E Tech PDF

E-TECH ENGINE
SERVICE MANUAL
(Includes Left-Side Redesign)
OCTOBER 2000
(REVISED)
5-106
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-ii
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10_125erb.fm Page 2 Tuesday, April 18, 2006 11:43 AM
ERRATA SHEET ENGINE
Crankshaft Center Main Bearing

Specification Update
Effective January 2006, Mack Powertrain Engineering has
widened the crankshaft center main bearing runout
specification. The maximum allowable crankshaft runout
specification was changed from 0.005 in. (0.127 mm) to
0.007 in. (0.178 mm). The manuals listed below are affected
by this change.
Reference:
Engine Manuals
5-101 E7
5-106 E-Tech
5-107 E7G
5-110 ASET AI/AMI
5-111 ASET AC
JANUARY 2006
(NEW ISSUE)
MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2006

MACK ENGINE SERIES
SERVICE
BULLETIN
NUMBER:
DATE:
MODEL:
SB-210-034
5/14/02
E-Tech
(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)
MISCELLANEOUS FASTENER CHANGES E-TECH ENGINES

The following fastener changes were made on E-Tech engines:
Injection Nozzle Hold-Down Screws Beginning 3/00, the injection nozzle holddown screws having the 15 mm external hex head have been changed to a new screw
(part No. 421GC2116M) that has a 16 mm internal hex head.
Rocker Shaft Mounting Bracket Bolts Beginning 4/00, the bolts and washers
used to secure the rocker shaft mounting brackets to the cylinder head have been
changed to a flange-head bolt (part No. 65AM5010). Tightening torque value for this
new fastener remains the same at 40 lb-ft (50 Nm).
Air Compressor Mounting Screw Beginning 8/00, the original hex-head screw has
been changed to a flange-head screw (part No. 27AM16). This change was made so
that the mounting screw clamp load is distributed over a wider area of the flat washer.
Camshaft Thrust Washer Beginning 10/00, the two screws and washers used to
secure the camshaft thrust washer to the block were changed to a flange-head screw
(part No. 66AM44). Tightening torque value for this fastener remains the same at 15 lbft (20 Nm).
Cylinder Head Capscrews Beginning 6/01, the cylinder head capscrews and the
separate hardened flat washer were replaced in production with capscrews having
captured washers (part number series 400GC317M). This change was implemented to
prevent the possibility of omitting or installing more than one washer during assembly.
Additionally, the outside diameter of the captured washer was reduced slightly
(approximately 0.030) to accommodate the redesigned cylinder head cover that was
phased into production 7/01. Cylinder head capscrew torque remains the same at 205
lb-ft (278 Nm).
Flywheel-to-crankshaft mounting bolts Beginning 9/01, bolts having captured
washers (part Nos. 419GC31M and 419GC31M2) were released into production to
replace the previously used bolts and separate hardened flat washer used to secure
the flywheel to the crankshaft. Flywheel-to-crankshaft mounting bolt torque remains the
same at 185 lb-ft (250 Nm).
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) hold-down screws Beginning 11/01, new hold-down
screws (part No. 421GC2123M) were released into production for the electronic unit
pumps. These screws are dimensionally the same as the previously used screws, but
conform to a more stringent specification that controls minor surface forming defects to
a greater degree than for common fasteners.Torque of the EUP hold-down bolts has
been changed from 42 lb-ft (57 Nm) to 60 lb-ft (81 Nm).
Turbocharger Mounting Nuts Beginning 5/02, new turbocharger mounting nuts
were released into production. These nuts (part No. 142GC247M) are composed of
silver-plated stainless steel to provide greater resistance to heat than the previous nuts.
Additionally, these nuts have the Spiralock self-locking thread feature to prevent
loosening in service.
SB-210-034 Page 1 of 1
SERVICE P UBLICATIONS , ALLE NTOWN , PA 18105
E-TECH ENGINE
SERVICE MANUAL
MAY 2006 REPRINTED 2.5M

SEPTEMBER 2004 REPRINTED 2.5M
APRIL 2003 REPRINTED 2.5M
JUNE 2002 REPRINTED 2.5M
OCTOBER 2001 REPRINTED 2.5M
OCTOBER 2000
(REVISED SUPERSEDED ISSUE JULY 1999)

5-106
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ATTENTION
The information in this manual is not all inclusive and
cannot take into account all unique situations. Note that
some illustrations are typical and may not reflect the
exact arrangement of every component installed on a
specific chassis.
The information, specifications, and illustrations in this
publication are based on information that was current at
the time of publication.
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a
retrieval system, or be transmitted in any form by any
means including electronic, mechanical, photocopying,
recording, or otherwise without prior written permission
of Mack Trucks, Inc.
ii
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
TABLE OF CONTENTS
iii
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Advisory Labels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Service Procedures and Tool Usage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
ABOUT THIS MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Changes from the Existing E-Tech Service Procedures Manual . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
ABOUT THE E-TECH ENGINE AND ITS SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine Information Plate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Engine Serial Number Identification . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
E-TECH ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Electronic Unit Pumps . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
V-MAC III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
Belt Drive System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
J-Tech Engine Brake . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 24
Camshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Valve Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Low-Pressure Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32
Fuel Filtration System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
High-Pressure Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35
High-Pressure Fuel Injection Lines . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Fuel Injector Assemblies . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Cylinder Block . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
Crankshaft . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Block Heater for Front (Water Pump) Location . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
Cylinder Head . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41
Cylinder Head Gasket . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43
Gear Train . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44
Air Compressor . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Power Steering Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Vibration Damper Hub . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
Front Cover . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Centri-Max Oil Filter Breather Vent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
GLOSSARY OF TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 55
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 57
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
V-MAC III Diagnostics . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE LIFT CHECKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Camshaft Timing Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
Camshaft Lobe Lift Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66
CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE AIR COOLING TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
Special Tool Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CMCAC Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CMCAC Pressure Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
Restriction Pressure Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Core Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CMCAC Preventive Maintenance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Cylinder Head and Head Gasket Check In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71
Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak Check In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head Coolant Passages Leak Check In Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75
Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check Out of Chassis . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 76
ENGINE BRAKE TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Operational Tests . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
Electrical Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79
Hydraulic/Mechanical Troubleshooting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80
Final Test . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
Troubleshooting Guide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 83
MAINTENANCE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 87
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM TENSIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Manually Tensioned System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
Automatically Tensioned System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88
FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 89
Crankcase Breather Filter Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Oil Filter Element Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
Fuel Filter Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93
Coolant Conditioner Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95
ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
Removal from Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Filter Element Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 101
Mounting Engine in Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 103
Alternator Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 105
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 107
Coolant Conditioner Element Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
Thermostat Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 110
Coolant Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 111
Air Inlet Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Water Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Turbocharger Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 113
Exhaust Manifold Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 114
Engine Wiring Harness Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) and Cooling Plate Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 115
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
Oil Fill Tube Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Air Compressor Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 117
Valve Cover and Spacer Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push Rod Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 119
Nozzle Holder Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 121
Cylinder Head Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 122
Vibration Damper and Crankshaft Hub Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Oil Pan Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
Oil Pump Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
Front Cover Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 126
Auxiliary Shaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 127
Camshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 128
Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
Flywheel Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
Flywheel Housing Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 132
Main Bearing Cap Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
Crankshaft Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Special Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
Cylinder Sleeve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 135
Cleaning and Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 136
Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 137
Cup Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
Pipe Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
H-Ring Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
Camshaft Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145
Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 148
Cylinder Sleeve Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 152
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 157
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
General Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Crankshaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
Crankshaft Gear Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 163
Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
Flywheel Inspection and Resurfacing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND CAMSHAFT BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Auxiliary Shaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
Camshaft Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 168
CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Connecting Rod Inspection and Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
Piston Inspection and Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 76
Piston Ring Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 177
Assembling Connecting Rod to Piston . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 180
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Special Tools Required . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Inlet and Exhaust Valve Removal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 181
Cylinder Head Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Fire Ring Groove Cutting . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 185
Valve Guide Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 188
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Valve Seat Insert Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 191
Valve Spring Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 196
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 197
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
Cylinder Head Cup Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 199
Cylinder Head Pipe Plug Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 200
Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Rocker Arms . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Disassembly (without/with Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Reassembly (without Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Reassembly (with J-Tech Engine Brake) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Oil Cooler Assembly Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
Oil Pump Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Oil Cooler Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
Water Pump Reconditioning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 218
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Inspection . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Installation of Electronic Unit Pump Plunger Spring and Seat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 219
Fuel Injector Nozzle Cleaning . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 221
ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
General Instructions . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Crankshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
Main Bearing Cap Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224
Piston and Connecting Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
Flywheel Housing Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 234
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
Flywheel Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
Valve Lifter Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Camshaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242
Camshaft Core Plug Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 243
Camshaft Idler Gear Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244
Auxiliary Shaft Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245
Oil Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
Front Cover Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247
Crankshaft Front Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
Crankshaft Hub Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Vibration Damper Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249
Oil Pan Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
Cylinder Head Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252
Exhaust Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255
Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
Push Rod Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259
Valve Yoke Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 260
Rocker Arm and Engine Brake Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261
Valve Cover and Spacer Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
Oil Fill Tube Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265
Engine ECU/Cooling Plate Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266
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Air Compressor Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 267
Electronic Unit Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 268
Engine Wiring Harness Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
Turbocharger Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270
Water Pump Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 271
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272
Coolant Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 274
Air Inlet Manifold Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Thermostat, Housing and Seal Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276
Coolant Conditioner Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
Engine ECU Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
Alternator Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Removing Engine from Engine Stand . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 281
Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . 282
ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
Engine Installation into Vehicle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
IN-CHASSIS PART/COMPONENT PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286
Camshaft Replacement (Engine in Chassis) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 288
Engine Brake Control Valve Replacement . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 293
Valve Lifter H-Ring Installation Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Fuel Injection Timing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Valve Yoke, Valve Lash and Engine Brake Adjustments . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
Engine Speed and Position Sensors Installation and Adjustment . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 304
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) Calibration . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 305
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION AND OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Filter Element Installation . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Engine Lubrication System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Turbocharger . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
Cooling System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Fuel System . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
Engine Operational Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
Run-In Check . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 308
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 309
E-TECH ENGINE MECHANICAL SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Performance Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
Material and Dimensional Data . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 311
E-Tech Component Torque Specifications . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 328
E-TECH ENGINE LUBRICANT AND SEALANT SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 329
FASTENER TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Fastener Selection and Installation. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
Fastener Sizes and Types . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 331
viii
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TABLE OF CONTENTS
SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 333
ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS (FLUIDS FLOW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Cooling System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
Lubrication System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
Fuel System Flow Diagram . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 336
SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 337
E-TECH ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
Special Tools for Engine Overhaul . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 338
V-MAC III Special Tools . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
INDEX . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 343
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NOTES
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INTRODUCTION
INTRODUCTION
Page 1
INTRODUCTION
SAFETY INFORMATION
Advisory Labels
Cautionary signal words (Danger-Warning-Caution) may appear in various locations throughout this
manual. Information accented by one of these signal words must be observed to minimize the risk of
personal injury to service personnel, or the possibility of improper service methods which may damage
the vehicle or cause it to be unsafe. Additional Notes and Service Hints are used to emphasize areas of
procedural importance and provide suggestions for ease of repair. The following definitions indicate the
use of these advisory labels as they appear throughout the manual:
Activities associated with Danger indicate that death or serious personal

injury may result from failing to heed the advisory. Serious personal injury
may be equated to career-ending injury.
Activities associated with Warning indicate that personal injury may result
from failing to heed the advisory. In this case, personal injury is not equated to
career-ending injury, but results in possible change in quality of life.
Activities associated with Caution indicate that product damage may result from
failing to heed the advisory. Caution is not used for personal injury.
A procedure, practice, or condition that is essential to emphasize.
A helpful suggestion that will make it quicker and/or easier to perform a procedure,
while possibly reducing service cost.
Page 2
INTRODUCTION
Service Procedures and Tool Usage
Anyone using a service procedure or tool not recommended in this manual must first satisfy himself
thoroughly that neither his safety nor vehicle safety will be jeopardized by the service method he selects.
Individuals deviating in any manner from the instructions provided assume all risks of consequential
personal injury or damage to equipment involved.
Also note that particular service procedures may require the use of a special tool(s) designed for a
specific purpose. These special tools must be used in the manner described, whenever specified in the
instructions.
1. Before starting a vehicle, always be seated in the drivers seat, place the
transmission in neutral, be sure that parking brakes are set, and
disengage the clutch.
2. Before working on a vehicle, place the transmission in neutral, set the
parking brakes, and block the wheels.
3. Before towing the vehicle, place the transmission in neutral and lift the
rear wheels off the ground, or disconnect the driveline to avoid damage to
the transmission during towing.
Engine-driven components such as Power Take-Off (PTO) units, fans and fan
belts, driveshafts and other related rotating assemblies, can be very
dangerous. Do not work on or service engine-driven components unless the
engine is shut down. Always keep body parts and loose clothing out of range
of these powerful components to prevent serious personal injury. Be aware of
PTO engagement or nonengagement status. Always disengage the PTO when
not in use.
REMEMBER,
SAFETY . . . IS NO ACCIDENT!
Page 3
INTRODUCTION
Mack Trucks, Inc. cannot anticipate every
possible occurrence that may involve a potential
hazard. Accidents can be avoided by recognizing
potentially hazardous situations and taking
necessary precautions. Performing service
procedures correctly is critical to technician safety
and safe, reliable vehicle operation.
Use hoists or jacks to lift or move heavy

objects.
NEVER run engine indoors unless exhaust

fumes are adequately vented to the outside.
Be aware of hot surfaces. Allow engine to

cool sufficiently before performing any
service or tests in the vicinity of the engine.
The following list of general shop safety practices

can help technicians avoid potentially hazardous
situations and reduce the risk of personal injury.
DO NOT perform any services, maintenance
procedures or lubrications until this manual has
been read and understood.
Keep work area clean and orderly. Clean up

any spilled oil, grease, fuel, hydraulic fluid,
etc.
Only use tools that are in good condition,

and always use accurately calibrated torque
wrenches to tighten all fasteners to specified
torques. In instances where procedures
require the use of special tools which are
designed for a specific purpose, use only in
the manner described in the instructions.
Perform all service work on a flat, level

surface. Block wheels to prevent vehicle
from rolling.
DO NOT wear loose-fitting or torn clothing.

Remove any jewelry before servicing
vehicle.
ALWAYS wear safety glasses and protective

shoes. Avoid injury by being aware of sharp
corners and jagged edges.
Do not store natural gas powered vehicles

indoors for an extended period of time
(overnight) without first removing the fuel.
Never smoke around a natural gas powered

vehicle.
Page 4
INTRODUCTION
EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL
CODE
GROUP 400 STEERING, AXLES, WHEELS

AND TIRES, DRIVELINE
The organization of MACK service manuals has

been upgraded to standardize manual content
according to a reference system based on
component identification. The new reference
system will help link the information contained in
this publication with related information included
in other MACK service/warranty publications,
such as associated service bulletins, warranty
manuals, and MACK Service Labor Time
Standards.
GROUP 500 BRAKES, AUXILIARY

SYSTEMS
The system is based on a numerical code, the

first digit of which identifies the general
component grouping as listed here:
GROUP 000 GENERAL DATA
GROUP 100 CHASSIS
GROUP 200 ENGINE
GROUP 300 CLUTCH, TRANSMISSION,
TRANSFER CASE AND PTO
GROUP 600 CAB, TRUCK BODY

GROUP 700 ELECTRICAL
The second two digits of the three-digit code are
used to identify the system, assembly or
subassembly, as appropriate, within each of the
groupings. The codes applicable to this
publication are shown at the beginning of each
procedure, as necessary, to guide you to specific
component information.
Additionally, a two-character alpha code (i.e.,
[NV] RINGS, PISTON) may be referenced with
each procedure. This alpha code, in combination
with the three-digit Group number, identifies the
specific assembly, sub-assembly or part, and
directly relates to the first five positions of the
operation code listed in MACK Service Labor
Time Standards.
Examples:
Numerical Code
Page 5
INTRODUCTION
ABOUT THIS MANUAL
Changes from the Existing E-Tech
Service Procedures Manual
Mack Trucks, Inc. has made many major
improvements to this E-Tech Service
Procedures Manual, with changes to both content
and organization. This is a complete manual,
describing engine features and the operation of
major systems as well as providing
comprehensive overhaul procedures,
specifications and adjustments.
All specifications and torque values are given in
English and metric measurements. Critical torque
values are also included in the text, eliminating
the need to refer to SPECIFICATIONS section
each time a specified torque value is required.
The Special Tools list has been revised to include
all special tools required for a complete overhaul.
Warnings, cautions, notes and service hints help
the technician service the engine safely and
efficiently.
The engine disassembly procedures show how to
remove components in an order that requires the
least amount of handling. Where appropriate, it
includes general information needed to properly
service that component.
Various component bench procedures guide the
technician in disassembly, cleaning, inspection
and assembly of each component. Each bench
procedure helps in determining if the part is
serviceable or should be replaced.
Page 6
The engine reassembly procedure includes stepby-step instructions for reassembling the engine.
This helps to ensure proper installation and
longer service life.
Under Engine Setup and Adjustments, the latest
setup information is provided for adjusting all
E-Tech engine models. Engines perform best
and conserve fuel most efficiently when adjusted
properly.
Two additional procedures are included as guides
for removing and reinstalling the engine. Both
sections are generic in nature since E-Tech
engine installation procedures vary from one
vehicle style to another. As such, the procedures
are intended as a checklist to remind the
technician of all necessary tasks.
While troubleshooting procedures are similar for
most diesel engines, this manual includes only
those that pertain to the E-Tech engine. The
TROUBLESHOOTING section contains
symptom-related questions as well as tests to
help the technician consider all possible problem
sources.
This service manual also includes applicable
information from active service bulletins and
service letters since publication of the E-Tech
Service Procedures Manual dated July 1999.
INTRODUCTION
ABOUT THE E-TECH ENGINE
AND ITS SERVICE
Development of the E-Tech engine has been

driven by three basic requirements. It was
designed to:
This publication is intended to provide technicians

with a working knowledge of the E-Tech
engine, including both early-production and
current-production versions.
Meet projected exhaust and noise emissions

regulations.
Meet customer demands for improved fuel

economy, driveability and engine braking.
The E-Tech engine has undergone a left-side

redesign. Changes include a new plate-type oil
cooler and a new oil filter mounting arrangement.
This new oil filter arrangement includes a new
centrifugal oil filter assembly, where the
centrifugal filter assembly is now mounted upside
down, and the external oil drain is eliminated.
This new centrifugal oil filter is called Centri-Max
PLUS.
Compete in a world market.
Improved fuel economy.
The engine electronic control unit (EECU) has

been relocated to the left side of the engine and
is mounted on a new one-piece inlet manifold.
Relocating the EECU has eliminated the need for
the EECU cooling plate, and has also brought
about a design change to the unit pump front
outboard heat shield. Additionally, with the
change to the one-piece inlet manifold, the fuel
filter mounting adapter is new and is located
slightly forward of the previous location.
Increased throttle response (time to

90 percent torque is faster with the
E-Tech).
More retarding horsepower through a newly

designed J-Tech Engine Brake from
Jacobs.
Descriptions of these design changes and the

other features are provided in the DESCRIPTION
& OPERATION section. Additionally, the service
effects of these changes on removal, installation,
disassembly, assembly, setup and adjustment
procedures, etc., are included in the respective
sections of this publication.
Although the drive to reduce emissions and noise

levels is primarily the result of government
mandates, the E-Tech engine is designed to
provide customers with an improved engine over
the existing E7 engine it replaces. Specific
improvements include:
Mack Trucks, Inc. is looking beyond the borders

of North America to increase its market and bring
the quality, toughness and technology associated
with the MACK name to a worldwide audience.
The current environment of global regulations
concerning exhaust emissions, noise and other
factors has leveled the playing field on an
international basis. This means that the
improvements made to meet the North American
environmental regulations can now be applied
worldwide.
The E-Tech engine is used in MACK trucks and
European Renault VI trucks.
Page 7
NOTES
Page 8
IDENTIFICATION
IDENTIFICATION
Page 9
IDENTIFICATION
ENGINE MODEL
IDENTIFICATION
Block 3 ADR Regulations

r
An X in block three means the engine has

been certified to meet Australian emissions
regulations.
Two dashes in block three mean the engine

does not meet Australian emissions
regulations.
Engine Information Plate

The E-Tech engine information plate is located
on the top of the front cylinder head cover (back
cover for LE and MR chassis). This plate includes
information concerning:
r
Engine model, serial number and 11GBA

part number.
Advertised horsepower at rated speed rpm.
Emissions regulations to which the engine

conforms and other pertinent information
required by emissions regulations.
Block 4 Model Year

r
Block 5 Federal Family

r
A 12-digit number stamped in block five

denotes the Federal Family to which the
engine belongs for emissions certification
purposes.
All domestic engines will have a 12-digit

Federal Family number in block five.
Inlet and exhaust valve lash settings and

engine brake slave piston lash setting.
The following explanations are provided to aid in

interpreting some of the key information found on
the engine information plate.
The four-digit number stamped in block four

represents the year in which the engine was
certified.
Block 6 California Family

Block 1 U.S. EPA Regulations
r
An X in block one means the engine meets

United States EPA regulations for the year
stamped in block four.
Two dashes in block one indicate the engine

does not meet United States EPA
regulations for the year stamped in block
four. This is only permissible with certain
export engines. All domestic engines will
have an X in block one.
If the engine meets California emissions

regulations, the same 12-digit number
stamped in the Federal Family block is
stamped in block six.
If the engine does not meet California

emissions regulations, there will be two
dashes in block six.
Block 7 Initial Injection Timing

r
E-Tech engines do not have an initial

injection timing, as this is controlled
electronically.
E-Tech engines will have NA stamped in

block seven.
Block 2 California Regulations

r
An X in block two indicates the engine

meets California emissions regulations for
the year stamped in block four. This engine
is referred to as a 50-state engine and can
be sold in any state throughout the U.S.
Two dashes stamped in block two mean the
engine does not meet California emissions
regulations. If an engine has an X in block
one and two dashes in block two, it is
referred to as a 49-state engine, meaning it
is not certified for sale in California.
Page 10
Block 8 Engine Brake

r
This block is only used when the engine is

equipped with an engine brake. The
stamping in this block indicates the engine
brake slave-piston lash setting.
Figure 1 illustrates the location of the information

plate and Figure 2 illustrates its content.
IDENTIFICATION
1
Figure 1 Engine Information Plate Location
Page 11
IDENTIFICATION
2
Figure 2 Engine Information Plate
Engine Serial Number Identification

In addition to the engine information plate on the
front cylinder head cover, the engine is also
identified by the engine serial number stamped
into the cylinder block. This serial number is
located on the block right side just below the
turbo oil drain tube flange as shown in Figure 3.
3
Figure 3 Engine Serial Number
Page 12
DESCRIPTION & OPERATION
Page 13

E-TECH ENGINE DESIGN
FEATURES
The E-Tech engine evolved from the E7 PLN
(commonly referred to as the E7). The four
primary design features that differentiate the
E-Tech engine from the E7 engine are as
follows:
r
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) fuel injection

system
V-MAC III electronic control system
Poly-v belt drive system
J-Tech engine brake system from Jacobs
These major changes resulted in subsequent

improvements and redesign of related
components within the engine.
The EUP is very similar to a unit injector. The

primary difference is that the EUP delivers fuel
through a fuel injection line to a conventionalstyle nozzle-holder assembly, whereas a unit
injector has a nozzle mounted directly on it.
The EUP is capable of providing very high fuelinjection pressures. The pump is controlled by a
high-speed solenoid valve (see Figure 4)
responding to electronic signals from the
V-MAC III engine control module. This electronic
control provides a greater timing range. The
combination of higher pressures and greater
timing control improves the combustion process
and optimizes engine performance. This enables
the E-Tech engine to conform to more stringent
emissions regulations while providing
performance and fuel economy improvements.
4
Electronic Unit Pumps

Electronic Unit Pump (EUP) technology, which
has been utilized in the heavy-duty industry for
many years, has been adapted for the E-Tech
engine to achieve:
r
Optimum performance
Lower emissions
Simplified service
More effective pump/engine diagnostics

(individual cylinders can be isolated)
An EUP is a single-plunger fuel-injection pump,

one per cylinder, driven by a third lobe on the
engine camshaft. The pump roller follower
(tappet) is in contact with the engine cam lobe.
Figure 4 EUP Components
Electronic unit pumps for engines produced

through approximately late 3rd quarter 2000 were
fitted with three O-rings on the pump housings.
Pumps on engines produced later than 3rd
quarter 2000 are fitted with two O-rings in the top
and bottom grooves. The O-ring in the center
groove has been eliminated.
Page 14

The EUP design does not include a helix on the
pump plunger. Fuel delivery is controlled entirely
by the solenoid valve. To start fuel delivery, the
V-MAC III control system allows current to flow to
the solenoid, closing the solenoid valve and
trapping fuel in the pump. As the plunger moves
upward, fuel is delivered through the highpressure line to the fuel-injector nozzle assembly.
When current flow to the solenoid is stopped, the
solenoid valve opens and fuel in the pump then
flows to the cylinder block fuel return gallery.
Refer to Figure 5.
The EUP system, using proven industry

technology, is well adapted to troubleshooting.
When required, an individual EUP can be
replaced with a minimum of downtime.
The right-side heat shields on an E-Tech

engine are a mandatory part of the engine
(Figure 6). The heat shields must be reinstalled if
they are removed for maintenance or repair.
Failure to do so will result in damage to the
sensitive electronic components.
Because the unit pumps are located in close

proximity to the exhaust manifold, heat shields
have been added to prevent excessive heat from
reaching the EUP components.
Figure 6 Heat Shields (with Right-Side Mounted

EECU)
1. Heat Shield Attachment Points
Figure 5 Electronic Unit Pump
Current production E-Tech engines contain

EUPs with three O-rings. On future production
engines the center O-ring will be eliminated.
Present EUP service kits available through
MACK service parts do not contain the center
(brown) O-ring.
Page 15

V-MAC III
The V-MAC III engine control system has been

developed specifically for the E-Tech engine.
Features include electronic drivers and
diagnostics for unit pumps, separate engine and
vehicle control units, and a revised wiring
harness. These features make V-MAC III
applicable only to the E-Tech engine.
V-MAC III ELECTRONIC CONTROL UNITS
The Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU) is
located on the right side of the engine (Figure 8)
in early-production engines. Characteristics of the
engine design, such as heat shields, vibration
isolation, and running low-pressure fuel through
the EECU mounting plate (to cool it), permit the
EECU to be mounted directly on the engine in the
right-side location.
8
Figure 7 Heat Shields (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor
2. Redesigned Heat Shield
Figure 8 V-MAC III Engine EECU (Right-Side Mounted)
Page 16

For current-production engines, the EECU is
relocated to the left side of the engine (Figure 9)
and mounted on a new one-piece air inlet
manifold (Figure 13). With this relocation, the
fuel-cooled backing plate is no longer necessary
and has been eliminated. The new harness is
routed around the rear of the engine, and the
module and harness connections are mounted
vertically at the forward end of the module. This
provides an improved environment and less
chance for water infiltration at the harness
connectors.
With the two-module design, a more efficient and

reliable electronic communication network,
known as multiplexing, can be used. Multiplexing
essentially means that inputs and outputs to and
from one control unit are batched and sent as a
package to the other control unit via a single,
high-speed communication line. Inherent to this
system is a significant reduction in the length and
number of wires, specifically those which must
pass through the bulkhead, as well as the related
connections.
V-MAC III SYSTEM SENSORS

There are a total of eight engine-mounted
sensors and one vehicle-mounted sensor. Seven
of the sensors provide input for the operation of
the V-MAC III engine control system, while the
remaining two sensors provide input for the dash
gauges. The dash gauge oil temperature sensor
is optional.
The following list and Figure 10 through Figure 19
identify the nine sensors and the features and
location of each. Three of the V-MAC III sensors
will be described in detail. These are the fuel
temperature sensor and the engine speed and
engine position sensors. The engine speed and
engine position sensors are functionally similar to
the E7 RPM/TDC and TEM sensors, but are later
designs, quite different from the E7 sensors.
Figure 9 EECU (Left-Side Mounted)

1. Engine ECU
2. Air Inlet Manifold
The cab-mounted Vehicle Electronic Control Unit

(VECU) provides a base for future development,
such as total vehicle systems and wireless
communication.
For enhanced quality, an engine-mounted EECU
allows the complete engine system (EECU,
harness and sensors) to be assembled at the
engine manufacturing/assembly plant, then
tested and verified on site. The entire engine
electronic package can be left undisturbed during
the vehicle assembly process.
Engine Speed Sensor
Fuel Temperature Sensor
Oil Pressure Sensor
Ambient Air Temperature Sensor (see Note)
Boost Air Temperature Sensor
Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor
V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor
Engine Position Sensor
Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor

(optional)
Page 17
The chassis-mounted ambient air temperature

sensor was not available with early-production
engines. It was phased into production beginning
approximately mid-July 1999 for CX model
chassis, mid-September 1999 for CH, CL, RD8,
MR, DM and DMM model chassis and early
November 1999 for RD6, RB and LE model
chassis. The sensor is mounted off-engine and
supplies temperature input to the engine
electronic control unit (EECU), so that the V-MAC
system can determine a more accurate indication
of inlet air temperature.
Location of the sensor depends upon chassis
model, but in general, it is located at the front of
the chassis mounted either on the front
crossmember behind the bumper, on a hood
hinge, hood hinge bracket, body, spring bracket,
or grille guard assembly.
10
Figure 10 V-MAC III Engine-Mounted Sensor Locations (Pre-Left-Side Redesign)

1. Fuel Temperature Sensor (Behind Fittings)
2. Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor
3. V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor
4. Boost Air Temperature Sensor
5. Engine Speed Sensor (on Left Side of Flywheel Housing)
Page 18
6. Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor (on Left Side of Oil

Pan)
7. Oil Pressure Sensor
8. Engine Position Sensor (on Engine Front Cover)

11
Figure 11 V-MAC III Engine-Mounted Sensor Locations (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)
1. Fuel Temperature Sensor (Behind Fittings)
2. Dash Gauge Coolant Temperature Sensor (on Side of
Coolant Manifold)
3. V-MAC III Coolant Temperature Sensor (on End of Coolant
Manifold)
4. Boost Temperature Sensor (on Top of Air Inlet Manifold)
On current-production engines with the left-side

mounted EECU, there are three harness
connectors adjacent to the oil pressure sensor.
One connector, the oil pressure sensor
connector, is always used. The other two
connectors are for an optional oil temperature
sensor. One connector (color-coded black) is for
the oil temperature sensor used with the standard
dashboard, and the other connector (color-coded
gray) is for the oil temperature sensor used with
the electronic dash. Oil temperature sensor part
No. 64MT2116 is used with the standard
dashboard and sensor part No. 64MT2103 is
used with the electronic dashboard.
5. Oil Temperature Sensor (on Filter Mounting Bracket)

6. Oil Pressure Sensor (on Filter Mounting Bracket)
7. Engine Speed Sensor
8. Dash Gauge Oil Temperature Sensor
9. Engine Position Sensor (on Engine Front Cover)
12
Figure 12 V-MAC III Sensor Locations at Filter

Mounting Bracket (with Left-Side Mounted EECU)
1. Oil Temperature Sensor
3. Filter Mounting Bracket
Page 19

mounted EECU, the boost temperature sensor
port has been moved to the manifold inlet area
(depending upon chassis model, the manifold
inlet is at the front, or the center). There is a large

boss at the rear of the manifold for boost air
supply to the air compressor and boost pressure
access ports.
13
Figure 13 V-MAC III Sensor Locations with Front Air Inlet Manifold (Left-Side Mounted EECU)
1. Boost Temperature Sensor
2. Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket Boss
3. Port for Boost Pressure Test Gauge
4. Boost Pressure Port for Line-to-Dash Gauge or Boost
Pressure Sensor
Page 20
5. Boost Air Supply to Air Compressor

6. Engine Electronic Control Unit Isolator Mounting Stud,
Threaded Bosses

14
Figure 14 V-MAC Sensor Locations with Center Air Inlet Manifold (Left-Side Mounted EECU)
A. Side View
B. Top View
1. Fuel Filter Mounting Bracket Boss
2. Port for Boost Pressure Test Gauge
3. Boost Temperature Sensor
An interim version front manifold was used on

engines with the new oil cooler/filter arrangement,
but without the engine ECU relocation.
4. Boost Pressure Port for Line-to-Dash Gauge or Boost

Pressure Sensor
5. Boost Air Supply to Air Compressor
6. Engine Electronic Control Unit Isolator Mounting Stud,
Threaded Bosses
The V-MAC III sensors have different mounting

methods, or mounting threads, compared to the
similar V-MAC II sensors:
r
V-MAC III engine speed and engine position

sensors are flange-mounted with a mounting
screw.
V-MAC III oil pressure, boost temperature,

fuel temperature and coolant temperature
sensors have English pipe threads.
Dash gauge sensors for coolant and oil

temperatures are threaded sensors with
English pipe threads, the same as the E7
with V-MAC II.
Page 21

Fuel Temperature Sensor
On early-production engines with a right-side
mounted EECU, a fuel temperature sensor is
provided at the top of the secondary fuel filter
mounting adapter (Figure 15) installed in a boss
adjacent to the outlet fitting. The V-MAC III
system monitors fuel temperature at the
secondary fuel filter outlet, as fuel is being
supplied to the cylinder block fuel gallery inlet.
This fuel temperature data improves accuracy of
the mpg fuel consumption information shown on
the Co-Pilot display.

mounted EECU, the fuel temperature sensor is
located at the fuel cylinder block fuel gallery inlet
(Figure 16). This location is standardized for all
fuel filter arrangements, simplifying and
improving the line routing.
16
The fuel temperature sensor is the same as the

coolant temperature sensor used at the rear of
the water manifold location. The illustration that
follows shows a CH/CL/DM engine-mounted, fuel
filter adapter. The RD/MR/LE chassis-mounted
secondary fuel filter mounting adapter has a
similar sensor mounting boss. In either case, if
the fuel temperature sensor is not used, the boss
should not be drilled and tapped.
15
Figure 16 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Engine with

Left-Side Mounted EECU)
1. Fuel Temperature Sensor
Figure 15 Fuel Temperature Sensor (Engine with

Right-Side Mounted EECU)
Page 22
2. EUP Heat Shield

Engine Speed Sensor
18
This sensor is located at the left side of the

engine flywheel housing (Figure 17). It is flangemounted and held in place by a retaining screw.
The engine speed sensor is the same part
number as the engine position sensor,
located on the engine front cover.
17
Figure 18 Engine Position Sensor
Boost Temperature Sensor and Boost

Pressure Diagnostic Ports
Figure 17 Engine Speed Sensor
The E-Tech flywheel has 117 teeth (one less

tooth than the E7 engine flywheel) and has two
adjacent teeth with part of their width (1/4 inch)
machined off. These two teeth on the E-Tech
flywheel allow the sensor to determine top dead
center (TDC) of cylinder Nos. 1 and 6, whereas
sensing notches are used on the front face of the
E7 flywheel. Because of this feature, ring gear-toflywheel indexing must be maintained.
A V-MAC III boost temperature sensor is located

on the top of the rear inlet manifold (Figure 19).
There is no boost pressure sensor because, as
with all V-MAC systems, V-MAC III uses ECU
programming for transient smoke control.
There are two boost pressure gauge ports just
forward of the boost temperature sensor. The
forward port is used for the dash boost pressure
gauge when chassis is so equipped. The port
adjacent to the boost temperature sensor can be
used to install a boost pressure gauge for
diagnostic purposes if the need arises.
19
Engine Position Sensor

The engine position sensor is located on the
engine front cover (Figure 18) and is retained in
the same manner as the engine speed sensor.
This sensor is designed to monitor the passage of
holes which are in the front face of the camshaft
timing gear. This sensor performs a function
similar to the TEM sensor in the Bosch Injection
Pump RE30 governor on the E7 engine.
Figure 19 Boost Temperature Sensor and Boost

Pressure Gauge Ports
Page 23

Belt Drive System
J-Tech Engine Brake
The belt drive system uses a single 10-rib poly-v

belt to drive the alternator, water pump, and fan
drive (Figure 20). A separate single-v belt,
running off the water pump pulley, drives the
refrigerant compressor. The service life of the
poly-v belt is considerably improved over other
systems and allows the use of higher horsepower
cooling fans.
The J-Tech engine brake is a vehicle-slowing

device that allows the engine to act as an air
compressor, producing retarding horsepower that
helps slow the vehicle. The braking action is
accomplished through hydraulics using a masterslave piston arrangement similar to a hydraulic
jack. When the engine brake is operated, a single
exhaust valve opens near top dead center of the
compression stroke, releasing high-pressure air
out the exhaust. Opening one exhaust valve,
instead of two, significantly reduces load to the
engine brake and the valve train without
adversely affecting braking power. Releasing
compressed air to the exhaust prevents the
return of energy to the engine piston on the
expansion stroke. The result is a net power loss
from the engine, or retarding horsepower, used to
slow the vehicle.
Both manually tensioned and automatically

tensioned systems are used. Whether an engine
has the manually tensioned or automatically
tensioned system depends on the specific engine
configuration and application.
20
With the J-Tech engine brake unit, the master

piston of a given cylinder activates the slave
piston of that same cylinder, providing optimum
timing of the compression release. The E-Tech
engine uses the same engine brake unit on the
front and rear cylinder head.
Figure 20 Belt Drive

1. Air Conditioner
Compressor
2. Water Pump
Page 24
3. Alternator
4. Poly-V Belt
5. Tensioning Device

ENGINE BRAKE FEATURES
Refer to Figure 22.
21
Unique exhaust rocker arm adjusting screws

and nuts (Figure 21).
There are major valve train changes relative to

engine brake implementation on the E-Tech
engine. The most evident changes include:
r
A significantly larger brake unit with a

different appearance and operating concept
than the E7.
Standard E-Tech valve yokes are used at

all positions. The special Jacobs exhaust
yokes on the E7 engine are not used. Note
that the E-Tech engine uses a different
valve yoke from the E7 engine. The E7 and
E-Tech yokes are not interchangeable.
A hollow yoke adjusting screw with a floating

pin in the screw is used in the exhaust
yokes. The screw opens only the exhaust
valve directly beneath it when the
J-Tech engine brake is activated.
Figure 21 Rocker Arm Adjusting Screws and Nuts

22
Figure 22 J-Tech Brake Valve Yoke Hollow Adjusting Screw Arrangement
Page 25

ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
Refer to Figure 23.
The J-Tech brake functions in the following
manner:
r
Under powered operation, a large lash in the

valve train skips the 0.100-inch brake
bump on the camshaft.
During engine brake operation, the solenoid

valve is energized, allowing engine oil to fill
the J-Tech brake housing oil passages.
Oil overcomes the control valve spring and

drives the control valve up in its bore. Oil
passes through the ball check inside the
control valve and exits through the port in
the side, filling the master/slave piston
circuit.
Oil pressure causes the master piston and

rocker arm to move down, removing the
large lash from the cam side of the valve
train. The result is a corresponding lash
increase on the exhaust valve side.
The brake bump on the exhaust cam forces

the master piston upward and directs highpressure oil to the slave piston. The check
valve in the control valve prevents highpressure oil from escaping.
High-pressure oil causes the slave piston to

move down, opening the outboard exhaust
valve via a valve-actuating pin which passes
through the center of the yoke adjusting
screw. Activation occurs near top dead
center and releases compressed air into the
exhaust manifold.
At stroke bottom, the slave piston separates

from the reset valve, allowing oil to flow into
the accumulator. This action reduces
pressure in the high-pressure circuit,
permitting the slave piston to retract and the
exhaust valve to close in preparation for
normal exhaust cycle. Oil in the accumulator
ensures the hydraulic circuit is fully charged
for the next cycle.
Page 26
To help prevent breaking or dislodging of the

control valve snap ring, the J-Tech control
valve components have been redesigned to
incorporate a new-style collar (which replaces the
old-style valve stop spacer) and outer spring and
a retaining washer. With this change, the part
number of the engine brake housing assembly
was changed from 757GB58B to 757GB58C
(beginning with housing assembly Serial No.
D69006001), and was phased into E-Tech
engine production June 30, 1999 (beginning with
engine serial number 9M4395).
23
Figure 23 J-Tech Brake

Camshaft
Valve Train
The large diameter of the camshaft (Figure 24)

provides the strength necessary for actuating the
unit pumps. In addition to the inlet and exhaust
valve lobes, lobes have been added to drive the
unit pumps. The camshaft also has more
aggressive intake and exhaust cam profiles for
improved fuel economy and emissions. A bump
in the exhaust cam profile provides timing for
engine brake operation.
The valve train accommodates the aggressive

cam profiles. Roller lifters and roller followers or
tappets (Figure 25) are used to actuate the
valves and unit pumps, respectively. The roller
lifters handle aggressive cam profiles better and
have increased load-carrying capability.
25
The camshaft has induction-hardened journals

and lobes. This process produces a pronounced
heat discoloration mark approximately 3/8-inch
wide, around the front and rear faces of each
journal and lobe.
As an additional aid in reducing cam bushing
temperature, a groove has been added to the No.
4 journal of current-production camshafts. This
groove was not included on early-production
units. Adding the groove to the camshaft journal
has not resulted in a change to the camshaft part
number.
Figure 25 Roller Lifters
24
VALVES
The stem tip of the valve has grooves to identify
the valve as intake or exhaust. The exhaust seat
face is 30 degrees, whereas the inlet valve seat is
20 degrees.
Figure 24 Camshaft
Page 27

VALVE SEALS
YOKES
The engines are produced with a valve stem seal

that features a multi-lip upper section, combined
with a second lip to significantly reduce
crankcase blow-by. This seal can easily be
identified by the steel retainer band around the
top of the seal lip.
Pin-Type Yokes
To improve seal-to-guide retention, the guides

have three sharp ridges machined into the upper
outside diameter surface. Refer to Figure 26.
Both the new configuration and the previous

configuration valve yokes are being used in
current E-Tech engine production, but the
yokes will not be intermixed on the same engine.
26
During February of 1999, the welded wear padstyle yoke was supplemented in production with a
headed pin (button) type yoke. The material of
the pin-type yoke remains ductile iron.
27
Figure 26 Valve Seal

Figure 27 Current Valve Yokes
VALVE SPRINGS, ROTATORS AND

PUSH RODS
E-Tech valve springs and rotators have heavier
spring tension (pressure) than the E7 to
accommodate the more aggressive cam profiles.
Push rod design also incorporates a larger
diameter to handle the increased loads.
Page 28
For service purposes, it is acceptable to intermix

the different configuration yokes on the same
engine.

On E-Tech and E7 engines, the valve yokes
are very similar. However, it extremely critical that
the correct valve yokes are used with the correct
engine. The previous configuration yokes were
identified with the letter M or E cast into the top
of the yoke next to the slipper pad wear area. The
letter M signifies the valve yoke is used in E7
engines, and the letter E signifies that the yoke
is used in E-Tech engines. On the new buttonhead style valve yoke, however, the letters M
and E have been eliminated. Additionally, the
yokes no longer have part numbers stamped on
them. Installation of the correct new button-head
style valve yokes on the correct engine is still
critical. Therefore, a means of positively
differentiating between E-Tech and E7 is
provided in the following information and
illustrations.
29
The most positive means of identification are by

looking at the nose of the valve yoke. The
E-Tech yoke has the nose end of the slipper
pad area ground flat as shown in Figure 28.
Figure 29 Valve Yoke Side View
28
The yokes used on the E-Tech engine have a

deeper engagement at yoke screw end than E7
because of the longer valve (Figure 30). E7 and
E-Tech yokes are very similar in appearance,
but should not be interchanged.
30
Figure 28 E-Tech, E6, E7 and E9 Valve Yokes (Top

View)
A second method of identifying the button-head

yoke is to look at the side view. On the yoke used
for the E-Tech engine, the top surface of the
adjusting screw end is on the same plane as the
bottom surface of the button-head. On the E6,
E7 and E9 valve yokes, the top surface of the
adjusting screw area is 0.145 inch below the
bottom surface of the button-head. Refer to
Figure 29 for an illustration of these differences.
Figure 30 Valve Yokes

1. E-Tech
2. E7
Page 29

31
Do not interchange yokes. If an E-Tech yoke is

used on an earlier E7 engine, the valve keepers
will become dislodged and cause a dropped
valve. This will cause severe engine damage. If
the E7 yoke is used on an exhaust location of a
J-Tech brake-equipped E-Tech engine, the
yoke will disengage from the valve stem tip during
engine brake operation. See Figure 31.
Figure 31 Yoke/Valve Combinations

1. Correct E7 Yoke/Valve Combination
2. Correct E-Tech Yoke/Valve Combination
3. E7 Yoke with E-Tech Valve
Page 30
4. E-Tech Yoke with E7 Valve

Note: Arrows identify problem areas.

Pinless Valve Yokes Inlet Valve Locations
Beginning on March 2, 2000 (engine serial
No. 0D0120), pinless valve yokes were
implemented into production on all E-Tech
engines. The pinless yokes are used for the inlet
valve only. This change also affects the cylinder
heads which no longer have yoke guide pins at
the inlet valve locations.
The pinless yoke is self-leveling in operation and
does not have a yoke leveling adjustment screw.
Inlet valve lash adjustments are performed in the
normal manner with the rocker arm adjusting
screw. For the exhaust valves, it is still necessary

to adjust the valve yoke first, then the rocker arm
lash.
The bottom of the valve yoke that bridges the two
inlet valves has a round hole and an elongated
hole that fit over the valve stems. The nose of the
yoke with the elongated hole has two notches in
the casting. When installing the pinless yokes, it
is important that the end of the yoke with the two
notches faces away from the valve rocker shaft. If
the yoke is installed incorrectly, the yoke will
contact the rocker arm.
32
Figure 32 Proper Assembly of the Pinless Valve Yoke
Page 31

ROCKER ARMS
Low-Pressure Fuel System
Early-production E-Tech used the older-style

E7 rocker arms. Effective second quarter 1997, a
newly designed rocker arm (Figure 33) on which
the slipper-end wear surface is a hardened,
headed pin pressed into the rocker arm, was
introduced and is currently used.
The flow of fuel through the low-pressure side of

the fuel system is essentially the same as that in
the E7 engine for current-production engines with
the left-side mounted EECU. However, on earlyproduction engines with the right-side mounted
EECU, a cooling plate was added to the circuit
(Figure 34).
33
Fuel flows from the fuel tank to the primary filter,

the EECU cooling plate (if equipped), the supply
pump, the secondary filter and the unit pumps.
Unused fuel is collected in the fuel return gallery
in the cylinder block and returned to the fuel tank
by a fuel return line.
To decrease restriction in the low-pressure fuel
system, hoses and fittings with larger inside
diameters are used for all suction lines in the
E-Tech system.
To meet unit pump demands, the supply pump
provides a 100 gph fuel flow at 70 psi pressure.
This high level of flow and pressure is needed to
cool the unit pumps and EECU, and keep the fuel
supply gallery filled. A check valve fitting, located
on the fuel return gallery outlet on the cylinder
block right side, maintains fuel gallery pressure
and prevents the system from bleeding down
when the engine is not operating.
Figure 33 New-Style Rocker Arm
ROCKER ARM/SHAFT ASSEMBLY

Improved features of the E-Tech rocker arm/
shaft assemblies include:
r
No coil springs between rocker arms
C-clips used to retain rocker arms
Longer shaft lengths
Cup plugs in shaft ends
Improved centering of rocker arm slipper

feet over yoke pads
Page 32
On current-production engines, a new fuel gallery

pressure regulating valve with a 70 psi spring
setting is used to reduce fuel gallery pressure and
fuel dilution.
The gear-type supply pump is located on the rear
side of the right-front flange of the cylinder block.
It is driven by the engine camshaft gear. A hand
primer pump is mounted on the supply pump.

34
Figure 34 Low-Pressure Fuel System
Page 33

Fuel Filtration System
To build up the extremely high pressures required
for improved combustion, unit pumps must have
an unrestricted supply of clean fuel. The
E-Tech filtration system, which utilizes a
primary and secondary filter element, was
designed to provide optimum balance between
filtration efficiency (micron size) and filter change
interval (restriction).
The main design features of the E-Tech
filtration system include:
r
Fine micron media
Large diameter seal surface on both filters,

as well as different primary and secondary
thread sizes (to avoid mix-up with E7 filters)
Unique identification system (a red primary

filter and green secondary filter with black
logo and lettering, and two 1/4-inch black
bands, four inches from top of filter). Refer to
Figure 35.
The fuel filter mounting adapter is made from a

casting, on which the primary and secondary
mounting flanges are the same large size
(Figure 36). The adapter has metric thread spuds
for mounting the fuel filters. As has always been
the practice, primary and secondary spuds are
different sizes, so only the correct filter can be
installed at the proper location.
The correct fuel filter mounting adapter must be

used on the proper engine (E-Tech or E7) to
ensure the correct filters are used.
36
It is mandatory to use these improved fuel filters

on E-Tech engines to protect the unit pumps
from contaminant damage to the very closetoleranced internal components.
Figure 36 Fuel Filter Mounting Adapter (with
Right-Side Mounted EECU)
35
V-MAC III monitors fuel temperature at the

secondary fuel filter outlet which supplies fuel to
the gallery feeding the unit pumps (early
production), or at the cylinder block fuel gallery
inlet (current production). This fuel temperature
data is used by the system to adjust fuel delivery
for optimized power and to provide accurate mpg
fuel consumption information shown on the
Co-Pilot display.
Figure 35 Fuel Filters
Page 34

High-Pressure Fuel System
The high-pressure fuel system (Figure 37) is
designed to provide fuel to the combustion
chamber under high pressure. In this system, unit
pumps (one per cylinder) replace the previously
used fuel injection pump. The unit pump
operating pressures are 26,000 psi, more than
50 percent greater than the peak injection
pressures of the E7 engine. These higher
pressures, along with an extended timing range
and optimized timing control, provide
performance improvements.
Fuel is supplied to each of the unit pumps by the

fuel supply gallery in the cylinder block. The high
pressure required for fuel injection is generated
by a pump plunger (10 mm diameter, 18 mm
stroke), which is actuated by a roller cam follower
(tappet) driven by the engine camshaft. The
volume of fuel delivered to each cylinder is
precisely metered by a solenoid mounted on
each of the unit pumps, which responds to
signals from the V-MAC III EECU. The
pressurized fuel is delivered to the injector
nozzles by individual fuel injector lines, which are
the same for all cylinders and all E-Tech engine
models.
37
Figure 37 High-Pressure Fuel System
Page 35

High-Pressure Fuel Injection Lines
High-pressure fuel lines for each cylinder
(Figure 38) are short (17 inches) and have the
same bends and the strength to withstand the
high fuel pressure generated by electronic unit
pumps. The same part number is used for all
cylinders and all engine models. Also, there are
no clamps used on these lines.
A check valve is incorporated in the nozzle

holders on current-production engines.
39
38
Figure 38 Fuel Injection Lines
Fuel Injector Assemblies

Injector nozzles in the E-Tech differ from those
used in the E7 in that they have increased
material strength, a larger 22-mm diameter and a
higher pressure capability. These features are
essentially due to the higher operating pressures
generated by the unit pumps.
In the E-Tech engine, a pin on the nozzle
holder locates the nozzle in the cylinder head.
The locating pin is on the same side as the nozzle
holder fuel inlet port. Refer to Figure 39.
Figure 39 Fuel Injector Nozzle Holder
Page 36

Cylinder Block
The cylinder block is a single-piece design made
of high-strength alloyed gray cast iron. The deep
skirt extends well below the crankshaft center line
and incorporates seven main bearings. The
bearing caps are made of ductile iron and use
buttress screws at the intermediate locations.
Replaceable wet-dry sleeves line the cylinder
bore.
Due to the large camshaft diameter, the cam bore

position is shifted up and outboard to operate the
unit pumps and provide cam-to-crank clearance
(Figure 40). To accommodate this change in cam
position, the push rod holes are angled four
degrees and the air compressor angled outboard.
The crank and cam timing gears do not mesh
directly, but power transmission occurs through
an idler gear mounted in an idler gear bore in the
front face of the cylinder block. The right-front
flange on the cylinder block provides a mounting
surface for the fuel supply pump.
40
Figure 40 Cylinder Block
Page 37

The main oil gallery runs along the left side of the
block. A second oil gallery the valve lifter/EUP
oil supply gallery runs along the right side of
the block. The valve lifter bores directly intersect
this right-side gallery, while oil is supplied to the
EUP by six passages drilled from the blocks right
side, through the EUP bore and into the adjacent
valve lifter bore. The six holes along the blocks
right side are closed off with pipe plugs.
Both the left- and right-side oil galleries are drilled
from the front and the rear, but do not meet at the
center. Oil is supplied to the valve lifter/EUP oil
gallery through drilled passages from the No. 2
and No. 5 cam bushings. An annulus in No. 2 and
No. 5 main bearing bores, as well as the groove
in the upper bearing inserts, ensures a high
volume of oil to the lifter/EUP gallery.
Internal fuel supply and return galleries for the
unit pumps are gun-drilled axially, the full length
of the blocks right side just below the unit pump
mounting flange surface.
Page 38
Current-production cylinder blocks were changed

to accommodate a redesigned oil cooler/filter
mounting arrangement. Early-production engines
used an externally drained Centri-Max filter.
This arrangement has been replaced by the
internally drained Centri-Max PLUS filter on
current-production engines. The major change to
the cylinder block is in the four-bolt oil filter
pedestal mounting pad located at the center lefthand side of the block. With the elimination of the
externally drained Centri-Max filter, two internal
drain holes are now cast into this mounting pad.
These drain holes allow the Centri-Max PLUS
drain oil to pass directly into the crankcase. The
two 3/4-inch as-cast holes are visible inside the
crankcase on either side of the No. 4 main
bearing bulkhead, between Nos. 3 and 4 piston
cooling nozzles. The external oil drain port in the
cylinder block used for the externally drained
Centri-Max filter is covered with a block-off
plate.

41
Figure 41 Oil Filter Pedestal Mounting Pad and External Oil Drain Block-Off Plate
1. Oil Passage Oil Pump-to-Oil Cooler and Filters
2. Internal Drain Holes
3. External Oil Drain Block-Off Plate
The new internally drained Centri-Max PLUS

filter requires the two internal drain cavities in the
cylinder block. The same cylinder blocks,
however, are used to service engines having
either the externally drained Centri-Max, or the
internally drained Centri-Max PLUS filter
assemblies. When a block is used for an engine
equipped with the externally drained Centri-Max
filter, the oil drain cavities are not functional.
Page 39

Crankshaft
The crankshaft is fully counterbalanced and has
induction hardened journals. There are seven
main bearings with thrust washers located at the
center main bearing (position No. 4) to absorb
fore and aft end thrust. Crankshaft extension at
the forward end carries the main drive gear,
vibration damper and accessory drive pulleys.
The main drive gear has a shrink fit and the
vibration damper hub has a press fit. The main
drive gear is keyed to the crankshaft for proper
assembly and engine timing. The flywheel is
mounted to a flange at the rear of the crankshaft.
Two seals, one at the front and one at the rear,
prevent engine lubricating oil from leaking around
the ends of the crankshaft.
Bearing caps are furnished with the crankcase
and support the crankshaft in true alignment.
Webs integral to the crankcase provide the upper
half of the main bearing supports. Removable
caps provide the lower support and are held in
position with capscrews. The bearing caps are
not interchangeable and each has a number
stamped on it which signifies its correct location
and alignment in the crankcase. The caps are
numbered 1 through 7, with the No. 1 main
bearing cap at the front of the engine. The
bearing inserts are precision-designed, and are
positioned between the crankshaft and
crankcase, and between the crankshaft and the
bearing caps. Thrust flanges to support the thrust
washers are located at the center main bearing
(No. 4).
Page 40
Block Heater for Front (Water

Pump) Location
The engine accepts a straight element unit in the
rear location. Front installations require a curvedelement heater (Figure 42). This curved element
is located inside the lower part of the water pump
housing, which has been revised to
accommodate it. With factory installations, CH/CL
models use the rear location, while RD, MR and
other Macungie-built models use the front
location.
42
Figure 42 Straight and Curved Block Heaters

Cylinder Head
The cast iron cylinder head (Figure 43) is
constructed using a special iron alloy. The head
contains cored inlet, exhaust and coolant
passages, drilled oil passages, replaceable inlet
and exhaust guides and seats, various drilled
passages and tapped holes. Each cylinder head
covers three cylinders and has two inlet and two
exhaust valves per cylinder. Circular grooves

correspond with the fire ring bead on the cylinder
sleeves. This design sets the fire ring over the
liner. With the cylinder head installed and the
bolts tightened to specification, the liner coining
bead extrudes the fire ring into the cylinder head
groove, providing a positive combustion pressure
seal.
43
Figure 43 E-Tech Cylinder Head
Page 41

Some characteristics of the E-Tech cylinder
head are not visually evident, but are still
significant (Figure 44). They include the following
listed items:
r
Push rod holes are angled at four degrees

due to outboard location of camshaft.
Large nozzle sleeve diameter to

accommodate 22-mm nozzle holder
assembly.
Water-jacket casting designed to improve

coolant flow.
Lower exhaust stud holes intersect with

push rod holes; upper exhaust holes may
intersect as well. This requires that all
exhaust studs be sealed at installation to
prevent oil weepage.
E-Tech and E7 cylinder heads cannot be

interchanged because of the differences in the
machining.
44
Figure 44 Cylinder Head and Cover
Page 42

Cylinder Head Gasket
E7 and E-Tech engines use the same fire ring,
but a different cylinder head gasket. The gaskets
are identical except for obvious differences at the
right-side push rod cutout areas. The right-side
edge of the E7 gasket is straight, except for
protrusions at the four right-side head bolt holes.
The E-Tech gasket has these protruded areas
as well, but also has six larger protrusions at the
push rod hole cutouts (Figure 45). Care must be
exercised to use the proper gasket only on the
engine for which it is designed.
45
Figure 45 E-Tech Head Gasket
Page 43

Gear Train
The gear train of the E-Tech engine (Figure 46)
is designed to accommodate the large diameter
camshaft and the addition of electronic unit
pumps. The major changes include all new gears,
an added idler gear, and camshaft and auxiliary
gears that rotate in opposite directions than the
E7. In addition, the power steering pump and air
compressor rotate in opposite directions and the
oil pump drive gear helix has been reversed to
maintain pumping direction.
The larger camshaft on the E-Tech had to be

relocated upward and outward from the original
E7 location in order for the engine camshaft to
drive the unit pumps. This placed the camshaft
further away from the crankshaft and, as a result,
larger timing gears are required. An idler gear is
used between the crank and cam gears. This
keeps the gear sizes from becoming too large
and keeps the engine timing gear flange and
timing gear cover from requiring enlargement.
46
Figure 46 E-Tech Gear Train

1. Fuel Pump Gear
2. Camshaft Gear
3. Idler Gear
Page 44
4. Crankshaft Gear
5. Auxiliary Shaft Gear

Power Steering Pump
There are 45 gear teeth on the crankshaft gear,
90 teeth on the camshaft gear and 48 on the idler
gear. Because the idler gear has 3 more teeth
than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks
(Figure 47) align only once every 16 revolutions
of the crankshaft. This is called a hunting tooth
system.
47
E7 and E-Tech engines have the capability of

driving a power steering pump from either the
front or rear of the auxiliary shaft. Naturally, the
direction of rotation of a front power steering
pump is opposite that of a rear power steering
pump. For example, the E-Tech auxiliary shaft
has a direction of rotation opposite that of the E7,
while an E7 front-mounted, power steering pump
has the same direction of rotation as an E-Tech
rear-mounted, power steering pump.
Always refer to part number specification

information when installing a power steering
pump to ensure that the correct part with the
correct direction of rotation is being used.
Installing a power steering pump with the wrong
direction of rotation will result in pump failure and
inoperative power steering.
Vibration Damper Hub

Figure 47 Timing Marks
Because of the addition of an idler gear, the

E-Tech engine camshaft rotates in the opposite
direction of the camshaft in the E7 engine. The
additional gearing also changes rotation direction
for the air compressor and the power steering
pump. However, the oil pump drive gear helix has
been changed to keep the same oil pump
direction of rotation.
Because the E-Tech engine timing gears are

wider than those used in the E7, the E-Tech
vibration damper hub is 3/8 inch shorter than the
E7 hub (Figure 48). The hubs look the same, but
are different lengths. Always make sure the
correct vibration damper is used for the correct
engine model.
48
Air Compressor
E7 and E-Tech air compressors have the same
internal components, as the air compressor
functions equally well with either direction of
rotation. There are, however, some external
differences between the engines and air
compressors, which prevent the compressors
from being interchangeable between the two
engines.
The E-Tech air compressor benefits from the
22% faster auxiliary shaft speed with quicker
pump-up times, faster air-system recovery and
less operating time under load.
Figure 48 Vibration Damper Hub

1. E-Tech Hub
2. E7 Hub
Page 45

Front Cover
50
Refer to Figure 49.

