ris ci ll a I n i ti a l O utfit.

P
·=
.. 142 Em·
. kage contau••s .
.
Th IS "ac er Imtt als. m
Patterns
Y

182 brotd.eTY TransfOld E nglish and

cludmg S ·pt
ap
J q�
e�'um in eight stz
:om S(s inch uP to 4
es.

40 Dainty W
rang�ng f reath
inch�; a!so . es suitable for en·
Destgn s t n stz . . These
nous initwls
dosin g the va ect in siz e
and
ns are co t;
patt�r our Hand·
for m P•!�g
t
sta
style �entrePieces,
kerchiefs, Na �:h Cloths. Tow·
Tray Cfo ths • Scarfs,
I'"
tyS, Burea" Wear·
els, Pill ow 5 sorts of
Price, 35 cen
nd all
Bedspreads a ts
k eom
panY
l.
ing Appare
The prisci!lD,AveNeBeoato
dltwO�aall achu••U•
410 Atlantic
••
ft..

·-

What you can do with

YOUR INITIAL
O the person of refinement, there is nothing quite so satisfying as a dainty initial
T neatly embroidered on crispy white linen. One immediately thinks of an initial
for use only on Table Linens and Towels, but the initial to-day is quite the fashion
for use on Bedroom Linens, Sheets, Pillow Cases, Day Slips, Bedspreads, Bureau
Scarfs, Pincushions, Doilies, Underwear,Pajamas, Nightgowns,
What You Get Sport Shirts, Neckwear, Automobile Slip Covers, and we
54 graceful Script letters have even seen Curtains and Overhangings neatly initialed.
in eight different sizes

cAb
The Priscilla Initial Outfit is a treasure box to the woman Patterns in the Pris·
cilia Initial Outfit come
who wants her belongings marked in this distinctive man· on sheets about four

49 dignified Old
inches square. put up
ner. Each Outfit contains three different style letters­ i n a daintysnow·white
English letters
in eight different sizes
Script, Old English, Japanese-and each style letter comes case and sent to you in

� !:� O:���"fnllfai;
s
in eight different sizes. This big Outfit gives you initials o

Jt
select the pattern de­
for every purpose. There are tin�· letters for handker­ sired, Jay it face down
on the cloth, pass a hot
chiefs; larger ones for underwear; others just the right
39
iron over the back, and
novel Japanese letters size for napkins, tray cloths, bureau scarfs, pillow slips, presto! your stampin�r
18 done.
in eight different sizes towels; and big four-inch letters for luncheon cloths and Included with the pat­
terns is an illustrated

M
bedspreads. i n s t r u ct i o n sheet,

Altogether you receive 142 patterns of your initial letter.

showing how to em­
broidPr initials Price
.

include 40 dainty wreath designs, just the

ot the Priscilla Initial
In addilion we
350
Outfit only
and 40 choice wreath designs
right sizes and styles for enclosing the initials-182 pat­
just the proper sizes for poa.t­
enclosmg the initials patd
terns in all. B• sure to ataU l.ttn
wanted

THE PRISCILLA COMPANY

470 ATLANTIC AVE., BOSTON, MASS.
 1!Cbt

,Jriscilla �mocking jiook

A COLLECTION OF BEAUTIFUL
AND USEFUL PATTERNS

WITH

1!\irection� for mtorking

BY

LOUISE FLYNN
AND OTHERS

Revised 1925

PRICE, 35 CENTS

PUBLISHED BY

m4t �riscilla �ublisbing C!ompanp

, 470 ATLANTIC AVENUE, BOSTON, MASS.

Copyright, 1925, by The Priscilla Publiahing Company

Trade Mark Reg. U.S. Patent Office. All rights reserved.
Copyright in Great Britain and the Colonies
A CHARMING DRESS FOR A LITTLE GIRL, WHICH SHows THE UsE OF SMOCKING IN ITs
SIMPLEST FORM. SEE FJ.G. 38, PAGE 19

2
 THE ART OF SMOCKING
MOCKING is not new, but is a form of needle­
S work which is always in demand because of its
' simplicity and beauty, and the opportunity it affords
for originality of design. It is, in a few words, the
embroidery of simple stitches upon the folds or plaits
of a shirred foundation, and may be used on any gar­
ment where fullness is desirable. It is charming for
children's dresses, coats,' bonnets, and muffs, as well
as women's waists, dresses, smocks, and other articles
of wearing apparel. The garments and simple de­
signs shown in this book should arouse an added in­
terest in this original, almost freehand work, in
which de-signs may be created as the work progresses.
Materials.-Th e materials which may be used are
most varied, including linens, crepes, all silks not too
thin, striped and checked dimities, lawns, ginghams, and FIG. I. GATHERING THREADS IN PROCESS ON A CHECKED
similar goods, as well as velvet, chiffon, lace, albatross, MATERIAL. See page 3
cashmere, and other woolen fabrics of like character.
On silk or woolen materials, silk threads should al­ played at different times by different workers in ar­
ways be used for smocking, and on cotton fabrics, ranging a guide for the placement of these gathering
embroidery cotton either fine or coarse, depending threads, the object being to space the threads at even
upon whether a fine or coarse effect is desired. Two distances apart and to place the gathering stitches in
threads of stranded cot­ each row directly under
ton are perhaps the best those in the one preced­
for work upon children's ing, taking up the same
frocks and ladies' blouses amount of material
when delicate shading and
m
each stitch.
elaborate stitchery are to
be accomplished. For Checked and Striped
more simple work in one i erhaps the
Mater als.- P
color on gingham or crepe, simplest way of arriving
a heavier embroidery cot­ at this result and one ideal
ton may be used. for the beginner in smock­
ing is the use of checked
Preparation of Mate­ and striped materials, as
rial. As has already in Figs. I, 2, and 3 on this
been stated, smocking j,g page.
-

embroidery upon the folds

or plaits of a shirred Figure 1 shows per­
foundation material, and FIG. 2. GATHERING THREADS IN PROCESS ON A STRIPED fectly the method for pre­
it is absolutely essential MATERIAL WITH LINES MARKED BY MACHINE paring a piece of checked
that this foundation be STITCHING. See page 3 dimity for s m o c k i n g
carefully prepared. In stitches. In this case the
fact the most important thing in regard to smocking first and third lines are taken up for shirring, and two
is the evenness of the gathering. This cannot be too checks are omitted. This distance between stitches
strongly impressed, as the whole beauty of the work would make coarse work, about four or four and one­
depends upon it. Various methods have been em- half tirlles for fullness when finished, depending on the
size of your check.
Figure 2 shows the use of a material with a stripe,
like striped dimity, that can be used for lffi1gth of
stitch. Here we first show lines stitched by using the
sewing-machine, the width between the lines being
regulated by the presser foot. This little device of
stitching the lines is of the greatest value in using
striped materials, especially the striped dimity, where
the cords space the stitches. The stitching serves
only as a guide for the gathering threads, and is
clipped bit by bit and removed as the gathering
threads are run in. If the cords are too far apart, one
stitch between can be used; if the cords are too close
FIG. 3· A FINE CHECKED MATERIAL MAY ALSO BE
USED. See page 4 together, one can be omitted. Thus it is readily seen

3
 either fine work and spaces. The lines are to work upon and the
or the reverse is spaces are the size of the stitch, the presser foot be­
easily attainable ing the guide between the lines. (See Fig. 5.) When
and can be cor­ the rows of stitching are complete, the threads are
rectly prepared. clipped about every two inches and removed a few
at a time in a manner not to obliterate the impres­
Figure 3. ­ sion made by the machine-needle. These marks or
Here again is holes are used to determine the length of the shir­
shown a ring stitch, as you shir in the holes the machine­
checked mate­ needle has made. If very fine work is desired, adjust
rial fine enough the machine to eight stitches to the inch. This gives
for every other you a fullness of three· times and is suitable for fine
c h e c k to be material. For heavier material adjust the machine to
omitted in the six stitches to the inch. This gives about four times
s h i r r i n g, as the fullness. Smocking should rarely be fuller than
shown, and the this and is seldom used with less fullness than twice
same. distance and one-half, which is very fine work. In using the
left between the stitched lines, the presser foot gives you the width,
rows of shir­ the size of the stitch gives you the length of your
ring, making a stitch for smocking.
square. After
these samples Table for Fullness. - 4 times the material for
FIG. 4. CHECKED MATERIAL AS IN FIG. h a v e been fullness-six machine stitches to the inch.
WITH GATHERI NG THREADS. shirred, t h e
See page 4
I,
threads drawn
up moderately
snug and securely tied in pairs, the pieces are ready
for the smocking stitches.
Each line of gathering must have a separate thread,
and each thread should be started at the right-hand
side with a double stitch to hold the knot so that it
will not slip through when the thread is drawn up.
In this illustration a coarse cotton has been used for
gathering in order to show clearly, but a stout sew­
ing cotton is all that is necessary. FIG. 5. LINES AND SPACES MARKED BY SEWING
MACHINE. FIRST SHJRRING THREAD BEING
Figure 4.- This illustration shows F ig. with the RuN. See page
4
gathering threads drawn up. It is the wrong side of
I

the work. The right side, upon which the smocking 3 times the fullness-eight machine stitches to the
stitches are worked, presents a succession of folds. inch.
(See Fig. 9. ) zY, times the fullness-ten machine stitches to the
inch.
The Sewing-Machine Method.-As before stated,
it is of the greatest importance in smocking that the Figure 5 shows the lines of machine-stitching
work is perfectly prepared, as the entire beauty of with first shirring thread in process. A study of the
the work would be marred by imperfect lines in the principle involved discloses the various possibilities
shirring. To attain this perfection on plain material the method opens up for the work. With the excep­
the sewing-machine may be used for marking lines tion of some honeycomb designs and the foregoing
elemental studies in checks, all of the work shown

FIG. 6. MATERIAL MARKED WITH TRANSFER DoTs. See

page 5 FIG. 7. METHOD OF MARKING
See page 5
BY RULED LETTER PAPER.

