Berlin

Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels
Berlin
December 2016 - January 2017
Glhwein time
Enjoy Berlins Christmas markets
Berlins sports teams
Eisbren ice hockey & more
inyourpocket.com
N84 - 1.75
Gerhard Richter, Betty (Edition 23/25), 1991, Offsetdruck auf Karton, 97,1 x 66,2 cm
Sammlung Olbricht Atelier Gerhard Richter
Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele
Wednesday to Monday 10 AM 7 PM
closed Tuesdays
Open on public holidays
closed on 24/12 und 31/12
#ErinnerungenEinerNation
#MemoriesOfaNation
www.gropiusbau.de
Contents
Transport
Getting around by S&U
Basics
Essential travel tips
Sports in Berlin
All about Berlins top teams
Christmas in Berlin 10
Glhwein and Christmas markets
Galleries & Exhibitions 11

Art special
Culture & Events 12
Benkrut | Dreamstime.com
Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema
Berlin Charlottenburg & The West
Berlin Mitte
Genteel western Berlin
20
The delights of the city centre
Berlin Friedrichshain
32
41
Workers paradise, students playground
SYMBOL KEY
Berlin Prenzlauer Berg
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
Berlin Kreuzberg
V Home delivery
E Live music
Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters
N No credit cards
M Nearest S/U-Bahn station
B Outside seating
G Non-smoking room
S Take away
R Internet
W Wi-Fi
Additional symbols for hotels
City Tours
57
Wellness
59
Spas and Swimming pools
A Credit cards accepted
Directory & Street register
L Guarded parking
H Conference facilities
Maps & Index
F Fitness centre
K Restaurant
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
City map
Public transport map
Index
Expensive; more than 30 per person.

Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
48
Guided walks, bike rides and drives
P Air conditioning
Dinner price guide

The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine.
44
The gentrified north
60
61-63
64-65
66
BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide youll find boxes with
more information about these topics:
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival
6
37
Foreword
The air may be frosty, Berlins wintertime attractions are
hotter than ever. The city has been attracting increasing
numbers of visitors to its many Christmas markets,
New Years events, concerts, shopping and exhibitions.
Theres truly something for everyone on a trip to the
German capital; this season dont miss the excellent
German history exhibition at the Gropius-Bau, the new
shows at the Admiralspalast or a dip into one of the
steamy spas!
Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
[email protected]
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG0079.11.
Whatever you do this winter, stay toasty warm and

remember to let us know your tips and comments at
[email protected]. Enjoy Berlin.
Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Cover Totalpics | Dreamstime.com
Get the In Your Pocket

City Essentials App
Sales & Circulation

General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krger,
CoCoMedia ([email protected])
COVER STORY
Berlins landmark monument,
built by Carl Langhans in
1792, is the last remaining
of 14 original city gates.
While hordes of tourists
gape below, goddess of
victory Nike drives the fourhorsepower chariot atop the
gate. Berliners celebrated the
Walls fall in 1989 by standing
on it in front of the gate, so dont miss it - see more
on p.26.
Copyright notice & Editors note

Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
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4 Berlin In Your Pocket
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Transport
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great
empty vastness of northeast Germany, its very well
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had
such good public transport.
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,70, ABC 3,30)
you can travel one-way for up to two hours with unlimited
transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once (Vier-FahrtenKarte, 9). Buy a 1,70 Kurzstrecke (short distance) ticket if
you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn stops, or up to six
stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate a lot of travelling, get
the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid until 03:00 the next morning;
7,00) or the seven-day pass (30,00). Groups of up to five
people are best off with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day
ticket, 17,30). The multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (19,5042,00) is valid for transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket youll
be fined 60 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses
and trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at
www.bvg.de/en/Service.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, [email protected],
www.bvg.de/en.
TAXIS
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same
day and night; flagfall plus the first kilometre is 3,40; then up
to 7km its 1,79/km, thereafter 1,28/km. Waiting costs 25/
hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke

tarriff; 4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
WRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
www.wuerfelfunk.de.
CYCLING
As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. Its a flat city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
fined, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
may take a while, though for 1,60 you can take your bike
on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
places, most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike
trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-traffic and
cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.
CITY CARDS
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one
museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
and youths may get better reductions at museums
using their student ID cards.
BERLIN WELCOMECARD
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 19,50, ABC 21,50), 72 hours (27,50/29,50),
and 4 (31,50/34,50), 5 (35,50/40,50) or 6 days
(41,50/45,50). Theres also a 72-hour variety (42/44)
that includes free admission to the five Museumsinsel
museums. Cards are sold online and from BVG ticket
machines, tourist offices, S-Bahn offices, hotels and kiosks.
The similar Berlin CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.com)
is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club discounts
geared towards younger travellers; a 48-hour ticket costs
17,50 for AB, 19,50 for ABC, and there are also 72 hours,
4, 5, and 6-day tickets.Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
Its for sale at the museums, tourism offices and online.
Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
Basics
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers
CRIME & SAFETY

Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty
crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlins touristed central areas.
ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.
ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
MONEY
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange offices can be found at the major train stations.
VISAS AND ENTRY

FORMALITIES
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Brgeramt office is officially required for stays
more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that theres no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European Schengen countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.
CLIMATE
30
80
25
70
60
20
50
15
40
10
30
5
0
Rainfall (mm)
Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only really palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caffeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).
Temperature C
DRINKS & ALCOHOL
20
Jan
Feb Mar Apr May Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov Dec
-5
10
0
Rainfall (mm)
Min Temp (C)
Max Temp (C)
Berlin Districts
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, youre still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often find everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and effective though, and youll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.
MITTE (MI)
Since reunification, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and off the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. Its on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery
to sidewalk caf, pointing out directions to tourists seeking
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass
deportations of the Nazi era.
CHARLOTTENBURG (CB)
If downtown to you means wide, traffic-filled streets,
crowds of shoppers, five-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Charlottenburg comes closest to fitting the bill in Berlin. Much
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufrstendamm,
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting
becomes more genteel where you cant see the buildings for
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.
TIERGARTEN (TG)
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare
park that began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with
landscaping in the 1800s. Traffic passes through it, doing a
dosey-doe around the Siegessule (Victory Column). Slicing
though the parks length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.
KREUZBERG (KB)
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies,
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-off
dreamstime.com
room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it

was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzbergs way of reliving its 15 minutes
of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
at the mens clubs, caf-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
the staid parts of the district.
PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)

On a low hill northeast of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an old
working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
Prenzlauer Bergs few attractions include the Vitra Design
museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
breakfast all day.
FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
Friedrichshain (FH), filled with creatively tattered and
tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
Zehlendorf (ZD).
Sports in Berlin
Eisbren Berlin
City Press GmbH
Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports

- the city has no less than six professional sports teams,
playing five exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and
FC Union play football, the Eisbren is an ace ice hockey
team, Alba is Berlins renowned basketball club, the
Fchse play handball, and volleyball is taken care of by
the BR Volleys. Their home matches attract huge numbers
of visitors to Berlins stadiums; last season alone 2,4
million tickets were sold for their events. In addition to
this, Berlins streets regularly host huge sports events such
as the public viewing festivals during major sports events
abroad, and the city also hosts countless amateur sports
matches.
Despite being rivals, Berlins six professional sports
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins image as an international
sports event destination.
ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)
Also known as the Albatrosse,
Berlins basketball club is Germanys most successful, and
has the largest fanbase; home
matches easily attract 10,000
spectators. Since going pro in
1991, Alba has won the German League 8 times and the
German Cup 7 times, and was also the first German
team to win an international title. Alba started the
new season well with its young new Turkish coach
Ahmet Caki, several newcomers and captain Dragan
Milosavljevic.
11 Dec, 15:30 : Eisbren Bremerhaven
26 Dec, 15:30: Rasta Vechta
29 Dec, 18:00: EWE Baskets Oldenburg
22 Dec, 15:30: Basketball Lwen Braunschweig
29 Dec, 15:30: Gieen 46ers
QI4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets 8-65.
The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy

to visit: you dont need to understand German to be
able to follow a match and unlike in other European
countries, sports matches in Germany are quite
peaceful events, meaning its no problem to bring
the whole family to the stadium for an afternoon or
evening of fun. Finding out about which matches are
playing where can be problematic for visitors however
as the club websites are not all available in English, and
some make it difficult to find the upcoming playing
dates. In the club details here we have listed all home
matches for the following months, though always keep
an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
matches.
Berlins official English-language sports website
www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about
all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site
www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
Enjoy cheering for Berlin!
Eisbren Berlin
Berliners are rightly proud of their professional icehockey team, Eisbren Berlin, or polar bears. Founded
in 1953 it was already very succesful in the GDR before
winning the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga no less
than 7 times since 1990, more than any other team.
Although the team is refinding its strength, hopes are
high for the German League though and theyre the
easiest Berlin team to see this season, with plenty of
home matches.
BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlins professional volleyball team originates
in the western district
of Charlottenburg, but
plays home matches at
the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR
Volleys have been particularly successful since the late
1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title five times.
The unbeatable team won everything they could last
season and have already started the new season with
some stellar performances.
3 Dec, 18:30: United Volleys RheinMain
6 Dec, 19:30: Cucine Lube Civitanova
18 Dec, 14:30: VfB Friedrichshafen
8 Jan, 16:00: TV Ingersoll Bhl
22 Jan, 16:00: Netzhoppers KW
29 Jan, TBA: VfB Friedrichshafen
QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
Prenzlauer Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12,
www.berlin-recycling-volleys.de. Tickets 13-16.
Sports in Berlin
EISBREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)
Originating in 1953 in East
Germanys Dynamo sports
club, the polar bears are Berlins
popular professional ice hockey
team. They won the national
league 7 times, have also bagged
the European Trophy. Their
home matches at the MercedesBenz-Arena are true familyfests, with a festive, goodhumoured atmosphere. Striker Marcel Noebel is still
in rehab but back on his skates again after tearing his
knee ligaments, and as promised, Kyle Wilson brings
his experience to the team, though Canadian Nicholas
Petersen is the top scorer at the moment.
4 Dec, 16:45: Fischtown Pinguins Bremerhaven
9 Dec, 19:30: Grizzlys Wolfsburg
18 Dec, 19:00:Thomas Sabo Ice Tigers
23 Dec, 19:30: Grizzlys Wolfsburg
28 Dec, 19:30: Krefeld Pinguine
3 Jan, 19:30: Augsburger Panther
6 Jan, 19:30: Klner Haie
20 Jan, 19:30: Adler Mannheim
24 Jan, 19:30: Dsseldorfer EG
27 Jan, 19:30: EHC Red Bull Mnchen
31 Jan, 19:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings
QI4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets 14-45.
FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)

The foxes, Berlins
handball team, is part
of an old West Berlin
sports club, and now
plays home matches
in Prenzlauer Bergs
Max-Schmeling-Halle,
named after the boxing
legend who was world
champion heavyweight
between
1930-32.
While winning the European Cup at home, the team
had a great chance to integrate their new players Steffen Fth and Kresimir Kozina. So far this season, the
team around goalie Silvio Heinevetter are in 4th place.
7 Dec, 20:15: MT Melsungen
11 Dec, 15:00: TBV Lemgo
21 Dec, 19:00: Frisch Auf Gppingen
26 Dec, 15:00: HSC Coburg
QG1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel.
+49 30 44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets
12-50.
HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)
FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)
Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), FC Union is the

working mans football team for Berlin, originating in
East Berlin in 1966 and a feared counterpart for the
GDRs state-influenced Dynamo club. Union is still
fiercely independent, based in their charming An
der Alten Frsterei stadium. The club has resisted all
commercialism, with a club anthem sung by punkrock
legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium partly owned by
passionate fans.
5 Dec, 20:15: TSV Eintracht Braunschweig
16 Dec, 18:30: SpVgg Greuther Frth
27 Jan 18.30: VfL Bochum
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Frsterei), Kpenick, MS Kpenick, tel. +49 30 656
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets 14-43.
Berlins main football team plays home matches at

the impressive Olympiastadion, Germanys second
largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games
and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was
founded back in 1892 and is know as the Alte Dame,
the old lady, witnessing its glory years between 1926
and 1931. Hertha started off very well this season, with
plenty of substitution options for coach Pal Dardai,
though the team is very reliant on striker Vedad
Ibisevic; we hope he stays in shape!
10 Dec, 18:30: SV Werder Bremen
21 Dec, 20:00: SV Darmstadt 98
QOlympischer Platz 3 (Olympiastadion),
Charlottenburg, MS Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets 15-89.
All the latest news

Christmas in Berlin
CHRISTMAS GARDEN
Christmas Eco-market on Sophienstrasse
Berlins many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmrkte)

bustle with both tourists and locals. Theres music, food,
drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets offer mainly
handicrafts and decorations such as the popular wooden
trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains.
Berlin has about 60 Christmas markets for you to enjoy.
The most picturesque ones are on Gendarmenmarkt (21
Nov - 31 Dec, open 11:00-22:00, 24 Dec until 18:00, New
Years Eve until 19:00, admission 1), the Nostalgischer
Weihnachtsmarkt am Opernpalais off Unter den Linden
(see below) and more to the west - the atmospheric
market in Spandaus old town (23 Nov - 23 Dec, Sun-Thu
11:00-20:00, Fri & Sat 11:00-22:00. Theres a huge winter
world at Potsdamer Platz (market 21 Nov - 26 December,
open 10:00-22:00, 24 Dec until 14:00, winterworld
21st Environment and

Christmas Market
Sophienstrae 2016
Sophisticated items at a
magical illuminated Christmas
fair near the gallery quarter
Access fro
m
Rosentha
ler Strae
or
through H
ackesche
Hfe, (Hof
VI)
In 2013, Londons famous Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew

started lighting up the greenhouses and plants at night
around Christmas, enchanting thousands of visitors. This
year, as an alternative to the crowded Christmas markets,
Berlins grand Botanischer Garten will also be open every
night from 17 November to 1 January, treating visitors
to a spectacular winters walk through wonderfully lit
foliage and greenhouses. The 1,5km-long route winds its
way inside and outside, past millions of lightpoints and
hundreds of illuminations and 3D figures themed after
Christmas and botany.
CHRISTMAS GARDEN BERLIN, Botanischer Garten,
Knigin-Luise-Strae 6-8, S Botanischer Garten.
17 Nov - 1 Jan 17:00 - 23:00, closed 24 & 31 Dec.
Admission 17-19, www.christmas-garden.de.
attractions open until 1 January), and the lovely traditional
Rixdorf market in Neuklln (Richardplatz, 2-4 Dec, Fri
17:00-21:00, Sat 14:00-21:00, and Sun 14:00-20:00).
CHRISTMAS ECO-MARKET SOPHIENSTRASSE
In Mittes designer and gallery district, theeco-friendlyChristmas
market takes place on Sophienstrasse, one of Berlins most
beautiful streets. Stands sell all manner of useful, eco-friendly
and unusual Christmas gifts, of German or fair-trade origin.
The market is kept stylish and low-key, and a limited but fine
selection of food stands offers crepes, organic Bratwurst, raclette
and Glhwein. Theres live music, performers, angels, and
Santa drops by every day for the children.QSophienstrae,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, www.weihnachtsmarktsophienstrasse.de. Open 2016: 26-27 Nov & 3-4, 10-11, 17-18
Dec; Sat 12:00-20:00, Sun 11:00-19:00. Admission free.
NOSTALGIC CHRISTMAS MARKET
This year, the charming Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt
takes place near Bebelplatz in Berlins historical centre,
around the domed St. Hedwigs-Kathedrale. This popular
market has 150 stands with gifts, and artisans at work.
Traditional food and drinks are available, and children can
enjoy special punch and the Christmas crib with live animals.
QBebelplatz, Mitte, www.berliner-weihnacht.de.
24 Nov - 27 Dec 2016. Open 12:00-21:30, 24 Dec closed.
Admission free.
HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES
On the ds
en
4 week ent
of Adv
020:00
Sat 12:0 19:00
0
Sun 11:0
www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de
Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays

(from 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain
open till late at night on weekdays. Museums are
largely open during the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof
tourist office is open daily during the holidays, but may
close earlier on the 24th. Public transport operates as
on Sundays on 25 Dec and 1 Jan, and has extra services
running throughout the night on New Years Eve.
Galleries & Exhibitions
Graffiti on Berlins East Side Gallery
Berlins museum and gallery world is constantly in flux, and

perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are
closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the
decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with
artists fleeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space
in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural
nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few
of Berlins many excellent galleries and exhibitions.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
This museum for modern art, photography, architecture,
and artist archives concentrates a century worth of
creativity forged in Berlin between 1880 and 1980.
Artists represent the Secession, Expressionist, Dada, New
Objectivity movements, and those representing the divided
city. Giants of German art include Heinrich Zille, Otto Dix,
George Grosz, Hannah Hch and Wolf Vostell.QG4, Alte
Jakobstrae 124-128, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor,
tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00, www.berlinischegalerie.de.
C/O BERLIN
Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current exhibitions of
protest photos by Gordon Parks and conflict photography
by Broomberg & Chanarin are well worth seeing.
QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62,
www.co-berlin.org.
SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN

Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects
using old techniques, especially the wetplate method
which was invented in 1851 and was the first time photos
could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery
and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos,
and have one made.
QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49
152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
SAMMLUNG BOROS
A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
live on top of the absurd structure. Its full of wonderful
contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly filling up a
room. Tours only, book well in advance.
QReinhardstrae 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
www.sammlung-boros.de.
KNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES
A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been
transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann Knig,
the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for
though-provoking art.
QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstrae 118-121, tel. +49 30 26
10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de.
11
Culture & Events

VENUE LIST BERLIN
CT COLUMBIA THEATER, Columbiadamm 9-11,
tel. +49 30 69 81 75 84, www.columbia-theater.de.
FP FRIEDRICHSTADTPALAST,
Friedrichstrae 107, tel. +49 30 23262326,
www.friedrichstadtpalast.de.
HB HAMBURGER BAHNHOF MUSEUM,
Invalidenstrae 50-51, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11,
www.hamburgerbahnhof.de.
HN HEIMATHAFEN NEUKLLN, Karl-MarxStrae 141, tel. +49 30 56 82 13 33,
www.heimathafen-neukoelln.de.
MA MERCEDES-BENZ ARENA, Mercedes-Platz
1, tel. +49 30 20 60 70 88 99,
www.mercedes-benz-arena-berlin.de
MG MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU,
Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60,
www.gropiusbau.de.
MK MUSEUM FR KOMMUNIKATION,
Leipziger Strae 16, tel. +49 30 20 29 40,
www.museumsstiftung.de.
PH PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.
EVENT TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket offices (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres

and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets
- and an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of
matches played year-round.
OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC

DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
West Berlins 2000-seat opera building with its
excellent acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical
performances. Originally opened in 1912 as the modern,
democratic counterpart to the royal opera house on
Unter den Linden, it has a reputation for modern works
and underrepresented composers. Donald Runnicles
is the principal conductor.QB3, Bismarckstrae 35,
Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38
43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de/en_EN. Tickets from
16.
KOMISCHE OPER
Starting off as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
buildings monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF3,
Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets 9-150.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Franzsischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.de.
Tickets 10-99.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49 30
20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets 14-220.
SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s. Hitler
cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private box so
that he could watch his favourite operetta The Merry Widow,
and Brecht tried out his new theatre here from the 1950s. With
several theatres, it now puts on plays, concerts and musicals.
QF3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de. Shows
Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets 21-79.
Culture & Events

ASK THE CONCIERGE
S U I TA B L E F O R I N T E R N AT I O N A L V I S I T O R S
Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there

to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
of their jackets.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU:
GERMANY - MEMORIES OF
A NATION
600 years of German history in 200 objects, beginning
and ending in Wall-year 1989. Perhaps only the British
can come up with such a simple and effective concept,
and indeed the exhibition The British View: Germany
- Memories of a Nation was a huge success when it
opened in Londons British Museum, accompanied
by the amazing book and podcasts by initiator Neil
MacGregor.
The objects illustrating the momories of the newly
unified Germany tell stories of great German
achievements from a British perspective, of printing
and porcelain, of philosophers, poets and artists,
and of historical events that have shaped the face of
Germany today, including that most terrible memory
of all, the Holocaust. Ernst Barlachs impressive
1926 floating bronze sculpture is an amazing WW1
memorial, the recreated Buchenwald concentration
camp gate symbolises Germanys darkest years while
Georg Baselitzs 1977 Eagle etching reflects on the
fragility of ideals.
80S HITS & ACROBATICS

The eighties were a glitzy time.
The new Wintergarten Show combines
outstanding acrobatics with the
soundtrack of a whole generation
backed by a passionate live band and
grandiose singers.
Relax please do it!
Till 19 February 2017

Tickets from 32,00*
Stiftung Schleswig-Holsteinische Landesmuseen Schloss Gottorf
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU, Niederkirchnerstr. 7,
Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, S/U Potsdamer Platz,
www.gropiusbau.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Tues closed.
Potsdamer Strae 96 D-10785 Berlin

Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433
www.wintergarten-berlin.de
*Prices plus advance booking fee and 2,00 system fee/ticket
13
Culture & Events

CINEMAS
Foreign film offerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled
films; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU
(original version with German/English subtitles) and
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.
ADRIA
The film Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
QSchlostrae 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
+49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets 7,40-9,40.
Whats going on?

BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually and
musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as it has little
spoken German, and now has been thoroughly revamped,
with many new sketches and elements.QE4, Marlene
Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49
1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue - Fri 20:00;
Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets from 59,90.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s filmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed films. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
films accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG2, RosaLuxemburg-Strae 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets 7.
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF3, Friedrichstrae 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets 18-106.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house films and mini film fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruffy
courtyard.QG2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte,
MS Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73,
www.kino-central.de. Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50.
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin,
the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening
in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before
the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then its over to
the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.
QE3, Groe Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag,
tel. +49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de.
Shows 20:00, Sun 19:00. Mon closed. Tickets 20-55.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL

CineStar IMAX has blockbuster films and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germanys widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE4, Potsdamer Strae 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets 6-13.
HACKESCHE HFE
Mainly shows foreign films in their original language.
QG2, Rosenthaler Strae 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt,tel.+49302834603,www.hackesche-hoefe.org.
Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
WINTERGARTEN VARIT
One of Berlins famed variety theatres was revived here
as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, youll enjoy a
show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets 37,20-70,20.
KINO IN DER KULTURBRAUEREI

The multi-screen cinema in the beautiful KulturBrauerei
complex screens films in original language every
Monday.QG2, Schnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, www.cinestar.de.
FILM FESTIVALS
SPUTNIK
Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie films, many
in English, and sometimes very long ones. In a back
courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a bit dicey
working your way to the theater, but its safe, small, and
friendly. Bricks make up part of the furniture.QG5,
Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU Sdstern, tel. +49
30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.com. Tickets 5-6,5.
Film festivals in December 2016 - January 2017:

30 Nov 7 Dec: French Filmweek, various venues,
www.franzoesische-filmwoche.de
8-14 Dec: Cinema! Italia!, Babylon Mitte & Bali Kino,
www.cinema-italia.net
12-18 25 Jan: British Shorts, various cinemas,
www.britishshorts.de
Apart from the huge Berlinale film festival in February,

Berlin has over 40 smaller international film festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
Culture & Events

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE
RONCALLI & ABBA
Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres

lots of great theatre, but most of it is German-language;
its getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some
theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
showsbySashaWaltz,perhapsthebestchoreographeraround.
The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance company.
Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.de),
available at the venues, lists all dance events.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not,
come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the
little black boxs stage.QF5, Fidicinstrae 40, Kreuzberg,
MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets 14-18.
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
every month: Kim Eustace on the first Tuesday, and the
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaies show How to become
a Berliner in one hour.QG2, Schnhauser Allee 184,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets 5-16.
Shows Tue-Sun.
QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB
Quatsch is the delicious German word for nonsense,
and theres plenty of it in the shows held in the
Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German,
but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage Strictly Stand Up nights. Drinks and snacks like
nachos and hot dogs are available.QF3, Friedrichstr.
107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets 25-35.
Shows Thu-Sun.
From 16 December till 2 January at the Tempodrom

the spectacular Roncalli winter circus has clowns,
acrobats, tightrope walkers on bikes performing their
acts and tricks in a magically lit setting... traditionally
ending with the audience invited for a walz party! Its
the sound of the 1970s and 19080s that dominate the
Tempodrom on 26 Januari, when Abbamania hits the
stage. The worlds largest
Abba tribute show arrives
for a night of unmissable
golden classics. For more
information and tickets
see www.semmel.de.
EINE KOOPERATION DER RONCALLI ENTERTAINMENT GMBH

UND DER SEMMEL CONCERTS GMBH
13.
OR IGIN AL
12/16/2016
01/02/2017
TEMPODROM
CLASSICAL MUSIC
2 Dec, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Frank Peter
Zimmermann (violin)
Conductor: Alan Gilbert; Works by Adams, Bartk and
Tchaikovsky
5 Dec, 20:00
English Baroque Soloists, Monteverdi Choir
Conductor: John Eliot Gardiner; Works by Bach
PH
7 Dec, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Antoine
Tamestit (viola)
Conductor: Fabien Gabel; Works by Berlioz, Debussy,
Schmitt and Dukas
01/26/2017 TEMPODROM 8:00 PM

www.eventim.de
030 / 479 974 77
15
Culture & Events

8 Dec, 20:00
Kammerorchester Basel, Julia Lezhneva
(soprano)
Works by Hndel and Graun
PH
10 Dec, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Andreas Wittmann; Works by Beethoven and
Rossini
WINTER SEASON
AT THE DEUTSCHE OPER
La Bohme, 2015
Bettina St
Picture the scene of the Montmartre market square in

the Deutsche Opers grandiose, timeless production of
La Boheme: the four artist friends Schaunard, Marcello,
Colline and Rodolfo who has freshly fallen in love
with Mim - meet at the Caf Momus. The story wont
end well, because Mim has contracted tuberculosis,
and the hard, long winters in Paris last longer than the
money for firewood, food or medicine. Claude Debussy
praised Puccinis depiction of Paris in La Boheme,
and youre sure to be enchanted by the musical and
theatrical ambiance depicting the atmosphere of a
cold winter morning in the city.
La Boheme is an annual favourite of the Deutsche Oper
Berlin, as is Hansel & Gretel and The Barber of Sevilla.
This year these operas are joined by Tchaikovskys
Eugen Onegin and Verdis Aida. Escape Berlins cold
winter on a magical voyage to mediterranean Seville
or the Russia of the late 19th century... experience the
Aida production transforming the opera hall into a
stone mausoleum, or be enticed into the forest by the
witch in Hansel & Gretel.
Christmas means spending time together with the
family, and many Deutsche Oper performances are
family shows with 10 advance sale tickets available
for children and teenagers, for instance for Tosca on
10 December, for performances of Hansel & Gretel
on 18, 19, 23 December and 1 January, as well as for
La Boheme on 3 January, The Barber of Seville on 8
January and Nabucco on 14 January.
12 Dec, 20:00
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Smetana
PH
14 Dec, 20:00
Elena Bashkirova (piano)
Works by Liszt, Schumann, Tchaikovsky and Skrjabin
PH
14 Dec, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Ingo Metzmacher; Works by Stravinsky and
Bruckner
15-17 Dec, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Rudolf Buchbinder
(piano)
Conductor: Christian Thielemann; Works by Beethoven and
Bruckner
17 Dec, 20:00
European Vivaldi Players, Wiktor Kuzniecow
(violin)
Conductor: Stefan Bevier; Works by Vivaldi
PH
20-22 Dec, 20:00

Berliner Philharmoniker
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Wagner
PH
25 Dec, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Kim Barbier
(piano)
Conductor: Stanley Dodds; Works by Tchaikovsky,
Rachmaninov, Bottesini and Mendelssohn Bartholdy
26 Dec, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Igor Budinstein; Works by Hndel, Mercadante,
Mozart, de Falla, de Sarasate, Rodrigo and Ravel
26 Dec, 20:00
PH
Tschechische Kammerphilharmonie Prag, Martin
Kos (violin)
Conductor: Petr Chromck; Works by Vivaldi and Bach
29 & 30 Dec, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Daniil Trifonov (piano)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Kabalewsky,
Rachmaninov, Walton and Dvork
5 Jan, 20:00
PH
MAV Symphony Orchestra, Alexander Ghindin
(piano)
Conductor: David Sungjun Park; Works by Smetana,
Rachmaninov and Tchaikovsky
6 Jan, 20:00
Sir Andrs Schiff (piano)
Works by Bach, Bartk, Jancek and Schumann
PH
Christmas time at
Deutsche Oper Berlin
Culture & Events
EUGENE ONEGIN Tchaikovsky

12, 15, 20 December 2016
AIDA - Verdi
16, 21, 26 December 2016; 4 January 2017
HANSEL AND GRETEL Humperdinck
[special offer for families]
18, 19, 23 December 2016; 1 January 2017
LA BOHEME Puccini
25, 27 December 2016; 3, 6 January 2017
THE BARBER OF SEVILLE Rossini
31 December 2016; 8 January 2017
Aida Marcus Lieberenz
Tickets: +49 [30]-343 84 343

www.deutscheoperberlin.de
17
Culture & Events

9 Jan, 20:00
PH
Staatskapelle Berlin
Condcutor & piano: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart
and Bruckner
SLAVAS SNOW SHOW

& STOMP
13 Jan, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Renaud
Capuon (violin)
Conductor: Robin Ticciati; Works by Elgar, Grime and Schumann
14 Jan, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Viktoria Litsoukova
and Yukako Morikawa (piano)
Conductor: Christian Khler; Works by Bach, Beethoven and
Brahms

Andrea Lopez
Two outstanding touring shows visit the Admiralspalast

theatre this winter. From 3-8 January, be delighted by
Slavas Snowshow, a dream-like tale woven by Russian
master clown Slava Polunin and his colleague clowns.
Snow and ice play a major part of the stories, and the
audience is swept from fantasy to reality looking at the
antics on stage. The audience experiences a snowstorm,
helps weave a giant spider web and may get involved
in a water battle. From 24-29 January, the rocking
Stomp show has the audience bouncing along to the
wild and spectacular international percussion show. For
tickets and information see www.bb-promotion.com.
WINTERGARTEN: RELAX
17 Jan, 20:00
Sol Gabetta (violoncello) & Hlne Grimaud
(piano)
Works by Prt, Schumann, Debussy and Brahms
PH
19 & 20 Jan, 20:00

PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Sir Andrs Schiff (piano)
Conductor: Herbert Blomstedt; Works by Bartk and Brahms
22 Jan, 20:00
PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin
Conductor & piano: Lahav Shani; Works by Dukas,
Schostakowitsch and Strawinsky
29 Jan, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Baiba
Skride (violin)
Conductor: Santtu-Matias Rouvali; Works by Smetana,
Nielsen and Sibelius
CONCERTS
2 Dec, 20:00
Skorpions (Hardrock)
MA
4 Dec, 21:00
HN
Joan As Police Woman & Benjamin Lazar Davis
(Soul)