The front cover has been designed with a boss
for the automatic belt tensioner, room for the idler
gear, a mounting for the crankcase breather, and
a boss for the engine position sensor.
49
Figure 49 Front Cover
CRANKCASE BREATHER
A noticeable feature of the front cover is the
crankcase ventilation assembly. The E-Tech
engine has a crankcase breather filter assembly
which mounts on the engine front timing gear
cover. This system traps, collects and returns oil
to the engine crankcase that would otherwise be
lost with blow-by gases (Figure 50).
During operation, blow-by gases from the engine
pass upward through the filter element, then
down and out through the center standpipe,
which exits from the canister lower-outboard side.
When blow-by gases pass through the filter
element, oil collects on element surfaces and
then drains back into the crankcase.
Figure 50 Crankcase Breather Operation

(Cast-Aluminum Housing Shown)
Early-production engines are equipped with a

cast-aluminum crankcase breather housing,
whereas, current-production engines are
equipped with a housing made of fiberglassreinforced nylon (Figure 51). The breather
element, housing mounting gasket and O-rings
are NOT interchangeable between the two
housing designs.
The canister lid and element are removable to
allow element cleaning.
Page 46

51
Figure 51 Crankcase Breather (Current Production)

1. Fiberglass-Reinforced Nylon Housing
2. Cover
3. Cover O-Ring
4. Filter Element
5. Assembly Mounting O-Ring/Gasket
Centri-Max Oil Filter Breather Vent
MAIN OIL GALLERY
The oil filter vent line between the cylinder head

cover and the filter mounting adapter on the E7
engine is not used on the E-Tech engine. The
vent line is replaced by a vent-to-atmosphere
fitting on the filter mounting adapter.
The main oil gallery on the E-Tech is the same

as the E7 oil gallery with these exceptions:
On early-production engines, a special crossdrilled plug was used at the front to facilitate oil
flow to the idler gear bore and No. 1 main bearing
bore. This special plug was factory-installed in
the cylinder blocks and should not be removed.
For current production, the block is machined to
accept a 3/4-inch cup plug in place of the special
cross-drilled plug (Figure 52).
Lubrication System
There are several changes to the lubrication
system of the E-Tech engine, as compared to
the E7. The major changes are:
r
A second oil gallery along the engine right

side that provides oil to the valve roller
followers and EUPs
An oil pump that has a drive gear helix

opposite that of the E7
52
Since its introduction, the E-Tech engine has

evolved with changes to the oil cooler and oil filter
mounting arrangement. These changes are also
described in this section.
Figure 52 Cross-Drilled Plug
1. Main Oil Gallery
2. Cup Plug, 3/4-Inch
Page 47

VALVE LIFTER/EUP OIL GALLERY
OIL PASSAGES
Refer to Figure 53.
The passage from the main oil gallery to the

No. 1 main bearing bore intersects the idler
gear hub bore to provide lubrication to the
idler gear bushing.
There are two oil annulus passages in the

No. 2 and No. 5 main bearing bores. These
passages, together with the groove in the
upper bearing inserts, ensure a high volume
of oil to the right-side oil gallery.
Valve lifter (roller follower) bores intersect

the right-side oil gallery.
Passages drilled through each EUP bore

and into the adjacent valve lifter bore
provide oil feed to each EUP.
A second oil gallery, located above the camshaft,

supplies oil to the valve lifter bores and EUP
bores. Oil is fed to this gallery by drilled passages
from the No. 2 and No. 5 cam bores which also
feed oil to the cylinder head rocker arm shaft and
engine brake assemblies. The No. 2 and No. 5
main bearing bores are grooved to satisfy the
additional oil flow required by this second oil
gallery. The tappet guide pins in the EUP bores
are factory-installed in all cylinder blocks and
should not be removed.
53
Figure 53 Sectioned View, Front of E-Tech Engine Block
Page 48

OIL PUMP
Due to the addition of an idler gear, the auxiliary
shaft on the E-Tech engine turns the opposite
direction of the E7 auxiliary shaft. In order for the
E-Tech oil pump to turn the same direction as
the E7 pump, the gear set helixes are different.
On the E-Tech, driving thrust load of the shaft
pumping gears is toward the pump housing and
not toward the pump cover, as with the E7
engine. Refer to Figure 54.
An improper drive gear on the oil pump will

prevent oil pump installation, assuming a
correct gear is on the auxiliary shaft.
If an oil pump and an auxiliary shaft

assembly were replaced, two improper
gears could be installed, and engine failure
would result.
In replacing any of these critical parts,

always refer to part number information in
the MACK Parts System to ensure the
correct component is being used.
The E-Tech auxiliary shaft speed or rpm is 22%

faster than that of the E7. As a result, the
E-Tech oil pump (which has slower ratio oil
pump gears) turns 6% faster than the E7. This
provides increased lubricating capacity. Also, the
auxiliary shaft used on the E-Tech engine
(Figure 55) is through-drilled to carry oil to the
rear auxiliary shaft bushing. This is different from
the E7 engine, which provides oil to the rear
bushing through a cylinder block oil passage.
The E-Tech auxiliary shaft is identified by three

painted stripes (early production) or three
machined circumferential cuts (later production)
in front of the stamped part number.
55
54
Figure 55 Auxiliary Shaft
Figure 54 Oil Pump Drive Gears

1. E7 Oil Pump Gear
(12 Teeth)
2. E7 Aux. Pump Gear
(18 Teeth)
3. E-Tech Oil Pump Gear

(13 Teeth)
4. E-Tech Aux. Shaft
Gear (17 Teeth)
Page 49

OIL COOLER AND FILTER MOUNTING
BRACKET
56
Early-production E-Tech engines retained the

same removable bundle-type oil cooler and filter
arrangement as the E7. Current-production
engines, however, have a plate-type oil cooler
and a redesigned oil filter mounting arrangement.
The arrangement includes a new centrifugal oil
filter assembly, called Centri-Max PLUS, that is
inverted and mounted on top of the bracket. Also,
with this arrangement, the external oil drain is
eliminated.
On current-production engines, the main member
to which the oil cooler and oil filters are mounted
is a new one-piece aluminum casting which bolts
to the four-bolt pad on the cylinder block. An oil
drain passage within the casting allows the oil
from the Centri-Max PLUS filter to drain back to
the crankcase.
Figure 56 Oil Cooler/Filter Mounting Bracket

1. Oil Cooler
2. Centri-Max PLUS Oil
Filter
Page 50
3. Oil Filter Mounting

Bracket
4. Spin-On, Full-Flow Oil
Filters

Ports for the V-MAC III oil pressure and oil
temperature sensors are located on this mounting
assembly. Remote oil supply ports are provided
for the turbocharger, and also to supply oil
pressure for other items such as a turbounloader, REPTO, a mechanical oil pressure
gauge or a remote-mounted centrifugal oil filter.
57
Figure 57 Oil Supply Ports

1. Turbocharger Oil Supply Port
2. Oil Temperature Sensor Harness Connectors
3. Oil Supply Port for REPTO, Turbo Unloader, RemoteMounted Oil Filter

5. Oil Temperature Sensor Port
6. Oil Supply Port for Mechanical Oil Pressure Dashboard
Gauge
Page 51

OIL FILTERS
CENTRI-MAX PLUS OIL FILTER ASSEMBLY
The oil filters on the E-Tech are the same as

those used on the E7 engine. However, the
Centri-Max vent line is not used on the E-Tech
engine; a breather vent fitting is used in its place.
The Centri-Max PLUS oil filter assembly on

current-production engines is mounted at the top
of the oil filter mounting bracket assembly,
between, and outboard of the two full-flow spinon filters. It is mounted in an inverted position,
opposite the way in which the externally drained
Centri-Max filter is mounted on early-production
engines.
58
Figure 58 Centri-Max PLUS Oil Filter Assembly

1. Cover Bolt
2. Centri-Max PLUS Cover Assembly
OIL COOLER
3. Centri-Max PLUS Rotor (Part No. 236GB245M)

4. O-Ring
59
The removable bundle-type oil cooler used on

early-production engines has been replaced by a
single-piece, plate-type design on currentproduction engines. The plate-type oil cooler has
a stainless steel housing and integral water inlet
and outlet tubes. The cooler bolts directly to the
aluminum oil filter mounting bracket with two bolts
at each one of the oil ports.
Figure 59 Plate-Type Oil Cooler Assembly
Page 52

A 2-1/4-inch diameter steel coolant tube connects
the oil cooler water outlet to the water pump inlet.
The tube connects to the water pump with a
flange, and a gasket is used at the joint between
the water pump and tube flange. On earlier
engines, the coolant tube connects to the oil
cooler water outlet by an O-ring connection. On
later engines, the O-ring connection was replaced

by a hose connection. The most commonly used
tube has two smaller tubes attached to the main
tube (one tube for the thermostat bypass and the
other for the water line to the surge tank). Other
chassis models use variations of this tube
assembly.
60
Figure 60 Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

1. Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Coolant Tube
2. Thermostat Bypass Tube
3. Coolant Line to Surge Tank
4. Oil Cooler
5. Hose Connection
Page 53

OIL COOLER DE-AERATION LINE
To vent air which may otherwise become trapped
in the plate-type oil cooler when filling the cooling
system with coolant, a de-aeration line has been
added. This line is routed from the oil cooler top
left-front corner to the top front of the water
manifold. CH model chassis have an additional
vent line from the top of the water pump to the top
of the thermostat housing. This replaces the steel

line used on CH model chassis with the
removable bundle-type oil cooler. The deaeration line is made from 1/4-inch inside
diameter (1/2-inch outside diameter) silicone
heater hose, and is protected from rubbing and
chafing by length of convoluted tubing.
61
Figure 61 Oil Cooler De-Aeration Line

1. De-Aeration Line
2. Convoluted Tubing
Page 54
3. Oil Cooler

GLOSSARY OF TERMS
Breather Canister
A canister through which blow-by gases are
filtered to remove engine oil for return of oil to the
crankcase. The canister is mounted on the
engine front cover.
Breather Filter
A meshed metal filtration element inside the
breather canister. The element can be removed,
cleaned and reinstalled in the canister.
Electronic Unit Pump (EUP)
An electronically controlled fuel injection pump,
one for each cylinder of an engine. The electronic
unit pumps are actuated by roller followers and
lobes on the engine camshaft.
Idler Tensioner
An automatic belt tensioning device designed to
maintain optimum tension under varying engine
speeds and load. The idler tensioner is optional
on the E-Tech engine.
Poly-V Belt
A multi-ribbed belt design which is incorporated
into a single drive belt and pulley system at the
front of the E-Tech engine.
Pump Line Nozzles (PLN)
A fuel injection system using a single multiplunger fuel injection pump supplying fuel to
individual nozzles at each cylinder. (This system
applies to the E7 engine only and not the
E-Tech.)
Roller Follower
A microprocessor-based controller, sometimes

referred to as a module, mounted on the right or
left side of the E-Tech engine. With the MACK
V-MAC III system, the EECU primarily controls
fuel timing and delivery, fan operation, engine
protection functions and engine brake operation.
A type of lifter with an axle-mounted roller that

rides on (or follows) a camshaft lobe. The rolling
motion of this design provides increased load
capacity with less friction than the flat-faced lifter
design. Roller followers are used to provide the
lifting action for the electronic unit pumps and the
intake and exhaust valves on the E-Tech
engine.
H-Ring
Tappet Guide Pin
A type of guide ring used to prevent axial rotation

of the valve roller follower. On the E-Tech
engine, a ring is press-fit into each valve lifter
bore.
A pin used to prevent axial rotation of an EUP

tappet. The pin is pressed into the cylinder block
EUP tappet bore wall and fits into a slot in the
tappet.
Idler Gear
Vehicle Control Unit (VECU)
A timing gear positioned between the crankshaft

and camshaft gears in the front gear train of the
E-Tech engine.
A microprocessor-based controller, sometimes

referred to as a module, mounted in the cab,
inside the passenger-side dash panel. With the
MACK V-MAC III system, the VECU controls
engine speed, cruise control, accessory relay
controls, idle shutdown, and trip recorder
functions.
Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU)
Page 55
NOTES
Page 56
TROUBLESHOOTING
TROUBLESHOOTING
Page 57
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS
Also, refer to the V-MAC III service manual,

8-211, for applicable blink code information.
V-MAC III Diagnostics
When operating in cold weather, fuel waxing can

cause many of the problems described below.
Also, water in the fuel can damage unit pumps
and nozzles. Be sure to check for water in the fuel
and/or fuel congealing before proceeding to
troubleshoot a problem.
ENGINE WILL NOT CRANK
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Batteries have low output.
1. Check the batteries. Charge or replace as required.
2. Loose or corroded battery or ground

connections.
2. Clean and tighten battery and ground connections.
3. Broken or corroded wires.
3. Check voltage at the following connections:

Switch to starter
Battery to starter
Replace as required.
4. Faulty starter or starter solenoid.
4. Check operation of starter and solenoid. Repair as required.
5. Faulty key switch.
5. Replace key switch.
6. Internal seizure.
6. Bar the engine over one complete revolution. If the engine cannot
be turned, internal damage is indicated. Disassemble engine and
repair as required.
ENGINE CRANKS WILL NOT START

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Slow cranking speed.
1. Check corrections listed in preceding chart, ENGINE WILL NOT

CRANK.
2. Code(s) present.
2. Correct cause of code(s). Refer to ENGINE MISFIRES

CODE(S) PRESENT chart.
3. No fuel to engine.
3. Check for fuel in the fuel tank. Check for plugged fuel tank
connections, restricted or kinked fuel suction lines, fuel transfer
pump failure or clogged fuel filters.
4. Defective fuel transfer pump.
4. Check transfer pump for minimum output pressure. Change fuel

filters if low. Look for air leaks and recheck pressure. If still below
minimum, replace transfer pump.
5. Poor quality fuel, or water in fuel.
5. Drain fuel from tank. Replace fuel filters and fill fuel tank with
MACK-specified diesel fuel.
6. Incorrect engine oil viscosity.
6. Drain oil. Replace oil filters and fill crankcase with recommended
grade oil.
7. Low compression.
7. Check cylinder compression. If low, refer to LOW

COMPRESSION chart.
8. Faulty EUP fuel-return check valve.
8. Check for free poppet movement.
9. Faulty electrical connections.
9. Check electrical connections at ECU, engine position and enginespeed sensor connections.
Page 58
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE MISFIRES CODE(S) PRESENT
Possible Cause
1. Code(s) present.
Correction
1. Correct cause of code(s). Check harness, battery and ground
connections. If code(s) remains, replace ECU. If code is still
present after replacing ECU, reinstall original ECU and refer to
item 7 in ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S)

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Broken or leaking high-pressure fuel lines.
1. Check for fuel leaks. Repair as necessary.
2. Poor quality fuel, or water or dirt in fuel.
2. Drain fuel from tanks. Replace fuel filters and fill tank with MACKspecified diesel fuel.
3. Air in fuel system.
3. Check fuel system for air leaks. Repair as necessary. (Air

generally gets into the fuel system on suction side of the fuel
pump.)
4. Low fuel supply pressure.
4. Check to be sure there is fuel in the fuel tank. Check for sharp
bends or kinks in the fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel
transfer pump. Also, check for clogged suction pipe (in the fuel
tank) or a plugged fuel suction hose. Check for air in the fuel
system, and check the fuel pressure. If the pressure is lower than
specified, replace the fuel filters. Inspect fuel return check valve
for free-moving poppet. If still low, replace the transfer pump.
5. Improper valve lash adjustment.
5. Check adjustment. Correct as necessary.
6. Worn camshaft lobe.
6. With valve lash properly adjusted, check rocker arm movement. If

not within specifications, replace worn parts.
7. Valves not seating properly.
7. Remove heads, recondition valves as required, and reinstall

heads.
8. Defective fuel injection nozzles or unit pump.
8. Note: The following test will register a fault in the ECU which may
be cleared after test is completed.
Make sure all EUP terminal wires are connected and tight. With
the engine operating at low idle (625675 rpm), connect a jumper
wire across the EUP terminals one cylinder at a time. If the
cylinder is firing correctly, the engine sound will change. If a
cylinder does not change the engine sound, that cylinder is not
firing correctly.
If a cylinder is not firing correctly, determine if a fuel pulse is
present in the high-pressure injection line by touching the line
firmly with a screwdriver about one inch from the EUP.
Note: When it is difficult to determine if the problem is the EUP or
the nozzle, first switch the EUP with that of an adjacent cylinder
and recheck for a pulse in both affected cylinders. If the problem
follows with the EUP, then the EUP is at fault. If the problem
remains with the original cylinder, then the nozzle may be at fault.
Compare the pulse felt with the EUP shorted vs. not shorted. If a
normal pulse is detected when the EUP is not shorted, the
problem may be in the injection nozzle or the engine valve
adjustment. First check engine valve adjustment. If OK, repair or
replace the nozzle.
If no pulse is detected, replace the unit pump for that cylinder.
Note: A tachometer that senses injection-line pressure can also
be used to check if pulse is present (use J 39638 Tech Tach or
equivalent). If an engine rpm is recorded on the tachometer, the
problem may be in the injection nozzle or the engine valve
adjustment. If no reading is obtained, replace the unit pump for
that cylinder.
9. Cylinder head gasket leakage.
9. Check for visible signs of leakage, coolant in the oil, or traces of

oil in the coolant. Use a compression tester to check each
cylinder. Replace cylinder head gasket if necessary.
Page 59
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE STALLS AT LOW SPEEDS
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Code(s) present.
1. Correct cause of code(s).
2. Cylinder cutting out.
2. Isolate cylinder and determine cause of cutting out. Refer to item

8 in ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
3. Idle speed set too low.
3. Check idle setting. Adjust as necessary.
4. High parasitic load.
4. Check for excessive loading due to engaged auxiliary

attachments.
5. Fuel tank vent clogged or partially clogged.
5. Check fuel tank vents. Repair as necessary.
6. Low fuel supply.
6. Check for sufficient fuel in the fuel tank. Check fuel filters, replace
if necessary. Check fuel supply lines for restrictions or air in the
system. Check fuel return check valve for free-moving poppet.
Check fuel pressure and repair or replace supply pump as
required.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle.
7. Isolate defective nozzle and replace. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE

MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
8. Defective unit pump.
8. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
ERRATIC ENGINE SPEED

Possible Cause
1. Air leaks in fuel suction line.
Correction
1. Check for air leaks. Repair as necessary.
LOW POWER
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Code(s) present.
2. Intercooler cracked or leaking.
2. Inspect intercooler, pressure-test, and repair or replace as

required.
3. Plugged fuel tank vents.
3. Clean the fuel tank vents.
4. Restrictions in the air intake system such as

clogged air filter(s).
4. Check for restrictions in the air intake system. Check the air
pressure in the air intake manifold. Replace the air filter and make
necessary repairs to the air intake system.
5. Poor quality fuel.
5. Drain fuel tank(s), clean system and replace fuel filters. Fill tank
with MACK-specified diesel fuel. Bleed system.
6. Low fuel pressure.
6. Check for sufficient fuel in the fuel tank. Check fuel filters, replace
if necessary. Check fuel supply lines for restrictions or air in the
system. Check fuel return check valve for free-moving poppet.
Check fuel pressure and repair or replace supply pump as
required.
7. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.
8. Fuel-injection nozzle failure.
8. Repair or replace defective nozzle. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE

MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
9. Turbocharger dirty or malfunctioning.
9. Inspect turbocharger. Clean, repair or replace as required.
10. Exhaust restriction.
10. Check for restrictions in the exhaust system.
11. Low compression.
11. Check items listed under LOW COMPRESSION.
12. Restrictions in intercooler.
12. Perform restriction pressure test. Clean any restrictions.
13. Restrictions in intercooler inlet/outlet tubes.
13. Disconnect tubing and clean restrictions.
Page 60
TROUBLESHOOTING
Low power complaints may result from many

factors other than an engine problem. Be sure to
check the chassis and trailer for dragging brakes
and assess the drivetrain combination for
driveability and application (engine-rated bhp,
transmission and rear-axle ratios, tire sizes, etc.).
ENGINE WILL NOT ACHIEVE NO-LOAD GOVERNED RPM

Possible Cause
1. Code(s) present.
Correction
EXCESSIVE BLACK OR GRAY SMOKE

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Code(s) present.
2. Intercooler core leakage.
2. Pressure-test intercooler. If test results are unsatisfactory,

remove, repair or replace intercooler as needed.
3. Intercooler core fin obstructions.
3. Clean intercooler fins.
4. Insufficient air for combustion.
4. Check air cleaner for restrictions. Check inlet manifold pressure,

and inspect the turbocharger for proper operation. Repair or
replace as required.
5. Excessive exhaust back pressure.
5. Check for faulty exhaust piping or restrictions in the muffler.

Repair or replace as required.
6. Improper grade of fuel.
6. Drain fuel from tank(s). Replace fuel filters and fill tank(s) with
MACK-specified diesel fuel.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle or unit pump.
7. Isolate defective nozzle and replace. Refer to item 8 under

ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S) chart.
8. Improper engine valve adjustment.
8. Reset valve adjustment.
9. Malfunctioning exhaust/intake valve.
9. Repair cylinder head/valve train.
Page 61
TROUBLESHOOTING
EXCESSIVE BLUE OR WHITE SMOKE
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Code(s) present.
2. No code(s) present, faulty cylinder.
2. Isolate faulty cylinder and repair as required.
3. Low fuel pressure.
3. Check fuel lines and filters for blockage.
4. Engine lubricating oil level too high.
4. Drain excess lubricating oil. If the oil is contaminated with either

fuel or coolant, completely drain the oil pan. Change the oil filters.
Locate the source of the leak and correct. Fill with MACKspecified engine oil. Check the oil level with the dipstick. DO NOT
overfill.
5. Turbocharger passing oil.
5. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Check for air inlet restriction
(clogged air filter). Repair or replace turbocharger as required.
6. Worn piston rings.
6. Determine and correct the root cause, and repair engine as

required.
7. Engine misfiring or running rough.
7. Check items as outlined in ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S)

chart.
EXCESSIVE FUEL CONSUMPTION

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Code(s) present.
2. Restrictions in the air induction system.
2. Inspect system. Remove restrictions and replace defective parts

as required.
3. External fuel system leakage.
3. Check external piping on fuel system for signs of fuel leakage.

Repair as required.
4. Defective injection nozzle assembly.
4. Isolate defective nozzle assembly. Repair and replace as

required. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES NO CODE(S)
chart.
5. Internal engine wear.

required.
EXCESSIVE OIL CONSUMPTION

Possible Cause
Correction
1. External oil leaks.
1. Check engine for visible signs of oil leakage. Look for loose or
stripped oil drain plugs, broken gaskets (cylinder head cover,
etc.), and front and rear oil seal leakage.
2. Turbocharger passing oil.
2. Check for oil in the inlet manifold. Check for excessive inlet
restriction (such as a dirty air filter). Repair/replace air filter or
turbocharger as required.
3. Air compressor passing oil.
3. Repair or replace air compressor.
4. Clogged crankcase breather pipe.
4. Remove obstructions.
5. Excessive exhaust back pressure.
5. Check exhaust pressure. Repair as required.
6. Worn valve stem seals.
6. Replace valve stem seals.
7. Worn valve guides.
7. Check for valve guide wear and replace guides as required.
8. Internal engine wear.

required.
Page 62
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE OVERHEATS
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Coolant level low.
1. Locate cause. Look for leaking gaskets or loose or leaking hoses.

Repair, replace or tighten as required. Replenish coolant.
2. Loose or worn fan belts.
2. Adjust belt tension or replace belts as required.
3. Restricted airflow through radiator.
3. Remove any restrictions from the outer surface of the radiator.
4. Plugged radiator core.
4. Remove, repair or replace radiator as required.
5. Defective radiator pressure cap.
5. Test pressure of the radiator cap. Replace cap if required.
6. Defective coolant thermostat or temperature

gauge.
6. Check opening temperature of thermostat. Check for correct

installation. Check temperature gauge and sending unit. Replace
if defective.
7. Viscous (or ON/OFF) fan drive not operating

properly, or fan improperly positioned.
7. Check fan operation. Repair as required.
8. Combustion gases in coolant.
8. Determine point where gases are entering the cooling system.

Repair or replace parts as required.
9. Defective water pump.
9. Remove, repair and reinstall water pump as required.
10. Plugged oil cooler.
10. Remove oil cooler. Disassemble, remove restrictions/replace

parts as required. Reinstall.
11. Winterfront (if equipped) not opened.
11. Open or remove winterfront at specified ambient temperatures.
12. Shutters not opening properly (for chassis

equipped with shutters).
12. Check shutter operation. Repair as required.
HIGH EXHAUST TEMPERATURE

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Operating chassis in wrong gear ratio for load,

grade and/or altitude.
1. Instruct operator on correct gear selection for load and grade

conditions.
2. Restrictions in the air induction system.
2. Inspect air induction system. Remove restrictions and/or replace

defective parts.
3. Air leaks in the air induction system.
3. Check pressure in the air intake manifold. Look for leaking piping
and/or loose clamps. Make necessary repairs.
4. Leaks in the exhaust system (before the

turbocharger).
4. Check exhaust system for leaks. Make necessary repairs.
5. Restrictions in the exhaust system.
5. Inspect system. Make necessary repairs.
6. Adjust valve lash setting to specified clearance.
7. Defective fuel injection nozzle assembly.
7. Isolate defective nozzle. Refer to item 8 in ENGINE MISFIRES

NO CODE(S) chart.
High Pyrometer Normal Boost

8. Loose ducting.
8. Repair loose connections.
9. Intercooler core fin obstructions.
9. Clean intercooler fins.
High Pyrometer Low Boost

10. Intercooler core leakage.
10. Pressure-test intercooler. Remove, repair or replace intercooler if

test results are unsatisfactory.
11. Dirty turbocharger.
11. Remove turbocharger and clean.
12. Leaks in the pressurized side of the air

induction system.
12. Check for leaks. Repair as required.
13. Blockage in ducting between the air cleaner

and the turbocharger.
13. Check for blockage and repair.
Page 63
TROUBLESHOOTING
LOW ENGINE OIL PRESSURE
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Oil level insufficient. Oil leaking from oil line,

gasket, etc.
1. Check engine oil level. Add oil if necessary. Check for oil leaks.
Repair as required.
2. Incorrect oil viscosity.
2. Drain oil, change oil filters, and fill with the proper grade oil
meeting MACK specifications.
3. Defective oil pressure gauge.
3. Check the operation of the oil pressure gauge. If defective,

replace.
4. Clogged oil filter(s).
4. Replace oil filters. Clean or replace oil cooler. Drain oil and refill
with oil meeting MACK specifications.
5. Engine oil diluted with diesel fuel.
5. Check fuel system for leaks. Make necessary repairs. Drain

diluted oil, change oil filters, and refill with oil meeting MACK
specifications.
6. Defective oil pump.
6. Remove oil pressure relief valve and check condition of seat.

Check that relief valve spring is not sticking, and check for proper
spring tension. Check internal thrust washer. Check cap. Check
assembly parts. Using the incorrect parts will result in incorrect oil
pressure. Make any necessary repairs or install a new relief valve.
7. Oil pump gears not meshing properly.
7. Check mounting arrangement. If the engine has been rebuilt,

check that the gear ratio of the oil pump drive and driven gears
are correct. Incorrect gear combinations will result in immediate
gear failure and possible engine damage.
8. Incorrect oil filter mounting pad gasket.
8. Check for correct oil pad gasket.
9. Excessive clearance between crankshaft and

bearings.
9. Overhaul the engine. Replace any worn/defective parts.
OIL IN THE COOLING SYSTEM

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Defective oil cooler core.
1. Disassemble and repair or replace oil cooler core.
2. Blown head gasket.
2. Replace head gasket.
3. Cylinder head porosity.
3. Replace cylinder head.
COOLANT IN ENGINE OIL

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Defective oil cooler core.
1. Disassemble and repair or replace oil cooler core.
2. Cylinder head pipe plug leaking.
2. Repair leak.
3. Cylinder head gasket failure.
3. Pressure-test cooling system and repair as required.
4. Cylinder sleeve seat leaking.
5. Cracked cylinder head.
Page 64
TROUBLESHOOTING
LOW COMPRESSION
Possible Cause
Correction
1. Adjust valve lash to specified clearance.
2. Blown head gasket.
2. Replace head gasket.
3. Broken or weak valve springs.
3. Check and replace defective parts as required.
4. Valves not seating properly.
4. Remove, recondition and reinstall heads.
5. Piston rings stuck, worn, broken or improperly

seated.
5. Determine and correct root cause and repair engine as required.
6. Camshaft or valve lifters worn.
6. Replace camshaft and/or valve lifters and perform any other

necessary repairs as required.
FUEL IN LUBE OIL

Possible Cause
Correction
1. Excessive idling, especially in cold weather.
1. Minimize idling time and use all recommended cold weather

accessories.
2. Injector nozzle malfunctioning.
2. Remove and pop-test nozzles. Clean or replace nozzles as

required.
3. Unit pump O-ring leaking.
3. Replace O-rings.
Page 65
TROUBLESHOOTING
CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE
LIFT CHECKS
[213 CH]
3. Loosen (back off) the inlet valve rocker

adjusting screw jam nut. Ensure that the
valve yoke is correctly adjusted. Adjust the
inlet valve to zero lash.
Camshaft Timing Check
4. Position a dial indicator (magnetic-base

type) probe on the valve spring retainer.
Preload the indicator to 1/2 indicator plunger
travel.
Correct camshaft timing is essential for proper

engine performance. Incorrect camshaft timing
may be suspected if soon after engine overhaul,
lack of performance, unusual noise or excessive
smoke is reported.
On the E-Tech engine, timing marks are

stamped on the flywheel just as they are on the
E7 engine. The E-Tech engine, however, does
not have a timing pointer since setting injection
pump-to-engine timing is not necessary. The
flywheel timing marks can be used to check the
camshaft-to-crankshaft timing by looking up
through the hole where the timing pointer would
be located and viewing the timing marks. A pencil
point may be inserted through the timing pointer
hole to easily pinpoint the timing marks on the
scale.
5. Bar the engine in the direction of normal

rotation and carefully observe the direction
in which the indicator needle travels. Use the
dial indicator to determine when the inlet
valve is fully open.
6. Stop rotating the engine when travel of the
dial indicator needle stops. If the dial
indicator needle reverses direction, the fullopen position is passed. Repeat the
procedure if this occurs.
7. Remove the timing hole cover from the
flywheel housing so that the flywheel timing
marks can be viewed. Engine timing should
be approximately 26 degrees. A difference
of approximately 10 degrees indicates that
the crankshaft-to-camshaft timing gears may
be mismatched one tooth.
Camshaft Lobe Lift Check

Camshaft timing can be checked using either the
cylinder No. 3 or No. 4 inlet valve. For example
purposes, the No. 3 cylinder will be used in the
steps below.
1. Remove the cylinder head cover over
cylinder No. 3.
2. Locate the inlet valves for No. 3 cylinder (the
sixth valve set from the front of engine). Bar
the engine to position the No. 3 piston at top
dead center (TDC) of the compression
stroke.
Page 66
When diagnosing potential lifter or camshaft

failures, 0.030 inch (0.76 mm) less than the lift of
a new camshaft is considered the minimum
acceptable camshaft lobe lift for used
components. Intake lobe lift differs depending on
the camshaft part number. Camshaft lobe lift is
measured by using a dial indicator at the push
rod with the rocker arm adjusted to zero lash.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE
AIR COOLING TESTS
[233 FA]
General Information
The Chassis-Mounted Charge Air Cooling
(CMCAC) system cools hot turbocharged air
before it enters the engine intake manifold. The
CMCAC system uses ambient air as a cooling
medium by allowing it to pass through a core
equipped with heat-exchanging fins.
Hot turbocharged air, varying in pressure from

0.025 psi (0.0172 kPa), passes through core
tubes where heat is transferred to the ambient air
by heat-exchanging fins.
Front-section core construction consists of a
series of cold bars, cold fins and tube plates.
Side-section core construction consists of a
series of hot bars and hot fins.
Special Tool Required

r
Charge Air Cooler Pressure Fixture J 41473
CMCAC Troubleshooting
Symptom
Probable Cause
Remedy
Normal Boost High Pyrometer
1. Core fin obstructions.
1. Clean core fins.
Low Boost High Pyrometer
1. Restriction in ducting between air

cleaner and turbo.
1. Check for blockage and clean.
2. Dirty turbocharger.
2. Clean turbocharger.
3. Leaks in the pressurized side of the

induction system.
3. Check for and repair leaks.
4. Inlet manifold leak.
4. Check for loose or missing fittings,

plugs, and/or damaged manifoldto-cylinder head gaskets. Replace
missing parts, and repair loose
connections.
5. Open petcock (if equipped).
5. Close petcock.
6. Core leakage.
6. Pressure-test core. Remove, repair

or replace core if test results are
not satisfactory.
1. Restrictions in cooler.
1. Perform restriction pressure test.

Clean out restriction.
2. Restrictions in cooler inlet and

outlet tubes.
2. Disconnect and clean obstructions.
Low Power
Page 67
TROUBLESHOOTING
CMCAC Pressure Test
1. Remove the air ducting from core.
5. When plugs are secured, attach an air line

(fitted to a pressure regulator and gauge) to
the air line adapter in the core outlet
opening.
2. Plug the core inlet opening.
6. Pressurize the system to 30 psi (207 kPa).
3. Insert a plug with an air line adapter in the

core outlet opening.
7. Shut off the air source. Pressure should not

drop more than 5 psi (35 kPa) within
15 seconds. Repair or replace the core if
pressure drop exceeds specification.
Refer to Figure 62.
8. Carefully release pressure from the system.

Charged air cooler pressure fixture J 41473 can
be used on coolers with flange connections.
9. After repairing or replacing the core,

reconnect ducting. Tighten clamp nuts until
clamp spring is fully compressed.
4. Connect a safety chain or cable to both

plugs.
Stand clear of the plug area when system is

pressurized.
When the spring is fully compressed, the torque

applied on the nut is generally between 4055 lb-in
(4.56.2 Nm).
62
Figure 62 CMCAC Pressure Test

1. Core Inlet
2. Core Outlet
3. Plug (Part of J 41473)
Page 68
4. Safety Chain
5. Air Pressure Regulator and Gauge (J 41473)
TROUBLESHOOTING
Restriction Pressure Test
Perform the restriction pressure test at maximum

full-load condition.
If using manometers for this test, the difference

between readings should not exceed 4 in-Hg
(13.5 kPa).
4. Stop the engine.
A restriction in the internal portion of the cooler

may interfere with proper airflow and can result in
excessively high pyrometer readings. To perform
a restriction pressure test, use the following
procedure:
1. Install pressure gauge lines at both the inlet
and outlet tubes of the charge air cooler.
Some units are equipped with connection ports

on the inward sides of the inlet and outlet charge
cooler tubes. If so equipped, the plugs can be
removed from these ports and the gauge lines
connected. If not, adapters with gauge ports must
be installed in the cooler inlet and outlet tubes.
2. Install the appropriate pressure gauge(s) to
the cooler inlet and outlet tubes.
5. If the pressure drop is higher than the

specified amount, remove the cooler from
the vehicle and flush the inside. Follow the
procedure covered under CMCAC
Preventive Maintenance to remove any
deposits that may be present. Reinstall the
cooler and then pressure-test the cooler.
6. If the cooler passes the restriction and
pressure tests, remove the test equipment,
reinstall inlet and outlet tubes, hoses and
clamps. Reinstall the gauge-port plugs on
systems so equipped. Tighten the clamps to
38 lb-in (4.3 Nm).
The clamp springs must always be located on the

underside of the tube to avoid damaging the hood
when closed.
3. Start the engine and while operating it at fullload condition, read the pressure drop
across the cooler.
r
If the pressure drop is higher than 2 psi

(13.79 kPa) at full-load condition, the
cooler has internal restrictions.
If the pressure drop is lower than 2 psi

(13.79 kPa), the cooler is OK and can
remain in service.
Page 69
TROUBLESHOOTING
Core Inspection
GUIDELINES
With the exception of straightening minor bends
in the cold fins, the CMCAC core is not repairable
and should be replaced when more extensive
Damage
Core Failures
damage is encountered. To ensure that the

CMCAC system will function properly after repair
or replacement, a pressure/leak test is
recommended.
Recommended Repair
Procedure
System Check
Repairable
Bent cold fins
Straighten with small

screwdriver or pair of small
needlenose pliers.
Perform pressure/leak test.
Nonrepairable
All header tank-to-core

separations
No repair procedure is
recommended replace
unit.
All header tank cracks
recommended replace
unit.
Internal fins damaged and

separated from tube plate
recommended replace
unit.
Tube blockage
recommended replace
unit.
Tube/plate cracks or welds,

cold bar separations or
openings
recommended replace
unit.
Excessive cold fin damage

(original shape of fins
distorted beyond repair)
recommended replace
unit.
INSPECTION
1. Carefully inspect the entire system to
determine the exact location and extent of
damage.
2. Inspect the cold fins and cold bars that run
horizontally in the cooler.
3. Inspect all brazed or welded joints in the
header tank.
CMCAC Preventive Maintenance

In case of engine and/or turbocharger failure, the
charge air cooler should be flushed to make sure
the cooler is free of debris.
FLUSHING PROCEDURE
1. Remove the chassis-mounted cooler and
flush the inside with a safety solvent to
remove oil and other foreign debris.
2. Shake cooler to remove large pieces.
Page 70
3. Wash with hot, soapy water. Rinse with

clean water and blow dry with compressed
air in the reverse direction of flow.
4. Carefully inspect cooler to ensure
cleanliness.
Do not use caustic cleaners when flushing the

cooler. Be extremely careful when handling the
cooler so as not to damage the core.
TROUBLESHOOTING
CYLINDER HEAD AND
CYLINDER BLOCK LEAK TEST
PROCEDURE
63
Verify suspected leaks in the cylinder heads or

cylinder block by pressure testing before deciding
to replace the cylinder head or block. Do not use
magnaflux inspections alone as replacement
criteria.
Before proceeding with the tests, look for coolant
stains around the 3/4-inch NPT plugs on the tops
of the cylinder heads. Check that the plugs are
torqued to 55 lb-ft (75 Nm).
Figure 63 Cylinder Head Pipe Plugs (3/4-Inch NPT)
Cylinder head pipe plugs used on engines

manufactured April 1, 1999 or later (beginning
with engine serial number series 9F) have
encapsulated epoxy sealant applied to the
threads. These pipe plugs are tightened to
55 lb-ft (75 Nm) at assembly, and the epoxy
locks them in place. These plugs will not turn
when an attempt is made to tighten them. If a
coolant leak at an epoxy-sealed pipe plug is
suspected, the plug may be removed by heating it
to 400F (205C) with a torch. Before reinstalling
the plug, the epoxy sealant must be thoroughly
cleaned from the pipe plug threads, and the
threads in the cylinder head. The plug and the
cylinder head threads must then be cleaned with
Loctite Primer T and resealed with Loctite 277.
Reinstall the plug and torque to 55 lb-ft (75 Nm).
Also, make sure leakage is not caused by the oil
cooler or air compressor. Perform the simpler
checks first to prevent unnecessary engine
disassembly. While performing the following
tests, watch for indications of minor leaks, such
as small bubbles, that can develop into more
severe leaks during engine operation.
Cylinder Head and Head Gasket

Check In Chassis
1. Look for coolant stains around the 3/4-inch
NPT pipe plugs on top of the cylinder heads.
Check plug torque. The plug torque
specification is 55 lb-ft (75 Nm). Refer to
Figure 63.
1. Cylinder Head
2. Pipe Plugs
2. Before removing the thermostat, drain

coolant from the cooling system until the
coolant level is below the thermostat
housing.
3. Remove the thermostat and leave the
thermostat housing open. Install a short
section of hose, approximately 68 inches
(152203 mm) long, on the thermostat
housing and add enough coolant to fill the
housing.
4. Remove the fan belt from the water pump.
5. Start the engine and run at 1000 rpm.
6. Observe coolant in the thermostat housing
for air bubbles. This can indicate combustion
pressurization of the cooling system and
possible cylinder head gasket failure. Also,
watch for traces of oil which would indicate
possible cylinder head gasket or oil passage
leakage.
It is normal for some air bubbles to form in the

cooling system as a result of the engine warming
up to operating temperature.
The occurrence of large gulp-type movements
of coolant indicates a partially blocked oil cooler
inlet screen (bundle-type oil cooler only).
7. Apply a soap-and-water solution between
two cylinder heads to check for external
combustion leakage.
Page 71
TROUBLESHOOTING
Cylinder Head Fuel Passages Leak
Check In Chassis
Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head

Coolant Passages Leak Check In
Chassis
Refer to Figure 64.
The symptoms of coolant-in-fuel are a loss of

coolant with no apparent external leak, together
with one or more of the following: coolant in fuel
tank, coolant in fuel filter or yellow fuel out of fuel
return line.
1. Disconnect the return fuel interconnecting
tube between the front and rear cylinder
heads. Run a line from each cylinder head
into a container.
2. Pressurize the cooling system with a
maximum of 15 psi (103 kPa) air pressure
and look for coolant coming out of a fuel
return line.
3. An alternate method is to disconnect the fuel
return line at the front of the front cylinder
head. Introduce a maximum air pressure of
25 psi (172 kPa) to the fitting in the cylinder
head. Then look for air bubbles in the
coolant.
4. After determining which cylinder head is
suspected of leaking, remove the nozzles
from that cylinder head and pressurize the
cooling system with a maximum of 15 psi
(103 kPa). Look into each nozzle sleeve
bore for signs of coolant leakage.
5. A cracked or leaking nozzle sleeve should
be replaced as an on-engine repair using the
procedures described under Engine
Disassembly procedures in the REPAIR
INSTRUCTIONS section. If after replacing
the nozzle sleeve(s) the re-pressure test
shows that the problem still exists, the
cylinder head(s) should be replaced.
1. Drain coolant from the engine.

2. Remove the engine oil pan and cylinder
head valve covers.
3. Remove the water pump assembly and use
a suitable plate and gasket to seal the
opening.
4. Remove the upper and lower hoses from the
thermostat housing. Remove the thermostat
housing and thermostat.
5. Secure a suitable plate and gasket over the
thermostat housing opening in the coolant
manifold.
6. Install an air fitting into one of the pipe plug
holes in the coolant manifold.
7. Reinforce the hose connecting the coolant
manifold sections by installing a hose clamp
around the center of the hose to prevent it
from rupturing during testing.
8. Remove one of the large pipe plugs from the
water manifold and add hot water to fill the
cooling system. Increase cylinder block
temperature to 150F (66C). Loosen one of
the pipe plugs near the top of the cylinder
block to bleed air from the water jacket while
filling. Also open the block drain to allow
water to flow out. This will help warm the
cylinder block. Tighten the loosened pipe
plug after all of the trapped air has escaped.
9. After the cylinder block is sufficiently heated,
close the block drain and apply
approximately 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure
to the air connection.
Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure.

Damage to seals or cup plugs may result.
Page 72
TROUBLESHOOTING
10. Check for coolant leaks at the bottom of
each cylinder bore.
r
Coolant leaking between the cylinder

sleeve outside diameter and cylinder
block indicates a leaking cylinder
sleeve seat.
Coolant leaking down the inside

diameter of the cylinder sleeve
indicates a leaking head gasket.
Water leaking from the No. 2 or No. 5 cam

bushings or from the No. 2 or No. 5 main
bearings can indicate a breakthrough between
the rocker arm feed passage and the water jacket
(cylinder head).
Refer to the repair procedures in this manual to
correct leaks.
64
Figure 64 Cylinder Block/Cylinder Head Leak Check (In Chassis)
Page 73
TROUBLESHOOTING
Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak
Check Out of Chassis
4. Bolt the modified bracket with air fitting to

the cylinder head over the oil supply
passage.
Refer to Figure 65.
5. Immerse the cylinder head in water. Heat the

water and cylinder head to 150F (66C).
1. Remove the cylinder head from the engine.
6. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to

the air fitting adapter installed in the rocker
arm oil passage. Check for air bubbles. The
formation of air bubbles indicates internal
leakage between the cylinder head oil
passage and the water jacket.
2. Install a suitable plug to seal the rocker arm

oil passage at deck side of the head. There
are two ways to plug the hole:
r
Drill and tap the oil passage to accept a

pipe plug.
Insert a suitable rubber plug and clamp

the plug in position with a C-clamp.
3. Install an air fitting in the rocker arm

passage in the top of the head. Use a
discarded rocker arm bracket with an oil
feed passage. Cut the bracket through the
rocker arm shaft bore parallel to the
mounting base surface. Drill and tap the oil
supply passage to accept an air fitting.
Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals

or cup plugs may result.
65
Figure 65 Cylinder Head Oil Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)

1. Modified Bracket with Air Fitting
Page 74
2. Plug (Pipe or Rubber)
TROUBLESHOOTING
Cylinder Head Coolant Passage
Leak Check Out of Chassis
3. Use suitable plate and gasket to seal the

water manifold openings. Install an air fitting
onto the plate.
Refer to Figure 66.
4. Immerse the cylinder head in water. Heat the

water and head to 150F (66C).
1. Remove cylinder head from the engine.

2. Fabricate a suitable 3/4-inch thick (19.1 mm)
steel plate and a 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) rubber
gasket. The plate must have cutouts for the
entire combustion chamber. Position plate
and gasket assembly on the underside of
head and secure with C-clamps, or with
head bolts if the plate has been drilled for
bolts.
5. Apply up to 50 psi (345 kPa) air pressure to

the fitting installed in the plate covering the
water manifold opening. Check for air
bubbles. The formation of air bubbles
indicates that the cylinder head coolant
passages may be leaking.
66
Figure 66 Cylinder Head Coolant Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)
Page 75
TROUBLESHOOTING
Cylinder Block Coolant Passage
Leak Check Out of Chassis
Refer to Figure 67.
1. Fabricate two 3/4-inch thick (19.1 mm) steel
plates to simulate cylinder heads. The plates
must have cutouts for the head capscrews
and liners. Use a 1/4-inch (6.4 mm) thick
rubber gasket as a seal. Install the plates
onto the cylinder block.
As an alternative to step 1, conduct the test using

two known leak-free cylinder heads complete with
gaskets and fire rings in place of the steel plates.
With this alternative, a water manifold (with the
outlet end sealed) can be used to seal off the
cylinder head coolant ports. Fittings can be
installed on the water manifold to introduce the
heated water and air pressure needed for the
test.
2. Remove the water pump assembly and seal
the opening with a suitable plate and rubber
gasket. The plate must be fabricated with
adapters so that water heated to 150F
(66C) and pressurized to 50 psi (345 kPa)
can be introduced into the system.
3. Apply approximately 50 psi (345 kPa) air
pressure into the cooling system. Visually
inspect the cylinder block for signs of air and
water leaks.
Do not exceed 50 psi (345 kPa). Damage to seals

or cup plugs may result.
Page 76
TROUBLESHOOTING
67
Figure 67 Cylinder Block Coolant Passage Leak Check (Out of Chassis)

1. Cylinder Block
2. 1/4-inch Rubber Gaskets
3. 3/4-inch Steel Plates
4. Rubber Gasket
5. Plate with Air/Water Inlet Fittings
Page 77
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE BRAKE TESTS
(MACK E-TECH ENGINE
WITH J-TECH ENGINE
BRAKE)
Operational Tests
Before beginning the troubleshooting procedures,
try to determine the exact nature of the problem.
Talk to the driver, owner and/or mechanic to
pinpoint the complaint or problem. The following
checks may be helpful in trying to determine the
nature of the problem.
TEST DRIVE
1. Test drive the vehicle and measure intake
manifold boost pressure while operating the
engine brake. Refer to the Table on page 78
for boost pressures.
RETARDING BOOST PRESSURES (PSI)
MACK E7 300A E-Tech Engine (Schwitzer S-300
Pre-12/99 S-400S Post 12/99 Turbo)
2100 rpm 18 psi Boost
BEFORE STARTING THE ENGINE

If there is a report of engine or engine brake
noise, remove the engine covers to determine the
cause.
1. Check for broken or loose parts.
2. Check valve and engine brake lash settings.
3. Check for possible bent valves or push rods.
Possible causes of bent valves or push rods
could be:
Engine overspeeding Usually several

valves are affected.
One bent exhaust valve or push rod This
indicates a possible problem with a stuck
master or slave piston, damaged slave
piston adjusting screw (reset screw) or
excessive oil pressure. See the Table on
page 81 for oil pressure requirements.
A bent exhaust valve may be caused by the
valve stem stuck in its guide, bad yoke
adjustment, or broken or weak valve
springs.

MACK EM7 275, 300 and E7 310/330 E-Tech Engines
(Schwitzer S-300 Pre-12/99 S-400S Post 12/99
Turbo)
MACK E7 300, 330/350, 350, 355/380, 400 E-Tech
Engines (Schwitzer S-300 Pre-12/99 S-400S Post
12/99 Turbo)
MACK E7 427, 460 E-Tech Engines (Schwitzer S-400
Pre-12/99 S-400S Post 12/99 Turbo)
Page 78
TROUBLESHOOTING
If the vehicle does not have a boost pressure

gauge, one must be installed. A pipe plug is
located in the air inlet manifold for this purpose.
2. It is best to conduct the test with a loaded
vehicle, engine at maximum rated rpm and
the engine brake ON. Downhill operation is
desirable to stabilize rpm.
3. Record the maximum boost pressure with
both housings (HI position).
4. Record the boost pressure with the switch in
the LO position.
If insufficient electrical power is reaching the

engine brake, perform the preliminary checks
outlined below. For more information, see the
V-MAC III Service Manual, 8-211.
NO ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
1. Check for a blown fuse or circuit breaker.
2. With electrical power OFF, check the control
system for a short to ground. Check systems
separately to isolate where the short is
occurring. If the control system is OK up to
the engine brake spacer connection,
measure the resistance to the solenoid
valve. High resistance means an open
circuit in the solenoid or solenoid wire.
ONLY ONE HOUSING OPERATING
LO position may be either front or rear housing.

5. Disconnect the LO position harness to the
solenoid and rerun the test with the switch in
the HI position. Record the results.
The individual housing readings will not be half of

the maximum boost pressure reading due to the
effect of the turbocharger. The individual boost
pressure readings, however, should be
approximately the same.
6. A significantly lower reading in one housing
indicates a possible problem with the
housing. Compare the maximum boost
pressure with the boost pressures in the
Table on page 78. A low reading indicates a
possible problem. Readings within 3 psi of
the values shown indicate proper operation
of the engine brake.
Electrical Troubleshooting
The J-Tech engine brake is activated by the
V-MAC system. When the ignition switch is
turned ON, the engine brake solenoids are
supplied a constant 12-volt direct current with
current flow increasing whenever the engine
brake is activated. To properly diagnose electrical
problems with the brake, an ammeter may be
required.
1. Determine which housing is not operating by

closing all the switches and checking the
power at the wires leading to the solenoid
valves (front and rear).
2. Remove the wire to the solenoid valve at the
spacer and check for resistance (the Table
on page 80). No reading indicates an open
circuit in the wire or solenoid coil. A low
resistance reading indicates a short to
ground in the solenoid wire or solenoid coil.
A constant 12-volt low amperage signal is

supplied to the engine brake solenoids by the
V-MAC III module when the ignition switch is
turned on. During an engine braking event,
V-MAC increases the current to the solenoids to
activate the engine brake. The most accurate
method of checking electrical functionality of the
engine brake solenoids circuit is by using an
ammeter to measure current at the solenoids
when the engine brake is activated. When the
engine brake is activated, current should be
approximately 1.59 amps. For additional
information, consult the V-MAC III Service
Manual, 8-211.
3. Test the solenoid by checking for current
draw and pull-in voltage per specifications
listed in the Table on page 80.
Page 79
TROUBLESHOOTING
SOLENOID SPECIFICATIONS
12-Volt Solenoid:
Resistance 8.7 to 10.0 ohms
Current Draw 0.9 to 1.6 amps
Pull In Voltage 9 volts DC minimum
24-Volt Solenoid:
Resistance 32.6 to 39.8 ohms
Valve clearance must be checked with the timing

pointer hole on the flywheel housing aligned with
the proper valve setting mark on the flywheel for
the cylinder being checked. This ensures that the
valve lifter is on the camshaft base circle and not
on the brake ramp portion of the lobe.
Current Draw 0.46 to 0.75 amps

Pull In Voltage 18 volts DC minimum
INTERMITTENT BRAKING
Inspect all wiring for loose connections and all
switches for proper adjustment.
POOR PERFORMANCE
Connect a volt/ohmmeter (multimeter) to the
electrical connector on the spacer. Verify that a
steady voltage signal is present when the engine
brake is active. If not, check for loose connections
or faulty switches. Repeat for all spacer
terminals.
Hydraulic/Mechanical
Troubleshooting
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED
r
Wear eye protection and do not expose your

face over the engine area. Keep hands away
from moving parts. Take precautions to
prevent oil leakage down onto the engine.
Whenever engine is running and the cylinder
head covers are removed, oil splashing in the
engine brake area could cause personal
injury.
Never remove any engine brake component
with the engine running. Personal injury may
result.
Slave piston clearance settings must be made

with the engine stopped and cold and with the
exhaust valves closed.
Jacobs Oil Pressure Test Kit 4559-18280
Remove the covers to begin inspecting the brake

housings and attendant hardware.
SLAVE PISTON CLEARANCE SETTINGS

E-Tech Engine with J-Tech Engine Brake
Adjustment 0.015 inches (0.381 mm)
GENERAL INSPECTION AND ADJUSTMENT

VERIFICATION
1. Visually inspect the brake units for obvious
damage or missing parts. Replace as
necessary.
2. Check the slave piston-to-actuator pin for
proper clearance as shown in the Table on
page 80. Also check the intake and exhaust
valve clearance. Readjust if necessary.
Page 80
Slave piston adjusting tool standard feeler gauge

Adjust following the firing order 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4
DETERMINING ENGINE OIL PRESSURE AND

OIL PRESSURE AT THE ENGINE BRAKE
UNITS
The engine brake requires a minimum oil
pressure to operate. To determine the oil
pressure at the engine brake housing solenoid
valves, use the Jacobs oil pressure test kit (part
No. 4559-18280) and follow the instructions
included in the kit. See the Table on page 81 for
oil pressure requirements.
TROUBLESHOOTING
The engine oil temperature must be within normal

operating range when the test is performed.
If the oil pressure remains low, correct the engine
problem as described under OIL PRESSURE
DROPPING BELOW MINIMUM REQUIRED FOR
ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION in the
Troubleshooting Guide included in this section.
Remove control valve retaining components

carefully to avoid personal injury. Control
valve retaining components are under load
from the control valve springs.
3. The control valve must move freely in the
bore. If not, remove it and replace with a
new control valve.
OIL PRESSURE REQUIREMENTS

E-Tech Engine with J-Tech Engine Brake
Engine rpm 2100 40 psi (2.8 bar)
Engine rpm 1700 35 psi (2.4 bar)*
* Specified pressures with engine at normal operating
temperatures
INSPECTION OF ENGINE BRAKE

COMPONENTS
If oil pressure at the brake housings is sufficient
for brake operation, then inspect the engine
brake components for excess wear, damage or
malfunctioning conditions described in this
section.
1. Start the engine and allow it to idle for a few
minutes. Check for oil leakage at the oil
supply screw, solenoid valve and housing
pipe plugs. Oil leakage can result in weak,
intermittent or no braking. If leakage is
found, shut down the engine and replace
seals or repair as needed.
When the engine is shut down for several
minutes, the oil in the brake housings will
bleed down. To refill the brake housings for
immediate operation, depress the solenoid
cap (pin) several times to fill the housing
with engine oil.
2. With the engine brake on, observe that the
master pistons are moving out of the
housing and making contact with the
exhaust rocker spherical nuts. They should
move in and out freely. If they do not, shut
down the engine and check the control
valves and control valve springs for those
cylinders.
If the bore is damaged (scored), use a light

crocus cloth to smooth the bore. Clean the bore
and install a new control valve. If severe damage
to the bore is found, replace the housing.
4. Replace any broken springs.
5. If the control valves and springs are OK and
the master and slave pistons were observed
not to be operating, remove the housings for
inspection.
Visually inspect the following:
Master piston springs If broken or worn,

replace the springs.
Master pistons Pistons must move freely
in the bore. Check the hard facing on the
master piston for damage; this is the area
that contacts the spherical nut.
Spherical nut rocker adjusting screw
Check the spherical nut for excessive wear.
If a depression of 0.005 inch or deeper is
found in the top of the spherical nut or if the
pattern of wipe extends beyond the edge of
the nut, replace the spherical nut. Also,
replace the companion master piston. The
spherical end of the rocker adjusting screw
should be checked for proper contour and
smooth appearance. Replace if necessary.
Internal check valve components If the
housing contains internal check valve
components and a hollow oil supply screw,
remove the check valve components (ball,
spring, retaining ring and washer) from the
housing and replace the hollow oil supply
screw with the current-production screw
containing an integral check valve.
Oil supply screws Check for damage and
replace if necessary.
Page 81
TROUBLESHOOTING
6. Check the screw and pin assembly to
ensure that the pin is not bent or damaged.
The pin should not stick in the screw at any
point in its travel. There should be no signs
of mushrooming or other damage where the
slave piston contacts the screw. Check to
ensure that the retainer is in place on the top
of the pin, making the pin captive in the
screw. Replace the screw and pin assembly
as a unit, if necessary.
7. Remove and inspect the reset screw. A
spring-loaded plunger located at the bottom
of the screw seals the hole in the slave
piston to provide proper master/slave
operation. A stuck plunger or any debris will
cause the hole in the slave piston to be
uncovered prematurely, dumping oil
pressure and shutting down the circuit. The
reset screw prevents overtravel of the slave
piston and exhaust valve to engine piston
contact.
Reset screw assemblies are not field serviceable.