4
in this book was done using this simple method of
the stitched lines. Indeed the writer has yet to use
any other method than this. On your sewing­
t l ·,
. \\ H .

machine adjust the length of stitch according to the

requirements of the work, either long for coarse or Itt J t ftH �M �Uttl��;-ilt:tJfH t Ht t
short for fine work. Let the presser foot guide the
spaces, and you can mark up your material correctly
and quickly.
� f U t �·Uf �\lt t U fH ��·H"�Hl·H H \J\.
Using this method is the only possible way to smock
on curves correctly. (See Fig. 33 on pages I6 and \ \\.fHt.t41fttUl t H'l' rftllfH ttH'
17.) A perfect circle ten inches in diameter was used
for the yoke shown. The entire piece of work was \Iff H . fld' v I 1 i I
stitched row after row, using the presser foot of the .
. See page 5
OuTLINE STITCH .
machine to guide the distance between the lines. One
can readily grasp the principle of evenness of smock­ ing the perpendicular lines down from the horizontal
ing, and unless the machine used is at fault, the work lines from line to line. For a small piece of work
must be correct. Crease a line or mark with a thread this is practical and is at every woman's command.
just where the first stitch begins for each succeed­ Enough preparation for a child's dress can be done
ing row of stitching. correctly in a few minutes' time without the use of
a sewing-machine or any outside assistance such as
transfers.
Smocking Stitches

Figure 8. Outline Stitch. - This stitch is most

simple. It is in fact the well-known embroidery
stitch worked from left to right en the plaits of the
shirred material, the gathering thread acting as a
guide to keep the work straight. It is used in start­
ing most pieces of smocking.
Start your thread on the second plait at the gather­
ing thread on the wrong side of the material, bring­
ing the needle up in the first plait on the right side
of the material. Take one stitch from left to right
in the top of each plait, keeping the thread below
the needle, and each stitch directly over the gather­
ing thread. Fasten off thread at end of each row.
This illustration shows four rows of outline stitch
worked on material dotted and shirred as in Fig. 6.
Figure g. Outline Stitch Variations.- Here we
FIG. g. OuTLINE STITCH IN PRoCEss, AND SoME have plain material with rows of smocking worked
VARIATIONS. See page5 in various examples of the outline stitch. The prepa­
ration for the work was the stitched lines described
Figure 6. Shirring by Means of Dots. - This il­ in Fig. 5, the goods shirred, threads secured, and the
lustration shows an example of the dotted lines as material gently pulled into position as seen. Then
used in the preparation of material for smocking. on the first row of shirring was worked one row of
This dotting can be accomplished with the transfer outline stitch across the line as shown. The second
patterns which are prepared for the purpose; or by row was done in the same manner and third is in
the method described and illustrated in Fig. 7. It process, position of the needle showing exactly how
is useful for velvet, as tbe sewing-machine injures the stitch is taken. The fourth row shows two rows
or marks the pile of the velvet. The method is good of outline worked close together; the first worked on
to use also for a fabric like chiffon, which does not the line as previously; the second row below the first
stitch well unless a paper is placed below it, as one and close to it. The fifth row shows four rows in out-
works on lace. Mark the dots on the wrong side
of the material, and in shirring take up the dots the
same way as the cords of the checked dimity.
(See Fig. and pattern of dots on page 32.)
I

Figure 7·- Another method of marking material

with dots is accomplished with two sheets of ruled
letter paper and impression paper. Place the mate­
rial to be dotted over the impression paper and the
lined paper above this, one sheet with the lines per­
pendicular and one sheet with the lines horizontal.
Now with a pencil, or other not too sharp point,
dot out your dotted lines or points as you wish, mov- FrG. Io. DouBLE OuTLINE STITCH. See page 6
5
 three lines of double cable, if worked in colors, are
sufficient decoration for a child's play dress of blue
chambray or natural-color linen. On blue the colors
could be Turkey-red first row; a blue different from
the dress, second row; and one shade of orange. On
natural-color linen dark brown, orange, and black
with a touch of green would be most effective. Thus,
at an expense of a few cents, an otherwise plain
unattractive play frock is made. a thing of beauty and
a joy to the small wearer.

Figure 13. Single" and Double Wave Stitch. -

FIG. II. SINGLE CABLE STITCH . See page 6 The wave proper consists of four stitches worked
gradually up and four stitches worked gradually
line and forms a band. When using shades of one down again in the outline stitch, and is worked from
color this simple border becomes quite elaborate and
can be worked thus: The first row with the thread
kept below the needle; the second row with the thread
kept above the needle; the third row, as the first
row, with the thread kept below the needle; the
fourth row with the thread above the needle.

Figure 10. Double Outline Stitch.- The braided

effect shown by this sample is secured by working
two rows of outline stitch closely together over each
gathering thread; in one row ·the thread being held
above the needle, and in the other below the needle.

Figure II. Single Cable Stitch.- This stitch is

worked from left to right and is very much like the .
FIG. I2. DoUBLE CABLE STITCH . See page 6
outline stitch. You start your thread at the gather­
ing thread on the wrong side of the material, secur­ left to right. Start your thread on the second plait
ing your knot in the second plait, and bringing the on the right side of material as in outline, and work
needle up in the first plait on the right side of the to the line above, using one, two, three stitches, one in
material as in outline stitch. Take one stitch in every each plait with the thread below the needle going
plait, keeping the thread above the needle in the first up. Now with the thread above the needle take one
stitch and below the needle in the next stitch, then stitch on the line next to the third stitch up with
above the needle again, and so on to the end of the thread above the needle and work to the line be­
.
the line, keeping each stitch exactly on top o f low, using three stitches gradually. Then with the
the gathering t h r e a d. thread below the needle
take one stitch next to the
Figure 12, Double last stitch on the line
Cable Stitch. - T h i s and work again to the line
stitch is in order at this above, using three stitches
time, but the beginner is and repeat. If your space
advised to leave it until permits you can use four
she has acquired some o f stitches in place of three,
the other stitches, a s it and sometimes five or six
may be somewhat con­ stitches, using two lines.
fusing. The double cable This depends on the pleas­
stitch is simply two rows ure of the worker and
of single cable worked the result to be attained.
closely together, the first Two or more rows of
slightly above the gather­ wave s t i t c h m a y b e
ing thread and the sec­ worked one above the
ond slightly below. Work other as in the illustra­
the first row as previously tion.
described (Fig. II, Single
Cable), and in the sec­ Figure 14.-Double cable
ond row reverse the or­ stitch repeated in many
der of the thread above rows is extremely effective,
or below the needle. As especially when the work
the first row begins with is done in shades of one
the thread above the color. Double C a b 1 e
needle, the second should when used in this manner
begin with the thread be­ FIG. IJ. SINGLE AND DouBLE WAVE STITCH. See is most exacting, and no
low the needle. These page 6 mistakes can possibly be
6
 permitted, as one false stitch throws all into confu­
sion. This pattern is particularly good for a boy's
frock. The top and bottom rows may be black and
those between in color.

A Double Wave or Diamond Wave is worked in

the same manne,r as the single wave, working the sec-

FrG. 14. A SECOND ExAMPLE OF DouBLE CABLE STITCH.

See page 6

ond row of wave in the opposite direction from the

first rows, forming a diamond pattern as shown at
top and bottom of Fig. I3.
This pattern used on a girl's simple play or school
frock would be charmingly distinctive if the mate­
rial was in pink and white stripe, either lawn, dimity
or madras, the stripes about one-eighth of an inch
wide. After stitching the lines on your sewing­
machine, gather for the work, taking up the white
lines and putting the pink lines in the background.
This gives a white space for smocking, which can be
done to advantage, using four shades of pink cotton,
size s. Stitch about twelve rows for this pattern. On
the third row from the top line the double wave or
diamond shown in the design is worked. This de­
sign is good and more important-looking if four
stitches are used up and four down for the diamond.

FIG. IS. DIAMOND STITcH CoM BINED wiTH Si NGLE AND

DouBLE OuTLINE, FrGs. 8 AND ro. See page 8

Practice a. little and determine which way you like

the best. The second row of the diamond is com­
menced on the fourth line and worked up to meet
the intersection of the diamond on the line above,
forming a complete diamond. By close study of the
illustration it is made very clear how this is worked.
On the sixth line the single wave is commenced.
Securing the thread and starting as for the diamond
stitch, work "from the sixth line to the fifth line the
same number of stitches as in the diamond above,
making the same turn on the line, two stitches, one
up and one down, as in the diamond. Work as
many rows as you are using shades of a color, and

I
finish with the same diamond used to begin the
design.
,.
The work on the sleeve could be simplified using
one row of diamond, two rows of wave, one row o f
diamond; o r simply one row of diamond i s good
here, with a row of outline stitch each side of it.
It is safe to allow three and one-half times for
fuJlness used to smock in this manner.
FrG. r6. FEATHERED DIAMOND STITCH WITH DouBLE
Rows OF OuTLINE ToP AND BonoM. See page 8 A Curved Wave (see Fig. 19) is worked from line
7
of any gathering thread to the line above, using four Jar uses. After marking the shirring lines on the
stitches, as in single wave; then three stitches on the sewing-machine shir the material, using the holes
line; then four stitches down to the line below; then made by the machine-needle in stitching the rows.
three stitches on this line; then four stitches up. to the A fullness of three times is desirable. On the first
line above; and· as before, gathering thread work
three stitches on the line. outline stitch, then one row
It is important to remem­ of one-half diamond; then
ber that in going up in all outline; then comes one­
forms of the wave the half diamond on the
thread is kept above the fourth row; then outline
needle. Very little prac­ again on the fifth row,
tice, and one acquires thus finishing the top of
this quite readily. The the pattern. On the
necessity of some practice seventh shirring thread
is urged upon the learner, begin the diamond stitch
before attempting gar­ that forms the centre
ments. The curved wave band, using three stitches
is usually used double, up and three stitches down
the second row the same the one - half diamond.
as the first, one line Work six rows, making
apart, as in Fig. I9. five complete diamonds.
If you wish a wider band
Figure rs. Diamond do more rows, of course.
Stitch. The stitch is Shades of blue may be
worked from left to right. used throughout. The
-