Klaus Schein
Its obvious that Germans love 1980s music more than

anyone else and until 19 February, the Wintergartens
show Relax combines dazzling acrobatics with great
singers and a live band playing the best feelgood hits
of the crazy 1980s by Roxette, Depeche Mode, David
Bowie and others. Its sure to evoke strong momories
of the days of CDs, MTV, Italo-disco, disco-funk, neon
colours and strange haircuts.
WINTERGARTEN VARITQPotsdamer Strae
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.
14 Dec, 20:00
Talib Kweli (Rap)
CT
19 Jan, 19:00
Green Day (Rock)
MA
30 Jan, 20:00
UB40 (Reggae)
FP
EXHIBITIONS
Until 9 January
MG
Pina Bausch and the Tanztheater
Pina Bausch (19402009) is recognised as a pioneer of
Culture & Events

modern dance theatre and as one of the most influential
choreographers of the twentieth century. This exhibition
focuses not only on the work in terms of staged
performances but above all on the very foundations of the
choreographers oeuvre, on her creative practice and on
the key aspects and people that have accompanied and
shaped her progress.
EXHIBITION:
GERMAN COLONIALISM
Until 26 February
MK
Golden Ratio
Youll find it in pineapples, in Da Vincis art, in the face of
Marilyn Monroe and in the architecture of Leipzigs Old
Town Hall. The golden ratio seems omnipresent, even in cat
photos or videos of a brawl in the Ukrainian parliament. The
proportion ratio, known since antiquity, was elevated to the
harmonic ideal in the 19th century. Is there a mathematical
principle behind this beauty or is the golden formula just a
beautiful myth?
Until 26 February
HB
Ernst Ludwig Kirchner: Hieroglyphics
Kirchners works from the collection of Berlins
Nationalgalerie will be shown for the first time in their
entirety. Hardly any other museum can present the
wide variety of his work as impressively, and they are
complemented by important loans clarifying Kirchners
hieroglyph concept and works by contemporary artists
Rosa Barba and Rudolf Stingel.
DEUTSCHE OPER
Berlins famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back
into its home theatre after extensive renovations this
winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one
of their performances. Several shows have Englishlanguage subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see
the website for details. The highlights of Berlins famous
Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are:
1,7-9,28,30 Dec, 2 Jan: The Nutcracker, Tchaikovsky
2 Dec, 13,20 Jan: Salome, Richard Strauss
3,29, Dec: Carmen, Georges Bizet
4,11,17, Dec: Lohengrin, Wagner
6 Dec: Abduction from the Seraglio, Mozart
10,14 Dec: Tosca, Puccini
12,15,20 Dec: Eugen Onegin, Tchaikovsky
13 Dec, 7 Jan: The Magic Flute, Mozart
16,21,26 Dec, 4 Jan: Aida, Verdi
18,19,23 Dec, 1 Jan: Hansel & Gretel, Humperdinck
31 Dec: The Barber of Seville, Rossini
3,6 Jan: La Bohme, Puccini
15,21,26 Jan: Don Giovanni, Mozart
23 Jan: Big Band Musica Latina
29 Jan: Les Huguenots, Giacomo Meyerbeer
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstrae 35, tel.
+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
Flooded railway tracks near Lderitz in current Namibia,

ca. 1910
14 October - 14 May
The new exhibition German Colonialism Fragments
Past and Present at the Deutsches Historisches Museum
is the first to look at the short but eventful era of German
colonialism, which lasted from 1884 until the end of
the First World War in 1918. Germany was one of the
major colonial powers at that time, but only in recent
years has its colonial past found its way into public
consciousness to a significant degree partly due to
the debates about the recognition of the genocide of
the Herero and Nama people in present-day Namibia.
Colonial ideology, based on the belief of a European
superiority, lead to the routine exercise of violence
up to the colonial war in Namibia, which developed
into genocide. Players in the colonial game, each with
their own aims, included missionaries, officials, military
personnel, settlers and merchants. Learn more about
Germanys controversial memory of its colonial past,
how the affected countries deal with their past and
about the present situation.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Extra admission 4.
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Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF2, Gartenstrae 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00-01:00. . TUGBS
MAXIMILIANS
So you always wondered what Bavaria is like the beer, the
food, Oktoberfest but you only made it as far as Berlin?
No problem: Maximilians restaurant serves up authentic
and delicious Bavarian cuisine just a stones throw from
Gendarmenmarkt. The menu includes soups and salads, but
the real specialities are the delicious Bavarian meat dishes
such as knuckle of pork, steak, and a variety of sausages.
QF4, Friedrichstrae 185-190, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte,
tel. +49 30 20 45 05 59, www.maximiliansrestaurant.de.
Open 11:00 - 24:00. . UGBS
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. Youll find the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen offers
sides not served at other German restaurants, including
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or
try their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors
further towards the Spree.QG3, Rathausstrae 21,
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25,
www.prostmahlzeit.de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:3024:00. . TEGB
BACK TO SCHOOL
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. Its the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. Theyre greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
ROTISSERIE WEINGRN
Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what
was once Berlins old town, Weingrns fresh and simple
interior is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such
as Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar
is stocked with wines from the owners own vineyards
in the Pfalz. The restaurant offers good views over the
Spree canal.QG4, Gertraudenstrae 10-12, Mitte, MU
Spittelmarkt, tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserieweingruen.de. Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. .
TUGBSW
SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in
broth) and Schnitzel.QF3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte,
MU Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84,
www.schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:0024:00. . TUNBS
@InYourPocket
STNDIGE VERTRETUNG
Bonn politicians and bureaucrats were not happy when
they had to move to Berlin. They sent their favorite Bonn
hangout (named after the West-German embassy in
the GDR) as an advance scout. This laid-back politicians
meeting point supplies the homesick with their beloved
Klsch beer and Rhineland specialties (like Blutwurst
and Saumagen), but the menu has a selection of Berlin
food as well.QF3, Schiffbauerdamm 8, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 282 39 65, www.staev.de.
Open 11:00 - 01:00. . B
WEIHENSTEPHANER
The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a hey, this
is Germany! experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG3,
Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
Open 11:00-01:00. . TUEGB
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beafstuffed cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. . E
21
Mitte
FOOD WITH A VIEW
ASIAN
JOLLY
Opposite the Pergamon Museum, with tourists, trams and
S-Bahn trains gliding by the windows, Jolly is a spacious
and modern restaurant with delicious Cantonese Chinese
and Thai dishes. Specialities include dim sum and Peking
roast duck, served with pancakes and special sauce, but
theres also a wide variety of soups, and good portions
of stir-fried meals and Thai curries, with servings of
fluffy rice.QF3, Am Kupfergraben 4, Mitte, MS/U
Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 20 05 95 01, service@
restaurant-jolly.de, www.restaurant-jolly.de. Open
11:30 - 23:30. . AUBS
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF3, Oranienburger Strae
69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27 97,
www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
12:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:30. . AB
PANORAMA CAF
The 1930s-style caf at the top of the popular Potsdamer
Platz viewing point has large windows and an open terrace with great views over Berlin, and serves coffee, cakes
and other snacks.QE4, Potsdamer Platz 1, Tiergarten,
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93 70 80, www.
panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00, Nov-Mar 11:0017:00. Tower admission 6,50/5, family ticket 15,50.
ZUM NUSSBAUM
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest.
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons dont care for
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities
with curious translations, such as brown rolls with dripping.
QG3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. . GB
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ
Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie on the tourist path,
and maybe thats why German leaders bring visiting
heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too
noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schrder brought Jacques Chirac over for
the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG3,
Waisenstrae 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49
30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. . GBS
OTITO
Staying open later than others in Berlins tourist district,
Otito is a good choice for fresh Vietnamese food at great
prices, to eat in or take away. Theres fried spring rolls,
wantan dumplings, pho soup and a variety of rice dishes
as well as an impressive list of sushi options.QLeipziger
Str. 30, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 60 53 00, www.
otito.de. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
VAN LONG
Best visited for the wide range of Vietnamese specialities,
from all parts of the country, Van Long also has some tasty
Thai options served in a modest space decorated with
Vietnamese art. Try the specials such as the Cha Ca La
Vong fish that you finish grilling at your table, or the Lau
chay clay pot with tofu and vegetables.QReinhardtstrae
8, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 28 23 570,
www.van-long.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
AUSTRIAN
BRECHT KELLER
The recipes served here are those of a busy Austrian actress
making do with East German ingredients, so though
decent, its not the Tafelspitz (rump steak) thats famous,
but the spirit of the place where playwright Berthold
Brecht and his actress wife Helene Weigel lived. The small
basement cellar is full of family photographs and original
set models of plays like Mother Courage. Also inside is
what could only be described as a romantic brick-lined
lounge area. A wall separates the terrace from the cemetery
where the couple are buried.QF2, Chausseestrae 125,
Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 282 38 43,
www.brechtkeller.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. . B
Mitte
FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly
international, as its name, concept and all the old
furnishings originate from a famous Viennese caf that
closed in the 1980s. Master chef Herbert Beltle and his
team serve award-winning dishes with ingredients sourced
fresh from the market.QF3, Franzsische Strae 25,
Mitte, MU Franzsiche Strae, tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50,
www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.de. Open 12:00-02:00.
. TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good
first impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
buildings original tile floors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a different menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF3, Franzsische
Strae 47, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. . GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet
restaurant, chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly
light fare using only fresh, local products direct from the
market. The menu changes daily and has an emphasis
on tasty vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils design is
a post-modern, glass-box Asian pavilion with a large
central skylight that retracts.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05
12 34, www.facil.de. Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00
- 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . UGB
Wh
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister
and the light, fish-focused menu is for a very refined
palate. Chef Christian Lohse has won several of the
Michelin stars that appear none too oft in Germany.
The German chef first trained in Dijon and has since
pleased gourmands such as those at The Dorchester
in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private
chef ). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets
and a fireplace.QF3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte,
MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63,
www.fischersfritzberlin.com. Open 12:00-14:00;
18:30-23:00. . PAG hh
LUTTER & WEGNER
Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms in which
to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF3,

Charlottenstrae 56, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel.
+49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:00-03:00.
Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00 while the
Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. . AB
PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government offices and
hotels. Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been
serving up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years
now. Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb
crust, tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays,
theres a lunch menu as well.QE3, Alt-Moabit 141,
Tiergarten, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81,
www.paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00,
Sat, Sun 18:00-24:00. . A
VOX
Highly-paid business travellers from New York, London and
Hamburg look quite at home in this excellent, minimalist
and high-ceiling restaurant in the Grand Hyatt. Between the
DJ sets and creative cocktails in the adjoining bar and the
show kitchen, it makes for a see-and-be-seen evening, so
dont drop your sushi in your lap.QE4, Marlene-DietrichPlatz 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25
53 17 72, www.vox-restaurant.de. Open: Breakfast MonFri 06:30 - 10:30, Sat & Sun 06:30 - 12:00. Dinner Sun-Thu
18:30 - 23:00, Fri & Sat 18:30 - 24:00. Bar Sun-Thu 18:0001:00, Fri & Sat 18:00-02:00. . PAEGB
INTERNATIONAL
NOLAS AM WEINBERG
Delicious modern Swiss cuisine served on the heady hights
of Berlins city-centre Weinberg mountain. Get your tongue
around amazing cheese-bread-wine combinations and
enjoy anything from healthy breakfasts to nicely priced
weekday lunches and Sunday brunches to Alpine dinners
including various fondue options.QVeteranenstrasse 9,
Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66,
www.nola.de. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
PATIO
Surprisingly few restaurants in Berlin make the most of
the wonderful river views - but Patio is an exception,
located on a boat with huge windows, a fireplace and
large terrace areas. Watch the tour boats glide by as you
try the international, Italian-inspired cuisine, or order one
of the excellent cocktails.QHelgolnder Ufer corner
Kirchstrae, Mitte, MS Bellevue, tel. +49 30 40 30 17 00,
www.patio-berlin.de. Open 17:30 23:00.
Full contents online:

23
Mitte
REINHARDS
Reinhards friendly staff can whisk a coffee to your table
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG3,
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. -.
TGBS
TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolhoff, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland
and Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes
or compose their own menus, with or without wines.
The two-course set lunch menu is great value.QF2,
Reinhardtstrae 33, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel.
+49 30 27 87 93 93, www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:0015:00, 18:00-23:45, Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. .
TGB
ZOLLPACKHOF
Strolling around the impressive Chancellery complex by
the Spree can be a pretty exhausting and thirsty activity.
The Zollpackhof beer garden has a terrace with views of
the building and a restaurant boasting a first-class menu,
ranging from light pasta dishes to excellent rump steak
and Wiener schnitzel.QE3, Elisabeth-Abegg-Strae 1,
Mitte, MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 33 09 97 20,
www.zollpackhof.de. Open from 11:00. . TUGB
JAPANESE
COCOLO
A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start off with a bowl of
salty green beans, choose from five delicious broths, have
an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG2, Gipsstrae 3,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
84. Open 18:00-24:00. . GB
SUSHI CIRCLE
This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and office workers on the
go. If youre not quick enough to grab the pieces passing
by on the bars conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle
around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle
to whip a request off for you.QF3, Franzsische Strae
48, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 650
60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:0023:00. .
Read more reviews online:

SPANISH
YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this
intimate-sized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and
a Spanish staff is one of the few to proudly show its
roots. High stools and an open storefront give you a nice
vantage point from which to watch the crowds flowing
towards the Hackescher Hfe.QG3, Rosenthaler
Strae 37, Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49
30 283 912 13, www.yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. .
PAB
CAFS
BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coffee
and luscious American hand-made baked goods. In
the cake window there are several kinds of cheese
cake, lemon meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan
pie and other heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten
with Philly cream cheese spreads, and at this Mitte
outlet there are also salads, sandwiches and soups. The
Kreuzberg Kaffeersterei outlet (Bergmannstrae 21)
has fresh coffee.QF5, Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 83 63, info@
barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00. . TGBS
THE DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very first
caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (8,90),
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic
devices or use the free wifi. Best of all are the digital toys
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or
play Xbox games.QF3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W
Nightlife
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick off your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Strae haunt.QF3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07,
[email protected], www.aufsturz.de. Open from
12:00. EB
Mitte
Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com
Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)
EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM

ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.
DER MAUERWINZER
TheVintner by the Wallserves around 100 wines from all 13 wine
regions in both east and west Germany. Cosy up by the fireplace in
winter or spread out on the terrace in summer to make the most
of the fine wines, or get some bottles to take home.QWolliner
Str. 20, Mitte, MU Eberswalder Strasse, tel. +49 30 48 49 15 01,
www.mauerwinzer.de. Open 16:00 - 23:00.
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a graffitied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, affordable beers and cocktails, a stage,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in
the back yard shows foreign films in original version.QG3,
Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
[email protected],
www.eschschloraque.de.
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW
MEIN HAUS AM SEE
Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the My
Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope of seating
steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture lit up by
discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering locals and
backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7, its a cafe, bar
and restaurant all at the same time. On the menu are drinks,
exotic coffee varieties and chilli hot choc, as well as great
breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers, pasta dishes and snacks.
At night, DJs spin music.QG2, Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 27 59 08 73, [email protected], www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de.
Open 24 hours Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn offspring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for making
stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF2,
Novalisstrae 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
30 28 38 76 76, [email protected], www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB
CLUBS
GRNER SALON
Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG2, Volksbhne,
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
HOUSE OF WEEKEND
The old Weekend Club moved from 12th to the 17th
floor of the beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the
GDR state travel agency specialising in saying no) on
the corner of Otto-Braun-Strae. Probably the best
rooftop view in town!QG3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 (0) 152 24293140,
www.houseofweekend.berlin. Open Thu-Sat 23:00-04:00.
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-inthe-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
Kaminers wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
QG2, Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission 2,50. Minimum age
is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
25
Mitte
ROTER SALON
This place probably began with a faded elegance, but lets
say its just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing off
its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro lounge,
and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.QG2,
Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU RosaLuxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12, www.rotersalon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Tue, Sun.
PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station offer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages flow freely.
QG3, Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 20 84, [email protected],
www.kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike,
the goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower
chariot atop the gate. German armies used to begin
their parades here, the fascists spoiled the gate by
staging their torch-lit marches through it, the war
badly damaged it, and then the Wall essentially
bricked the patched-up gate in for decades. Berliners
celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by standing on it in
front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the
proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF3,
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the
most eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly
balance the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired
synagogue from 1866, with preserved evidence of
its destruction, first on Kristallnacht on November 9,