8. Remove the slave pistons, using the
following procedure.
4. Turn the handle slowly until the retainer is

depressed to about 1/32 inch (1 mm),
relieving pressure against the retaining ring.
5. Remove the retaining ring using retaining
ring pliers. Back out the holder until the
springs are loose, and remove the fixture.
Remove all components, ensuring that there
is no binding or burrs. Clean in an approved
cleaning solvent. Inspect parts and replace
as necessary.
6. A shiny, smooth contact surface on the reset
screw plunger and slave piston is normal. If
a rough surface exists on the plunger and/or
slave piston, replace the parts. There should
be a light spring force on the plunger and it
should move freely. If not, replace the reset
screw assembly.
7. Use the clamp fixture to reinstall the piston
and springs. Be sure the retaining rings are
placed on the retainer before screwing the
clamp holder down.
8. Compress the slave piston springs down
until the retainer is about 1/32 inch (1 mm)
below the retaining ring groove. Reinstall the
retaining ring. Be sure the retaining ring is
fully seated in the groove.
9. Remove the clamp fixture slowly to ensure
proper seating of retaining ring.
Wear safety glasses.
Final Test
The slave piston is retained by springs that

are under heavy compression. If the following
instructions are not followed and proper tools
not used, the springs will be discharged with
enough force to cause personal injury.
Follow the instructions in the installation manual

to reassemble the housings. Install a new oil
supply seal ring.
SLAVE PISTON REMOVAL

1. Remove the locknut on the slave piston
adjusting screw. Back out the adjusting
screw until the slave piston is fully retracted
(screw is loose).
2. Place the hole in the slave piston clamp
fixture over the slave piston adjusting screw.
Replace locknut. Finger-tighten to hold
fixture securely.
3. While holding the fixture in position, screw
the holder down over the slave piston until
the spring retainer is contacted.
Page 82
1. Install the housings on the engine and adjust

the slave piston clearance to the proper
settings shown in the Table on page 80.
2. Before installing the engine covers, start the
engine and allow it to warm up for a few
minutes.
3. Depress the solenoid valve several times to
fill the housing with engine oil.
Engine brakes require a minimum oil pressure for

operation. If there is less than minimum at idle,
run the engine at higher rpm (800900) when
making checks. See the Table on page 81 for oil
pressure requirements.
TROUBLESHOOTING
4. Check for oil leaks at the oil supply screw,
solenoid valve and housing pipe plugs. If
leakage is noticed, shut down the engine
and repair the leaks.
Some leakage will be seen at the master piston,

slave piston and control valves. This is normal.
Excessive leakage must be investigated (see
Hydraulic/Mechanical Troubleshooting).
Incorrect electrical power source

Check that the supply voltage is the
appropriate voltage. Recommended power
source is from the key switch ON position.
Ensure that power is not taken from a
source with an additional on/off switch, i.e.,
light switch. See solenoid specifications in
the Table on page 80. Make sure wiring is in
accordance with MACK wiring instructions.
Low engine oil pressure Determine oil

pressure at engine brakes (solenoid valve
and control valve); see oil pressure
requirements in the Table on page 80. If oil
pressure is below specification, the engine
should be repaired in accordance with
MACK procedures.
Slave lash not properly adjusted The

model 690 engine brake is very sensitive to
adjustment. Incorrect adjustment may hold
the valves open during positive power,
leading to engine failure, or may cause the
engine brake to work poorly or not at all.
Confirm that the engine brake is properly
adjusted in accordance with the Table on
page 80.
5. After final inspection and necessary repair,

shut down the engine and replace the
gaskets and covers.
6. Test drive the vehicle following the Test
Drive procedures (covered earlier) to verify
corrective action.
Troubleshooting Guide
Following is a listing of problem conditions
showing the probable causes and subsequent
corrections.
ENGINE FAILS TO START
r
Solenoid valve stuck in ON position

Ensure that electrical current is off to the
engine brake units. If the solenoid valve
remains on (cap down) with current off,
replace the solenoid valve.
ENGINE BRAKE WILL NOT OPERATE

r
Blown fuse, open electrical leads Look

for a short circuit in the wiring. Replace any
broken, brittle or chafed wires. Check
solenoid tab for signs of shorting and
replace if necessary. Replace 10 amp fuse.
On/Off switch, clutch switch or multiposition switch out of adjustment or

defective Use a volt/ohm meter to make
certain that there is electrical voltage
available at both terminals of each switch.
Readjust if needed or replace if voltage will
not pass through switch.
ENGINE BRAKE DOES NOT OPERATE AT

LOW ENGINE RPM
r
Inlet check valve leaking Earlyproduction engine brake housings contained

a check valve (with ball, spring, retaining
ring and washer) assembled into the
housing. In June 2000, the housings internal
check valve components and hollow oil
supply screw were replaced by a new oil
supply screw containing an integral check
valve. If the housing contains the earlyproduction internal check valve components
and a hollow oil supply screw, remove the
check valve components (ball, spring,
retaining ring and washer) from the housing
and replace the hollow oil supply screw with
the current-production screw containing an
integral check valve.
Do not touch electrical connection when

system is energized.
Page 83
TROUBLESHOOTING
ENGINE BRAKE ACTIVATES WITH SWITCHES
OPEN (OFF)
r
Solenoid valve seal center ring

damaged Remove solenoid and replace
all three seal rings.
Engine brake improperly wired Check

wiring in accordance with MACK wiring
diagrams.
Control valves binding in housing

bore Remove control valve. If body is
scored, replace the control valve. Check for
contaminants in lube oil. Clean housing and
control valve. If binding continues, replace
housing.
Control valve defective Remove control

valve. Make sure check ball is seated in
bore and can be moved off seat. Make sure
there is spring pressure against the ball.
Flush in cleaning solvent. Replace if
necessary.
Switch operation sluggish Check dash

switches, clutch switch, or other control
switches. Readjust or replace as required.
Check clutch return springs for proper
operation. Check all controls for correct
operation and replace as required.
Solenoid valve operation erratic Check

solenoid valve using electrical specifications
presented in the Table on page 80.
Disconnect the solenoid lead and provide
12 volts directly to the solenoid. Ensure that
the solenoid cap depresses.
ENGINE BRAKE SLOW TO OPERATE OR

WEAK IN EFFECT
r
Lube oil cold and thick Allow engine to

warm before operating brakes.
Improper slave piston adjustment or

slave piston sticking in bore Readjust
in accordance with the Table on page 80.
Ensure that the slave piston responds
smoothly to the reset screw by loosening the
jam nut and turning the screw through its full
travel for full slave piston motion. Make sure
piston travels the full range without binding
or sticking.
Remove the slave piston carefully when

disassembly is necessary. Use Jacobs slave
piston tool part No. 4559-25084. Slave piston
springs are under heavy compression.
r
Reset screw not properly sealing

Remove reset screw and check for debris on
the plunger or surface of the slave piston.
Check to ensure that plunger moves freely
with light pressure. Tip of plunger should be
smooth and free of nicks or scratches.
Replace reset screw if necessary.
Lower solenoid seal damaged allowing

oil to exit the housing Remove solenoid
valve and replace all seal rings.
Solenoid screen clogged stopping

supply of oil to brake Remove solenoid
valve and clean screen.
Master piston not moving in bore

Inspect master piston and bore for scoring or
burrs. If any are present, clean the surface
with crocus cloth. If unable to remove burrs,
replace piston or housing. Inspect lube oil for
signs of contaminants. If any are present,
replace oil and filter and correct cause of
contamination.
Page 84
Do not touch electrical connection when

system is energized.
OIL PRESSURE DROPPING BELOW MINIMUM

REQUIRED FOR ENGINE BRAKE OPERATION
r
Upper solenoid seal ring damaged

Remove solenoid. Inspect seal ring and
replace all seal rings.
Aeration of lubricating oil Check for

aeration of the oil. Activate, then deactivate
engine brake and observe escape oil
coming from control valve cover. If oil has
bubbles or is foamy, air is present in system.
Aeration can be caused by an overfilled or
underfilled crankcase, or a crack or other
leak in the oil pickup tube. Correct in
accordance with MACK procedures.
Lubricating oil being diluted by fuel oil

Have an oil analysis of lube oil to determine
if fuel is present. Correct per MACK
procedures.
Low engine oil level Consult engine

manual for specifications. Add oil or
recalibrate dipstick as required.
TROUBLESHOOTING
r
Worn rocker arm bores or shaft

journals Inspect rocker arm bores and
shaft journals. Repair as required.
Worn crankshaft bearings or camshaft

bushings Replace bearings and
bushings in accordance with MACK
overhaul procedures.
Center solenoid seal ring damaged

(allows oil to enter brake with solenoid
valve closed) Remove solenoid and
replace all seal rings.
Solenoid valve exhaust plugged

Remove any restrictions at exhaust (bottom)
of solenoid valve.
Clutch switch stuck in ON position or out

of adjustment Check for proper
operation. Readjust or replace as needed.
ONE OR MORE CYLINDERS FAIL TO STOP

BRAKING OR ENGINE STALLS
r
Control valve inner spring broken

Replace inner spring.
ENGINE MISSES OR LOSES POWER
One or more control valves stuck in ON

or UP position Check control valves for
binding. Remove and clean, or replace if
necessary. Inspect lube oil for contaminates.
Solenoid valve sticking in ON position

If solenoid valve cap remains down with no
electric current being supplied, replace the
solenoid valve.
SUDDEN DROP IN ENGINE LUBE OIL

PRESSURE
r
Slave piston adjustment too tight

Readjust slave piston clearance in
accordance with the Table on page 80.
Upper solenoid valve seal missing or

damaged Remove solenoid and replace
upper seal ring.
Page 85
NOTES
Page 86
MAINTENANCE
MAINTENANCE
Page 87
MAINTENANCE
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM
TENSIONING
[216]
The belt drive system uses a single, 10-rib poly-v
belt to drive the alternator, water pump, and fan
drive. A separate single-v belt, running off the
water pump pulley, drives the refrigerant
compressor. The service life of the poly-v belt is
considerably improved over other systems and
allows the use of higher horsepower cooling fans.
Refer to Figure 68.
Both manually tensioned and automatically
tensioned systems are used. Whether an engine
has the manually tensioned or automatically
tensioned system depends on the specific engine
configuration and application. The following
service information covers both systems.
Manually Tensioned System

INSTALLATION
Loosen the alternator mounting bolts and pivot
the alternator inboard, far enough to allow the
belt to be placed over the pulleys without force.
Do not pry the belt over a pulley.
TENSIONING
Using a belt tension gauge, such as J 41251-B
from Kent-Moore, check the belt tension at the
widest span between pulleys. Adjust belt tension
according to the following specifications:
r
New belt: 270 lbs. 10 lbs.
Used belt: 230 lbs. 10 lbs.
Minimum allowable tension (before

retension is required): 150 lbs.
68
MAINTENANCE
The belt tension and condition of the belt should
be checked when performing preventive
maintenance inspections A, B, C and D as
outlined in the Maintenance and Lubrication
manual, TS494. Belts should be tightened when
needed, using the procedures described in this
manual.
Automatically Tensioned System

INSTALLATION
Swing the tensioner to the fully sprung position
and, without force, place the belt over the pulleys.
Do not allow the tensioner to snap against its
stops. Do not pry the belt over a pulley.
TENSIONING
No tensioning adjustment is required. Once the
tensioner is released against the belt, the belt is
tightened to optimum tension automatically at all
speeds and loads.
MAINTENANCE
Figure 68 Belt Drive
1. A/C Compressor
2. Water Pump
3. Alternator
Page 88
4. Poly-V Belt
5. Tensioning Device
The condition of the belt and tensioner should be

checked when performing preventive
maintenance inspections A, B, C and D as
outlined in the Maintenance and Lubrication
manual, TS494. Belt tension level need not be
checked as long as tensioner is in good condition
and there is no evidence of a loose belt.
MAINTENANCE
FILTER ELEMENT
REPLACEMENT
Figure 69. Regardless of the canister style, the

breather filter element can be cleaned if it has
become plugged following the procedure in this
section.
General Information
69
The engine may be equipped with either a cast

aluminum or fiberglass-reinforced nylon
crankcase breather filter canister as shown in
Figure 69 Canister Housings

1. Fiberglass-Reinforced Nylon Housing
2. Breather Cover
3. Cover O-Ring
4. Filter Element
5. Housing Mount O-Ring/Gasket
Page 89
MAINTENANCE
Crankcase Breather Filter Cleaning
Oil Filter Element Replacement
[219 ER]
[219 EV]
1. Remove the canister cover by unthreading it

from the housing.
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED
2. Place a thin-blade screwdriver between the

outside diameter of the element and the
canister housing (Figure 70). Then, remove
the element by rotating the screwdriver and
element while exerting upward pressure.
Fuel and Oil Filter Wrench J 24783
Oil Filter Wrench J 29927
3. Wash the element in shop solvent and blow

dry with shop air.
Two different oil filter mounting adapter designs

are used, one for engines with the removable
bundle-type oil cooler and another for engines
with the plate-type cooler.
4. Reinstall the element in the canister housing.
GENERAL INFORMATION
5. Install and tighten the canister cover.

Engines with removable bundle-type oil
coolers The plunger-style oil filter bypass
relief valve used in early production oil filter
mounting adapters was replaced with a poppetstyle valve in November 1997 (beginning with
engine serial number series 7V). With this
change, the oil filter mounting adapter was
redesigned to accommodate the poppet-style
relief valve and to eliminate the section that
contained the plunger-style valve. When
performing an oil and filter change, it is suggested
that functionality of the poppet-style relief valve
be checked by pushing against the viton disk to
verify spring tension.
70
Engines with plate-type oil coolers The oil

filter mounting adapters on these engines are
also fitted with the poppet-style valve. Again, the
functionality of the poppet-style relief valve can
be checked by pushing against the viton disk to
verify spring tension each time the oil and filters
are replaced.
Centri-Max filter assemblies There are
different style rotors used in both the externally
drained and internally drained Centri-Max
assemblies. As such, it is important that the
proper rotor be used in the Centri-Max unit for
which it was designed.
Figure 70 Breather Filter Element Removal (Cast
Aluminum Housing Shown)
Page 90
From the inception of the Centri-Max filter

assembly (externally drained), the rounded end of
the original rotor (part No. 236GB244A) had
several straight ribs radiating from the center of
the rotor, like spokes of a wheel.
MAINTENANCE
Effective September 1998, a more efficient
swept rotor (part No. 236GB244B) was
implemented into production. The swept rotor is
easily identified by the ribs on the rounded end,
which are now curved rather than straight.
The Centri-Max PLUS (internally drained) unit
also uses the swept rotor design, but the
bushings in each end of the rotor are of a smaller
inside diameter to fit over the smaller diameter
spindle used with the internally drained

configuration. This rotor (part No. 236GB245M)
must be used with the Centri-Max PLUS filter. If
either of the other two rotor part numbers are
used, they will be loose on the spindle and will not
rotate. If the rotor does not rotate, the centrifugal
filter will not function. The Centri-Max PLUS
canister carries the warning to use only rotor
No. 236GB245M. No other rotor will work.
71
Figure 71 Centri-Max Rotors
DISPOSABLE SPIN-ON OIL FILTER

REPLACEMENT
6. Install the filters and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn

after the gasket contacts the base.
Change oil and replace oil filters using the

following procedure:
7. Fill the crankcase with the recommended

engine oil. If the engine is equipped with a
REPTO unit, add one additional quart.
1. Run the engine until normal operating

temperature is reached. Then, shut off the
engine and drain the oil before the engine
cools.
2. Thoroughly clean the area around the filters
before removing.
3. Using tool J 24783, remove both spin-on
filters and wipe the filter mounting base
clean.
4. Prefill each filter with 2 quarts (1.9 liters) of
the specified engine oil. DO NOT allow any
contaminants to enter the filters while
prefilling.
8. Start the engine and check for leaks. Run

the engine for approximately five minutes,
then shut it off and recheck the oil level. Add
oil if necessary.
Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters

may cause damage and void the engine
warranty. Change filters according to the
recommended maintenance schedule.
5. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing

gasket on each new filter.
Page 91
MAINTENANCE
CENTRI-MAX FILTER REPLACEMENT
(Externally Drained Filter)
1. Clean the area around the centrifugal filter
before removing the drain hose.
2. Loosen the hose clamp at the bottom of the
filter housing and disconnect the drain hose.
3. Loosen the hose clamp at the cylinder block
drain and rotate the hose out of the way.
4. Using tool J 24783, remove the centrifugal
oil filter housing.
Be sure to apply the filter removal tool on the filter

housing at the point marked WRENCH HERE.
5. Remove and discard the filter seal and rotor.
Clean the filter housing.
6. Install a new filter seal and rotor in the filter
housing.
7. Apply a thin film of engine oil to the sealing
gasket. Install the centrifugal filter housing
and tighten the housing an additional 3/4 turn
BY HAND after the gasket contacts the base.
8. Install the drain hose on the base of the filter
housing and tighten the hose clamps at the
cylinder block and filter housing.
9. Start the engine and check for leaks.
CENTRI-MAX PLUS FILTER REPLACEMENT

(Internally Drained Filter)
1. To prevent contamination from entering the
engine, thoroughly clean the area around
the centrifugal oil filter (Figure 72) before
removing the cover assembly.
2. Loosen the nut at the top of the cover
assembly, then remove the cover.
3. Remove and discard the rotor.
4. Clean the inside of the cover assembly.
5. Install a new rotor over the spindle.
Use only the rotor designed for use with the

Centri-Max PLUS centrifugal filter assembly.
Any other rotor will not work.
6. Remove and discard the seal from the cover
assembly.
7. Install a new seal.
8. Apply a thin film of clean engine oil to the seal.
9. Install the cover assembly.
10. Tighten the cover assembly nut to 15 lb-ft
(20 Nm).
72
Figure 72 Centri-Max PLUS Oil Filter Assembly

1. Cover Bolt
2. Centri-Max PLUS Cover Assembly
Page 92
3. Centri-Max PLUS Rotor (Part No. 236GB245M)

4. O-Ring
MAINTENANCE
CENTRI-MAX PLUS SPINDLE
REPLACEMENT
[219 EV]
Normally, it should never be necessary to replace
the Centri-Max PLUS rotor spindle. However, if
the spindle is damaged in any way, replacement
procedures are as follows:
73
Fuel Filter Replacement

[224 KP, 231 PV]
GENERAL INFORMATION
Special high filtration fuel filters have been
developed for the E-Tech engine. These filters
have metric mounting threads and can be
identified by the two 1/4-inch wide bands around
the circumference of the filter. Figure 74 shows
the fuel filters required for the E-Tech engine.
Attempting to install E7 filters with English

threads on an E-Tech engine (that has metric
threaded spuds) will cause the following to occur:
Primary Filter The diameters of the filter
threads and the threaded spud are close in size.
Although the filter can be started on the spud
threads using force, the threads will be damaged.
Secondary Filter The diameter of the filter
threads is smaller than the diameter of the
threaded spud. Consequently, the filter cannot be
installed.
Figure 73 Centri-Max PLUS Rotor Spindle

Replacement
1. Cover Bolt (Tighten to
15 lb-ft [20 Nm])
2. Rotor Cover
3. Rotor
4. Spindle (Tighten to
1520 lb-ft [2027 Nm])
Attempting to install E-Tech filters (with metric

threads) on an E7 engine with English threads
would not result in damage to the threads. The
diameters of the filter threads are large enough to
prevent installation of the filters.
74
1. Remove the existing rotor spindle.

2. Using Loctite Primer T, thoroughly clean
the threads of the new spindle, along with
the threads inside the oil filter mounting
bracket where the spindle will be installed.
3. Apply Loctite 271 to the threads of the new
spindle.
4. Assemble the spindle to the oil filter
mounting bracket and tighten to 1520 lb-ft
(2027 Nm).
5. Allow the Loctite to cure for 24 hours before
starting the engine.
Figure 74 Fuel Filters
Page 93
MAINTENANCE
REPLACEMENT PROCEDURE
Coolant Conditioner Replacement
Install fuel filters using the following procedure.
[125 LD]
1. Wipe the filter mounting base clean.

2. Apply a film of clean engine oil to the sealing
gasket.
3. Fill the filter with clean fuel.
4. Install the filter and tighten 3/4 to 1 turn after
gasket contacts the base.
Use of anything other than genuine MACK filters

may cause damage and void the engine
warranty. Change filters according to the
recommended maintenance schedule.
If the engine fails to start after installing new fuel

filters, refer to Priming the Fuel System under
Engine Final Preparation and Operational Check.
Page 94
If the engine is equipped with the optional coolant

conditioner, the conditioner element is replaced
as follows:
1. Place a suitable container below the coolant
filter area to catch any spilled coolant.
2. Using a suitable filter wrench (J 29927, or
equivalent), remove the coolant conditioner
filter element and discard.
3. Apply a light film of oil on the face of the new
filter element gasket seal.
4. Install the filter element on the coolant
conditioner base assembly. Using tool
J 24783, tighten the filter element one full
turn after gasket contacts the base.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Page 95
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE REMOVAL
General Instructions
Details of the engine removal procedure vary
from one vehicle to another. This section provides
general guidelines for removing the engine from
the vehicle.
Before beginning engine removal, make sure all

equipment is available for use and has been
inspected for safety.
Removal from Vehicle

1. Remove the hood (if so equipped) and
position it away from the work area to
prevent accidents or hood damage to
conventional models. On cab over engine
models, tilt cab forward.
2. Place a suitable container beneath the
engine and drain the engine oil and coolant.
Open the coolant drain valves in the block, if
applicable.
3. Using an appropriated filter wrench, remove
the oil filters, fuel filters and coolant
conditioner.
4. Loosen clamps that secure the air intake
tube to the turbocharger and air filter.
Remove the intake tube.
It is good practice to steam clean the engine to

remove road grime, grease and oil before starting
work. Steam cleaning the engine and engine area
allows more detailed inspection and improved
workmanship.
Care must be used to keep moisture from
entering the air intake system. If moisture does
enter the system, make sure it is removed (dried
out) before the engine is reinstalled.
1. Position vehicle on a flat and level surface in
an area with ample work space in and
around the vehicle. Ensure that a suitable
lifting device is available.
2. Apply the parking brake and block the
vehicle wheels to prevent vehicle from
moving. Observe all safety precautions.
5. If vehicle is equipped with air conditioning:

a.
Recover the refrigerant using A/C

refrigerant recovery and recycling
equipment.
b.
Disconnect the A/C compressor

discharge hose at the connection near
the radiator support.
c.
Disconnect the A/C line at the receiver/

dryer.
d.
Locate and disengage the electrical

connector from the binary pressure
switch on the receiver/dryer.
e.
Locate and disengage the electrical

connector from the low-pressure cutout
switch in the A/C refrigerant line.
3. Disconnect the battery negative (ground)

cable.
6. Disconnect the upper radiator hose from the

engine coolant outlet fitting.
4. Drain the air tanks.
7. Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the

coolant inlet of the oil cooler assembly.
8. Remove the clamps that retain the coolant
overflow tank and then remove the tank.
Page 96
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
9. Disconnect the chassis-mounted charge air
cooler inlet hose at the cooler.
10. Disconnect the chassis-mounted charge air
cooler outlet hose at the cooler.
11. Locate the engine coolant temperature
sensor and disengage the electrical
connector, if applicable. Remove the sensor
harness from the radiator support.
Do not store the assembly horizontally with the

fan face up (hub flange down). Fluid in the
viscous drive reservoir can leak out.
76
12. Remove fastener from the bracket that

secures the radiator fan clutch air solenoid
valve to the radiator support, if so equipped.
Set the solenoid valve aside.
13. Remove the fan assembly as follows:
a.
Loosen the eight fan assembly

mounting nuts (2) and capscrews (1).
Refer to Figure 75.
b.
While supporting the fan assembly (3),

remove the nuts (2) from the capscrews
(1) and remove the fan assembly.
c.
If the fan assembly is equipped with a

viscous drive, be sure to store the
assembly either horizontally, with the
fan face down (hub flange up), or
vertically, as shown in Figure 76. This
will prevent fluid leaking from the
assembly.
75
Figure 76 Viscous Fan Drive Assembly Storage
14. Obtain a lifting device (chain fall or engine

hoist) and support the radiator.
15. Remove the retaining bolts from the radiator
support mounts.
16. Remove the radiator from the vehicle, using
the lifting device and an assistant, if
required.
Figure 75 Fan Assembly Removal
1. Capscrew
2. Nut
3. Fan Assembly
17. Disconnect the heater hoses and A/C

refrigerant lines, if applicable, from
connections at the lower dash panel behind
the engine.
18. Disconnect the tube connecting the
turbocharger to the air cleaner assembly.
Page 97
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
19. Remove all coolant tubes, ground straps, air
lines, fuel lines, hydraulic hoses or tubes,
throttle linkage and electrical wiring
harnesses that are attached to the engine
and would prevent its removal.
20. Remove the air cleaner assembly, if
required.
21. Remove the exhaust bracket from the
clutch, torque converter or flywheel housing
and remove exhaust clamp at the
turbocharger.
22. Remove power steering hoses and the
reservoir, if applicable.
23. Disconnect any electrical cables or wires still
connected to the starter. Remove three
mounting capscrews from the mounting
flange and remove the starter.
24. Support the transmission with an
appropriate transmission jack.
25. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the
transmission bell housing to the flywheel
housing.
26. Remove the hood rest crossmember(s), if
applicable.
Page 98
27. Obtain the appropriate lifting equipment (bar

or chain) and attach to the proper lift points
on the engine.
28. Position and attach the engine hoist to the
lift bar or chain and, using the hoist, place
tension on the bar or chain.
29. If the vehicle is equipped with a manual
transmission, remove the clutch linkage and
bracket retaining bolts.
30. If the vehicle is equipped with an automatic
transmission, remove the torque converter
access panel and remove the capscrews
that secure the torque converter to the
flywheel.
31. Remove the retaining bolts that secure the
engine mounts to the engine.
32. With the help of an assistant, remove the
engine from the vehicle. Watch for
obstructions that may interfere with its
removal such as engine or chassis
components, brackets, clamps or other parts
still attached to the engine.
33. Refer to Engine Disassembly procedures for
mounting the engine on an engine stand.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY
Filter Element Removal
[219 EV]
This section includes step-by-step procedures for

the complete disassembly of the MACK E-Tech
engine upon removal from the vehicle. Major
components are removed as assemblies and
overhauled in the respective bench procedures
sections.
The fuel and oil filter elements, as well as the

Centri-Max or Centri-Max PLUS assembly,
must be removed before mounting the adapter
plate to the engine. If not already removed,
remove the filters following the procedure below.
Refer to Figure 77.
1. Place a suitable container below the filter
element area to catch any spilled fluids.
Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed

in this section may result in damage to the
components or personal injury.
2. Using a suitable filter wrench, remove the

fuel and oil filter elements. Do not reuse filter
elements. Discard used elements in a
responsible, environmentally safe manner.
3. If equipped with the current top-mounted
Centri-Max PLUS oil filter (Figure 77):
a.
Loosen and remove the retaining bolt

(1) at the top of the filter cover (2).
b.
Remove the cover, element and rotor

(3). Discard the seal (4).
77
Figure 77 Centri-Max PLUS Housing

1. Filter Mounting Bolt
2. Centri-Max PLUS Filter Cover
3. Element and Rotor
4. Seal
5. Spin-On Full-Flow Oil Filters
6. Fuel Filter
Page 99
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. If equipped with the earlier Centri-Max
design oil filter (Figure 78):
a.
Loosen drain hose assembly (4) from

the Centri-Max filter housing
assembly by loosening hose clamp (3)
at the Centri-Max housing.
b.
Remove two nuts (6) and two washers

(5) from studs (1) securing hose
adapter (7) at the cylinder block.
Discard O-ring (8).
c.
Remove drain hose assembly (4).
d.
Using tool J 24783, remove the

centrifugal oil filter housing (9).
78
Apply the filter wrench to area labeled WRENCH

HERE on the Centri-Max filter housing.
Application outside of the labeled area will result
in damage to the Centri-Max housing.
e.
Remove and discard the filter seal (2)

and the centrifugal cartridge (10).
Clean the filter housing.
Figure 78 Centri-Max Housing
1. Studs
2. Seal Ring
3. Clamp
4. Drain Hose Assembly
5. Washers
Page 100
6. Nuts
7. Adapter
8. O-Ring
9. Centri-Max Housing
10. Centri-Max Element
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting
Bracket Assembly Removal
1. Disconnect the harness from the oil

pressure and oil temperature sensors
(6 and 5) on the filter mounting bracket (9).
[215 DW, 219 EP]
2. Disconnect the turbocharger lubrication

supply line (2) from the mounting bracket.
If the engine is equipped with the plate-type oil

cooler, the cooler and oil filter mounting bracket
must be removed before mounting the engine in
the stand. The configuration of the housing
assembly protrudes into the area required for the
engine mounting adapter plate. The removable
bundle-type oil cooler and oil filter mounting
bracket does not protrude into the mounting area
and can remain on until after the engine is
mounted in the stand if desired.
3. Loosen the hose clamps at the cooler-towater pipe connection, and slide the hose
away from the cooler and further onto the
tube.
PLATE-TYPE OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER

MOUNTING BRACKET WITH INVERTED
TOP-MOUNTED CENTRI-MAX PLUS
(Current Production)
4. While supporting the oil cooler and oil filter

mounting bracket assembly with one hand,
remove the four capscrews (7) attaching the
oil cooler and oil filter mounting bracket to
the cylinder block (8).
5. Lift the oil cooler and oil filter mounting
bracket assembly off the block surface and
place on a clean work surface.
79
Refer to Figure 79 and remove the assembly as

follows:
Figure 79 Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Removal
1. Oil Supply Port (for Mechanical Dashboard Gauge)
2. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Line
3. Oil Cooler
4. Oil Supply Port (for REPTO), Turbo Unloader and RemoteMounted Oil Filter

7. Mounting Bracket Capscrews (Four)
8. Cylinder Block
9. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket
Page 101
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REMOVABLE BUNDLE-TYPE OIL COOLER
AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH
EXTERNALLY DRAINED CENTRI-MAX
(Early Production)
Refer to Figure 80.
1. Disconnect the turbocharger lubrication
supply line (6) from the oil filter/cooler
assembly (5) and turbocharger, and remove
hose.
2. Disconnect feed line (2) from the centrifugal
filter housing fitting. Tag and cap line and
fitting.
Unless it is necessary to repair any portion of the

oil cooler or oil filter mounting bracket, remove
the units as an assembly. The assembly can be
disassembled later, if necessary. Refer to Oil
Cooler Disassembly under Lubrication System
Components Bench Procedures in the REPAIR
INSTRUCTIONS section.
Later-production filter adapters are redesigned to
use a poppet-type pressure relief valve in place of
the plunger-type valve.
3. Remove four capscrews (3) securing oil filter

feed assembly (4) to engine block.
The S300 and S400 model turbochargers use a
stainless steel braided line connected directly to
the threaded oil inlet port at the turbocharger.
80
Figure 80 Removable Bundle Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Removal
1. Vent Fitting
2. Feed Line
3. Capscrew
Page 102
4. Oil Filter Feed Assembly

5. Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly
6. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Line
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Mounting Engine in Stand
The engine weighs approximately 2,300 lbs.

(1043 kg) wet. Stay out from under the engine
when it is being lifted. Failure of the lifting
device could result in serious injury or death.
Make sure to use lifting equipment that is
rated at a capacity greater than the weight of
the engine.
Engine stand, Kent-Moore tool number J 29109,

and adapter plate J 38048, are recommended to
safely support the engine during disassembly and
assembly procedures.
Avoid using an engine stand that supports the
engine on the oil pan rail while the oil pan is still
installed. Damage to the oil pan, pan gasket or
the isolators may result. If this type of stand must
be used and the oil pan is to remain installed,
support the engine on the pads provided at each
corner of the cylinder block as shown in
Figure 81.
81
Figure 81 Engine Support Pads
Page 103
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
r
Engine Stand J 29109
Adapter Plate J 38048
1. Using three mounting capscrews (2), secure

adapter plate J 38048 (1) to the left side of
the engine.
2. Secure adapter plate (1) to engine stand
J 29109 (3) with six mounting capscrews (4).
PROCEDURE
Refer to Figure 82.
3. Remove lifting device from the engine.

82
Figure 82 Engine Mounting in Stand

1. Adapter Plate J 38048
2. Capscrews
Page 104
3. Engine Stand J 29109

4. Capscrew
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Alternator Removal
[271 CB]
Engine Electronic Control Unit

(EECU) Removal
[230 EA]
Refer to Figure 83.

1. Loosen adjusting capscrew (1) and
mounting capscrews (2).
Left-Side Mounted Assembly
2. Remove the poly-v drive belt.

3. Disconnect and tag electrical wires.
4. Remove mounting nuts, washers and
capscrews (2), and remove alternator (3).
The following procedure applies for an EECU

mounted on the left side of the engine. The
procedure for a right-side mounted unit with
cooling plate is covered later in this section.
5. Remove mounting hardware and remove

alternator plate.
1. Thoroughly clean the area around the ECU

harness connector to make sure the
terminals remain clean for reassembly.
83
2. Disconnect the wiring harness to the EECU

(Figure 84).
84
Figure 83 Alternator Removal

1. Adjusting Capscrew
2. Mounting Capscrews
3. Alternator
Figure 84 EECU Connector Removal

1. Upper Connector
2. EECU
3. Lower Connector
Page 105
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Remove the two top retaining nuts and
isolating washers that secure the EECU to
the EECU mounting bracket (Figure 85).
Then, remove the two bottom retaining nuts
and isolating washers that secure the EECU
to the of the air inlet manifold.
4. Carefully remove the EECU from the inlet
manifold. The bracket can remain attached
to the inlet manifold providing the manifold is
not being replaced.
85
Figure 85 EECU Removal (Left-Side Mounted Unit)

2. Coolant Manifold
3. Lower Mounting Bolts
(Two)
Page 106
4. EECU
5. Upper Mounting Bolts
(Two)
6. Mounting Stud
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly
Removal
2. Disconnect fuel lines from fittings (2, 3 and

5) on the adapter. Tag and cap all lines.
[231 PB]
3. Remove three capscrews (4) from the top of

the fuel filter adapter assembly.
Refer to Figure 86 and Figure 87.
4. Remove fuel filter adapter assembly from

the air inlet manifold (7).
1. Disconnect wiring harness connector at the

fuel temperature sensor on top of the fuel
filter adapter assembly, if so equipped (1).
5. Remove fuel supply hose stand-off bracket

from head bolt/water pump support bracket
and remove supply hose.
86
Figure 86 Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Removal (Current Production)

1. Secondary Filter Fitting (Out)
2. Secondary Filter Fitting (In)
3. Primary Filter Fitting (Out)
4. Coolant Manifold

6. Mounting Bracket
7. Primary Filter Fitting (In)
8. Fuel Filter Adapter
Page 107
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Disconnect wiring harness leads at the
coolant temperature sensor on the coolant
manifold and the boost air temperature
sensor on the air inlet manifold. Position
leads out of way.
87
2. Disconnect fittings (3) from both ends of the

coolant conditioner supply tube. Remove
tube (2).
Remove only the supply tube. Do not remove the

brass elbow fittings at the manifold and the
cylinder block.
88
Figure 87 Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly (Early

Production)
Assembly
2. Secondary Filter Fitting
(Out)
(In)
4. Capscrews
5. Primary Filter Fitting
(Out)
8. Mounting Flange
Coolant Conditioner Element

Removal
[215 LD]
Figure 88 Coolant Conditioner Supply Tube Removal
The following procedure applies for engines

equipped with a coolant conditioner. The coolant
conditioner is available as an option on currentproduction engines.
Page 108
1. Plastic Tie Wrap

2. Coolant Conditioner
Supply Tube
3. Fittings
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Place a suitable container below the coolant
filter area to catch any spilled coolant.
4. Using a suitable filter wrench (J 29927, or
equivalent), remove the coolant conditioner
filter element (14). Discard element.
5. Remove coolant conditioner head assembly
(2) from thermostat housing (5) by removing
mounting capscrews (1).
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

Removal
cooler, remove the oil cooler-to-water pump inlet
line (Figure 89) as follows:
1. Remove the two clamps and flexible
coupling between the inlet line and the
coolant manifold.
6. Remove and discard O-ring (4).

7. Carefully remove and examine the check
valve assembly (3). Examine check valve
assembly by depressing the check ball. If it
resists movement and does not return to its
seat freely, the check valve assembly must
be replaced.
2. Support the line and remove the two

capscrews securing the inlet line to the
water pump and remove the line.
89

Removal
1. Water Pump
2. Coupling
3. Inlet Pipe
Page 109
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Thermostat Removal
2. Loosen two hose clamps (10) on the

coupling (12) that connect the oil cooler
supply tube (11) to the thermostat housing.
[215 NU]
3. Taking care to prevent the thermostat (7)

from falling, remove the thermostat housing
(5) and thermostat. Discard gasket (8).
Refer to Figure 90.

1. With the coolant conditioner element (if
equipped) removed, remove two capscrews
(13) that secure the thermostat housing (5)
to coolant manifold (9).
90
Figure 90 Coolant Conditioner and Thermostat Removal

1. Capscrew
2. Coolant Conditioner Head Assembly (If Equipped)
3. Check Valve Assembly (Only with Coolant Conditioner)
4. O-Ring (Only with Coolant Conditioner)
5. Thermostat Housing
6. Thermostat Seal
7. Thermostat
Page 110
8. Gasket
9. Coolant Manifold
10. Clamps
11. Oil Cooler Supply (Bypass) Tube
12. Coupling Hose
13. Capscrew
14. Coolant Conditioner Filter Element (If Equipped)
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Coolant Manifold Removal
[215 NK]
Refer to Figure 91.
1. Disconnect wires to dash gauge and
V-MAC III coolant temperature sensors, and
boost air temperature sensor. Position wires
out of way.
The hex-head capscrews and washers used to

attach the manifold on early-production engines
are replaced by flangehead capscrews in later
production.
4. Remove manifold assembly. It may be
necessary to pry or tap lightly with a soft
mallet on the housing sections to break the
seal.
2. Disconnect and remove line between

coolant manifold and water pump.
5. If necessary, separate the two coolant

manifold sections (1 and 4) by loosening two
clamps (3) and removing the coupling (2).
3. Support the coolant manifold sections and

remove 12 capscrews (5) retaining the
manifold sections (1 and 4) to the cylinder
heads.
6. If the coolant manifold is to be replaced,

remove sensor located on the manifold (4).
91
Figure 91 Air Inlet/Coolant Manifold Removal (Shown with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold, Typical)
1. Coolant Manifold, Front Section
2. Coupling Hose
3. Clamp
4. Coolant Manifold, Rear Section
5. Capscrew
6. Air Inlet Manifold, Rear Section

7. Sensor
8. Air Inlet Manifold, Front Section
9. Capscrew, 12-Point
Page 111
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Inlet Manifold Removal
Water Pump Removal
[214 HD]
[215 SW]
The following procedure applies for both the

early-production engines (right-side mounted
EECU) equipped with a two-piece air inlet
manifold and current-production engines (leftside mounted EECU) equipped with a one-piece
manifold.
Refer to Figure 93.

1. Disconnect coolant return hose to air
compressor (1) at fitting on water pump.
2. Remove three mounting capscrews (3) and
remove water pump (2).
93

1. Support the air inlet manifold and remove
12 capscrews (9) that secure the manifold
(6 and 8) to the cylinder heads.
2. Remove air inlet manifold. It may be
necessary to gently pry or tap the manifold
lightly with a soft mallet to break the seal.
3. If the air inlet manifold is to be replaced,
remove sensor (7) located on the inlet
manifold (6), if installed.
92
Figure 93 Water Pump Removal

1. Air Compressor Coolant
Return Line
Figure 92 One-Piece Air Inlet Manifold
Page 112
2. Water Pump
3. Capscrew
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Turbocharger Removal
[214 SD]
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly

Removal
[222 KD]
Refer to Figure 94.

1. Remove two capscrews (3) securing
turbocharger lubrication drain tube (4) to
turbocharger (1).
Refer to Figure 95.

1. Remove the four retaining nuts securing the
three-section heat shield to the cylinder
block and remove shield.
2. Remove drain tube (4) from cylinder block.
2. Loosen the tube sleeve nut (1) at the unit

pump for the No. 1 cylinder. Be careful to
avoid twisting the line while loosening the
nut.
3. Loosen four turbocharger mounting nuts (5)

and remove turbocharger (1).
94
3. Loosen tube sleeve nut (2) and tube

clamping screw at the cylinder head and
remove the tube assembly. Cap the line and
fittings to prevent contaminants from
entering the system.
95
Figure 95 Fuel Inlet Tube Assembly Removal

1. EUP Sleeve Nut
Figure 94 Turbocharger Removal

1. Turbocharger
2. Lubrication Supply Line
3. Capscrew
2. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamping

Screw and Sleeve Nut
4. Repeat this procedure for the five remaining

cylinders.
4. Lubrication Drain Tube

5. Mounting Nut
Page 113
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Exhaust Manifold Removal
2. Remove the exhaust manifold.

3. Discard gaskets.
[214 EG]
96
1. Support the exhaust manifold and remove

12 mounting nuts (Figure 96) securing the
manifold to cylinder heads.
Figure 96 Exhaust Manifold Removal
Page 114
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Wiring Harness Removal
1. Disconnect the harness at each of the EUP
terminals.
2. Disconnect the harness at the EECU.
3. Disconnect the harness at the engine speed
and position sensors and any remaining
sensor locations not previously
disconnected.
Engine Electronic Control Unit

(EECU) and Cooling Plate Removal
[230 EA]
Right-Side Mounted Assembly
Refer to Figure 97.
1. Thoroughly clean the area around the EECU
harness connector to make sure the
terminals remain clean for reassembly.
4. Remove the harness attaching hardware

and remove harness from the engine.
2. Disconnect the wiring harness and coolant

inlet and outlet lines to the EECU cooling
plate if not already done.
3. Remove the five retaining nuts and isolating
washers that secure the EECU and cooling
plate to the cylinder block.
4. Carefully remove the EECU and cooling
plate from the block.
97
Figure 97 EECU and Cooling Plate Removal

1. Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU)
2. EECU Cooling Plate
3. Coolant Fitting
4. Cylinder Block
5. Mounting Stud
6. Isolating Washers
Page 115
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Removal
5. Remove outboard EUP screw completely

and remove EUP from the cylinder block.
Refer to Figure 98. Place the EUP in a clean
area and cover it to prevent entry of dirt and
other contaminants.
[221 GP]
98
EUPs must be paint marked with the cylinder

number, and reinstalled at their original locations.
This will eliminate any need to reprogram EUP
information. If a new EUP is installed,
reprogramming must be performed.
1. Place a drain pan beneath the right side of
the engine. Remove the fuel-outlet fitting
from the cylinder block fuel-return gallery
above the air compressor. This allows fuel to
drain from the internal passages.
Figure 98 EUP Removal
The EUP spring may be preloaded with

significant spring tension, depending upon
cam lobe position. To avoid injury from the
EUP springing outward, steps 2 through 4
must be followed.
6. Remove roller tappet from the EUP bore by

hand (Figure 99). Do not use a tool, as it
could damage the bore. Place the roller
tappet in a clean area and cover it to prevent
the entry of dirt and other contaminants.
99
2. Remove the inboard EUP screw completely.

3. Loosen outboard EUP screw and back it out
1/2 inch.
4. Insert screwdrivers under the bolt bosses
(front and rear) and pry until the EUP comes
out against the screw head. (The EUP may
spring out against the screw head.)
The rapid upward movement of the EUP may

result in the tappet spring retainer becoming
dislodged from the plunger foot. If this occurs,
simply reinstall the retainer. This situation does
not indicate any problem with the parts and
should not occur if the above procedures are
followed.
Figure 99 Tappet Removal
Oil Fill Tube Removal

Remove capscrews securing oil filler feed tube to
cylinder block. Remove tube.
Page 116
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Compressor Removal
[261 CK]
Refer to Figure 100.
Disconnect two coolant lines (1 and 3) from the
air compressor head (2) at the fittings. Tag and
cap lines.
The air compressor is heavy. Lifting the air

compressor may require the help of an
assistant or suitable lifting device. Attempting
to lift the compressor without such
assistance may result in severe personal
injury.
100

1. Remove three mounting capscrews (5)
securing air compressor (1) to auxiliary shaft
housing.
2. Taking care not to damage or lose the
lubrication oil supply tube (2), remove the air
compressor by pulling it rearward out of the
mounting flange. Discard gasket.
If the oil supply tube is lost and not reinstalled, the

air compressor will fail from lack of lubrication.
Figure 100 Air Compressor Connections

1. Coolant Supply Line
2. Air Compressor Head
3. Coolant Return Line
4. Capscrew
5. Drain Fitting
6. Air Governor Mounting
Flange
Page 117
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
101
Figure 101 Air Compressor Removal

1. Air Compressor
2. Oil Supply Tube
3. Auxiliary Shaft
Valve Cover and Spacer Removal

[213 JB]
4. Oil Drain Openings

5. Capscrew
Refer to Figure 102 for disassembled view.

1. Remove valve covers (1) by removing six
retaining capscrews (2) from each cover.
2. Discard seals.
If engine is equipped with an engine brake, a

spacer is installed under the valve cover. Longer
capscrews are used to secure the valve cover
and spacer to the cylinder head.
Page 118
3. If an engine brake is installed, perform the

following:
a.
Remove control wire (3) from left side

of each riser housing (4).
b.
Disconnect wires at the actuator

solenoid connector.
c.
Remove spacers. Discard seals.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
102
The valve roller follower has an insert in the top

end to provide a hardened wear surface for
contact with the push rod (Figure 103). The insert
is staked in place during manufacture of the lifter
(later production is press fit). However, with very
early version roller lifters, insert movement can
take place during engine operation, resulting in
the insert no longer being retained by the staking.
Figure 102 Control Wire Removal

1. Valve Cover
2. Capscrew
3. Control Wire
4. Spacer Housing
Rocker Arm, Valve Yoke and Push

Rod Removal
As each push rod is removed, immediately

inspect the lower end to see if a lifter insert is
stuck to the push rod ball end. If an insert is
present, carefully place the push rod back into its
installed position, and by feel, attempt to engage
the insert into its bore in the lifter top. Once fully
engaged, remove push rod with a twisting/sideload motion, so the insert will remain in place in
the lifter bore.
103
[213 LP, NV & LH]

1. If equipped with an engine brake, remove
the six capscrews (3) and washers retaining
the brake actuator assembly (13) and rocker
arm assembly (10) to each cylinder head.
2. Remove the brake actuator and rocker arm
assemblies from each cylinder head (one
actuator and rocker arm assembly per
head).
If an engine brake was not installed, there will be

six shorter capscrews retaining the rocker arm
assembly to the cylinder head.
3. Remove valve yokes from each pair of
valves by lifting straight up on each yoke.
Tag yokes for reassembly.
4. Remove valve push rods and tag rods for
reassembly.
Figure 103 Valve Lifter Insert
Page 119
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
104
Figure 104 Rocker Arm Shaft and Engine Brake Assembly

1. Valve Cover
2. Spacer
3. Capscrew
4. Spherical Jam Nut
5. Exhaust Adjusting Screw
6. Standard Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut (Inlet Valves)
7. Cylinder Head
Page 120
8. Exhaust Valve Yokes

9. Actuator Pin Assembly
10. Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly
11. Engine Brake Oil Supply Screw
12. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
13. Engine Brake Assembly
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Nozzle Holder Removal
105
[222 KG]
r
Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093
After removing the nozzles, it is a good practice

to label or tag them for reinstallation into the
same cylinders. After removal, place nozzles on a
clean surface.
1. Remove nozzle holder retainer (2).
2. Assemble injection nozzle puller J 37093 as
follows:
a.
Attach nut (12), bearing (11), spacer

(10) and rubber washer (9) to tool
handle (1).
b.
Screw handle (1) in threaded hole of

nozzle holder (5) until rubber washer
(9) is slightly compressed.
3. With tool in position, turn nut (12) clockwise

to draw nozzle holder from cylinder head
nozzle mounting hole (8).
4. Continue turning nut until nozzle holder is
free of insert. Remove nozzle holder and
puller tool as an assembly.
Figure 105 Nozzle Holder Removal

1. Handle
2. Nozzle Holder Retainer
3. O-Rings
4. Alignment Pin
5. Nozzle Holder
6. Nozzle
7. Gasket
8. Nozzle Mounting Hole
9. Rubber Washer
10. Spacer
11. Bearing
12. Nut
5. Remove nozzle holder gasket (7). The

gasket is manufactured from a special iron
material 0.060-inch (1.524 mm) thick.
6. Remove remaining nozzle holders in the
same manner.
Page 121
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Head Assembly Removal
[213 EV]
1. Remove fuel return tube (2) from between
the cylinder head assemblies (4) by
loosening the tube sleeve nuts from each
end.
2. Remove fuel return line (3) at the rear of the
rearward cylinder head, if not already
removed.
3. Remove cylinder head bolts (1 and 5). Refer
to cylinder head bolt torque sequence chart
under Cylinder Head Installation in Engine
Reassembly, for location of bolts, if
necessary.
Cylinder head assemblies are heavy. Lifting a

cylinder head requires the help of an
assistant or suitable lifting device. Attempting
to lift a cylinder head without assistance may
result in severe personal injury.
4. Using a suitable lifting device, remove heads
from the cylinder block.
5. Remove gaskets and six fire rings. Discard
gaskets and fire rings.
106
Figure 106 Cylinder Heads

1. Bolt
2. Fuel Return Tube
3. Fuel Return Line
Page 122
4. Cylinder Head
5. Bolt (with Bracket Mounting Capscrew Hole in Head)
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Vibration Damper and Crankshaft
Hub Removal
108
[212 RB, RH]

1. Remove six mounting capscrews (3). Refer
to Figure 107.
107
Figure 108 Crankshaft Hub Removal

1. Crankshaft Hub
2. Puller
Oil Pan Removal

[211 NB]
Make sure all loose components are secured

to, or removed from, the engine before
rotating engine on the stand. Failure to do so
may result in damage to components or
severe personal injury.
Figure 107 Vibration Damper Removal
1. Vibration Damper
2. Pulley
4. Hub Capscrew
2. Remove vibration damper (1) and fan belt

drive pulley (2) together.
3. Using a suitable wrench, remove crankshaft
hub capscrew (4).
4. Using a suitable puller such as J 24420-C,
remove the crankshaft hub. Refer to
Figure 108.
1. Remove the nuts from the two studs (early

production) or shouldered bolts (current
production) securing the oil pan to the front
cover.
2. Remove the nuts from the two studs (early
production) or shouldered bolts (current
production) securing the oil pan to the
flywheel housing.
3. Remove the remaining integral hex-head
shoulder studs and shouldered bolts
securing the oil pan to the pan rails and
remove the oil pan.
Page 123
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
109
Oil pans with isolating gaskets are secured with a

combination of shouldered bolts and shouldered
studs with separate nuts (two piece) or integral
hex-head shoulder studs (one piece) along the
pan rails. Some early engine versions used an
additional washer between the nut and the
isolator.
Figure 109 Isolating Oil Pan Hex-Head Shoulder Bolt (A) and Shoulder Stud (B) Locations
Page 124
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Pump Removal
Remove the oil pump as a unit by removing three

retaining capscrews (1).
[219 MU]
If the oil pump must be disassembled for any

reason, it will be easier to loosen the housing
cover retaining capscrews, the screen, the oil
inlet tube capscrews, the cover plate capscrews,
and the relief valve cap while the pump is still
secured in position. Do so before loosening the
three retaining capscrews.
The E-Tech screen for the oil inlet tube is held
in place by a steel retainer ring.
110
Figure 110 Lubrication Oil Pump

1. Pump Mounting Capscrews
2. Capscrews
3. Capscrews, 12-Point
4. Oil Inlet (Pickup) Tube
5. Screen
6. Relief Valve Cap
7. Capscrews
8. Plate
Page 125
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Front Cover Removal
111
[211 RP]
For early-production engines equipped with

studs, it is not recommended to remove the front
cover without first removing the oil pan. Doing so
may result in damage to the isolating oil pan
gasket. Current-production engines use shoulder
bolts in the front cover positions making removal
of the oil pan not necessary.
1. Remove front engine mount pedestal (2) by
removing six retaining capscrews (3 and 4).
2. Remove remaining mounting capscrews
from front cover (1).
3. Remove front cover. It will be necessary to
pry the cover from the engine block. Be
careful not to damage cover or block while
using sharp tools around machined
surfaces.
Figure 111 Front Cover Removal
1. Front Cover
2. Pedestal
3. Capscrew (Short)
4. Capscrew (Long)
Page 126
5. Nut
6. Washer
7. Cover
8. Gasket
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Auxiliary Shaft Removal
[212 CV]
3. Remove two retaining capscrews from

auxiliary shaft captured thrust washer.
Remove washer.

112
Be very careful to avoid damaging the auxiliary

shaft bushings or journals while removing the
shaft.
4. Remove the auxiliary shaft (3) by pulling it
rearward out of the air compressor mounting
flange opening. With engine oil pump in
position, a rotating motion may be
necessary to clear the engine oil pump drive
gear (5).
114
Figure 112 Auxiliary Shaft Gear

1. Nut
3. Capscrew
4. Captured Thrust Washer

5. Shaft Splines
1. Remove auxiliary shaft gear retaining nut

(1).
2. Using a suitable puller such as J 4558-01,
remove auxiliary shaft gear (2) from the
splines (5) on the end of shaft (Figure 113).
113
Figure 114 Auxiliary Shaft Removal

1. Rear Bushing
2. Front Journal
3. Auxiliary Shaft
4. Rear Journal
5. Oil Pump Drive Gear
Figure 113 Auxiliary Shaft Gear Removal

2. Puller
Page 127
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Camshaft Removal
115
[213 CH]
Make sure all loose components are secured

to, or removed from, the engine before
rotating engine on the stand. Failure to do so
may result in damage to components or
severe personal injury.
1. Rotate engine so that the oil pan rail is
upward (engine inverted).
When engine is rotated, the roller valve lifters will

fall downward into the push rod holes and rest
against the H-rings. They will be out of the way
for camshaft removal.
2. Remove the two 12-point capscrews (3) that
retain camshaft thrust washer (1). Camshaft
may have to be rotated slightly to make the
capscrews accessible through openings (2)
in the camshaft drive gear (4). Refer to
Figure 115.
Figure 115 Camshaft Thrust Washer Capscrews

1. Thrust Washer
2. Openings
4. Camshaft Drive Gear
3. Install the camshaft removal/installation tool

J 41682 (Figure 116) in position on the rear
segment of the camshaft, securing it with the
clip to the shaft.
116
Figure 116 Camshaft Installation Guide
Page 128
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Taking care not to damage camshaft or
bushings, pull camshaft out of the front of
the engine (Figure 117). Carefully guide rear
of shaft through the journals. If shaft does
not come out freely, ensure all valve lifters
are clear of camshaft cams and journals.
Piston and Connecting Rod

Assembly Removal
[212 NP, LQ]
117
The crankshaft and related components are

heavy, have sharp edges and many possible
pinch points. Always be careful while working
in this area to avoid serious personal injury.
Before removing pistons, connecting rods and

rod caps, ensure they are marked so they can be
reinstalled in the same cylinders from which they
were removed.
Figure 117 Camshaft Removal
Remove connecting rod and piston assemblies in

companion cylinder sets: 1 and 6, 2 and 5, and 3
and 4.
5. Remove valve lifters.

1. Rotate engine stand 90 degrees so that
pistons lie horizontally in the block with top
of pistons and connecting rods accessible.
Valve lifters have established wear patterns and
should be reinstalled in same locations. Label
each valve lifter upon removal and place on a
clean work surface.
2. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6

are lowered in the cylinder at least 2 inches
(51 mm) to allow adequate room to remove
carbon from upper edge of sleeves.
3. Using a sharp knife, carefully remove any
carbon at the top of the sleeves. Remove
any remaining carbon using crocus cloth or
fine sandpaper. Then wipe inside of sleeves
with a clean cloth.
Use care not to damage the cylinder sleeve when

removing carbon buildup.
Page 129
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
118
Figure 118 Carbon Removal from Cylinder Sleeves

4. Rotate crankshaft so that pistons 1 and 6
are at bottom dead center. Remove
connecting rod capscrews and rod bearing
caps.
119
Figure 119 Piston and Connecting Rod Assembly

Removal
5. Using a hammer handle, push piston 1 from

the cylinder bore. Remove piston 6 in the
same manner.
6. After removing pistons 1 and 6, rotate
crankshaft so that next set of pistons (2 and
5) is at bottom dead center.
7. Repeat steps 2 through 6 for removing
piston sets 2 and 5, and 3 and 4.
Page 130
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Removal
120
[212 UC]
1. With engine stand rotated so that engine is
inverted (crankshaft horizontal), loosen all
six flywheel retaining capscrews.
On vehicles equipped with an automatic

transmission, it may be necessary to remove
additional components to gain access to the
flywheel retaining capscrews. Refer to Automatic
Transmission Drive Arrangement Assembly
Instructions manual 5-902 for instructions
regarding these arrangements.
2. Remove two of the flywheel retaining
capscrews that are opposite each other.
Install two longer capscrews or studs to
allow flywheel to be safely removed from the
crankshaft.
3. Remove remaining capscrews.
4. Carefully tap flywheel by alternating from
side to side to work it off the aligning dowel
pins.
The flywheel is heavy. Lifting the flywheel will

require the help of an assistant or the use of a
suitable lifting device (J 25026-A or
equivalent). Attempting to lift a flywheel
without such assistance may result in severe
personal injury.
Figure 120 Flywheel Removal
5. Support the flywheel and remove two guide

capscrews.
6. Using a suitable lifting device such as
J 25026-A, or adequate assistance, remove
flywheel.
Remove flywheel timing pointer, if present, to

avoid damaging the pointer during flywheel
removal.
Page 131
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Housing Removal
[211 HD]
1. Remove eight mounting capscrews (3) from
flywheel housing (2).
2. Remove flywheel housing. It may be
necessary to tap lightly on the housing with
a soft mallet to separate housing from
engine block.
121
Figure 121 Flywheel Housing Removal

1. Capscrew Locations
2. Flywheel Housing
Page 132
3. Capscrew
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Main Bearing Cap Removal

1. Remove eight buttress capscrews (2 and 3).
[211 JA]
Before removing main bearing caps, ensure they

are marked so they can be reinstalled on the
same journals. Keep the bearings with the same
cap and tag, or mark them to identify the cam
side of the bearings.
2. Remove main bearing capscrews (1) from

each of the seven bearing caps (4 and 5).
The center main bearing cap (5) houses the
thrust washers.
3. Position a lady-foot pry bar under the tabs
provided on bearing caps and pry bearing
caps upward. To work them loose, it may be
necessary to tap the bearing caps
alternately from side to side with a soft
mallet.
122
Figure 122 Buttress Capscrew Installation

1. Main Bearing Cap Capscrews
2. Buttress Capscrews, 80 mm
3. Buttress Capscrews, 110 mm
4. Main Bearing Caps

5. Center Main Bearing Cap
Page 133
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Removal
[212 HP]
CYLINDER BLOCK
RECONDITIONING
[211 DB]

1. Using a suitable lifting device, secure a sling
or crankshaft support tool around the
crankshaft and lifting device hook. Ensure
crankshaft is evenly balanced when lifted
from the engine block.
2. Lift crankshaft from engine block and store
in a secured stand, or horizontally on
V-blocks.
123
Special Tools Required

r
Camshaft Bushing Installation/Removal Kit

J 42377
Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer

J 21428-01
Counterbore Tool PT2210
Counterbore Cutter Plate PT2210-3A
Hex Key Wrench PT2210-14
Universal Dial Depth Gauge PT5025
3-Inch Stylus Extension PT5025-11
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle

Removal
[219 RV]
To avoid damaging the spray nozzles, remove

them before removing the sleeves.
It is best to use a 10-mm, 6-point socket on a

12-inch extension to remove the nozzle retaining
capscrews.
1. Remove the piston cooling spray nozzle (2)
by removing the retaining capscrew (3).
Figure 123 Crankshaft Removal
3. Remove the main journal bearing inserts

from the cylinder block and tag for
inspection.
Page 134
2. Carefully pull outward on the spray nozzle to

remove it from the block.
3. Remove and discard the elastomer seal (1).
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 to remove the
remaining spray nozzles.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
124
1. Rotate the engine in the stand so that it is

upright (deck surface upward).
2. Use puller PT6435, or equivalent, to remove
the cylinder sleeve (1) from the cylinder
block (4).
3. Position the puller above the sleeve and
guide the puller shaft through the sleeve.
Figure 124 Spray Nozzle Removal

1. Elastomer Seal
2. Spray Nozzle
3. Capscrew
Cylinder Sleeve Removal

[212 NC]
r
Extreme care must be taken to make sure the

puller shoe is properly aligned in the bottom of
the sleeve to prevent damage to the block.
4. Position the puller shoe so that it catches the
lower lip of the sleeve. Ensure that it does
not extend beyond the outside edges of the
sleeve so it will not come into contact with
the cylinder block as the sleeve is removed.
5. Tighten screw on the puller until the sleeve
comes free from the cylinder block bore.
Remove shims (2), if any are installed.
125
Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435
With early engine production, a crevice seal,

similar to an O-ring, was installed in the groove
located in the outside diameter of the cylinder
sleeve, near the sleeve top. It has been
determined, however, that the crevice seal is not
necessary. Therefore, effective approximately
December 1998, the crevice seal is no longer
used in production engines. Additionally, effective
January 1999, the crevice seal groove in the
cylinder sleeve has been eliminated.
Effective with these production changes, cylinder
sleeve part Nos. 509GC463 and 509GC466 for
service use will not have the crevice seal groove,
and it is recommended that use of the crevice
seal be discontinued in all engine repairs or
rebuilds, whether or not the liner has a crevice
seal groove.
Figure 125 Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller PT6435
6. Remove the puller from the sleeve.