Start your thread as double outline is used, as

in previous directions. shown in the bottom row,
Take one stitch in the with diamond stitch be­
first plait over the gather­ tween. A wise selection
ing thread, with your of materials and perfect
thread below the nee­ workmanship makes these
dle, then one stitch in simple patterns charming.
the second plait beside The lower band consist­
the first stitch, . with the ing of one row of diamond
thread above the needle. stitch with outline on
This is the same as the either side is all that is
cable stitch. Next pass needed for the sleeves.
down to half-way between
the first and second gath­ Figure r6. Feathered
ering thread, and take one Diamond.-We here have
stitch in the third plait one of the most desirable
with the thread above the stitches used in smocking,
needle, and another stitch the feathered diamond. In
in the fourth plait beside appearance it is most elab­
the third with the thread orate, and it lends itself
below the needle. Then especially to shaded work
pass up again to the first and where a solid elabo­
gathering thread and take rate effect is desired. All
one stitch in the fifth plait workers are enthusiastic
with the thread below the over the possibilities of the
needle, and the stitch be­ feathered diamond, and in
side it in the sixth plait the working it grows rap­
with the thread above the idly, presenting few diffi­
needle; and continue to the culties. It is really one of
end of the line. Be care­ the easiest stitches to ac­
ful to take one stitch in quire and one of the most
every plait. This gives agreeable to make. This
one-half of the diamond. sample was worked i n
The other half of the dia­ navy blue cotton No. 5 on
mond is formed by start­ FIG. I7. Sli\'GLE A:"'D DouBLE VA:"'DYKE STITCH CoM­ white linen; eighteen rows
ing on the second gather­ BINED WITH OUTLINE (FIG. 8), CABLE (FIG. II), of stitching were required
ing thread and working AKD WAVE (FIG. I3) for the gathering threads.
up to hal £-way between the The first and third rows of
second and first gathering thread, so that the stitches smocking are in outline with feathered· diamond com­
meet the first half of the diamond. menced on the fourth row of shirring at the right. It
This simple pattern looks well when worked on the is to be remembered that the feathered diamond is
cotton crepes so much in favor for lingerie and simi- one of four stitches that is worked from right to left.
8
You begin by securing the thread on the second plait
as usual, that the knot does not get loose and spoil
the work. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the
right side of the goods on the first gathering thread.
Now take the first and second plaits together, keep­
ing the thread before the needle as in ordinary feather
stitch; then one-half way between the first and sec­
-
ond gathering thread take the second and third plaits
together; then just escaping the second gathering
thread take the third and fourth plaits together; the
thread as previously used before the needle. Then
up to one-half way between the first and second
gathering thread take the fourth and fifth plaits to­
gether; then on the first gathering thread take the
11fth and sixth plaits together; then down half-way be­
tween the first and second gathering thread take the
sixth and seventh plaits together; and continue in this
manner to the end of the line. This is one-half of a
feathered diamond. The second row is worked simi­
larly, starting on the third gathering thread and work­
ing to meet the first half diamond on the second gath­
ering thread. Work until you have eight rows of
diamonds. Finish as in the beginning with two rows
in outline.

Figure 17. Vandyke Stitch. - This stitch is of

unusual beauty and importance and is one o f the few
stitches worked from right to left. Start your thread

FIG. Ig. THE CuRVED WAVE IS HERE SHowN, AND

ANOTHER VARIATION OF THE DIAMOND POINT.
See page I2

on the second plait on the right-hand side of the

material in the usual manner on the first gathering
thread. Bring the needle up on the first plait on the
right side of the material. Pass the needle through
the first two plaits together, and take one over.
Then come down to the second gathering thread and
take the second and third plait together with an­
other stitch over. Then up again taking the third
and fourth plait together with another stitch over;
and so on to the end of the line. If the space be­
tween the lines is wide enough, as when the shirring
is done by the transfer dot method, you can start
half-way between the two gathering threads and work
down or up to the lines. A space of half the distance
between two gathering threads should always be left
after every line of this stitch when worked single.

The D ouble Vandyke Stitch is simply two

rows o f single Vandyke stitch. Start your thread
on the third gathering thread, working up to the
second gathering thread; then down to the third
gathering thread, according to the previous directions
given for the single Vandyke.
The Vandyke and the double Vandyke are used
to advantage in points where either stitch has been
FIG. I8. PoiNT WoRKED IN DIAMOND STITCH oN used in connection with the pattern above the point
CHECKED DIMITY. See page II ( See Figs. 26 and 28). The single Vandyke is at its
9
 mond wave and buttonhole stitch. The piece is worked
on madras and stitched lines and spaces were used for
preparation. Sixteen lines were stitched, using seven
stitches to the inch. Work was drawn up, pulled
into place, and smocking commenced on the first line
in single outline; on the second line, single buttonhole
stitch; on the third line, single cable stitch ; on the
fourth line, diamond stitch, using two stitches down
to the fifth line and up to the fourth line, down to
the fi fth line and so on across the work. On the
sixth line diamond stitch is worked up to the fi fth
line, down to the sixth line, up to the fi fth line, form­
ing a full diamond. Three more rows of diamond
stitch are worked in the same manner, forming a band
in diamond. On the ninth line is worked a row of
single cable. The double diamond wave consists o f
one row o f diamond wave outlined top and bottom
by a row of stitches twice the number used for the
small diamond, joining the small diamond on every
second point as shown. It is best to work the s mall
diamond first, leaving spaces above and below for
the large diamond, or upper and lower lines shown.
Note the illustration carefully. Work from the thir­
teenth line to the twelfth, using three stitches, down
to the thirteenth, and so on across. For the outer row
of wave commence on the twelfth line and work to
the second line above (tenth) and down again in same
manner, keeping the points directly in line with those
of the small diamond wave and meeting it at every
other point. This gives one-half of a double dia­
mond pattern. The second half of the double dia­
mond is worked the same as the first half, except
FIG. 20. A Goon SMOCKING PATTERN, S HOWI N G Two that it is reversed. The buttonhole stitch on the
1'\Ew FEATURES, DoUBLE DIAMOND WAVE AND second line is the same as used in embroidery._ Work
BUTTONHOLE STITCH from right to left and take one plait for each stitch
keeping the thread before the needle.
best when in a point. One-half a line or space is kept _
open between rows of single Vandyke, as shown. The Figure 21. This pattern requires seven lines of
double Vandyke is used to good advantage to finish shirring. On the first line work a row of single cable
a pattern, giving a fringe-like effect; it can be used stitches. On the second line the double wave or dia­
where the Vandyke has been used in the pattern above mond stitch is commenced. Bring the needle up on
it. Be careful to separate different stitches or pattern s the first plait,
,by a row o f outline o r cable stitch. take a stitch
There are only four stitches used in smocking that ( with t h r e a d
are worked from right to left-: the Feathered Diamond; above needle)
the Vandyke; the little embroidered dot frequently on second plait
worked between "lines ; also the Honeycomb stitch. between second
The illustration ( Fig. 17) begins with a row of and third lines,
single cable, which is really outline stitch with the take third plait
thread reversed every other stitch. First the thread ( thread below
is below the needle; then above the needle; then below n e e d I e) be­
the needle; then above the needle. This row of single tween second
cable is followed by a row in single outline. The and third lines,
useful and attractive band separating the single take f o u r t h
Vandyke from the double Vandyke is placed between pI a i t (thread
two rows of single outline, and is composed of stitches below needle)
in double cable; then a full diamond worked, using on secon d line,
three stitches up and three stitches down. Then two take fi fth plait
double cable stitches followed by the diamond stitch, (thread above
and these stitches are alternated across the line. Noth­ ne e d l e) on
ing is better than this simple line of stitches where an second line, re­
inconspicuous separating line is desired. This illus­ peat. Start the
tration was worked on a striped dimity, lines stitched other half of
and spaces for stitches for shirring gauged by lines the diamond
in the dimity. on third line
and work up FIG. 21. A SuccESSFUL CoMBINA­
Figure 20.- In this illustration we have a new t o me e t t h e TION OF SINGLE CABLE AND
feature; indeed, two new features,- the double dia- first half. DouBLE WAVE
10
 FIG. 22. AN INTERESTING CoMBINATION OF STITCHES. See page I4
Figure 18. The Making of Points. - Checked ring and work to the second row to meet the first row
dimity was used for speed in workin g. Eleven of diamond. (See Fig. IS.) This makes, as you see,
rows of shirring was used. This includes only two a perfect diamond.
rows of diamond in the point to be shirred. The new Now holding your work so that the plaits are
idea in this illustration is the point in diamond stitch. perpendicular as shown, work the second diamond,
If the preceding studies and illustrations have been dropping one-hal f diamond on each side, or making
assimilated the worker is ready for the point, which each succeeding row one diamond less than the pre­
is made without shirring its full depth. A most im­ ceding one. As the eye is now trained to distance
portant time-saving demonstration, and one knows the requirem.ents, it is
which the worker is urged to acquire. unnecessary to shir for the point.
One goes readily through· the body Hold the work as directed, or secure
of the design, using first outline stitch, the top of the piece to a table or
then double cable, then outline in posi­ other firm surface, using thumb­
tion shown, then our recent lesson in tacks and holding each fold where it
Vandyke is put into practice; then would naturally be if shirred. Pull
outline and double cable and outline FrG. 23. BULLI0:-1 STITCH the plaits in place. It is advisable to
again finish the body of the design; baste or sew firmly a piece o f cloth
and here we encounter across the top of your
our point on the second work to use in pinning
row below the outline. it down with the thumb­
The first row of dia­ tacks. In this way your
mond is worked from smocking is not injured,
line to line above across and you can hold your
the line. The second plaits as tightly as i s
row is worked in the necessary. One might,
same manner as the first .%: if experiencing difficul­
row except you begin on
�
/ ties, practice a point by
the third row of shir- FrG. 24. OvERCASTING STITCH A Goon EDGE FINISH itself.
11
 dots are worked from right to left. Two pl�its are
taken together and two stitches taken over them.
Then the needle is carried under two plaits, and
in the next two plaits another dot is worked. The
point in this case begins with one row of fulJ
diamond across the piece. This row of diamonds
is divided into spaces of six diamonds. As one
proceeds drop one diamond in every succeeding
row, one-half on either side. These two patterns are
charming and quite elaborate enough for alJ or­
dinary uses. Of course, .if you fail to make your
point without shirring, you wilJ have to resort to
shirred lines until you are a more independent worker.
Spacing Points.- T here is no inflexible rule for
spacing points, as points are used large or small, as
suits the requirements o f the work and the taste of
the worker. ( See Figs. IS and I9.) Count your
diamonds when across the line. Divide the number
evenly if you can, or unevenly, if you must. Make
as many points as required, using the same number
of stitches in all. If you have twenty-five diamonds
you can have five points of four diamonds each,
leaving always a space between the points of one dia­
mond in the first row. As rows increase the space
increases in proportion, as you drop one-half dia­
mond on either side as you proceed or narrow your
work. Suppose you find you have twenty-five dia­
monds in all; you must start four points of four
diamonds each, making twenty diamonds. Now you
have one extra diamond to provide for and can use

DIAMOND STITCH. See Fig. IS and

page I4

Figure r g is again worked on checked dimity to

further illustrate the point. The outline and Vandyke
stitch are now old acquaintances, so we proceed to the
curved wave. This i s much admired, and gives an
elaborate, unusual appearance to a piece of work.
However, it is simple enough in execution. The
wave we have had and mastered ( Fig. IJ) , and the
curved wave is very similar. Thus work from a
given lir;te four outline stitches up to the line above;
then, curving very slightly, three stitches in out­
line are worked j ust above the line; then four out­
line stitches are worked down again to the first
line; then three outline s titches are worked just be­
low this line, and then four stitches in outline again
to the line above; then the three in outline just above
the line. This is one row of the curved wave. The
second line is worked one space either below or
above the first line. In this case, Fig. I9, fi fteen lines
were used or fi fteen checks. The two rows of
Vandyke were worked and then the curved lines or
wave put. Between these lines is shown a row of FIG. 26. PoiNT IN VANDYKE STITCH. See Fig. I7 and
dots in a deeper shade than the waved lines. These page IS
12
this· in the centre or third point to advantage, as it
usually looks better to have the centre of the gar­
ment with a deeper point than the other points. The
illustration shows a point of nine diamonds. Figure
I9 shows a point of six diamonds, and one readily
understands that points are not arbitrary factors, but
are quite adaptable.