1938, and then through Allied bombs. Documents and
photographs remember the thriving Jewish community
of the neighbourhood, many of whom worshipped
here in what was the largest synagogue in Germany.
A subtle but effective sound installation adds to the
experience.QF3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30, Mitte,
MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar
& Oct until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until
18:00. Sat closed. Admission 3,50/3.
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suffered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
Hotel and office skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter,
whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the
Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt
along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins
750th birthday in the area in which the fishermens
settlement first began. No one was trying to outdo Walt
Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple,
concrete facades that the GDR government could afford.
The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and
souvenirs and tourists gladly fill the sunny tables at the
restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstrae, theres
a row of restaurants that flaunt old-fashioned Berlin
cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings
in the area date to the 1700s, such as the EphraimPalais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits
related to Berlin.QG3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
Mitte
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here.
After hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was
set on fire just one month after Hitler was appointed
chancellor in January 1933. It was a conference centre
in the years during which it abutted the Wall, while
later artist Christo famously wrapped it in cloth. It was
used as parliament again after a reunited German
government returned to Berlin in 1999. Renovated by
Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps the most
public federal building in the world through its glass
dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting the
buildings history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. Its best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF3, Platz der Republik 1,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.
CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating from
1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss were
still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR regime
demolished the castle in 1951). The royal Hohenzollern
dynasty worshipped and was buried here. The climb up
to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad staircases, side
exhibit rooms and good views.QG3, Am Lustgarten,
Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 26 91 36,
www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00. Admission 7/4.
DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by fire in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an

exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so
tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views
from the windows and the impressive building models
on the top floor. Free tours in English are possible
throughout the day; no booking is required for
individual visitors.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 22 73 04 31, www.
bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/ausstellungen/
wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
free.
FRANZSISCHER DOM
The
northernmost
domed
tower
in
the
Gendermenmarkts grand architectural triptych dates
back to 1785, and similarly to its counterpart was
badly damaged in the war. It now has regular concerts
in the simple baroque Friedrichstadtkirche church to
the rear. Enter from the other side for the Huguenot
museum (in German and French only), dedicated to
the thousands of French protestants who moved to
Berlin in the 17th century. Yet another entrance leads
to the viewing balcony at 40 metres above street level,
with great views all around.QF3, Gendarmenmarkt
5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 20 64 99 22,
www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open 12:00-17:00,
viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon. Admission
2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1.
MEMORIALS
FHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler
lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid
shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete
ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking
to the end of In den Ministergrten, off Ebertstrae. A
parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed off
during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The bunker
was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.QF3, In den
Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR

Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstrae 47 / corner Zimmerstrae | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors service [email protected]
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de
HERE, CONTEmpORARy HIsTORy COmEs ALIvE

27
Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree offers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are
some of the artists whose works hang around this
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully
battered colonnade.QG3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte,
MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42,
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG3, Am
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germanys national memorial to those victims. The
design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a field of
2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating
an undulating landscape that fills two city blocks. The
memorial has an undergound information centre which is
not suitable for children.QF3, Cora-Berliner-Strae 1,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36,
[email protected], www.stiftungdenkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, OctMar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,

Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full of
ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
Collection are housed here, with spectacular finds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has finds
from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
considered to be degenerate art by the Nazis.QG3,
Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG3, Am
Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
QF4, Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
71, [email protected], www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 5/3,50.
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlins very own
fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that first became
popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
found at train stations and street corners across the city.
This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
culinary creation. Theres a shop with sausage accessories
and you can taste currywurst too.QF4, Schtzenstrae
70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47,
www.currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 11/8,50.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building
on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler
companys art collection is presented in four well-curated
exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract
artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the
Mitte
larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets
around the museum.QE4, Alte Potsdamer Strae 5,
Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung.
daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germanys
history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in the
dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent an audio
tour set for 3 or join the English-language highlights tour on
Saturdays at 13:00.QF3, Unter den Linden 2, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de.
Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 8/4. Under 18 free.
GEDENKSTTTE BERLINER MAUER
The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Walls history in text, slides and dramatic film footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark
for several more open-air exhibitions.QF2, Bernauer
Strae 111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49
30 467 98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de,
www.berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:3019:00, Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor
exhibition open 24hrs). Admission free.
GEMLDEGALERIE
Berlins largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works
spanning the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters
include Drer, Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians
are represented by Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch
rooms are especially good with a Vermeer and the worlds
largest Rembrandt collection.QE4, Matthikirchplatz
8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 266
42 42 42, [email protected], www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 8/4.
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those
curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of
animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers fixated by
bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel
Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s
collection.QE2, Invalidenstrae 50-51, Mitte, MS/U
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, [email protected], www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
PANORAMAPUNKT
Landesarchiv Berlin
PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoffs magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On
the top floors theres a short film and an exhibition
about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square,
which went from a world-class entertainment district
to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a
generation. The caf and rooftop terrace offer great
close-up views of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor,
the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former
Wall zone and Tiergarten park.QE4, Potsdamer Platz
1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:00
- 20:00, Nov - Mar 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 6,50/5,
family ticket 15,50.
KUNSTHALLE
The private collection of the Deutsche Bank contains
works by world-renowned contemporary artists; regularly
changing temporary exhibitions show selected works
in this space on Unter den Linden designed by Richard
Gluckman. The annual artist of the year exhibition focuses
on one young artist. Theres a nice ArtCaf and shop
too. There are free tours every day, several on Monday
between 11:00-19:00.QF3, Unter den Linden 13-15,
Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 202 09 30,
www.deutsche-bank-kunsthalle.com. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission 4/3, Monday & under 18 free. Free
guided tours at 18:00.
MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM
A much-discussed exhibition of real, plastinated human
bodies, aiming to show visitors how their bodies and
individual organs work, how we can live healthier and longer,
and what disease really looks like.QPanoramastrasse 1a
(Fernsehturm tower), Mitte, www.memu.berlin. Open
10:00 - 19:00. Admission 14/12.
29
Mitte
VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline.
The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed
in 1969, 70m higher than the Eiffel tower and the tallest
building in Germany, has an observation deck and the
Sphere restaurant with a rotating floor. Photos point out
the landmarks for you.QG3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Admission
12/8.
Shopping
Wall Panorama
MUSEUM FR FILM UND FERNSEHEN

Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of
the personalities that gave it glamour and style came
from Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre,
directors Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out
of a country with a strong film-making tradition. Photo
stills, footage, set designs and costumes provide glimpses
of the familiar, and exhibits on Leni Riefenstahls shooting
of Olympia (1936) and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda
films will impress seen-that film buffs. The museum
ends with special effects and science fiction.QE4,
Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony Center), Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 300 90 30, www.deutschekinemathek.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon Admission 6/4,5.
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square, with
five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs. Theres a
massive kids area with a cinema and the LOXX model train
exhibition.QG3, Grunerstrae 20 (Alexanderplatz),
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 269 34 00,
www.alexacentre.com. Open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00,
lower level from 08:00. Food court also open Sun 11:0019:00. LOXX open daily 10:00-19:00.
GUDRUN SJDN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjdn in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. Theres two
floors of clothing and a cozy caf corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.de.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
MUSEUM FR NATURKUNDE
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall.QF2, Invalidenstrae 43,
Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
91, [email protected], www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD

The flagship store of Germanys famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzsische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
WALL PANORAMA
The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of
the Berlin Wall and its scruffy surroundings as it looked in
the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has incorporated his
personal experiences of the time and the everyday banality
of the Wall with fascinating small scenes of life, on both
sides of the divide. Join the English tour on Thursdays 11:30
at no extra cost.QF4, Friedrichstrae 205, Mitte, tel.
+49 34 13 55 53 40, www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Mid-July to mid-Sept 10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00.
Admission 10/8.
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the staff provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, [email protected],
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240
- 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
Hotels
OVER 200
Mitte
Get the In Your Pocket
City Essentials App
HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged view
on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back. The
formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants and
exotic spa treatments.QF2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, [email protected],
www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnificent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade the
high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vault is now
a 20-metre pool.QF3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte, MS/U
Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.derome@
roccofortecollection.com,
www.hotelderome.com.
146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103 doubles 395 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).
MARRIOTT
Ten floors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one
wall plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness
centre and a classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make
this one of Berlins finest hotels.QE4, Inge-BeisheimPlatz 1, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22
00 00, www.marriott.com. 379 rooms (350 singles
159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 - 219, 9 suites 350 1200, 80 executive room 199 - 259). Breakfast extra.
PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the
Adlons marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool,

an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF3,
Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 202 70, [email protected],
www.westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles 136 - 350,
273 doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 - 930, 15 junior suites
279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986 - 1930). Breakfast
extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185190 are close to all the action.QE4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, [email protected], www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh
75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded floors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and
goldfish pond for frolicking around in summer.QF2,
Tieckstrae 12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30
284 45 50, [email protected], www.honigmond.de.
24 rooms (singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225). AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys third-largest
hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all renovated
and stocked with a coffeemaker and ironing board. By far the
best choice for the direction-impaired.QG3, Alexanderplatz 7,
Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@
rezidorparkinn.com, www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms
(318 singles 89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130
- 185). Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
asisi Panorama Berlin

Friedrichstrae 205
10117 Berlin
Checkpoint Charlie
Tickets and Service

+49(0)341.35 55 34 0
[email protected]
Free Guided Tours

Thursdays 11.30 a.m.
in English for Berlin
discoverers
Opening hours
daily from 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m.
Getting there
U6 Kochstrae
U2 Stadtmitte
M29 Kochstrae
facebook.com/
asisi.berlin
www.asisi.de
ASISI PANORAMA BERLIN

asisi.de
In cooperation with
31
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Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD5,
Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.net. Open
10:00 - 24:00. -. UNGBS
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on offer at rustic
Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. Theres also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC4, Knesebeckstrae 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TB
RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a difference. The interior is
kept casual and simple, with all focus on the people and
the food. Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes
such as sauteed mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared
pike-perch and a selection of tasty Alsatian flammekuchen.
QD5, Wartburgstrae 54, Schneberg, MU Eisenacher
Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20 59, www.renger-patzsch.com.
Open 18:00 - 23:30. .
Zillemarkt
SCHNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled
tavern on the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz.
Schnitzel variations, Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with
pea puree, sauerkraut, and boiled potatoes), Omas Rote
Grtze (a vanilla pudding with stewed red berries), and
warm apple strudel make up the menu of traditional
Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD5, Motzstrae
61, Schneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel. +49 30
21 96 98 61, [email protected],
http://schoeneberger-weltlaterne.mycylex.de. Open
17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. . TEB
RESTAURANT SCHLOSSGARTEN
A stones throw from the elegant Charlottenburg palace and
several other top-class museums, the Schlossgarten is an
excellent restaurant with a bright interior, a separate small
Jgerstbchen room and a large 80-seat Biergarten thats
delightful in summer. Schlossgarten specialises in German
and game dishes, using fresh and seasonal regional products.
Try the spicy venison goulash soup, a game Bratwurst, one of
the fresh fish dishes or the Berliner calf liver.QB3, Schlossstr.
64, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49
30 36 70 22 99, www.restaurant-schlossgarten-berlin.de.
Open 11:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:30 - 20:00.
Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Renger-Patzsch

GEBE42_RengerPatzsch_ad.indd 5
33
26.11.2009 12:44:07

AMERICAN
HARD ROCK CAFE
This is the place to head to meet both foreigners and
locals looking for huge piles of food and un-Germanly
friendly staff. America dominates the menu, with nachos,
wraps, fantastic hamburgers, steaks and chocolate peanut
butter pie. When the kitchen closes, the bar continues,
allowing visitors to party on.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 224,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 88
46 20, www.hardrock.com. Open 11:30 - 23:30, Fri, Sat
11:30 - 00:30. (10-20). PAEGB
ASIAN
Suksan
ZILLEMARKT
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous
for his charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll
in and order a jellied boiled pork, stuffed cabbage
leaves or a Berliner Currywurst. Zillemarkt serves
breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner, and
you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged
bar.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 881 70 40, [email protected],
www.zillemarkt.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00
- 24:00. TB
JJ
Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant
Over 100 years of

comfort and quality
Traditional German cuisine
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, [email protected],
www.suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat 16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.com.
Open 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well off the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in different variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB3,
Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who cant
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying at
the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far East,

and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.QD4,
Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . G h
GROSZ
A true old-fashioned Grand Cafe and restaurant, conceived
in the same style as during the Kudamms heyday, a century
ago. Grosz not only looks magnificent with its architecture,
the fine dining is as good as it gets in this part of town.
Settle down for an exquisite dinner - perhaps even private
dining? - or drop by earlier for the Plat du jour lunch special
or the cakes from the house patisserie.QKurfrstendamm
193/194, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrasse, tel. +49
30 652 14 21 99, www.grosz-berlin.de/. Open 09:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 23:30.
SUKSAN
TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME

Sawatdi Kap welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for
Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin,
offering varied dishes with captivating aromas and tasty
combinations that will tickle the palate. Quality, freshness,
and healthy and original ingredients are central to our dishes, without losing sight of modern cuisine. Under bamboo
roofs, Suksan seats over 60 guests in Thai settings. Let us
take you on a culinary trip to the land of smiles.
HUGOS
The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant on
the 14th floor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer
Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is equally dazzling; expect
subtle creations blending fine flavours in the lightest of dishes.
QD4, Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGW h
FRENCH
LE PETIT ROYAL
Fantastic, high quality French cuisine, focussing on classic
dishes, fresh seafood and fish - but theres great steak
too. And its no problem to pair whatever you order to
one of the 500 wines stored in the large wine room. The
beautifully designed space is perfect for a special night out.
QC4, Grolmanstrasse 59, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30
330 06 07 50, www.lepetitroyal.de.
INTERNATIONAL
DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the first to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French finesse, even if it was in what began
as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old
Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses
French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on
the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC4,
Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel.
+49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. . UGB
DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something of
Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden paneling,
large mirrors, and good bistro and proper restaurant
meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere. The menu
changes every week. Also in Mitte, at Unter den Linden
39.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 207, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883 35 30, www.restaurantdressler.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. . UGB
100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin

THAI RESTAURANT
& COCKTAIL LOUNGE
ORIGINA
L
THAI FOO
D
SUKSAN
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfrstenstrasse
U - Wittenbergplatz
www.suksan.de
TEL 030.21 01 86 73
35

DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in the
aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a dazzling
1920s building near the Kudamm. The open kitchen allows
you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert create culinary
treats.QD4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55, Charlottenburg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683 15 40 00,
www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 - 23:00. -.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space only.
Every day theres a completely different menu, with European
and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian dishes.QC4,
Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae,
tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorn-catering.de. Open
10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. . NGS
ITALIAN
FRANCUCCIS
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
truffles.QB4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. . TVGBSW
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, fish and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu. Opposite
the Schaubhne theatre.QB4, Lehniner Platz 2,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 31 80
69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. . TNGBS
ZWLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The Italian
food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here is excellent,
and from Monday to Friday the business lunch options offer
good value. Also at Georgenstrae 2, under the S-Bahn track
in Mitte.QC4, Bleibtreustrae 49, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 14 33, www.12-apostel.de.
Open 08:00 - 01:00. . TNGBS
JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres your
chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or tuna rolls
with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC3, JeanneMammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz,
tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.com. Open 12:00
- 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon. . TGBS
RUSSIAN
SAMOWAR
Berlins oldest Russian restaurant can fittingly be found
in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.
Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Stroganoff, Odessa
fish soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For
an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar
menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny
desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets.
QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54,
www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.
SPANISH
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh
up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and
Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if you just want
to snack while watching the boulevards shoppers pass
by.QC4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82,
www.eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. . B
CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This caf, restaurant
and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
well as regional food, coffee, cakes and cocktails. Food
served till 22:00.QD4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30,
www.cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 23:00. -. TUGB
CAF IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly fluffed pups, but you dont have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers and
critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy rooms that
are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC4, Fasanenstrae
23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
887
2860,
[email protected],
www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. . GB
CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly caf in gay old Schneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. Theres fair trade coffee, quality teas,
cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals and more.
QD4/5, Motzstrae 30, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 - 22:00. . ABW

GRENANDER MORNING GLORY
Pastries, muffins, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone caf. Great for
breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. . TUGBS
WHAT DO YOU FANCY LOVE?
Away from the posh cafes along the Kudamm, try a
relaxed cup of coffee, slice of cake, or healthy snack,
juice or smoothie at Fancy.QKnesebeckstr. 68/69,
Charlottenburg, www.whatdoyoufancylove.de. Open
08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and
up, and quite steady on their feet.QD5, Winterfeldstrae
50, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215
25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00.
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelfisch is, among other things, the term used
by printers to label a single letter that rebels and appears in a
font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but still-kicking liberals
come here to rest the weight of their youthful ideals and trade
wisecracks with long-time owner Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz
or classic music is piped in, and a selection of papers and
magazines helps stretch out the beer or coffee. Hot meals,
like goulash and Swabian Maultaschen are served up until
03:00. The tall tables abutting the bar are a brilliantly social
arrangement.QC4, Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfischberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW
Caf im Literaturhaus
WEST BERLIN REVIVAL
After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin

found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedchtniskirche stands the gleaming
new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary
Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours
Hotel Bikini Berlin.
37
401
whiskies
Berlins first English pub since 1976

British and Irish beer on tap
Drink from the YARD OF ALE (1 litre)
mouth-blown exclusively for Union Jack
Live Music during winter months
Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
skin offers shelter for almost all of the 75,000 seats. On nonevent days you can visit the stadium using a multi-language
audioguide, or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer
Platz 3, Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel.
+49 30 25 00 23 22, [email protected],
www.olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June
- mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission 7/5.
PUBS
SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
first queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace in
1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter facade
and central tower, took its final form in 1790. You can take
a guided or audiotour of the luxurious and largely Rococo
and Baroque apartments where an eye-glazing number
of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms resided. Also here is the
largest collection of 18th century French painting outside
France, plus a beautiful Baroque garden, mausoleum, and
Belvedere teahouse with a porcelain exhibition. Take bus
M45 from Wagner-Platz or Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA3,
Spandauer Damm 20-24, Charlottenburg, MU RichardWagner-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de.
Open 10:00-18:00; Nov-Mar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed.
New Wing 10:00-18:00, Tues closed. Admission 12/8,
New Wing 6/5. Photo permit 3.
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny, and
a choice of German beers. You can expect major sports
events to be beamed on screens, and theres quiz nights
and live music too. The pub can be booked for special
occasions.QB4, Giesebrechtstrae 15, Charlottenburg,
MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22 32 87 35, [email protected], www.harp-pub.de. Mon-Fri from 15:00, Sat, Sun
from 10:00. -. EBW
UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin, this
whisky pub is one of Berlins first true pubs and continues
to draw the punters in with a collection of 401 whiskys
(from the best Scottish and Irish brands to Canadian and
Japanese bourbon) and various English and Irish beers.
Solid food is available too home made snacks and Walkers
crisps.QC4, Schlterstrae 15, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312 55 57, www.unionjackberlin.de. Open 19:00 - open end. Closed Sun Open from
19:00. Sun closed.
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the direction
of architect Werner March to host the 1936 Olympic Games.
A good example of bombastic fascist architecture, its size
never fails to impress. The most striking changes are the blue
track and the seemingly floating roof whose translucent
CHURCHES
GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a plaque:
The tower of the old church serves as a remembrance of
Gods judgement, which befell our people during the war
years. The 1895 church was once a symbol of national
pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is
a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty. The modern
chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961,
and are worth entering on sunny days for the amazing blue
stained glass windows. Concerts take place every week,
many of them free.QD4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 218 50 23,
www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open 09:00-19:00.