7. Remove the crevice seal from the sleeve, if
so equipped.
8. Repeat steps 2 through 7 to remove the
remaining cylinder sleeves.
Page 135
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
126
Compressed air used for cleaning can create

airborne particles that may enter the eyes or
irritate the skin. Pressure must not exceed
30 psi (207 kPa). Eye protection is required.
Use only with effective chip guarding and
personal protective equipment (goggles/
shield, gloves, etc.).
Cleaning the cylinder block is important. While

cleaning the cylinder block, carefully inspect the
areas around the cup plugs and the coolant
jacket. If cup plugs or pipe plugs show signs of
leaking, they should be replaced.
Cleaning the cylinder block is a good time to
inspect it for cracks or other possible defects that
may be reason for rejection. Refer to the
TROUBLESHOOTING section of this manual for
information on testing for leaks in the cylinder
head and cylinder block. If damage is not found
until after the engine is assembled, the engine
must be disassembled and rebuilt again.
Figure 126 Cylinder Sleeve Removal
1. Cylinder Sleeve
2. Shims
3. Counterbore Ledge
4. Cylinder Block
Cleaning and Inspection

The engine should have been thoroughly steam
cleaned prior to component removal. If heavy
accumulations of dirt and grease are still present,
steam clean the block as thoroughly as possible
before attempting to clean with solvents.
Cleaning solvent is flammable and toxic to the

eyes, skin and respiratory tract. Skin and eye
protection is required. Avoid repeated or
prolonged contact. Use only in well-ventilated
area.
Page 136
SOLVENT TANK CLEANING
Use a cleaning tank large enough to

accommodate the largest component to be
cleaned. Fill the tank with a suitable solvent and
always use caution while cleaning parts. Parts
may be dried with compressed air.
1. Scrape any remaining gasket material from
the block.
2. Using a wire brush or rotary wheel, remove
any rust, corrosion or other debris from the
block.
3. Clean all other block surfaces with mineral
spirits or other suitable solvent.
4. Using due care and caution, clean and dry
the block with compressed air.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION
Cylinder Sleeve Counterbore

[211 DB]
A complete discussion of the proper methods of

precision measuring and inspection is outside the
scope of this manual. However, every shop
should be equipped with standard gauges, such
as bore gauges, dial indicators, outside and
inside micrometers, thickness gauges and
straightedges.
Check the cylinder block for indications of
cracking or coolant leakage. If any damage is
suspected, use a standard dye penetrant or
magnaflux procedure to determine if cracks exist.
A cracked engine block must be replaced and
never reused.
Using a straightedge (PT5027 or equivalent) and
thickness gauges, check the cylinder head
mounting surfaces for flatness. The cylinder block
mounting surface on a service block should be
flat within 0.004 inch (0.102 mm).
127
INSPECTION AND REPAIR

If the cylinder block deck is resurfaced, the
cylinder sleeve counterbore depth must be recut
to specification. If the cylinder block deck was not
resurfaced but cylinder sleeve counterbore
surface shows excessive pitting or erosion, recut
the counterbore as required.
Use shims to re-establish the correct liner flange
height. Shims are available in the following
thicknesses: 0.002, 0.003, 0.004, 0.008, 0.010,
0.012 and 0.014 inch.
To resurface the cylinder sleeve counterbore area
of the cylinder block, use counterbore tool
PT2210 with counterbore cutter plate PT2210-3A.
This procedure can be performed either in or out

of the chassis. If performing the procedure in the
chassis, be sure to cover the crankshaft and any
holes in the block to prevent contamination from
machining chips.
Do not cut seats deeper than 4.034 inches

(102.464 mm).
1. Make sure that the top of the deck is clean
and free of burrs. Use a finish mill file and
crocus cloth, if necessary, to create a
smooth, flat surface for positioning the tool.
Figure 127 Checking Flatness of Cylinder Block Deck
If the cylinder block is determined to be

serviceable after thorough cleaning and
inspection, reassemble the engine. Use
replacement or original parts, as determined
during component inspection.
2. Using compressed air, thoroughly remove all

debris.
Universal dial depth gauge PT5025, with a threeinch stylus extension PT5052-11, is
recommended for measuring the counterbore.
Page 137
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Measure and record the counterbore in four
places, 90 degrees apart. Using a depth
gauge with a three-inch extension, mark the
shallowest point. Subtract the lowest
number from the highest number. This is the
minimum amount to be machined for
cleanup.
SETTING UP COUNTERBORE TOOL PT2210
WITH CUTTER PLATE PT2210-3A
1. Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down
capscrews (9). Install cutter bit (11) into
cutter plate PT2210-3A (13) by turning the
cutter bit adjuster (10) counterclockwise.
Cutter bit face must be facing a clockwise
rotation cut.
Do not tighten the cutter bit hold-down cap (12).

The cutter point should not extend beyond the
outer edge of the cutter plate. If the cutter bit does
stick out, damage to the bit will occur when
installing counterbore tool onto cylinder block.
2. Install the cutter plate on the main shaft (15).
Use the large end of hex key wrench
PT2210-14 (18) to hold the cutter plate and
tighten securely. The hole in the side of the
cutter plate accepts the large end of the tool.
Do not allow the cutter bit (11) to touch the

cylinder sleeve bore wall.
When the entire block must be counterbored, cut

the deepest bores first. This way, the tool can be
adjusted to the lowest depth and used for all
cylinders, ensuring uniform depth on all cylinder
counterbores.
Page 138
3. Position the tool in the cylinder bore by

backing off the depth-set collars (5 and 16)
and lowering the cutter plate (13) into the
counterbore to center the tool.
4. Secure the cutter plate to the cylinder block
with four M16 x 2 x 90 hex-head capscrews
(3) and special washers (4) from the
counterbore tool kit PT2210.
5. Cross-torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft
(41 Nm) using torque wrench J 24406 or
equivalent.
Lift T-handle (2) slightly (so cutter plate is not in

contact with the counterbore) and rotate the
mainshaft (15) counterclockwise to ensure cutter
plate turns freely without binding. If necessary,
loosen the capscrews and relocate the tool.
6. Using the counterbore tool T-handle (2),
raise the cutter plate approximately 1/2 inch
(12.7 mm) from the counterbore ledge.
7. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn
the cutter bit adjusting screw (10) clockwise
until the cutter bit contacts the counterbore
ledge. Do not touch the counterbore wall.
8. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) and
lower the cutter plate until the cutter rests on
the ledge.
9. Rotate the lower depth-set collar down until
the collar contacts the main housing.
10. Rotate the collar an additional five
increments totaling 0.005 inch (0.127 mm).
Each graduation of the collar is onethousandth (0.001) of an inch (0.025 mm).
This will lift the cutter bit 0.005 inch
(0.127 mm) off the counterbore ledge,
allowing an accurate setting of the cutter bit.
It may be necessary to use a flashlight to see the

cutter bit adjusting screw.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
11. Using hex key wrench PT2210-14 (18), turn
the cutter bit adjusting screw clockwise until
the cutter bit rests on the counterbore ledge.
12. If the cutter bit will not adjust, adjust the
lower depth-set collar (16) 0.005 inch
(0.127 mm) more and recheck cutter bit
hold-down screws for looseness.
13. Zero the depth-set collars:
a.
Back off the lower depth-set collar (16)

and carefully lower the cutter plate (13)
into the bore and allow the cutter to rest
on the counterbore ledge.
b.
Rotate both depth-set collars (5 and 16)

down until the bottom collar contacts
the main housing (8).
Do not force the collar beyond this point, as it will

lift the cutter plate and prevent an accurate zero
reading.
14. Set the depth of the cut. Determine the final
depth of the cut and back off the top depthset collar accordingly. Each increment on the
depth-set collar increases the depth of the
cut by one-thousandth (0.001) of an inch
(0.025 mm). Tighten the thumbscrew (17) on
the upper collar (5) securely.
Page 139
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
128
Figure 128 Counterbore Ledge Tool Installation

1. Cutter Plate Holder
2. T-Handle
3. Capscrews, M16 x 2 x 90
4. Special Washers
5. Upper Depth-Set Collar
6. Lower Thumbscrew
7. Oil Fill Tube
8. Main Housing
9. Hold-Down Capscrews
Page 140
10. Cutter Bit Adjuster

11. Cutter Bit
12. Hold-Down Cap
13. Cutter Plate
14. Cylinder Block
15. Main Shaft
16. Lower Depth-Set Collar
17. Upper Thumbscrew
18. Hex Key Wrench
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CUTTING THE COUNTERBORE
COUNTERBORE DEPTH MEASUREMENT
Refer back to Figure 128.
Measure the counterbore depth (Figure 129) and

calculate the number of shims (part Nos.
505GC26P2, P3, P4, P10, P12 and P14) needed
to obtain proper cylinder sleeve flange height.
The shim P number signifies shim thickness,
i.e., P14 is 0.014-inch thick. When installing
shims, always use the thickest shims and the
least amount of shims as possible to obtain the
proper sleeve flange height.
1. Fill the oil fill tube (7) with 30W nondetergent

oil to maintain lubrication during use.
2. Back off the lower depth-set collar (16) two
increments or less, and tighten the
thumbscrew (6) securely.
3. Cut the counterbore by turning the T-handle
clockwise while maintaining constant
downward pressure on the tool. Stop the
handle in a different position to avoid
creating a ridge in the counterbore.
4. Continue backing off the lower depth-set
collar, no more than two graduations per cut.
Check the depth measurement between
each adjustment. Plan to remove 0.001 inch
(0.025 mm) on the final cut to meet the final
predetermined counterbore depth. This
ensures achieving a very fine machined
finish.
The standard production counterbore depth has

been changed from 4.0004.004 inches to
3.9984.002 inches.
129
5. Remove the tool from the cylinder bore.

a.
Loosen the two cutter bit hold-down

capscrews (9) and rotate the cutter bit
adjusting screw (10) counterclockwise
until the cutter bit is retracted into the
cutter plate (13).
b.
Remove the four machine hold-down

bolts (3) and special washers (4).
c.
Remove the tool from the cylinder bore.
6. Follow steps 1 through 5 for the remaining

cylinders.
Figure 129 Counterbore Depth Measurement
Page 141
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cup Plug Replacement
INSTALLATION
1. After cleaning the plug hole, apply a thin
coat of Loctite 277 to both the surface of
the hole and the outer edge of the plug.
REMOVAL
1. Using a hammer and punch, drive one edge
of the plug inward. The plug should rotate
causing the opposite edge to move outward.
When the edge moves out far enough, grab
it with a pair of pliers and pull it out.
2. Using a proper driver, align the plug in the

hole and drive it inward until the outer lip of
the plug is flush with the cylinder block.
131
If, after several taps with a hammer, the plug does

not rotate and is being driven inward, stop
tapping. Drill a hole approximately 1/8 inch
(3.2 mm) in diameter in the center of the plug.
Insert a sheet-metal screw in the hole. Leave
enough of the screw protruding from the plug to
allow a pry bar to be inserted under the head of
the screw and pry the plug out.
2. Clean the plug hole(s) with a wire brush or
wire wheel. After cleaning, visually check the
surface for cracks.
130
Figure 130 Cylinder Block Plugs

1. Coolant Passage Cup
Plug
2. Upper Fuel Gallery Pipe
Plug
Page 142
3. Lower Fuel Gallery Pipe

Plug
4. Oil Gallery Pipe Plug
Figure 131 Cylinder Block Cup Plug Installation
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Pipe Plug Replacement
H-Ring Replacement
[213 LD]
Any rust around a pipe plug is an indication of a

leak and the plug should be replaced.
REMOVAL
1. Using an appropriate wrench, remove the
plug.
2. Clean the threads in the block by running a
tap into the hole, just far enough to remove
any rust on the threads without expanding
the diameter of the hole. Use compressed
air to remove any chips from the block.
H-rings are placed in the lifter bores to prevent

the lifters from turning, and performing the same
function as the roller tappet guide pins used with
electronic unit pumps. The H-rings have an
interference fit with the lifter bores in which they
are installed and, under normal circumstances,
are never removed.
If an unusual failure situation results in an H-ring
being dislodged, it can be reinstalled or replaced
with a new part, as required, using the following
procedure:
1. Remove the affected H-ring, using remover
tool J 42426 in combination with slide
hammer J 6125-1B. Refer to Figure 132.
132
It is best to replace a leaking pipe plug. However,

if reusing the same plug, clean thoroughly, paying
special attention to the threads.
3. Using a wire wheel, clean the threads of the
plug. Visually check the thread surfaces for
burrs or damage. Then clean and check the
remaining surfaces.
INSTALLATION
Apply an appropriate Teflon thread sealant to
the threads and install the plug. Tighten the plug
to specification. Refer to the torque chart in the
SPECIFICATIONS section of this manual.
New plugs may already have a sealer applied to

the threads. Applying a Teflon sealer to the
threads will not adversely affect the precoating.
Figure 132 H-Ring Removal
Page 143
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
134
In some cases, the H-ring remover tool may not

position the collet far enough into the H-ring to
provide proper engagement for removal. If this
situation occurs, remove 0.375 inches (9.5 mm)
of the threads by grinding or cutting them down;
remove any burrs. This will allow the tool to be
positioned further into the lifter bore.
2. Inspect the cylinder block lifter bore and
place a new H-ring into the top of the bore. If
a new H-ring is a slip-fit in the bore, the bore
is oversize.
3. If the lifter bore appears OK (will support the
interference fit of the H-ring), clean the bore
and dislodged H-ring (or new H-ring, if
required) with Loctite Primer T. Then apply
Loctite RC/609 to the bore and to the
H-ring outside surface.
4. Use service tool J 41683 to install the H-ring.
This tool pilots into two lifter bores at the
same time to properly align and install the
H-ring. If the proper interference fit has been
maintained, resistance should be felt as the
H-ring is driven into the bore. Refer to
Figure 133 and Figure 134.
Figure 134 H-Ring Installation
Be sure the H-ring is installed with grooved side

toward the bottom. Refer to Figure 135.
135
133
Figure 135 H-Ring
Figure 133 H-Ring Installation Tool
Page 144
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Camshaft Bushing Replacement
2. Remove the remaining six bushings in

sequence.
[213 CC]
Typically, camshaft bushings have an extremely
long service life and need not be replaced unless
they are obviously damaged or worn beyond
normal wear limits. However, It is good policy to
replace the camshaft bushings when overhauling
the engine out of chassis, even if the bushings
are within acceptable wear tolerances.
REMOVAL
Camshaft bushings are identified in sequence, 1

to 7, starting from the front of the engine.
1. Using camshaft bushing remover/installer
J 42377 (with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing
Installer Set) and a hammer, remove the
No. 1 camshaft bushing from the cylinder
block. Refer to Figure 136.
136
3. Check the bushing bore diameters and finish

in the block, using a telescoping gauge or
inside micrometer.
CAMSHAFT BUSHING ALIGNMENT
Each camshaft bushing is located at set
distances from the thrust washer mounting
surface to the forward edge of the bushing. Refer
to Figure 137.
When installed to the proper dimensions, the
intermediate bushings (locations 2, 3, 5 and 6)
are approximately centered in their bores, in the
front-to-rear direction. The front, center and rear
bushings, however, are not centered. The offsets
are described as follows:
r
No. 1 bushing Installed with the front of

the bushing flush, to 0.030 inch behind the
front face of the bore. There is
approximately 1/8-inch of the bore visible on
the rear side of the bushing.
No. 4 bushing When installed correctly,

there is approximately 0.400 inch (10 mm) of
bore visible at the front face of the bushing,
and approximately 0.040 inch (1 mm) of
bushing protrusion from the rear of the bore.
No. 7 bushing When installed correctly,

there is an approximate 1/8-inch wide
section of bore visible at the front face of the
bushing.
Installing the cam bushings to the correct

dimensions optimizes bushing-to-cylinder block
oil hole alignment. Even when installed to the
proper dimensions, however, the No. 1 and No. 4
bushings have only approximately 1/2-to-2/3 of
the oil hole in alignment with the oil hole in the
bore, as 100 percent oil hole alignment is not
attainable or required.
Figure 136 Camshaft Bushing Removal
Beginning approximately mid-December 1999, a

groove, 360 degrees around the inside diameter,
has been added to the camshaft bushings (part
No. 57GB37). The grooved bushings can be used
with either the grooved or non-grooved camshaft
journals, and the camshaft with grooved journals
can be used with either grooved or non-grooved
bushings. Parts can be intermixed in an engine.
Page 145
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
137
Figure 137 Camshaft Bushing Locations
Page 146
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
BUSHING INSTALLATION
1. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the
bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air.
2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark
the block and bushing with a line to facilitate
correct alignment at installation. Refer to
Figure 138.
138
Correct installation of each camshaft bushing is

very important. If a bushing is not properly
aligned with both its oil supply and oil feed
passages in the cylinder block, either the
camshaft bushing will fail or the components
lubricated by the bushing feed will fail from
inadequate lubrication.
5. Install the camshaft bushings in sequence,
starting at the back of the cylinder block with
No. 7 and finishing with No. 1.
6. After all the bushings are in place, measure
the ID of each to ensure that they are not
undersize because of burrs on the OD
caused by installation (Figure 139). Refer to
the Fits and Limits charts in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for the correct
bushing ID dimensions.
139
Figure 138 Camshaft Bushing Installation

1. Bushing Oil Hole
2. Bushing
3. Pilot Adapter (J 42377)
4. Bushing Remover/
Installer (J 21428-01 Kit)
5. Alignment Mark
6. Mounting Hole
7. Block Oil Passage
3. Position the replacement bushing (2) against

the side of the block at the No. 7 (rear)
bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the
bushing (1) with the oil passage (7) in the
block.
4. Using bushing remover/installer J 42377
(with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing Installer
Set), install the bushing.
Figure 139 Camshaft Bushing ID Check
Page 147
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Auxiliary Shaft Bushing
Replacement
BUSHING REMOVAL
[212 CB]
Use J 21428-01 to remove the bushings. If there

is any indication that a bushing has turned in the
block, check the bushing bore diameter with a
telescoping gauge or inside micrometer.
The front and rear auxiliary shaft bushings are

identical. Procedures for inspection and
replacement are as follow:
BUSHING INSTALLATION
INSPECTION
1. Using a telescope gauge or inside
micrometer, measure the auxiliary bushing
bores. Take two readings, perpendicular to
each other, in each bore. Record the
readings. Refer to Figure 140.
2. Compare the readings with tolerances listed
under Fits and Limits in the
SPECIFICATIONS section.
140
Correct installation of the auxiliary shaft bushings

is very important. If the front bushing is
misaligned, lubrication oil flow to the front
bushing and journal will be blocked. The rear
bushing does not have any cylinder block oil
passage to align with the holes in the bushing.
However, the oil holes in the bushing and the oil
groove between those oil holes are in the most
desirable location when the bushing is installed
with indexing notches at the 5:30 and 10 oclock
positions.
Use care not to lose the short oil feed tube,
1.25 inches (32 mm) in length, which connects
the oil feed hole in the rear of the auxiliary shaft to
the oil feed hole in the front of the air compressor
crankshaft. If it is accidentally lost during air
compressor or auxiliary shaft service work and
not reinstalled, the compressor will fail from oil
starvation. Also, the loss of oil pressure resulting
from the missing tube can cause damage and
problems in other components and parts.
Figure 140 Auxiliary Shaft Bushing ID Check
Page 148
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil hole alignment of the front bushing-to-cylinder
block oil holes must be checked prior to, and at
the completion of, installation. The cylinder block
rear bushing bore has no oil holes to align with
the bushing oil holes, so simply install the

bushings with the indexing notches at the 5:30
and 10 oclock positions. Refer to Figure 141 and
Figure 142.
141
Figure 141 Front Camshaft and Auxiliary Shaft Assembly Notch Locations
Page 149
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
142
143
Figure 142 Rear Auxiliary Bushing Alignment
1. Clean the surfaces of the bushing and the

bore. Dry both surfaces with compressed air.
2. Using a dark-colored felt-tip marker, mark
the block and the bushing with a line (1) to
facilitate correct alignment during
installation. Refer to Figure 143.
3. Position the replacement bushing (2) against
the front face of the block at the front
bushing bore. Align the oil hole in the
bushing with the hole in the block.
Page 150
Figure 143 Auxiliary Shaft Bushing Alignment

1. Alignment Mark
2. Bushing
3. Pilot Adapter J 37713
4. Camshaft Bushing
Remover/Installer
(J 21428-01 Kit)
4. Using camshaft bushing removal/installation

tool J 21428-01 (4) and the appropriate pilot
adapter (3), install the bushing.
5. Check the bushing surface for burrs caused
by installation.
6. After the bushing is in place, measure the ID
to ensure that the bushing is not undersize
because of burrs on the OD caused by
installation. Refer to the Fits and Limits chart
in the SPECIFICATIONS section in this
manual for the bushing ID dimensions.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
7. Working from the front of the cylinder block,
repeat steps 1 through 6 to install the front
bushing.
8. Bushings must be installed to the depths
described in Figure 144.
The front auxiliary shaft bushing must be flush or

recessed within 0.030 inch (0.763 mm) of the
machined front surface of the cylinder block.
Incorrect recess will cause misalignment of the oil
supply hole, resulting in insufficient lubrication of
the journal. Also, any bushing protrusion will allow
the thrust washer to seat on the bushing and
result in the thrust washer mounting screws
coming loose.
144
Figure 144 Auxiliary Bushing Installation Dimensions
9. Install the thrust washer and tighten the

retaining screws to the specified torque,
15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
Page 151
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Sleeve Installation
INSTALLATION PROCEDURE
[212 NC]
GENERAL INFORMATION
The cylinder sleeves are a wet-dry design made
of centrifugally cast alloyed iron. Working with the
pistons, piston rings, cylinder heads and cylinder
head gaskets, the sleeves provide a seal against
combustion pressure. The sleeves also transfer
combustion heat to the engine coolant and guide
piston travel. Correct extension of the sleeve
flange above the top deck and uniform cylinder
block counterbore are essential for satisfactory
sleeve service life and head gasket seal.
With early engine production, a crevice seal,

similar to an O-ring, was installed in the groove
located in the outside diameter of the cylinder
sleeve, near the sleeve top. It has been
determined, however, that the crevice seal is not
necessary. Therefore, effective approximately
December 1998, the crevice seal is no longer
used in production engines. Additionally, effective
January 1999, the crevice seal groove in the
cylinder sleeve has been eliminated.
Effective with these production changes, cylinder
sleeve part Nos. 509GC463 and 509GC466 for
service use will not have the crevice seal groove,
and it is recommended that use of the crevice
seal be discontinued in all engine repairs or
rebuilds whether or not the liner has a crevice
seal groove.

r
Depth Gauge J 26948
Dial Bore Gauge J 5347-B
Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker J 5902-01
Page 152
1. Thoroughly clean and dry the prepared

cylinder block (4), counterbore ledge (3) and
cylinder sleeves (1). Refer to the cylinder
block cleaning and inspection procedures in
this section.
2. If the counterbore ledge (3) has been cut,
place the shims (2) on the cylinder block
counterbore ledge. Use the fewest number
of shims required to achieve the proper
cylinder sleeve flange height. Always place
the thickest shim on the bottom.
If shims are used, apply RTV silicone on top of

the shims only. If RTV is applied under the shims,
the shims may be displaced when the sleeve is
installed
3. Apply approximately a 0.1200.160-inch
(3.0484.064-mm) bead of RTV silicone
(MACK Silastic 342SX32, Dow Corning
Silastic RTV732 or General Electric
RTV130) on the cylinder block sleeve seat
and completely around the cylinder wall as
shown in Figure 145. Do not use excessive
amounts of RTV. Do not apply more than a
0.160-inch bead.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
145
Figure 145 Cylinder Block Sleeve Seat
4. Position the cylinder sleeve (1) in the

cylinder bore.
Applying a Silastic bead is now standard
assembly procedure whenever cylinder sleeves
are installed.
To prevent partial curing and questionable sealing
and bonding, apply Silastic just before installing
the sleeves.
5. With the palms of the hands placed on the

upper end of the cylinder sleeve 180
degrees apart, push downward with a quick,
even pressure. Then, using a large plasticfaced hammer, tap the sleeve close to the
inside diameter to fully seat the sleeve. Tap
alternately from one side to the other,
gradually working around the entire
circumference of the sleeve.
The cylinder block counterbore ledge and the

cylinder sleeve must be kept clean and free of
any oil residue to ensure that the Silastic bead
seals and bonds properly.
Page 153
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
146
Figure 146 Sleeve Installation

1. Sleeve
2. Shims (as Required)
3. Counterbore Ledge
4. Cylinder Block
Clean any RTV from around the bottom of the

cylinder sleeve and the block which may have
been pressed out from the sealing surfaces of the
block and sleeve during installation.
6. After the cylinder sleeve is fully seated, use
depth gauge J 26948, or equivalent, to
check the flange height-above-deck
dimensions. The specified dimension is
0.0230.029 inch (0.5840.737 mm). The
measurement should be taken in the
channel between the sleeve top lip (fire
dam) and the coining bead. Refer to
Figure 147.
Page 154
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
147
Figure 147 Cylinder Sleeve/Fire Ring Configuration
Page 155
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
HONING THE CYLINDER SLEEVE BORE
The height of the cylinder sleeves above the
cylinder block deck (under the same cylinder
head) can vary as long as all are within the
0.0230.029-inch (0.5840.737-mm)
specification.
7. Using dial bore gauge J 5347-B, or
equivalent, check the cylinder sleeve for outof-round and taper limit (Figure 148). Take
readings in two directions, 90 degrees apart,
at each of three levels.
Cylinder sleeve ID maximum: 4.877 inches

(123.876 mm).
Cylinder sleeve ID minimum: 4.875 inches
(123.825 mm). The cylinder sleeve ID may
be a minimum 4.872 inches (123.749 mm)
due to close-in from press fit.
148
Figure 148 Checking Cylinder Sleeve for

Out-of-Round or Taper
Page 156
All MACK engines currently produced have fine

precision-finished cylinder sleeves. Because of
the precision finish, honing is NOT
recommended. Particles from the honing process
which become wedged in the pattern are
impossible to completely remove and can cause
further damage.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Piston Cooling Spray Nozzle
Installation
149
[219 RV]
r
Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer

J 39045
1. Using a liberal amount of lubricant, install
the elastomer sleeve (7) on the locator tube
(6).
2. Install a retaining screw (4) in the spray
nozzle bracket (3).
3. Position the spray nozzle locator tube (6) in
the cylinder block oil passage (2) and using
torque wrench J 24406, or equivalent,
tighten the retaining screw to the specified
torque, 15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
Figure 149 Spray Nozzle Installation

1. Threaded Hole
2. Oil Passage
3. Spray Nozzle Bracket
4. Retaining Screw
5. Cylinder Block
6. Locator Tube
7. Elastomer Sleeve
Page 157
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
PISTON COOLING NOZZLE SPRAY
POSITIONING
The piston cooling oil spray target location on the
underside of the piston is important. It ensures
adequate dissipation of heat from the piston.
Correct positioning of the nozzles also ensures
that the crankshaft counterweights do not strike
the nozzles.
For ease of installation and to reduce the amount

of crankshaft rotation needed to facilitate access
to the spray nozzles, install the spray nozzles in
the following set order: cylinders 1 and 6, 5 and 2,
3 and 4.
150
Figure 150 Spray Nozzle Patterns

1. Old Pattern (E7 Engine with Aluminum Pistons,
Prior to 1991)
Using piston cooling nozzle spray position set

J 39045 (1991 and later), check the direction of
the spray from the nozzles. Refer to Figure 151.
1. Position rod (6) in the end of the spray
nozzle (7).
Page 158
2. New Pattern (E-Tech and E7 Engines with Two-Piece

Pistons, 1991 and Later)
2. Place the applicable plastic target (1) on the

cylinder block (2) over the cylinder to be
tested.
3. Install a cylinder head bolt through the target
alignment hole (3) and into the cylinder block
capscrew hole (4) to align the target.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. The rod (6) should now be aligned in the
target area (5). If the rod is at the edge of the
target area, center the rod in the target area
as follows:
a.
b.
Loosen the nozzle setscrew. A slight

adjustment can then be made to center
the rod within the target area.
Following adjustment, tighten the
setscrew to the specified torque,
15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
Always replace a badly deformed spray nozzle.

Do not attempt to realign it. Precise targeting is
necessary to adequately cool the piston crown.
Cylinder Block Dowel Pin

Replacement
[211 HA]
GENERAL INFORMATION
The E-Tech engine uses precision-made
round-type and blade-type locating dowel pins for
alignment of the front cover and flywheel housing.
A blade-type pin is used for alignment of the
flywheel.
r
Flywheel Housing/Timing (Front) Cover

Locating Pin Driver J 37712
151
REMOVAL
If it is necessary to remove the front cover or
flywheel housing locating dowel pins, do so as
follows:
1. Securely clamp the pin with a pair of locking
pliers.
2. While exerting an outward force, rotate the
pin back and forth until the pin works free
from the hole.
INSTALLATION
Two dowel pins are used to locate the flywheel
housing to the cylinder block. One dowel is round,
the other is a blade type. One end of the bladetype pin is also round and is the end installed in
cylinder block.
The dowels used for the front cover installation

are similar except for the size. The smaller
dowels are used for the front cover. The larger
dowels are used for the flywheel housing.
Figure 151 Spray Nozzle Targeting
1. Plastic Target
2. Cylinder Block
3. Alignment Hole
4. Cylinder Block Hole
5. Target Area
6. Rod
7. Spray Nozzle
Page 159
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ROUND DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION
1. Insert the round dowel pin (2) into the
flywheel housing/front cover locating pin
driver J 37712 (1). The pin must be
positioned in the driver with the tapered end
of the dowel facing outward.
2. Position the exposed end of the dowel into
the left dowel pin hole (4) in the cylinder
block (3).
3. Using a hammer, drive the pin into the block
until the driver contacts the cylinder block.
When the driver has made contact with the
block, the dowel pin will be at the correct
dimension above the block surface.
152
Figure 152 Round Dowel Pin Installation

1. Locating Pin Driver
2. Round Dowel Pin
Page 160
3. Cylinder Block
4. Dowel Pin Hole
BLADE-TYPE DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION

1. Position the round end of the blade-type
dowel pin into the dowel pin hole in the
cylinder block. The blade end must be
aligned vertically (up and down) with the
block.
2. Using a hammer, drive the dowel pin into the
block until the shoulder of the pin is flush
with the cylinder block surface.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL
BENCH PROCEDURES
General Information
Initially, flywheels used with E-Tech engines
have six timing grooves milled into the face
surface for standardization with the E7 PLN
engines. However, the grooves are not required
for E-Tech engines and are eliminated on
current-production flywheels.
5. Measure the crankshaft journals with a

micrometer. Measure each journal in two
locations, 90 degrees apart, and record the
measurements.
6. Check the measurements against
specifications listed under Fits and Limits in
the SPECIFICATIONS section.
7. If the crankshaft journals are worn, out of
round, or tapered, replace the crankshaft.
New or exchange crankshafts are available
from MACK Parts Distribution Centers.
Crankshaft Inspection
[212 HP]
GENERAL INSTRUCTIONS
All bearing surfaces must be free of grit and

burrs. Small particles of dust and dirt left between
the crankshaft and bearings will cause rapid wear
and scoring of the crankshaft journal and inserts.
Any foreign material left between the crankshaft
bearing inserts and caps will cause distortion of
the insert and a reduction in operating clearance
at that point. The resulting frictional heat at the
point of distortion will cause the bearing material
to melt away from steel backing of the bearing.
Such melted material will create further hot spots
until complete bearing failure occurs. Anything
that interferes with the operating clearance of any
bearing and proper heat dissipation affects
bearing life. Cleanliness cannot be overstressed.
Crankshaft regrinding by anyone other than Mack

Trucks, Inc. is NOT recommended due to the tight
control required on maintaining geometrical
tolerances, and the hardened characteristics of
crankshaft journals and journal fillets.
If crankshaft main journals or connecting rod
journals are not a standard size, be sure to use
properly sized bearing inserts when reassembling
the engine. Bearing insert sizing is identified with
a P following the part number, and is stamped
on the back side of the bearing insert. For
example, if a journal is 0.010 inch (0.254 mm)
undersize, a 0.010-inch undersize bearing is
required and will be stamped P10.
Some crankshafts may have journals which are

0.002 inch (0.0508 mm) undersize. These
crankshafts are marked by a streak of white paint
adjacent to the journal. Always check the journals
to ensure using bearing inserts of the proper size.
INSPECTION
1. Inspect the crankshaft journals for out of
round, taper and poor surface finish.
2. Visually check the crankshaft for any
apparent cracks, worn journals and damage
to threads, dowel pin or main drive gear.
3. Magnaflux the crankshaft to check further for
cracks. This process requires special
equipment and application methods.
4. Using standard machinists inspection
practice, check the crankshaft to ensure it is
straight.
Page 161
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Dowel Pin Replacement

153
[212 HA]
All E-Tech engine crankshafts are equipped
with a blade-type flywheel-to-crankshaft dowel
pin installed in the rear flange directly opposite
the manufacturing locator hole. Hole sizes are as
follows:
Manufacturing locator hole approximately
1/2 inch (12.7 mm) in diameter and 3/8 inch
(9.52 mm) deep; used in the manufacturing
process
Flywheel dowel pin hole approximately
9/16 inch (14.29 mm) in diameter by 7/8 inch
(22.23 mm) deep
All new service replacement crankshafts, short
blocks or basic engines will have a dowel pin in
the crankshaft rear flange. In nearly all cases, the
flywheel will already have a hole in it to accept the
dowel pin. If an earlier version flywheel or torque
converter drive flange without a dowel pin hole is
used for replacement, it must be reworked.
If it is necessary to rework the flywheel or torque
converter drive flange, two holes must be added
using a 19/32-inch drill bit. One hole is for the
dowel pin and another directly opposite the first
hole is to maintain balance of the flywheel/torque
converter drive flange.
Figure 153 Dowel Pin Hole Dimensions (Flywheel or

Torque Converter Drive Flange)
DOWEL PIN REMOVAL

To remove the crankshaft dowel pin:
1. Securely grip the dowel pin with locking
pliers.
2. Rotate the dowel pin back and forth while
exerting outward pressure until the pin is
removed.
Page 162
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
DOWEL PIN INSTALLATION
REPLACEMENT
To install a replacement crankshaft dowel pin:
1. Position the dowel pin in a 0.5562-inch

(14.1275-mm) diameter unthreaded hole in
the rear flange of the crankshaft. The pin
must be installed with the flat surface
aligned parallel to the center of the
crankshaft as shown in Figure 154.
2. Use a soft metal hammer and punch to drive
the pin into the hole. The pin must be firmly
seated and protrude 0.77 inch (19.56 mm)
from the crankshaft.
154
1. Using a suitable puller, such as J 21834-4A,

or equivalent, remove the gear and key.
The threads in the end of the crankshaft are

M8 x 1.25.
2. Clean the gear mounting surface. It should
be free of grooves, scratches and burrs. Use
a file, sandpaper or crocus cloth, as
required.
Take care not to damage the key slot while

installing the key.
3. Insert the key (4) into the key slot (3). Lightly
tap the key with a soft metal hammer to seat
it in the slot.
4. Heat the replacement gear (1) to
approximately 250F (121C) in a
temperature-controlled oven or on a hot
plate.
Figure 154 Dowel Pin Alignment
Crankshaft Gear Replacement

[212 HV]
Wear protective gloves when handling the heated

crankshaft gear to prevent burns or personal
injury.
INSPECTION
After inspecting the crankshaft and determining
that it is within specification, inspect the
crankshaft gear for cracks and broken, worn or
chipped teeth. If the gear is defective, it must be
replaced.
Take care not to damage the gear teeth while

seating the gear.
Page 163
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Position the gear over the end of the
crankshaft (2) with the timing mark facing
outward, the chamfer (6) toward the rear of
the shaft, and the key slot aligned with key in
the shaft.
6. In one rapid motion, push the heated gear
against the flange (5). With the gear properly
positioned, immediately and carefully tap the
gear to help seat it against the flange.
Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation

[212 JH]
When the service oil seal is to be replaced and
the crankshaft flange is worn, the crankshaft can
be salvaged by installing a crankshaft wear ring.
An oil seal with a larger inside diameter is used
with this wear ring.
155

r
Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer J 37716-A
Wear Ring Installer J 38880
Universal Driver Handle J 8092
REMOVAL
A limited number of crankshafts were

manufactured with a repair sleeve installed on the
flange. The repair sleeve is usually not noticeable
and is finish ground to standard flange size. If the
repair sleeve is damaged or becomes loose, the
crankshaft must be replaced.
Special care must be taken not to damage the
crankshaft flange during wear ring removal.
Figure 155 Drive Gear Installation

1. Gear
2. Shaft
3. Key Slot
Page 164
4. Key
5. Flange
6. Chamfer
1. The wear ring can be removed by carefully

applying heat, using a ball-peen hammer to
expand the diameter, or by using a chisel to
split the wear ring. Use extreme care not to
damage the crankshaft flange.
Place the chisel face squarely on the wear ring

and carefully strike the chisel with a hammer to
cut part-way through the ring. The wear ring will
loosen enough to be removed without cutting
completely through it. The goal is to carefully
remove the wear ring in this manner and not cut,
nick or damage the crankshaft flange.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Thoroughly clean the flange area of the
crankshaft. Check for nicks or scratches and
repair any damaged areas with crocus cloth
as necessary.
157
156
Figure 157 Proper Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation
Figure 156 Crankshaft Wear Ring Removal
1. Position the wear ring in the spring clips of

the wear ring installer J 38880 with the arrow
pointing away from the installer tool. Refer to
Figure 158.
158
INSTALLATION
On some wear rings it may be difficult to

determine the direction of the arrow on the inside
diameter. In this case, ensure proper installation
by installing the wear ring with the chamfer on the
inside diameter toward the engine. The chamfer
on the outside diameter of the wear ring must
face away from the engine.
Figure 158 Crankshaft Wear Ring Installation
The crankshaft wear ring is a shrink fit on the

crankshaft flange. Use wear ring installer J 38880
and universal driver handle J 8092 to install the
ring to the proper depth.
Page 165
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Heat the wear ring and wear ring installer
together in a temperature-controlled oven or
on a hotplate, with the wear ring on the
bottom and installed in the spring clips of the
installer. Work as close as possible to the
engine to avoid heat loss after heating the
ring. Heat to 400F (205C). Do not install
the driver handle at this time. This allows the
wear ring to maintain sufficient heat until it is
fully installed on the flange.
Do not heat the wear ring with a torch. This type

of heat source will not heat the ring evenly.
3. Thoroughly clean and dry the crankshaft oil
seal mounting flange.
4. After the wear ring is sufficiently heated, use
heat-resistant gloves to install the universal
driver handle J 8092 into the threaded hole
in the center of the installation tool.
5. Remove the wear ring and installation tool
from the oven or hot plate and immediately
place in position on the crankshaft flange.
Push the wear ring onto the flange until the
installation tool is fully seated against the
end of the flange. As the wear ring cools, it
will shrink-fit onto the crankshaft flange.
6. Allow the wear ring to cool completely. Then
remove the installation tool.
Page 166
WEAR RING WITH DOUBLE-LIP TEFLON

SEAL (AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION)
The oversize inside diameter lip seal and wear
ring are shipped as an assembly with the seal
installed on the wear ring. For this combination,
the seal and the wear ring are installed as an
assembly. Refer to the crankshaft rear oil seal
installation procedures under Engine
Reassembly in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
section.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Inspection and
Resurfacing
[212 UB]
The flywheel is a design with an integral, nonreplaceable ring gear. If the ring gear teeth are in
good condition, the flywheel surface should be
checked as follows:
1. Inspect the flywheel to determine if it
requires resurfacing. The wear areas should
be measured using a straightedge across
the friction face and a thickness gauge. If the
wear measurement is 0.020 inch
(0.508 mm) or less, the flywheel does NOT
need to be machined when operated against
ceramic clutch facings.
2. Resurface the flywheel as required. To
ensure satisfactory service life, the
maximum amount of material that may be
removed from the flywheel surface is
0.070 inch (1.78 mm).
When resurfacing a flat-style flywheel, it is very

important that the machine shop NOT leave a
step on the friction face outer diameter adjacent
to the clutch locating pilot. There is an undercut
relief in the corner between the friction face and
the clutch locating pilot, and resurfacing must go
up to this relief. If resurfacing is done to a depth
which would eliminate the relief, a new relief must
be cut. Refer to Figure 159.
When attempting to resurface as close to the
clutch locating pilot as possible, keep in mind that
the pilot must not be altered. The pilot controls
the location of the clutch. If the locating pilot is
altered, an imbalance will result.
Some machine shop operations may not have the
tooling and locating equipment necessary for
resurfacing a flat-style flywheel.
159
Figure 159 Flywheel Resurfacing
Page 167
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND
CAMSHAFT BENCH
PROCEDURES
Camshaft Inspection
Auxiliary Shaft Inspection
[212 CV]
The E-Tech auxiliary shaft is identified by three
painted stripes (early production) or three
machined circumferential cuts (later production)
in front of the stamped part number.
INSPECTION
[213 CH]
To optimize camshaft timing for certain engine

models, an offset-type camshaft key
(P/N 54GC29) is used. The offset key is colorcoded (with one end of the key painted white and
the other end painted red) and is installed with
the offset either to the right (cam timing retarded)
or to the left (cam timing advanced). Correct
camshaft key offset installation is dependent
upon engine horsepower ratings.

1. Thoroughly clean the auxiliary shaft.
2. Inspect the auxiliary shaft journals and
splines, and gear teeth and splines for
evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe
wear. If any of these conditions exist,
replace the auxiliary shaft.
3. Make sure the orificed cup plug is in place in
the internal passage at the front of the
auxiliary shaft.
160
Figure 160 Auxiliary Shaft
Some late-production high-horsepower engines

use the offset key, P/N 54GC31.
Make sure that the correct camshaft key and
positioning is used for the applicable engine
model. Engine timing will be adversely affected if
the incorrect key or positioning is used. When
utilizing the offset key, it must be installed with the
proper color facing front as follows:
r
Straight Key P/N 43AX9 Used with

EM7-300 (1750 rpm), E7-310/330,
E7-330/350, E7-355/380, E7-350
(1800 rpm), E7-400 (1800 rpm), E7-454
Red Offset Key P/N 54GC29 Used with

RED facing front for EM7-275 (1750 rpm)
and E7-300 (1700/1800/1950 rpm) effective
January 1998 with engine serial number
series 8A. Also used with RED facing front
for EM7-300 (1750 rpm) and E7-310/330
effective December 8, 1999 with engine
serial number 9Y0870 and implementation
of Step 7 software.
White Offset Key P/N 54GC29 Used

with WHITE facing front for E7-427 (effective
June 1997, with engine serial number
7M1305) and E7-460 (effective June 1997,
with engine serial number 7M3166).
Prior to the offset key tie-ins to the engine serial

numbers listed above, all engine models used the
straight key.
Page 168
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CAMSHAFT GEAR REMOVAL
4. Remove the thrust washer.

161
An extremely tight interference fit holds the cam

gear on the camshaft. Typically, 10 tons of force
is required to remove the gear. When cam gear
removal or installation is required, use the
following procedures.
A considerable amount of force may be

necessary to remove damaged or spun gears.
DO NOT apply more than 25 tons (22.7 metric
tons) of force to gears. Doing so may shatter
the gears and result in severe personal injury.
1. Position two adequate steel plates on the
press to support the camshaft gear. The
plates should have a 4-inch (101.6-mm) hole
cut out in the center when placed side-byside, or similar size v-grooves, to allow
clearance for the shaft journals and greater
support for the gear.
2. Set camshaft, supported by the gear, into
the press.
3. Using a suitable arbor, press the camshaft
out of the camshaft gear.
Figure 161 Camshaft Gear Removal
INSPECTION
Some engines use a straight key while others use
an offset key positioned to the right or left
depending on the engine model. If an offset key is
used, be sure to note the positioning of the key so
that it can be reinstalled in the same position.

1. Thoroughly clean the camshaft (3).
Use magnaflux (PT7190) inspection procedure to

detect cracks.
Make sure there is enough clearance between

the end of the camshaft and the floor while
removing the gear. Do not let the camshaft fall or
strike the floor when pressed from the gear. The
camshaft can be bent easily, and may go
unnoticed. Installing a bent camshaft in the
engine could result in cam bushing failure.
2. Inspect the camshaft lobes and journals for

evidence of cracks, pitting, scoring or severe
wear. If any of these conditions exist,
replace the camshaft.
3. Inspect the camshaft gear (1) and camshaft
captured thrust washer (2) for cracks, pitting,
scoring or adverse wear.
4. Visually inspect the key (4) for signs of
distortion or breakage.
Page 169
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CAMSHAFT GEAR INSTALLATION
The camshaft gear is shrink-fit onto the camshaft.
To install the gear, it must be heated in an oven to
425F (204C). Do not attempt to heat the gear
with a welding torch as this method will not
provide even heating and could cause weakening
of the metal.
An oven is the preferred method for heating the
camshaft gear. However, an industrial grade hot
plate can be used as an alternative to the oven.
When using a hot plate, temperature sticks or a
thermocouple must be used to determine gear
temperature. The hot plate, temperature sticks
and thermocouple are available through any
industrial supply company.
The camshaft gear is a long-life part that should

be reused providing it is not damaged.
When installing the camshaft gear, use only the
heat method procedure below for both new or
used parts. Do not use a press to install the gear.
HEAT METHOD CAMSHAFT GEAR

INSTALLATION
1. Using a suitable contact-type cleaner that
dries rapidly and leaves no residue,
thoroughly clean the camshaft and gear.
The camshaft and gear must be grease- and oilfree to ensure a good shrink-fit.
2. Install the key (4) into the camshaft keyway.
It may be necessary to tap the key with a
soft metal hammer to ensure proper seating
of the key.
Some engines use a straight key while others use

an offset key positioned to the right or left
depending on the engine model. If an offset key is
used, be sure the key is properly positioned for
the engine model. Refer to the appropriate MACK
Engine Tune-up Specifications for the correct key
offset.
3. Install a new camshaft captured thrust
washer (2) on the camshaft.
Page 170
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
162
Figure 162 Camshaft Assembly Components

1. Camshaft Gear
2. Camshaft Captured Thrust Washer
3. Camshaft
4. Key
Page 171
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Set the camshaft close to the oven in which
the camshaft gear will be heated. It should
be set vertically on the floor with the front of
the shaft up. Secure the shaft so it cannot
wobble or fall over as the gear is being
installed.
5. Heat the camshaft gear to 425F (204C) in
an oven (preferred an old kitchen oven is
sufficient) or on an industrial grade hot plate
used in combination with temperaturesensing equipment described earlier.
Adequate heating will require one to two
hours. Do not heat the gear for more than
two hours nor exceed 425F (204C) as heat
treatment may be affected.
DO NOT attempt to heat the gear with a torch.

This method will only provide localized heating,
will not permit proper expansion and may affect
heat treatment of the gear.
6. Remove the gear from the oven and position
it on the camshaft with the keyway aligned
with the key and the timing marks facing up
(Figure 163).
163
Wear protective gloves when handling the

heated gear.
7. Using a quick, steady motion, push
downward on the gear until the gear is fully
seated against the cam shoulder surface.
The heat-expanded gear bore will begin to

transfer heat to the camshaft as soon as contact
between the gear and shaft is made. Therefore, it
is absolutely necessary that the gear be installed
in one rapid motion to the fully seated position.
If the gear is allowed to stop on the camshaft
before it is fully seated, it will become immovable.
If this occurs, DO NOT press gear onto the
camshaft. Instead, remove gear with a press and
thoroughly inspect the gear bore, camshaft
journal and key. If there is no scoring, galling or
tearing, repeat the installation procedure using
the removed components. If damage is minimal,
the components can and must be repaired and
then reinstalled. If the damage is significant, the
components must be replaced.
8. Allow the gear to cool.
9. When the gear is fully seated, there should
be 0.0030.012 inch (0.0760.31 mm)
clearance between the rear face of the gear
and the thrust washer when measured with
a feeler gauge.
Figure 163 Camshaft Gear Installation, Heat Method
Page 172
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CONNECTING ROD AND
PISTON BENCH PROCEDURES
Connecting Rod Inspection and
Reconditioning
[212 LP]
Each connecting rod assembly has two alignment

sleeves (3), one sleeve in each capscrew hole of
the rod cap (1) to locate and align the cap and rod
thrust faces. These sleeves provide the best
alignment when sleeve gaps are positioned at a
location approximately 90 degrees to the tongue
or groove (2). The sleeve gaps must not be in line
with the tongue or groove.
165
The connecting rod and cap design incorporates
alignment sleeves. The caps can be identified by
the flat, machined bottom shown in Figure 164.
The connecting rod part number is forged into the
I-beam of the rod.
164
Figure 165 Connecting Rod with Alignment Sleeves

1. Rod Cap
2. Bearing Insert
3. Alignment Sleeve
It is essential to closely control the weight of

reciprocating parts. Connecting rods fall into two
weight classes, M1 or M2. Initially, the classes
were identified by the respective M number
(M1 or M2) stamped onto the connecting rod
bearing cap. Now, however, only the M1 rod
carries the weight class identification stamped on
the rod cap. The M2 connecting rod is no longer
stamped with the weight class identifier.
When installing a single rod, or less than a full
set, examine the removed rod for part number
and M number. Installing parts with the same
weight class is preferred.
Figure 164 Connecting Rod Identification
1. Connecting Rod
2. Rod Cap Machined

Surface
Connecting rods can be weighed to ensure using

the proper weight class. Connecting rod weights
for each engine, within each weight class, should
not vary by more than 0.46 ounce (13.04 grams).
The maximum weight difference between the
heaviest possible M2 rod and the lightest
possible M1 rod is 0.83 ounce (23.53 grams).
Page 173
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
r
Piston Pin Bushing Remover/Installer

J 37717
Piston Pin Burnishing Broach J 37718
Connecting Rod Fixture 945-6041
166
INSPECTION
r
Inspect the connecting rods for nicks,

cracks, signs of overheating, or bends or
twisting that can cause rod failure.
Inspect bolt holes for elongation or pulled

threads.
Check mating surfaces between the rod and

cap for correct fit.
Inspect the crankshaft journal bearing

surface and wrist pin bushing.
If any of the above parts are suspected of being

faulty, replace the connecting rod.
If it is determined that the condition of any part or

component is questionable or is at the limit of
tolerance, replace it. If the questionable part or
component is reused, it may fail or become out of
tolerance after a short time in operation. It is costefficient to replace components when rebuilding.
Figure 166 Wrist Pin Bushing Removal
Wrist Pin Bushing Installation
Use genuine MACK replacement parts.
WRIST PIN BUSHING REPLACEMENT

If the wrist pin bushing is found to be out of
tolerance, it should be replaced.
To replace the bushing:
The wrist pin bushing has a lubrication hole

through it. This hole MUST be aligned with the
rifle-drilled hole in the rod to allow oil flow to the
wrist pin. If the holes are not aligned, wrist pin,
piston, and connecting rod failure will result.
1. Position the rod and wrist pin bushing
remover/installer J 37717 in a press, and
press the new bushing into the rod.
1. Position the rod in a press with the piston pin

bushing remover/installer J 37717 inserted
into the wrist pin bushing.
2. Align the hole in the bushing with the rifledrilled hole in the rod.
2. Press the bushing out of the rod.
3. Position the rod assembly in a press with

wrist pin bushing burnishing broach J 37718.
Use care not to twist or bend the connecting rod

while pressing the bushing.
Page 174
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CONNECTING ROD ALIGNMENT CHECK
167
1. Position the connecting rod in a connecting

rod fixture, Sweeney 945-6041, or
equivalent. Use the appropriate mandrel and
plunger extension for the engine.
168
Figure 167 Burnishing Wrist Pin Bushing
4. Using a suitable lubricant, press the broach

through the bushing to expand the bushing.
Figure 168 Connecting Rod Fixture
Make certain that the bushing is fully expanded

for a tight fit in the connecting rod bore or it will
loosen, rotate and fail.
2. Check the rod for twist or bend exceeding

the following specifications. Specified
distances are center-to-center.
Use care not to twist or bend the connecting rod

while pressing the broach through the bushing.
Maximum twist of the connecting rod

within 12 inches (30.5 cm) is 0.010 inch
(0.254 mm).
5. Clean all shavings from the rifle-drilled hole

in the rod.
Maximum bend of the connecting rod

within 12 inches (30.5 cm) is 0.004 inch
(0.102 mm).
6. Check the alignment of the connecting rod

for twist or bend.
Page 175
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Piston Inspection and Cleaning
DISASSEMBLY
[212 NP]
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. Using piston ring expander PT6587, remove

the piston rings.
169
The E-Tech engine uses a two-piece piston

design with the crown made from forged steel
and the skirt from cast aluminum. The forged
steel crown incorporates two compression ring
grooves and one oil ring groove. An oil
accumulator relief is machined into the lower half
of the third ring land face, 360 degrees around
the piston circumference.
A plasma-faced, keystone-type compression ring
is used in the top groove of the crown and a
tapered chrome, rectangular-type compression
ring is used in the second groove. The oil control
ring is located in the third groove, nearest the
wrist pin bore.
Early-production piston crowns were fitted with
steel-backed bronze bushings in the wrist pin
bores. A redesign of the piston crown for current
production eliminates the bushings from the
bores. This change was phased into production
beginning July 1999.
The wrist pin bore pedestal of the crown and the
piston skirt are stamped FRONT, and must be
installed facing the front of engine.
Figure 169 Piston Ring Removal
A radius is cut in the lower edge of the piston skirt

to provide clearance for the piston cooling nozzle.
The piston must be installed with the word
FRONT facing the front of engine.
2. Thoroughly clean the piston ring grooves,

combustion bowl area and snap ring
grooves. All carbon must be removed.
Carbon left in the piston ring grooves will
reduce ring clearance and prevent
replacement rings from seating properly.

r
Piston Ring Expander PT6587
Keystone Ring Groove Gauge J 29510
Be sure that the cleaning solvent is approved for

steel and aluminum. Incompatible solvents may
cause damage to the pistons or skirts.
3. Clean the pistons with the approved solution
and a brass brush. Take care to avoid
damaging the pistons while cleaning.
Page 176
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION
KEYSTONE RING GROOVE CHECK
Inspect the piston ring grooves, lands, piston skirt

and combustion bowl for wear, scuffing, cracks or
blow-by. Pistons are NOT repairable. Discard the
piston if it is damaged.

Keystone piston-ring groove gauge J 29510
consists of two 0.120-inch (3.048 mm) diameter
pins (1) connected at the ends by two springs (2).
170
Do not stamp or engrave on TOP of the piston.

Doing so will reduce piston life.
To ensure that pistons are reinstalled in the same
cylinders, the pistons must be tagged with the
corresponding cylinder number when removed
during disassembly.
Piston Ring Replacement

[212 NV]
Before installing piston rings, check the keystone

ring groove wear and ring end gap.
1. Place a piston ring in the cylinder sleeve.
Push it down into the sleeve with an inverted
piston to ensure that it is positioned squarely
in the sleeve.
2. Using thickness gauges, check the ring end
gap. Refer to Fits and Limits in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for end gap
tolerance. All rings to be used should be
checked in this manner.
Figure 170 Ring Groove Gauge

1. Pins
Do not file or grind chrome-plated piston rings.

This may cause the chrome to flake, resulting in
ring failure.
2. Springs
1. Place the pins of the keystone piston ring

groove gauge J 29510 opposite each other
in the groove to be measured. The pins will
be held in position by the springs.
Page 177
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Using a four- to five-inch micrometer,
measure the distance between the outer
edges of the two parallel pins. Check each
compression ring groove in two locations:
parallel and perpendicular to the wrist pin
bore. Record both measurements.
5. Check the oil control ring as follows:
3. Compare readings with the tolerances listed

171
a.
Using a thickness gauge, check for

excessive wear of the oil control ring
groove side clearance (1). Position a
new oil control ring in the groove and
insert a thickness gauge between the
ring and upper land of the groove.
b.
Record the measurement and compare

the reading with the tolerance listed
For a new ring and piston, the oil ring side

clearance is 0.00160.0030 inch
(0.04060.0762 mm). For an old ring and piston,
the clearance should NOT exceed 0.0045 inch
(0.1143 mm).
6. Perform step 5 on each piston.
172
Figure 171 Ring Groove Wear Measurement
4. Perform steps 1, 2 and 3 on each piston.

Figure 172 Side Clearance Measurement

1. Ring Groove Side Clearance
Page 178
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
RING INSTALLATION
Identification markings on the rings should face

the piston top. The keystone ring goes in the top
ring groove.
2. Stagger the piston rings so that no ring gap

is directly over the wrist pin bore, and no ring
end gaps are aligned over each other
(Figure 174).
174
Follow the directions on each piston ring packet.

