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ROAD TRIPS CALIFORNIA ROAD TRIPS QUOTABLE

Michelle C. Torres-Grant Wellspring Ranch

THE AIRSTREAM at Wellspring Ranch in Cayucos, Calif., is of the luxury International series.

Photographs by Allen J. Schaben Los Angeles Times Kate's Lazy Desert

THE GLEAM of a 22-foot Airstream Sport stands out in the stark Mojave Desert setting of California’s Red Rock Canyon State Park. The trailer contains a luxurious bed, a dining room table, a stove, a refrigerator and a full-size shower. THE HAIRSTREAM is one of six themed trailers at Kate’s Lazy Desert in Landers, Calif.

HI-YO SILVER ... AWAY WE GO

SCRATCH THE ITCH
dessert stops. The White House
By Charles Fleming Saloon is known for its chili. The
Renting an Randsburg General Store, right
For more than 80 years the across the street, is famed for its
Airstream

WITHOUT A HITCH
Airstream trailer company has homemade ice cream, milk shakes,
been a fixation for American road malts and sundaes.
warriors entranced by its sleek, The 2017 Airstream Sport unit we We enjoyed a little of everything
bullet-shaped aluminum body and towed sells for $52,900 and up. while admiring the passing parade
the promise of camping in luxury, Similar trailers, along with trucks of “Mad Max”-like desert motor-
to haul them, can be rented from
nowadays known as glamping. cycles, ATVs and dune buggies
a variety of Southern California
The shiny trailers, built in Ohio, that use the once-thriving mining
vendors.
cast a strange spell. Smitten by town as a weekend way station. Road, Watsonville; (831) 722-0551, the sleek wood-and-metal interi-
some combination of nostalgia and 8 Airstream 2 Go ( [800] We had planned to visit Burro By April Orcutt koa.com/campgrounds/santa ors. The Outpost also offers yoga
780-9880), airstream2go.com)
wanderlust, a cross-generational Schmidt Tunnel too. Despite doz- -cruz. From $195 a night. classes and beach-cruiser bikes.
rents a 28-foot model starting at
section of Americans — from the ens of trips to the desert, neither Romance, nostalgia and free- Info: 317 Bryant St., Ojai; (805)
$2,400 for a three-day loan.
still ambulatory greatest genera- Julie nor I had ever seen this half- dom of the road all come together Cayucos: Wellspring Ranch, a 836-4891, caravanoutpost.com.
tion folks to their boomer children 8 Used trailers are available at mile-long oddity. in those shiny time machines “private retreat and sanctuary for From $179 a night.
lower rates from Tinno’s RV
and their hipster grandkids — all It was hand-dug in the early called Airstream travel trailers. couples” northwest of San Luis
Rental ([626] 616-8668,
long to hit the road like high-style 1900s by William Schmidt, an Great road trippin’ memories of Obispo, has a luxury Interna- Landers: Adults-only Kate’s
www.tinnosrvrental.com), which
hobos. offers 16-foot Bambi trailers for entrepreneur who spent 38 years the ’50s are difficult — and expen- tional-series Airstream that has Lazy Desert, 20 miles north of
So what’s it like to actually trav- $185 a day up to 23-foot Flying digging a shortcut through a gran- sive — to re-create, but the tug of never been on the road (other Joshua Tree National Park, re-
el in one? Once we arrived, being Clouds for $365 a day. ite mountain separating the local the Airstream dream is so strong than getting to the ranch). Meals, flects the style of its owner, Kate
there was terrific. But getting there mines from the stamping mills. and entrepreneurs so accommo- served in the garden or café, are Pierson of the B-52s. She hired
8 Tinno’s also rents a Yukon XL
was terrifying. truck for hauling the Airstreams But folks we met in Randsburg dating that you can now stay in included. Guests can ramble on eccentric artists to decorate the
for an additional $145 a day, plus told us the recent rains had made one without pulling a heavy hiking trails, practice yoga or six Airstreams with themes such
The going was good mileage. the dirt roads approaching the trailer. drive 20 minutes to Paso Robles as Tiki, Tinkerbell and Planet Air.
My wife, Julie, and I left Los An- tunnel treacherous. We decided to Airstream “hotels” are pop- wine country. The ranch has a Hot Lava is decorated with vivid
geles early on a Friday morning in save it for another day. ping up throughout California. Tesla charging station. Info: 9150 red polka dots and blobs — it’s a
April, driving an Infiniti QX80 SUV desert snakes, including rattlers. From north to south, here’s your Santa Rita Road, Cayucos; (805) little like being trapped inside a
and pulling a 22-foot Airstream The hiking was even better A windy wind-up chance to experience Airstream 9951644, www.wellspringranch lava lamp. If the lava’s too hot,
Sport. I was testing the Infiniti for a closer to our campsite. We ex- Nightfall in the desert often travel without a hitch: .com. $450 a night plus one-time take a dip in the above-ground
