making. Individual pieces can be moved
around the screen using a mouse, to produce an optimized layout the system is programmed to
calculate material utilization i.e. efficiency and cutting waste. Before making the final marker, a
combination of pattern arrangements, in a given width, are made so as to achieve maximum efficiency.

Cost Sheet
A cost sheet is prepared. The costing sheet is the addition of all the costs involved in the making of the
garment and then it is quoted to the buyers. It contains per piece and the total cost (of all the pieces).
It includes the details like, cost of fabric, trims, washing, embroidery, sampling, testing, freight, duty,
insurance etc.
Basic costs while calculating costing are -

Factory Cost - Factory cost includes cutting cost, making cost, packing cost. It depends basically on
the style. The complex the style, higher the rate proportions.

Trims Cost - Trims can be both local and imported. Imported trims can be duty free or otherwise. It
includes label cost, accessories cost, button cost, Zipper cost, washing cost etc. Trims cost is taken
including wastage.

Yield Cost - It is an estimation of average consumption of fabric. It is decided by preparing a mini

marker which includes wastage of fabric due to laying, cutting, fabric defect, end cutting loss, marker
loss. Average of 10% extra margin is taken.

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Cost of Embroidery - Cost of embroidery includes the machine depreciation cost, and it is
proportional to the number of stitches used.

Presentation
After the garments have been made they are arranged according to a story in a showroom in order to
present it to the buyer.
These were the steps are just an overview of the range development process. In the meeting,
designers, merchandisers, buyers and retailers discuss about the new collection made by the
manufacturer and they give a review on that. The buyers make selections out of that collection also
suggest the changes to be made in the regarding the designing, fit or the look of the garment. This
information is important for the future collection and for the product development process that
continues.

Accessory and Trim Store

INTRODUCTION
The accessories department controls the accessories sourcing from various suppliers and supply of
accessories to the various departments at specified time as per requirement. The department does the
function of buying of accessories centrally. After the accessories is delivered by the supplier the
accessories department performs the function of inspection. And after due inspection the trims are
stored in the store and then are issued to the particular departments on requisition. The obvious duty
of the Trims and Accessories Store Department is to keep the stock of different accessories and trims,
Machine Accessories, Consumables and Packing materials.

• Trims And Accessories like – Threads, Labels, Hand Tags, Buttons, etc;

• Machine Accessories like – Needles, Presser Foot Etc;

• Consumables like – Oil, Grease, Chalks, etc.

• Packing Materials like – Poly Bags, Cartons, Hand Bags etc Spares of the Machines;
They also keep the stock of folders and attachments.

Process Flow:
 Merchandiser gives purchase requisition.
 Costing of accessories based on how much material was offered and how much is left.
 Stores make PO.
 Make goods receive note after checking the items.
 2 set of approval cards are made, 1 for merchant and 1 for store.
 Market racks A B C…style is allocated to different racks (A1-A6).
 If rejection is >3%, debit whole lot and fresh material is ordered.
 After shipment a report is made on how much material is left.
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Reorder level is checked based upon the speed of consumption of the accessories and trims.

Dead stock registers are made for further requirements. The dead stock is used for sampling and if a large
amount of material is present then can be used for similar order.

Findings

Internship at Orient Craft Ltd. Gurgaon has changed my life on a professional level in that it allowed us to
acquire practical knowledge about the apparel industry, learn new skills and enhance our personal skills. It was
a great experience and rendered us with a lot of opportunities to learn about manufacturing of garments. Till
now we have been learning theoretically but during the internship we actually came across the working of
apparel manufacturing unit.

I, firstly worked under the Merchandising team of different buyers. They also assisted in organizing and
coordinating activities of the merchandising department learning the process flow of the department and
activities involved. We were involved in all the stages of product development in sampling to the various
stages of manufacturing of the product. We learnt the various department’s working, their hierarchy, their
process flow, terminologies being used.

The annexures also benefitted to understand the plant layout, order tracking, material flow. Thus, we got a fair
idea about a garment production unit. The time spent there, as an intern was a memorable one for me, as it
was rich in experience sharing and helped me discover my potential. We had so many rich experiences and
opportunities that we personally believe will forever shape and influence our professional life while
fostering personal growth and development.

Experience
Working as a production merchandiser intern in Orient Crafts Ltd. had been a great
learning for my career. It provided me a platform to enhance my skills and explore the garment
industry.
Working in export house made me realize that manufacturing a garment is not an easy task. It
requires a lot of effort, dedication, hard work and experience in the industry. This internship brought
out my strength and also the areas I needed to make up.
The primary objective of my internship was to gather a real life work experience and put the
theoretical knowledge in practice. The 8 weeks of internship was highly educative one. I went to
various departments of the export house and gathered knowledge and experience as much as I could. I
came to know about each steps involved in manufacturing a garment and shipping the garment to the
required place.
I was working under a senior production merchandiser who was handling well-known brand
Nordstorm.
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His guidance led me to know more about the brand and the technical issues involved with them.
During my training, I thoroughly enjoyed the challenges that came along every single day. Lastly I
would like to say that, I had an amazing experience working in export house with a bunch of learning
related to export house.

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