1. To prevent distortion, use the proper size
piston ring expander (PT6587) to place rings
in the piston grooves.
173
Figure 174 Ring Gap Locations
Figure 173 Piston Ring Expander PT6587
Page 179
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Assembling Connecting Rod to
Piston
175
[212 LP & NP]

1. Install a retaining snap ring in one of the
wrist pin retaining grooves.
2. Position the connecting rod in the piston
assembly. Make sure that the side of the rod
marked FRONT is properly aligned with the
FRONT markings on the piston crown and
skirt.
The current piston skirt, part No. 240GC590BM,

is symmetrical in design, having piston cooling
nozzle clearance cutouts on both the right and
left sides. Although the word FRONT still
appears at the bottom, the symmetrical design
allows the skirt to be assembled to the piston
crown in either direction.
Figure 175 Piston Markings
Be sure that the piston and rod assemblies are

clearly marked with the cylinder location. They
must be returned to same cylinder from which
they were removed.
3. Using a generous amount of clean engine

oil, push the piston wrist pin into the wrist pin
bore, aligning the two piston sections and
the connecting rod.
Early-production piston crowns were fitted with

steel-backed bronze bushings in the wrist pin
bores. A redesign of the piston crown for current
production eliminates the bushings from the
bores. This change was phased into production
beginning July 1999.
4. Secure the pin in position by inserting a
snap ring in the remaining piston snap ring
groove.
5. Place the assembled piston in a clean
location until it is needed for installation into
the engine cylinder sleeve.
6. Perform steps 1 through 5 on the remaining
pistons.
Page 180
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL
[213 EV]
Inlet and Exhaust Valve Removal
Special Tools Required
GENERAL INFORMATION
Valve Spring Compressor J 43887 (for

valves with tip-end rotators)
Valve Spring Compressor J 29294-B (for

valves with bottom rotators)
Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C
E7 Cutter Head J 37719
Depth Gauge J 26948
Valve Guide Remover J 37482
Valve Guide Installer J 37809
Valve Guide Reamer J 37481
Current-production engines use a tip-end valve

rotator (P/N 722GC314) as shown in Figure 176.
The tip-end rotator is installed at the top of the
valve spring, and replaces the bottom rotator
which was used on early-production engines.
With the tip-end valve rotators, there is a greater
amount of valve key protrusion above the rotator
when compared with the key protrusion above
the valve spring retainer washers on earlyproduction engines. The top of the valve keys are
practically flush with the top of the valve retainer
washers. The tip-end rotator, however, has an
undercut on top, so the top of the key protrudes
approximately 3/32-inch as shown in Figure 177.
Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391
Collet PT6390-4
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore HT77136
Valve Insert Installer Set J 38586
Driver Handle J 8092
Prussian Blue
Model MST 50 Universal Spring Tester

J 22738-02
Injection Nozzle Sleeve Extractor J 29880
Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit PT6575
Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch) PT6570-11
Torque Wrench J 24407
Slide Hammer J 2619-01
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer J 29296
Injection Nozzle Sleeve Installer J 29297
Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer

(13/16-inch cup plugs) J 34684
Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer

(1-1/16 inch cup plugs) J 34687
Valve Seal Installer J 42453
Valve Stem Seal Remover J 39460
[213 NB]
Do not clean either type (bottom or tip-end) of

rotators in a hot tank or use any type of cleaning
method which could introduce contaminants to
the rotator internal parts or damage the tip-end
rotator insert.
Page 181
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
176
Figure 176 Valve Spring, Rotator and Valve Seat Insert Combinations
Page 182
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
177
Figure 177 Valve Key Protrusion
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
178

1. Attach the valve spring compressor to the
cylinder head. Use spring compressor
J 43887 for valves with tip-end rotators or
J 29294-B for valves with bottom rotators.
2. Rest tool compression forks (4) on top of the
upper washer (3) and center the forks above
the valve.
3. Depress the tool handle until the valve
spring is compressed. Remove the valve
spring washer keys (2) using a magnet (1).
Valve Stem Seals The E-Tech engine

valve stem seals are easily identified by the
steel retainer band around the top of the
seal lip. The guides have three sharp ridges
machined into the upper outside diameter
surface (refer to Figure 179) for excellent
seal-to-guide retention. The following part
numbers apply:
r
Valve stem seal P/N 446GC328
Valve guide P/N 714GB3103
Valve spring compressor, J 43887 or J 29294-B,

must be repositioned for each series of valves
(two inlet and two exhaust per cylinder). Drilled
and tapped holes are provided for each cylinder.
Figure 178 Valve Spring Keeper Removal

1. Magnet
2. Valve Spring Washer
Keys
3. Upper Washer
4. Tool Compression Forks
Page 183
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
179
Figure 179 Valve Stem Seal
4. With the valve spring keepers removed,

remove the upper washer or tip-end rotator,
valve spring, oil seal, lower washer
(Roto-Coil) if so equipped, and valve. Refer
to Figure 176.
Page 184
After removing the valve springs, removal of the

existing valve stem seals can be accomplished
easily and quickly by using the J 39460 Valve
Stem Seal Removal tool. Failure to use this tool
could make seal removal more difficult, and could
result in damage to the outside diameter of the
valve guides.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Head Inspection
Fire Ring Groove Cutting

GENERAL INFORMATION
Pressure Test It is recommended that cylinder

heads be pressurized and checked for internal
cracks and leaks. Refer to Cylinder Head and
Cylinder Block Leak Test procedures in the
TROUBLESHOOTING section.
Check the cylinder head deck surface for
warping, pitting or other imperfections. Deck
surface flatness must not vary more than
0.0015 inch (0.0381 mm) over 18 inches
(45.7 cm) of surface area. Resurface or replace
as necessary.
Fire ring grooves are located in the machined flat

surface (deck) of the cylinder head that mates
with the engine block. This design provides a
locking groove for the fire ring to seat, as well as
a positive-combustion pressure seal.
After resurfacing the cylinder head deck, it is
necessary to re-establish the fire ring groove
depth using the fire ring groove cutter J 29600-C.
180
When resurfacing, remove a minimum amount of

material from the deck to obtain a flat, uniform
surface. Standard head height is
6.3976.391 inches (162.483162.310 mm). A
maximum of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) of material
may be removed, making the minimum height of
a resurfaced head 6.381 inches (162.077 mm).
When the deck is resurfaced, fire ring groove and

valve seat insert dimensions must be reestablished following the procedure in Fire Ring
Groove Cutting.
Figure 180 Fire Ring Groove Cutter J 29600-C

1. Alignment Fixture
2. Hold-Down Capscrews
3. Spacers
4. Washers
5. Cutter Head (J 37719)

6. Wing Nuts
7. Thickness Gauges
8. Cutter Base
Page 185
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
GROOVE CUTTING PROCEDURE
182
1. Place the cutter base on the cylinder head.

Insert the hold-down capscrews into the
appropriate mounting holes (per application)
until the hold-down capscrews bottom out in
the mounting holes. Refer to Figure 181.
181
Figure 181 Cutter Base Alignment

1. Cutter Base
2. Cylinder Head
2. Position the cylinder head so the threaded

section of the hold-down capscrews can be
reached as shown in Figure 182. Install the
spacer, washer and wing nut. Lightly tighten
the wing nut.
The cutter base must be free to move.
Page 186
Figure 182 Fastening Cutter Base

1. Wing Nut
2. Washer
3. Spacer
3. Place the alignment fixture over the cutter

base as shown in Figure 183 to ensure
proper positioning. With the fixture in place,
tighten wing nuts on the hold-down
capscrews. Remove the alignment fixture.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Adjust the cutter head J 37719 until it
bottoms out on the deck surface of the
existing fire ring groove. Tighten the cutter
head in this position and remove the two
thickness gauges.
183
184
Figure 183 Alignment Fixture Placement

1. Alignment Fixture
2. Cutter Base
Figure 184 Setting Cutter Depth
The desired finished fire ring groove depth is

0.008 inch (0.203 mm).
4. Install the cutter head J 37719 (1) on the
cutter base (4) as shown in Figure 184.
a.
If a fire ring groove (3) is visible, check

the existing fire ring groove depth
dimension with depth gauge J 26948.
The difference between 0.008 inch and
the actual remaining depth of fire ring
groove is the amount to cut. Insert two
appropriate thickness gauges (2)
between the cutter head (1) and base
(4).
b.
If a fire ring groove (3) is not visible,

insert two 0.008-inch thickness gauges
(2) between the cutter head (1) and
base (4).

2. Thickness Gauges
3. Fire Ring Groove

4. Cutter Base
6. Install a socket (1) and T-handle (2) on the

cutter head (3) as shown in Figure 185.
Using the T-handle, rotate the cutter head in
a clockwise direction only, applying an even
downward pressure to cut the fire ring
groove.
Page 187
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Guide Replacement
185
[213 EP]
INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE GUIDE
DIMENSIONS
Figure 185 Cutting Ring Groove

1. Socket
2. T-Handle
7. After the groove is cut, remove the cutter

head and base from the cylinder head.
8. Use a honing stone to remove any burrs
around the fire ring groove.
9. Check the fire ring groove depth with depth
gauge J 26948 to verify that the groove
depth meets specification. If the groove
depth does not meet specification, recut as
necessary.
10. Repeat the above procedure to cut each fire
ring groove.
To ensure proper groove depth, always adjust the

cutting tool height when cutting the next groove.
Page 188
Valve guide ID (3) 3/8 inch (9.53 mm)
Top end of guide to valve spring seat (4)

0.959 0.040 inch (24.36 1.02 mm)
Valve guide extension, fire deck to top of

guide (5) 5.24 0.03 inch
(133.10 0.76 mm)
Valve guide bore in head (6)

0.6870.686 inch (17.45017.424 mm)
Valve guide OD (7) 0.68860.6881 inch

(17.490417.4777 mm)
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
186
187
Figure 186 Valve Guide Dimensions

1. Exhaust Valve Guide
2. Inlet Valve Guide
3. Valve Guide ID
4. Top End of Guide to
Valve Spring Seat
5. Valve Guide Extension,

Fire Deck to Top of
Guide
6. Valve Guide Bore in
Head
7. Valve Guide OD
Figure 187 Measuring Valve Guide Bore

1. Bore Gauge
2. Valve Guide Bore
2. Use a depth gauge to check valve guide

extension. Refer to Figure 188.
188
INSPECTION
Worn valve guides may result in poor valve-toseat contact, valve damage or oil consumption.
1. Inspect the valve guides for wear, damage,
cracks and looseness. Use a small bore
gauge (1) to obtain an accurate valve guide
bore (2) measurement. Refer to Figure 187.
Figure 188 Checking Valve Guide Extension
Page 189
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Press out the old valve guides from the
cylinder head.
When reconditioning the cylinder head, it is
recommended that all valve guides be replaced.
3. Check the valve guide bore in the cylinder

head for wear, cracks or other damage.
Clean the surfaces thoroughly and check the
ID measurement.
VALVE GUIDE REMOVAL

VALVE GUIDE INSTALLATION
Clean the exhaust valve guide OD (shoulder)

before removal. With the guide removed, use a
rotary brush to clean the exhaust valve guide
bore and prevent scoring.
1. Insert valve guide remover J 37482 (1) into
the valve guide from the deck side of the
cylinder head (2).
189
1. Insert a new valve guide into the valve guide

installer J 37809.
2. Oil the OD of the guide before installation.
3. Using tool J 37809, press the guide into the
top of the cylinder head.
4. Using the depth gauge, check the extension
of the guide from the valve spring seat to the
top end of the guide. Refer back to
Figure 188.
5. Using valve guide reamer J 37481 (1), ream
the valve guide (2) to dimension as shown in
Figure 190.
190
Figure 189 Valve Guide Remover J 37482

Figure 190 Reaming Valve Guide
1. Valve Guide Remover
J 37482
Page 190
2. Cylinder Head
1. Valve Guide Reamer
J 37481
2. Valve Guide
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
6. Repeat steps 1 through 5 to install the
remaining valve guides.
191
7. Thoroughly clean all metal debris from the

valve guides and the surrounding area.
8. Install the valves in the cylinder head and
check for binding, looseness and other
conditions that may result in premature
valve or valve guide failure.
Valve Seat Insert Replacement

[213 FB]
INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE SEAT INSERT
DIMENSIONS
r
Valve seat (3) insert face angle (1)
Inlet: 20 30 15
Exhaust: 30 0/+ 30
Valve seat insert diameter (2)
Inlet: 1.8321.831 inches

(46.53346.507 mm)
Exhaust: 1.6931.691 inches

(43.00242.951 mm)
Figure 191 Valve Seat Insert Dimensions

1. Valve Seat Insert Face
Angle
2. Valve Seat Insert
Diameter
3. Valve Seat
4. Valve Seat Width
INSPECTION
Visually inspect the valve seat inserts for
looseness, cracks or other conditions that may
result in improper operation. Replace seats as
necessary.
Valve seat width (4) 0.066 0.015 inch

(1.676 0.381 mm)
Page 191
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
VALVE SEAT INSERT REMOVAL
Valve seat extractor kit PT6391 and collet
PT6390-4 are used to remove the inlet and
exhaust seat inserts. Refer to Figure 192.
Collet PT6390-4 is not included in the basic kit

PT6391.
192
Figure 192 Valve Seat Extractor Kit PT6391

1. Grinding Wheels
2. T-Handle and Shaft Assembly
3. Collet
4. Allen Wrench
5. Lifting Bridge
1. Using depth measurement tool (1), measure

the distance from the cylinder head surface
(2) to the point on insert where the groove
will be ground as shown in Figure 193.
Page 192
6. Grinder Base
7. Grinder
8. Wrenches
9. Dressing Stone
This point should be approximately 0.060 inch

(1.524 mm) below any angular face on the valve
seat insert.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
193
Use care not to damage any machined surface of

the cylinder head.
5. Attach the collet to the T-handle and shaft
assembly.
6. Position the collet in the valve seat insert so
ridge of the collet will be inside the groove.
Turn the T-handle to fully expand the collet.
7. Position lifting bridge (3) under the crank
handle (2) as shown in Figure 195. Turn the
crank handle clockwise to remove the insert.
Figure 193 Valve Insert Depth Measurement
1. Depth Measurement Tool
2. Cylinder Head
3. Groove
8. Release insert from the collet (4) by slightly

turning the T-handle (1).
195
2. Install grinding wheel (2) into the grinder (4)

and set depth of the grinder base (1) to the
dimension found in the preceding step.
3. Secure the base to grinder by tightening the
hex-head screw (3).
194
Figure 194 Setting Depth of Grinder

1. Grinder Base
2. Grinding Wheel
3. Hex-Head Screw
4. Grinder
Figure 195 Removing Valve Insert
4. Grind a groove around the inside

circumference of the valve seat insert. This
groove should be approximately 0.030 inch
(0.762 mm) deep.
1. T-Handle
2. Crank Handle
3. Lifting Bridge
4. Collet
Page 193
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
VALVE SEAT INSERT COUNTERBORE
r
Valve seat counterbore depth (3):
Exhaust: 0.3760.372 inch

(9.559.449 mm)
Inlet: 0.3640.360 inch

(9.2469.144 mm)
INSPECTION
1. With the valve seat insert removed from the
cylinder head, clean the surface thoroughly
with a wire brush.
2. Check the surface finish for smoothness.
Check the counterbore diameter
(Figure 197) with an inside diameter
micrometer. Compare to specification.
197
Inlet valve seat insert counterbore diameter

(4): 1.82951.8285 inches
(46.469346.4439 mm)
Exhaust valve seat counterbore diameter

(5): 1.68851.6875 inches
(42.887942.8625 mm)
196
Figure 197 Checking Counterbore Dimensions

1. Inside Diameter
Micrometer
Figure 196 Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Dimensions

1. Exhaust Valve Guide
2. Inlet Valve Guide
3. Valve Seat Counterbore
Depth
Page 194
4. Inlet Valve Seat Insert

Counterbore Diameter
5. Exhaust Valve Seat
Counterbore Diameter
2. Cylinder Head
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
VALVE SEAT INSERT INSTALLATION
Oversize inlet and exhaust valve seat inserts are

available in 0.005, 0.015, 0.031, 0.047 and
0.062 inch sizes if the counterbore requires
machining.
1. If required, machine the inlet and exhaust
valve seat insert counterbores using tool
HT77136.
2. Position the valve seat insert (1) over the
corresponding counterbore as shown in
Figure 198. Install the inserts using valve
seat insert installation set J 38586 (2). Use
driver handle J 8092 (3) to drive the valve
seat insert into the counterbore.
198
3. Grind the inlet/exhaust valve seat inserts to

specification.
r
Inlet valve inserts: 20 30 15 angle
Exhaust valve inserts: 30 0/+30
Always use 30-degree valves with 30-degree

valve inserts and 20-degree valves with
20-degree valve inserts. Excessive wear and
possible failure will result if 30-degree parts are
matched with 20-degree parts.
If valve seat insert widths exceed specifications

when grinding the inserts, use a 15-degree angle
grinding stone to obtain the correct width.
4. After grinding, thoroughly clean the valve
seat insert.
5. Determine the concentricity of each valve
seat insert relative to the valve guide. Valve
seat runout is to be held within 0.002 inch
(0.051 mm) FIM (Full Indicator Movement),
with finished valve guide ID measurements
made from snug-fitting arbor (1) and
through-mounted into finished valve guides
(2) as shown in Figure 199.
Figure 198 Valve Seat Insert Installation

1. Valve Seat Insert
2. J 38586
3. J 8092
Page 195
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Spring Inspection
199
[213 MB]
1. Visually inspect the inside surfaces of the
spring coils. Also, feel the inside surfaces of
each spring for any indication of roughness
or grooving. If either of these conditions
exist, replace the spring.
2. Check springs on the universal spring tester
J 22738-02 as shown in Figure 200. With
springs compressed to 1.5 inches
(38.1 mm), the pressure should be within
specification, 190210 lb (86.295.3 kg).
If spring pressure does not meet specification,

replace the spring.
200
Figure 199 Checking Valve Seat Runout

1. Arbor
2. Valve Guides
6. After checking runout, determine the

position of contact between the valve and
valve seat insert. Apply a dab of Prussian
Blue to the valve face at four points,
90 degrees apart.
7. Lower stem of the valve into the valve guide
and allow the valve face to rest on the seat
insert. Rotate the valve 90 degrees on the
insert. Carefully remove the valve without
making contact with the valve face. Properly
ground inserts should show a full pattern of
contact on the insert.
Thoroughly clean the cylinder head after

checking the valve seat inserts and before
installing the valves.
Figure 200 Checking Valve Spring Pressure

1. Spring Tester J 22738-02
Page 196
2. Valve Spring
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert
Replacement
[213 GB]
The injection nozzle holder insert is machined to
provide a press-fit in the cylinder head.
1. Clean the nozzle insert bore in the cylinder
head and the contact surfaces with Loctite
Primer T.
2. Apply Loctite 620 to the cylinder head and
insert surfaces. Refer to Figure 202.
202
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
1. To remove the injection nozzle holder insert,
tap the ID with a 24 mm -3 tap to a depth of
approximately 1-1/2 inches.
2. Install nozzle sleeve (insert) puller J 42678
(2) to slide hammer J 2619-01 (1) or
equivalent as shown in Figure 201.
3. Thread the puller into the end of the nozzle
holder insert and use the slide hammer to
remove the insert.
201
Figure 202 Fuel-Injection Nozzle Insert
Figure 201 Removing Injection Nozzle Holder Insert

1. Slide Hammer J 2619-01
2. Sleeve Puller J 42678
Page 197
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Install the insert in the cylinder head with the
indexing notch aligned in direction of the
high-pressure fuel line hole in the head.
4. Install the alignment pin and using nozzle
insert installer J 42595, drive the insert into
the cylinder head until it bottoms on the
lower counterbore face. Refer to Figure 203
and Figure 204.
203
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Replacement

[213 FH]
Valve yoke guide pins are located between each
set of inlet and exhaust valve guides on engines
produced before March 2, 2000. Beginning with
March 2, 2000 production (engine serial
No. 0D0120), valve yoke guide pins are located
only between each set of exhaust valve guides
since these engines use pinless valve yokes to
actuate the inlet valves.
INSPECTION
Inspect the valve yoke guide pin surface for
cracks or other damage. Also check the pin
diameter and installed height.
REMOVAL PROCEDURE
Remove a broken pin as follows:
Figure 203 Nozzle Sleeve (Insert) Installer

204
Due to the hardness of the valve yoke guide pins,

drilling and tapping must be done slowly with
sharp tools and with plenty of lubrication.
1. Center punch the broken section of the pin
in the cylinder head prior to drilling.
The punch mark must be close to the center of

the broken pin to control the drilling operation.
2. Using a drill press, drill a 13/64-inch pilot
hole completely through the broken section
of the yoke pin.
Figure 204 Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Installation

1. Nozzle Sleeve Installer J
42595
2. Alignment Pin
A drill press is strongly recommended to keep the

drilled hole straight with the yoke pin hole in the
cylinder head. Use care when drilling to feel
when the drill bit passes through the yoke pin and
contacts the cylinder head. Stop drilling at that
point to avoid drilling through the head and into
the water jacket.
3. Drill a 5/16-inch hole completely through the
broken section of the yoke pin.
Page 198
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Tap the broken yoke pin as deep as possible
using a 3/8-inch NC starter tap and cutting
oil. Clean out the cutting chips using
compressed air.
5. Repeat the above step using a 3/8-inch NC
bottom tap. Again, clean out the cutting
chips using compressed air.
If a new valve yoke guide pin is required, apply
Loctite 635 to the pin and use guide pin installer
J 29296 to drive the pin into the cylinder head.
The guide pin will be at the correct height when
tool bottoms on the cylinder head. Refer to
Figure 206.
206
6. Using a slide hammer fitted with a 3/8-inch

NC extractor, remove the broken yoke pin
from the cylinder head (Figure 205).
Thread the slide-hammer extractor as deep as

possible into the threaded yoke pin. Failure to
install the extractor deep enough will cause the
yoke pin to break again.
7. Clean out any remaining chips with
compressed air and inspect the yoke pin
hole in the cylinder head for drilling or
tapping damage.
205
Figure 206 Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installation

1. Valve Yoke Guide Pin
2. J 29296
Cylinder Head Cup Plug

Replacement
[213 FP]
The cylinder head has two different size cup
plugs. Both sizes are installed using the following
procedure:
1. Clean the cup bore thoroughly.
2. Using Loctite 277 sealer, or equivalent,
apply the sealer to the cup plug and plug
bore in the head.
Figure 205 Valve Yoke Guide Pin Removal

1. Extractor Lock (Part of PT6570-11)
Page 199
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Install cup plugs in the cylinder head, using
the appropriate cylinder head core plug
installer, J 34684 for 13/16-inch (20.64 mm)
cup plugs, and J 34687 for 1-1/16 inch
(26.99 mm) cup plugs. Refer to Figure 207.
Cup plug should be installed flush with the

cylinder head machined surface to 0.020 inch
(0.508 mm) below the surface.
207
Cylinder Head Pipe Plug

Replacement
GENERAL INFORMATION
The 3/4-inch cylinder head pipe plugs sealed with
a teflon-based thread sealer may loosen and
result in a coolant leak after initial installation.
Beginning April 1, 1999 (engine serial number
series 9F), 3/4-inch pipe plugs having a
preapplied encapsulated epoxy sealant were
phased into engine production. With the epoxy
sealer, the pipe plugs are locked into place,
making them immovable when normal loosening/
tightening methods are used. Should it become
necessary to remove a pipe plug, the following
procedure should be used.
If a cylinder head has been placed in a hot

chemical tank for cleaning and degreasing, the
pipe plugs must be checked for looseness. If a
plug is found to be loose, the epoxy seal has
been broken, making it necessary to remove the
plug, clean the plug and cylinder head threads
with Loctite Primer T and reseal the threads with
Loctite 277.
If coolant leaks at the cylinder head pipe plugs
are encountered on engines manufactured prior
to engine serial number series 9F, the pipe plugs
must be removed, cleaned and reinstalled
following the procedures below.
REPLACEMENT (3/4-INCH PLUGS)

1. Heat the pipe plug to 400F (205C) with a
torch.
Figure 207 Cylinder Head Cup Plug Installation
1. Cup Plug
2. Cup Plug Installer
2. With the pipe plug heated sufficiently,

remove the plug from the cylinder head.
3. Remove the epoxy sealant from the threads
on both the plug and in the cylinder head.
4. Clean the plug and cylinder head threads
with Loctite Primer T.
5. Apply Loctite 277 sealant to the plug and
cylinder head threads.
6. Install the plugs and tighten to the specified
Page 200
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REPLACEMENT (1/8-, 1/16-INCH PLUGS)
1. If reusing a pipe plug, the threads on the
plug and in the cylinder head must be
thoroughly cleaned and dried.
2. Apply dry pipe thread sealant to the pipe
plug and plug bore in the cylinder head.
3. Install a 1/8-inch NPT pipe plug in the fuel

passage at the top front location of the front
cylinder head. Tighten the plug to the
specified torque, 6 lb-ft (8 Nm).
4. Install a 1/16-inch NPT pipe plug in each end
of the cylinder head. Tighten the plugs to the
specification.
208
Figure 208 Cylinder Head Pipe Plug Locations

1. 1-1/16-inch Cup Plug
2. 1/16-inch NPT Plug

5. 13/16-inch Cup Plug
Page 201
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Replacement
[213 NB]
Visually inspect valves for cracks, pits or other

conditions that may cause improper operation.
Check valve seat angle. Also check stem length,
diameter and condition.
209
INSPECTION
Figure 209 Valve Dimensions

1. Inlet Valve
2. Pyromet Exhaust Valve
3. Seat Angle: 20 Inlet, 30 Exhaust
Page 202
4. Minimum After Grinding: 0.130 inch (Inlet), 0.100 inch

(Exhaust)
5. One Stem Groove
6. Two Stem Grooves
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE
IDENTIFICATION
To permit positive identification, exhaust valve
has two stem grooves and inlet valve has one
stem groove in addition to the valve spring keeper
groove.
With the new, more effective valve stem seals

(P/N 446GC328), pre-lubing the seals and valve
stems during installation is extremely important.
Perform the following:
The valves are also identified by the letter J

(20-degree inlet), and letters EX (exhaust), on
the bottom face of the valve head. Refer to
Figure 210 for an illustration of the inlet valve
identification.
Valve Stem-to-Guide If valves are

removed, lubricate the inside diameter of the
valve guides by using a bottle brush coated
with Dow Corning BR2 Plus multipurpose
grease. This is particularly important when
both the valves and the valve guides are
new. With an on-engine seal replacement,
pre-lube the valve stems with clean engine
oil while moving the valve up and down,
prior to installation of the valve spring.
Valve Stem-to-Seal Lip The inside

diameter of the seal lip and outside diameter
of the valve stem should be well-lubricated
with clean engine oil when installing the seal
over the valve stem.
210
Figure 210 20-Degree Intake Valve Identification
VALVE INSTALLATION
The inlet and exhaust valve head diameters are

nearly the same size. It is important, therefore,
that extra care be taken when installing these
valves.
It is essential that the J 42453 Valve Stem Seal

Installation tool be used to install the seals. This
tool bottoms on the cylinder head rocker arm
mounting bracket surface when the seal is
installed to the proper depth on the valve guide.
Using any non-bottoming type seal driver (such
as a socket) may result in distorting the top
surface of the seal casing which permanently
distorts the seal lip and prevents proper sealing. It
can also result in the top rubber portion of the
seal being cut off.
1. Lubricate the valve guides and valve stems
with clean engine oil prior to installation.
2. Install the valve spring lower washer
(Roto-Coil) over the valve guide.
Page 203
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Before installing the valve stem seals, be sure the

rotator has been installed. The rotator will not fit
over the valve stem seal.
3. Lubricate the valve stem seals with engine
oil and install the seals using valve seal
installer J 42453.
4. Install the valve in the cylinder head.
5. Check the valve stem tip for nicks or burrs
that may damage valve seal upon
installation.
6. Install the valve spring, upper washer and
keepers. Use tool J 29294-B to install the
keepers.
7. After the valves are installed, check each
inlet valve for head height above the cylinder
deck. The protrusion dimension for inlet
valves should be 0.0425 +0.009/0.007 inch
(1.0795 +0.229/0.178 mm). Refer to
Figure 211 and Figure 212.
211
Figure 211 Checking Valve Assembly Height

1. Inlet Valve
2. Depth/Height
Measurement Tool
8. Check each exhaust valve for head depth

below the cylinder deck. The depth
dimension for the exhaust valve should be
0.021 +0.009/0.007 inch
(0.553 +0.229/0.178 mm).
Page 204
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
212
Figure 212 Inlet/Exhaust Valve Head Depth Measurement

1. Inlet Protrusion Above Deck: 0.0425 inch
+0.009/0.007 inch (1.0795 +0.229/0.178 mm)
2. Inlet Valve
3. Exhaust Valve
4. Exhaust Valve Depth Below Deck: 0.021 inch
+0.009/0.007 inch (0.553 +0.229/0.178 mm)
If the dimensions are not within specification,

machine the valve seat insert and/or valve face
as necessary. Refer back to the Valve Seat Insert
Installation procedure in this section.
Page 205
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT
BENCH PROCEDURES
[213 LP]
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft

Disassembly (without/with Engine
Brake)
Rocker Arms
Early-production E-Tech engines used the
older style rocker arms of the E7 engine. Effective
second quarter 1997, both models use a newly
designed rocker arm (Figure 213) where the
slipper end wear surface is a hardened, headed
pin, pressed into the rocker arm.
For early-production engines, six C-clips are used

to retain the rocker arms in position. For laterproduction, the four inboard C-clips and washers
are replaced with two spacer tubes to properly
position the rocker arms.
213
Refer to Figure 214 and Figure 215. The shaft

assembly is disassembled as follows:
1. Remove the C-clip and flat washer from one
end of the shaft.
2. Remove the outer rocker arm and spring
washer.
3. Press the mounting bracket from the shaft.
Use care not to drop the assembly as the
bracket is removed.
4. Remove the second spring washer, rocker
arm, flat washer and C-clip or spacer tube, if
so equipped.
5. Repeat steps 1 through 4 to remove the two
remaining rocker arm sets from the shaft.
6. Remove the adjusting screws and jam nuts
from the rocker arms.
Inspection
Inspect all components of the rocker arm and
bracket assembly for evidence of damage or
wear. Replace as necessary.
Figure 213 New-Style Rocker Arm
Page 206
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Reassembly (without Engine Brake)
11. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm and install

on the shaft.
There is a shouldered rocker arm mounting

capscrew at one end of each rocker arm
assembly to ensure proper alignment.
12. Lubricate a spring washer, install it on the

shaft next to the exhaust rocker arm and
press the center mounting bracket onto the
shaft. This bracket does not have a threaded
hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface.
Align the mounting surface and offset of the
bracket with the bracket already installed.
13. Lubricate a spring washer and install it on

the shaft next to the center bracket.
The assembly procedure for the rocker arm shaft

is described below. The arrangement includes
valve rocker arms (with lash adjusters) and
mounting brackets mounted on the shaft. The
bracket mounting dimensions are the same for
both non-brake and brake assemblies.
1. Lubricate the six adjusting screws and jam
nuts (4), and install one in each of the rocker
arms. The adjusting screws are identical for
both inlet and exhaust rocker arms.
2. Position the shaft (8) so that the screw
locating hole is in line with the bracket
locating screw hole.
3. The offset side of the bracket must be
positioned toward the right side of the
engine.
4. Assemble bracket (6) on a press table.
Press the shaft into the bracket until the oil
hole in the shaft is aligned with the hole in
the bracket. Install the locating screw and
lock washer (3) to secure the bracket on the
shaft.
14. Lubricate and install the inlet rocker arm on

the shaft.
15. Install a flat washer and C-clip (1) on the
shaft to retain the center inlet rocker arm.
16. Follow steps 10 through 15 to install the
remaining set of rocker arms and mounting
bracket.
At this point, a used or scrapped cylinder head

can be used as a template for proper bracket
alignment and to ensure mounting surfaces of
each bracket are parallel.
17. Check for proper bracket alignment. Ensure
that mounting surfaces of each bracket are
parallel.
5. Lubricate the spring washers (2) and install

the washers on the shaft, one on each side
of the mounting bracket.
6. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm (5) and
install it on the shaft.
shaft to retain the exhaust rocker arm.
8. Lubricate the inlet rocker arm (7) and install
it on the shaft.
shaft to retain the inlet rocker arm.
10. Install a flat washer and C-clip, if so
equipped, on the shaft to position and retain
the exhaust rocker arm at the center position
of the shaft.
Page 207
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
214
Figure 214 Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (without Engine Brake)
1. Flat Washer and C-Clip
2. Spring Washer
3. Locating Screw and Lock Washer
4. Standard Adjusting Screws and Jam Nuts
5. Exhaust Rocker Arm
Page 208
6. Mounting Bracket
7. Inlet Rocker Arm
8. Shaft
9. Capscrews (Short)
10. Washers (not used if equipped with flangehead bolts)
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Reassembly (with J-Tech Engine
Brake)

shaft to retain the exhaust rocker arm.
9. Lubricate the inlet rocker arm (7) and install
it on the shaft.
shaft to retain the inlet rocker arm.
There is a shouldered rocker arm mounting

capscrew at one end of each rocker arm
assembly to ensure proper alignment.
11. Install a flat washer and C-clip on the shaft

to position and retain the exhaust rocker arm
at the center position of the shaft.
12. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm and install

on the shaft.
The assembly procedure for the rocker arm shaft

of a J-Tech brake-equipped engine is nearly
identical to that of the non-brake engine with the
following differences:
r
An oil supply screw (3) replaces the locating

screw and lock washer.
A spherical jam nut and adjusting screw (4)

replaces the standard jam nut and adjusting
screw on the exhaust rocker arms.
The installation procedure is as follows:

1. Lubricate the three adjusting screws and
jam nuts (8) for the inlet rocker arms, and
install one in each of the arms.
2. Lubricate the three adjusting screws and
spherical jam nuts (4) for the exhaust
rocker arms, and install one in each of the
arms.
3. Position the shaft (9) so that the screw
locating hole is in line with the bracket
locating screw hole.
4. The offset side of the bracket must be
positioned toward the right side of the
engine.
5. Assemble bracket (6) on a press table.
Press the shaft into the bracket until the oil
hole in the shaft is aligned with the hole in
the bracket. Install the oil supply screw (3) to
secure the bracket on the shaft and tighten
the screw to specification, 5 lb-ft (7 Nm).
13. Lubricate a spring washer, install it on the

shaft next to the exhaust rocker arm and
press the center mounting bracket onto the
shaft. This bracket does not have a threaded
hole on top or an oil hole at bottom surface.
Align the mounting surface and offset of the
bracket with the bracket already installed.
14. Lubricate a spring washer and install it on
the shaft next to the center bracket.
15. Lubricate and install the inlet rocker arm on
the shaft.
shaft to retain the center inlet rocker arm.
17. Follow steps 11 through 16 to install the
remaining set of rocker arms and mounting
bracket.
At this point, a used or scrapped cylinder head

can be used as a template for proper bracket
alignment and to ensure mounting surfaces of
each bracket are parallel.
18. Check for proper bracket alignment. Ensure
that mounting surfaces of each bracket are
parallel.
6. Lubricate the spring washers (2) and install

the washers on the shaft, one on each side
of the mounting bracket.
7. Lubricate the exhaust rocker arm (5) and
install it on the shaft.
Page 209
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
215
Figure 215 Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly (with J-Tech Engine Brake)
1. Flat Washer and C-Clip
2. Spring Washer
3. Oil Supply Screw (New Style Design with Integral Check
Valve)*
4. Adjusting Screw and Spherical Jam Nut
5. Exhaust Rocker Arm
6. Mounting Bracket
7. Inlet Rocker Arm
8. Standard Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut

9. Shaft
10. Engine Brake Actuator Assembly
11. Electrical Connector
12. Solenoid
13. Capscrews (Long)
14. Washers (not used if equipped with flangehead bolts)
* A new oil supply screw assembly has been released for the J-Tech engine brake. This new screw incorporates an oil supply
check valve, eliminating the need for the oil supply check valve components in the engine brake housing.
Page 210
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH
PROCEDURES
DISASSEMBLY
Oil Cooler Assembly

Reconditioning
1. For ease of disassembly, reinstall the oil

pump in the cylinder block or in a suitable
holding fixture.
[215 DW]
2. Remove the oil inlet (pickup) tube and

screen assembly (not shown).
See Cooling System Components Bench

Procedures in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
section.
Oil Pump Reconditioning

[219 MU]
Before inlet tube removal, note the orientation of

tube for reassembly purposes. Inlet tubes are
positioned differently for front or rear sump
applications. Caution must be used to ensure that
the correct mounting holes are used for the
proper sump application.
Because of differences in the E-Tech and E7

gear set helixes, it is important that the correct
replacement parts are used in making the repair.
3. Remove the oil pressure relief valve cap

(13).
4. Remove the oil pressure relief valve spring

(12) and plunger (11).

would result.
correct component/part is being used.
5. Remove the oil pump housing cover (7) from

the oil pump housing (4).
6. Slide the oil pump idler gear (14) off the
shaft.
7. Remove the oil pump from the cylinder block
or other suitable holding fixture.
8. Turn the oil pump upside down and remove
the oil pump shaft nut (1) and washer (2).
9. Using a press, remove the driven gear (3)
and key (5) from the pump gear and shaft
assembly (6).
10. Remove the pumping gear/shaft assembly
and thrust washer from the housing.
11. Remove the oil pump inlet flange plate (9)
and gasket (8) from the housing by removing
the capscrews (10).
Page 211
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
216
Figure 216 Lubrication Oil Pump

1. Self-Locking Nut
2. Washer
3. Driven Gear
4. Housing
5. Key
6. Pump Gear and Shaft
7. Oil Pump Housing Cover
8. Gasket
Page 212
9. Inlet Flange Plate

10. Capscrews
11. Plunger
12. Relief Valve Spring
13. Relief Valve Cap
14. Idler Gear
15. Thrust Washer
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION AND CLEARANCE CHECKS
1. Clean and inspect the oil pump housing (4)
for scoring, cracks or other damage. If any of
these conditions exist, replace the oil pump.
2. Check the bushings in the pump housing for
burrs, nicks or cracks.
The bushings are an integral part of the oil pump

housing. If the bushings are damaged, replace
the oil pump housing.
End Clearance Check

Refer to Figure 217. With the pump gear and idler
gear in place, position a straightedge across the
housing and the face of the gears. Check end
clearance as follows:
r
Low Limit Run a 0.003-inch (0.076-mm)

thickness gauge between the straightedge
and the gears. The gauge should move
freely without binding. If binding occurs,
check the gears for nicks or burrs. Replace
as necessary.
High Limit Run a 0.007-inch (0.178-mm)

thickness gauge between the straightedge
and the gears. The gauge should be very
tight. If the gauge moves freely, replace the
gears.
3. Clean and inspect the relief valve spring (12)

for breaks. Replace as necessary.
217
4. Clean and inspect the plunger (11) outer

diameter for galling and scoring. If galling
and scoring are present, replace the
plunger.
5. Inspect the plunger seating surface for burrs
or nicks. If the seating surface contains burrs
or nicks, repair the seat as follows:
a.
Place valve lapping compound on the

plunger seat.
b.
Insert plunger in the relief valve

housing and rotate plunger against the
seat to smooth seat.
c.
Remove the plunger and clean it.
6. Check the pump idler gear (14) for free play

by spinning it on its shaft. If any binding
occurs, check the housing bore and gear
teeth for burrs, nicks or other damage.
Replace as necessary.
7. Insert the pump gear and shaft, and thrust
washer in the housing; check for free play by
spinning the gear. If any binding occurs,
check the housing and gear teeth for burrs,
nicks or other damage. Replace as
necessary. (The E-Tech engine oil pump
utilizes a one-piece shaft with integral
pumping gear.)
Before proceeding with assembly of the pump,

insert the pump gear and idler gear in the
housing. Check end clearance, side clearance
and backlash of the gears as follows.
Figure 217 Oil Pump Driving/Idler Gear Assembly End

Clearance Check
1. Thickness Gauge
2. Straightedge
3. Pump Gear
4. Pump Idler Gear
Page 213
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Side Clearance Check
Backlash Check
Refer to Figure 218. With the straightedge

positioned across the housing and the face of the
gears, check side clearance as follows:
Low Limit Insert a 0.002-inch (0.051-mm)

thickness gauge between side of the gears
and housing. The gauge should pass
between gears and housing without drag. If
it drags, check the housing and gears for
nicks or burrs. Replace as necessary.
High Limit Insert a 0.006-inch (0.152-mm)

thickness gauge between gears and
housing. The gauge should not pass
through. If the gauge passes through,
replace the housing.
Check backlash between the pump gear (3) and

idler gear (2) with a thickness gauge (1).
r
Low Limit Insert a 0.013-inch (0.33-mm)

thickness gauge between the pump idler
gear and pump gear. The gauge should
pass between gears without binding. If
binding occurs, check for nicks or burrs.
Replace as necessary.
High Limit Insert a 0.028-inch (0.711-mm)

thickness gauge between the pump idler
gear and pump gear. The gauge should not
pass through. If the gauge passes through,
replace the gears.
218
219
Figure 218 Oil Pump Driving/Idler Gear Assembly

Side Clearance Check
1. Thickness Gauge
2. Pump Idler Gear
Page 214
3. Pump Gear
Figure 219 Checking Oil Pump Gear Backlash

1. Thickness Gauge
2. Pump Idler Gear
3. Pump Gear
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REASSEMBLY
1. Install the one-piece pump gear/shaft (6)
and thrust washer (15) in the housing and
check for free spin.
2. Install key (5) in the pump gear shaft (6).
3. Place gear (3) on the shaft, aligning the slot
with the shaft key. Press the driven gear on
the shaft.
4. Install washer (2) and self-locking nut (1) on
the shaft. Tighten the nut to specification,
60 lb-ft (81 Nm), using torque wrench
J 24407, or equivalent.
5. Install the idler gear (14) on the housing
shaft.
6. Install cover (7) on the pump and secure the
cover with capscrews. Tighten the
capscrews to specification, 15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
Because the inlet tube must be in a vertical

position when installed in the engine, the
mounting flange bolt pattern is off-set to the same
degree as the oil pump-to-cylinder block
mounting angle. The mounting flange of the inlet
tube has four bolt holes marked with an F or R to
distinguish which two holes are used for the front
sump, and which two holes are used for rear
sump applications. Caution must be used to
ensure that the correct mounting holes are used
for the proper sump applications.
COOLING SYSTEM
COMPONENTS BENCH
PROCEDURES
Oil Cooler Reconditioning
[215 DW]
Apply Loctite 271 to all capscrews used to

assemble the oil pump.
7. Install the oil pressure relief valve plunger
(11) in the relief valve housing (4).
To maintain correct oil pressure for the various oil

system arrangements, the proper oil pressure
relief valve spring and cap combination must be
used. Using incorrect components may result in
either high or low oil pressure, and contribute to
premature engine damage.
Early-production engines with the right-side

mounted EECU are equipped with a removable
bundle-type oil cooler that can be disassembled,
inspected and tested, and the bundle replaced if
necessary. The plate-type oil cooler (Figure 220)
on current-production engines with the left-side
mounted EECU cannot be disassembled. Should
it fail, it is replaced as an assembly.
220
8. Install the oil pressure relief valve spring (12)

in the relief valve housing.
9. Clean the relief valve cap (13) and install it in
the relief valve housing.
10. Install the pump inlet flange plate (9) and
gasket (8) on the housing. Secure the plate
with capscrews (10).
11. Install the oil inlet (pickup) tube and screen
assembly.
Figure 220 Plate-Type Oil Cooler Assembly
The following disassembly and assembly

procedures apply only for the removable bundletype oil cooler.
Page 215
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Periodic visual inspection of the oil cooler will
indicate condition of gaskets and O-rings. If a
problem exists, components of the assembly can
be serviced separately.
The presence of engine oil in the engine coolant

may indicate internal engine problems or worn,
loosened or damaged parts within the oil cooler.
Continued operation under these conditions may
result in severe engine damage.
221
Figure 221 Removable Bundle-Type Oil Cooler Assembly

1. Gasket
2. Coolant Outlet End Cap
3. O-Ring
4. Mounting Flange
5. Clamps
6. Coupler
7. Gasket or O-Ring
8. Washer
9. Capscrew
10. Oil Outlet Tube
11. O-Ring
12. Capscrew
13. Washer
14. Oil Supply Head
Page 216
15. Capscrew
16. Washer
17. O-Ring
18. Pipe Plug
19. Capscrew
20. Coolant Inlet Cap
21. Gasket
22. Bundle
23. Gasket
24. Housing
25. Gasket
26. Capscrew
27. Capscrew
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
DISASSEMBLY
222

1. Remove the coolant inlet end cap (20) by
removing six capscrews (19).
2. Remove the coolant outlet end cap (2) by
removing six capscrews (26).
3. Remove the bundle (22) from the coolant
inlet end of the housing (24).
4. Remove the O-ring (3) from the coolant
outlet end of the housing.
5. Clean gasket material from all surfaces.
INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect the housing for cracks which
may cause a leak. Replace the housing if
damaged.
2. Pressure check the oil cooler for leaks by
installing a test plate with an air fitting as
follows:
a.
Position a rubber gasket (5) and test

plate (4) on the mounting flange (1) and
secure the plate with mounting
capscrews (2) as shown in Figure 222.
b.
Install a steel plate (2) with a rubber

gasket on the oil outlet opening. Secure
the plate to the housing (1) with two
capscrews (3) as shown in Figure 223.
c.
Connect an air line and pressurize the

assembly to 80 psi (552 kPa).
Submerge the assembly in water to
check for leaks.
Figure 222 Installing Test Plate

1. Mounting Flange
2. Capscrews
3. Air Fitting
4. Test Plate
5. Rubber Gasket
When pressure testing the complete oil cooler

assembly using an in-line pressure regulator, first
apply pressure at 25 psi (1434 kPa) maximum
and check for leaks. Then gradually increase the
pressure, checking for leaks until 80 psi
(552 kPa) is reached.
Page 217
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on top of the
gasket.
223
4. Install the bundle (22). If necessary, tap the

bundle with a soft-faced hammer to seat the
bundle past the O-ring (3).
The alignment notch in the bundle end flange

must be positioned at the top for proper
installation.
5. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on the
bundle end.
6. Place the gasket (21) on the bundle end.
7. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on top of the
gasket (21) before installing the inlet cap
(20).
8. Install the coolant inlet end cap and secure
the cap with six capscrews (19).
9. Tighten the coolant inlet end-cap capscrews
to the specified torque, 20 lb-ft (27 Nm),
using torque wrench J 24405, or equivalent.
Figure 223 Sealing Oil Outlet

1. Housing
2. Plate
3. Capscrews
3. If a leak is detected in the bundle after a

pressure check of the oil cooler, replace the
bundle.
ASSEMBLY
Lubricate and install O-ring (3) in the groove at
the coolant outlet end of the oil cooler housing
(24).
1. Apply Permatex gasket sealer on the
coolant inlet flange before installing the
gasket (23).
2. Install the gasket (23) on the coolant inlet
end of the housing (24).
Page 218
10. Apply Permatex sealant to both sides of

the gasket (25) and install the gasket on the
mounting flange (4) of the housing.
11. Install the coolant outlet end cap (2) with six
capscrews (26).
12. Tighten the coolant outlet end-cap
capscrews to the specified torque, 20 lb-ft
(27 Nm), using torque wrench J 24406, or
equivalent.
Water Pump Reconditioning

[215 SW]
The water pump is not a field-rebuildable unit. If a
pump failure occurs, exchange it for a new or
remanufactured unit available through the MACK
Parts System.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS
BENCH PROCEDURES
Installation of Electronic Unit Pump

Plunger Spring and Seat

Inspection
Improper removal of an electronic unit pump

(EUP) from an engine, or certain failures such as
broken EUP hold-down bolts, will result in a rapid
pop-up of the pump from the bore. Should this
occur, the unit pump tappet spring seat can
dislodge from the plunger foot. The plunger,
however, is retained by a retaining clip, so it will
remain in place. Should a spring seat dislodge,
no damage occurs to any of the parts involved,
and the unit pump may be reassembled as
described below.
[221 GP]
Visually inspect each electronic unit pump
assembly and O-rings for signs of wear or
damage. Replace the O-rings as required. If a
pump is damaged or not operating properly,
replace the pump; it is not repairable.
224
When servicing a unit pump, take care not to

damage any machined or threaded surfaces.
Work should be performed on a clean, nonmetallic surface.
1. Remove the plunger retaining clip.
225
Figure 224 Electronic Unit Pump Assembly

Figure 225 Plunger Retaining Clip Removal
1. Retaining Clip
Page 219
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Pull the plunger out of the unit pump bore
until the gold portion of the plunger is visible
through the retaining clip slot. The shoulder
of the plunger (where the silver-colored and
gold-colored areas meet), will just align with
the bottom of the unit pump housing.
227
To avoid possible contamination or damage to the

plunger, do not remove the plunger completely
from the unit pump. If the plunger is inadvertently
removed, dip it in clean fuel, carefully reinstall into
the unit pump bore, then check for smooth, free
movement in the unit pump bore.
226
Figure 227 Plunger Retaining Clip Installation
4. Place the spring onto the unit pump body.

228
Figure 226 Gold-Colored Plunger Surface, Behind

Retaining Clip Slot
1. Retaining Clip Slot
2. Gold-Colored Surface
3. With the plunger pulled from the unit pump

bore as described in step 2, slide the
retaining clip into place. The flat side of the
clip goes into the retaining clip slot.
The plunger must be positioned as described in

step 2 when the clip is installed, or reassembling
the unit pump spring and spring seat will be
difficult, if not impossible.
Figure 228 Plunger Spring Installation
5. Install the spring seat (flat side against the

spring) with the larger hole of the spring seat
keyhole opening over the plunger foot.
6. Slide the spring seat so that the plunger foot
goes into the smaller, center hole of the
keyhole slot.
Page 220
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
9. Reinstall the unit pump into the engine using
the procedures as outlined under Engine
Reassembly in the REPAIR
229
Fuel Injector Nozzle Cleaning

[222 KG]
When servicing the nozzle holder assemblies,
cleaning of the nozzle tips may be necessary.
Special care must be taken when cleaning the
nozzle tips to avoid damaging the nozzle spray
holes.
231
Figure 229 Spring Seat Installation
7. Using the heel of the hand, press down on

the plunger and spring seat until a click is
heard. The click indicates that the plunger
has been pushed down, and the retaining
clip has seated to hold the plunger, spring
and spring seat in place.
230
Figure 230 Plunger and Spring Seat Seating
8. Install new O-rings and lubricate with clean

engine oil.
Figure 231 Fuel Injection Nozzle Holder Assembly
Page 221
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ULTRASONIC CLEANING METHOD
Ultrasonic cleaning is the preferred method for
cleaning the fuel injector nozzles. Ultrasonic
cleaning units, such as J 29653-A, use sound
waves or mechanical vibrations approximately
55,000 cycles per second above human hearing
range. The sound waves are generated by the
transducer, which changes high-frequency
electrical energy into mechanical energy.
ENGINE REASSEMBLY
This section includes step-by-step procedures for
complete reassembly of the MACK E-Tech
engine. Major components that were inspected
and overhauled or replaced under the respective
bench procedure sections of this manual are
reinstalled here as assemblies.
BRASS BRUSH/WIRE WHEEL METHOD

Cleaning the fuel injector nozzles with a brass
brush or wire wheel may be acceptable under
some conditions, but it is not recommended.
The nozzles will be damaged if a steel wire wheel
is used for cleaning. Damage can also occur if an
improper size brass-wire wheel and/or improper
speed is used.
Failure to follow the sequence of operations listed

may result in damage to components or personal
injury.
After cleaning the components, properly store

them where they will remain clean until needed
for reassembly.
When required for installing components, be sure
to use clean engine oil of the approved type.
Crankshaft Installation
[212 HP]
1. Be sure that the crankshaft and the
crankcase area of the cylinder block are
clean.
2. Thoroughly clean each main bearing bore
and the back of each bearing insert before
installation. The inserts must be installed
dry.
The hole in the insert must line up with the drilled

hole in the block or the bearing will fail due to lack
of lubrication. The upper bearing insert is
stamped on the back with the word UPPER.
3. Place the upper half of the bearing insert (2)
in the cylinder block main bearing bore,
making sure that the locating tab (1) fits into
the notch in the bore (Figure 232).
Page 222
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Repeat the previous step to install the
remaining upper inserts. Refer to Figure 233
for the part number and location of each
bearing insert.
232
A bearing insert installed at the wrong location

can cause engine failure.
233
Figure 232 Main Bearing Insert (Upper)

1. Locating Tab
2. Bearing Insert
Figure 233 Main Bearing Insert Part Numbers and Locations

1. Upper Insert 646B348; Lower Insert 646B343

Page 223
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil on the
insert surfaces and on the crankshaft main
bearing journals.
Do not mix the caps or inserts. The caps are

numbered from 1 through 7, front to rear.
234
Due to the considerable weight of the

crankshaft, extreme care must be observed
during installation. No nicks, scratches,
burrs, or any other kinds of distress are
acceptable on the main bearing and/or
crankshaft journals and fillets.
6. Using a suitable lifting device, position the
crankshaft in the cylinder block.
Main Bearing Cap Installation

[212 HH]
Figure 234 Main Bearing Installation (Lower)
Unfinished main bearing caps are available for

servicing of E-Tech engines. These are
undersize bore bearing caps for service rebore:
r
Cap, Intermediate and Front Main Bearing

(Semi-Finished), No. 223GB2131M
Cap, Rear and Center Main Bearing (SemiFinished), No. 223GB2132

r
Magnetic Base Indicator Tool J 7872
1. Clean the bore in the bearing cap and back
of the lower bearing insert.
2. Install the bearing insert in the bearing cap
bore (Figure 234). The insert must be
installed dry.
The lower bearing inserts do not have a hole or a

groove. They are stamped with the word
LOWER.
Page 224
1. Locating Tab
2. Bearing Insert
3. Bearing Cap
3. Lubricate the threads of the bearing

capscrews with clean engine oil and place
capscrews in the cap holes.
4. Position the No. 1 bearing cap over the
No. 1 crankshaft journal and start the screws
in the threaded holes in the cylinder block.
5. Using a plastic-faced mallet, tap the bearing
cap down until it contacts the machined
mounting surface.
6. Tighten the screws until they contact the
bearing cap. At this time, tighten them only
finger-tight.
7. Repeat the above steps for the bearing cap
Nos. 2, 3, 5, 6 and 7. The center bearing
cap, No. 4, is installed later.
8. Tighten the bearing cap capscrews to
specification, 210 lb-ft (285 Nm), using
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
9. Place the upper thrust washer sections in
position in the cylinder block at the center
bearing, No. 4, location as shown in
Figure 236. The steel side of the thrust
washer goes toward the block, the copper or
aluminum-faced side goes toward the
crankshaft (this applies to upper and lower
thrust washer sections). Oil reservoir
grooves are cut into the aluminum-faced
side, as well as tip-face reliefs.
235
Use standard thickness thrust washers initially.
Beginning October 1996, a new style thrust

washer was phased into production for E-Tech
engines. These thrust washers are steel backed
with an aluminum facing material on the side
installed against the crankshaft. The obvious
color difference of the previously used bronze/
steel washers is no longer present making it
difficult to determine which side of the washer is
meant to be installed against the crankshaft. Care
should be taken when installing these aluminum
faced thrust washers as the steel side is nearly
the same color as the aluminum surface. Locate
the oil the reservoir grooves and the tip reliefs cut
into the aluminum, and install those sides against
the crankshaft.
Figure 235 Thrust Washer Styles
To prevent damage, ensure the thrust washers

are installed in the correct position when
assembling an engine. Failure to install the thrust
washer properly will result in rapid wear of the
area where the crankshaft contacts the thrust
washer.
Page 225
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
236
Figure 236 Crankshaft Thrust Washer Installation
10. Position the lower thrust washer sections on

the center bearing cap (aluminum-faced side
toward crankshaft) and install the cap
(Figure 237). Torque the capscrews to
specification, 210 lb-ft (285 Nm), using
Page 226
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
237
Figure 237 Main Bearing Cap/Thrust Washer Installation

1. Bearing Cap
2. Thrust Washer
11. Install a magnetic base indicator tool,

J 7872, or equivalent, on the block with the
plunger against a crankshaft counterweight
to check crankshaft end play.
12. Using a suitable pry bar, move the
crankshaft either forward or rearward until it
stops. Tap the end of the crankshaft with a
plastic-faced hammer to seat the thrust
washer.
13. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the
opposite direction. Tap the end of the
crankshaft with a plastic-faced hammer to
seat the other thrust washer.
14. Set the dial on the indicator to zero.
15. Using the pry bar, move the crankshaft in the
opposite direction and read the dial
indicator. Refer to the allowable tolerances
3. No. 4 Journal
16. If the end play is out of specification, remove

the thrust washers and install properly sized
thrust washers, as required, to bring the end
play into specification.
The thickness of the thrust washers used in the

bearing cap must match the thickness of the
thrust washers in the block. Be sure to put the
aluminum-faced bearing surface of the thrust
washer against the crankshaft when installing the
thrust washers.
17. Install the center main bearing cap, with
bearing insert and the correct thrust washer
sections in place, and torque the bearing
capscrews to specification.
18. Recheck the end play to ensure the thrust
washers have been installed correctly and
that end play is within specification. Rotate
the crankshaft to ensure there is no binding.
Page 227
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CHECKING RUNNING CLEARANCE
238
When using the Plastigage method of checking

running clearance, do not turn the crankshaft.
Doing so will destroy the Plastigage.
If checking the main bearing clearance with the

engine in the upright position (such as in the
chassis), the weight of the crankshaft must be
removed from the lower half of the bearing being
checked. To do this, place cardboard under the
crankshaft journal in the main caps adjacent to
the journal to be checked and tighten the
adjacent caps until the journal to be checked
seats against the upper bearing. Do not fully
torque screws. Capscrews on the bearing being
checked should be torqued to specification after
Plastigage strip has been positioned on the
bearing shell and the cap reinstalled. Support the
crankshaft at Nos. 1, 4 and 7 main journals, while
checking Nos. 2, 3, 5 and 6 bearings. Support the
crankshaft at the Nos. 3 and 5 journals, while
checking the Nos. 1, 4 and 7 bearings.
Figure 238 Checking Running Clearance with
Plastigage
ENGINE OUT OF CHASSIS AND INVERTED

1. Use Plastigage to check the main bearing
clearance. Check each bearing, one at a
time, by placing a piece of Plastigage on the
journal and tightening the cap in place. The
bearing clearance is determined by
measuring the width of the crushed
Plastigage with the supplied gauge.
2. Place a section of Plastigage (2) on the
journal to be checked and assemble the
main bearing cap (1) to the cylinder block as
shown in Figure 238.
3. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the
bearing cap capscrews and secure the cap.
4. Tighten the capscrews to the specified
torque, 210 lb-ft (285 Nm), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent. The
Plastigage strip will be crushed between the
bearing insert (3) and the crankshaft journal
(4).
Page 228
1. Main Bearing Cap

2. Plastigage
3. Bearing Insert
4. Crankshaft Journal
5. Remove the capscrews and cap, and check

the bearing running clearance.
6. Check the width of the Plastigage using a
Plastigage width chart. After measuring
width, remove the Plastigage from the
bearing.
7. If the clearance is not within specification,
correct the clearance as required. Be sure to
use the proper size bearing(s).
r
If the clearance is less than specified,

check behind the bearing for dirt, chips
or burrs which would prevent the
bearing from seating properly.
If the bearing bores and inserts are

clean and undamaged, replace the
inserts with inserts sized to provide the
specified clearance.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
8. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate
the capscrews with clean engine oil of the
proper specification. Lubricate and install the
bearing cap buttress capscrews as required,
finger-tight. Install the bearing cap
capscrews and tighten to the specified
torque value, 210 lb-ft (285 Nm), using
There are two buttress capscrew dimensions:

r
LH side 2, 3, 5, 6 and RH side 5 and 6

(6 total) are 80 mm long (1).
RH side FRT 2 and 3 (2 total) are 110 mm

long (2).