Figure 27 shows how a variety of stitches can be

effectively combined into a wide border which can be
made even wider by adding three rows of wave stitch
below the last band of cable stitch to correspond with
the three at the beginning of the pattern. Feathered
diamond ( described on page 8) is a feature of this
border. Twenty-one rows were stitched on the sewing-

FIG. 28. POINT IN DouBLE VANDYKE STITCH. See

Fig. 17 and page 16

machine for lines and spaces. Seven stitches to the

inch were used. After the usual preparation, smocking
stitches were worked as follows: First row, single
outline; second row, two double cable and one full
diamond across the line; third row, single outline.
Three rows of wave, using three stitches up and three
stitches down, follow, and then on the eighth line we
work cable stitch across four times, forming the band.
A band in feathered diamond (six rows or five full
diamonds) comes next, followed by five rows of cable
as in the beginning of the pattern; single outline,
double cable and diamond and single outline finish
·

FIG. 27. AN INTERESTING COMBINATION the design.

13
 gun for the points, working to the sixteenth
line six and one-half times across the line;
the seventeenth line is worked to the six­
teenth line, completing the diamond. Work
across the line. (See detail of diamond stitch,
Fig. 15.) The following rows of diamonds
forming points are worked without shirring by
holding or fastening the work in a manner to
retain plaits already formed. This method
possesses the added virtue of leaving the mate­
rial free from shirring marks as well as being
'
a time-saver. I never mark a point except
when doing honeycomb work.
The finishing ornaments at the tip of the
point are in bullion stitch taken three times,
with the thread wound seven times around the
needle. The needle used should be round
eyed, as this sort has no enlargement at the
eye and allows the stitch· to slip easily off the
needle. Otherwise the stitch is s�oiled.
.
Figure 25.- The. illustration shows a design
suitable for women's frocks and blouses, or for
children's frocks. When used on a crepe de
Chine frock or blouse tlie smocking stitches
may be worked in silks of the same shade with
a very good effect. The illustration shown was
done with white cotton on plain pink madras.
The sewing-machine was used to secure the
lines and spaces, and in this case the point
was also· worked; using the shirred lines. Stitch

HoNEYCOMB SMOCKING DoNE oN HAND-RuN

TucKs. See page 17

Figure 22.-This border is one which can be

effectively used on a lady's blouse or dress. Nineteen
rows of shirrings were made, using every second cord
o.f the checked dimity which was used for the sample,
thus giving a fullness of three times.
;fhe various stitches used in this border have been
described on preceding pages, but it is the first example
of the addition of bullion stitch for ornament. Figure
23 so clearly shows bullion stitch in the process of
making that further description is unnecessary.
The double overcasting stitch shown py Fig. 24 is an
excellent edge finc r sh for blouses. It should be made
a rolled or narrow turned hem. The first row is outline
stitch; the second row double cable, which is two rows
of '�ihgle ·cable; the third row is outline; the fourth
row 'Is a ·curved wave, beginning on the fifth line
and working to the fourth line; the fifth row is the
second of the curved wave, ·beginning on the
sixth line and worked to fifth line, four stitches
up, one on each of four plaits, three above the
line, and four stitches down to the line below (see
illustration for proportions) just meets the line
in the curve (see direction for curved wave, Fig.
1 9 ) ; the sixth line is outline; seventh line is
double cable; eighth line is outline; ninth line is
Vandyke worked down to the tenth line; tenth
line just meets the line, leaving room for the
lower Vandyke to join on the line; eleventh
line, worked to the tenth line, is Vandyke, mak­
ing double Vandyke; twelfth line is outline; thir­
teenth line is double cable; fourteenth line is out­ MACHINE-STJTCHED TucKs ARE ALso
line. On the fifteenth line the diamond is be- RECOMME NDED. See page 18
14
on your sewing-machine twenty-four lines.
Do the preparation for the smocking stitches
as shown by Fig. S, page 4. Draw up the
shirring threads, secure them; pull the work
into place and work the first row in single
outline stitch ( see Fig. 6, page 4). Work
the second row in single cable stitch across
the line ( see Fig. I I) ; the third row in
single outline stitch across the line. On the
fourth gathering thread work a wave or
half-diamond, using three stitches up and
three stitches down ( see Fig. IS), working
down to the fifth line. This gives one-half
of the diamond, as· shown in the illustration.
( The wave and the half-diamond are fre­
quently the same thing, depending on its
application.) The second row of diamond
stitch is worked, beginning on the sixth
gathering thread, and down to the seventh,
as shown by Fig. IS, page 7· Reversing the
points on the seventh gathering thread work
to the eighth, as on the line above. This
secures a wave effect on either side of a
diamond. This is o ften named the double
diamond.
This idea can be carried out in any num­
ber of stitches, thus increasing the size o f
the wave and of the diamond, and several
rows of wave can be worked. When doing
shaded work this idea is extremely desir­
able. The three lines following this pattern
show single outline, cable and single out­
line, as in the beginning of the illustration.
Now we have a point worked in the dia­
mond stitch, using two stitches, one up and
one down. Work one full diamond across

CHILD's LoNG CoAT OF WHITE FRENCH SERGE.

See page r8

the line; then divide the line, as is shown in the illus­

tration. Work row after row in diamond stitch, drop­
ping one-half diamond at each side of every row; thus
you narrow to a point. This is an excellent p iece of
work for a beginner in smocking to practice on for
plain and shaded work, and to firmly establish the
principle of the point. In working the diamond point,
one applies the same principle as in the diamonds in
the centre o f the middle row.

Figure 26.- Here we have the Vandyke stitch, both

single and double. The double Vandyke is shown in
one row of the band, with the familiar and useful
outline on either side. The single Vandyke forms the
point. The mastering of this illustration is most essen­
tial at this time, as used in connection with the pre­
vious illustration ( Fig. 25). The detail of the Van­
dyke stitch is given on page 8, Fig. I7, and need not
be repeated here·. This point, as shown, was worked
FIG. 32.
on striped dimity. The lines were stitched on the
DETAIL OF SMOCKING oN CHILD's CoAT sewii)g-machine and the cords in the material used
15
Io. spacing the
s t i t c h e s .
T h i r t y ­
one rows were
used and the
p o i n t begun
w i t h twenty­
one stitches. A Smocking m:

space of one
line was ob­ FIG. 33- AN EXAMPil
served between CURVED LINES, THE 0
each row, and THE N UMBER OF PL
one - half stitch See
was dropped on
either side as
the work pro­
gressed, as i n
every case in
making points.

Figure 33. - Tn
preparing the ma­
terial for smocking
on curved lines, a
perfect circle of ten
inches in diameter
was stitched on white
sateen, using the sew­
ing-machine for lines
and spaces. Twelve rows
were stitched, the circle
widening to twenty inches,
each successive row, of neces­
sity, having many additional
stitches and plaits, the last row
doubling the first row. The points
after the first two rows of diamonds
were free-hand work or folds held in
position from previous stitches. The break
in the stitches caused by the increasing num­
ber of plaits is handled by using outline stitch to
divide the rows, thus permitting the use of the in­
creased number o f plaits. It is necessary in doing
work like this that the material be well covered by the
stitches, as unavoidably the folds or plaits are irregular.
The stitches used are single outline on the first line,
double cable on the second line, one-half diamond on the
third line, and double cable on the fourth line. Following this
are four lines of wave, using three stitches up and three stitches
down for the wave. After these one row of full diamond, and then
points made in diamond stitch. It will be noticed that the points vary in
size; twci points on either side begin with seven diamonds each, and two points in
the centre of the work begin with ten diamonds each ( see Figs. 18 and 19.)
The points may be worked in Vandyke stitch, if pre ferred, arranging the work so that the points would all
have the same number of stitches or if the number cannot be evenly divided, a deeper point could. be worked
for the centre front.
If the neck size is too large, smock one row of double cable stitch above the first row pictured, and if it
is neces!>ary to draw the neck in still more, a row of double outline stitch with its pretty braided effect would
make a charming finish for the edge.

Figure 28. - Here we have a very important illustration, showing the Vandyke stitch in connection with
the feathered diamond. Twenty-seven rows are prepared, using the sewing-machine for marking the lines
and spaces. Six stitches to the inch gave the size of the plait. The work being prepared, on the first gathering
thread work single outline ; on the second and third gathering threads single Vandyke; third and fourth single
Vandyke, forming the double Vandyke. The fifth row shows outline again. The sixth, seventh, eighth, ninth,
and tenth rows show feathered diamond to good advantage ( see Fig. r 6 ) . The eleventh line is single -outline,
and now we have our point in double Vandyke, worked once across the line in full Vandyke and then divided

16
 into points, as
shown, of four­
teen · full Van­
dyke stitches.
Any number
of stitches can
be used that
Curved Lines are liked. This
stitch c o v e r s
OF SMOC KING DONE ON
the work with
:ER Row HAVING DouBLE a lacelike ef­
TS OF THE IN NER Row fect, and must
age r6 not be worked
too tightly. The
stitch is not as
elastic as others;
but it is of great
beauty, the rich­
est point in smock­
ing. Its slow exe­
c u t i o n deters
workers from using
it generally, yet the
finest quality of work
frequently shows this
beautiful point.