MUSEUMS
ALLIIERTENMUSEUM (ALLIED MUSEUM)
The Allied Museum covers 50 years of West German Allied
(US, British, French) relations in the US Army movie house
Outpost. The prize exhibit is the original sentry box from
the Checkpoint Charlie border crossing.QClayallee 135,
Zehlendorf, MU Oskar-Helene-Heim, tel. +49 30 818
19 90, www.alliiertenmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Wed. Admission free.
BRHAN MUSEUM
A stellar collection of art deco, art nouveau, and art and
craft design awakens post-modern sensibilities, blunted by
so much IKEA and minimalism, to craftsmanship, whimsy
and indulgent beauty. In addition to the permanent
collection (spanning 1889-1939) of porcelain, lamps, vases,
and furnishings, are paintings, including those by Peter
Behrens and Bruno Paul, as well as special exhibitions.
QB3, Schlostrae 1a, Charlottenburg, MU SophieCharlotte-Platz, tel. +49 30 32 69 06 00, www.broehanmuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission
6/4.
C/O BERLIN
The famed C/O photo gallery is now based in the iconic
Amerika-Haus building near Zoo Bahnhof. There are
multiple exhibitions on at any time, by both unknown
and renowned photographers. Dont miss the cafe and the
museum shop either.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 22-24,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49
30 28 44 41 60, www.co-berlin.org. Open 11:00 - 20:00.
Admission 10/5.
MUSEUM FR ASIATISCHE KUNST
Alongside special exhibitions dealing with everything
from Qing-dynasty painting to architecture, the Asian Art
museum has an impressive permanent collection of Indian,
Chinese, Japanese and Korean art and archaeology. Each
tradition has its own gallery, and in the centre, a room
dedicated to Buddhist art. Chinese and Japanese painting
and calligraphy are of special interest, as well as Japanese
woodcuts.QTakustrae 40, Zehlendorf, MU DahlemDorf, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum.
Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 6/3.
PARKS AND GARDENS

TIERGARTEN
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
waterways is the most genteel of Berlins parks, but its
still a fine place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessule
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
point in the middle of the park. The parks caf and beer
garden, Caf am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E3/4.
Hotels
OVER 200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set
in the 1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an
interesting mix of creatives and business visitors. The
1920s-style bar and many rooms overlook the zoo,
with ostriches and antelopes peering back at you.
The rooms and grand suites are spread across the
old and new wings, adorned with beautiful wooden
and copper details. A small pool can be found in the
spa area, and theres the first-class Cinco restaurant.
QD4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms
(70 doubles from 200, 20 suites 290-740). PH
UFGKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental offers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food
at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further
relaxation options can be found in the large spa
complex, with several saunas and fitness facilities.QD4,
Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, [email protected],
www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 350, 498 doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500).
Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBK
DCWhhhhh
KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Kudamm.QC4, Kurfrstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49
30 88 43 40, [email protected],
www.kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles 265
- 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and fireplaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD 4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20,
[email protected], www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59
singles 200 - 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325, 32 suites
325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh
39

SAVOY BERLIN
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-flavoured abode once
made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who knows
who youll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop near the
clubby Times Bar.QC4, Fasanenstrae 9-10, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 31 10 30, info@
hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com. 125 rooms (45
singles 142 - 222, 62 doubles 152 - 232, triples 192 - 272,
16 suites 202 - 292). ARFKD
hhhh
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFRSTENDAMM
The 11-story, French-style Sofitel impresses with sleekly
designed rooms with fine woods, contemporary art
and fantastic views from the upper floors. The curved
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC4, Augsburger Strae 41, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles 230 280, doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950). Breakfast
extra.
SWISSTEL BERLIN
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites
are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When youre
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin
beckons. Youll never want to go home.QC4, Augsburger
Strae 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel.
+49 30 22 01 00, [email protected], www.swissotelberlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles 160 - 310, 219
doubles 160 - 310, 14 suites 310 - 480, 11 junior suite
260 - 410). Breakfast 21. PHARFLGD
hhhhh
WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a caf and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th floor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire offers fine dining and 650
wines.QC4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00,
www.waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles
from 250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
150-200
BERLINER HOF AM TAUENTZIEN
Enter through the Europa Center mall to reach this
surprisingly light and modern hotel. Comfort rooms
have big beds, kitchenettes and a sitting area behind a
sliding door; rooms overlooking the courtyard are quieter,
larger and have balconies.QD4, Tauentzienstrae 8,
Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30
25 49 50, www.berliner-hof.com. singles 105 - 151,
doubles 130- 174. TARLG hhh
SHERATON BERLIN GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE

Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfrstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses
with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harrys New York Bar
and a sizeable spa and fitness centre.QD4, Ltzowufer
15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47
80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles
from 99, 40 suites from 139). PTHAUFL
GKDCWhhhhh
75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large
1958 hotel is in a central but rather bland area just
south of Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and
restaurant give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in
a variety of styles. Peace can be found in the summer
garden restaurant.QD 4, Ltzowplatz 17, Tiergarten,
MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@
hotel-berlin.de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms
(103 singles 100 - 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29
suites 220 - 900). PHA RUFLGKD
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BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-fi. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles 80 150, doubles 79 - 180, triples 105 - 200). HL
GKW
ELLINGTON HOTEL
Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfrstendamm and
named after the American jazz legend, the Ellingtons rooms
have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
Suites offering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
regular jazz brunches.QD4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31 50,
[email protected], www.ellington-hotel.com.
285 rooms (singles 108 - 238, doubles 118 - 248, suites
168 - 428). PJHARU
FLK
SYLTER HOF
Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
QD3, Kurfrstenstrae 114-116, Schneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, [email protected], www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
singles 69 - 120, 40 doubles 99 - 180, 40 suites 129
- 210). HAGhhh
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FRIEDRICHSHAIN
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ASIAN
GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with gingermango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings.
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the
vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of drinks and
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by;
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective
lines, theres a large harbour scene on one wall and the
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI4,
Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel.
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . AUBSW
INTERNATIONAL
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
what more does a meat-lover want? Theres a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. . TUNGBS
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very first thing that we learnt to bake together
with our mothers is now a fashionable little dessert
snack with its own caf dedicated to it. Try The King
cupcake (with Elvis favourite ingredients), the sweet
visitBerlin, Photo: Wolfgang Scholvien
Pretty in Pink or any of the other 20-odd creations.

Theres a good breakfast and coffee served at Cup
Cake too.QJ4, Krossener Strae 12, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 25 76 86
87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
TUVNGBSW
CAFS
KAUFBAR
At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate
croissant with either a coffee or carafe of red wine.
Excepting the wine, you can buy everything here to-go:
the lampshades, art work, chairs and even the ashtrays.
The only thing not for sale in the Buy Bar are their
board games.QJ4, Grtnerstrae 4, Friedrichshain,
MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 77 88 25,
www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue, Wed
15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf.
Theres old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday
market, good coffee and original South American mate tea,
sipped through a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI4,
Grtnerstrae 14, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73 59 43, [email protected],
www.macondo-berlin.de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 02:00. BW
Friedrichshain
BARS
MUSEUMS
ASTRO-BAR
A firm Friedrichshain favourite, this incredibly scruffy sci-fi
themed bar is open late - very late - and serves good cocktails
at great prices. Visited by a wild variety of people, weekend
evenings are the best times to come, when DJs from Berlins
underground party scene spin their electropop and retro
records. No real dancefloor unfortunately, but nobody will
stop you from just wiggling anywhere. It has an Attacks
From Mars pinball machine.QI4, Simon-Dach-Strae 40,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae. Open from
20:00 - open end. DJs every night from 22:00. B
COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
The worlds first computer games museum presents six epic
decades of gaming history, including the Giant Joystick,
Painstation, Arcade Hall, the legendary Pong machine and
the Wall of Hardware. With 300 exhibits, rare originals and
working classics you can try several games yourself.QI3,
Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain, MU Weberwiese,
tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.computerspielemuseum.de.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Admission 8/5.
CRACK BELLMER
A barn of a bar amidst all the clubs in the formerly industrial
RAW compound. Crack Bellmer is not just a place for drinking
however; theres film screenings, and a good-sized space
for dancing to DJs at 80s or swing nights. Find the entrance
at the southern end of Simon-Dach-Strae.QI4, Revaler
Strae 99, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, www.
crackbellmer.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon. UNB
CLUBS
BERGHAIN
A legendary techno club. Pretty much anything goes on the
main dance floor, in the Panorama Bar and in the dark rooms
of this huge old power plant. The doorman picks from the
queue of hopefuls to create the right mix, so parties are always
varied and exciting. Arrive early Sunday morning for the best
atmosphere. There are concerts and events on weekdays
too, and in summer an outdoor Diskogarten.QI3/4, Am
Wriezener Bahnhof, Friedrichshain, MS Ostbahnhof, tel.
+49 30 29 36 02 10, www.berghain.de. Open Fri 24:00 Sat 12:00, Sat 24:00 - Mon 09:00. UNGBW
MATRIX
Directly underneath under the Warschauer Strae U-Bahn station
DJs lay down tracks of RnB, straight house, soul, electro, disco
and pop on seven dance floors within the vaults that date back
to 1901. Theres always a party here, 365 nights a year. Thursday
is student night, Friday has party classics with free champagne
before midnight for ladies, Saturday is Fruity Night, with juicy
cocktails.QI4, Warschauer Platz 18, Friedrichshain, MS/U
Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29 36 99 90, www.matrixberlin.de. Open 22:00 - 06:00. Admission 3-6. UGBW
POSTBAHNHOF CLUB
Popular with students and others in their 20s/30s, this well-run
club set inside the former mail station next to Ostbahnhof has
three dancefloors and an outdoor bar. The music varies nightly
depending on the party theme; everything from 90s, RnB and
rock to house and electro. Unlike other clubs in the area, this
is no overhyped favourite - you can simply expect to have a
good time here. Also known for concerts and other events.
QStrae der Pariser Kommune 8, Friedrichshain, MS
Ostbahnhof, tel. +49 30 698 12 80, www.postbahnhof.club.
Open Fri, Sat 23:00-04:00. Admission 4-7,50.
DEUTSCH-RUSSISCHES MUSEUM
In the southeast, the building where Germany signed
its surrender on 8 May 1945 now serves as the GermanRussian museum. More rooms focus on World War II, but
exhibits include Soviet relations to both East and West
Germany and the presence of the war following the war.
QZwieseler Strae 4, Lichtenberg, MS Karlshorst, tel.
+49 30 50 15 08 10, www.museum-karlshorst.de. Open
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
STASI MUSEUM
East Germanys State Security Service or Stasi was responsible for
intelligence gathering both at home and abroad. It spied on its
own citizens, sometimes employing the friends, colleagues, and
family of those they wished to keep an eye on. Today, this humble
museum shows the office of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi
minister for 32 years, in its original dull state. Theres a video of him
testifying before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch,
and many documents in German.QRuschestrae 103, Haus 1,
Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30 553 68 54,
www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 18:00. Admission 5/4. Closed until 17 Jan.
STASI PRISON
The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums, the Stasi
Prison shows the sheer brutality of this dictatorship. Used by
the Soviets and the GDRs secret service to extract confessions
in advance of (show) trials, the Hohenschnhausen prison
swallowed thousands of people who underwent horrific
physical and psychological torture in the chilling submarine
cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short film is followed
by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly explaining how
efficiently the prison system worked, and how nobody ever
escaped. Take tram M5 from Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder
Strae and walk 600 metres.QGenslerstrae 66, tel. +49 30
98 60 82 30, www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed,
Sat, Sun at 14:30. Admission 5.
THE WALL MUSEUM (MAUERMUSEUM)
Right next to the East Side Gallery, the longest remaining stretch
of the Berlin Wall, this new museum uses films of historic events
and interviews with witnesses plus some exhibits to tell the
story of the structure that split the city from 1961 to 1989. Not
to be confused with the Mauermuseum at Checkpoint Charlie.
QMhlenstrasse 78-80, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer
Strasse, tel. +49 30 82 71 77 17 40, www.thewallmuseum.com.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission 12.50/6.50.
43
Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast
of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an
old working-class district
in the former East Berlin
that came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrification here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Bergs best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.
POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG

Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstrae from U-Bahn
station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
into beautiful Husemannstrae, which was already
restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistrae
where youll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Strae
and amble down Lychenerstrae to pretty, caf-lined
Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstrae west, turn left
down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
station to Eberswalder Strae; youll soon reach the
popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Strae
with its excellent Wall Memorial.
HOTEL
PRECISE MYERS
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground floor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH2, Metzer Strae
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, [email protected], www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles
75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
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Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlins prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG2,
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
METZER ECK
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and thats the way the regulars
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages,
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoffel (fried potatoes),
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the first tavern
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG2, Metzer Strae 33,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76
56, [email protected], www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. . NGBS
DAILY 11.00 24.00
Die Schule
RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to fill up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buffet.QH2, Husemannstrae
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. -. TBSW
FAST FOOD
KONNOPKES IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Strae U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG1, Schnhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. .
INTERNATIONAL
Modern and light German food

on Berlins catwalk no.1
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50
[email protected]
www.restaurant-die-schule.de
U2
Eberswalder Str.
U8
Rosenthaler Platz
FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for flesh can grill n chill.
Staff in 1930s outfits serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail menu.QH1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
http://fleischlust.jimdo.com. Open 17:00 - open end.
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatzs gentrification,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schrder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise
visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this
is where to try flammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The
atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH2, Knaackstrae
37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30
442 92 29, [email protected], www.gugelhof.com.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . A
45
Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG2,
Schnhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB
JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this five-table joint, but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about 3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and staff speak
English.QH2, Rykestrae 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .
SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub
but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced offers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). Theres an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
dont make it out of the country and theres also a selection
of sherries.QH1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer
[email protected], www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.
CAFS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha flower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed caf. Serving up
coffee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
its one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells flowers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door and the smell of coffee and
fresh flowers combines very well.QH2, Kollwitzstrae 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
Noise and Smoke is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buffet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But its more than just a caf - the adjacent
hotel has modern and affordable double rooms.QG1,
Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.
Nightlife
BARS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG1, Lychner
Strae 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
@InYourPocket
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large living room is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shuffled to make room
for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres coffee and
pastries in the morning.QH1, Lettestrae 6, Prenzlauer
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.
CLUBS
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds fill the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
otherwise spacious cellar. Dont miss the mad monthly drag
party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH2, Am
Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstrae,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting off with a lesson
hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays theres five dancefloors
with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
in for free until 01:00.QSchnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
[email protected], www.soda-berlin.de. Open Thu
20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
Prenzlauer Berg
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and youll eventually find an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is filled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you wont find is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZELS MIETSHAUS
Gentrification has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzels apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about
its construction, utilities, furnishing and the often
squalid living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer
Berg and Berlin.QH1, Dunckerstrae 77, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21,
www.ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 16:30. Closed Wed. Admission 2/1.
PARKS AND GARDENS