239
Figure 239 Buttress Capscrew Locations

1. 80-mm Buttress Capscrews
9. After obtaining the proper main bearing

clearance at all seven journal locations,
check the torque of the main bearing
capscrews, 210 lb-ft (285 Nm), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent.
2. 110-mm Buttress Capscrews
10. Tighten the buttress capscrews to the

specified torque, 90 lb-ft (122 Nm), using
Page 229
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Piston and Connecting Rod
Installation
[212 NP and 212 LP]
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Piston Ring Compressor J 23442 or Piston

Ring Compressor PT7070-A
BT 91104 Torque Angle Gauge
1. Rotate the crankshaft so that the journals for
the No. 1 and No. 6 cylinders are at bottom
dead center (BDC) (Figure 240).
240
2. Place the piston marked No. 1 on a clean,

flat surface. Rest the piston and rod
assembly on the piston crown with the rod
upward.
3. Apply a light coat of clean engine oil to the
piston and rings.
inside surface of the piston ring compressor,
J 23442, PT7070-A, or equivalent.
5. Install the ring compressor by slipping it over
the rod and down over the piston skirt.
Continue to slide the tool downward,
carefully guiding the rings into the ring
grooves until the tool contacts the surface on
which the piston crown is resting.
6. Position the upper bearing insert into the
connecting rod. Align the tab in the bearing
insert with the notch in the rod. Be sure that
the hole in the bearing aligns with the oil
passage in the rod.
The hole in the upper connecting rod bearing

must be aligned with the oil passage in the
connecting rod. Otherwise, damage to the
bearing, rod and crankshaft journal will result.
bearing surface.
inside surface of the No. 1 cylinder sleeve.
9. With the ring compressor (2) in place,
position the piston and rod assembly (1) into
the No. 1 cylinder as shown in Figure 241
until the compressor contacts the top of the
sleeve. The arrow and word FRONT on both
the piston crown and the connecting rod
must be facing the front of the engine.
Figure 240 No. 1 Cylinder (Crankshaft at BDC)

1. Crankshaft
Page 230
2. No. 1 Journal
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
241
Figure 241 Piston and Connecting Rod Installation

1. Connecting Rod Assembly
2. Piston Ring Compressor Tool
10. Make sure the connecting rod is aligned with

the crankshaft journal.
3. Cylinder Block
11. While applying downward pressure to the

ring compression tool (1) to keep it in
contact with the cylinder sleeve as shown in
Figure 242, use a hammer handle to push
the piston (2) through the tool. Continue
pushing on the piston until the top ring has
passed into the cylinder sleeve.
Page 231
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
242
Figure 242 Pushing Piston into Cylinder Sleeve

1. Piston Ring Compressor Tool
2. Piston
3. Cylinder Block
243
Do not force the piston. This indicates an

incorrectly aligned ring. Remove the piston
assembly, correct the problem, and then reinstall
it. Make sure the compressor tool remains in
contact with the cylinder sleeve until the piston
clears the tool. If contact is not maintained,
damage to the rings may result.
Before pushing the piston all the way down in the
sleeve, check to see if piston cooling nozzle (1) is
aligned with the nozzle clearance notch (2)
provided in the lower end of the piston skirt as
shown in Figure 243. Damage to piston or spray
nozzle may result if it is not aligned.
Figure 243 Piston Skirt/Cooling Nozzle Alignment

1. Cooling Nozzle
2. Clearance Notch
Page 232
3. Connecting Rod
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
12. Align the rod with the crankshaft journal and
continue pushing the piston into the sleeve
while guiding the rod end to clear the piston
cooling nozzle and seat properly on the
crankshaft journal.
13. Ensure that the correct rod bearing lower
insert (matched to upper insert) and the
alignment sleeves are positioned in the
bearing cap.
14. Begin by installing the bearing cap at the
No. 1 connecting rod journal (Figure 244)
and check Running Clearance following the
procedure later in this section. Repeat the
running clearance check following the
installation of each of the remaining five
pistons.
Running clearance must be checked after

installing each piston. Damage to engine may
result if clearance is not within specification.
244
RUNNING CLEARANCE CHECK

1. Place a section of Plastigage on the rod cap
bearing and assemble cap to the rod.
2. Apply a light coat of oil on the threads of the
rod cap capscrews and secure the cap.
3. Angle torque the capscrews to 30 lb-ft
(41 Nm) plus 90 degrees using torque
angle gauge set BT 91104, or equivalent.
The angle-torque method applies for 14-mm

capscrew part Nos. 396GC211M and
396GC212M with partial and full threaded
shanks, respectively. Intermixing the partial and
full threaded 14-mm capscrews on the same
connecting rod is permissible.
4. Remove the capscrews and cap.
5. Check the width of the Plastigage on the
removed cap using a Plastigage width chart.
After measuring width, remove the
Plastigage from the bearing.
6. If the clearance is not within specification,
correct the clearance as required:
Figure 244 Connecting Rod Cap Installation

1. Connecting Rod
2. Bearing Cap
If the clearance is less than specified,

check behind the bearing for dirt, chips
or burrs which would prevent the
bearing from seating properly.
If the bearing bores and inserts are

clean and undamaged, replace the
inserts with inserts sized to provide the
specified clearance.
7. Reposition the cap on the journal. Lubricate

capscrews with clean engine oil, install the
capscrews and tighten to the specified
torque, 30 lb-ft (41 Nm) plus 90 degrees
using torque angle gauge set BT 91104, or
equivalent.
15. Repeat the above steps to install the No. 6

piston.
dead center and install the No. 2 and No. 5
pistons following the above steps.
dead center and install the No. 3 and No. 4
pistons, again following the above steps.
If the cap and rod are not properly aligned,

bearing and rod damage may result.
8. Check the rod side clearance (Figure 245)
by installing a thickness gauge between the
rod and the side of the journal. Check along
the entire parting line area.
Page 233
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Housing Installation
245
[211 HD]
Production phase-in of a redesigned die-cast

aluminum housing began approximately midNovember 1998. The noticeable design
differences of the new die-cast aluminum housing
compared with the permanent mold cast
aluminum housing include a smaller diameter
starter drive gear mounting housing with two
large strengthening ribs along the top, and other
structural ribs around the housing.
INSPECTION
Inspect the flywheel housing machined surfaces,
capscrews, holes and dowel locations for cracks
or wear. Replace if cracks are evident.
Before installing the flywheel housing, examine

the crankshaft flange for any cracks, surface
damage or presence of foreign particles. This
type of damage could ruin the sealing capabilities
of the new seal and lead to oil leakage.
DOWEL PINS
Figure 245 Connecting Rod Side Clearance Check

1. Crankshaft Journal
2. Rod Bearing Cap
3. Thickness Gauge
9. The clearance must be within specification

listed under Fits and Limits in the
SPECIFICATIONS section. If not, recheck
for proper cap and rod alignment.
Page 234
A combination of round- and blade-style locating

dowel pins are used to install the front cover and
flywheel housing. A blade-style pin is used for the
flywheel. When installing the blade-style pins,
make sure the blade is properly positioned:
Vertically (pointing up and down) for the
front cover and flywheel housing
Parallel to crankshaft center line for the
flywheel
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CAPSCREWS (FLYWHEEL HOUSING)
The E-Tech flywheel housing castings are

manufactured to use standardized housing
mounting hardware as follows:
r
Two upper external mounting location

capscrews M3 (3 inches long)
Six internal mounting location capscrews

M (2 inches long)
Eight washers used with aluminum

housing part No. 35AX1489
Eight washers used with ductile iron

housing part No. 271AM5008
Service replacement flywheel housings are the

standardized flywheel housing. The new
appropriate mounting hardware comes with the
new-style flywheel housing supplied by the MACK
Truck Parts System.
246
Figure 246 Flywheel Housing Bolts

1. Old-Style Aluminum Flywheel Housing (No Longer Used)
2. Standardized Flywheel Housing (Aluminum or Ductile Iron)
Page 235
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSTALLATION
1. Remove the rear crankshaft oil seal from the
flywheel housing by drilling two 3-mm holes,
180 degrees apart, into the outer edge of the
seal. Remove the seal with a slide hammer
fitted with a No. 10 sheet metal screw.
Thread it into each of the holes alternately
and work the seal free.
4. Apply an even coat of Silastic

(approximately a 1/16-inch [2 mm] bead) to
the flywheel housing mounting surface of the
cylinder block. Refer to Figure 248.
248
2. Using standard shop cleaning procedures

for aluminum, clean the seal mounting
surface.
3. Insert the two dowel pins in the cylinder
block if they were removed. Refer to
Figure 247.
The flywheel housing dowels maintain the

alignment of the flywheel housing on the engine.
This is necessary to center the transmission with
respect to the engine flywheel and crankshaft.
247
Figure 248 Applying Sealant
5. Align the flywheel housing on the dowels

and position it flush against the cylinder
block surface. Refer to Figure 249.
249
Figure 249 Positioning Flywheel Housing
6. Install the flywheel housing mounting

capscrews and tighten them finger-tight.
7. Tighten all flywheel housing capscrews to
the specified torque, 170 lb-ft (231 Nm),
Figure 247 Flywheel Housing Installation
1. Cylinder Block
2. Flywheel Housing
Page 236
3. Dowel Pin
4. Capscrews
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
RUNOUT
250
With the machined dowel method of installation,

flywheel housing runout is well within the old
service specification of 0.010 inch (0.254 mm)
Total Indicated Runout (TIR), when checked with
an alignment bar through the cylinder block main
bearing bores. However, when checking flywheel
runout using a dial indicator on the crankshaft
rear flange or the flywheel, results may exceed
0.010 inch (0.254 mm) due to factors such as
crankshaft movement within the bearing
clearances and other variables.
The dial indicator is the only method which can

be used at this stage of assembly (with
crankshaft in place). The machined dowel
method requires that crankshaft and piston
assemblies be removed.
Flywheel housing runout specifications are as
follows:
r
Runout checked with an alignment bar

installed through the cylinder block main
bearing bores: 0.010 inch (0.254 mm) TIR
maximum. Refer to Figure 250.
Figure 250 Flywheel Housing Runout Check with

Alignment Bar
251
Runout checked with a dial indicator

(PT5035 with Z adapter PT5035-1) mounted
on the crankshaft rear flange or flywheel as
shown in Figure 251 is: 0.020 inch
(0.508 mm) TIR maximum. This way, the
runout may appear to be excessive due to
crankshaft movement within bearings and
other variables.
Figure 251 Flywheel Housing Runout Check with Dial

Indicator
Page 237
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
252
[212 JH]
MACK E-Tech engines are produced with
Teflon oil seals. Engines with dry flywheel
housings (standard transmission) use single-lip
seals, while those with wet flywheel housings
(automatic transmission) use double-lip seals.
Single-lip replacement seals are available in
Viton or Teflon; double-lip replacement seals are
available in Teflon only. Viton seals are available
with an oversized inside diameter and the
corresponding wear ring.
Figure 252 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal Installation
INSTALLATION SINGLE-LIP SEAL

Crankshaft design allows the single-lip seal to be
installed at the production depth of 0.344 inch
0.005 inch (8.74 mm 0.127 mm), or a service
depth of 0.250 inch 0.005 inch (6.35 mm
0.127 mm) from the rear outer edge of the
crankshaft flange.
1. J 37716-B
2. Oil Seal
3. Installation Sleeve
3. Using the three guide pins, attach the

adapter plate to the crankshaft flange. Refer
to Figure 253.
253
Special handling precautions must be taken while

installing Teflon seals. Do not lubricate the lips
of a Teflon seal before installation. Teflon seals
function most effectively when installed dry.
Standard-size Teflon seals are shipped on a
plastic installation sleeve. Do not remove the seal
from the sleeve before installation. The
installation sleeve provides a smooth surface for
the seal as it moves from the tool to the
crankshaft flange.
Figure 253 Adapter Plate J 37716-B Installation
1. Thoroughly clean the surface of the

crankshaft flange.
2. Position the oil seal (2) and installation
sleeve (3) onto the recessed side of
J 37716-B oil seal installation tool adapter
plate (1) as shown in Figure 252. The singlelip seal must be installed with the lip toward
the engine.
4. Determine the seal and wear ring installation

depth:
r
New seal on a new crankshaft or

service crankshaft with a new wear
ring Install to the initial production
depth of 0.3390.349 inch
(8.6118.865 mm).
New seal on a service crankshaft with/

without a used wear ring Install to
the service depth of 0.2450.255 inch
(6.2236.477 mm).
Wear ring installation depth

0.150.220 inch (5.4615.588 mm).
Page 238
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSTALLATION WEAR RING WITH
DOUBLE-LIP TEFLON SEAL
(WET-TYPE FLYWHEEL HOUSING)
254
The oversize inside diameter lip seal and wear

ring are shipped as an assembly, with the seal
installed on the wear ring. Do not remove the seal
from the wear ring prior to installation. The wear
ring and seal installer J 35529 is required for
installation. This tool presses both the wear ring
and the oil seal onto the crankshaft flange.
r
Wear Ring and Seal Installer J 35529

1. Remove existing wear ring from crankshaft
before installing new wear ring.
2. Thoroughly clean and dry the crankshaft
flange.
3. Apply a thin, even layer of Loctite 609 to
the circumference of the crankshaft flange.
Figure 254 Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal

1. Crankshaft Rear Oil Seal
2. Production Seal
Installation Depth
3. Service Seal Installation
Depth
4. Service Seal Installation

Depth with Wear Ring
5. Wear Ring Installation
Depth
5. The two installation depths are stamped

above two of the guide pin bores on the
installation tool press plate. To install the
seal to the desired depth, position the press
plate so that the guide pins go through the
bore stamped with the desired depth.
6. Install the press plate driver hex nut and
continue tightening until a positive stop is
felt. At this point, the seal is installed to the
proper depth.
7. Remove the installation tool.
Do not lubricate the lips of a Teflon seal before

installation. Teflon seals function most
effectively when installed dry.
4. The lip of one side of the seal is yellow.
Install the oil seal with the yellow lip toward
the transmission. Position the oil seal and
wear ring assembly onto the recessed side
of the installation tool adapter plate with the
yellow lip facing away from the direction of
installation (toward the transmission).
5. Using the three guide pins, attach the oil
seal installation tool adapter plate to the
crankshaft flange.
6. Install the press cup over the guide pins.
Then install the press cup driver hex nut.
7. Tighten the hex nut until a positive stop is
felt. At that point, the oil seal and wear ring
are properly installed on the crankshaft
flange. The double-lip seal is properly
installed to a depth of 0.250 inch
0.005 inch (6.35 mm 0.127 mm).
8. Remove the installation tool.
Page 239
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Flywheel Installation
255
[212 VC]
TIMING SCALE
The flywheel has a stamped timing scale of top
center (TC) to 45 degrees of engine travel
(engine timing) and three stamped locations,
120 degrees apart, for valve settings as shown in
Figure 256. The flywheel still has pump timing
marks to accommodate application to both
E-Tech and E7 engines; the marks are not
needed for the E-Tech engine.
256
Figure 255 Crankshaft Wear Ring (with Double-Lip

Teflon Seal) Installation
Figure 256 Flywheel Markings
Page 240
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
After resurfacing, any flywheel with drilled

balance holes on the clutch side requires
rebalancing by a machine shop.

torque, 185 lb-ft (251 Nm), alternating from
opposite sides to apply even pressure to the
flywheel (use torque wrench J 24407, or
equivalent).
257
On vehicles equipped with an automatic

transmission, it may be necessary to install
different components to the flywheel retaining
capscrews. Refer to Automatic Transmission
Drive Arrangement Assembly Instructions
manual, 5-902, for installation instructions
regarding these arrangements.
When installing the flywheel, insert two alignment

studs into the flywheel mounting holes to aid in
installation.
1. Position the flywheel over the dowel pin and
alignment studs on the flywheel mounting
surface at the rear of the crankshaft.
2. Install the flywheel mounting capscrews in
the exposed mounting holes. At this time,
tighten the capscrews finger-tight only.
Figure 257 Flywheel Installation
3. Remove the two alignment studs and insert

the remaining mounting capscrews.
Do not torque capscrews adjacent to each other

in sequence. Doing so may result in uneven
flywheel alignment. Capscrews on opposite sides
of the flywheel should be alternately tightened to
the specified torque.
Page 241
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Lifter Installation
Camshaft Installation
[213 LB]
[213 CH]
1. Rotate the engine 180 degrees, so bottom of

the engine is facing up.
2. Apply a generous coating of clean engine oil
to the lifters.
3. Install the lifters into the cylinder block lifter
bores as shown in Figure 258.
Before installing a camshaft in any engine,

ensure that cam is clean, undamaged and welllubricated with clean engine oil. Refer to the
Auxiliary Shaft and Camshaft Bench Procedures
in the REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section.
258
When installing the camshaft, it is easier to

remove the camshaft guide from the camshaft
(after installation) when the idler gear is removed
and alignment of the timing marks is not being
attempted at the same time. The final step in the
process is to reinstall the idler gear.
Use camshaft guide tool J 41682 to ease

installation of the camshaft and avoid damage to
the camshaft bushings.
Figure 258 Valve Lifter Installation
4. Make sure that the lifter flats are aligned with

the H-ring flats (Figure 259) and that the
lifters are fully seated against the H-rings.
Once installed, it should be possible to
rotate lifters slightly from left to right.
259
Install the camshaft as follows:

to the camshaft bushings.
2. Clean the camshaft with a suitable solvent.
3. Install the camshaft installation guide over
the large flat of the injector lobe, between
the last two cam journals (journals at the
back of shaft). Refer to Figure 260.
260
Figure 259 Installed Valve Lifter
Figure 260 Camshaft Installation Guide
Page 242
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
4. Apply clean engine oil to the installation
guide.
Camshaft Core Plug Installation

[213]
The camshaft is heavy, approximately 90 pounds

with the gear. The installation guide allows the
camshaft to slide from one cam bushing to the
next without allowing the cam to drop when one
journal clears the bushing bore.
After the camshaft is installed, install the core

plug.
1. Position the core plug onto the core plug
installation tool J 42490 (used with J 8092
driver handle). Refer to Figure 262.
262
5. With the engine still rotated 180 degrees

(crankcase facing up, head deck facing
down), position the camshaft in the block
with the cam installation guide facing down
toward the floor as shown in Figure 261.
6. Slide the cam all the way into the block.
261
Figure 262 Camshaft Core Plug Installation Tool
2. Position the core plug in the cylinder block.

3. Drive the core plug into place by striking the
installation tool with a hammer (Figure 263)
until the core plug is seated. Core plug is
fully seated when the step in the installation
tool bottoms against the block.
Figure 261 Camshaft Installation
263
7. After the camshaft is fully installed, install

the thrust washer screws and tighten to
specification, 15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
8. Rotate crankshaft and camshaft to facilitate
installation guide removal. The camshaft
must be rotated so that the installation guide
faces up toward the cylinder block pan rail.
The crankshaft must be rotated so the No. 6
connecting rod journal faces down toward
the cylinder block top deck (piston at TDC).
9. Remove the installation guide tool J 41682.
Figure 263 Camshaft Core Plug Installation
Page 243
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Camshaft Idler Gear Installation
264
[213 DE]
Before installing the idler gear/hub assembly,
determine which is the top mounting hole on the
hub.
The idler gear is held in place by a flanged hub
mounted to the cylinder block by three bolts.
Although the bolt-mounting pattern may appear
symmetrical, it is not. The non-symmetrical
mounting pattern ensures that oil feed passages
in the hub will be properly aligned with the oil feed
passage in the cylinder block, which lubricates
the idler gear hub bushing.
To aid in aligning the hub to the mounting holes in
the cylinder block, at the 12-oclock position
(engine upright), the hub mounting bolt hole is
identified by the word UP steel-stamped just
below the mounting hole.
1. With the engine in an upright position and
the hub correctly aligned with the mounting
bolt holes, place idler hub against the block
and verify good mounting hole alignment
(Figure 264).
Figure 264 Hub Correctly Positioned on Block
2. Align the timing marks. First look at the

timing marks on both the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. Note that two teeth are
marked (side by side) on each gear. These
two timing marks must align with the single
timing marks on the idler gear. When
properly installed, the two single timing
marks on the idler gear will fall between the
two timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. To attain correct
alignment, rotate the crankshaft and
camshaft gears until the camshaft timing
marks are in approximately the
3:30 position, and the crankshaft gear timing
marks are in approximately the 1 oclock
position (with engine in the upright position
and viewed from the front).
Page 244
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Auxiliary Shaft Installation
than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks align
only once every 16 revolutions of the crankshaft.
This is called a hunting tooth system.
3. Slide the idler gear onto the hub assembly
with timing marks facing out.
4. Position the idler gear timing marks so they
align (Figure 265) with the crankshaft and
camshaft gear timing marks. Then slide the
idler gear/hub assembly into position on the
cylinder block.
[212 CV]
Before installing the auxiliary shaft in the engine,
ensure that the shaft is clean, undamaged and
well-lubricated with clean engine oil. Refer to the
Auxiliary Shaft and Camshaft Bench Procedures
Replace the auxiliary shaft as an assembly only.

Do not try to dismantle or rework the shaft since
doing so may result in damage to the engine.
265
1. Lubricate the front auxiliary shaft journal (2),

rear auxiliary shaft journal (4) and shaft
bearings (in cylinder block) with clean
engine oil.
266
Figure 265 Timing Marks Properly Aligned
5. Oil the bolts with clean engine oil. Start the

bolts a few turns.
6. Tap the hub portion of the assembly with a
brass hammer to seat the components.
7. Tighten the bolts evenly to specification. Do
not use an impact wrench or other air tool to
tighten bolts.
Figure 266 Auxiliary Shaft Installation

1. Rear Bearing
2. Auxiliary Shaft Front
Journal
3. Shaft
4. Auxiliary Shaft Rear

Journal
5. Oil Pump Drive Gear
Page 245
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Install shaft (3) into the rear of the auxiliary
shaft housing. Use care when aligning the
shaft through the rear bearing (1).
3. Install the thrust washer (4) and secure it in
position with the patch-lock capscrews (3)
and hardened washers.
4. Tighten the thrust washer retaining patchlock capscrews to the specified torque,
5. Install the auxiliary shaft gear (2) on the
shaft splines (5).
The auxiliary shaft and nut threads must be clean

and dry before assembly. Clean the threads
thoroughly with Brakleen or electrical contact
cleaner. Apply Loctite 271 or 277 to the threads
and install the nut.
6. Install the auxiliary shaft nut (1) and tighten
using torque wrench J 23775-01, or
equivalent.
267
Oil Pump Installation

[219 MU]
Make sure the oil pump is in satisfactory condition
as covered under Lubrication System
Components Bench Procedures in the REPAIR
Because of differences in the E-Tech and E7

gear set helixes, it is important that the correct
component/parts are installed.
r


would result.

correct component/part is being used.
1. Position the oil pump (1) on the cylinder
block (3). Refer to Figure 268.
2. Secure the pump in position using the
mounting capscrews (2). Tighten the
mounting capscrews to the specified torque,
Apply Loctite 271 to all capscrews used to install

the oil pump.
Figure 267 Auxiliary Shaft Gear Installation

1. Nut
3. Capscrew
Page 246
4. Thrust Washer
5. Shaft Splines
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
268
Figure 268 Oil Pump Installation

1. Lubrication Oil Pump
3. Cylinder Block
Front Cover Installation

After the oil pump has been installed, check the
backlash between the auxiliary shaft gear and the
oil pump driven gear.
3. Check the auxiliary shaft gear to oil pump
driven gear backlash, 0.00720.0138 inch
(0.18290.3505 mm), using a thickness
gauge between the auxiliary shaft gear and
the oil pump driven gear.
[211 RP]
With the crankshaft, camshaft and auxiliary shaft
in place, install the front cover.
1. Apply a light coat of Silastic to the timing
cover mounting surface.
2. Position the timing cover on the cylinder
block mounting surface.
3. Secure the timing cover to the cylinder block
using the mounting capscrews. Torque the
capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using torque
4. Position the front pedestal mount on the
timing cover and secure with the mounting
hardware. Torque the pedestal mounting
capscrews to 70 lb-ft (95 Nm), using torque
Page 247
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Front Seal Installation
269
[211 JB]
r
Crankshaft Front Seal Installer J 37715-A
Crankshaft Front Seal Adapter J 37715-2
Installation depth of the E-Tech engine front

crankshaft seal, relative to the front crankshaft
stem, is controlled by the installation tool adapter.
Ensure that the correct adapter, J 37715-2, is
used.
1. Position the lip-type seal on the seal installer
(J 37715-2 adapter in combination with
J 37715-A), with the solid portion of the seal
outward (toward the tool).
2. Position the tool over hub and into the seal
opening.
Figure 269 Crankshaft Front Seal Installation

1. Front Cover Seal
2. Seal Installer J 37715-A
3. Front Cover
3. Insert the hub capscrew into the hole in the

seal installation tool and draw the seal in
until the tool bottoms out on the face of the
crankshaft.
4. Remove the tool and check the seal to
ensure it has been evenly installed.
Page 248
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Crankshaft Hub Installation
270
[212 RH]
INSPECTION
Inspect the crankshaft hub for scoring and
condition of the flange and threaded holes.
Replace the hub if the removed seal shows signs

of wear. Mack Trucks, Inc. does not recommend
the use of a service sleeve to repair the
crankshaft hub when there is hub damage. When
there is damage to the hub, replace it.
1. Using a suitable grease-type lubricant, coat
the working surface of the seal in
preparation for the crankshaft hub
installation.
Teflon-type seals do not require greasing the

working surface of the seal.
2. Heat the hub to approximately 250F
(121C) prior to installation.
Figure 270 Crankshaft Hub/Vibration Damper

1. Crankshaft
2. Crankshaft Hub
3. Vibration Damper
4. Pulley
5. Damper/Puller
Capscrews and Washers
6. Hub Capscrew
Vibration Damper Installation

[212 RB]
INSPECTION
3. Using heat-resistant gloves, position the hub

on the crankshaft.
While the crankshaft has a keyway slot, the

crankshaft hub does not. For the E-Tech
engine, timing is set in relation to the flywheel
position and not the crankshaft hub, eliminating
the need for a hub key and precise alignment.
4. In a quick, even motion, push the hub onto
the crankshaft.
5. Install the hub washer and capscrew.
Tighten the capscrew to the specified
wrench J 23775-01, or equivalent.
When removing or handling the vibration damper,

be careful not to damage the housing. Any dents
in the outer housing may render the damper
ineffective and result in cracks in the crankshaft.
The vibration damper cannot be repaired.
Inspect the vibration damper for dents, nicks or
fluid leaks in the outer housing. If any of the
above are evident, the vibration damper must be
replaced. Due to the close clearances between
the damper housing and its internal flywheel,
dents or nicks may cause contact between the
two components. Fluid loss will deteriorate the
dampening effect of the damper.
Page 249
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Position the vibration damper and drive
pulley on the crankshaft hub.
2. Install the six mounting capscrews. Tighten
the capscrews to the specified torque,
45 lb-ft (61 Nm).
Oil Pan Installation

[211 NB]
GENERAL INFORMATION
With the isolating oil pan gasket arrangement,
8-mm mounting holes are tapped into the cylinder
block, front cover and flywheel housing.
Figure 271 shows the production arrangement.
Through late August 1999, the isolated oil pan

gasket mounting arrangement used shoulder
studs to secure the oil pan to the front timing
cover, flywheel housing and at certain locations
along the oil pan sides. Beginning approximately
late August 1999, the shoulder studs at the timing
cover and flywheel housing were changed to
shoulder capscrews (part No. 421GC289M), and,
approximately fourth quarter 1999, the shoulder
studs with a separate nut used at locations on the
sides of the oil pan were changed to a one-piece
integral hex-head shoulder stud assembly
(part No. 616GC39M3).
Prior to the fourth quarter 1999 introduction of the
one-piece integral hex-head shoulder stud
assembly, flat washers (part No. 37AX68) were
added to the shoulder studs (part No.
616GC239M) to compensate for the gap between
the nut and the shoulder stud and to ensure
sufficient clamp load to the gasket. This change
went into effect February 22, 1999, beginning
with engine serial No. 9C2735.
271
Figure 271 Oil Pan Stud Identification
Page 250
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
The isolating oil pan gasket contains 12 integral
locating/retaining cones which lock into holes
drilled through the oil pan rails, and two large
rectangular tabs located directly across from
each other on the inner perimeter of the gasket.
The cones keep the gasket properly located
during oil pan installation, and the rectangular
tabs serve as a starting point for locating the
gasket on the oil pan rail.
4. In one motion, firmly press down on the

gasket with one hand while carefully pulling
the rubber cone through the hole with the
other hand until seated (Figure 273).
Continue this procedure for the remaining
locating cones.
273
1. Clean any oil from the cylinder block
mounting surface and the oil pan rail. The oil
pan must be installed dry.
Oil on the surface of the gasket or the rails of the

cylinder block and oil pan during the oil pan
installation can cause the gasket to bulge out
between any two bolts, particularly those at the
mid-section corners. This condition may not occur
immediately, but can do so at any time after
installation. To avoid this occurrence, wipe any oil
from the inner walls of the cylinder block
crankcase and then clean the rails of the cylinder
block and oil pan with a suitable non-flammable
solvent. Dry the cleaned surfaces completely.
2. Position the isolating oil pan gasket on the
oil pan rails with the ribbed side facing up.
3. Beginning at the center of the pan at one of
the rectangular tabs, align the rubber
locating cones with corresponding holes in
the pan rails (Figure 272).
272
Figure 273 Locating Cone Installation
5. Visually check the underside of the pan rail

to ensure that all locating cones are properly
seated.
During removal of the isolating oil pan from the

engine, the studs may have backed out while
loosening the stud nuts. Be sure they are fully
seated prior to installing the oil pan.
6. When installing the oil pan on the engine,
center the pan before tightening the
fasteners so that the edges of the metal
isolator washers do not touch the pan. Refer
to Figure 274.
On engines manufactured prior to fourth quarter

1999 (having a separate nut), install the flat
washer (part No. 37AX68) with the shoulder
studs. These flat washers are not necessary, and
should not be used with the one-piece integral
hex-head shoulder studs.
Figure 272 Locating Cone Alignment
Page 251
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cylinder Head Installation
274
[213 EV]
Ensure that the cylinder heads are in acceptable
condition. Refer to the cylinder head inspection
procedures under Cylinder Head Reconditioning
All MACK head gaskets are precoated and do not

require any type of additional sealing compound.
1. Place the head gaskets in position on the
locating pins in the cylinder block deck.
2. Place a fire ring carefully in position on top of
each cylinder sleeve.
Check that the design of the fire ring used is the

correct match for the cylinder sleeves installed.
Figure 274 Checking Clearance
1. Cylinder Block
2. Oil Pan
3. Rubber Gasket
3. Position the partially assembled cylinder

heads (valves, nozzle holder sleeves, core/
pipe plugs installed) on the cylinder block.
Locate the heads into the guide pins in the
cylinder block.
Two of the head mounting capscrews have

threaded holes drilled in the heads for bracketmounting purposes. The drilled capscrews must
be located in the correct positions for proper
bracket installation.
Page 252
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
275
Figure 275 Cylinder Head Gasket and Fire Ring Positioning

1. Cylinder Head
2. Fire Rings
3. Gasket
4. Check the condition of the capscrews and

lubricate the capscrew heads (underside),
threads and washers with clean engine oil.
Do not install painted capscrews at locations that

are under the valve cover.
4. Guide Pins
5. Cylinder Block
6. Check the alignment of the cylinder heads

by placing a straightedge against the
exhaust manifold mounting surfaces
(Figure 276). Using a feeler gauge, measure
any gaps between the straightedge and
manifold mounting surfaces. The heads
should be in alignment within 0.005 inch
(0.127 mm). If not, reposition the heads to
achieve the specified alignment.
5. Insert the capscrews in the mounting holes.

Tighten all cylinder head capscrews fingertight. (There are two cylinder head capscrew
lengths: 198.0 mm and 225.0 mm.)
Page 253
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
276
Figure 276 Cylinder Head Alignment

1. Cylinder Heads
2. Cylinder Block
Page 254
3. Straightedge
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
7. Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses,
capscrew threads and washers with engine
oil prior to assembly. Do not oil threads in
cylinder block. Using torque wrench
J 24407, or equivalent, tighten all cylinder
head mounting capscrews to specification in
three stages as listed below. Refer to
Figure 277 for the tightening sequence.
a.
Tighten all capscrews in sequence to

50 lb-ft (68 Nm).
b.

125 lb-ft (170 Nm).
c.

the final specified torque value of
205 lb-ft (278 Nm).
277
Figure 277 Head Bolt Torque Sequence Chart
Exhaust Manifold Installation
278
[214 EG]
MANIFOLD STUD INSTALLATION
Apply Loctite 272 to the cylinder head
engagement threads of all exhaust studs, prior to
installation.
Lower exhaust stud holes intersect with the push

rod holes; upper exhaust holes may intersect as
well. This requires that all exhaust studs be
sealed at installation to prevent oil leakage.
On some E-Tech engines, the lower exhaust
manifold-to-cylinder head stud hole may be
drilled deep enough to allow the stud to enter the
push rod bore. In these instances, the 20 lb-ft
(27 Nm) of torque may not be reached until the
stud contacts the push rod. In all cases, a stud
protrusion of 1.75 inch (44.45 mm) must be
maintained. Refer to Figure 278.
Figure 278 Exhaust Stud Protrusion
Page 255
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Position the exhaust manifold on the
mounting studs and secure with nuts.
Tighten the nuts to the specified torque:
MANIFOLD INSTALLATION
1. Install the 12 studs in position on the
cylinder head.
2. Position six manifold gaskets on the studs.
55 lb-ft (75 Nm) for 10-mm nuts
65 lb-ft (88 Nm) for 12-mm nuts
279
Exhaust manifold nuts must be installed dry (no

lubrication).
Figure 279 Typical Exhaust Manifold Installation
Page 256
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Nozzle Holder Assembly Installation
[222 KG]
GENERAL INFORMATION
The nozzle holder is positioned vertically in the
cylinder head and centered in the cylinder
between the four valves. The nozzle fuel inlet
tube is inserted through the side of the cylinder
head and the tapered end of the inlet tube seals
the area between the tube and the nozzle holder.
The tube is secured in position with a sleeve nut.
Care must be taken with either method of

installation to NOT misposition the gasket. If mispositioned, the washer may be damaged and
result in severe combustion leakage.
280

r
Injection Nozzle Puller J 37093
1. Install the washer-type gasket in place on
the bottom of the nozzle, using a small dab
of grease to hold it in place.
Figure 280 Nozzle Holder Gasket Installation
1. Washer
An alternate method is to drop the washer in the

nozzle holder sleeve bore as shown in
Figure 280. Make sure the washer-type gasket is
centered and lying flat in the bottom of the nozzle
holder sleeve bore.
2. Nozzle
2. Lubricate the surface of the nozzle holder

with clean engine oil and install the two
O-rings on the holder.
3. Thread injection nozzle puller J 37093 into
the top of nozzle holder as shown in
Figure 281.
Page 257
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
281
282
Figure 282 Nozzle Holder Alignment

1. Cylinder Head
2. Nozzle Holder
3. Locator Pin and Sleeve

Notch Must Align.
5. After ensuring that the nozzle holder locator

pin is properly aligned with the alignment
notch in the nozzle holder sleeve, push
downward on the handle of the installation
tool driving the nozzle holder into position.
283
Figure 281 Puller Application

1. Nozzle Holder Puller
J 37093
2. Nozzle Holder
4. Insert the nozzle holder in the nozzle holder

sleeve. Be sure to align the locator pin in the
nozzle holder with the notch in the nozzle
holder sleeve to ensure inlet tube alignment.
Figure 283 Nozzle Holder Installation
6. Remove the tool from the nozzle holder and

insert the gauge block on the end of the tool
handle.
Page 258
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
7. Insert the gauge block into the nozzle holder
sleeve bore. The gauge block should be
flush with the top surface of the cylinder
head nozzle sleeve bore. Refer to
Figure 284.
8. Lubricate the threads of the retaining plug

and install it as shown in Figure 285. Tighten
the plug to the specified torque, 45 lb-ft
equivalent.
285
If the gauge block is below the surface,

it may indicate that the gasket was
omitted.
If the gauge block is too high, it may

indicate that there are two gaskets
installed under the nozzle holder, or the
nozzle holder has not been fully
inserted.
If a gauge block is not available,

measure the distance from the top
surface of the cylinder head sleeve
bore to the top of the nozzle holder. The
nominal measurement should be
0.564 inch (14.326 mm).
284
Figure 285 Retaining Plug Installation
Push Rod Installation

[213 LH]
Check the condition of the push rods before
installing them. Replace any rods that have loose
ends, are bent, or show signs of excessive wear.
Used push rods have established wear patterns.

Push rods being returned to service should be
installed in the same position from which they
were removed.
When installing new push rods, make sure that
the correct replacement rods are used. There are
differences in the rods used for engines with or
without an engine brake.
1. Apply lubricating oil to the spherical end of
the push rod and insert it into the respective
lifter opening. Ensure that it has engaged
the lifter by lifting it slightly. If the lifter has
been properly contacted, some resistance
will be felt in the rod as the lifter is raised.
Figure 284 Nozzle Holder Installation Check
1. Nozzle Holder Puller
J 37093
2. Gauge Block
2. Repeat step 1 until all 12 push rods are in

position.
Page 259
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Yoke Installation
287
[213 NV]
(Non-Brake and J-Tech Brake
Equipped)
There are two exhaust valves and two inlet valves
for each cylinder. Each rocker arm, in conjunction
with the valve yoke, operates both valves
together as a set (exhaust or inlet). The E-Tech
engine yokes are no longer identified with a
raised letter E cast into the surface. E-Tech
yokes must now be identified by shape only. Two
ways of identifying shape are by looking at the
nose end of the valve yoke. The E-Tech yoke
has the nose end of the slipper pad area ground
flat as shown in Figure 28.
286
Figure 287 Valve Yoke Side View
Do not interchange yokes. If an E-Tech valve

yoke is used on an E7 engine, the valve keepers
will dislodge and cause a dropped valve, resulting
in severe engine damage. If an E7 valve yoke is
used on a J-Tech equipped E-Tech engine,
the yoke will disengage from the valve stem tip
during engine brake operation.
Figure 286 E-Tech, E6, E7 and E9 Valve Yokes
(Top View)
The second method of identifying the E-Tech

valve yoke is by viewing the yoke from the side,
the top surface of the adjusting screw end will
appear on the same plane as the bottom surface
of the button-head. On the E6, E7 and E9 valve
yoke, the top surface of the adjusting screw area
is 0.145 below the bottom surface of the buttonhead. Refer to Figure 287 for an illustration of
these differences.
Used yokes have established wear patterns.

Yokes being returned to service should be
installed in the same position from which they
were removed.
Refer to Figure 288. The valve yoke installation
procedure for both non-brake and brakeequipped engines follows.
1. Lubricate the yoke guide pins (6) (if
equipped) with clean engine oil.
Page 260
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Place the valve yokes (4) on the yoke guide
pins from which they were removed for both
inlet and exhaust (early production) or
exhaust only (engine serial No. 0D0120 or
later). Current-production engines use a
pinless yoke at the inlet positions. The
pinless yokes are installed over two inlet
valves with the notch and the elongated hole
facing away from the rocker arm as shown in
Figure 289.
288
Figure 288 Valve Yoke

1. Rocker Arm
2. Yoke Adjusting Screw
3. Jam Nut
4. Valve Yoke
5. Valve Stem
6. Yoke Guide Pin
When installing pinless yokes, the end of the yoke

with the two notches must face away from the
valve rocker shaft. If the yoke is installed
incorrectly, it will contact the rocker arm. See
Figure 289.
289
Figure 289 Proper Assembly of the Pinless Valve Yoke
3. Slightly rock the yokes from side-to-side to

be sure they are seated on the valve stems.
Rocker Arm and Engine Brake

Installation
[213 LP]
The exhaust valve yokes on engines equipped

with the J-Tech engine brake use an actuator
pin assembly, part No. 421GC41M, in place of the
standard yoke adjusting screw. Ensure that the
yokes with actuator pin assemblies are in position
over the exhaust valves.
The valve rocker arm assemblies are nearly

identical on non-brake and brake-equipped
engines. There are two differences, however, on
engines equipped with the J-Tech engine
brake:
r
Revised adjusting screws with spherical jam

nuts replace the standard adjusting screws
and jam nuts on the exhaust rocker arms.
An oil supply screw replaces the locating

screw and lock washer on the rocker arm
mounting bracket.
Page 261
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSTALLATION (NON-BRAKE EQUIPPED
ENGINES)
1. Make sure the locating screw and lock
washer are in position on the rocker arm
mounting bracket for each cylinder head.
INSTALLATION (J-TECH BRAKE-EQUIPPED

ENGINES)
2. Make sure that all 12 push rods are properly

seated in the respective lifter sockets.
1. Make sure the oil supply screw is in position

on the rocker arm mounting bracket for each
cylinder head and tightened to specification,
5 lb-ft (6.8 Nm).
3. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the

cylinder heads.
2. Make sure that all 12 push rods are properly

seated in the respective lifter sockets.
4. Ensure that the ball end of the rocker arm

adjusting screws (inlet and exhaust) are in
position in the push rod sockets, and line up
the rocker bracket mounting holes with the
holes in the cylinder head. Be careful not to
disengage any of the push rods from the
lifters.
3. Position the rocker arm assemblies on the

cylinder heads.
Make sure that adjusting screws are retracted

upward in the rocker arms. If extended far below
the rocker arm, the push rods can be bent when
tightening the rocker arm assembly brackets.
5. Lubricate the threads of the rocker arm
mounting capscrews with clean engine oil.
Install the capscrews and tighten to the
torque wrench J 24407, or equivalent. Refer
to Figure 290.
6. Adjust the valve lash to the specified
settings. Refer to Valve Yoke and Valve Lash
Adjustments in the ENGINE SETUP AND
ADJUSTMENTS section.
290
4. Ensure that the ball end of the rocker arm

adjusting screws are in position in the push
rod sockets, and line up the rocker bracket
mounting holes with the holes in the cylinder
head. Be careful not to disengage any of the
push rods from the lifters.
Make sure that adjusting screws (inlet and

exhaust) are fully retracted upward in the rocker
arms. If extended far below the rocker arm, the
push rods can be bent when tightening the rocker
arm assembly brackets.
5. Loosen the three slave piston adjusting
screw jam nuts on each brake assembly and
back out the adjusting screws so that the
slave pistons are fully retracted into the
housings.
6. Carefully place each housing on the
appropriate rocker arm shaft assembly so
the oil supply screw engages the locating
hole in the brake housing.
7. Lubricate the threads of the brake housing
mounting bolts with clean engine oil and
install the bolts in the housing mounting bolt
holes. Ensure that the correct mounting
bolts are used:
Bolt P/N 416GC22M use with housing
P/N 757GB58.
Bolt P/N 421GC314M use with housing
P/Ns 757GB58A and 757GB58B.
Figure 290 Valve Rocker Arm Installation

1. Rocker Arm Mounting Brackets
Page 262
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
8. Starting with the center pair of mounting
bolts, tighten all six bolts on each housing
just enough to seat the housing on the
rocker shaft brackets. Make sure the brake
housings come down level to avoid possible
damage to the rocker shaft brackets. Also,
make sure that all of the push rods remain
properly engaged at both ends.
9. After each brake housing is seated on the

cylinder head, tighten the mounting bolts to
10. Adjust the valve lash to the specified
settings. Refer to Valve Yoke, Valve Lash
and Slave Piston Adjustments in the
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS
section.
291
Figure 291 Rocker Arm Shaft and J-Tech Engine Brake Components
1. Valve Cover
2. Spacer
3. Long Capscrew
5. Exhaust Adjusting Screw
6. Standard Adjusting Screw And Jam Nut (Inlet Valves)
7. Cylinder Head
8.
9.
10.
11.
Exhaust Valve Yokes

Actuator Pin Assembly
Rocker Arm Shaft Assembly
Oil Supply Screw (New Style Design with Integral Check
Valve)*
12. Slave Piston Adjusting Screw
13. Engine Brake Assembly
* A new oil supply screw assembly has been released for the J-Tech engine brake. This new screw incorporates an oil supply
check valve, eliminating the need for the oil supply check valve components in the engine brake housing.
Page 263
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Valve Cover and Spacer Installation
292
[213 JB]
GENERAL INFORMATION
The valve cover (and spacer, if equipped with an

engine brake) requires a strip-type seal valve
cover gasket, 51 inches (130 cm) in length.
Sealing compounds are not necessary.
Early-production engines (before October 1998)
were built with non-isolating cover-mounting
hardware. Valve covers for this mounting
arrangement had cutouts at three corners of the
cover flange. October 1998 and later-production
engines are built with isolating-type valve cover
mounting hardware to reduce noise. The valve
covers on these later-production engines have
only one cutout in the flange.
INSTALLATION
Figure 292 Gasket Installation
Installation procedures for the spacer and valve

cover seal are identical.
1. Install a seal strip (2) in the seal grooves (3)
of the spacers.
a.
Thoroughly clean the gasket contact

surface.
b.
Install one end of the spacer gasket

into the seal groove (inboard side)
approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm) from
the end of the groove.
c.
Page 264
Guide the seal strip into the groove

around the circumference of the
spacer. Complete the installation with
an overlap at the starting point,
1. Valve Cover
2. Seal Strip
3. Seal Groove
2. Position the spacers on the cylinder heads.

3. Connect the actuator wire to the actuator.
4. Install a seal strip in the valve cover seal
groove of the valve covers.
a.
Thoroughly clean the gasket contact

surface.
b.
Install one end of the valve cover

gasket into the seal groove (inboard
side) approximately 1/4 inch (6.4 mm)
from the end of the groove.
c.
Guide the seal strip into the groove

around the circumference of the valve
cover. Complete the installation with an
overlap at the starting point,
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Position the valve covers (1) on the cylinder
heads or on the spacers (4), if so equipped,
as shown in Figure 293.
6. Lubricate the threads of the capscrews (2)
and secure the valve covers with the
lubricated capscrews. Tighten the
capscrews to the specified torque, 16 lb-ft
(22 Nm).
293
Oil Fill Tube Installation

1. Add a bead of RTV sealant on the mounting
flange around the fill tube opening.
2. Position the fill tube on the cylinder block
and install the capscrews.
3. Tighten the capscrews to specification,
15 lb-ft (20 Nm).
Figure 293 Valve Cover Installation

1. Valve Cover
2. Capscrew
3. Actuator
4. Spacer
Page 265
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine ECU/Cooling Plate
Installation
[230 EA]
(Right-Side Mounted Assembly)

1. Install the four mounting studs in the cylinder
block.
2. Install the four isolating washers on the
studs and install the cooling plate.
3. Position the EECU on the cooling plate, and
install the isolating washers and fasteners.
Tighten fasteners to specification.
The following procedure applies for an EECU

with cooling plate mounted on the right side of the
engine. The procedure for the left-side mounted
unit is covered later in this section.
294
Figure 294 Engine ECU/Cooling Plate Installation (Right-Side Mounted Unit)

1. Engine Electronic Control Unit (EECU)
2. EECU Cooling Plate
3. Coolant Fitting
Page 266
4. Cylinder Block
5. Mounting Studs
6. Isolating Washers
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Compressor Installation
[261 CK]
1. Install a new gasket on the air compressor

mounting flange.
2. Check to ensure that the lubrication oil
supply tube (2) is in place and position the
air compressor (1) on the mounting flange.
If the compressor drive coupling has been

removed or a replacement compressor is being
installed, air compressor coupling holder tool
J 41071 will be required to hold the compressor
shaft while the coupling nut is being torqued.
Torque coupling nut to 60 lb-ft (81 Nm). Do not
use air impact wrench (air gun), use an
accurately calibrated torque wrench such as
If the oil supply tube is lost, the air compressor

will fail from lack of oil.
3. Install the three mounting capscrews (5) and
tighten to the specified torque, 70 lb-ft
equivalent.
4. Reconnect the coolant lines to the air
compressor cylinder head.
295
Figure 295 Air Compressor Installation

1. Air Compressor
2. Oil Supply Tube
3. Auxiliary Shaft
4. Oil Drain Openings

5. Capscrew
Page 267
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Electronic Unit Pump Installation
296
[221 GP]
TAPPET INSTALLATION
1. Clean the cylinder block at the mounting
surface and bore, if required.
Use only a soft rag and solvent to clean the

cylinder block. Minor fretting at the EUP mounting
surface is acceptable.
Figure 296 Unit Pump Installation
2. Generously lubricate the roller tappet with

clean engine oil and carefully install it into
the bore, pushing it down until it contacts the
camshaft lobe. The slot in the roller tappet
MUST be oriented outward to align with the
pin in the bore. Once installed, the roller
tappet should slide freely in the bore.
3. Reinstall the EUP screws and tighten evenly

to draw the EUP into the cylinder block
(Figure 297). Tighten the screws to the
specified torque, 42 lb-ft (57 Nm).
297
The tappet guide pins in the EUP bores are

factory-installed in all cylinder blocks and should
not be removed.
PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Install new O-rings on each of the EUP
assemblies.
2. Generously lubricate the EUP O-rings with
clean engine oil and install the No. 1 EUP
into the cylinder block (Figure 296).
Figure 297 Tightening Unit Pump Fasteners
4. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to install the five

remaining EUP assemblies.
Minimize oil above the top O-ring to avoid
weepage of excess oil (trapped above the top
O-ring) onto the cylinder block.
To avoid O-ring damage, the cam lobe must be

positioned with the base circle up prior to
installation of each EUP. Do not use the starter to
rotate the engine; instead, use the flywheel
barring tool.
Page 268
If an EUP has been replaced with a new unit, the

new unit must be calibrated as described under
Engine Setup and Adjustments in the REPAIR
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Wiring Harness Installation
1. Position the wiring harness on the engine
and secure it with the attaching hardware.
3. Connect the line (1) at the No. 1 unit pump.

Tighten the clamping screw and sleeve nuts
to the specified torque, using torque wrench
2. Connect the harness at each of the EUP

terminals.
Line clamping screw at cylinder head:

35 lb-ft (47 Nm)
3. Connect the harness at the EECU. Make

sure the locking tabs are in place.
Line nut at cylinder head clamping

screw: 25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
4. Connect the harness to any sensors now

installed or as reassembly progresses.
Line nut at EUP: 25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly

Installation
[222 KD]
1. Lubricate the nozzle inlet tube clamping
screw threads for each assembly before
installing.
An open-ended crows foot adapter is required

with the torque wrench for installation of nozzle
fuel inlet tube assemblies. Avoid twisting the lines
when tightening the sleeve nuts.
4. Repeat steps 1 through 3 for the five
remaining fuel nozzle inlet tube assemblies.
298
2. Install the fuel nozzle inlet tube assembly for

the No. 1 cylinder into the cylinder head until
light contact is made with the nozzle holder.
Lightly tighten the clamping screw and then
lightly tighten the fuel inlet tube sleeve nut
(2).
The fuel nozzle inlet tube assemblies are

identical for all six cylinders.
Figure 298 Fuel Nozzle Inlet Tube Assembly
Installation
1. EUP Sleeve Nut
2. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamping

Screw and Sleeve Nut
Page 269
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Turbocharger Installation
[214 SC]
(Includes Pre-Lubing Procedures)
1. Inspect the intake and exhaust systems
leading to and from the turbocharger to
ensure absence of foreign material,
including burrs and loose lining fragments.
A thorough inspection is required as even small

particles can cause severe rotor damage if
inducted during high-speed operation.
2. Use new and approved gaskets at the
various air, oil and exhaust connections to
the turbocharger. Avoid the use of sealing or
jointing compounds at all flanged
connections.
3. Use a high-temperature, anti-seize
compound (such as Fel Pro C5A) on all
threaded fasteners connected to the
turbocharger.
4. Position the turbocharger (1) over the
mounting studs on the exhaust manifold.
5. Install the four mounting nuts (5) and tighten
6. Fill the oil inlet port to overflowing with clean
engine oil before connecting the oil feed
hose to the turbocharger.
7. Install the lubrication feed hose (2).
Page 270
8. If the clamp plates or V-bands are loosened

for angular orientation of the compressor
cover or turbine housing, ensure that the
mating flanges are tightly seated and that
the fasteners are snug but will still allow
cover orientation.
Complete the orientation of the cover and
housing before making any rigid connections
to the compressor inlet or to the turbine
outlet. Tighten the clamp plate capscrews
(used on Schwitzer model S300
turbocharger only) to the specified torque,
140 lb-in (16 Nm), if equipped, and V-band
retaining nuts, 90 lb-in (10 Nm), using
torque wrench J 5853-C, or equivalent. Then
make certain that all ducting aligns closely
with the turbocharger. This minimizes
external stresses acting on the unit.
9. Before connecting the drain hose, crank the
engine without firing until a steady stream of
oil flows from the drain port.
10. Install the lubrication drain tube (4) and
tighten the capscrews (3) to the specified
11. Install the clamp securing the lubrication
drain tube to the oil fill tube.
12. Operate the engine at low idle for at least
three minutes after completing the
installation of the turbocharger.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Position a gasket on the water pump
mounting flange.
299
2. Position the pump on the cylinder block and

install the three mounting capscrews (3).
3. Install the refrigerant compressor support
bracket, if required, on the front of the
cylinder head with the appropriate mounting
hardware. (Insert a spacer if the refrigerant
compressor support bracket and fan ring
arrangement are not used.)
300
Figure 299 Turbocharger Installation

1. Turbocharger
2. Lubrication Supply Hose
3. Capscrew
4. Lubrication Drain Tube

5. Mounting Nut
Water Pump Installation

[215 SW]
Figure 300 Water Pump Installation
The water pump-to-housing mounting capscrews

should not be lubricated before installation.
Instead, apply thread sealing compound to all
water pump-to-water pump housing capscrews.
Also apply thread sealing compound to the water
pump housing (pump outlet) to cylinder block
capscrews.
1. Air Compressor Line

2. Water Pump
3. Capscrew
Page 271
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting
Bracket Installation
[215 DW and 219 EP]
MOUNTING BRACKET WITH CENTRI-MAX
PLUS (INTERNALLY DRAINED)
(Current Production)
If the engine is equipped with the currentproduction plate-type oil cooler, the oil cooler and
oil filter mounting bracket assembly cannot be
installed until after the engine has been removed
from the repair stand. The procedure for this
configuration is covered as the last item in this
section.
2. Screw the spuds into the filter adapter until

they protrude 0.703 inch (17.856 mm) when
measured from the bottom of the spud to the
sealing surface of the oil filter head
assembly. To ensure that the spuds are
secure in the adapter housing, they may be
staked by using a small punch to make a
small indentation between the threads of the
spud and the adapter.
3. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite 609 or
271 around the circumference of the fitting
between the second and fifth threads of the
upper end of the Centri-Max fitting. Install
the fitting and tighten to the specified torque,
135165 lb-ft (183224 Nm), using torque
wrench J 24407, or equivalent. DO NOT
stake the Centri-Max fitting.
301
REMOVABLE BUNDLE-TYPE OIL COOLER

AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING BRACKET WITH
CENTRI-MAX (EXTERNALLY DRAINED)
(Early Production)
If the engine is equipped with the early production
removable bundle-type oil cooler, the oil cooler
and oil filter mounting bracket assembly can be
installed at this point of reassembly using the
procedures that follow.
ASSEMBLING A NEW OIL FILTER ADAPTER
(IF REPLACED)
A new oil filter mounting bracket does not come
as a complete assembly. If the adapter on an oil
filter mounting bracket is being replaced, the
fittings, nipples, spuds, etc., must be installed
before installing the filter mounting bracket on the
engine. Perform the following procedures before
installing the threaded spuds into the filter
adapter.
1. Apply a continuous bead of Loctite 609 or
271 around the circumference of the spud,
between the second and fifth threads from
the upper end.
Page 272
Figure 301 Oil Filter Adapter Assembly

1. Adapter Housing
2. Filter Adapter Fitting
3. Filter Adapter Fitting
(Centri-Max)
4. Pilot Ring Washer
5. Pilot Ring
6. Gasket
7. Gauge Connector
Elbow
8. Vent Fitting
10. Oil Filter Bypass Valve
Plunger Assembly
11. Adapter Gasket
12. Insert
13. Spacer
14. Wiring Harness
Bracket
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
6. Place a gasket on the water pump mounting
flange (2).
The oil cooler and oil filter mounting bracket
assembly can be installed separately, but
assembling them together on a bench is easier
and reduces the possibility of damaging the
O-ring seals.
7. Lubricate the threads of the two mounting

capscrews (1) and insert the capscrews to
secure the oil cooler flange (2) to the water
pump. Tighten the capscrews to the
8. Tighten the oil supply housing capscrews

(10) to the torque, 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using

1. Lubricate the oil cooler supply tube (5) with
Vaseline, or equivalent.
2. Position the coupling (4) over the lubricated
tube.
3. Place two clamps (3) over the coupling.
9. Tighten the clamps (3) to the specified

torque, 38 lb-in (4.3 Nm).
10. Connect the oil hose (8) to the fitting (9).
11. Coat the threads of the oil sending unit (12)
with sealing compound and install the unit in
the oil filter adapter assembly (13).
4. Place a gasket on the oil supply mounting

flange (11).
5. Position the oil cooler and oil filter mounting
adapter assembly on the engine. Slide the
coupling (4) over the thermostat housing
flange. Lubricate the threads of the
capscrews (10) and insert the capscrews
into the mounting flange. Do not tighten the
capscrews at this time.
Page 273
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
302
Figure 302 Removable Bundle-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly Installation
1. Capscrew
2. Water Pump Mounting Flange
3. Clamps
4. Coupling
5. Oil Cooler Supply Tube (Water Bypass Tube)
6. Oil Filter/Cooler Assembly
7. Vent Fitting
Coolant Manifold Installation

[215 NK]
INSPECTION
Check the coolant manifold sections for
restrictions, cracks and flange wear. The manifold
cannot be repaired. Replace if any signs of
damage are present.
Page 274
8. Oil Hose
9. Fitting
10. Capscrew
11. Oil Supply Mounting Flange
12. Sending Unit
13. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Assembly
1. Ensure that the front coolant manifold

section (1) is clean. Position a coolant/air
inlet manifold gasket on the mounting
surface.
2. Lubricate threads of the capscrews (5) with
clean engine oil and secure the front coolant
manifold section in place with the mounting
capscrews.
Early-production engines use hex-head

capscrews and washers; later-production engines
use flangehead capscrews.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Place couple (2) in position on the couple
mounting flange. Place two clamps (3) over
the couple.
6. Lubricate threads of the mounting

capscrews (5) and secure the rear manifold
section with the mounting capscrews.
4. Insert the rear manifold section (4) in the

couple.
7. Tighten all mounting capscrews to the

5. Place a gasket between the mounting

surfaces of the rear manifold section and the
cylinder head.
8. Ensure that the couple is properly installed

and secure it in position with the clamps.
Tighten the clamps to the specified torque,
38 lb-in (4.3 Nm).
303
Figure 303 Coolant Manifold and Air Inlet Manifold Installation (Shown with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold)
1. Coolant Manifold, Front Section
2. Couple
3. Clamp
4. Coolant Manifold, Rear Section
5. Capscrew
6. Air Inlet Manifold, Rear Section