Honeycomb Smocking.
-This is undoubtedly the
first form of the smocking
stitch, and is the stitch most
frequently seen on women's.
dresses and coats, and to a
considerable extent on children's
garments. For a very handsome·
illustration, see Fig. 3 I.
There are several different methods
of preparing material for honeycomb
smocking, and all ways lead to the same
result.
Material marked with dots, as Fig. 7, may be
shirred or not, as preferred, for it is perfectly
feasible to work the stitch on the dots without
shirring.
Begin work on second row of dots at upper right­
hand side. Fasten thread securely so that it will not pull
through. Bring needle up through second dot, take first and
second dots together, then over once again in first dot, pass needle
up back of material to first row and take second and third dots together
in same way. Down again to second row and take third and fourth dots
together. Then to first and take fourth and fifth dots. In other words, the dot
vertically parallel to the one last worked becomes the first in the succeeding stitch. A
point begins with any number divisible by two or four and ends with two dots ( see Fig. 7 ) .

Figure 2g.-This illustration shows a method o f preparing material for the honeycomb stitch, which i s at
every woman's command- hand-run tucks run or basted into place. The tucks are measured as when doing any
hand-tucking, the space between the tucks determining the size or width of the diamond. Use a card to measure
for the length, which should be about the same as the width from point to point.
Honeycomb smocking done on tucked material is worked from the left side from top to bottom. Take first
and second tucks together, over again, bring needle down inside second tuck to one-half the depth of the diamond,
take second and third tucks together and one stitch over. Come down full length of diamond, take first and
second tucks of diamond, take first and second tucks together as before, then second and third tucks again and
repeat the length desired. One row of work gives two rows of dots. 2d row--Take third and fourth tucks
together, once over, come down one-half width of diamond and take fourth and fifth tucks together, and continue
length desired. 3d row--Take fifth and sixth tucks together, one-half diamond down take sixth and seventh
tucks together, then fifth and sixth, and so on. The diamond should be oblong in shape when finished, although
the material for each diamond is square.
17
 Figure 30 gives which show the embroidered scallops matching the
still another varia­ embroidery on the collars. Feather-stitching at the
tion for preparing hems still further decorates this desirable coat for baby.
t h e honeycomb
smocking. In this Figure 33· Smocking on Curved Lines. - The
case the tucks were illustration and the directions are given on pages I6
stitched on the and 17.
sewing - machine,
using the tucker Figure 35· - A bishop sleeve dress which shows
for the purpose. a practical application of the smocking on curved
This is recom­ lines given under Fig. 3�· Figure 36 shows the com­
mended when an bination of stitches used on the yoke. Figure 34, the
amount of smock­ fewer rows on the sleeves. Edges of collars and
ing is to be made, cuffs show the double overcasting stitch ( Fig. 25, page
as it is absolutely I r) and are further ornamented with little "spiders".

r i g h t and
w o r k s
q u i c k l y.
Here again
one uses the
c a r d t o
measure the
depth of the
d i a m ond.
Use tucker
as for all
tucking,
one - eighth­
inch t u c k,
one - eighth­
i n c h space,
and so on.
Figure 31.
� Here we
show a prac­
tical applica­
tion of hon­
e y c o m b
s m o c king.
The w o r k
was done in
this case on
stitched
lines. T h e
points were
stitched to
Frc. 35. C HILD's BISHOP DREss.
the d e p t h ON CuRVED LINES. See Figs. 34
desired, and
the smocking quickly done with great precision. The smocking on
yoke and sleeves
Figure 32 shows honeycomb smocking enlarged. The consists of rows of
coat has a yoke, to which the smocking is j oined, and single cable and of
the yoke is covered by the deep collar. T11 e smocking single and double
wave in three
is done on the back as on the front, and the upper
stitches. FrG. 36. STITCHES FOR YOKE OF
collar is in two pieces, back and front alike.
The sleeves are smocked above the turn-up cuffs, FIG. 35

18
 Figure 37. - A honeycomb diamond used in con­
nection with a band or other stitchery furnishes the
o ften-needed finish for a piece of work in honeycomb
stitch. This illustration was prepared, using the sew­
ing-machine for lines and spaces, and the stitch was
worked from right to left.
Now, honeycomb stitch can be worked in . several
ways. It is the only smocking stitch so adaptable.
The various illustrations in this book fully illustrate
this principle. (See Figs. 29 and 30 on page 14, Fig. 32
on page r 5, where the work was prepared and worked,
using the tucked method - these examples being
worked from left to right.) When using the dot or
transfer method, the work can be done working from
either left or right, but the diamond is best secured
with two stitches over, worked from right to left, as
in the case of the dot used by embroiderers. Circum­
stances govern the method used for working the honey­
comb stitch. The material may be gathered, and the
stitch taken on the folds, or the stitch worked on the
dots without the preliminary gathering.
In working from left to right, using the dot or
transfer method, the progress is slow, and the ·work
is not well secured, although leaving a cleaner piece o f
work o n the wrong side.
The band commencing this design has been described
several times. Fourteen rows in ail were stitched and
shirred in the usual manner for this design. Using this
method, the needle carrying the shirring-thread is put
into the holes made by the machine needle. · In the suc­
ceeding rows the folds or plaits so secured are exactly
followed, the lines marked by the sewing-machine
being the width of the presser-foot apart.
Begin the honeycomb band on the fourth row at the
right end of the work. Secure the thread on the first
plait on the wrong side, bringing the needle up to the
right side through the second plait. Take the first and
second plaits together with two stitches over, as when
working an embroidered dot. Then from the wrong
side come down to the second line; bring your needle
through the third plait. Take the third and second
FrG. 38. DouBLE CABLE, WAVE AND DIAMOND. See
Frontispiece, page 2

plaits together twice as before. Then from the wrong

side again pass up to the first line. Take the fourth
and third plaits together twice and proceed across the
line. The second row is worked from the third line
to the second line, forming a diamond. Do not draw
your thread too tight in passing from stitch to stitch,
as it detracts from the elasticity of the work.

Figure 38. - The combinations of smocking stitches

shown by this detail have been very successfully used
on the little dress shown by the Frontispiece, page 2.
" The upper part of the detail, terminating in the diamond
points, shows the stitches used on the skirt. The
pattern below appears on the sleeves.
Three shades of a color are recommended for this
pattern, either rose or blue, as preferred, and two or
three threads of stranded cotton are best adapted for
working. Use the darker shade for the lines of wave­
stitch, the next shade for the double cable stitch . on
either side and, commencing with the darkest, use all
three shades for the points in diamond stitch, ending
with the lightest shade at the tips. The clusters of
Frc. 37. HoNEYCOMB SMOCKING IN CoMBINATION WITH hullion stitch which finish the tips o f the diamond­
SIMPLE SnTCHES. See page 14 stitch points should be in the darkest shade.
19
 Flower Smockin g
LAIN smocking and fancy smocking made with
P combined stitches, are very delightful indeed, but
for children's frocks even more lovely is smocking
combined with simply embroidered flower forms, bul­
lion stitch roses, daisies, and outlined foliage.
Unless otherwise specified three threads of stranded
cotton are used for both smocking and embroidery.
For shirring guide, mark off 6 dots to the inch ( on
wrong side of material) allowing material three times
the length the band is to be. The rows are spaced
the same distance apart as the dots. Wave stitches,
whether going down or coming up, are made between
as well as o n the shirred line.

Figure 37. Rose Point. - The frock upon which

this design forms a band below a plain yoke is a
model for a three-year-old and requires 2 yards of
mercerized batiste, or other soft material. Two
points form a repeat of the pattern and require 30 dots
each and about 6 points are needed for the band. Dot
and shir r8 rows, 6 dots to the inch. The first two
rows are worked in single cable stitch on the first
and second gathering threads. Dark blue was used
for the first row, light blue for the next and each
row was started with thread first above needle (see
Fig. I I , page 6). The next 4 gathering threads are
left free for embroidery. The points begin on the 7th
shirring line with dark blue. The single cable in
each row consists of an odd number of stitches which
are always taken with thread first above needle, in
order to end in this way and be ready for the wave
stitches (see Fig. 13, page 6 ) .
O n the seventh line, with dark blue, take 9 cable Frc. 37. RosE-PorNT YoKE.
stitches, * 6 outline or wave stitches down to tenth
·
line, 7 wave stitches up to line seven, I 7 cable stitches
( there should be r8 sts because the last outline stitch
is taken on the line) , repeat from * across, ending
with 9 cable stitches. Be sure to take a plait for each
stitch and to count very carefully so that the turning
point covers the same pair of plaits in each row.
On the eighth gathering thread work with light
blue, 7 cable stitches, 8 wave stitches down to twelfth
line, 9 wave stitches up to eighth line, J 3 cable stitches.
With dark thread work on the ninth line, 5 cable
stitches, r o wave stitches to fourteenth line, I I wave
stitches to ninth line, 9 cable stitches, repeat. With
light thread on tenth line, take 3 cable sts, 12 wave
sts to sixteenth line, 13 wave stitches to tenth line, 5
cable stitches, repeat. A wave of 15 stitches in dark
blue starting on eleventh line completes the points.
With a No. 8 embroidery needle work the pink
roses in bullion stitch. For each of the 2 curls at
centre wrap thread around needle 5 times, for next
round of 5 curls wrap thread around needle 7 times,
and for last round of 6 curls wrap thread 9 times.
For buds take 2 bullion stitches wrapping thread 9
times. With green outline the stems and work two
lazy-daisy stitches for each bud, and one for each leaf.

Figure 39. Rose Vine.- Dot and shir 15 rows 6

dots to the inch, 6r dots for each group. Outline Frc 38. DETAIL OF RosE- POI NT YOKE
20
stitch on the first row with thread below needle, on
the third with thread above needle. Make two correspond­
ing rows of outline stitch on thirteenth and fifteenth lines.
Start vine on tenth line. \IVave stitch up to sixth line, 9
cable stitches, the fi rst with thread above needle, wave
stitch down to tenth line, 9 cable stitches, the first with
thread below needle, continue across. The roses, leaves
and stems are made as directed for Figure 37 on page 20.
The stems are slightly curved and first worked for the
upper half, then the work is turned and the lower half
embroidered in the same way.