MAUERPARK
The immensely popular Wall Park has no greenery
to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former
border strip thats especially busy on Sundays when it
hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit
Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where
anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd
of thousands.QG1, Eberswalder Strae, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.mauerpark.
info.
Shopping
BOOKS
SHAKESPEARE & SONS
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coffee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH1,
Raumerstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
Raumerstr. 8 [Helmholtzplatz], 40301770

www.tausche.de
FASHION & SHOES

TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable flaps in
over 100 different designs. Two
flaps are included and various insets
equip the bag to suit any occasion.
QH1, Raumerstrae 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@
tausche.de,
www.tausche.de.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.
MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
souvenirs and antiques - its all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark flea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG1, Bernauer Strae
63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, tel. 0176
29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
09:00-15:00.
Full contents online:

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KREUZBERG
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r.
burg
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.
POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG

Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
Luftbrcke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
and walk along genteel Bergmannstrae, perhaps
visiting a caf or the market hall, before walking south to
Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
airport, now a wonderful park.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
little Istanbul to Oranienplatz and follow the park to
the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstrae to
caf-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
line to lively Grlitzer Park. From here, go north into
Falckensteinstrae to discover more of Kreuzbergs street
art, or head south along Ohlauer Strae and across
Landwehrkanal into the trendy Kreuzklln district for
cupcakes and cocktails.
Sp
en
str.
tr.
Me
thfe
PR
L an
xem
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ler Str.
Str.
urger
Hamb
ab
k-
Friedrichstr.
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rstr.
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n
Grau
tr.
rS
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ha
ent
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chim
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ter
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tr.
gs .
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g
tr.
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u
Zirk
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tr.
ns
an
hls
Wei
nb
Eli
s
rs
Acke
GETTING THERE
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from
Friedrichstrae station on the U6; get off at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzklln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schnleinstrae and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.
Co .- bg.rS
E t en .
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s r
Fr St anz
D
tr.
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Brunn
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rf
endo
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.
str
ee
uss
elms
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me
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tr.
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str
r.
a
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r.
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str. o
T
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er
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lis
tr.
ofe
Sc
tr.
r S
litze
k
Ac
Thanks to a large Turkish

community and more
hippies, anarchists and
alternative folks than
you can shake a bong at,
Kreuzberg feels neither east
nor west. It was the black
sheep of West Berlin, literally
cornered up against the
death strip and left alone
to play loud music and
draw on the walls. By now,
the protesting students
of 1968 have grown grey
alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987,
Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional
May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into
a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is aMITTE
perfectly safe district to wander through, and
its all about backgammon at the mens clubs, caf-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular
Oranienstrae and Bergmannstrae drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neuklln district. Here,
the Kreuzklln area around Reuterstrae is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.
ees
hth
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str.
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Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs house
along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a calm, rustic
atmosphere in which to try regional specialities featuring things
such as goats cheese, dumplings, mustard sauce and compotes.
QG5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstrae, tel.
+49 30 692 33 00, www.altes-zollhaus.com. Open 18:00 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGBW
youtube.com/inyourpocket
HENNE
Who knew that the Germans fried chicken? Other than a few
Wursts, chicken is all thats served in this cosy corner tavern,
along with sides of coleslaw and mayonnaise-filled potato
salad. The crisp, salty skin gives you another reason for
quaffing yet another beer or wine. For a few euros, you get a
lot of wood-paneled atmosphere.QH4, Leuschnerdamm
25, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 614 77 30,
www.henne-berlin.de. Open Tues-Sat from 19:00; Sun
17:00-22:00. Mon closed. . NGBS
PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in
town. It feels crowded,
steamy and noisy,
but thats just part
of the authentic selfservice
atmosphere;
wait till you sink your
teeth in the fantastic food. The open kitchen uses
fresh vegetables and herbs that are flown in from
Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. Theres
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF5, Bergmannstrae
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00
- 24:00. . VBS
KARTOFFELPFANNE
The best-tasting potatoes in Berlin, Wiener Schnitzel
and vanilla pudding with Rote Grtze (fruit sauce) are all
found at the Pfanne. The good beer selection includes
Warsteiner and Weihenstephan.QF5, Burgherrenstrae
11, Tempelhof, MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30
892 59 49, www.kartoffelpfanne.de. Open 11:30 - 23:00.
-. TUNGBSW
49
Kreuzberg
THAIRESTAURANT
traditional healthy Thai cuisine
fresh and dainty
Sarods
ASIAN
KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlins first Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capitals gourmets as the
first one to serve authentic dishes that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. Its indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be difficult to
find a free table in the evening.QH4, Skalitzer Strae 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBSW
KIM QUI
The popular golden turtle serves authentic Vietnamese
food in pleasant surroundings at incredibly good
prices, with delicious hot pho soup dishes. Hot and
cold rice and noodle meals are complemented by
fruity shakes and exotic ice cream desserts.QF2,
Oranienstrae 168, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser
Tor, tel. +49 30 27 58 31 68, www.kim-qui.de. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Sat 13:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.
. TN G B S
Open daily 12:00-24:00

Sundays from 14:00
Friesenstrae 22
tel. 69 50 73 33
www.sarods.de
KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and affordable
Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken
skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps
and bamboo. Theres a range of cocktails and quality wines
too.QSdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49305779 41 99,
www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:0023:00, Sat 13:00
23:00.
SARODS
Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). Theres a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstrae 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33,
www.sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00.
. TGBSW
Kreuzberg
AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings and
antlers on the wall.QF5, Bergmannstrae 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 44 40, www.
austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. . TUBS
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and simple,
while the calm summer terrace in the garden overlooks a
historic apartment complex for Prussian officers.QF5,
Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmers-restaurant.de.
Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. -. TGBSW
FAST FOOD
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way,
youll order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little
pale in comparison to the ones with their pink skins on,
but you might earn an iota of respect from the hardboiled Fraus who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin
specialities you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables
are the fried burgers, Boulette.QF5, Mehringdamm 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68,
www.curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. . S
GLCK TO GO
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to
Indias Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious
protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic
spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with
organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious
Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date
chutney, and theres three other burgers to choose from.
Finish off with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus
from 6-8,50.QF5, Friesenstrae 26, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. . B
INDIAN
AAPKA
Tasty and affordable Indian curries, rice and tandoori dishes,
lassi and desserts in an orange-coloured space overlooking
a lively street crossing and the Landwehrkanal. The
Sunday brunch, from 11:00, is especially recommended,
but book a table.QMaybachufer 23, Neuklln, MU
Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 30 613 55 47, www.aapka.de.
Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . AB
Fantastic Berliner Currywurst,

quality organic and vegan snacks,
and a range of hot chili sauces.
Open daily 12:00-24:00
Sunday 12:00-21:00
Bergmannstrae 88
Berlin-Kreuzberg
www.bergmann-curry.com
AMAR
A large, cosy restaurant with modern furnishings, Indian
elements and big windows overlooking the terrace, filled
with eating locals and visitors in summertime. Amar serves
attractive Indian weekday lunch menus from just 4.40,
and delicious dinner courses, just as spicy as you need it
to be. After dinner, the cocktail menu usually convinces
the young clientele to stay longer. One of the most
famous and beloved Restaurant for good food, service,
atmosphere and cheep prices.QI4, Schlesische Strae
9, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 56
66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. Open 11:30-01:00, Fri, Sat
12:00-02:00. . TUNGBS
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with
quality organic Currywurst, fries,
meat balls and more. The menus
include the upmarket Rockefella
dish (served on porcelain, with a
glass of champagne), and theres
vegan wurst and burgers, and
sweet potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of
searing hot chilli sauce from the bottles on the board
of pain.QBergmannstrae 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54,
www.bergmann-curry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00.
51
Kreuzberg
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals
belly up to. Its a restaurant that
doesnt let its looks carry it: the
kitchen takes pride in its nouvelle
takes on German and Austrian standards. The menu
changes weekly, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten
(braised pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from
Russian to American-style, and as late as 16:00.
After dinner, check if anything is going down in the
Auster Club in the cellar.QH4, Pcklerstrae 34,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617
55 02, www.weltrestaurant-markthalle.de. Open
10:00 - 24:00. . B
INTERNATIONAL
ANKERKLAUSE
The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who come to
watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how peacefully
gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a good day, the
French toast with fruit can come out looking like its auditioning
for the Waldorf-Astorias buffet. The Mexican breakfast will
tide you over for two meals.QH5, Kottbusser Damm 104,
Neuklln, MU Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 30 693 56 49,
www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:00-04:00, Mon 16:0004:00. . TUNGB
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptows Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and
international meals to go with good sunset views towards
Oberbaumbrcke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors
theres drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch
the sea breeze.QI5, Eichenstrae 4, Treptow, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arenaberlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. -. NGBSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If theres such a thing as industrial charm, this is where to find
it; a fantastically designed restaurant with starkly modern and
white furnishings contrasting with raw factory bricks, peeling
paint and chains. The food served is imaginative gastronomy;
in summer, Sage opens earlier to serve lunch on its riverside
terrace with deckchairs and a beach bar.QH4, Kpenicker
Strae 18-20, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30
755 49 40 71, www.sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00.
Closed Mon. . TUEGBW
VAN LOON
Where better to eat fish than at this lovely restaurant
ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on the
Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large windows,
but the views better from the sundeck. Theres salmon,
herring and smoked fish specialities as well as a range of

special fish & chips. The daily menu has meat, vegetarian and
vegan meals too.QG5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7, Kreuzberg, MU
Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 62 93, www.vanloon.de.
Open 09:00-01:00. . TENGBW
ITALIAN
+39 PITRENTANOVE
Plus 39 is what you dial to reach Italy - but ringing wont
be necessary here as a corner of that country can be found
in this cosy restaurant right opposite the Viktoriapark.
Italian chefs dish up great XXL pizza, fresh pasta, risotto,
homemade bread and other delicacies.QMckernstrae
73a, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06, www.piu39.de.
Open 11:30 - 00:00.
CALIGARI
A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez
neighbourhood of Neuklln, with freshly made pasta,
soups, salads and deserts. Theyre planning Supper Club
nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things could
happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neuklln, tel. +49 30 52 64
98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00 - 23:00.
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Jeff Koons porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious Italian
restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food, and a great
terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try the Strasburgo
flammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard and Tirol bacon.
QH4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60, www.cicciolina-berlin.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. -. TUNGBSW
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there are
additional changing dinner options too. For after-dinner
cocktails simply go next door to the Wrgeengel bar.QH4,
Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor,
tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.gorgonzolaclub.de. Open
18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 02:00. . B
+39 pitrentanove
Kreuzberg
OSTERIA N1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood fixture has a
fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive
trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from
different parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order.
Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange
sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too.
Choose from six different lunch menus from 7.QF5,
Kreuzbergstrae 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00
- 01:00. . B
TRENTASEI
Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian
wines and fresh fish specialities at Trentasei, referring to
the 36 nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit
interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood, plus
old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer Str. 34,
Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, [email protected],
www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
JAPANESE
RICE UP
A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn station
sells delicious organic bento box take-away meals,
consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various fillings: vegan,
veg, fish or chicken. Theres coffee, chai, lemonade and
smoothies too. Also in Mitte, at Friedrichstrae 114.QH5,
Kottbusser Damm (Schnleinstrae U-Bahn station),
Neuklln, MU Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 151 50 10 13
88, www.rice-up.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00.
Closed Sun. . S
BEER GARDENS
DAS EDELWEISS
The goods platform of the old Grlitzer Bahnhof train
station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the
Edelweiss restaurant and caf. Theres all-day breakfast,
great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products,
drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. Its especially
well-positioned for people-watching; Grlitzer Park
attracts Berlins most varied crowd.QH5, Grlitzerstrae
Mckernstrae 73A Berlin Kreuzberg

tel. +49 30 70 09 42 06 [email protected]
Open 11:3000:00
1-3 (Grlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open
09:30-02:00. . TUEBW
GOLGATHA
The most gruesome end youll meet at this Biergarten at the
southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching
their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the tablefootball and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a
view of the playground and football field. DJ music begins
most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance floor.QF5,
Katzbachstrae (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der
Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.de.
Open from 10:00. . TUBSW
53
Kreuzberg
BEER HOUSES
DOLDEN MDEL BRAUGASTHAUS
A fun little brewery bar named after hop flowers, with 20
craft beers on tap and many more great beers in bottles everything from Pilsener, IPA, Belgian beers and Trappist to
Bock. Order the full board for 5 samplers of their best beers.
Theres also cider and wine, and the varied food menu lists
meals and snacks from steak and schnitzel to vegetarian
dishes.QMehringdamm 80, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 77 32
62 13, [email protected], www.doldenmaedel.de.
Open 11:30 - 00:30, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:30.
CAFS
CAF AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michaels
church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was
once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is
a sunny terrace caf. View of the water and the rustling tall
green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city
while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you
believe this area was once filled with rubble, and part of the
Walls death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they
offer a choice of cocktails.QH4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91,
www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. .
TUNGBSW
CAF RIX
A fabulous caf thats completely worth the trek out to
Berlins shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.
Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town,
attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is one of
the last remaining entertainment halls in the area, dating
from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings and big mirrors.
Its just perfect for sipping coffee and munching on cake,
or for a well-prepared meal. Combine it with a concert at
the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit to Rixdorfs old village
square and the lush Krnerpark.QKarl-Marx-Strae 141,
Neuklln, MU Karl-Marx-Strae, tel. +49 30 686 90
20, www.caferix.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . TUNGBSW
SALON SCHMCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood caf that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The food
is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast, lunch and
fantastic home-made juice - just make your own selection
of fruit. Come evening and there are cocktails and DJs, and
even the occasional living room concert.QI4, Skalitzer
Strae 80, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49
30 69 00 47 75, www.salon-schmueck.de. Open 09:0002:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00. . TNGBSW
Read more reviews online:

Nightlife
BARS
FREISCHWIMMER
After a five-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow
the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station
to this peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In
summer use the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather
heat lamps help keep away the chill.QI5, Vor dem
Schlesischen Tor 2a, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor,
tel. +49 30 61 07 43 09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.
de. Open Mo-Fri from 12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00.
TUENGBW
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF4,
Grossbeerenstrae 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E
MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark dcor can heighten your wooziness if
youve had one round too many.QH4, Manteuffelstrae
41, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
ROSES
Its all so tactile here - both the fuzzy red walls and
people packed end to end in this tiny kitsch-o-mat.
The music is clubby and the upbeat energy makes it a
good choice for a solo night out. The ladies behind the
bar are favourites of Siegessule, the local gay listings
magazine.QH4, Oranienstrae 187, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 65 70. Open 22:0004:00.
WRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuels
film El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a great
place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a dozen
tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all off, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH4, Dresdener
Strae 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49
30 615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from
19:00. . B
Kreuzberg
CLUBS
JUNCTION BAR
Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is fine for
a four-man blues band, but dios mio for the tenpiece Afro-Cuban ensembles. Live music draws an
ethnically and generationally mixed audience every
night of the week. After the band, a DJ keeps everyone
tight on the dance floor.QF5, Gneisenaustrae 18,
Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694
66 02, www.junction-bar.de. Open 20:00-04:00.
EN G B
SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
thats home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or
Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the
friendly door staff.QH4, Oranienstrae 190, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.
so36.de. Check their website for opening times.
UENG
WATERGATE
This club right on the edge of the Spree River is great for
spying on Universal Music headquarters across the water,
even if the crowd here would never dance to their pop
artists. Also in view (and right next door) is the turreted
Oberbaumbrcke, which makes an odd backdrop to
techno, house, or any guest DJ on the upper or lower dance
floors.QI4, Falckensteinstrae 49, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 28 03 94, www.watergate.de. Open Wed, Fri, Sat from 24:00. Admission 812. UENGB
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlins rare live-music venues brings
in hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. Theres
an occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in
the front rooms make conversation manageable. Bring
earplugs for the stage area.QH5, Wiener Strae 20,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74
701, www.wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00.
ENB
JAZZ CLUBS
YORCKSCHLSSCHEN
This Kreuzberg institution has been here for over a century,
gathering fame in the 1970s as an artists watering hole
and now a hub of local social life. Theres a busy bar that
features regular live music, with the emphasis on traditional
jazz, swing and black rhythmnblues. Concerts take place
on Wed, Fri and Sat night and Sun afternoon. Diner here
is very nicely priced.QF5, Yorckstrae 15, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 215 80 70, www.
yorckschloesschen.de. Open 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00 03:00. . TEBSW
BERLIN IN BOOKS
BERLIN COMPANION
One of Berlins most fascinating
aspects is the sheer endless number of amazing and tragic stories
that illuminate the citys past and
present importance. Blogs delight in uncovering the weird and
wonderful tales, none better than
Kreuzberged.com, whose creator
has now published Notmrsparkers Berlin Companion
or I Didnt Know That About Berlin. Her collection of
Berlin facts and trivia includes everything you need
to know about the names of streets and districts, remarkable buildings, public transport (ever heard of the
Magnet-Bahn?), wonderful things invented in Berlin
(computers, seamless condoms and artificial limbs!),
illumination (30,000 gaslights), tunnels (and the bunkers beneath Viktoriapark) and of course stories concerning East and West. Essential reading for the heaps
of mindboggling trivia.
Notmrsparkers Berlin Companion (2016, ISBN
9783864605284) by Beata Gontarczyk-Krampe is
for sale for 19 at via www.book-on-demand.de/
shop/14931 and www.amazon.de.
Sightseeing
MUSEUMS
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlins best museums is unmistakably
recognisable by the Douglas C47 plane suspended
above the main building. The huge complex set
in and around an old freight station rail depot has
planes, trains, cars, bikes, computers, phones, radios
and much more. Outside there are windmills and a
brewery. Theres a hands-on Spectrum science centre
for children too.QF4, Trebbiner Strae 9, Kreuzberg,
MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40, www.sdtb.
de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 6/3,5.
GAME SCIENCE CENTER
The new Game Science Center is a small, interactive
museum of the future, run by a team of game
developers. Introducing a number of innovative
technologies and playful projects, visitors can
learn about and try many new ways to interact
with computers - for example with gestures or eye
movements. Try out the Oculus Rift VR glasses, the
Nagual Dance installation, or play table tennis with
the computer in Pong Invaders.QCharlottenstr. 1,
Kreuzberg, www.gamesciencecenter.de. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/8.
55
Kreuzberg
HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks,
tools, videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunneldigging attest to necessity and desire being the mother
of invention. Visit this museum for dramatic stories of
separated lovers, freedom-seeking families, and fedup senior citizens in the GDR who breached the Wall.
The museum also has art interpreting the concrete division of
the city, and an exhibit on human rights movements.QF4,
Friedrichstrae 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae,
tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.de.
Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 12,50/9,50.
JDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel
Libeskind contains a moving perspective on the many
ways in which German life and Jewish history are
intricately interwoven. The interior contains dark voids for
contemplation, but the exhibits cover much more than
the Holocaust chapter of Jewish history in Germany.QF4,
Lindenstrae 9-14, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel.
+49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission 5/2,50, special
exhibitions 4/2, combined ticket 7/3,50.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Martin Gropius, great uncle of Walter Gropius,
a founder of the Bauhaus school of design. The building
was completed in 1881 and originally served as a royal art
museum. Like most of central Berlin, it ended the war in a
badly damaged state and wasnt re-opened until 1981. Today,
under the auspices of the Berliner Festspiele, the MartinGropius-Bau hosts excellent touring exhibitions.QF4,
Niederkirchnerstrae 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Tue.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all
that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS)
Office. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the
adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to
highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military
and security groups that were headquartered in this area,
and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast
across Europe. The most important lesson to take home
is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive
thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF4,
Niederkirchnerstrae 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel.
+49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.
PARKS & GARDENS

TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Berlins most amazing space is this historic and wide open
airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and
was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi

lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders.
Theres even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that
turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as
well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof
and Boddinstrasse.QF/G6, Columbiadamm, MS/U
Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March
06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:0021:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan
07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkels memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the
corner of Kreuzbergstrae and Grobeerenstrae for an
eyeful of the parks waterfall, constructed in the late 19th
century. Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between
the shallow, tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean
back against the graffiti-laden monument to take in
the panoramic view. Towards the back of the park, past
a playground and off the Bacci field, is the Golgotha
beer garden. Running parallel to Kreuzbergstrae is a
small petting zoo where children and goats get to meet
and bleat.QF5, Kreuzbergstrae, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm.
Shopping
BOOKS
BUCHHANDLUNG MORITZPLATZ
A good selection of quality books on Berlin, literature,
art and architecture. The wonderful Aufbau Haus also
has artists equipment and a caf.QG4, Prinzenstrae
85 (Aufbau Haus), Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 61 67 52 70,
www.buchhandlung-moritzplatz.de. Open 10:00 20:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
FASHION AND SHOES

KONZEPT86
A concept store inside the hip The Wye art house, with
unique and high-quality clothes for women and men,
accessories and shoes by Berlin-based designers.QH4,
Skalitzer Strae 86 (The Wye), Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, [email protected]. Open 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon, Sun.
JEWELLERY
SOUS & CHROBOK
The workshop and atelier of jewellery artists Susanne
Sous and Kamila Chrobok allows visitors to see the
manufacturing process as well as the dazzling final results.
Minimalist, patterned and colourful rings, necklaces and
accessories are available - including some intriguing
intentionally misformed rings.QKreuzbergstr. 26,
Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 52 28 51 22. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun.
City tours
B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.
Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture
Berlin from below

Cold War and WW II bunker tours
Different underground tours Mar Nov daily Dec Feb Thur Mon
Subway Gesundbrunnen (U8), Brunnenstr. 105 www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Anzeige
in your
pocketcorner
2011.indd
1 though youll need
Theres
a story
on every
in Berlin,
a guide to hear it. Its a huge, fascinating city and attractions
are fairly far-flung, so plan your itinerary well. If youre here
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.
BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS

BERLIN CITY TOUR
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary;
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfrstendamm 14,
BERLIN UNDERWORLDS
Berlin Underworlds allows you to experience Berlins

history from an unusual perspective, through its
underground installations dating back to the Cold War,
World War II and earlier.
Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlins
Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also offered in several
other complexes usually not accessible to the public. The
following tours are held in English; check the website for
all dates and times, and for tours in German, Spanish,
Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Tours take 90 minutes,
the M tour is 2 hours.
Tour 1, Dark Worlds: a bunker from the Nazi era.
Tour 2, From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris:
visit the the rubble-filled Humboldthain Flak Tower, a
devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Tour 3, Subways, Bunkers, Cold War: a political history
of Berlin from an unusual perspective.
16.02.15
08:52
the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on
or hop-off
as you like. Theres also a narrated Wall & Lifestyle tour taking
in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets 15/12/5.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES

Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-off
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
languages. Kurfrstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
the two main starting points, but you can get on and
off at some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are
Tour M, Breaching the Berlin Wall: subterranean
escapes from East Berlin to West Berlin.
Unterwelten also has a fascinating seasonal exhibition
about the Nazis megalomanic plans to turn Berlin into the
Welthauptstadt Germania, the World Capital City, with
documents, photos and models. The multimedia exhibition
Myth of Germania Vision and crime allows visitors to
peek inside Hitlers mind and explore the complex topic of
his city planning , and see what came of the plans.
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, Brunnenstrae 105
(Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station, southern entrance),
tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. Tours 11/9, tour M 14/11.
No reservation required, but check tour times and
languages online at www.berliner-unterwelten.de.
Myth of Germania exhibition open Apr-Oct, ThuSun 11:00-18:00, Nov-Mar Sat & Sun 11:00-16:00,
admission 6/5, 3 in combination with a tour,
www.mythos-germania.de.
57
City tours
Berliner Bren Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX
Sightseeing (www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus
Verkehr Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30,
www.berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets
22/11. Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) 16,50/11.
LINO CITY TOURS
Cruise around Berlins main sights in style, seated in an
open-top Piaggio Ape Calessino vehicle. Knowledgeable
guides drive these cute Italian three-wheeled cars around
the city, offering general one-hour highlights tours to
longer tailor-made trips around Berlins most interesting
suburbs. Call to book, or look for them on Pariser Platz
near Brandenburger Tor.Qtel. +49 30 80 57 84 70,
www.lino-city-tours.com. Tours from 25 per person.
WALKING & CYCLING TOURS

ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS
After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, 12)
youll know all about Berlins subcultures, the graffiti and
stencil art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the
gay scene, and the squatter and anti-fascist movements.
Knowledgeable resident artists poke at Berlins dark,
fuzzy underbelly on a variety of walks; there are also
free short walks (daily at 11:00 and 13:00), twilight
tours, a street art workshop and an anti-pubcrawl.
QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162 819 82 64,
www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets 10-20.
BERLIN LOCALS
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by
limo, lead by local German historians who can often relate
historical events to their familys personal experience. Tour
themes range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich
to street art, railways and architecture. The guides are also
licenced for Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are
in English or German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@
berlinlocals.com, www.berlinlocals.com. Tours 40 per
hour, 250 per day.
INBERLIN TOURS
Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at fixed
times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, [email protected],
www.inberlin.de. Tickets 10-16.
ISHERWOODS NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable Sodom on the Spree
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene - in explosive political
circumstances. The young gay British writer Christopher
Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To Berlin
(of Cabaret movie fame). This excellent one-hour tour
through Isherwoods Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is
spiced up with quotes and references to notorious 1920s
party-goers like Anita Berber and Marlene Dietrich.
QD4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42,
[email protected], www.cabaret-berlin.com.
Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand. Book ahead. Tickets
15.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel.
+49 30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets 12/10.
CHARTERTRIPS ON
HISTORICAL BOATS
... e.g. Moonlight-Trips with
Aphrodite or Oskar
10245 Berlin-Stralau, near Tunnelstrasse 36
Tel. (030) 246 47 99 60
www.schiffskontor.de
SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS

The Berlin blog dedicated to slow travel offers quirky
cultural-historical tours. In small groups you explore
Berlins most fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in
West Berlin, a walk on Kreuzbergs wild west side, a trip
along the Wall, down lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march
through Kaiser Wilhelms Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.
com/tours. Tickets 15.
RIVER TOURS
MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on
Berlins waterways. Theres the rustic open-top Oskar from
1930, or rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty
from 1950 in which youll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a flowing scarf.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60,
www.schiffskontor.de.
Wellness
Oderberger Stadtbad | Martin Nicholas Kunz
With dozens of wellness centres, Berliners are spoiling

themselves like never before. A day-pass at most
places means at least a work-out with state-of-theart machines, swimming pool, whirlpool and sauna,
if not three. To that you can add massages of every
imaginable kind (from deep tissue for the particularly
tense, to oriental, aromatic candle-lit or bubble
massages and then some) and then a mid-way
relaxation room where you can lay back and slowly
prepare to return to the real world. Go on, get soaked.
Berlin In Your Pocket is not responsible for wrinkly
fingers.
SPA
LIQUIDROM
Try out urban bathing at this combination of a deluxe
spa with quirky extras. Apart from the impressive
domed warm salt water pool there are saunas and
Roman baths, a sunny Japanese terrace with an onsen
bath, massages and a hamam ceremony. Float around
to a relaxing light and music show with live music
performed on Thursdays to Saturdays. Music includes
DJ sets, Jazz, electronic music, harp and didgeridoo.
QF4, Mckernstrasse 10, Kreuzberg, MS Anhalter
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 258 00 78 20, www.liquidromberlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00.
Admission from 19,50 for 2 hours.
SALTERO SALZ SPA

Two sparkling white salt rooms create a healthy recuperative
environment for curing ailments (especially for asthma
patients) though you can also just relax there while
undergoing 30-45 minute of halotherapy.QLietzenburger
Str. 54, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49
176 70 09 91 25, www.saltero.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Fri
14:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue, Thu, Sat, Sun.
VABALI
A corner of Indonesia in Berlin, Vabali is a luxurious
Balinese-style spa and wellness centre just north of
the Hauptbahnhof station with saunas, pools, garden,
rest areas, many optional treatments, a restaurant and
even DaySpa suites.QSeydlitzstr. 6, Mitte, MS/U
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 911 48 60, www.vabali.de.
Open 09:00 - 24:00. From 20,50 for 2hrs.
SWIMMING POOLS
ODERBERGER STADTBAD
After being out of service for three decades, the beautiful
and historical Oderberger baths have been renovated, and
supplemented by a spa and hotel. The 20-metre pool is
open five days per week for swimmers; check the opening
hours beforehand.QOderberger Str. 57, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 81 82 80 76 76, www.hotel-oderberger.
berlin. Admission pool 6/4, with sauna 19/15.
59
Directory & Street Register

BUSINESS CONNECTIONS
AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE
QCharlottenstrae 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de.
DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER
(CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Strae 29,
Mitte, MU Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80,
www.dihk.de.
EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstrae 76-79, Mitte, MU
Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80,
www.australian-embassy.de.
IRELAND QF-3, Jgerstrae 51, Mitte, MU
Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20,
www.embassyofireland.de.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Emergencies, ambulance, fire tel. +49 30 112;
Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.
HOSPITALS
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE
QKlingsorstrae, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
+49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
CHARIT UNIVERSITTSKLINIKUM QF-3,
Schumannstrae 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstrae 70-71,

Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 45 70,
www.britischebotschaft.de.
BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstrae 95, Mitte,

MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 204 21 24,
www.berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.
USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3,

Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.
GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU

Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16,
www.gls-german-courses.de.
Ackerstrae F/G2
Adalbertstrae H4
Admiralstrae G/H5
Albrechtstrae F3
Alexanderplatz G3
Alexanderstrae G3
Alexanderufer F2/3
Alexandrinenstrae F4
Alt-Moabit C3/E3
Alte Jakobstrae
F4
Alte Schnhauser Strae
G2
Altonaer Strae
D3
Am Friedrichshain
H2
Am Karlsbad
F4
Am Kupfergraben
F3
Am Ostbahnhof
H4
Anhalter Strae
F4
Arndtstrae F5
Augsburger Strae
C/D4
Auguststrae F/G2
Axel-Springer-Strae F4
Barnimstrae H2/3
Baruther Strae
F5
Bayerischer Platz
D5
Bebelplatz F3
Behrenstrae F3
Belforter Strae
G/H2
Bergmannstrae F/G5
Bernauer Strae
F/G1/2
Bethaniendamm H4
Beusselstrae C2
Bismarckstrae B/C3/4
Bleibtreustrae C4
Blcherstrae F/G5
Bodestrae F3
Btzowstrae H/I2
Brandenburger Tor
F3
Breitscheidplatz C4
Brckenstrae H3/4
Brunnenstrae F/G1/2
Blowstrae E4/5
Bundesallee C4/6
Charlottenstrae F3/4
Chausseestrae F2
Choriner Strae
G2
Christinenstrae G2
Danziger Strae
G1/I2
Dorotheenstrae F3
Dresdener Strae
G4
Dunckerstrae H1
Ebertstrae F3
Engeldamm H4
Erkelenzdamm F4
Ernst-Reuter-Platz C3
Fasanenstrae C4/5
Fehrbelliner Strae
G2
Fischerinsel G3
Franzsische Strae
F3
Friedensstrae H2/3
Friedrichstrae F3/4
Gartenstrae F1/2
Gendarmenmarkt F3
Georgenkirchstrae H2/3
Georgenstrae F3
Gertraudenstrae G3
Geschw.-Scholl-Strae F3
Gipsstrae G2
Gitschiner Strae
F4
Glinkastrae F3
Gneisenaustrae F/G5
Grlitzer Strae
H/I4/5
Grlitzer Ufer
I5
Gormannstrae G2
Greifswalder Strae
H/I1/2
Grolmannstrae C4
Grobeerenstrae F5
Groe Hamburger Strae G2/3
Gruner Strae
G3
Hallesches Ufer
F4
Hardenbergplatz C4
Heidestrae E2
Heinrich-Heine-Strae F4
Heinrichplatz H4
Hohenstaufenstrae D5
Immanuelkirchstrae H2
Invalidenstrae E3/G2
Johannisstrae F3
John-Foster-Dulles-Allee E3
Kaiserdamm A/B4
Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee B/C2
Kantstrae B/C4
Karl-Liebknecht-Strae G3
Karl-Marx-Allee G/H/I3
Kastanienallee G2
Kl. Hamburger Strae