7. Inlet Air Temperature Sensor (Sending Unit)
8. Air Inlet Manifold, Front Section
Page 275
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Air Inlet Manifold Installation
[214 HD]
1. For two-piece manifolds place the front air
inlet manifold section (8) into position on the
cylinder head and insert the 12-point
capscrews (9) and washers. Current
production one-piece manifolds are
positioned on the cylinder heads with all the
retaining 12-point capscrews inserted.
Thermostat, Housing and Seal

Installation
[215 NU, NG & LD]
2. Torque capscrews to 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using

1. When replacing a seal for any reason,

examine the surface of the thermostat
sleeve, the bore area and the seal to prevent
premature failure of the new seal. A sealing
lip that has been turned back, cut or
otherwise damaged will leak and must be
replaced. The lip faces the front of the
engine.
3. For two-piece manifolds, place the coupling

on the rear of the front air inlet section (8).
Assemble two clamps on the coupling and
install the rear air inlet section (6).
2. Remove any surface nicks, burrs, sharp

edges and tool marks from the thermostat
sleeve and housing bore area using crocus
cloth.
4. Continue assembling the two-piece manifold

by inserting the 12-point capscrews and
torque to 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using torque
3. Check to see that the replacement seals are

free from any contaminants such as chips,
grit, dust or any other debris that would
prevent the seal from properly seating in the
thermostat housing.
5. Tighten the clamps on the coupling and

torque to 38 lb-in (4.3 Nm).
304
4. Press the seal into the housing bore with

smooth, uniform pressure, using seal
installation tool J 26637-A and driver handle
J 8092.
Tool J 26637-A is designed to regulate the

thermostat seal installation depth. The shoulder
on the tool bottoms on the thermostat bore of the
housing to prevent the seal from being installed
too far.
Figure 304 One-Piece Air Inlet Manifold (Current

Production)
Page 276
Wherever possible, an arbor press should be

used to apply assembly pressure. The use of a
hammer is not recommended since uneven
pressure would be applied directly to seal
surfaces. Precautions should be taken against
cocking the seal throughout the installation
operation. Make sure the seal is not cocked when
installed.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Position the thermostat (7) in the housing (5)
with the jiggle pin or caged ball up.
7. Position the housing assembly on the

coolant manifold (9) mounting surface.
6. Install a gasket (8) on the housing mounting

surface.
8. Secure in position with two lower mounting

capscrews (13).
305
Figure 305 Thermostat Housing Installation

1. Capscrew
2. Coolant Conditioner Adapter Assembly (if Equipped)
3. Check Valve (if Equipped)
4. O-Ring
5. Thermostat Housing
6. Thermostat Seal
7. Thermostat
8. Gasket
9. Coolant Manifold
10. Clamps
11. Oil Cooler Supply (Bypass) Tube
12. Coupling (Hose)
13. Capscrew
14. Coolant Conditioner Filter Element (if Equipped)
Page 277
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Coolant Conditioner Installation
306

1. Position a check valve assembly (3) in the
coolant conditioner head assembly (2). The
ball end of the check valve must be inserted
first.
2. Position an O-ring (4) in the O-ring recess of
the head assembly.
3. Install the head assembly (2) on the
thermostat housing (5) and secure with
capscrews (1).
5. Apply a light film of engine coolant on the
face of the coolant conditioner filter gasket
seal.
6. Install the coolant conditioner filter element
(14). Turn the coolant conditioner filter one
full turn after the gasket contacts base. Use
tool J 24783 to tighten.
Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly

Installation
Figure 306 Fuel Filter Adapter Assembly Installation

with Two-Piece Air Inlet Manifold
[231 PB]
1. Install the fuel filter adapter (1) to the air inlet
manifold (7).
2. Install the three capscrews (4) and tighten to
the specified torque, 35 lb-ft (48 Nm).
3. Install the three fuel lines to the fittings
(2, 3 and 5) and tighten to the specified
Page 278

Assembly
(Out)
(In)
4. Capscrews
5. Primary Filter Fitting

(Out)
8. Mounting Flange
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
307
Figure 307 Fuel Filter Adapter Installation with One-Piece Inlet Manifold
1. Secondary Filter Fitting (Out)
2. Secondary Filter Fitting (In)
3. Primary Filter Fitting (Out)
4. Coolant Manifold

6. Mounting Bracket
Page 279
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine ECU Installation
[230 EA]
Left-Side Mounted Assembly
1. Position the EECU and bracket assembly on
the air inlet manifold and install the isolating
washers and three mounting capscrews
(Figure 308). Tighten the capscrews to
2. Connect the wiring harness to the EECU.
308
Oil Cooler-to-Water Pump Inlet Line

Installation
cooler, install the oil cooler-to-water pump inlet
line (Figure 309) as follows:
1. Place the inlet line in position on the engine
and loosely install the capscrews attaching
the line to the water pump.
2. Install the flexible hose coupling and two
clamps between the inlet line and the
coolant manifold.
3. Tighten the two capscrews securing the inlet
line to the water pump to specification,
60 lb-ft (81 Nm).
309

Installation
Figure 308 Engine ECU Installation (Left-Side
Mounted Unit)
2. Coolant Manifold
3. Lower Mounting Bolts
(Two)
Page 280
4. EECU
5. Upper Mounting Bolts
(Two)
6. Mounting Stud
1. Water Pump
2. Thermostat By-Pass
Hose Connection
3. Water Pump Inlet Pipe
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Alternator Installation
[271 CB]
Removing Engine from Engine

Stand
[200 EA]

1. Install the alternator plate and mounting
hardware.
2. Position the alternator on the plate and
install the capscrews (2), washers and
mounting nuts.
3. Connect the electrical wires as tagged
during disassembly.
4. Install the poly-V drive belt (1).
5. Adjust the drive belt tension to specification
as described under Belt Drive System
procedures in the MAINTENANCE section.
1. Attach a suitable lifting device to lifting points

on the engine.
2. Position and attach an engine hoist to the
lifting device; operate the hoist to place
tension on the lifting device.
3. With the lifting device now supporting the
engine weight, remove the mounting
capscrews from the engine stand.
4. Using the lifting device, place the engine in a
suitable support rack or install the engine in
the vehicle (see Engine Installation in the
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section).
310
Figure 310 Alternator Installation

1. Adjusting Capscrew
3. Alternator
Page 281
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter
Mounting Bracket Assembly
Installation
[215 DW, 219 EP]
When the engine is equipped with the currentproduction plate-type oil cooler, the cooler and oil
filter mounting bracket cannot be installed until
the engine is removed from the repair stand.
Refer to Figure 312 and install the assembly as
follows:
1. Install an alternator mounting stud (part
No. 107AM5009) or stud of the same thread
into the upper right-hand corner of the oil
filter pedestal mounting pad. Only one stud
can be installed due to the close proximity of
the oil cooler to the inlet manifold.
2. Apply a small amount of grease to the back
of the oil filter mounting bracket pedestal
gasket around the area of the mounting hole
on the left-hand side of the gasket as shown
in Figure 311. This will hold the gasket in
place as the oil cooler and filter assembly is
installed.
311
3. Apply the gasket onto the block over the

previously installed alternator stud.
4. If not previously done, install the cooler-towater pipe hose onto the water pump inlet
pipe and slide completely onto the pipe to
allow installation of the oil cooler. Also
loosely install both the hose clamps.
5. Install the filter assembly pedestal onto the
stud with the forward end of the assembly
tilted downward approximately 1 inch (to
allow clearance with the inlet manifold).
Once the assembly is mounted on the stud,
pivot the assembly clockwise to align the
remaining three mounting holes of the
pedestal, while making sure the gasket
remains in the proper position.
6. With the mounting holes of the pedestal
aligned, install the bolt in the upper front
mounting hole position. Then install the
remaining two bolts in the lower mounting
holes.
7. Remove the stud from the upper right
mounting hole, then install the mounting
bolt.
8. Snug all bolts (7) in a criss-cross pattern,
then tighten to 60 lb-ft (81 Nm).
9. Slide the cooler-to-water pipe hose from its
previously positioned location on the pipe to
be centered between the cooler and the
water pipe.
10. Properly position the two hose clamps and
tighten in position.
11. Install the turbocharger lubrication supply
line (2).
12. Connect the harness to the oil pressure and
oil temperature sensors (6 and 5) on the
filter mounting bracket (9).
Figure 311 Gasket Grease Application
Page 282
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
312
Figure 312 Plate-Type Oil Cooler and Oil Filter Mounting Bracket Installation
1. Oil Supply Port for Mechanical Oil Pressure Dashboard
Gauge
2. Turbocharger Lubrication Supply Port
3. Oil Cooler
4. Oil Supply Port for REPTO, Turbo Unloader and
Remote-Mounted Oil Filter

8. Cylinder Block
9. Oil Filter Mounting Bracket
Page 283
5_106repair.fm Page 284 Monday, August 7, 2000 2:04 PM
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE INSTALLATION
Engine installation details vary from vehicle to
vehicle. The following procedure provides
general installation guidelines for MACK
E-Tech engines.
Before beginning, make sure all equipment has
been inspected for safety and is available for use.
Place the vehicle on a flat, level surface. Make
sure the area has ample work space.
2. Install engine mount capscrews to secure

the engine to the engine mounts. Tighten the
capscrews to specification.
3. Remove transmission jack from under
transmission.
4. Install the clutch linkage and bracketretaining capscrews.
5. Install power steering hoses and reservoir, if
applicable.
6. Install the hood rest crossmember(s), if
applicable.
7. Install the exhaust bracket to the flywheel
housing and install exhaust clamp at the
turbocharger.
Torsional idler-gear assemblies are available for

servicing both 1:1 and 0.7:1 ratio Flywheel Power
Take-Off (FWPTO) units in E-Tech engines
equipped with a T200 series transmission and
FWPTO. These assemblies feature a two-piece
idler gear and torsion spring.
The torsional idler-gear assembly reduces spline
wear on the FWPTO input (drive) gear. If the unit
is removed for any reason:
r
Inspect the input gear splines for excessive

wear.
If the splines show excessive wear,

disassemble the FWPTO far enough to gain
access to the idler-gear assembly. Refer to
MACK Service Manual 10-901, Flywheel
Power Take-Off.
Engine Installation into Vehicle
8. Install the starter. Connect wiring and

cables.
9. Install the air cleaner housing, if required.
10. Install all coolant tubes, ground straps, air
lines, fuel lines, hydraulic hoses or tubes,
throttle linkage and electrical wiring
harnesses that were removed from the
engine during removal.
On some engine models, the machined V-band

was replaced with a 3.5-inch push-on
turbocharger discharge connection that is angled
forward. The remaining models use a 3-inch
push-on connection directed 90 degrees outward
from the center line of the turbocharger. You will
need to know which turbocharger type is used on
the engine when ordering replacement parts.
11. Connect the air inlet tube between the
turbocharger and air cleaner assembly.
Obtain assistance when installing the engine. Be

sure to watch for obstructions such as engine or
chassis components, brackets, clamps or other
components that may interfere with engine
installation.
1. Align engine with the torque converter or
clutch (as applicable) and install the
transmission bell housing-to-flywheel
housing capscrews. Tighten the capscrews
to specification.
Page 284
12. Connect the heater hoses and A/C

refrigerant lines, if applicable, where
attached at the lower dash panel behind the
engine.
13. Install the fan and fan clutch assembly.
14. Install the accessory drive belts and adjust
the belts to specification.
15. Using a lifting device, place the radiator in
position at the front of the engine.
16. Install the retaining capscrews to the lower
radiator support mounts.
5_106repair.fm Page 285 Monday, August 7, 2000 2:04 PM
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
17. Install the retaining capscrews to the
radiator support rods.
25. If the vehicle is equipped with air

conditioning:
18. Position the fan clutch air solenoid valve, if

so equipped, on the radiator support and
install the retaining fastener.
a.
Connect the A/C refrigerant lowpressure cutout switch to the wiring

harness connector.
19. Locate the engine coolant temperature

sensor, if applicable, and connect it to the
wiring harness. Fasten the sensor harness
to the radiator support.
b.
Connect the binary (cycling clutch)

pressure switch on the receiver/dryer to
the wiring harness connector.
c.
Connect the A/C line at the receiver/

dryer.
d.
Connect the A/C compressor discharge

hose to the system at the connection
point near the radiator support.
e.
Recharge the A/C system with

refrigerant using refrigerant recovery
and recycling equipment (J 38750-A for
R12 or J 39500-B for R134A).
20. Connect the chassis-mounted charge air

cooler (CMCAC) outlet hose at the cooler.
21. Connect the CMCAC inlet hose at the
cooler.
22. Place the coolant overflow tank in position
and install the retaining clamps.
23. Connect the lower radiator hose to the
coolant inlet of the oil cooler assembly.
24. Connect the upper radiator hose to the
coolant outlet fitting on the engine.
26. Place the air intake tube in position and

tighten the clamps securing the intake tube
to the turbocharger and air filter.
27. Install the hood. Refer to the Hood
Installation procedures in the appropriate
vehicle manual.
Page 285
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
IN-CHASSIS PART/
COMPONENT PROCEDURES
This section presents four standalone
replacement operations which can be done inchassis and not involve a full engine overhaul.
These operations include Electronic Unit Pump
Replacement, Camshaft Replacement, Engine
Brake Control Valve Replacement and Valve
Lifter H-Ring Installation Check.

Replacement
[221 GP]
To properly service the electronic unit pumps
(EUPs), it is essential to understand unit pump
removal, pin and tappet installation, and unit
pump installation. Each of these procedures is
covered individually.
UNIT PUMP REMOVAL
When it is necessary to remove more than one

EUP, the removed EUPs must be paint-marked
with the cylinder number, and reinstalled at their
original locations. This will eliminate any need to
reprogram EUP information. If a new or
remanufactured EUP is installed, reprogramming
must be performed as described at the
conclusion of the EUP installation section.
1. Remove the heat shields.
2. Clean the EUP and cylinder block around
the EUP to ensure that no debris enters the
engine during EUP removal.
To avoid engine damage due to debris entering

EUP bores of the cylinder block, step 2 MUST be
followed.
3. On chassis with inlet manifold-mounted fuel

filters, remove both the inlet and outlet fuel
hoses from the secondary fuel filter. This
allows additional fuel to drain from the hose,
through the cylinder block, and out of the
internal passages.
On chassis with remote-mounted fuel filters,
remove the fuel hose from the cylinder block
fuel-inlet fitting, which is behind the EECU at
the top. This allows additional fuel to drain
through the cylinder block and out of the
internal passages.
4. Place a drain pan beneath the right side of
the engine. Remove the fuel-outlet fitting
from the cylinder block fuel return gallery
above the air compressor. This allows fuel to
drain from the internal passages.
To ensure that minimal fuel enters crankcase oil

during EUP removal, steps 3 and 4 MUST be
followed. To avoid fuel spillage, do not crank the
engine with the starter at any time during EUP
removal or replacement.
5. Remove the injection tube.
6. Remove wire terminals from the EUP.
7. Remove the inboard EUP screw completely.
8. Loosen outboard EUP screw and back it out
1/2 inch.
9. Insert screwdrivers under the bolt bosses
(front and rear) and pry until the EUP comes
out against the screw head. (The EUP may
spring out against the screw head.)
The EUP spring may be preloaded with

significant spring tension, depending upon
cam lobe position. To avoid injury from the
EUP springing outward, steps 79 must be
followed.
10. Remove outboard EUP screw completely
and remove EUP from the cylinder block.
Place the EUP in a clean area and cover it to
prevent entry of dirt and other contaminants.
Page 286
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
11. Remove roller tappet from the EUP bore by
hand. Do not use a tool as it could damage
the bore. Place the roller tappet in a clean
area and cover it to prevent the entry of dirt
and other contaminants.
TAPPET GUIDE PIN INSPECTION
1. Visually inspect the EUP bore in the cylinder
block for protrusion of the guide pin into the
bore. If the pin protrudes approximately
2 mm into the bore and is not damaged, it is
OK and no further action is required.
2. If the guide pin end is damaged or does not
protrude approximately 2 mm into the bore,
replace it as follows:
a.
Using a 1/4-inch diameter punch from

outside of the cylinder block, drive the
guide pin from its bore.
b.
Clean the pin bore in the block and a

new pin, part No. 183GC252, with
Loctite primer T. Then, coat bore and
pin with Loctite 609, or equivalent.
c.
Drive the pin into the bore until it is

flush with the cylinder block outer
surface as shown in Figure 313.
A small amount of scuffing or foreign particle

scoring in a lifter bore can inhibit static-free
movement of a lifter. While this will not cause a
lifter to hang-up during engine operation, it is
sometimes noticed during lifter removal or
installation. If this condition is encountered, use a
brake hone to lightly finish the bottom area of the
lifter bore. Trial-fit the lifter until the high spots
have been removed and free-movement is
re-established.
TAPPET INSTALLATION
1. Clean the cylinder block at the mounting
surface and bore, if required.
Use only a soft rag and solvent to clean the

cylinder block. Minor fretting at the EUP mounting
surface is acceptable.
2. Generously lubricate the roller tappet with
clean engine oil and carefully install it into
the bore using a finger. Refer to Figure 313.
313
Occasionally, a failure will result in severe wear

and breakage of the roller and roller axle, causing
these parts to separate from the lifter body.
Subsequently, the lifter legs (which had retained
the axle in the lifter body) are bent outward and
driven up into the lifter bore by the cam lobe. This
action damages the bottom 1/4 to 3/8 inch of the
bore, preventing installation of a new lifter.
The damaged bore area must be cleaned up with
a file, stone, or emery paper before the new lifter
can be installed. Use care when removing raised
metal so not to enlarge the bore diameter. Any
remaining nicks or scores will not inhibit proper
function of the parts and cause no problem.
Figure 313 Positioning Tappet
The slot in the roller tappet MUST be oriented

outward to align with the pin in the bore. The
roller tappet should slide freely in the bore.
Page 287
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
UNIT PUMP INSTALLATION
1. Install two new O-rings on the replacement
EUP in the upper and lower O-ring grooves.
2. Generously lubricate EUP O-rings with clean
engine oil and install the EUP into the
cylinder block (Figure 314).
Minimize oil above top O-ring to avoid weepage

of excess oil (trapped above the top O-ring) onto
the cylinder block.
5. Reinstall the wire terminals and tighten to

specification, 9 lb-in (1 Nm). Do not bend
wire terminals down after installation.
If an EUP has been replaced with a new or

remanufactured unit, the replacement unit must
be calibrated as described under Electronic
Pump Calibration in the Engine Setup and
Adjustments section. This will ensure optimum
engine performance.
6. Reinstall the heat shields.
To avoid O-ring damage, the cam lobe must be

positioned with the base circle up prior to
installation of each EUP. Do not use the starter to
rotate the engine; instead, use the flywheel
barring tool.
314
Camshaft Replacement (Engine in

Chassis)
[213 CH]
The preliminary steps for replacing the camshaft
will vary depending on the chassis configuration
and engine model. As such, these steps are
general in nature. Begin the operation by
disconnecting the battery and draining all fluids
from the engine. Then, remove the hood and
fender assembly, radiator, engine accessories/
drives, ducts, valve covers, engine brake
assemblies (if equipped), rocker shaft
assemblies, push rods, oil pan and front cover,
etc. The cylinder heads will remain installed.
CAMSHAFT REMOVAL
Figure 314 Unit Pump Installation
3. Reinstall the EUP screws and tighten evenly

to draw the EUP into the cylinder block.
Tighten screws to 42 lb-ft (57 Nm).
4. Reinstall the injection line and torque to
specification as follows:
r
Line clamp screw at cylinder head:

35 lb-ft (47 Nm)
Line nut at cylinder head clamp screw:

25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
Line nut at EUP: 25 lb-ft (34 Nm)
Page 288
When removing or installing the camshaft, first

remove the idler gear and hub. It is easier to
remove the camshaft guide from the camshaft
(after installation) when the idler gear has been
removed and alignment of the timing marks is not
being attempted at the same time. The final step
in the process is to reinstall the idler gear.
With the engine in the chassis, the valve lifters

must be held in the UP position, using tappet
holders J 37720-C in combination with J 42425.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
1. Insert the tappet holder in the lifter bore so
that the magnetic head of the tool holds the
lifter in position. Check to see if the tool has
captured the valve lifter by drawing upward
on the tool. A resistance will be felt that
cannot be felt if the magnet has contacted
something other than a valve lifter.
316
2. Secure the lifter in the UP position with

grommets provided with the tappet holders.
The holding tool shafts of two adjacent valve
lifters can be prevented from dropping by
wrapping a rubber band around the two
shafts. This draws the shafts together and
holds them in position. Refer to Figure 315.
315
Figure 316 Camshaft Thrust Washer Capscrews

Figure 315 Valve Lifter (Tappet) Holder Tool J 37720-C
3. Remove the two 12-point capscrews (3) that

retain camshaft thrust washer (1). Camshaft
may have to be rotated slightly to make the
capscrews accessible through openings (2)
in the camshaft drive gear (4). Refer to
Figure 316.
1. Thrust Washer
2. Openings (8, Current
Production)
4. Camshaft Drive Gear
4. Install the camshaft removal/installation tool

J 41682 (Figure 317) in position on the rear
segment of the camshaft, securing it with the
clip to the shaft.
317
Figure 317 Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool
Page 289
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Taking care not to damage camshaft or
bushings, pull the camshaft out of the front
of the engine. Carefully guide rear of the
shaft through the journals. If the shaft does
not come out freely, ensure that all valve
lifters are clear of the camshaft cams and
journals.
6. Remove and inspect the valve lifters.
Valve lifters have established wear patterns and

should be reinstalled in same locations. Label
each valve lifter upon removal and place on a
clean work surface.
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION
Before installing a camshaft in any engine,
ensure that cam is clean. Parts that are free of
dirt/contamination and are well-lubricated with
clean engine oil are essential for initial start-up
and run-in. If necessary, wash and brush the
camshaft in solvent and blow-dry with
compressed air. Also, check the camshaft for
possible handling burrs on the edges of journals
and lobes. Any minor burrs can be removed with
a fine stone.
Use camshaft guide tool J 41682 to ease

installation of the camshaft and avoid damage to
the camshaft bushings.
Procedure
Install the camshaft as follows:
In order to use the valve lifter tool to hold the

valve lifters in position, the cylinder heads must
be installed on the engine.
Arrange valve lifters in order identified so that
they can be reinstalled back into the same hole.
to the valve lifters.
Page 290
2. Install a lifter into the lifter bore by aligning

the lifter flats with the H-ring flats. As the
lifter is seated, it should be possible to rotate
it slightly from left to right.
With the engine in the chassis, the valve lifters

must be held in the UP position, using tappet
holders J 37720-C in combination with J 42425.
3. As the lifter is installed, it must be held in
position by inserting a tappet holder into the
opening through the top of the cylinder head
and block. The tappet holder must be
positioned so that the magnetic head of the
tool holds the lifter in position. Check to see
if the tool has captured the valve lifter by
drawing upward on the tool. A resistance will
be felt that cannot be felt if the magnet has
contacted something other than a valve
lifter.
4. Secure the lifter in the UP position with
grommets provided with the tappet holders.
The holding tool shafts of two adjacent valve
lifters can be prevented from dropping by
wrapping a rubber band around the two
shafts. This draws the shafts together and
holds them in position. Refer to Figure 315.
5. Repeat steps 2 through 4 to install each of
the remaining valve lifters.
to camshaft bushings.
7. Clean camshaft with a suitable solvent.
Make sure the captured thrust washer and

camshaft gear are properly installed on the
camshaft.
8. Install the camshaft installation guide tool
over the large flat of the injector lobe,
between the last two cam journals (journals
at back of shaft).
9. Apply clean engine oil to the installation
guide.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
[213] CAMSHAFT IDLER GEAR
INSTALLATION
The camshaft is heavy, approximately 90 pounds
with the gear. The installation guide allows the
camshaft to slide from one cam bushing to the
next without allowing the cam to drop when one
journal clears the bushing bore.
10. Slide the camshaft into the block with the
cam installation guide facing down toward
the floor. Refer to Figure 318.
11. Slide the cam all the way into the block.
318
Before installing the idler gear/hub assembly,

determine which is the top mounting hole on the
hub.
The idler gear is held in place by a flanged hub
mounted to the cylinder block by three bolts.
Although the bolt-mounting pattern may appear
symmetrical, it is not. The non-symmetrical
mounting pattern ensures that oil feed passages
in the hub will be properly aligned with the oil feed
passage in the cylinder block, which lubricates
the idler gear hub bushing.
To aid in aligning the hub to the mounting holes in
the cylinder block, the hub mounting-bolt hole at
the 12 oclock position (engine upright) is
identified by the word UP steel-stamped just
below the mounting hole. Refer to Figure 319.
1. With the engine in an upright position and
the hub correctly aligned with the mounting
bolt holes, place the idler hub against the
block and verify good mounting-hole
alignment.
319
Figure 318 Camshaft Installation
12. After the camshaft is fully installed, install

the thrust washer screws and tighten to
specification.
13. Rotate the crankshaft and camshaft to
facilitate installation guide removal. The
camshaft must be rotated so that the
installation guide faces the cylinder block
pan rail. The crankshaft must be rotated so
the No. 6 connecting rod journal faces the
cylinder block top deck (piston at TDC).
14. Remove the installation guide tool J 41682.
Figure 319 Hub Correctly Positioned on Block
Page 291
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Align the timing marks. First look at the
timing marks on both the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. Note that two teeth are
marked (side-by-side) on each gear. These
two timing marks must align with the single
timing marks on the idler gear. When
properly installed, the two single timing
marks on the idler gear will fall between the
two timing marks on the camshaft and
crankshaft gears. To attain correct
alignment, rotate the crankshaft and
camshaft gears until the camshaft timing
marks are in approximately the 3:30
position, and the crankshaft gear timing
marks are in approximately the 1 oclock
position (with engine in upright position and
viewed from the front).

than the crankshaft gear, the timing marks align
only once every 16 revolutions of the crankshaft.
This is called a hunting tooth system.
3. Slide the idler gear onto the hub assembly
with timing marks facing out.
Page 292
4. Position idler gear timing marks so they align

with the crankshaft and camshaft gear
timing marks. Then slide the idler gear/hub
assembly into position on the engine block.
5. Oil the bolts with clean engine oil. Start bolts
a few turns.
6. Tap the hub portion of the assembly with a
brass hammer to seat components.
7. Tighten the bolts evenly to specification. Do
not use an impact wrench or other air tool to
tighten bolts.
Final Assembly
Complete the reassembly of the engine by
installing the front cover, seals, oil pan, push
rods, rocker shaft assemblies, engine brake
assemblies (if equipped), valve covers, other
engine accessories/drives, radiator, hood and
fender assembly, etc.
Once the engine reassembly has been
accomplished, follow the procedures under
Engine Setup and Adjustments, and Final
Preparation and Operational Check in the
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS section to complete
the camshaft replacement.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Engine Brake Control Valve
Replacement
(J-Tech Engine Brake)
GENERAL INFORMATION
With J-Tech engine brake units built prior to
June 1999, the possibility exists that the snap ring
securing the control valve in the J-Tech brake
units may break or dislodge, allowing oil pressure

to push the control valve components from the
housing bore. This results in loss of oil pressure
and a poor performing or non-functioning engine
brake unit. In most instances, however, this
condition will go unnoticed until the cylinder head
covers are removed. A broken or dislodged
control valve retaining snap ring will not cause
any damage to the engine.
320
Figure 320 Engine Brake Housing Assembly
To prevent breaking or dislodging of the control

valve snap ring, the J-Tech control valve
components have been redesigned to
incorporate a new-style collar (which replaces the
old-style valve stop spacer), an outer spring and
a retaining washer (Figure 321). With this
change, the part No. of the engine brake housing
assembly was changed from 757GB58B to
757GB58C (beginning with housing assembly
serial No. D690060001), and was phased into
E-Tech engine production June 30, 1999
(beginning with engine serial number 9M4395).
A control valve update kit (part No. 4559-28190)

for Jacobs 690 (J-Tech) engine brake is
available through the MACK Parts System. The
kit includes all the necessary components to
replace all six control valves on the engine.
Page 293
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
321
The control valve stop spacer used with the

previous (non-current) control valve assembly
has been terminated and is no longer available.
Additionally, the new-style collar and outer spring
are not compatible with the non-current control
valves. Use of the collar and outer spring with the
old-style control valve will result in no braking
function.
Figure 321 J-Tech Control Valve Components
Page 294
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
INSPECTION AND REPAIR
Remove the cylinder head valve covers and
check the control valve bores in each J-Tech
assembly (Figure 320) for a dislodged or broken
snap ring(s). Should a broken or dislodged
control valve snap ring be encountered, it is
recommended that the control valve components
for all six control valves on the engine be
replaced with these new components. After
installing the new-style control valve components,
the letter C should be stamped on the Jake
brake housing identification plate, as shown in
Figure 322 to identify that they have the updated
components.
322
Valve Lifter H-Ring Installation

Check
Any valve train failure which results in excessive

valve lash can result in the valve lifter H-ring
being dislodged or partially dislodged. If an
engine has had such a failure, the affected
cylinder must be checked for proper positioning of
the H-ring.
Dislodging of the H-ring from its bore results from
valve lifter inertia forcing the H-ring upward.
When the H-ring at a failure cylinder is higher
than that of an adjacent cylinder, the appropriate
action must be taken depending upon how much
the H-ring has been pushed upward. Measure the
installation depth of the H-ring as follows:
1. Remove the push rod and look down the
push rod hole, observing the top of the lifter
and the top of the H-ring.
2. Place an approximate 15-inch length of
welding rod on the top of the H-ring, at the
outboard side. Refer to Figure 323.
323
Figure 322 J-Tech Housing Identification Plate
Figure 323 H-Ring Measuring Point
Page 295
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Place a straightedge on the cylinder head
top rail surface, in contact with the welding
rod.
4. Mark the welding rod at the straightedge
contact point.
5. Perform the same check at an adjacent
cylinder and mark this location on the
welding rod. Compare measurements with
the original mark made at the suspect
cylinder.
r
If the H-ring at the failure cylinder is the

same height to 1/16 inch (1.574 mm)
higher as compared to that of an
adjacent cylinder, it is concluded that
no partial dislodging of the H-ring has
occurred. No further action is required.
If the H-ring at the failure cylinder is

1/161/4 inch (1.5743.175 mm) higher
than that of an adjacent cylinder, only
partial dislodging has taken place, but
H-ring to lifter engagement was
maintained. Proceed to step 6 for
repositioning of the H-ring.
Page 296
If the H-ring is more than 1/4 inch

(3.175 mm) higher than that of an
adjacent cylinder, it is very likely that
lifter and camshaft lobe damage has
taken place. The lobe must be
inspected and the camshaft and lifter
replaced as necessary. Proceed to
step 6 for repositioning of the H-ring.
6. Place a long screwdriver or long piece of drill

rod on the H-ring top surface and using a
cross-alternating pattern as shown in
Figure 324, carefully tap the H-ring back into
place. The depth should match that of the
adjacent unaffected cylinder as marked
previously on the welding rod.
324
Figure 324 Alternating Pattern for H-Ring
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE SETUP AND
ADJUSTMENTS
Engine firing order is 1-5-3-6-2-4.
Fuel Injection Timing

There is no longer a need to set injection pumpto-engine timing. Consequently, the timing pointer
on the engine front cover is eliminated. In place of
the timing procedure, unit pump-to-engine timing
is programmed into and controlled by the EECU.
However, the flywheel still has pump timing
marks to accommodate application to both
E-Tech and E7 engines; the marks are not
needed for the E-Tech engine.

r
Engine Barring Socket J 38587-A
LOCATING AND MARKING FLYWHEEL VALVE

ADJUSTMENT MARKINGS
[213 NB]
Some engines may be equipped with flywheels

that have missing or illegible valve adjustment
markings. If this problem is encountered, a typical
flywheel can be marked while the engine is in the
chassis.
TYPICAL FLYWHEELS
Valve Yoke, Valve Lash and Engine

Brake Adjustments
The pinless type inlet valve yoke is self-leveling

and does not have a yoke leveling adjustment
screw. Inlet valve lash adjustments are performed
in the normal manner with the rocker arm
adjusting screw.
Yoke and valve adjustments are done in two
stages. Adjust the pin-type yoke clearance
FIRST, and then adjust the valve lash. Make sure
both adjustments are done in firing order
sequence. Manually rotate the engine in normal
rotation direction until the center of the timing
pointer hole in the flywheel housing aligns with
the valves 1 and 6 mark on the flywheel and the
No. 1 piston is on the compression stroke. The
flywheel has three stamped locations at 120degree intervals for valve settings.
On a typical flywheel, the top center (TC)

markings, and the valve adjustment markings,
are directly in line with the clutch mounting bolt/
bolt holes. To determine if the engine is equipped
with a typical flywheel, view the flywheel through
the timing access hole in the flywheel housing.
Align the TC markings with the timing pointer. If
the flywheel is typical, there should be a clutch
mounting bolt/bolt hole directly in line with the TC
marking. In this case, the valve adjustment
markings should be in line with a clutch mounting
bolt at three locations. Refer to Figure 325.
Yoke and valve adjustments must be made under

static conditions with coolant temperature below
100F (37C).
Page 297
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
325
Figure 325 Flywheel Marks
There are 12 clutch mounting bolt holes in the

flywheel, but only 8 of these holes are used to
mount the clutch. Every third bolt hole, for a total
of four, is not used. These holes are in an open
area between the clutch mounting flanges. The
unused holes are easy to see through the timing
access hole in the flywheel housing. The bolt
holes where there are clutch mounting bolts are
more difficult to see because the clutch mounting
bolt head is somewhat rearward of the timing
access opening. To aid in counting the clutch
mounting bolt/bolt holes, keep in mind that there
is slightly over four inches between one bolt hole
and the next. Locating the clutch mounting bolts
may be made easier by removing the bell housing
inspection cover and viewing or feeling for the
bolts through the access hole.
After verifying that there is a clutch mounting bolt/
bolt hole in line with the TC mark, the next step is
to find the three locations where the valve
adjustment marks should be. Put a temporary
mark (chalk, grease pencil, paint, etc.) at each of
the three locations. Proceed as follows:
Page 298
1. Beginning with the TC mark aligned with the

timing pointer, rotate the engine in the
direction of normal rotation
(counterclockwise, viewed from rear) to the
next clutch mounting bolt/bolt hole.
Temporarily mark this location for cylinders
1 and 6.
2. Continue rotating the engine in the normal
direction and count the clutch mounting bolt/
bolt holes as they pass the timing access
opening. At the fourth mounting bolt/bolt
hole, make a temporary mark on the
flywheel for cylinders 2 and 5.
3. Rotate the engine another four mounting
bolt/bolt holes and make a temporary mark
on the flywheel for cylinders 3 and 4.
4. Rotate the engine another three clutch
mounting bolt/bolt holes and verify that the
flywheel is at the TC mark. Then, rotate the
engine one more bolt/bolt hole and verify
that the flywheel is at the temporary mark
made for cylinders 1 and 6.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
5. Permanently mark the flywheel at this
location for cylinders 1 and 6. To gain
access, rotate the engine slightly so that the
area to be marked is either to the right or left
side of the timing pointer. Place a chisel
mark directly in line with the clutch mounting
bolt/bolt hole. Then, stamp or electric-etch
the cylinder numbers on either side of the
chisel mark.
6. Rotate the engine to the remaining locations
and make sure to count the clutch mounting
bolt/bolt holes to verify the locations of the
temporary markings. Once verified,
permanently mark each location as
described.
NON-TYPICAL FLYWHEELS

1. Using engine barring socket J 38587-A,
manually rotate engine in normal rotation
direction until pointer in flywheel housing
aligns with the valves 1 and 6 mark on the
flywheel and the No. 1 piston is on the
compression stroke.
Valve lash must be set using the valve

adjustment marks on the engine flywheel, which
are at 30 degrees ATC. This ensures that the
lifter is on the camshaft base circle and not on the
brake ramp portion of the lobe.
326
If the engine is equipped with a non-typical

flywheel, the TC markings will be halfway
between two clutch mounting bolts. If this type of
flywheel has no valve adjustment markings, it
should be replaced.
VALVE YOKE ADJUSTMENT
Beginning March 2, 2000 (engine serial
No. 0D0120), pinless valve yokes were
implemented into production on all E-Tech
engines. The pinless yokes are used for the inlet
valves only. The cylinder heads no longer have
yoke guide pins at the inlet valve locations.
The pinless yoke is self-leveling in operation and
does not have a leveling adjustment screw. Inlet
valve adjustments are performed in the normal
manner with the rocker arm adjusting screw. For
the exhaust valves, it is still necessary to adjust
the valve yoke first, then the rocker arm lash.
Make sure that adjusting screws are retracted

upward in the rocker arms. If they extend too far
below the rocker arm, the push rods can be bent
when tightening the rocker arm assembly
brackets.
Verify that the slave piston adjusting screws are
fully retracted and that all the spherical jam nuts
are turned down snug against the rocker arms
before rotating the engine crankshaft for valve
lash adjustment. Rotating the engine crankshaft
with the spherical jam nuts loose, or the slave
piston adjusting screws not fully retracted, could
damage the brake master pistons.
Figure 326 Engine Crankshaft Rotation

1. Barring Socket
J 38587-A
2. Flywheel Housing
3. Flywheel
Page 299
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
2. Back off the valve rocker adjusting screws.
327
3. Loosen the No. 1 cylinder yoke adjusting

screw jam nuts for the inlet and exhaust
valves.
4. Exert moderate force on the yoke by
pressing on the rocker arm slipper end. Turn
down the yoke adjusting screw until it makes
solid contact with the outboard valve stem
tip, as sensed by a light drag on the
adjusting screw.
If the engine is equipped with an engine brake,

the exhaust yoke will be equipped with an
actuator pin adjusting screw.
Do not allow anything to press down on the
actuating pin during adjustment. The pin must be
fully extended, approximately 1/4 inch
(6.350 mm) above the top of the hollow adjusting
screw. If the pin is held down and not fully
extended, an improper adjustment and engine
failure will result.
5. Turn adjusting screw an additional 1/6 turn
(60 degrees) clockwise.
Figure 327 Yoke Adjusting Screw and Jam Nut
1. Valve Yoke
A 1/6 turn is equal to one flat on the adjusting

screw locknut.
6. Hold the yoke adjusting screw in this
position while tightening the adjusting screw
jam nut to the specified torque, 33 lb-ft
equivalent.
Page 300
2. Adjusting Screw
7. Check yoke adjustment as follows:

a.
Insert a 0.010-inch (0.254-mm)

thickness gauge between the yoke and
valve stem, at both the inboard and
outboard locations.
b.
Exert moderate force on the yoke by

pressing on the rocker arm slipper end
as shown in Figure 328. An equal drag
should be felt on both thickness
gauges. If drag is unequal, readjust the
yoke adjusting screw, as required.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. After setting adjustment screw, tighten jam
nut to specification, 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using
328
Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.

4. After tightening jam nut, recheck valve lash
clearance. Readjust as necessary.
329
Figure 328 Checking Yoke Adjustment

1. Rocker Arm
2. Valve Yoke
3. Thickness Gauges
INLET VALVE ADJUSTMENT

Inlet valve lash clearance is 0.016 inch
(0.406 mm).
When checking the inlet valve adjustment as part

of a troubleshooting routine, the acceptable
range is 0.0120.020 inch (0.3050.508 mm). Do
NOT readjust the lash clearance unless it is
outside of this range.
1. Place a 0.016-inch (0.406-mm) thickness
gauge between the rocker arm and yoke on
the No. 1 cylinder.
2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is
felt on the thickness gauge.
Figure 329 Inlet Valve Adjustment

1. Adjusting Screw
2. Thickness Gauge
3. Valve Yoke
Page 301
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
EXHAUST VALVE ADJUSTMENT
Exhaust valve clearance is 0.024 inch
(0.610 mm).
When checking the exhaust valve adjustment as

part of a troubleshooting routine, the acceptable
range is 0.0200.028 inch (0.5080.711 mm). Do
NOT readjust the lash clearance unless it is
outside of this range.
gauge between the rocker arm and yoke on
the No. 1 cylinder.
2. Turn the adjusting screw until a light drag is
felt on the thickness gauge.
The J-Tech exhaust rocker arm adjusting screw

spherical jam nut is a through-hardened nut.
When tightening these nuts, be aware of the
following:
r
Always use the proper 20-mm size wrench.

Using an improper size wrench to tighten the
jam nuts can lead to jam nut breakage.
Overtightening the jam nut when adjusting

valves may result in jam nut breakage. If
there is too much or too little drag on the
thickness gauge, loosen the jam nut and
reading valve lash.
4. Recheck valve lash clearance after
tightening jam nut. Readjust as necessary.
330
3. After adjustment is complete, tighten jam nut

to specification, 40 lb-ft (54 Nm), using
Do not allow the adjustment screw to turn.
Figure 330 Exhaust Valve Adjustment

2. Thickness Gauge
Page 302
3. Valve Yoke
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE BRAKE ADJUSTMENT (IF
EQUIPPED)
[213]
gauge between the slave piston stem and
the actuator pin in the yoke adjusting screw.
2. Turn the slave piston adjusting screw to set
the lash.
It may be necessary to back off the adjusting

screw slightly to remove the thickness gauge.
However, be sure to return the adjusting screw to
the proper position.
3. Tighten the jam nut to specification, 25 lb-ft
(34 Nm).
331
Figure 331 J-Tech Exhaust Valve Rocker Arm and Yoke
Page 303
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
CONTINUATION OF ADJUSTMENTS FOR
REMAINING CYLINDERS
1. Using the barring socket, manually rotate
the engine crankshaft (Figure 332) in normal
rotation direction 120 degrees until the
center of the timing pointer hole in flywheel
housing aligns with the 2 & 5 mark on the
flywheel and the No. 5 piston is on the
compression stroke.
332
3. Make sure that the Jacobs electrical

connector, MACK part No. 4559-17366, is
installed in each of the engine brake cylinder
head cover spacers. Install one valve cover
gasket in each spacer and position the
spacers on the cylinder heads.
4. Connect the solenoid wires to the inside
terminal of the electrical connectors on the
spacers. Connect the brake lead wires from
the engine harness to the outside terminals.
5. Install the gaskets in the cylinder head valve
covers and position the covers on the
spacers.
6. Install six mounting bolts in each of the
cylinder head covers/spacers and tighten
the bolts to 20 lb-ft (27 Nm).
Engine Speed and Position Sensors

Installation and Adjustment
ENGINE SPEED SENSOR
Because the engine speed sensor (Figure 333) is
controlled by the measurement and selection of
proper mounting shims, the installation procedure
is as follows:
1. Using a depth micrometer or vernier caliper,
measure from the sensor mounting surface
on the flywheel housing to the OD of a
flywheel ring tooth.
Measurement must be made to the tooth OD or

an inaccurate measurement will result.
Figure 332 Engine Crankshaft Rotation
1. Barring Socket
J 38587-A
2. Flywheel Housing
3. Flywheel
2. Adjust the final intake and exhaust valve

lash, and engine brake slave piston lash for
cylinder No. 5 as described in the procedure
for cylinder No. 1. (Continue this process for
each of the remaining cylinders, following
the engine firing order sequence,
1-5-3-6-2-4.)
Page 304
2. Select and install a shim on the sensor

mounting flange. Refer to following chart for
shim selection.
SHIM SELECTION CHART FOR ENGINE SPEED AND
ENGINE POSITION SENSORS
Depth as Measured
Use the Following

P/N 505GC28 Shims
Less than/equal to 1.328
(2) P30
1.329 through 1.343
(1) P15 + (1) P30
1.344 through 1.358
(1) P30
1.359 through 1.373
(1) P15
Equal to/greater than 1.374
None
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
3. Install the sensor with the appropriate shim.
Tighten the capscrew retaining the sensor to
proper specification.
333
OTHER ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS

The remaining engine-mounted sensors are
thread-mounted and are not adjustable. These
include the Fuel Temperature, Boost Air
Temperature, Boost Pressure Sensor, Coolant
Temperature, Oil Temperature and Oil Pressure
sensors. Refer to the Torque Specifications for
Engine-Mounted Sensors in the
SPECIFICATIONS section for thread sizes and
torque specifications.
Do not use an E7 English pipe-thread sensor in

place of a metric straight-thread sensor (or vice
versa). Doing so will result in thread damage to
both the sensor and the tapped hole into which
the sensor is installed.
Figure 333 Engine Speed Sensor
ENGINE POSITION SENSOR

Installation of this sensor (Figure 334) is the
same as that for the engine speed sensor except
for the first step. When installing the engine
position sensor, make the shim calculation
measurement from the sensor mounting surface
on the front timing gear cover to the face of the
camshaft gear.
Do not measure into one of the sensing holes in

the gear face or an inaccurate measurement will
result.

Calibration
[221 GP]
Whenever an electronic unit pump(s) is replaced
in an engine, it is necessary to recalibrate the
pump(s) by entering the calibration code into the
engine electronic control unit (EECU). The
calibration code is a four-digit number that can be
found on the data plate of each individual unit
pump. This calibration code is then entered by
using a personal computer that is running the
V-MAC Service Support Software or the
Pro-Link 9000.
334
The four-digit calibration code can be found on

the EUP data plate, shown after the letters CAL
for early production EUPs. For later-production
EUPs, the calibration code is still found in the
same location on the data plate (next to the word
MACK), only the identification letters CAL have
been eliminated to provide room for larger bar
codes.
Figure 334 Engine Position Sensor
Page 305
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION
AND OPERATIONAL CHECK
Engine Lubrication System
Filter Element Installation
A lubricating oil film coats rotating parts and

bearings of an overhauled engine, but this may
not provide sufficient lubrication when the engine
is started for the first time. The following briefly
describes the recommended procedure for
ensuring proper lubrication.
All filters and coolant conditioners must meet

MACK specifications. Prime oil filters before
installation using the correct specification engine
oil.
1. Install a new air filter in the air filter housing.
2. Install the applicable Centri-Max (externally
drained) or Centri-Max PLUS (internally
drained) filter assembly. Be sure to use a
new rotor element and O-ring.
There are different rotor assemblies for the

standard Centri-Max (externally drained) and
Centri-Max PLUS (internally drained) filter
assemblies. Take care to use the correct rotor for
the applicable configuration. While either of the
two rotors available for the externally drained
configuration will slide on the spindle of the
internally drained configuration, they will be loose
and not rotate, causing the unit to not function.
3. Using an appropriate filter wrench such as
J 29927, install the two full-flow oil filter
elements and coolant conditioner element.
Prime the fuel filter elements before installation.

Use only clean, MACK-specified, Grade 2D
diesel fuel.
4. Prime the PRIMARY fuel filter element (red)
by filling with clean No. 2 fuel oil. Do not fill
the filter through the center hole; it must be
filled using the outer holes. Lubricate the
gasket with oil and install the filter.
5. Prime the SECONDARY fuel filter element
(green) by filling with clean No. 2 fuel oil. Do
not fill the filter through the center hole; it
must be filled using the outer holes.
Lubricate the gasket with oil and install the
filter.
Page 306
Do not mix brands or types of lubricants.

Chemical additives may be incompatible and may
contribute to the formation of sludge, acid or
hardening.
Usually there are various points on the engine

where a pressure line may be tapped into, but if
no other is apparent, the oil gauge line may be
disconnected and a pressure tank applied at that
point.
PRIMING THE LUBRICATION SYSTEM

1. Fill the engine crankcase to the specified
capacity with the recommended MACKspecified EO-M engine oil.
2. Fill a pressure prelubricator (J 39258-A) with
the recommended oil and connect the
pressure prelubricator to main oil gallery.
Prime the engine lubrication system with
sufficient oil.
3. Remove the oil level dipstick and check the
crankcase level. Add sufficient oil, if
necessary, to bring it to the FULL mark on
the dipstick. Do not overfill.
Turbocharger
1. Disconnect the turbocharger oil inlet line and
pour approximately one pint (473 ml) of
clean engine oil into the line. This ensures
that the bearings are properly lubricated for
initial start-up.
2. Reconnect the oil line.
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
Cooling System
1. Check the cooling system. Make sure all
plugs are installed and tight. Make sure the
thermostat is installed.
2. Fill the system with the recommended
coolant.
To ensure that all air is purged from the cooling

system, remove a plug from the top (or end) of
the coolant manifold during filling. This will
eliminate any air that is trapped as a result of
rapid filling.
3. Install a new coolant conditioner and fill with
the recommended coolant mixture.
4. Check that all plugs and thermostat(s) are
installed.
Excessive hand-priming after fuel is seen at the

fitting may make the engine difficult to start.
4. Reconnect the inlet hose to the secondary
fuel filter and start the engine.
If the engine does not start, refill both filters and

repeat the priming procedure outlined in steps 2,
3 and 4.
Do not crank the engine continuously for more

than 30 seconds without allowing the starter to
cool for 2 minutes between cranks.
Fuel System
1. Check the fuel system to ensure that all
connections are tight.
2. Remove any trapped air by operating the
manual priming pump located on the side of
the fuel supply pump, using the following
procedure.
Prime the fuel system with clean, Grade 2D

diesel fuel (DF-A).
PRIMING THE FUEL SYSTEM

Using a hand-priming pump is usually only
necessary when the fuel system has run dry. If
the hand-priming pump is needed, use the
following procedure for priming a dry fuel system.
The only acceptable method of priming the fuel

system is the hand primer pump. The application
of air pressure to the fuel tank or the use of an
auxiliary pump to prime the fuel system is
PROHIBITED. These priming techniques may
result in severe engine damage caused by
leakage of fuel past the supply pump seal and
into the crankcase.
Engine Operational Check

1. Remove all tools from the engine
compartment.
2. Connect the battery cables (negative cable
last).
3. Clear the work area of debris and personnel.
1. Fill the primary and secondary fuel filters.
4. Start the engine. Check for leaks and

monitor gauges for satisfactory oil pressure,
etc.
2. Disconnect the inlet hose at the secondary

fuel filter. (This is the center fitting on the
CH/CL fuel filter mounting adapter.)
5. After several minutes, shut the engine down.

Check the fluid levels and fill to capacity
before restarting the engine.
3. Hand-prime until fuel is seen at the inlet

hose fitting. This should take approximately
50 hand pumps.
6. Refer to the Rebuilt Engine Run-In

Procedures in this section for testing
procedures.
Page 307
REPAIR INSTRUCTIONS
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN
PROCEDURES
The operator must be observant throughout the

entire run-in procedure, in order to detect any
problems that develop. Constantly monitor the
instrumentation displaying functions of the engine
and support systems, and record all readings.
The durability and service life of a rebuilt engine

is directly related to its initial run-in following
overhaul. After a complete overhaul or any major
repair job involving installation of piston rings,
pistons, cylinder sleeves or bearings, the engine
must be run-in prior to release for service.
If, during run-in, the engine develops any of the

following abnormal running characteristics, shut it
down immediately. Investigate and correct the
problem before continuing the run-in procedure.
Run-in procedures vary depending on method

used (i.e., engine dynamometer, chassis
dynamometer or highway run-in). Regardless of
method, however, always properly prepare the
engine before starting it for the first time.
Unusual noises such as knocking, scraping,

etc.
A significant drop in engine oil pressure
A significant rise in coolant temperature,

exceeding 240F (116C)
Run-In Check
A significant rise in oil temperature that

exceeds 240F (116C)
An exhaust temperature that exceeds

maximum acceptable limits for the specific
engine involved, as measured by a
pyrometer (if applicable)
Any oil, coolant or air inlet system leaks
Always investigate the following conditions:
Install any additional instrumentation needed for

the run-in method selected.
The operator should be familiar with the correct,
established procedure for checking chassis
power before using chassis dynamometer
method for run-in (refer to applicable chassis
dynamometer operation procedures).
Page 308
CYLINDER HEAD RETORQUING

After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off
each cylinder head capscrew individually until
free. Then retorque same capscrew to 205 lb-ft
(278 Nm).
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATIONS
Page 309
SPECIFICATIONS
E-TECH ENGINE
MECHANICAL
SPECIFICATIONS
Performance Specifications
E7-310/330 E-TECH
Power at Governed Speed 310 hp

(231 kW) at 1800 rpm
Peak Power 330 hp (246 kW) at
1500 rpm
Maximum Torque 1,360 lb-ft (1 844 Nm)
at 1100 rpm
Retarding power specifications apply only for

engines equipped with the optional J-Tech
engine brake.
Torque Rise 50 percent

Engine Brake Retarding Power 335 hp
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
E7-330/350 E-TECH
EM7-275 E-TECH

(205 kW) at 1750 rpm
1500 rpm
at 1020 rpm
(230 kW) at 2100 rpm

(246 kW) at 1800 rpm
1500 rpm
at 1100 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
E7-350 E-TECH
EM7-300 E-TECH

(224 kW) at 1750 rpm
1500 rpm
at 1020 rpm

(261 kW) at 1800 rpm
at 1200 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm

(230 kW) at 2100 rpm
E7-300 E-TECH

(224 kW) at 1800 rpm
at 1200 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
Page 310
E7-355/380 E-TECH

(265 kW) at 1800 rpm
1500 rpm
at 1100 rpm
(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
SPECIFICATIONS
E7-400 E-TECH

(298 kW) at 1800 rpm
at 1200 rpm

(251 kW) at 2100 rpm
E7-460 E-TECH

(342 kW) at 1850 rpm

(234 kW) at 2100 rpm
Peak Power 487 (363 kW) at

16001700 rpm
at 1200 rpm
E7-427 E-TECH

(318 kW) at 1800 rpm

at 1200 rpm

(251 kW) at 2100 rpm
Material and Dimensional Data

WEIGHTS AND DIMENSIONS
Item
Weight (wet) includes oil and coolant
Specification
2340 lbs. (1062 kg)
Weight (dry)
2290 lbs. (1039 kg)
Displacement
728 cu. in. (12 L)
Bore and stroke
4-7/8 in. x 6-1/2 in. (124 mm x 165 mm)
Coolant capacity
13 qts. (12.3 L)
Sleeve design
Wet/dry
Compression ratio
16.1:1
Fasteners and threads
Metric
Flywheel housing standard
Aluminum
Flywheel housing optional
Ductile iron
COMPONENT FEATURES AND MATERIALS

Item
Description
Cylinder block
Alloyed gray cast iron
Main bearing caps
Ductile iron, intermediates supported with buttress screws
Flywheel housing
Aluminum, standard SAE No. 1, precision-doweled
Engine front cover (timing gear cover)
Die-cast aluminum, precision-doweled
Cylinder sleeve
Wet/dry, replaceable, centrifugally cast, alloyed cast iron
Cylinder sleeve crevice seal
Teflon-coated AFLAS/EPDM, intolerant of oil; use glycol for

installation lubricant
Cylinder heads
Alloyed gray cast iron, two per engine; four valves per
cylinder
Cylinder head gaskets body
Nonasbestos material with steel core, two per engine
Cylinder head gaskets fire ring
Steel, keyed, six per engine
Page 311
SPECIFICATIONS
Item
Description
Pistons
Two-piece articulated, steel crown with three rings, aluminum

alloy skirt, pin bushings (early production), bushingless
(current production). The crown of bushingless pistons is
manganese-phosphate coated.
Piston rings compression
Keystone, plasma-faced top ring. Rectangular, chrome,

tapered-face second ring
Piston ring oil
Dual chrome-faced rails, conformable with coil spring

expander
Piston pin
Full-floating, 2.25-inch (57-mm) diameter, full-pressure

lubrication through rifle-drilled holes in connecting rod
Connecting rods
Forged steel, I-beam type with tapered pin end, 35-degree

cap angle, 10.4 inches (264 mm) center-to-center length
Crankshaft
Drop-forged, medium carbon steel, elotherm-hardened

journals and fillets, eight integral counterweights, 3.25-inch
(83-mm) pin journal diameter, 4.5-inch (114-mm) main journal
diameter
Bearings main
Steel back, cast copper-lead intermediate layer, lead-tin

overlay
Bearings connecting rod
Steel back, cast copper-lead intermediate layer, lead-tin

overlay, deltawall
Vibration damper
Constructed with internal metal inertia ring, viscous fluid filled
Camshaft
Carbon steel with induction-hardened journals and lobes,

gear driven
Valves inlet
Poppet type with positive rotators, 20-degree seat, two per

cylinder
Valves exhaust
Poppet type with positive rotators, 30-degree seat, two per

cylinder
Valve lifters
Roller follower type
Oil filters
Two spin-on disposable; one Centri-Max
Air compressor
Flange-mounted, gear driven, oil-lubricated and water-cooled

from engine; Bendix, Holset or Meritor WABCO
Turbocharger
Radial-flow type, exhaust gas driven, oil lubricated from

engine; Schwitzer
Lubrication system
Full pressure, wet sump, 28-quart (26.5 L) capacity,

25,000-mile (40 000-km) highway/300-hour stop-and-go
change interval; MACK-approved EO-M oil. If application
meets Line Haul 1 requirements, it qualifies for extended
service interval with MACK-approved EO-M Plus oil.
Valve seat inserts
Pressed-in head, replaceable
Manifold air inlet
Two piece, six port
Manifold exhaust
Three piece, six port
Manifold water
Two piece, four port
Fuel injection pumps
Electronic unit pumps, Bosch
Fuel supply pump
Gear type, Bosch
Fuel injection nozzles
8-hole, 140-degree spray angle, Bosch
Fuel filters
Spin-on disposal type with metric mounting threads
Water pump
Centrifugal-rotor type, belt driven
Thermostat
180-degree opening with rubber-seated flange seal and

stainless steel caged check-ball vent
Coolant conditioner (optional)
Spin-on type, disposable
Page 312
SPECIFICATIONS
FITS AND LIMITS
The specifications as listed are for new parts, and
therefore, maximum wear must be established by
good judgment, experience and sound shop

practice.
Tolerances Are Shown Low to High
Standard Size or Fit
Component
English
Metric
AUXILIARY SHAFT
Shaft End Play
0.0030.012 in.
0.0760.305 mm
Shaft Journal Clearance
0.00200.0072 in.
0.0510.183 mm
Shaft Bushing, Presized ID (front and rear)
2.0642.068 in.
52.42652.527 mm
Shaft Bushing, Presized OD (front and rear)
2.31402.3155 in.
58.775658.8137 mm
Shaft Bushing, Bore in Block (front and rear)
2.3112.312 in.
58.69958.725 mm
Shaft Bushing, Press-Fit in Bore (front and rear)
0.0020.0045 in.
0.05180.1143 mm
Shaft Journal to Bushing (front and rear)
0.00200.0072 in.
0.05080.1829 mm
Shaft Journal Diameter OD (front and rear)
2.0612.062 in.
52.34952.375 mm
Oil Pump Driving Gear ID (press-fit)
1.62551.6250 in.
41.287741.2750 mm
Auxiliary Shaft Oil Pump Drive Journal
1.62781.6272 in.
41.346141.3309 mm
Air Compressor Drive Sprocket (press-fit)
1.12501.242 in.
28.57531.547 mm
Auxiliary Shaft Air Compressor Sprocket Journal
1.12721.1268 in.
28.630928.6207 mm
Bushing Free OD
4.00454.0065 in.
101.714101.765 mm
Bushing Bore in Cylinder Block
3.99954.0005 in.
101.587101.613 mm
Bushing Press-Fit in Bore
0.0040.007 in.
0.1020.178 mm
Bushing ID (Installed)
3.81883.8213 in.
96.99897.061 mm
Cam Journal Diameter
3.81503.8160 in.
96.90196.926 mm
Journal-to-Bushing Clearance
0.00280.0063 in.
0.0710.160 mm
Cam Gear Journal OD on Camshaft
2.502052.50255 in.
63.55263.565 mm
Cam Gear Bore ID
2.49832.4993 in.
63.45763.482 mm
Cam Gear-to-Journal Press-Fit
0.002750.00425 in.
0.0700.108 mm
Inlet Valve Lobe Nominal Lift
0.320 in.
8.128 mm
Exhaust Valve Lobe Nominal Lift
0.334 in.
8.484 mm
EUP Lobe Nominal Lift
0.704 in.
17.882 mm
Camshaft End Play
0.0030.012 in.
0.0760.305 mm
CAMSHAFT
CONNECTING ROD
Connecting Rod Journal to Bearing Clearance
0.00120.0054 in.
0.0300.137 mm
Side Clearance
0.0070.014 in.
0.1780.355 mm
Length between Centers
10.4375 in.
26.5113 cm
Cap Angle
35 degrees
Bore for Bushing
2.43552.4345 in.
61.861761.8363 mm
Burnish Bushing to:
2.23052.2275 in.
56.654756.5785 mm
Finish Bore to:
2.25042.2500 in.
57.160257.1500 mm
Crankpin Bore Diameter (as bored)
3.43053.4297 in.
87.134787.1144 mm
Crankpin Bore Diameter (reassembled)
3.43093.4294 in.
87.144987.1068 mm
Page 313
SPECIFICATIONS
Component
English
Metric
Bearing ID (in place)
2.99933.0013 in.
76.182276.2330 mm
Twist (within 12 in./30.48 cm)
0.010 in.
0.254 mm
Bend (within 12 in./30.48 cm)
0.004 in.
0.1016 mm
End Play
0.0040.013 in.
0.1020.330 mm
Crankpin Journal OD
3.2483.247 in.
82.499282.4738 mm
Main Journal OD
4.49744.4964 in.
114.2340114.2086 mm
Journal Out-of-Round or Taper (maximum diameter)
0.00035 in.
0.00889 mm
Max. Runout at No. 4 Journal (shaft supported on No. 1

and No. 7)
0.005 in.
0.127 mm
Production
0.125 in.
3.175 mm
Service Replacement
0.219 in.
5.563 mm
Main Journal to Bearing Clearance
0.00220.0056 in.
0.056142 mm
Front and Rear Oil Seals Square to Crankshaft (Must Be