Figure 40. Black-eyed Susan. - This design is best

{:arried out in black, yellow and green, using black for
cable and wave stitches, deep yellow for the Black-eyed
Sttsans and green for foliage. Dot and shir r8 rows, 6
dots to the inch, 6o dots for each repeat of the pattern
On the first three gathering threads work single cable
stitches, starting the first and third rows with thread first
below needle, the second row with thread above needle.
Then bring up needle in the first plait of sixth gathering
thread, 4 wave stitches up to fourth line, 2I cable stitches FIG. 39. RosE VINE.
starting and ending with thread above needle to match
p revious row, 4 wave stitches down to sixth line, 5 wave
stitches up to fourth line. It is advisable to start the
wave for the last row at this point il). order to be sure the
turning point of the wave in centre covers the same two
plaits. Bring up a second needle on the first plait of
eighteenth line, 4 wave stitches up to sixteenth line, taking
the fourth stitch slightly below the gathering thread, wave
stitch down to line eighteen, up to line sixteen, and con­
tinue across. Then finish the fourth row of smocking tak­
ing 2'! cable stitches, wave down to sixth line and repeat.
Start again in first plait of sixth line, 4 wave stitches down,
taking the fourth stitch slightly above the eighth line, 6
cable stitches. Carry thread on wrong side of tenth line
and bring needle up in first plait, wave stitch to eighth
line taking the fourth stitch slightly below the gathering
thread, 6 cable sts, forming double cable. Carry thread to
tenth line, wave down to twelfth line, and take IO cable
stitches; carry thread to fourteenth line, wave up, and
complete double cable, wave stitch down to fourteenth line,
up to twelfth and leave thread on wrong side of work.
Bring needle up on first plait of fourteenth line, wave
down to sixteenth, I I cable stitches, wave stitch to four­ FIG. 40. BLACK-EYED SusAN.
teenth, and down to sixteenth, carry thread on wrong
side across to next point, and bring needle up between the
pair of plaits, finish one diamond, and cable stitch to
next point, wave stitch to fourteenth line and continue.
Take up thread on wrong side of twelfth line, skip r o
plaits, bring needle up i n next plait, wave stitch down to
fourteenth line, up to twelfth line, I I cable sts, wave st to
fourteenth line. Fiqish to correspond to opposite side. The
stems are in outline stitch, the leaves in lazy-daisy stitch
and the eight petals of the flower consist of a pair of bul­
lion stitches with thread wrapped around needle I2 times.
Make a black French knot in centre.

Figure 41. California Poppy. - The cable and wave

stitches are dark blue, buds and poppies deep yellow and
the leaves and stems are outlined in green.
Dot and shir I 7 rows, 6 dots to the inch, 71 dots for ·

each repeat of the pattern.

vVith thread first above needle cable stitch slightly above
the first gathering thread, the next row, with thread first
below needle, slightly below the same thread. The third
( Continued on page 22) FIG. 41. CALIFORNIA POPPY
21
 Bulgarian Sm ocking
. HE Bulgarian method of work gives the effect o f
T The best effect is secured in making the zig-zag
ordinary smocking, but i s much firmer, because lines by working as though you were making an or­
the preliminary gathers are allowed to remain, and dinary outline stitch of the sort used in the simplest
the pattern threads worked over them in one of the of embroidery. A little experimenting will show you,
smocking patterns, wh iCh are as varied in number however, that your work will have an irregular ap­
and kind as those of ordinary smocking. It is this pearance if, in putting in the zig-zag lines, the thread
keeping of the gathers and the fastening of them at is held as when outlining. This tendency can be over­
just the desired places that holds the material firmly, come if you take care tq hold your material always
even after the garment is quite worn out. in the same position, without turning it, and work the
In running in the gathering threads, the stitches points of the zig-zag to and away from the body
and the spaces between them should be of equal while the thread is held well to the left, under the
length. A good average length is three-eighths of an thumb of the left hand. Figure 44 shows how the
inch, although rather heavy material will take longer gathering stitch is picked up, and the position of the
stitches satisfactorily. working thread when making a zig-zag away from
When the smocking is to be done on a straight the body; Figure 45 shows the manner of picking up
piece of material, alternate the stitches and spaces in the stitch, and the position of the working thread
rows, the stitches of one row corresponding to the when making the zig-zag line toward the body.
spaces of the next. ( See Figure 42. ) Of course, this While making straight lines, like that shown in
is not possible when the material to be decorated is 1Fig. 4 3 , hold the thread down while passing the
curved, as in the case of a round neck dress. The needle upward under the gathering thread. Both
length of stitches will have to be adjusted to fit the gathers and design are worked in the same medium.
curve, those of each succeeding row being a bit long­
er than those of the previous row. ( ContinHed from page 2 1 )
The gathers are best put in with a single thread, row i s worked o n the second shirring line with thread
though the pattern will show up better if a double first above needle. Start the double wave on fifth
thread is used. It will facilitate matters, too, to put line and wave stitch up to the second, then down to
in all the gathers before drawing any of them up; the fifth and up again to the second. Begin again on
then, when the threads are pulled up; the material fi fth line, wave stitch down to eighth line and up to
should be carefully arranged before any are fastened. the fi fth, to finish the first diamond. Then bring. needle
I f one or two of the gathers are either too short or up on the eleventh gathering thread, wave up and
to o long, the work will not down, once. Start again on
lie fiat, as it should. the eleventh line and wave
After the gathers have all stitch across, W o r k n e x t
-been fastened, bring t h e wave all across too, starting
needle, threaded double, up on seventeenth line. Finish
to the right side o f the ma­ to correspond to opposite
terial at one end of the rows side. With thread take lazy­
of gathers and begin to work daisy stitches on and between
in the pattern. You will find points. Work the poppy
it easier to work with a petals in button-hole stitch,
blunt-pointed tapestry needle, radiating from a dot on the
to avoid catching into the eighth line of shirring. Mark
FIG. 42. each petal with a few
material, since the design is
put in by passing the needle stitches in a darker shade
and thread under the gathers. and put a black French knot
Figures 43, 44, and 45 show in centre. The bud is also
how this is done. buttonholed.

FrG. 43. FrG. 44. FrG. 45.

22
 !\ /\ - /\ - /\ - /\ - I
-

l \ / \/ \/ \ / \ /
\ - /\ - /\ /\ - /\ /\ - -

\;- \ / \/ \ / \ / \
/\ - !\ - /\ - /\ 1\ - I ·-

/ \/ \/ \ / \ / -\/
\ - /\ - 1\ - /\ - 1\ - /\
\;- \ /- \/ \1- \/ \
/\ - 1\ - /\ /\ /\ - I -
-

FIG. 46.

These samples show the effect of Bulgarian smock­

1 _ -v- -v- -v- -v- _ -v-
� _ _

FIG. 47. PATTERN FOR FrG. 46.

ing applied to different textures. To the right are
patterns of the designs which were worked upon t!Je
shirring threads . The dots in the diamond pattern

- ;\ - ;\ - ;\ - l\ - i\ -
above are caused by shirring threads the same color
as the embroidery. Two colors are used for each of
the other patterns.

\ / \! \ ! \ / \! \!
/\ - ;\ I\ - ;\ - ;\ -
\i \i \! \ ! \ i \ i
-
-

!\ /\ - !\ - !\ - ;\ - ;\
-

\ / \ / \ / \/ \/ -
/\ - /\ ;\ - /\ - 1\ I\-
- -

_
\;- \J- v -v- _ v- _
_ _ -
-
_

FIG. 49- PATTERN FOR FIG. 48.

FIG. 48.

- ;\ - - /\ - - i\ - - /\
/ \ 1- \ - / \ /
- -
.
-

/ /\ \/ /\ \/ !\ \/ 1\
\ \/ /\ \ 1 /\ \! I\ \;
\ / -\ / \ / \ -
- - -

\/ \! \/ \1
- - - - - - - -
- - -

- - . -

FIG. so. FIG. S I . PATTERN FOR FIG. so.

23
 - - - - -- - - -

/\ /\ - /\ - ;\ - !\ ;\
--- - - - -- - - -- -

\/ \/ -\ 1- \ / \1-
-

- -
-

- - - - - - - - -

- - -- - --

- - - /\ - .- - - ;\ - -
- - - - - - -- - .- - -
- - -

- - ) _ -\ - - - - !- _ \ -
- - - - -

I 1\ \ I 1\ \
- -

\-/ / \\ - / / \\
- \j j ;\_ \_ \;- ; !-\ -\ \ -

\ I I \ \ I I \ \
-
_ -v- � - _ -\ -v ; _ -\ \ _
-
_
-

!\ \ ! !\ \ I !
) _ \ \_ ) ) _ \ \ - ! )
-

I\ \ \1 I I \ \ \ 1 I I
\ \- / /
I

FIG. 52. pATTERN FIG. 5 3 AT RIGHT.

/ \ \ - / /
_ - _ \_ -v ;- _ - _ \_ -v- ;
These samples show designs worked in Bulgarian
smocking on cotton crepe using six threads of strand­ _

\ I
-

\ I
-

ed cotton for the embroidery medium. The tiny hori­

zontal lines represent the shirring threads after they
have been drawn up.
- \1 - - -\1 -
-

- -
- - - - -

- - -
\ - i\ ;\ - /\ - ;\ - 1\
�- - --- -- - - - - - - - - - -- - - - - - - - -
-

\ / \i \ / \/ \ / \
-

1\ 1\ I\ 1\ 1 \
- 1\ - I\ ;\ - !\ - 1\ I - - - -
v v _ v _ -v- v _ -v
/ \/ \/ -\1- \/ \/
- - _ - _
- -

- /\ 1\ I\ - /\ - 1\ - I FIG.
5 3-
/ \/ \/ \i \/ \i
--
-

\ - l\ /\ - /\ - 1\ - 1\
- - - -
v v v -v- -v- \
-

- _ _ _ _
-
_

\ I \ I\ / \ 1 \ 1 \
\/ \ / \ / \/ \ / \
- /\ 1\ ;\ - 1\ 1\ - I
- - -

1- -v- -v- -v- -v- -v-

_ _ _ _ _

FIG. 5 4. PATTERN FOR FIG. 55. FIG. 55·

24
 Vertical Smockin g Another I nterestin g Variation
V ERTICAL smocking is a radical departure from
the types previously described as it is worked in
The smocking stitchery is a very simple long and
short running stitch, taken vertically up and down
zig-zag vertical lines up and down the width of the the width o f the pattern. Hold the material in your
pattern. Shirring threads are unnecessary as the em­ hand between thumb and fingers so that you can work
briodery which forms the pattern fulls the material. the pattern vertically. At the end of each row, pull
This type of smocking is best suited to use on checked the thread a little tight so that the stitches are almost
dimity, gingham or dotted Swiss, the pattern of the in a straight line, and hold the fabric lengthwise
material being used as a guide for the smocking stitch­ straight and tight. This will give the necessary shirred
es but after one becomes accustomed to the technique effect to the smocking. The solid black lines of the
it is quite possible to do vertical · smocking on plain pattern are the long surface stitches, the small spaces
material with no other guide than the fabric threads. between them indicate where the thread is carried on
Coarse embroidery cotton is the proper working the under side and the dotted lines represent long
medium. stitches which it is sometimes necessary to carry on
the under side when forming patterns.