car review and wanted to know plored the trails immediately west means the end of whatever breeze cleaning fee starting at $50. pool. Info: 58380 Botkin Road,
something about its strength. of the Airstream, following sandy has been blowing that day. But Guerneville: Russian River Landers; (845) 688-7200, www.lat
Towing a trailer seemed a good way washes along sandstone cliffs, ab- sometimes it means the opposite. Autocamp, in the heart of So- Buellton: Flying Flags RV Re- .ms/lazydesert. From $175 per
to do that while indulging my curi- sorbing that strange, special si- Our second night was windy, ex- noma County, has 23 customized sort & Campground rents nine night.
osity about the Airstream. lence that one finds in dry desert posing one of the weaknesses of Airstreams with a deck and fire Airstreams that have been refur-
We were headed for the Mojave landscapes. our desert digs. The Airstream pit at each site. If guests tire of bished with themed interiors Joshua Tree: Hicksville Trailer
Desert and a campground in Red We got back to camp near sun- folks hadn’t given us a key to the wine-tasting and strolling such as Mod Squad and Urban Palace & Artist Retreat is a
Rock Canyon State Park ([661] A FIRE PIT makes for a cozy night for Charles and Julie Fleming, who snapped up a camp site in Red Rock Canyon State Park. down and began bundling up as cabinet containing the tool de- through nearby Armstrong Red- Cowboy. Microwaves, mini-refrig- hoot. Two of its nine trailers are
946-6092, www.lat.ms/redrock) the outdoor temperatures fell from signed to lower the trailer’s stabi- woods State Natural Preserve, erators, coffee makers, flat-panel Airstreams: the Sweet and the
largely because we’d been in Our first stop was Vasquez ve to gas up and get coffee. The staff nights’ residence in a spot that, supply heating, though the gentle 70 to 55 degrees in an hour. lizing legs, which would hold the they can canoe, bicycle and play cable TVs, Wi-Fi and a barbecue Integratrailor. The 22-foot Sweet
Joshua Tree twice recently and I Rocks, the otherworldly landscape at the Sister Sister Coffee House though it didn’t include RV hook- nighttime temperatures didn’t re- I had brought firewood from unit steady and prevent any side- tennis or boccie ball. Info: 14120 or fire pit are included. Info: 180 is a throwback to the ’70s with
wanted to investigate an area I had off Agua Dulce Canyon Road that seemed, as always, giddy with ex- ups or showers, did offer clean pub- quire it. home, and after dinner set kindling to-side movement. Old Cazadero Road, Guerneville; Avenue of the Flags, Buellton; orange walls and turquoise shag
driven past many times but never has served as a film and TV loca- citement to have customers and lic restrooms, drinking fountains The Sport, one of eight trailer and small branches alight in the For much of the night the trailer (888) 405-7553, www.lat.ms/ (877) 783-5247, www.lat.ms/ carpeting. Guests can sleep on
really explored. tion for shows as different as “Gun- served us some good brew before and trash cans. (Seniors 62 and designs Airstream offers, would fire pit. Soon we had a roaring rocked gently in the wind, rolling russianriver. From $200 a night. flyingflags. From $99 a night. two large curvy couches (there’s
Julie’s spirits were higher than smoke” and “Star Trek.” we continued into the desert. older pay $23 per night.) have also allowed us to run a micro- blaze. We settled back in our fold- like a ship on the sea with each suc- no bed) while listening to tunes
mine, because the Infiniti was a lot The silver sausage looked good Pretty soon, we were camping. wave, television and air condition- ing camp chairs, warming our feet ceeding gust. We secured the mini- Petaluma: The colorful and Santa Barbara: Santa Barbara on a record player. The Integra-
more comfortable than many vehi- photographed against the great This is camping? Sort of. ing had we been able to plug it in. by the fire, and watched the stars blinds so they wouldn’t rattle but quirky French-inspired Metro Autocamp, one of the first trailor has a queen bed, sink, heat
cles she has been forced to travel in slabs of stone and drew some ad- I had failed before leaving Los Outside, we had a fire pit, fold- At Ricardo, though, we were and satellites spin slowly over our kept the windows open to enjoy the Hotel has two Airstreams: a Airstream “hotels,” has five of the and air conditioning and an
or on — cars, trucks, motorcycles miring comments from other visi- Angeles to find a desert destina- ing camp chairs, the looming rock limited to battery power, but the in- heads. nighttime smells and sounds. 22-foot Bambi model (with silver, silvery trailers that have been “alien communication system.”
and sidecars — and because she tors as we left and continued north. tion that took online reservations formations and the promise of a cabin illumination rendered the The next morning, after a rest- By morning, a fine sheen of dust wood and red interior) and a refurbished with pillow-top mat- All guests share a bathroom. Info:
wasn’t driving. We left the highway again just and offered sites big enough to ac- canopy of brilliant stars. strap-on miners’ lights I’d brought ful sleep and a light breakfast, we covered every surface. 28-foot International (silver with tresses and down comforters on (310) 584-1086, hicksville.com
I was, and my state of mind was north of Lancaster and drove west commodate our metal missile. Af- Inside, the Airstream offered a almost unnecessary. left the Airstream in its parking The day promised warmer tem- fuchsia carpeting). Each comes the beds, free Wi-Fi and outdoor /joshuatree/motel. From $75 a
somewhere between guardedly op- toward Gorman in search of pop- ter extensive Web browsing, I had sumptuous bed and a dining room spot and drove off in the Infiniti to peratures and stronger winds. We with a flat-screen TV, a refrigera- decks with electric barbecues. night.
timistic and terrified. I had never pies. We had been told that the set my sights on Red Rock Canyon table that could seat four comfort- Into the desert visit a pair of ghost towns. set out early, finding the trailer eas- tor, a stove, a microwave and a Guests can use free bikes for rides
pulled a trailer that long or that flowers at the Antelope Valley Cali- State Park’s Ricardo Camp- ably as long as two of the four were As cozy as we were in our sleek Garlock proved to be a ghost of ier to reconnect to the SUV than French press coffee maker. Info: to Stearns Wharf and East Beach. Borrego Springs: Palm Canyon
heavy nor one that would cost fornia Poppy Preserve weren’t ground, but I was concerned we children. (It could also convert into satellite, we hadn’t come to the Mo- a ghost town, with only California expected, and hit California 14 508 Petaluma Blvd. South, Pet- Info: 2717 De la Vina St., Santa Hotel & RV Resort, in Anza-
quite so much to replace. (This really popping but that we could would find no vacancies by the a bed for one short adult or two jave to remain indoors. So we un- Historical Landmark No. 671 shortly after breakfast. aluma; (707) 773-4900, www Barbara; (888) 405-7553, www Borrego Desert State Park, has
particular unit retails for $52,900.) find fields of them west of there, time we arrived in late afternoon, small children.) hitched the Airstream and set out standing as testament to the gold After another stop at Sister Sis- .metrolodging.com. From $149 a .lat.ms/SBautocamp. From $174 a four Airstreams: Life’s a Trip,
But the big Infiniti felt sure- along California 138. too late, I thought, to claim one of The two-burner stove, fired by in search of adventure. mining activity here in the late ter, we were rolling back through night. night. Shelley, Baby Blues and Moon
footed and stable, and a previously So we did, not the resplendent the 50 camping spots. twin tanks of propane, warmed the We found some, hiking along 1890s. Lancaster. More confident behind Walker. All have small kitchens,
posted high wind advisory for the carpet of gold that would appear I needn’t have worried. Half the grub we brought from home. The the Scenic Cliffs and Black Rock But nearby Randsburg was a the wheel, I wished we could roll on Watsonville: The Santa Cruz/ Ojai: The funky but cool Caravan private patios and outdoor grills;
desert had been lifted. there soon but a mansion’s worth sites were open. We chose one, set refrigerator, also powered by trails across California 14 from Ri- living ghost town that offered and add a few Joshua Tree days to Monterey Bay KOA campground Outpost has 11 Airstreams, two have their own small bath-
As we rolled up California 14 of fine area rugs of purple and yel- against the hills, that had an east- propane, put a chill on Julie’s white cardo Campground, where for two much more to see and sample. Sev- our Airstream adventure. rents six Airstreams with queen mostly from the 2000s, but one rooms. Info: 221 Palm Canyon
through thinning traffic, I was in- low blooms. I took Julie’s picture. ern view and wouldn’t require me wine and my Perrier. hours we marveled at the strange eral Western-themed antique Next time. beds, mini kitchens and full baths named Sam is a “1959 Land Drive, Borrego Springs; (800)
creasingly confident that the She took mine. She looked great. to perform any backing maneuvers The full-size shower delivered a sandy monuments carved by wind, stores and galleries were open, as with showers. The couches and Yacht.” All have air-conditioning, 242-0044, www.lat.ms/palm
Airstream would not end up in a Back in the Infiniti, we stopped to get in or out. torrent of delightful hot water. The water and time. were the town watering hole, the [email protected] dinettes can be converted into Wi-Fi and colorfully patterned canyon. From $119 a night. Closed
ditch. in Rosamond at the lip of the Moja- We paid the rangers $50 for two propane-powered furnace would Signs reminded us to watch for Joint, and two popular lunch and Twitter: @misterfleming twin beds. Info: 1186 San Andreas pillows and throws that brighten June 1-Sept. 15.