F2
Kleiststrae D/E4
Knaackstrae H2
Knesebeckstrae C4
Kochstrae F4
Kollwitzplatz H2
Kollwitzstrae G/H2
Konstanzer Strae
B4/5
Kpenicker Strae
H/I4
Kottbusser Damm
H5
Kottbusser Strae
H5
Krausnickstrae G3
Kreuzbergstrae F5
Kurfrstendamm A5/C4
Kurfrstenstrae D/E4
Landsberger Allee
H/I2
Lausitzer Strae
H4/5
Legiendamm H4
Leipziger Platz
F4
Leipziger Strae
F/G4
Leuschnerdamm H4
Lindenstrae F/G4
Linienstrae F/G2
Lobeckstrae F4
Luisenstrae F2/3
Ltzowufer D/E4
Manteuffelstrae H4/5
Marburger Strae
D4
Mariannenplatz H4
Marienstrae F3
Markgrafenstrae F3/4
Martin-Luther-Strae D4/6
Matthikirchstrae E4
Mauerstrae F3/4
Maybachufer H5
Mehringdamm F5
Mehringplatz F4
Meinekestrae C4
Melchiorstrae H4
Metzer Strae
G/H2
Mittelstrae F3
Mckernstrae F4/5
Mohrenstrae F3
Molkenmarkt G3
Mollstrae H2/3
Mommsenstrae B/C4
Monbijoustrae F3
Motzstrae C/D4/5
Mhlendamm G3
Mhlenstrae H/I4
Mulackstrae G2
Museumsinsel F3
Muskauer Strae
H4
Niederkirchnerstrae F4
Niederwallstrae F3
Nollendorfstrae D/E5
Oberbaumstrae I4
Olivaer Platz
B4
Oranienburger Strae F/G2/3
Oranienplatz F4
Oranienstrae F/G4
Otto-Braun-Strae G/H3
Otto-Suhr-Allee B/C3
Pappelallee G/H1
Pariser Platz
F3
Paul-Lincke-Ufer H5
Perleberger Strae
D/E2
Platz der Vereinten Nationen H3
Platz vor dem Neuen Tor
F2
Potsdamer Platz
E4
Potsdamer Strae
E4/5
Prenzlauer Allee
H1/2
Prinzenstrae F4
Pcklerstrae H4
Puschkinallee I5
Quedlinburger Strae
B3
Rathausstrae G3
Reichenberger Strae G4/I5
Reichpietschufer E4
Reichstagufer F3
Reinhardtstrae F3
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz G2
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae G2/3
Rosenthaler Strae
G2/3
Rykestrae H2
Saarbrcker Strae
G2
Savignyplatz C4
Schiffbauerdamm F3
Schloplatz F3
Schlostrae B3
Schlterstrae C4
Schneberger Strae
F4
Schneberger Ufer
E4
Schnhauser Allee
G1/2
Schnleinstrae H5
Schumannstrae F3
Seydelstrae F4
Simon-Dach-Strae I4
Skalitzer Strae
G4/I4
Sophienstrae G2/3
Spandauer Damm
A/B3
Spandauer Strae
G3
Sredzkistrae H2
Stralauer Allee
I4
Stralauer Platz
H4
Stralauer Strae
G3
Straburger Strae
G2
Strae der Pariser Kommune I3/4
Strae des-17. Juni
C/E3
Stresemannstrae F4
Sdstern G5
Tauentzienstrae D4
Tieckstrae F2
Tiergartenstrae D/E4
Torstrae F/G2
Tucholsky-Strae F3
Turmstrae C/D2
Uhlandstrae C4/5
Unter den Linden
F3
Urbanstrae G/H5
Veteranenstrae G2
Vostrae F4
Wadzeckstrae G/H3
Waldemarstrae H4
Wallstrae F/G4
Warschauer Platz
I4
Warschauer Strae
I3/4
Wassertorplatz F4
Weinbergsweg G2
Weinstrae H2/3
Werderstrae F3
Wiener Strae
H/I4/5
Wilhelmstrae F3/4
Winterfeldtplatz D5
Winterfeldtstrae D/E5
Wrther Strae
G/H2
Yorckstrae E/F5
Zimmerstrae F4
Zinnowitzer Strae
F2
Zionskirchstrae G2
Zossener Strae
F5
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er
mmerstr.
bo
An
Melc
ne
r
d
nstr
Sim
RAW Gelnde
er
hiors
MercedesK
. chke-Str.
uts
.
tr.
pe
Rev
Ora
Benznic
Enge
Sp
S
nien
ale
ker
ldam
Arena
r S
str.
r e str.
z-Str.
U
tr
Warschauer
Str.
Beth m
Str.
e
anie
ndamm
Ea
Rud
st S
Ritt
Moritzplatz
Roth
olfs
erst
ide
MariannenK
Wa
ertr.
r.
Ga
U
pe
ldem
platz
ller
nic
arst
str.
y
ke
r.
r
W
G
OranienStr
rb
ran
S
t
r
r
.
e
.
l
N
en
gel
aun
Mu
Co
platz
n st
ufe
str.
ynst
Wa
ska
rin
Fr.-K
r
Ora
ldem
r.
uer
Ritt
Schlesisches Tor
ths
nien
r.
erst
Ober au
arst
Str.
tr.
P
r.
str.
b
r.
Neu
U
S
enb
t
Lausitzer
r.
rala
st
Wa
Heinrich
urge
s
s
.
uer
Platz
Reic
tr
Sc
erto
r Str.
S
- platz
r
e
rstr.
tz
h
hle
en- Tor
Kottbusser
kali
S
A
l
lee
U
sis
WassertorU Str.
ch
Spreewaldber
kalitzer
Grlitzer Bahnhof
e
ger
U Gitschiner Str. platz S
Wr
platz
Gitschiner Str.
St
ang
Str.
Wie
r
o
.
Prinzenstr.
o
G
l
e
r
rli
ner
te
lstr
Bcklertze
.
Str.
Ufer
Grlitzer r St
Johan
park
Reic
r.
it e r s
tr.
hen
Park
str. Bl
ber
ger
c
M.-H
Fraenkelufer
offm
ers
Str.
ann
Wie
tr.
Schlesischer
Planufer
ner
-St
Ma
r.
r.
Busch
S
t
y
R
r.
bac
Pau
eich
Urban
h
le
u
Linc
nbe
fer
str.
Dieff
o
k
r
r
ger
e-U
da
enba
tr.
Schnleinstr.
U
K
rs
S
f
n
ne
i
e
rk
e
chstr
B
r
fho str.
Str.
.
lzs
tr.
Ma
Sanderstr.
yba
neisenaustr.
c
h
Man
.
itius ufer
U
.
str
str.
Pflgerstr
.
He
ll
str
ide Kr
Gneis
rte
lbe
enau
K
str.
Schmoller- rger
U Sdstern
Urb
Pfl
St
ans
g
platz
Bergmannstr.
r.
ers
tr.
Ha
tr.
rze
Hasen
rS
W
ese
heide
t
- Str.
r
.
Hermannrstr.
W
er
rnau
r.
Index
+39 pitrentanove
52
Aapka
51
Adlon Kempinski
30
Admiralspalast
12
Adria
14
Aigner
23
Alexa Centre
30
Alliiertenmuseum
39
Alpenstueck
21
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
58
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Amar
51
Ankerklause
52
Anna Blume
46
April
33
Astro-bar
43
Aufsturz
24
August Fengler
46
Austria
51
Babylon Mitte
14
Barcomi's Deli
24
Berghain
43
Bergmann Curry
51
Berlin, Berlin
40
Berlin City Tour
57
Berliner Dom
27
Berliner Hof Am Tauentzien 40
Berlinische Galerie
55
Berlin Locals
58
Berlin Plaza
40
Black Box Cold War
28
Blue Man Group
14
Borchardt
23
Brandenburger Tor
26
Brecht Keller
22
Brhan Museum
39
Buchhandlung Moritzplatz 56
Caf am Engelbecken
54
Caf am Neuen See
36
Caf im Literaturhaus
36
Cafe Kalwil
36
Caf Rix
54
Caligari
52
Central Kino
14
Christmas Eco-Market
Sophienstrasse
10
Cicciolina
52
CineStar IMAX & Original
14
City Circle Buses
57
C/O Berlin
39
Cocolo
24
Computerspielemuseum
43
Crack Bellmer
43
Cupcake Berlin
42
Curry 36
51
Daimler Contemporary Berlin 28
Das Edelweiss
53
Das Stue
39
Der Mauerwinzer
25
Deutsche Oper Berlin
19
Deutscher Dom
27
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
28
Deutsches Historisches Museum
29
Deutsches Technikmuseum 55
Deutsch-Russisches Museum 43
Diekmann
35
Die Schule
45
Dolden Mdel Braugasthaus 54

Dressler
35
Duke
36
Einhorn
36
El Dorado
36
Ellington Hotel
40
English Theatre Berlin
15
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
25
Eventim
12
Facil
23
Fernsehturm
30
First Floor
34
Fischers Fritz
23
Fleischlust
45
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
47
Francucci's
36
Franzsischer Dom
27
Freischwimmer
54
Friedrichstadt-Palast
14
Fhrerbunker
27
Galander
54
Game Science Center
55
Geburtstagsklub
46
Gedchtniskirche
38
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer 29
Gemldegalerie
29
Glory Duck
42
Glck To Go
51
Golgatha
53
Gorgonzola Club
52
Green Door
37
Grenander Morning Glory
37
Grosz
35
Grner Salon
25
Gudrun Sjdn
30
Gugelhof
45
Hackesche Hfe
14
Hamburger Bahnhof
29
Hard Rock Cafe
34
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 56
Hefner
38
Hekticket
12
Henne
49
Hilton
31
Honigmond & Garden Hotels 31
Hoppetosse
52
Hotel de Rome
31
House of Weekend
25
Hugos
35
InBerlin Tours
58
InterContinental
39
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
58
Jolly
22
Jdisches Museum Berlin
56
Junction Bar
55
Kaffee Burger
25
Kamala
22
Kartoffelpfanne
49
Kaufbar
42
Kempinski Bristol
39
Keule
41
Kilkenny Irish Pub
26
Kimchi Princess
50
Kim Qui
50
Kinnaree Thai
50
Kino in der KulturBrauerei
14
Knese
33
Koka 36
12
Komische Oper
12
Konnopke's Imbi
45
Konzept86
56
Konzerthaus Berlin
12
Kookaburra Comedy Club
15
Kulturbrauerei
47
KunstHalle
29
Le Petit Royal
35
Lino City Tours
58
Liquidrom
59
Locanda
36
Lutter & Wegner
23
Macondo
42
Mandala
31
Marriott
31
Martin-Gropius-Bau
56
Matrix
43
Mauerpark
47
Maximilians
21
Mein Haus am See
25
Memorial to the Murdered Jews
of Europe
28
MeMu Menschen Museum 29
Metzer Eck
45
Milchbar
54
MS Schiffskontor
58
Museum fr Asiatische Kunst 39
Museum fr Film und Fernsehen
30
Museum fr Naturkunde
30
Mutter Hoppe
21
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
26
Nikolaiviertel
26
Nola's am Weinberg
23
Nostalgic Christmas Market 10
Oderberger Stadtbad
59
Olympic Stadium
38
Original Berlin Walks
58
Osteria N1
53
Otito
22
Ottenthal
34
Pagode
49
Palace
39
Panorama Caf
22
Panoramapunkt
29
Papagena
12
Paris-Moskau
23
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz
31
Patio
23
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
46
Postbahnhof Club
43
Potsdamer Platz
26
Precise Myer's
44
Quatsch Comedy Club
15
Reichstag
27
Reingold
25
Reinhard's
24
Renger-Patzsch
33
Restaurant Schlossgarten
33
Restauration 1900
45
Rice Up
53
Riehmers
51
Ritter Sport ChocoWorld
30
Roses
54
Roter Salon
26
Rotisserie Weingrn
21
Sachiko Sushi
36
Sage Restaurant
52
Salon Schmck
54
Saltero Salz Spa

59
Samowar
36
San Diego Steakhouse
42
Santiago
46
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
40
Schall und Rauch
46
Schloss Charlottenburg
38
Schneewei
41
Schnitzelei
34
Schneberger Weltlaterne 33
Schwarzwaldstuben
21
Shakespeare & Sons
47
Sheraton Berlin Grand Hotel
Esplanade
40
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
58
SO36
55
Soda Club
46
Sofitel Berlin Kurfrstendamm
40
Sous & Chrobok
56
Spielbank Berlin
25
Sputnik
14
Staatsoper im Schillertheater 12
Stndige Vertretung
21
Stasi Museum
43
Stasi Prison
43
Suksan
34
Sushi Circle
24
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm 46
Swisstel Berlin
40
Sylter Hof
40
tausche Taschen
47
Tempelhofer Freiheit
56
The Digital Eatery
24
The Harp
38
The Wall Museum
43
Tiergarten
39
Tipi am Kanzleramt
14
Topographie des Terrors
56
Traube
24
Trentasei
53
Union Jack
38
Vabali
59
Van Long
22
Van Loon
52
Viktoriapark
56
VOX
23
Waldorf Astoria
40
Wall Panorama
30
Watergate
55
Weihenstephaner
21
Weinstein
46
Weltrestaurant Markthalle
52
Westin Grand
31
What do you fancy love?
37
Wild at Heart
55
Wintergarten Varit
14
Wohnzimmer
46
Wrgeengel
54
Yorckschlsschen
55
Yosoy Tapas-Bar
24
Zillemarkt
34
Zille-Stube
21
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
47
Zollpackhof
24
Zum Nussbaum
22
Zur Letzten Instanz
22
Zwiebelfisch
37
Zwlf Apostel
36
ENTERTAINMENT HIGHLIGHTS
BB Promotion GmbH presents by arrangement with SLAVA and Gwenael Allan
03.-08.01.17 Admiralspalast Berlin

BB PROMOTION GMBH IN ASSOCIATION WITH STOMP PRODUCTIONS AND GLYNIS HENDERSON PRODUCTIONS PRESENTS
24. 29.01.17 Admiralspalast Berlin

www.stomp.de
Tickets: 030 - 479 974 99

www.bb-promotion.com
(0,14 /Min. aus dem Festnetz,
01805 - 2001 Mobilfunk max. 0,42 /Min.)

www.eintrittskarten.de
The world of
original English versions.
All day long Germanys widest range of undubbed
blockbusters and Arthouse films under one roof at Sony Center:
Explore nothing but brand-new English originals at CineStar
Original and dive into both English and German 3D-feature films
and 3D-documentaries at CineStar IMAX on Berlins largest
screen! Info and tickets on cinestar.de

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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Enjoy Berlins Christmas markets

Berlins sports teams

Eisbren ice hockey & more

Martin-Gropius-Bau Berliner Festspiele

Getting around by S&U

Essential travel tips

All about Berlins top teams

Galleries & Exhibitions 11

Culture & Events 12

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

Genteel western Berlin

The delights of the city centre

Workers paradise, students playground

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

U Facilities for the disabled

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

Spas and Swimming pools

A Credit cards accepted

Directory & Street register

Maps & Index

Expensive; more than 30 per person.

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

Dinner price guide

The gentrified north

December 2016 - January 2017

Whatever you do this winter, stay toasty warm and

Get the In Your Pocket

Sales & Circulation

Copyright notice & Editors note

4 Berlin In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the worlds leading

you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke

CRIME & SAFETY

VISAS AND ENTRY

DRINKS & ALCOHOL

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Min Temp (C)

Max Temp (C)

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)

City Press GmbH

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports

The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy

FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)

FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

Nicknamed Eisern Union (iron union), FC Union is the

Berlins main football team plays home matches at

All the latest news

Christmas Eco-market on Sophienstrasse

Berlins many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmrkte)

21st Environment and

In 2013, Londons famous Royal Botanic Gardens at Kew

HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES

10 Berlin In Your Pocket

Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays

Galleries & Exhibitions