FrG. 56 FIG. 57· PATTERN FOR FrG. s 6

fl
6 / � / '- / ' / '- / '- / '- / � / , /
__ ..._. - - - - ----- --

� Z '/'/ �/'/'/'/'/�
D � } / ' / ' / � / ' / ' / ' / '- /
').. /.: ' /: :' / ' / � /: :' / '
7 { / ,: :/ ' / ' / ': :/ , /
F'�'/'/'/'/'/'/'/
G /' . . . . •·
/� . . . . .

FrG. s 8 FIG. 59. pATTERN FOR FIG. 58

A__ -- -- -- -- -- --

8 /'- /� / ' / ' /' / ' /'- / '

'- / '- / ' / ' / ' / ' / ' / ' /
FrG. 6o ? , /. , / , / , / , / ' / , / ,
0 �/' /' / ' / ' /'/'/ '/
F / , / � / '. / '. / , / '. / '. / '
G

FrG. 6 1 . pATTERN FOR FIG. 60

25
 A

B / " / " / " / ""- / ""- / " / " / " /

""- / " / ""- / " / ""'- / " / ""'- / ""'- /
c

c
/" / " /" / " /"/ " /"/" 8
" / " / " / ""'- / ""- / " / ""'- / " /
A
' FIG. 63. PATTERX FOR FIG. 62

Figure 56. Two rows of diamonds. Fig. 57 gives

working pattern. Knot your thread and bring i t
through from the back a t A , take a . tiny vertical
stitch diagonally to the left at B, then to C, then D,
at this point pull your thread, at the same time stretch
FIG. 62 your IllAterial lengthwise so that there will appear al­
most a straight running stitch. Turn your work, take
a short running stitch at E, then go to F, same place
as the stitch that was taken at C, to G, then H at A.
Pull your thread as before and stretch your material,
then turn and continue in the same way.

"'-. / "'-. / ""'- / " --

-- '- /
"
-"" /
a / -- -- --
c
A� "'- / " / '\_
/" / "/ /
/' "'-. / "'-. /"'-. / " / ""'- / "'-.
C "' /E""- / ""'- / "'. / " / " /
D
FIG. 65 . PATTERN FOR FIG. 64
FIG. 64. CuRVED S M ocKING WoRKED oN A STRAIGHT PIECE
OF DoTTED Swiss

Figure 58. The pattern Fig. 59 shows clearly how

effective is white smocking done on white and colored
checked gingham. When you come to the dotted
lines of the pattern, carry your thread under to the
next point.

/ "'-. / "'-. / ""'- / ""'- / "'-. / '\. / " / '

B � / '\. / '\. / " / '\. / "'-. / ' / ' /
? " / ""'- / "'- / " / "'- / " / " / "
0 } / ' / ' / ""- / "'-. / , / '\_ / , /
/' ""'- /: : " / " /: :" / " /:
F " / "": :/ '\_ / ": :/ " / ":
H
� ""- / "'-. / "'-. / ' / " / " / '\_ / '\_
"'- / ' / " / '-. / ' / '\. / ""'- / '\. /
J / ""'- / "- / ' / " / "- / " / ""- 6
K

FIG. 66 FIG. 67. PATTERN FOR FIG. 66

26
 Figure 6o. The two borders of the
design are worked separately to avoid
carrying long stitches on the back. In
both cases the stitches go vertically up
and down, A, B, C, etc. See Fig. 6r.

Figure 62. The tiny circles in the fab­

ric serve as guide to the smocking.
The two rows of single diamonds are
worked separately as they are over an
inch apart. See Fig. 63.

Figure 64. This sample shows the

FIG. 68.
method of doing vertical smocking on
S MOCKING ON
a curve as around the neck of a child's
DOTTED Swiss
dress. Having worked the preceding
patterns you have doubtless found that
edges finished with straight horizontal
stitches hold the material securely in
place, while edges which finish with
little diamond points are quite elastic.
The principle of curved smocking as
shown in Fig. 64 , is to work a band
edged with points below one with
straight edges. See Fig. 65 .

Figure 66. Here the whole design is

worked up and down as seen in Fig.
67. When you come to the dotted lines,
carry your thread under to the next
point. This is a somewhat similar de­ A.

/ '\.. / " / '/ ' / ' / '/' /'

sign to that in Fig. 58, but is finished
with straight stitches at top and bottom.
8 '} ' / '/ '/ ' / '/ ' / ' /

(�
Figure 68. The top row of diamonds
is worked separately. The points are
0 _7 ;/ ' ) / ' : / , _/ ' : / ' : / ' :/ '
worked in combination with the second
border, as shown in Fig. 69. When � I /l' . . � : .
you come to the dotted lines carry the E
;, / , /, / ,/,/,/
F
thread under to the next stitch.
/ ' /'/' / '/ '
Figure 70. The pattern for this
sample is the same as used for the Back­ ' /'/ '/ ,/ ,/
/.. .\.. .(._\_
stitch smocking shown in Fig. 7 1 . Pat­
tern Fig. 72 was stamped on cotton
crepe and was worked with rope cot­ FrG. 69. PATTERN FOR FIG. 68
ton. The illustration is half of the act�
ual size.
Any of the designs shown for Verti­
cal or Backstitch smocking may be used
interchangeably.

Laundering Smocking

Use a good soap. Wash by hand

quickly, rinse thoroughly, and do not
starch the smocking. Let partly dry ;
then roll it in a clean cloth and let it
remain for about one hour. Iron as
usual, only do not iron •your smock­
ing, gently pull it into its original
position. Then the smocked portions
can be placed right side up over a
Turkish towel, folded several times and
lightly touched with a warm iron or
wrong side of smocking can be held
over an inverted iron as in steaming
velvet ; this stiffens the plaits. FIG. 10. FIG. 72 USED

27
 Surface Smockin g Backstitch Smockin g

W ITH the single exception of Vertical Smocking

all the preceding samples have been done upon I Fallow
you wish to smock on a garment which does not
for great fullness, you could not choose a
material which has been previously gathered. To better type than Backstitch Smocking. Shirring
avoid preliminary shirring and reduce fullness a sim­ threads are omitted and the stitchery is done by sur­
plified form of smocking may be done working the face dots.
various patterns by dots which have been marked on While the fabric may be smocked by this method,
the surface of the material, instead of on the under small checked ginghams and dotted Swiss in them­
side. Only such dots as needed for the smocking pat­ selves provide the necessary marking for guidance.
tern are marked on the material. Use coarse embroidery cotton for cotton fabrics
The working of the various smocking stitches is and yarn on Jersey. All the patterns illustrated are
exactly as described on pages 5 -2 r . The dots are done in the familiar Vandyke stitch smocking.
usually spaced one-quarter inch apart, and the stitch­ Each row of smocking is worked rom right to
es are taken through every dot about one-eighth left in a horizontal z ig-zag or triangular fashion, from
inch deep. As there is no previous shirring, after one dot to the other, taking a long running stitch on
each stitch the thread should be pulled tight until a the top, and a short running stitch under the dot, then
plait or fold of the material is formed. For good a backstitch over the dot. While working hold your
results it is absolutely necessary to pull the thread thread a little tight j ust before taking the backstitch,
evenly after each stitch. Points formed with the wave as in this way you gauge the fullness of your fabric.
or diamond stitches require two dots at the end, just Be careful to have all your long stitches the same
as in the regular smocking ( see page 32) . length, so that all the diamonds have the same shape
You can use the transfer dots on page 32 as a guide and size. The short backstitch which is made after
for this method of smocking, by adding an additional each long stitch, not only prevents the smocking from
dot, or taking an extra stitch, between the dots. stretching, but covers the stamped dot.
Figures 71 to 76 inclusive show samples of Back­
Designing Smocking Patterns. The simplest way stitch Smocking and patterns of the designs.
to design patterns for smocking is to use cross sec­ The smocking for Fig. 71 was made on Wool Jer­
tion paper that measures four squares to the inch. sey, stamped with pattern Fig. 72, and worked with
This will allow a quarter inch space between the dots, tan yarn according to detail shown in Fig. 73.
and the finished work wMI be about one half or more vVhen the pattern calls for straight horizontal lines,
the length of the pattern. such as in Figs. 74 and 76, they are naturally worked
Draw your pattern in a similar fashion to the pat­ in straight stitches with back stitches between. The
tern given on pages 25 to 3 I . Checked and dotted fab­ points are worked back and forth, and fintshed sepa­
rics will not require the dots, but the paper pattern rately. All the patterns appearing on pages 28-31
will be found very helpful while doing the smocking. may be worked also in Vertical Smocking.

FlG. i f . HENNA "'WooL JERSEY s�roCKED WITH TA:-< YARN

28
• • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • . ' • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • •
FIG. 72. PATTERN FOR FIG. 7 I

Figure 72 gives the actual size pattern for the de­ working upon dotted muslin, checked dimity or ging­
sign on the preceding page. Trace the dots and trans­ ham the marked dots are unnecessary.
fer to the material by means of carbon paper. Fig. It is easy to vary this pattern by omitting the small
73 shows the direction of the zig-zag stitches as they · spots between . the points or by alternately making
proceed in orderly rows from right to left. When large and small points along the lower edge.

/�/' / ' / ' / ' / ' / ' / ' / ' / '/ ' / '
• • • • • • • • • • • •

' /' /' / ' / ' / '/ ' / ' / '/ '/ ' / '/
·• . . . . . . . . . . . .