Held Relative to Main Bearing Bores)
0.010 in.
0.254 mm
Production
0.344 in.
8.738 mm
Service Replacement
0.250 in.
6.350 mm
Deck Flatness
0.002 in.
0.0508 mm
Dowel Pin Holes (flywheel housing to block mounting)
0.62370.6247 in.
15.842015.8674 mm
Cylinder Bore in Block (upper)
5.5015.500 in.
139.725139.970 mm
Cylinder Bore in Block (lower)
5.12665.1250 in.
130.2156130.1750 mm
Cylinder Bore Out-of-Round or Taper (on diameter)

(During manufacturing the cylinder bores are honed with a
torque-plate [simulated cylinder head] installed).
0.004 in. max., without torque

plate installed
0.1016 mm
Sleeve OD (at upper pilot diameter)
5.50405.5030 in.
139.8016139.7762 mm
Sleeve Bead for Fire Ring (protrusion above sleeve

channel)
0.00670.010 in.
0.17020.2540 mm
Sleeve in Bore (upper press-fit)
0.0040.002 in.
0.10160.0508 mm
Sleeve in Bore (lower loose fit)
0.00290.0003 in.
0.07370.0076 mm
Main Bearing Bore in Block
4.8184.817 in.
122.3772122.3518 mm
Main Bearing-to-Crankshaft Journal Clearance
0.00220.0056 in.
0.05590.1422 mm
Main Bearing ID (in place)
4.5024.4996 in.
104.3508114.2898 mm
CRANKSHAFT
Front Oil Seal Installation Depth
Rear Oil Seal Installation Depth
CYLINDER BLOCK
Note: Extension of the cylinder sleeve above the cylinder block deck can vary under the same head, as long as all are within
the 0.0230.029 inch (0.5840.737 mm) specification.
Cyl. Sleeve Flange Channel to Block Deck (Do Not
Measure from Top of Bead)
0.0230.029 in.
0.5840.737 mm
Cyl. Sleeve ID (Installed, See NOTE 8 CYLINDER

SLEEVE ID on page 328.)
4.87554.877 in.
123.838123.876 mm
EUP Tappet Bore
1.73201.7336 in.
43.99344.033 mm
EUP Tappet OD
1.72991.7307 in.
43.93943.960 mm
EUP Tappet-to-Bore Clearance
0.00130.0037 in.
0.0330.094 mm
Page 314
SPECIFICATIONS
Component
English
Metric
Valve Roller Follower Bore
1.12451.1255 in.
28.56228.588 mm
Valve Roller Follower OD
1.1221.123 in.
28.49928.524 mm
Valve Roller Follower-to-Bore Clearance
0.00150.0035 in.
0.0380.089 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Bore
1.12451.1255 in.
28.56228.588 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring OD
1.12611.1265 in.
28.60328.613 mm
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring-to-Bore Press Fit
0.00060.0020 in.
0.0150.051 mm
Alignment Across Exhaust Ports
0.005 in.
0.127 mm
Deck Flatness (over 18 in./45.72 cm)
0.0015 in.
0.0381 mm
Overall Height
6.3916.397 in.
162.331162.484 mm
Fire Ring Groove (width)
0.0300.036 in.
0.7620.914 mm
Fire Ring Groove (depth)
0.0050.013 in.
0.1270.330 mm
Fire Ring Groove (ID)
5.1375.139 in.
130.479130.531 mm
Valve Guide OD
0.68860.6881 in.
17.490417.4777 mm
Valve Guide Ream ID (after installation, inlet and exhaust,

used with 3/8 valve stem)
0.37450.3755 in.
9.51239.5377 mm
Top End of Valve Guide to Valve Spring Seat
0.959 0.040 in.
24.359 1.016 mm
Valve Guide Bore in Head
0.6860.687 in.
17.42417.450 mm
Valve Guide to Bore (press-fit)
0.00110.0026 in.
0.02790.0660 mm
Valve Guide Extension (fire deck to top of guide)
5.24 0.03 in.
113.096 0.762 mm
Yoke Guide Pin OD
0.43890.4392 in.
11.148111.1557 mm
Yoke Guide Pin Installed Height
1.8481.918 in.
46.93948.717 mm
Valve Seat Width (inlet and exhaust)
0.0510.081 or
1/16 1/64 in.
1.2952.057 or
1.588 0.397 mm
Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (inlet)
20 30 15
Valve Seat Insert Face Angle (exhaust)
30 0/+30
Valve Seat-to-Guide Runout
0.002 in. F.I.M.
0.0508 mm
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter (inlet)
1.82851.8295 in.
46.443946.4693 mm
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore Diameter (exhaust)
1.68751.6885 in.
42.862542.8879 mm
Valve Seat OD (inlet)
1.8311.832 in.
46.50746.533 mm
Valve Seat OD (exhaust)
1.6921.693 in.
42.97743.002 mm
Valve Seat Insert (inlet, press-fit in head)
0.00150.0035 in.
0.03810.0889 mm
Valve Seat Insert (exhaust, press-fit in head)
0.00350.0055 in.
0.08890.1397 mm
Valve Seat Counterbore Depth (inlet)
0.3600.364 in.
9.1449.246 mm
Valve Seat Counterbore Depth (exhaust)
0.3720.376 in.
9.4499.550 mm
CYLINDER HEAD
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert Bore

Upper and 2nd Bore
1.07401.0754 in.
27.28027.315 mm
Lower Bore
1.0581.060 in.
26.87326.924 mm
Lobing (Max. per 30-degree Segment)
0.0004 in.
0.010 mm
Upper and 2nd Sealing Diameters
1.07731.0781 in.
27.36327.384 mm
Lower Sealing Diameter
1.061451.06225 in.
26.96126.981 mm
Injection Nozzle Holder Insert OD
Page 315
SPECIFICATIONS
Component
English
Metric
FLYWHEEL AND HOUSING

Dowel Pin Hole, Flywheel Housing (round pin, LH)
0.62590.6263 in.
15.897915.9080 mm
Dowel Pin Hole, Flywheel Housing (blade pin, RH)
0.68310.6835 in.
17.350717.3609 mm
Dowel Pin Diameter (round pin, LH)
0.62510.6253 in.
15.877515.8826 mm
Dowel Pin Diameter (blade pin, RH)
0.62510.6253 in.
15.877515.8826 mm
Cylinder Block End
0.62510.6253 in.
15.877515.8826 mm
Flywheel Housing End
0.68200.6825 in.
17.322817.3355 mm
Crankshaft Seal Mounting Bore
6.7486.752 in.
171.3992171.5008 mm
Starter Motor Mounting Bore
3.6253.629 in.
92.07592.117 mm
Transmission Mounting Face Axial Runout
0.008 in. TIR (Max)*
0.203 mm TIR (Max)*
Transmission Pilot Bore Radial Runout
0.254 mm TIR (Max)*
Rear Seal Bore Radial Runout (See NOTE 9 REAR

SEAL BORE RADIAL RUNOUT on page 328.)
0.2329 mm TIR (Max)*
* Note: Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block
main bearing bores.
FUEL SUPPLY PUMP
Pump Gear End Play (steel gear)
0.008 in. (Max)
0.203 mm (Max)
Pump Gear End Play (plastic gear)
0.019 in. (Max)
0.483 mm (Max)
IDLER GEAR
Gear Journal Clearance
0.00220.0045 in.
0.0560.114 mm
Gear End Play
0.0030.009 in.
0.0760.228 mm
0.015 in.
0.381 mm
Gear to Cover End Clearance
0.00350.0060 in.
0.0890.152 mm
Oil Pump OD to Cavity Clearance
0.0030.0045 in.
0.0760.114 mm
Oil Pump Gear Backlash (Inside Pump)
0.0180.035 in.
0.4570.889 mm
Oil Pump Drive Gear to Driven Gear Backlash
0.0080.016 in.
0.2030.406 mm
JACOBS ENGINE BRAKE

Slave Piston Lash Adjustment
OIL PUMP
Relief Valve Spring (free length)
6.4 in.
162.6 mm
Relief Valve Spring Pressure

(compressed to 5.56 in./14.12 cm)
63 lbs.
28.6 kg
Relief Valve Opening Pressure
90115 psi
621793 kPa
PISTON
Top Extension Above/Below Cyl. Block Deck at TDC
+0.020 to 0.002 in.
+0.508 to 0.051 mm
Wrist Pin Bore
2.25012.2509 in.
57.15357.173 mm
Wrist Pin Length
3.8203.825 in.
97.02897.155 mm
Wrist Pin-to-Piston/Bore Clearance

(The 2-piece piston crown had bushings prior to mid-1999,
and no bushings after that date. Both versions have the
same clearance specifications.)
0.00120.0021 in.
0.02970.0547 mm
Wrist Pin OD
2.248752.24895 in.
57.1182557.12333 mm
Piston-to-Liner Clearance
(2-piece piston, 90 degrees from pin axis)
0.00300.0050 in.
0.07620.1270 mm
Page 316
SPECIFICATIONS
Component
Ring Groove Service Limit, Top
(over 0.120 in./3.048 mm pins)
English
Metric
4.912 in.
124.765 mm
Compression Ring End Gap (No. 349GC3101)
0.0160.028 in.
0.4060.711 mm
Compression Ring End Gap (No. 349GC3102)
0.0130.025 in.
0.3300.635 mm
Oil Control Ring End Gap (No. 350GC340)
0.0130.028 in.
0.3300.711 mm
Piston Ring Side Clearance (new)
0.00160.0030 in.
0.04060.0762 mm
Piston Ring Side Clearance (used)
Maximum 0.0045 in.
Maximum 0.1143 mm
PISTON RINGS
Note: End gap checked in 4.875 gauge diameter. For every 0.001-inch (0.0254-mm) increase in gauge diameter, ring gap will
increase by 0.003 inch (0.076 mm). Refer to a MACK branch or dealer for specifications for piston ring part numbers not
listed above.
ROCKER ARM
Rocker Arm Ratio
1.5:1
Rocker Arm Hole ID
1.13061.1326 in.
28.717228.7680 mm
Rocker Arm Hole-to-Shaft Clearance
0.0040.0015 in.
0.10160.0381 mm
Rocker Arm Shaft OD
1.12861.1291 in.
28.666428.6791 mm
Push Rod Overall Length

(from ball end, 0.560 in./14.224 mm ball placed in cup)
14.10814.170 in.
358.343359.918 mm
Idler Gear to Camshaft Gear Backlash
0.0010.008 in.
0.0250.203 mm
Camshaft Gear to Auxiliary Shaft Gear Backlash
0.0010.009 in.
0.0250.229 mm
Camshaft Gear to Fuel Supply Pump Gear Backlash
0.0010.008 in.
0.0250.203 mm
Crankshaft Gear to Idler Gear Backlash
0.0010.008 in.
0.0250.203 mm
Dowel Pin Holes (both, in cylinder block)
0.49870.4997 in.
12.667012.6924 mm
Dowel Pin Hole (round pin, in front cover, RH)
0.50050.5012 in.
12.712712.7305 mm
Dowel Pin Hole (blade pin, in front cover, LH)
0.55770.5584 in.
14.165614.1834 mm
Dowel Pin OD (round pin, RH)
0.50010.5003 in.
12.702512.7076 mm
Dowel Pin OD (blade pin, in cylinder block, LH)
0.50010.5003 in.
12.702512.7076 mm
Dowel Pin OD (blade pin, in front cover, LH)
0.55700.5575 in.
14.147814.1605 mm
Crankshaft Seal Mounting Bore
3.99954.0025 in.
101.5873101.6635 mm
Timing Gear Cover Seal Mounting Bore to Crankshaft

Runout
0.015 in. TIR (Max)
0.381 mm TIR (Max)
Timing Gear Cover Seal Square to Crankshaft
0.010 in. (Max)
0.254 mm (Max)
Hydraulic Steering Pump Mounting Bore
3.25253.2545 in.
82.613582.6643 mm
TIMING GEAR AND FRONT COVER
Note: Must be held relative to main bearing bores. Check runout with an alignment bar installed through the cylinder block
main bearing bores.
TURBOCHARGER
Shaft End Play (models S300, S400)
0.0030.006 in.
0.07620.1524 mm
Bearing Radial Check (measured at bearings)
0.0180.029 in.
0.45720.7366 mm
0.016 in.
0.406 mm
VALVES
Lash Setting (Rocker Arm to Valve Guide Yoke Clearance)
Cold*
Inlet (adjustment at scheduled intervals)
Page 317
SPECIFICATIONS
Component
English
Metric
Inlet (acceptable range for interim checks)
0.0120.020 in.
0.3050.508 mm
Exhaust (adjustment at scheduled intervals)
0.024 in.
0.601 mm
Exhaust (acceptable range for interim checks)
0.0200.028 in.
0.5080.711 mm
* Note: Valve Yoke Setting must be completed at each location with the respective piston at TDC firing position prior to
setting the (cold static) rocker arm lash. (See procedure in this manual for engines with J-Tech Brake.)
Valve Face to Deck (inlet)
+0.0425 0.007 in.
+1.0795 0.1778 mm
Valve Face to Deck (exhaust)
0.021 0.007 in.
1.5334 0.1778 mm
Valve Stem-to-Guide (inlet)
0.00150.0035 in.
0.03810.0889 mm
Valve Stem-to-Guide (exhaust)
0.00250.0045 in.
0.06350.1143 mm
Valve Stem OD (inlet, 3/8 in.)
0.3730.372 in.
9.4749.449 mm
Valve Stem OD (exhaust, 3/8 in.)
0.37200.3710 in.
9.44889.4234 mm
VALVE SEAT ANGLE

Exhaust
30 + 0/ 30
Inlet
20 30 15
VALVE SPRINGS
Free length
2.830 in.
71.882 mm
Spring pressure when compressed to 1.5 in. (38.1 mm)
190210 lbs
86.18495.256 kg
Page 318
SPECIFICATIONS
E-Tech Component Torque
Specifications
All components are to be clean and free from

foreign material or corrosion. Assemblies are to
be made using suitable tools and procedures so
that no permanent damage will occur as a result
of the assembly.
Threads, washer and underhead of screw or
washer face of nuts should be lubricated with
engine oil, unless otherwise specified.
The following listed fasteners require the use of a
calibrated manual torque wrench.
Fasteners noted by a star * require retorque after
engine run-in.
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR CRITICAL FASTENERS

CRITICAL FASTENERS
Torque
Fastener Name
Lb-Ft
Nm
60
81
80 (Dry)
108 (Dry)
300 (Dry)
405 (Dry)
Aux. Shaft Thrust Washer to Block Screw
15
20
Aux. Shaft Hole Cover Stud Nut
40
55
Oil Supply Screw
4-6
5-8
Jake Brake Housing Hold-Down Screw
45
61
Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw Jam Nut
40
55
Cyl. Head Cover Mounting Screw
16
22
Slave Piston Adjusting Screw Jam Nut
25
34
Yoke Adjusting Screw Nut (locknut on actuator pin screw)
33
44
15
20
30 + 90
41 + 90
150
203
AIR COMPRESSOR
Air Compr. Coupling to Air Compr. Retaining Nut
Air Compr. to Cyl. Block Mounting Screw
AUXILIARY DRIVE
Aux. Shaft Gear Retaining Nut (See NOTE 1 AUXILIARY SHAFT GEAR
RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION on page 328.)
BRAKE COMPONENTS JACOBS
CAMSHAFT
Camshaft Thrust Washer to Cyl. Block Screw
CONNECTING ROD
Connecting Rod Screw Angle Torque (Rods utilizing M14 threads, and capto-rod alignment sleeves)
Connecting Rod Screw (Rod utilizing M16 threads, and no cap-to-rod
alignment sleeves)
Page 319
SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name
Lb-Ft
Nm
Vibration Damper Hub to Crank Screw
360
490
Vibration Damper to Hub Screw
45
61
Main Bearing Capscrew (See NOTE 2 MAIN BEARING CAP

INSTALLATION on page 328.)
210
285
Cylinder Block Main Brg. Cap Buttress Screw (See NOTE 2 MAIN
BEARING CAP INSTALLATION on page 328.)
95
128
Cylinder Head Capscrew* (See NOTE 3 CYLINDER HEAD TORQUING

on page 328.)
205
278
Cylinder Head Cover Screw*
16
22
Inlet Manifold to Cyl. Head Screw
40
55
EECU to Cyl. Block Mtg. Screw
31
42
EECU Isolating Studs
18
24
EECU Mounting Nuts
15
20
CRANKSHAFT
CYLINDER BLOCK
CYLINDER HEAD
ELECTRONIC UNITS
EECU Cooling Plate Screw
12
16
13 lb-in 2 lb-in
1.5 0.2
42
57
Fan Drive Pulley to Hub Screw
25
34
Poly-V Belt Tensioner Mounting Screw
40
55
Flywheel Hsg. to Cylinder Block Screw
170
230
Flywheel to Crankshaft Screw
185
250
Clutch to Flywheel Mounting Screw
40
55
Transmission to Flywheel Hsg. Screw
40
55
Fuel Filter Brkt. to Inlet Mfld. Screw
35
47
Fuel Supply Gallery Fitting Locknut
27
37
Fuel Return Gallery Ftg. (Check Valve) Locknut
27
37
Fuel Supply Pump to Cyl. Block Screw
40
55
Inj. Nozzle Holder Hold-Down Screw
45
61
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Clamp Screw to Cyl. Head
35
47
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Nut at Cylinder Head
25
34
Noz. Fuel Inlet Tube Nut at EUP
25
34
Oil Cooler Fitting to Water Pump Mounting Screw
60
81
Oil Cooler Oil Inlet and Outlet Tube Flange Mounting Screw
40
55
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Fitting to Oil Filter Mounting Adapter Screw
40
55
Electronic Unit Pump Terminal Screw

Electronic Unit Pump to Cyl. Block Screw
FAN DRIVE
FLYWHEEL, FLYWHEEL HOUSING AND CLUTCH
FUEL SYSTEM
INJECTOR NOZZLE AND NOZZLE FUEL INLET TUBE
OIL COOLER Bundle-Type
Page 320
SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name
Oil Cooler Water Inlet and Water Outlet Ftg. to Oil Cooler Screw
Lb-Ft
Nm
20
27
OIL COOLER Plate-Type

Oil Cooler Tube to Water Pump (MR Model Stud)
20
27
Oil Cooler Tube to Water Pump
40
55
Oil Cooler to Brkt.
20
27
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Brkt. Fittings 1/4 NPT (Turbo, REPTO)
12
16
Oil Cooler/Oil Filter Brkt. to Cylinder Block
40
55
Centrifugal Oil Filter Drain Fitting Stud Nut
40
55
Centrifugal Oil Filter Mounting Adapter
150
203
Centri-Max Plus Spindle (LSR)
15
20
Centri-Max Plus Cover (LSR)
15
20
Oil Filter Pedestal to Cyl. Block Screw
60
81
Oil Filter Relief Valve Plunger Spring Cap
100
135
Oil Filter Adapter to Oil Cooler Brkt. Screw
40
55
Oil Pan Drain Plug
55
75
Oil Pan to Cyl. Block Fastener (8 mm Screw)
23
31
Oil Pan to Cyl. Block Shoulder Bolt/Stud
15
20
Oil Pump Cover to Housing Screw
15
20
Oil Pump to Cyl. Block Mtg. Screw
40
55
Oil Pump Shaft Driven Gear Retaining Nut
60
81
Oil Pump Inlet Ftg. to Oil Pump Hsg. Screw
35
47
Oil Pump Pressure Relief Valve Cap
80
108
15
20
Coolant Temp. (1/2 NPT, Side Mount on Water Manifold)
23
31
Oil Temp. (1/4 NPT, Mount on Oil Filter Pedestal
18
24
Oil Temp. (1/2 NPT, Side Mount on Oil Pan)
23
31
Ambient Air Temperature (1/2 NPT)
23
31
Boost Air Temperature (M16 x 2)
28
38
Coolant Temperature (3/8 NPT, Rear Mount on Water Manifold)
23
31
Fuel Temperature (3/8 NPT)
23
31
Oil Pressure (M10 x 1.5)
12
16
Engine Speed & Position (Flywheel Hsg. and Engine Front Cover)
10
Breather Mounting Screws
15
20
Timing Cover and Frt. Support Brkt. to Cyl. Block Screw
70
95
OIL FILTER
OIL PAN
OIL PUMP
PISTON COOLING
Piston Cooling Nozzle to Cyl. Block Screw
SENSORS (FOR DASH DISPLAY)
SENSORS (V-MAC III)
TIMING GEAR COVER (ENGINE FRONT COVER)
Page 321
SPECIFICATIONS
Torque
Fastener Name
Lb-Ft
Nm
40
55
Turbo to Exhaust Manifold Stud Nut
40
55
Turbo Oil Inlet Tube to Turbo Screw
15
20
Turbo Oil Drain Tube to Turbo Screw
15
20
20 (Dry)
27 (Dry)
Exh. Mfld. to Cyl. Head Stud Nut (12 mm Full Threaded Stud, See
NOTE 4 EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING on page 328)
80
109
Oil Fill/Turbo Drain to Block Screw
40
55
40
55
Timing Cover to Cyl. Block Screw

TURBO AND EXHAUST MANIFOLD
Exh. Mfld. to Cyl. Head Stud (Install with Loctite 272. See NOTE 4
EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING on page 328.)
VALVE ROCKER ARM

Valve Rocker Arm Bracket to Cylinder Head Screw
Valve Rocker Arm Adjusting Screw Jam Nut
40
55
Valve Yoke Adjusting Screw Jam Nut (See NOTE 5 VALVE YOKE
SETTING on page 328.)
33
45
Valve Rocker Arm Shaft Locating Screw
23
31
Water Pump Shaft Locknut
80
108
Water Manifold to Cylinder Head Screw
33
44
Water Pump Housing to Cylinder Block Screw
60
81
Water Pump Cover to Water Pump Hsg. Screw
15
20
Alternator Mtg. Stud Nut
70
95
Coolant Conditioner Adapter/Thermostat Housing Mounting Screw
15
20
WATER MANIFOLD AND WATER PUMP
MISCELLANEOUS
Heat Shield-to-Cylinder Block Mounting Studs
15
20
Heat Shield Mounting Nuts
15
20
Heat Shield Standoff Studs
18
24
Hydraulic Steering Pump to Engine Front Cover Stud Nut
40
55
Idler Gear Hub to Cyl. Block Screw
70
95
Oil Dipstick Guide Tube Compression Nut
24
33
Page 322
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR HOSE CLAMPS
HOSE CLAMPS (SEE NOTE 6 HOSE CLAMP INSTALLATION POSITIONING INFORMATION ON PAGE 328)
Torque
Fastener Name
Lb-In
Nm
Air Inlet Systems
38
Oil Drain Systems
28
Water or Coolant Systems
28
Hi-Torque Heavy-Duty Worm Clamp
80
T-Bolt Type Hose Clamp
50
For Standard SAE J536 Type F Hose Clamps
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR PIPE PLUGS

PIPE PLUGS (SEE NOTE 7 PIPE PLUG SEALING ON PAGE 328)
Torque
Pipe Plug Size
Lb-Ft
Nm
1/8 NPT
1/4 NPT
18
24
3/8 NPT
23
31
1/2 NPT
23
31
55
3565
68
4888
1 NPT
43
58
1-1/4 NPT
75
101
3/4 NPT Cylinder Head

3/4 NPT Other
Page 323
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS
E-TECH ENGINE-MOUNTED SENSORS
Description
Sensor and Sensor Mounting Hardware
V-MAC III Engine Speed

Sensor
64MT348M sensor and 505GC28 P15 and

P30 shims, as required. Sensor is retained
by one 66AM3 capscrew with M6 x 1.0
metric threads.
None
7 lb-ft (10 Nm)
V-MAC III Fuel

Temperature Sensor
64MT2103 sensor only
3/8-inch NPT English

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
V-MAC III Oil Pressure

Sensor

pipe threads
12 lb-ft (16 Nm)
V-MAC III Boost Air

Temperature Sensor
64MT2102 sensor only (no washer

required; replaces sensor P/N 64MT2111M
sensor and washer P/N 57AM5)

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
V-MAC III Boost

Pressure Sensor
(Optional and Electronic
Dash)
46MT2101
1/4-inch NPT
18 lb-ft (24 Nm)
Ambient Air Temperature

Sensor (Mounted on
front of chassis)
64MT2118M

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
Dash Gauge Coolant

Temperature Sensor
64MT2112M sensor only

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
V-MAC III Coolant

Temperature Sensor

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
V-MAC III Engine

Position Sensor
64MT348M sensor and 505GC28 P15 and

P30 shims, as required. Sensor is retained
by one 66AM3 capscrew with M6 x 1.0
metric threads.
None
7 lb-ft (10 Nm)
Dash Gauge Oil

Temperature Sensor
(Standard Dash)
Non-Current
64MT2112M (Sensor mounts in oil pan)

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
Dash Gauge Oil

Temperature Sensor
(Electronic Dash)
Non-Current
64MT2113M (Sensor mounts in oil pan)

pipe threads
23 lb-ft (31 Nm)
Dash Gauge Oil

Temperature Sensor
(Standard Dash)
Current Production
64T2116 (Sensor mounts in oil filter

pedestal)

pipe threads
20 lb-ft (27 Nm)
Dash Gauge Oil

Temperature Sensor
(Electronic Dash)
Current Production
64MT2103 (Sensor mounts in oil filter

pedestal)

pipe threads
20 lb-ft (27 Nm)
Overtorquing a sensor or sensor mounting screw

can result in sensor breakage or thread damage.
Page 324
Sensor Threads
Mounting Torque
SPECIFICATIONS
TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS FOR NON-CRITICAL FASTENERS
PROPERTY CLASS 8.8
Tightening Torques
Size (mm)
Pitch
Lb-Ft
Nm
0.75
1.00
1.00
15
20
1.25
14
19
10
1.25
30
41
10
1.50
28
38
12
1.25
55
75
12
1.75
50
68
14
1.50
86
117
14
2.00
80
109
16
1.50
133
180
16
2.00
124
168
18
1.50
193
262
18
2.50
172
233
20
1.50
270
366
20
2.50
244
331
22
1.50
365
495
22
2.50
332
450
24
2.00
459
622
24
3.00
421
571
27
2.00
666
903
27
3.00
618
838
30
2.00
928
1258
30
3.50
838
1136
33
2.00
1250
1695
33
3.50
1140
1546
36
3.00
1551
2103
36
4.00
1465
1986
Page 325
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPERTY CLASS 9.8
Tightening Torques
Page 326
Size (mm)
Pitch
Lb-Ft
Nm
0.75
10
1.00
1.00
16
22
1.25
15
20
10
1.25
33
45
10
1.50
31
42
12
1.25
59
80
12
1.75
54
73
14
1.50
94
127
14
2.00
87
118
16
1.50
144
195
16
2.00
135
183
18
1.50
210
285
18
2.50
187
254
20
1.50
293
397
20
2.50
264
358
22
1.50
395
536
22
2.50
360
488
24
2.00
498
675
24
3.00
456
618
27
2.00
722
979
27
3.00
669
907
30
2.00
1005
1363
30
3.50
908
1231
33
2.00
1355
1837
33
3.50
1235
1674
36
3.00
1681
2279
36
4.00
1587
2152
SPECIFICATIONS
PROPERTY CLASS 10.9
Tightening Torques
Size (mm)
Pitch
Lb-Ft
Nm
0.75
12
1.00
11
1.00
21
29
1.25
20
27
10
1.25
42
57
10
1.50
40
54
12
1.25
76
103
12
1.75
69
94
14
1.50
120
163
14
2.00
111
151
16
1.50
184
250
16
2.00
172
233
18
1.50
268
363
18
2.50
239
324
20
1.50
374
507
20
2.50
337
457
22
1.50
505
685
22
2.50
460
624
24
2.00
636
862
24
3.00
583
790
27
2.00
922
1250
27
3.00
855
1159
30
2.00
1284
1741
30
3.50
1159
1571
33
2.00
1730
2346
33
3.50
1578
2140
36
3.00
2146
2910
36
4.00
2027
2748
Page 327
SPECIFICATIONS
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES
NOTE 4 EXHAUST MANIFOLD TORQUING
NOTE 1 AUXILIARY SHAFT GEAR

RETAINING NUT INSTALLATION
Torque exhaust manifold nuts to 35 lb-ft (47 Nm)

in a top-to-bottom sequence. Retorque to 80 lb-ft
(109 Nm) following the same top-to-bottom
sequence.
A new nut has pre-applied thread locker. No

degreasing of a new nut is recommended.
However, degrease shaft threads thoroughly
with Loctite Primer-T, or equivalent, prior to
nut installation.
It is acceptable to reuse an auxiliary drive

gear retaining nut. If reusing a nut, the nut
threads, as well as the shaft threads, must
also be thoroughly cleaned with Loctite
Primer-T, or equivalent, and Loctite 277
used on the nut and shaft threads.
NOTE 2 MAIN BEARING CAP

INSTALLATION
Main bearing cap assembly shall be performed in
the following steps:
1. Buttress screws installed finger-tight in order
to align the hole in the block and the hole in
the main bearing cap.
2. Main bearing capscrews torqued.
3. Buttress screws torqued.
On some E-Tech engines, the exhaust

manifold-to-cylinder head stud hole may be
drilled deep enough to allow the stud to enter the
push rod bore. In these instances, the 20 lb-ft
(27 Nm) torque may not be reached until the
stud contacts the push rod. In all cases, a stud
protrusion of 1.75 inch (44.45 mm) must be
maintained.
NOTE 5 VALVE YOKE SETTING

1. Push down on the slipper face of yoke. Turn
down yoke adjusting screw until it contacts
outboard valve stem tip, as sensed by light
drag on adjusting screw.
2. Turn adjusting screw an additional
60 degrees (1/6 turn) clockwise.
3. Holding yoke adjusting screw in this
position, lock jam nut.
NOTE 3 CYLINDER HEAD TORQUING

Cylinder head assembly and torquing is to be
performed as follows:
1. Oil all cylinder head capscrew bosses,
capscrew threads and washers with engine
oil prior to assembly. Do not oil threads in
cylinder block. Using torque wrench
J 24407, or equivalent, tighten capscrews to
specification in three stages on any one
head in the proper sequence, as shown in
the Engine Reassembly procedures section.
a.
Initially, torque all capscrews in

sequence to 50 lb-ft (68 Nm).
b.

125 lb-ft (170 Nm).
c.

the final torque value of 205 lb-ft
(278 Nm).
2. After run-in procedure, in sequence, back off

each capscrew individually until free. Then
retorque same capscrew to 205 lb-ft
(278 Nm).
Page 328
NOTE 6 HOSE CLAMP INSTALLATION

POSITIONING INFORMATION
The band of any hose clamp in all installations
should be a minimum of 0.090 inch (2.3 mm) from
the end of the hose and must be clear of tube
bead.
NOTE 7 PIPE PLUG SEALING
All pipe plugs must be sealed using Loctite PST
pipe thread sealant with Teflon, or equivalent.
NOTE 8 CYLINDER SLEEVE ID
Cylinder sleeve ID may be 4.872 inch
(123.749 mm) minimum at top of sleeve due to
close-in from press fit.
NOTE 9 REAR SEAL BORE RADIAL
RUNOUT
Runout is to be checked with an alignment bar
installed through the cylinder block main bearing
bores.
SPECIFICATIONS
E-TECH ENGINE LUBRICANT
AND SEALANT
SPECIFICATIONS
Use only the following recommended sealing
compounds and lubricants.
All genuine MACK cylinder head gaskets are

precoated and do not require any type of sealing
compound. Before installing new gaskets,
degrease both gasket sealing surfaces to avoid
leaks.
Location
Sealant or Lubricant
Camshaft gear assembly
Loctite 609
Cup plugs/threaded plugs
Loctite 277 or equivalent/Teflon thread sealer
Injection nozzle holder inserts (upper and lower end)
Loctite 620
Chassis-mounted charge air cooling system (core sealing)
Dow Corning No. 1200 primer, Dow Corning RTV 734

adhesive (clear), and naphtha solvent or equivalent
Cylinder sleeve seat
MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No.

342SX32
Oil filter sealing gasket
Clean engine oil
Holding metal parts in place
MACK MG-C grease or petroleum jelly (Vaseline)
Valve stems and guides
Dow Corning BR2 Plus Multi-Purpose Grease
Engine front cover (timing gear cover)
MACK Silastic (RTV Silicone Adhesive Sealant) part No.

342SX32
Engine parts, fasteners (sides and threads), and washers
Clean engine oil
Exhaust manifold studs
Loctite 272 high temperature thread sealer
Oil cooler assembly
Permatex gasket sealer
Oil cooler assembly O-ring
Drydene No. 4000
O-rings (except as noted)
MACK O-ring lubricant part No. 243SX41
Sensor, engine oil pressure
Sealing compound on threads
Sensor, intake manifold temperature

Sensor, coolant temperature
Sensor, coolant level
Crankshaft flange and wear ring
Loctite 609
Turbocharger mounting nuts
Fel Pro C5A
Centri-Max PLUS Spindle Threads
Loctite 271
Page 329
SPECIFICATIONS
FASTENER TORQUE
Fastener Selection and Installation
Selection and correct installation of threaded
fasteners are essential parts of any assembly or
rebuild procedure. Fasteners hold much of a
vehicle together. If a fastener fails to do its job
properly, it can cause a minor problem such as a
loose mirror, or a large problem, such as loss of
steering control.
Because there are so many styles of fasteners, in
various sizes and quality grades, a mechanic
must have a working familiarity with the fasteners
commonly used in vehicles. Only in this way can
the correct selection and installation of the proper
fastener be ensured. Each fastener is intended to
do a particular job, and is selected by the vehicle
manufacturer for its suitability for that job.
Proper installation is as important as the selection

of the correct fastener. Improperly installing a
correct fastener is just as bad as using an
incorrect one. Undertightening and overtightening
both result in an improperly installed fastener.
When threaded fasteners are tightened, a slight
stretching of the fastener occurs, and it is this
stretching that binds the assembly together. If too
little tightening occurs, the slight stretching does
not happen, and the joint is not clamped securely.
If too much tightening occurs, the fastener will be
excessively stretched, causing narrowing of the
fastener and possibly breaking. Correct and
consistent use of a torque wrench ensures the
fasteners are properly tightened, and clamping
the pieces of the assembly together.
335
Figure 335 Fastener Grading System
Page 330
SPECIFICATIONS
Fastener Sizes and Types
The first and most important fact that the
mechanic must know about a fastener is whether
it is a U.S. (Inch System) or a metric thread. Next,
the size of the fastener, which is usually
determined by the diameter of the shank, the
length of the fastener, which is usually measured
from the bottom of the head to the end of the
thread, and the pitch of the threads.
The pitch of U.S. (Inch System) fasteners is
measured by determining the number of threads
per inch. The two pitches commonly used in
vehicles are coarse thread, officially called
Unified National Coarse (UNC), and fine thread,
officially called Unified National Fine (UNF).
336
The pitch of metric fasteners is measured by

determining the millimeters per thread. For
example, a bolt with 0.8 pitch would have 125
complete threads in a 100-millimeter section
(100 mm divided by 125 threads equals 0.8), and
a bolt with 1.0 pitch would have 100 threads in a
100-millimeter section. Pitch may be measured
directly, using a ruler and counting the threads.
Also, thread pitch gauges are available for both
U.S. and metric threads, which make it easy to
check the pitch of a fastener.
In the U.S. system, a typical designation would
be: 7/16-20 x 1. This describes a bolt that is
7/16 inch in diameter, has 20 threads per inch,
and is one inch long. The metric system is similar.
A typical metric designation would be: 10 x 0.8 x
25 mm. This describes a bolt that is 10 mm in
diameter, has a thread pitch of 0.8 (0.8 mm per
thread), and is 25 mm long.
337
Figure 337 Flanged Capscrew
Figure 336 Fastener Dimensions
Page 331
NOTES
Page 332
SCHEMATICS & DIAGRAMS
Page 333

ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS (FLUIDS FLOW)
Cooling System Flow Diagram
338
Figure 338 E-Tech Cooling Circuit
Page 334

Lubrication System Flow Diagram
339
Figure 339 E-Tech Oil Flow Schematic
Page 335

Fuel System Flow Diagram
340
Figure 340 E-Tech Fuel System
Page 336
SPECIAL TOOLS & EQUIPMENT
Page 337

E-TECH ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS
Special Tools for Engine Overhaul
Tool No.
Description
814
Midget Seal Tool
00-18238
Jacobs Slave Piston Tool
014177
Jacobs Thickness Gauge, 0.085 inch (2.16 mm)
018781
021327
022001
945-6041
Connecting Rod Fixture (Sweeney)
HT77136
Valve Seat Insert Counterbore
J 2619-01
Slide Hammer
J 4558-O1
Flywheel Remover
J 5347-B
Dial Bore Gauge
J 5853-C
Torque Wrench (3/8 DR, 0-600 IN)
J 5902-01
Cylinder Hone and Glaze Breaker
J 6125-1B
Slide Hammer (5/16-18 thread with 3/8-16 adapter)
J 6692-B
Cylinder Compression Gauge
J 7872
Magnetic Base Indicator Tool
J 8092
Universal Driver Handle (threaded 3/4-10)
J 21428-01
Camshaft Bushing Remover and Installer Set
J 21588
Injector Gasket Retriever
J 21834-4A
Two Jaw Adjustable Puller
J 22738-02
Universal Spring Tester, Model MST 50
J 23442
Piston Ring Compressor
J 23775-01
Torque Wrench (100600 lb-ft)
J 24406
J 24407
J 24783
Fuel/Oil Filter Wrench (spin-on)
J 25026-A
Flywheel Lifting Sling
J 26589
Nozzle Insert Carbon Reamer
J 26637-A
Thermostat Seal Installer
J 26948
Depth Gauge
J 29075-B
Fuel Injection Nozzle Tester (use with J 42639 Adapter Set)
J 29109
Engine Stand
J 29294-B
Valve Spring Keeper Remover
J 29296
Valve Yoke Guide Pin Installer
J 29297
Nozzle Sleeve Installer
J 29510
Keystone Piston Ring Groove Gauge
J 29539-15
Top Dead Center Indicator Metric Adapter
J 29539-A
Top Dead Center (TDC) Indicator
Page 338

Tool No.
Description
J 29600-C
Fire Ring Groove Cutter
J 29653-A
Ultrasonic Nozzle Cleaner
J 29880
Nozzle Sleeve Extractor
J 34046-A
Compression Gauge Adapter Set
J 34046-5
Compression Tester Metric Adapter (used with J 34046-A)
J 34684
Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (13/16 inch)
J 34687
Cylinder Head Core Plug Installer (1-1/16 inch)
J 35529
Wear Ring and Seal Installer
J 37077
Position Sensor
J 37093
Injection Nozzle Puller
J 37481
Valve Guide Reamer (3/8-inch diameter)
J 37482
Valve Guide Remover (3/8 inch)
J 37712
Flywheel Housing/Timing Cover Locating Pin Driver
J 37713
Camshaft Bushing Installation Removal Kit (use with J 21428-01 Kit)
J 37715-A
Crankshaft Front Seal Installer
J 37715-2
Crankshaft Front Seal Installation Spacer (use with J 37715-A Front Seal Installer)
J 37716-A
Rear Seal Installer
J 37716-B
Crankshaft Rear Seal Installer
J 37717
Connecting Rod Bushing Remover/Installer
J 37718
Piston Pin Burnishing Broach
J 37719
Fire Ring Groove Cutter
J 37720-C
Tappet Holders
J 37721-A
Piston Cooling Nozzle Spray Position Set (for 1989/1990 production)
J 37809
Valve Guide Installer (3/8 inch)
J 38048
Engine Stand Adapter Plate
J 38586
Valve Seat Installation Set
J 38587-A
Engine Barring Socket
J 38880
Wear Ring Installer
J 39045
Two-Piece Piston Cooling Nozzle Aimer (for 1991 and later production)
J 39258-A
Engine Pre-Luber
J 39460
Valve Stem Seal Removal Tool (3/8 in.)
J 39500-B
A/C Recovery & Recycling Unit (R-134a)
J 41071
Air Compressor Coupling Holding Wrench
J 41251-B
Belt Tension Gauge
J 41461
Camshaft Removal/Installation Tool
J 41473
Charge Air Cooler Tester
J 41682
Camshaft Removal/Installation Guide
J 41683
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Installer
J 42185
Belt Tension Gauge
J 42377
Camshaft Bushing Remover/Installer (use with J 21428-01 Cam Bushing Remover/

Installer Set)
J 42425
Valve Lifter/Roller Follower Magnetic Retainers (use with top rods from J 37720-B Tappet
Holder Kit)
Page 339

Tool No.
Description
J 42426
Valve Roller Follower H-Ring Remover (use with J 6125-1B Slide Hammer)
J 42453
Valve Seal Installer
J 42490
Camshaft Cup Plug Installer (use with J 8092 Driver Handle)
J 42595
Fuel Injection Nozzle Sleeve Installer
J 42639
Fuel Injection Nozzle Tester Adapter Set (use with J 29075-B, Nozzle Tester)
J 42678
Fuel Injection Nozzle Sleeve Puller (use with J 2619-01 Slide Hammer)
J 42680
Fuel Injection Nozzle Combustion Gasket Seat Carbon Reamer
J 43887
Valve Spring Compressor
PT2210
Counterbore Tool
PT2210-14
Hex Key Wrench
PT2210-3A
Counterbore Cutter Plate
PT5025
Universal Dial Depth Gauge
PT5025-11
3-inch Stylus Extension
PT 5027
Cylinder Head/Block Straightedge (36 in.)
PT5035
Flywheel Housing Dial Indicator Set
PT5035-1
Flywheel Housing Indicator Extension
PT6390
Valve Seat Extractor Kit (complete with collets)
PT6390-4
Collet
PT6391
Valve Seat Extractor Kit (basic)
PT6435
Cylinder Liner/Sleeve Puller (lubricate with extreme pressure lubricant J 23444-A)
PT6570-11
Dowelout, Extractor (7/16 inch)
PT6575
Basic Heavy-Duty Dowelout Kit
PT6587
Piston Ring Expander
PT7070-A
Piston Ring Compressor
Page 340

V-MAC III Special Tools
Tool No.
Description
J 37490
Diesel Electronic Connector Replacement Kit
J 38351-B
Serial Link Adapter Assembly
J 38480
Portable Printer (use with J 38500-1)
J 38500-1
Pro-Link Diagnostic Scan Tool
J 38500-60A
Pro-Link Cable (to vehicle), 6-Pin Deutsch
J 38500-61
PC Interface Cable
J 38500-63
Serial Link Jumper (Deutsch-to-Deutsch)
J 38500-630A
Pro-Link V-MAC III Diagnostic Cartridge
J 38500-1500C
Pro-Link Multi-Protocol Cartridge
J 38581
Connector, Test Adapter Kit
J 38582
Terminal Crimping and Removal Tool Kit
J 38675B
Pro-Link 9000 Analyzer with V-MAC III Diagnostic Cartridge
J 38740
V-MAC Hub Barring Tool
J 38748
V-MAC Test Lead, Seven-Pin Connector
J 39200
Fluke Model 87 Digital Multi-Meter
Page 341
NOTES
Page 342
Index.fm Page 343 Friday, August 4, 2000 11:16 AM
INDEX
INDEX
Page 343
INDEX
A
ABOUT THE E-TECH ENGINE AND ITS
SERVICE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7
ABOUT THIS MANUAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6
ADVISORY LABELS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
AIR COMPRESSOR . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
AIR COMPRESSOR INSTALLATION . . . . . .267
AIR COMPRESSOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . .117
AIR INLET MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . .276
AIR INLET MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . .112
ALTERNATOR INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . .281
ALTERNATOR REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
ASSEMBLING CONNECTING ROD
TO PISTON . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .180
AUTOMATICALLY TENSIONED
SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .88
AUXILIARY SHAFT AND CAMSHAFT
BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
AUXILIARY SHAFT BUSHING
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .148
AUXILIARY SHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . .168
AUXILIARY SHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . .245
AUXILIARY SHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . .127
B
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
BELT DRIVE SYSTEM TENSIONING . . . . . . .88
BLOCK HEATER FOR FRONT (WATER
PUMP) LOCATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .40
C
CAMSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
CAMSHAFT BUSHING REPLACEMENT . . .145
CAMSHAFT CORE PLUG
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .243
CAMSHAFT IDLER GEAR
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .244
CAMSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . .168
CAMSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . .242
CAMSHAFT LOBE LIFT CHECK . . . . . . . . . .66
CAMSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128
CAMSHAFT REPLACEMENT (ENGINE
IN CHASSIS) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .288
CAMSHAFT TIMING AND LOBE
LIFT CHECKS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
CAMSHAFT TIMING CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . .66
CENTRI-MAX OIL FILTER
BREATHER VENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .47
CHANGES FROM THE EXISTING E-TECH
SERVICE PROCEDURES MANUAL . . . . . .6
Page 344
CHASSIS-MOUNTED CHARGE AIR

COOLING TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CLEANING AND INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . 136
CMCAC PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 68
CMCAC PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE . . . . 70
CMCAC TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . 67
CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON
BENCH PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
CONNECTING ROD INSPECTION AND
RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 173
COOLANT CONDITIONER ELEMENT
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108
COOLANT CONDITIONER
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 278
COOLANT CONDITIONER
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94
COOLANT MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . . 274
COOLANT MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 111
COOLING SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 307
COOLING SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 215
COOLING SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . 334
CORE INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70
CRANKCASE BREATHER FILTER
CLEANING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90
CRANKSHAFT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 40
CRANKSHAFT AND FLYWHEEL BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
CRANKSHAFT DOWEL PIN
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 162
CRANKSHAFT FRONT SEAL
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 248
CRANKSHAFT GEAR REPLACEMENT . . . . 163
CRANKSHAFT HUB INSTALLATION . . . . . . 249
CRANKSHAFT INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . 161
CRANKSHAFT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 222
CRANKSHAFT REAR OIL SEAL
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238
CRANKSHAFT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 134
CRANKSHAFT WEAR RING
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 164
CUP PLUG REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . 142
CYLINDER BLOCK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37
CYLINDER BLOCK COOLANT PASSAGE
LEAK CHECK OUT OF CHASSIS . . . . 76
CYLINDER BLOCK DOWEL PIN
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 159
CYLINDER BLOCK RECONDITIONING . . . 134
CYLINDER BLOCK/CYLINDER HEAD
COOLANT PASSAGES LEAK
CHECK IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72
INDEX
CYLINDER HEAD . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
CYLINDER HEAD AND CYLINDER BLOCK
LEAK TEST PROCEDURE . . . . . . . . . . . .71
CYLINDER HEAD AND HEAD GASKET
CHECK IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .71
CYLINDER HEAD ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .122
CYLINDER HEAD COOLANT PASSAGE
LEAK CHECK OUT OF CHASSIS . . . .75
CYLINDER HEAD CUP PLUG
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199
CYLINDER HEAD FUEL PASSAGES LEAK
CHECK IN CHASSIS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .72
CYLINDER HEAD GASKET . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
CYLINDER HEAD INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . .185
CYLINDER HEAD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . .252
CYLINDER HEAD OIL PASSAGE LEAK
CHECK OUT OF CHASSIS . . . . . . . . .74
CYLINDER HEAD OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . .181
CYLINDER HEAD PIPE PLUG
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .200
CYLINDER SLEEVE COUNTERBORE . . . . .137
CYLINDER SLEEVE INSTALLATION . . . . . .152
CYLINDER SLEEVE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . .135
E
ELECTRICAL TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . .79
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP (EUP)
CALIBRATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .305
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .116
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .268
ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMPS . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14
ENGINE BRAKE CONTROL VALVE
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .293
ENGINE BRAKE TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .78
ENGINE DISASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99
ENGINE ECU INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . .280
ENGINE ECU/COOLING PLATE
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .266
ENGINE ELECTRONIC CONTROL
UNIT (EECU) AND COOLING PLATE
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .115
ENGINE ELECTRONIC CONTROL
UNIT (EECU) REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . .105
ENGINE FINAL PREPARATION AND

OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . 306
ENGINE INFORMATION PLATE . . . . . . . . . . 10
ENGINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
ENGINE INSTALLATION INTO
VEHICLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 284
ENGINE LUBRICATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . 306
ENGINE MODEL IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . 10
ENGINE OPERATIONAL CHECK . . . . . . . . 307
ENGINE REASSEMBLY . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 222
ENGINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96
ENGINE SERIAL NUMBER
IDENTIFICATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 12
ENGINE SETUP AND ADJUSTMENTS . . . . 297
ENGINE SPEED AND POSITION SENSORS
INSTALLATION AND ADJUSTMENT . . . 304
ENGINE SYMPTOM DIAGNOSIS . . . . . . . . . 58
ENGINE SYSTEM SCHEMATICS
(FLUIDS FLOW) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 334
ENGINE WIRING HARNESS
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269
ENGINE WIRING HARNESS REMOVAL . . . 115
E-TECH COMPONENT TORQUE
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 319
E-TECH ENGINE DESIGN FEATURES . . . 14
E-TECH ENGINE LUBRICANT AND
SEALANT SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . 329
E-TECH ENGINE MECHANICAL
SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 310
E-TECH ENGINE SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . 338
EXHAUST MANIFOLD INSTALLATION . . . . 255
EXHAUST MANIFOLD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 114
EXPLANATION OF NUMERICAL CODE . . . . . 5
F
FASTENER SELECTION AND
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
FASTENER SIZES AND TYPES . . . . . . . . . . 331
FASTENER TORQUE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 330
FILTER ELEMENT INSTALLATION . . . . . . . 306
FILTER ELEMENT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . 99
FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . 89
FINAL TEST . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 82
FIRE RING GROOVE CUTTING . . . . . . . . . 185
FLYWHEEL HOUSING INSTALLATION . . . . 234
FLYWHEEL HOUSING REMOVAL . . . . . . . . 132
FLYWHEEL INSPECTION AND
RESURFACING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 167
FLYWHEEL INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . 240
FLYWHEEL REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 131
FRONT COVER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46
Page 345
INDEX
FRONT COVER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . .247
FRONT COVER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . .126
FUEL FILTER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .278
FUEL FILTER ADAPTER ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .107
FUEL FILTER REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . .93
FUEL FILTRATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . .34
FUEL INJECTION TIMING . . . . . . . . . . . . . .297
FUEL INJECTOR ASSEMBLIES . . . . . . . . . . .36
FUEL INJECTOR NOZZLE CLEANING . . . .221
FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .269
FUEL NOZZLE INLET TUBE ASSEMBLY
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .113
FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .307
FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .219
FUEL SYSTEM FLOW DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . .336
G
GEAR TRAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .44
GENERAL INFORMATION . . . . . . . .67, 89, 161
GENERAL
INSTRUCTIONS . . . . .96, 99, 222, 284, 308
GLOSSARY OF TERMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55
H
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL INJECTION
LINES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .36
HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . .35
H-RING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143
HYDRAULIC/MECHANICAL
TROUBLESHOOTING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .80
I
IN-CHASSIS PART/COMPONENT
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .286
INJECTION NOZZLE HOLDER INSERT
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .197
INLET AND EXHAUST VALVE
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .181
INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
INSTALLATION OF ELECTRONIC UNIT PUMP
PLUNGER SPRING AND SEAT . . . . . . .219
J
J-TECH ENGINE BRAKE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24
Page 346
L
LOW-PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . 32
LUBRICATION SYSTEM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 47
LUBRICATION SYSTEM BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
LUBRICATION SYSTEM FLOW
DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 335
M
MAIN BEARING CAP INSTALLATION . . . . . 224
MAIN BEARING CAP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . 133
MANUALLY TENSIONED SYSTEM . . . . . . . . 88
MATERIAL AND DIMENSIONAL DATA . . . . 311
MOUNTING ENGINE IN STAND . . . . . . . . . 103
N
NOZZLE HOLDER ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257
NOZZLE HOLDER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . 121
O
OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING
BRACKET ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . 101
OIL COOLER AND OIL FILTER MOUNTING
BRACKET INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . 272
OIL COOLER ASSEMBLY
RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 211
OIL COOLER RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . 215
OIL COOLER-TO-WATER PUMP INLET
LINE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280
OIL COOLER-TO-WATER PUMP INLET
LINE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 109
OIL FILL TUBE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 265
OIL FILL TUBE REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 116
OIL FILTER ELEMENT REPLACEMENT . . . . 90
OIL PAN INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 250
OIL PAN REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
OIL PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246
OIL PUMP RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . . . . . 211
OIL PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 125
OPERATIONAL TESTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 78
P
PERFORMANCE SPECIFICATIONS . . . . . . 310
PIPE PLUG REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . 143
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
ASSEMBLY REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 129
PISTON AND CONNECTING ROD
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230
INDEX
PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157
PISTON COOLING SPRAY NOZZLE
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134
PISTON INSPECTION AND CLEANING . . . .176
PISTON RING REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . .177
MOUNTING BRACKET ASSEMBLY
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .282
POWER STEERING PUMP . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .45
PUSH ROD INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . .259
R
REBUILT ENGINE RUN-IN
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308
REMOVAL FROM VEHICLE . . . . . . . . . . . . . .96
REMOVING ENGINE FROM ENGINE
STAND . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .281
RESTRICTION PRESSURE TEST . . . . . . . . .69
ROCKER ARM AND ENGINE BRAKE
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .261
ROCKER ARM, VALVE YOKE AND PUSH
ROD REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .119
ROCKER ARMS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .206
RUN-IN CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .308
S
SAFETY INFORMATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
SERVICE PROCEDURES AND TOOL
USAGE . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3
SPECIAL TOOL REQUIRED . . . . . . . . . . . . . .67
SPECIAL TOOLS FOR ENGINE
OVERHAUL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .338
SPECIAL TOOLS REQUIRED . . . . . . .134, 181
SPECIFICATION FOOTNOTES . . . . . . . . . .328
T
THERMOSTAT REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . .110
THERMOSTAT, HOUSING AND SEAL
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .276
TROUBLESHOOTING GUIDE . . . . . . . . . . . .83
TURBOCHARGER . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .306
TURBOCHARGER INSTALLATION . . . . . . .270
TURBOCHARGER REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . .113
V
VALVE COVER AND SPACER
INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264
VALVE COVER AND SPACER
REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 118
VALVE GUIDE REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . 188
VALVE LIFTER H-RING INSTALLATION
CHECK . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 295
VALVE LIFTER INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 242
VALVE REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT BENCH
PROCEDURES . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 206
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT DISASSEMBLY
(WITHOUT/WITH ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . 206
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT REASSEMBLY
(WITH J-TECH ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . 209
VALVE ROCKER ARM SHAFT REASSEMBLY
(WITHOUT ENGINE BRAKE) . . . . . . . . . 207
VALVE SEAT INSERT REPLACEMENT . . . 191
VALVE SPRING INSPECTION . . . . . . . . . . . 196
VALVE TRAIN . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
VALVE YOKE, VALVE LASH AND ENGINE
BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 297
VALVE YOKE GUIDE PIN
REPLACEMENT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 198
VALVE YOKE INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . . 260
VIBRATION DAMPER AND CRANKSHAFT
HUB REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 123
VIBRATION DAMPER HUB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 45
VIBRATION DAMPER INSTALLATION . . . . 249
V-MAC III . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
V-MAC III DIAGNOSTICS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58
V-MAC III SPECIAL TOOLS . . . . . . . . . . . . . 341
W
WATER PUMP INSTALLATION . . . . . . . . . . 271
WATER PUMP RECONDITIONING . . . . . . . 218
WATER PUMP REMOVAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 112
Page 347
NOTES
Page 348
E-TECH ENGINE
SERVICE MANUAL
PRINTED IN U.S.A.
5-106

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E-TECH ENGINE

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ERRATA SHEET ENGINE

Crankshaft Center Main Bearing

MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2006

(Also applies to Mack Trucks Australia)

MISCELLANEOUS FASTENER CHANGES E-TECH ENGINES

MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2002

MAY 2006 REPRINTED 2.5M

MACK TRUCKS, INC. 2000

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5_106_00.bk Page 1 Friday, August 4, 2000 11:17 AM

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Activities associated with Danger indicate that death or serious personal

A procedure, practice, or condition that is essential to emphasize.

5_106_00.bk Page 3 Friday, August 4, 2000 11:17 AM

5_106_00.bk Page 4 Friday, August 4, 2000 11:17 AM

Use hoists or jacks to lift or move heavy

NEVER run engine indoors unless exhaust

Be aware of hot surfaces. Allow engine to

The following list of general shop safety practices

Keep work area clean and orderly. Clean up

Only use tools that are in good condition,

Perform all service work on a flat, level

DO NOT wear loose-fitting or torn clothing.

ALWAYS wear safety glasses and protective

Do not store natural gas powered vehicles

Never smoke around a natural gas powered

5_106_00.bk Page 5 Friday, August 4, 2000 11:17 AM

GROUP 400 STEERING, AXLES, WHEELS

The organization of MACK service manuals has

GROUP 500 BRAKES, AUXILIARY

The system is based on a numerical code, the

GROUP 600 CAB, TRUCK BODY