ST JOHNS SENIOR SECONDARY SCHOOL

ROORKEE

PROJECT REPORT ON PERFUME

SESSION 2017-2018

SUBMITTED TO SUBMITTED BY
Mrs. Rosina Siddiqui
 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
I WISH THANK TO MY TEACHERS MEMBERS OF STAFF WHO GUIDED ME AND BESCAUSE OF THEIR
EFFORT MY PROJECT IS SUCCEESFUL.MY SPECIAL THANKS TO
FOR MY PROJECT SUPERVISION AND SUBJECT TEACHER. WHO HELPED ME AT VARIOUS STAG ES
FOR THE SUCCESSFUL COMPLETION OF MY PROJECT.

MY SPECIAL THANKS TO THE HONORABLE PRINCIPAL

INTRODUCTION

DEFINATION

IMPORTANCE OF PERFUMES

TYPES OF PERFUMES
 INTRODUCTION
Perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents, used
to give the human body, animals, food, objects, and living-spaces an agreeable scent.[1] It is
usually in liquid form and used to give a pleasant scent to a person's body. Ancient texts and
archaeological excavations show the use of perfumes in some of the earliest human civilizations.
Modern perfumery began in the late 19th century with the commercial synthesis of aroma
compounds such as vanillin or coumarin, which allowed for the composition of perfumes with
smells previously unattainable solely from natural aromatics alone

The word perfume derives from the Latin perfumare, meaning "to smoke through". Perfumery, as
the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt, and was further refined by
the Romans and Persians.
The world's first-recorded chemist is considered a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker
mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia.[2] She distilled
flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics, then filtered and put them back in the still several
times.[3]
In the 9th century the Arab chemist Al-Kindi (Alkindus) wrote the Book of the Chemistry of
Perfume and Distillations, which contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves,
aromatic waters, and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107
methods and recipes for perfume-making and perfume-making equipment, such as
the alembic (which still bears its Arabic name.[7][8] [from Greek ἄμβιξ, "cup",
"beaker"][9][10] described by Synesius in the 4th century[11]).
The Persian chemist Ibn Sina (also known as Avicenna) introduced the process of extracting oils
from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first
experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes consisted of mixtures of oil and
crushed herbs or petals, which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and
immediately became popular. Both the raw ingredients and the distillation technology significantly
influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.
The art of perfumery was known in western Europe from 1221, taking into account the monks'
recipes of Santa Maria delle Vigne or Santa Maria Novella of Florence, Italy.[citation needed] In the east,
the Hungarians produced in 1370 a perfume made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution
– best known as Hungary Water – at the behest of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. The art of
perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century the personal perfumer
to Catherine de' Medici (1519–1589), Rene the Florentine (Renato il fiorentino), took Italian
refinements to France. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret
passageway, so that no formulae could be stolen en route. Thanks to Rene, France quickly
became one of the European centers of perfume and cosmetics manufacture. Cultivation of
flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major
industry in the south of France.
Between the 16th and 17th centuries, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body
odors resulting from infrequent bathing. Partly due to this patronage, the perfume industry
developed. In 1693, Italian barber Giovanni Paolo Feminis created a perfume water called Aqua
Admirabilis,[12] today best known as eau de cologne; his nephew Johann Maria Farina (Giovanni
Maria Farina) took over the business in 1732.[13][need quotation to verify]
By the 18th century the Grasse region of France, Sicily, and Calabria (in Italy) were growing
aromatic plants to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, Italy and
France remain the center of European perfume design and trade
DEFINATION
 Sources of perfumes
Plant sources[edit]

Citrus tree blossom

Plants have long been used in perfumery as a source of essential oils and aroma compounds.
These aromatics are usually secondary metabolitesproduced by plants as protection
against herbivores, infections, as well as to attract pollinators. Plants are by far the largest source
of fragrant compounds used in perfumery. The sources of these compounds may be derived
from various parts of a plant. A plant can offer more than one source of aromatics, for instance
the aerial portions and seeds of coriander have remarkably different odors from each
other. Orange leaves, blossoms, and fruit zest are the respective sources of petitgrain, neroli,
and orange oils.

Animal sources[

A musk pod. Extensive hunting of male musk deer for their pods in recent history has resulted in the
detriment of the species.

Ambergris

 Ambergris: Lumps of oxidized fatty compounds, whose precursors were secreted and
expelled by the sperm whale. Ambergris should not be confused with yellow amber, which is
used in jewelry. Because the harvesting of ambergris involves no harm to its animal source,
it remains one of the few animalic fragrancing agents around which little controversy now
exists.
 Castoreum: Obtained from the odorous sacs of the North American beaver.
 Civet: Also called civet musk, this is obtained from the odorous sacs of the civets, animals in
the family Viverridae, related to the mongoose. World Animal Protection investigated African
civets caught for this purpose.[25]
 Hyraceum: Commonly known as "Africa stone", is the petrified excrement of the rock
hyrax.[26]
 Honeycomb: From the honeycomb of the honeybee. Both beeswax and honey can be
solvent extracted to produce an absolute. Beeswax is extracted with ethanol and the ethanol
evaporated to produce beeswax absolute.
 Musk: Originally derived from a gland (sac or pod) located between the genitals and the
umbilicus of the Himalayan male musk deerMoschus moschiferus, it has now mainly been
replaced by the use of synthetic musks sometimes known as "white musk