• • • • • • • • • • • •

•
'/ ' /' /'/' / ' / ' / ' / �/ '/ ' / ' /
• • • • • • • • • • • •

• •

/ ' /' /' / '/ '/ '/ '/ '/ '/

• • • • • • • • • ••

' /' /' / '/'/'/'/'/

• • • • • • • • • •

/, /, / '/ '/'/' /
• • • • • •

/'
• • •

, /, / /, / '/ ' / ' /

• • • • • • • •

,
•

/'/ /' /' /' '/ '/

• • • • • • • •

• •

'/ '/ '/ '/

• • • • • •

• • •

FrG. 73. DIRECTION OF SMOCKING STITCHES FOR FIG. 7 1 .

•

29
 Frc. 75

Frc. 76. EAcH PoiNT IS WoRKED SEPARATELY

30
· -· · - · - · - · - · - · - · - · - · - · -·

-· ·-·- · - · · · · · · ·
- · - -
-
- - - -
-

.
/., /., /. , /. , /. , /. , /., / ., /. , /., /., / ,
.
. , /. , /· , /., /. , /. , /. , / , /., /., /. , /., /.
/ / / '- / '· / '· / "-./ "·/ '· / '
• • • • • • • • • • • •

./ " / '-. '., "-. / "- ·

. .
·

.
/, /. ,
. .
/ .,
.
/.,
/, / , /. , / , / ,/ , /., /.,
.
., / ., / .
· , .

., / ' / , /·, /.
. , /. , /.
.

. , /.
•
., /. •
.. , / . •
. , /. •

-·-· -· · - · - · - · -· · - · - · - · - ·-

· ·- ·- · ·-·-·-·-·-
---.f• - · - · - -
 Pattern for the Transfer Dot Method of Marking for Shirring
Threads as described on Page 5
REPARE a working pattern by placing thin paper desired by moving the paper along, using the last row
P over pattern of dots below, marking dots with of dots as a key to keep the subsequent rows even.
pencil, and transfer to material by means of carbon The points at the bottom are of use chiefly in Honey­
paper placed face down between working pattern and comb Smocking. ( See page q.) In making addi­
material, using a pencil or any blunt-pointed instrument. tional points, repeat from two vertical centre lines of
The working pattern may be made any length or depth dots in middle point as many times as desired.

• • • •
• • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • •
• • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •
• •

• • • • • • •

• • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • •
• • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •
•

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • • •

• • • • • • • • •

• • • • • •

• •

32
 friscilla
NEEDlEWORK
Books
Priscilla Italian Embroidery Book - It i s the Priscilla Filet Crochet Book No. 2 - The il­
newest and most authoritative book on this fash­ l ustrations are from the real work and show just
ionable form of needlecraft. Full i nstructions for how the finished pieces should l ook. Many of the
Italian Hemstitching; picots and edge finishes, Gros pieces can be adapted for a variety of uses. The
Venice Stitchery, Cutwork and simulated Cutwork new Priscilla Cameo Crochet - a most beautiful
and varieties of Italian Tassels. Provides dozens of form of work - is i l lustrated and described.
attractive designs. Priscilla Battenberg and Point Lace Book­
Priscilla Patchwork Book - Contains full in­ Here are practi cal, i l lustrated directions for makin �
structions for making modern patchwork. 'l'welve lace. Each step i s taken up. Over one hundred
beautiful quilts in applique patchwork are i l l us­ stitches are shown.

Thirty-five patterns for pieced quilts and a number - Contains nearly 100 beautiful designs for centre­
trated and outline patterns provided for each. Priscilla Crocheted Centrepiece& and Doilies

of artistic quilting patterns. pieces and doilies, with f u l l directions for working.
Priscilla Crochet Bedspread Book - Gives Many beautiful imported designs in this collection.
over thirty handsome patterns for the popu lar Cro­ Priscilla Tatting Book No. 2 - Contains nearl y
chet Bedspreads . Many i l l uatrations show the 100 new designs, a l l beautiful ly i l lustrated, with
completed spreads, also aquares, hexagons, i nser­ full directions for working. The newer ideas in
tions, and borders which can be adapted in various tatting are given special attention and many charm­

Priscilla Tatting Book No. 3 - Contains di­

ways. A l l the stitches used are very simple. ing designs are carried out by unusual methods.
Priscilla Bead Work Book - Gives directions
for making a l l kinds of bead work and contains a rections for tatting stitches, simple edges in single
large and attractive assortment of i l lustrated de­ and double thre•d tatting, beadings and medallions,
signs for bags, purses, card-cases, necklaces, chains, as well as articles i n many unusual varieties of
girdles, etc. tatting - Knot-stitch, Cluny, Lattice-stitch,
Priscilla Irish Crochet Book No. 2 - Supple­ Twisted, Roll, etc.
ment to first book. Gives a large assortment of Priscilla Colored Cross Stitch Book No. 1 -
motifs and finished articles. A book i n which al l i l l ustrations are produced i n the
Priscilla Netting Book - Gives full directions actual colors of the work. Thirty-five different de­
for square and circular netting, and details of the signs are shown.
weaving, darning and embroidery stitches used i n Priscilla Colored Cross Stitch Book No, 1 -
this work. Beautiful i l lustrations of finished work This bcok contains forty designs in cross stitch re­
are given, and the patterns can also be used for produced i n the actual colors of the flosses.
Filet Crochet, Cross Stitch, and Bead Work. Priscilla Cluny Crochet Book - F u l l direc­
Priscilla Basketry Book No. 1 - Includes de­ tions for edgings and 'insertions, for household and
scriptions of weaves, bases and borders used in reed personal use. Profusely i l l ustrated. Luncheon
work, as well as directions for reed and raffia, splint tiets, Dresser Sets, Doilies, Centrepieces, Pillows,
baskets and chair caning. Boudoir Caps, Camisoles, Candle Shade, Baby
Priscilla Bobbin Lace Book - The designs i n Caps, Towels, Library Set, etc.
this book take up the work from the beginning, a l l Priscilla Hedeho and Cutwork Book - De­
the tools a n d materials being fully described. Beau­ signs are given for centrepieces and doilies, scarfs,
tiful de�igns are given for Torchon, Cluny, Russian pillows, bags, pin-cushions, sachets, etc. The Hed­
and Bruges laces. ebo designs are extremely beautiful and artistic,

Price various forms of this charming and popular work.

Priscilla Hardanger Book No. 1 - In the open­ and the section devoted to cutwork describes all the
ing chapters will be found the various funda­
mental stitches and their many combinations. Fol­ Priscilla Cotton Knitting Book - Thirty-two
lowing these are many attractive designs with de­ pages of i llustrated directions for everything

35c
tails and copious descriptive text. knitted. Nearly eighty patterns for household and
Priscilla Hardanger Book No. 2 - This book personal use. Interesting novelties in cameo and
contains a variety of Borders for table runners, filet knitting.
chair backs, curtains and tea cloths, al l-ever effects Priscilla Armenian Needlepoint Lace Book­
for cushions and bags and designs for centrepieces. Carrying out the Priscilla policy of p roviding the
· Priscilla Baby Book - Gives directions for a new and unusual in needlework. This new book
wide variety of beautiful garments in silk and wool. gives simple, clear instructions for mastering every

knitted in white and a dainty shade of pink and em­

One of the features of this book i s a special Layette, step of this fascinating l acework. It teaches every

Priscilla Chin& Painting Book - Flat paint­

each
single detail and then provides many choice designs.
broidered with Rambler Roses.
Priscilla Monogram and Initial Book - Il­ ing, working in enamels, lustre, and gold are a l l
lustrates and explains in detail between seventy and c!lrefully explained i n such a way that one wholly
eighty different styles of initials and monograms. unfamiliar with china painting in any form can take
One section gives crocheted initials with a block up the art without need of personal instruction. All
pattern of an alphabet and directions for crocheting. the designs are shown actual size ready for tracing
Also a four-page insert by which you can make any
monogram or monograms you desire.
Priscilla Crochet Edgings and Insertions
3 for $1.00 on the china.
Priscilla Spot Book - Tells how to remove ev­
ery kind of a spot or stain.
Book No. 1 - Is one of the most popular we have Modern Pl'iscilla Cook Book - 1000 carefully

Priscilla Smocking Book - A method of pm­

ever brought out. Nearly 43,000 sold in six months! selected recipes. Each tested i n the Priscilla

Price S2.00.
It contains over one hundred handsome, new cro­ Proving Plant. 407 pages, bound in glossy white

underwear, dresses, and a multitude of other uses.

chet designs for edgings and insertions, suitable for, paring material for smocking stitches by means of a oilcloth.
sewing machine is a feature, A l l the different Modern Priscilla Home l'urniahing Book -
Priscilla Edgings and Insertions No. 2 - stitches are described and i llustrated by worked ex­ A big 340 page book that is a complete encyclo­
Contains nearly one hundred i l l ustrations of de­ amples and there are numerous appli cations to pedia of how to furnish and decorate the home.

Priscilla Filet Crochet Book No. 1 - Gives a Price $2.00.

signs which include almost every variety of cro­ blouses, smocks, children's dresses, etc. Contains the work of 30 expert Interior Decorators.
chet. Among them are some wonderfully beauti­ Profusely i l l ustrated.
ful designs in Filet Crochet, and many unusual wide variety of patterns in flora l , conventional and How to Entertain at Home - When it is your
English and French patterns. the quaint heraldic and n1ythological figures so turn to give a party, turn to the newest book in the
Priscilla Yoke Book - Contains nearly forty characteristic of Filet lace. l\Iany i l l ustrations of Priscilla Library, How to Entertain at Home, and
patterns of yokes in crochet and tatting. Some es­ finished work showing the beautiful effects possible. you will find just the ideas that wi l l make your

Price $2.00.
pecially beautiful yokes in Filet Crochet are in­ A multitude of designs carried out i n block effect so affair a success. 4 1 6 pages profusely illuatrated.
cluded. they can be easily copied.

The Pt·iscilla Company, Boston,Mass.

 "IT has seemed as if the September, October and Nov­
ember issues of Modern Priscilla have been illustrated
and written as fascinatingly as any short story. "
Women everywhere are being attracted to the improved Modern Priscilla.
It teaches how to make all sorts of beautiful things for yourself, your
friends and your home ; provides newest ideas for frocks, hats and chil·
dren's wear, with the most up-to-the-minute and practical housekeeping
section to be found in any magazine. Now we are making this good
magazine even better. Each issue provides several pages of interesting
fiction - at least one story you will love to read.

Buy Modern Priscilla on the news­

stands or send $2.00 for a full year's
subscription. ( Two years-$3.00.)

THE PRISCILLA COMPANY

470 ATLANTIC AVE. BOSTON, MASS.