Service & Technik

Information for the sewing industry

Determining your
sewing thread
requirements
Determining thread demand
Determining the thread demand is very important and The illustrated results in the thread demand per stitch type
should not be roughly estimated. The better you calculate table were arrived at by finishing, undoing and measuring
the thread demand, the more you can avoid keeping too sample seams under the above-mentioned AMANN
much stock on hand. In this way determining the exact sewing technique conditions.
calculation of thread demand can directly influence a
decrease in costs.

An effective system to calculate this thread demand can

The influence of stitch density
The stitch density has a great influence on thread demand,
vary according to the:
in particular in stitch types with cross-directional threads
product group (zigzag, blanket stitching, and cover stitching). An increase
of stitch density from 4 to 6 stitches/cm with the lockstitch
product design (stitch type 301) leads, for example, to an increased
thread demand of about 15%. With the 2 needle covering
process of product
chainstitch (stitch type 602) thread demand rises with the
batch size same increase of stitch density to 35%. This must be taken
into consideration during calculation in order to make
the organisation within the company
sure to avoid having not enough stock on hand with the
resulting costly subsequent deliveries.
and many other factors require different calculation
instruments and processes. In order to offer the suitable AMANN has researched the influence of stitch densities
solution for each and every garment manufacturer, on the most important stitch types. The results can be
AMANN has developed various calculation aids in the requested at your convenience in AMANN Technical
last few years – in close cooperation with the garment Sewing Service.
industry. This brochure offers an overview of the available
calculation methods and affords a detailed requirements
table for the most important stitch types – a reference
The influence of stitch density on thread demand for
guide for each thread calculation.
stitch type 301 and 401
The basis of each thread demand calculation is the
determination of the stitch type and the sewing parameter. Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
With this result we can determine the thread demand by
multiplying the seam length with the given thread demand 7
value. It is a good idea to subdivide into needle, bobbin
and, when needed, cover thread categories, in order to
allow for the various layouts of the individual thread 6 h)
s titc
systems in the disposition. ch ain
le
ub
5 1 (do
0
e4
typ
tch
sti
Factors of influence on the thread demand 4
The thread demand is dependant on numerous factors.
The thread demand data in the overview tables in this titch)
le locks
brochure (p. 4 – 8) are based on these parameters used doub
3
y p e 301 (
t
in practice: stitch

Stitch depth : 4 stitches /cm 2

Fabric weight : 1,0 mm

(at two layers of fabric) 1

Seam width : see table data

Seam length : 1 metre 2 3 4 5 6 7

Stitch density (stitches / cm)

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The influence of fabric weight The influence of tension on stitches
A change in fabric weight also has a great effect on the The thread tension will alter the thread demand value
thread demand where, besides a change in overall thread according to setting. This can change the ratio between
demand, the ratio between needle and bobbin threads needle, bobbin and, if applicable, cover thread. It can
could shift. With exception of the double lockstitch – and also greatly influence the amount of the overall thread
presuming an ideal distribution – all stitch types whose demand. In practice, great fluctuations in the ratio between
chains lie not within but outside the fabric, increase their the threads as well as in the overall thread demand have
percentage of needle and bobbin threads with increasing been noticed especially in stitch types 500 and 600. This
fabric weight. With the double chainstitch only the needle may also be due to the fact that in practice an ideal
thread demand increases with increasing fabric weight, distribution of threads does not always prevail.
whereas the bobbin thread demand remains constant.
This is to be allowed for should the parameters thread
tension, stitch density, fabric weight or seam widths in the
The influence of fabric weight on thread demand using calculation not match the data in this brochure. Missing
the stitch type 401 (double chainstitch) as an example demand values for seams that have been developed
under other sewing parameters should be determined by
practical research methods, this means by undoing stitches
Thread demand in m (per 1 m of seam)
and measuring them.
8
The thread demand values in the tables are net values,
meaning that the thread demand relates exclusively to a
7
and one meter long sewn seam. The thread demand for
em
add
al thre starting and ending a seam, changing threads, em-
6 Tot
broidering, chain stitching, etc. has not been allowed for.

5
In order to establish a sufficient thread demand calculation,
and
em a thread allowance must be added to the net calculation
eadd
hr
4 ic t result. Through our experience this allowance to be added
Bas

Bobbin thread demand

must lie between 15 and 25 % of the end net calculation.
3 This allowance takes fluctuations resulting from the
respective degree of size and other influences of production
2 and methods into consideration.