Synthetic sources[edit]
Main article: Aroma compound
Many modern perfumes contain synthesized odorants. Synthetics can provide fragrances which
are not found in nature. For instance, Calone, a compound of synthetic origin, imparts a fresh
ozonous metallic marine scent that is widely used in contemporary perfumes. Synthetic
aromatics are often used as an alternate source of compounds that are not easily obtained from
natural sources. For example, linalool and coumarin are both naturally occurring compounds that
can be inexpensively synthesized from terpenes. Orchid scents (typically salicylates) are usually
not obtained directly from the plant itself but are instead synthetically created to match the
fragrant compounds found in various orchids.
One of the most commonly used classes of synthetic aromatics by far are the white musks.
These materials are found in all forms of commercial perfumes as a neutral background to the
middle notes. These musks are added in large quantities to laundry detergents in order to give
washed clothes a lasting "clean" scent
 IMPORTANCE OF PERFUMES

The conventional application of pure perfume (parfum extrait) in Western cultures is at pulse
points, such as behind the ears, the nape of the neck, and the insides of wrists, elbows and
knees, so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and release fragrance continuously.
According to perfumer Sophia Grojsman behind the knees is the ideal point to apply perfume in
order that the scent may rise.[16] The modern perfume industry encourages the practice of
layering fragrance so that it is released in different intensities depending upon the time of the
day. Lightly scented products such as bath oil, shower gel, and body lotion are recommended for
the morning; eau de toilette is suggested for the afternoon; and perfume applied to the pulse
points for evening.[17] Cologne fragrance is released rapidly, lasting around 2 hours. Eau de
toilette lasts from 2 to 4 hours, while perfume may last up to six hours.[18]
A variety of factors can influence how fragrance interacts with the wearer's own physiology and
affect the perception of the fragrance. Diet is one factor, as eating spicy and fatty foods can
increase the intensity of a fragrance.[19] The use of medications can also impact the character of a
fragrance.[19] The relative dryness of the wearer's skin is important, since dry skin will not hold
fragrance as long as skin with more oil
TYPES OF PERFUMES
 MANUFACTURE OF PERFUMES

Basic framework[edit]
Perfume oils usually contain tens to hundreds of ingredients and these are typically organized in
a perfume for the specific role they will play. These ingredients can be roughly grouped into four
groups:

 Primary scents (Heart): Can consist of one or a few main ingredients for a certain concept,
such as "rose". Alternatively, multiple ingredients can be used together to create an
"abstract" primary scent that does not bear a resemblance to a natural ingredient. For
instance, jasmine and rose scents are commonly blends for abstract floral
fragrances. Cola flavourant is a good example of an abstract primary scent.
 Modifiers: These ingredients alter the primary scent to give the perfume a certain desired
character: for instance, fruit esters may be included in a floral primary to create a fruity
floral; calone and citrus scents can be added to create a "fresher" floral. The cherry scent in
cherry cola can be considered a modifier.
 Blenders: A large group of ingredients that smooth out the transitions of a perfume between
different "layers" or bases. These themselves can be used as a major component of the
primary scent. Common blending ingredients include linalool and hydroxycitronellal.
 Fixatives: Used to support the primary scent by bolstering it. Many resins, wood scents, and
amber bases are used as fixatives.
The top, middle, and base notes of a fragrance may have separate primary scents and
supporting ingredients. The perfume's fragrance oils are then blended with ethyl alcohol and
water, aged in tanks for several weeks and filtered through processing equipment to,
respectively, allow the perfume ingredients in the mixture to stabilize and to remove any
sediment and particles before the solution can be filled into the perfume bottles.[31]
Fragrance bases[edit]

A "perfume organ", where perfumers play around with hundreds of essences, in Grasse

Instead of building a perfume from "ground up", many modern perfumes and colognes are made
using fragrance bases or simply bases. Each base is essentially modular perfume that is
blended from essential oils and aromatic chemicals, and formulated with a simple concept such
as "fresh cut grass" or "juicy sour apple". Many of Guerlain's Aqua Allegoria line, with their simple
fragrance concepts, are good examples of what perfume fragrance bases are like.
The effort used in developing bases by fragrance companies or individual perfumers may equal
that of a marketed perfume, since they are useful in that they are reusable. On top of its
reusability, the benefit in using bases for construction are quite numerous:

1. Ingredients with "difficult" or "overpowering" scents that are tailored into a blended base
may be more easily incorporated into a work of perfume
2. A base may be better scent approximations of a certain thing than the extract of the thing
itself. For example, a base made to embody the scent for "fresh dewy rose" might be a
better approximation for the scent concept of a rose after rain than plain rose oil. Flowers
whose scents cannot be extracted, such as gardenia or hyacinth, are composed as
bases from data derived from headspace technology.
3. A perfumer can quickly rough out a concept from a brief by combining multiple bases,
then present it for feedback. Smoothing out the "edges" of the perfume can be done after
a positive response.

Reverse engineering[edit]
Creating perfumes through reverse engineering with analytical techniques such as Gas
chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC/MS) can reveal the "general" formula for any particular
perfume. The difficulty of GC/MS analysis arises due to the complexity of a perfume's
ingredients. This is particularly due to the presence of natural essential oils and other ingredients
consisting of complex chemical mixtures. However, "anyone armed with good GC/MS equipment
and experienced in using this equipment can today, within days, find out a great deal about the
formulation of any perfume... customers and competitors can analyze most perfumes more or
less precisely."[32]
Antique or badly preserved perfumes undergoing this analysis can also be difficult due to the
numerous degradation by-products and impurities that may have resulted from breakdown of the
odorous compounds. Ingredients and compounds can usually be ruled out or identified using gas
chromatograph (GC) smellers, which allow individual chemical components to be identified both
through their physical properties and their scent. Reverse engineering of best-selling perfumes in
the market is a very common practice in the fragrance industry due to the relative simplicity of
operating GC equipment, the pressure to produce marketable fragrances, and the highly
lucrative nature of the perfume marke
IN THE END
BIBLIOGRAPHY