1 2 3 4 5 6
Fabric weight (in millimetres)

Developing thread demand

All-inclusive calculation Individual calculation

1. Using values arrived at in practice 1. Without aid

as a basis
2. Using the module system of the
2. Using a model catalogue as a guide, AMANN Sewing Thread Inventory
for example the AMANN Sewing Planner
Thread Inventory Planner
3. With software support
(AMANN NBE program)

3
AMANN sewing thread requirement tables
Stitch Type Seam Construction Seam Appearance Seam Stitches Thread %
ISO 4915 Top Bottom Width Required
DIN 61400 mm (per cm) per 1m of seam

NF

Single-thread
101 – 2 NF: 3,80 m 100 %
chainstitch

NF
Single-thread
103 – 2 NF: 4,50 m 100 %
blindstitch

NF
Single-thread
105 – 2 NF: 4,50 m 100 %
blindstitch

NF
Lockstitch
(Hand stitch 209 – 4 NF: 1,40 m 100 %
type)

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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 Stitch Type Seam Construction Seam Appearance Seam Stitches Thread %
ISO 4915 Top Bottom Width Required
DIN 61400 mm (per cm) per 1m of seam

NF
NF: 1,40 m 50 %
Double GF: 1,40 m 50 %
301 – 4
lockstitch
GF
2,80 m 100 %

NF
Double NF: 2,70 m 50 %
lockstitch GF: 2,70 m 50 %
304 GF 5 4
Zigzag 5,40 m 100 %

Double NF NF: 6,50 m 50 %

lockstitch GF: 6,50 m 50 %
Multi-stitch 321 8 18
Zigzag 13,00 m 100 %
GF

NF NF: 1,70 m 35 %
Double GF: 3,10 m 65 %
401 – 4
chainstitch
GF 4,80 m 100 %

Double
NF NF: 2,40 m 35 %
chainstitch 404 3 4 GF: 4,40 m 65 %
Zigzag
GF 6,80 m 100 %

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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 Stitch Type Seam Construction Seam Appearance Seam Stitches Thread %
ISO 4915 Top Bottom Width Required
DIN 61400 mm (per cm) per 1m of seam

Two-needle NF NF: 3,40 m 29 %

double chain- NF GF: 8,40 m 71 %
406 5 4
stitch
with common looper 11,80 m 100 %
GF

NF
NF
Three-needle NF NF: 5,10 m 30 %
double chain- GF: 11,60 m 70 %
407 6 4
stitch
GF 16,70 m 100 %
with common looper

LF
Two-times NF NF: 3,40 m 22 %
double NF GF: 6,20 m 40 %
chainstitch 408 6 4 LF: 5,80 m 38 %
GF
with cover thread
GF
15,40 m 100 %

NF
Single-thread
501 7 4 NF: 16,40 m 100 %
overedge stitch

Two-thread NF NF: 1,70 m 15 %

overedge stitch GF: 10,00 m 85 %
502 GF
5 4
Interlaced at
needle hole 11,70 m 100 %

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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 Stitch Type Seam Construction Seam Appearance Seam Stitches Thread %
ISO 4915 Top Bottom Width Required
DIN 61400 mm (per cm) per 1m of seam

Two-thread NF NF: 6,70 m 57 %

overedge
503 5 4 GF: 5,00 m 43 %
stitch
GF
Interlaced on edge 11,70 m 100 %

Three-thread NF NF: 1,70 m 12 %

overedge
504 5 4 GF: 12,10 m 88 %
stitch GF
Interlaced at GF 13,80 m 100 %
needle hole

Three-thread NF NF: 6,30 m 46 %

overedge GF: 7,50 m 54 %
505 GF 5 4
stitch
Interlaced on edge GF
13,80 m 100 %

Four-thread NF
NF: 3,40 m 21 %
overedge NF
512 GF 6 4 GF: 12,90 m 79 %
stitch (Mock safety GF
stitch) Interlaced at 16,30 m 100 %
needle hole

Four-thread NF
NF: 3,40 m 20 %
overedge NF

stitch 514 GF 6 4 GF: 13,70 m 80 %

GF
Interlaced at
17,10 m 100 %
needle hole

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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 Stitch Type Seam Construction Seam Appearance Seam Stitches Thread %
ISO 4915 Top Bottom Width Required
DIN 61400 mm (per cm) per 1m of seam

LF
Two-needle NF: 3,40 m 20 %
NF
covering NF
GF: 8,40 m 50 %
602 6 4 LF: 5,10 m 30 %
chain-stitch
with cover thread
GF 16,90 m 100 %

LF
NF: 5,10 m 23 %
Three-needle NF
NF GF: 11,60 m 52 %
covering
605 NF 6 4 LF: 5,80 m 25 %
chain-stitch
with cover thread
GF
22,50 m 100 %

LF
NF NF: 6,80 m 25 %
Four-needle NF
covering NF GF: 14,80 m 54 %
NF
607 6 4 LF: 5,80 m 21 %
chain-stitch
with cover thread
GF 27,40 m 100 %

Seam Stitch Type Seam Appearance Type No. of Thread %

Operation ISO 4915 mm Stitches Required
NF
DIN 61400 per unit

Circular tack
Single-thread
107 2 7 NF: 0,07 m 100 %
chainstitch
Zigzag

Bartack NF: 0,30 m 60 %

Double lockstitch 304 12 42 GF: 0,20 m 40 %
Zigzag
0,50 m 100 %

NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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 Seam ISO 4915 Seam Appearance Type No. of Thread %
Operation DIN 61400 mm Stitches Required
per unit

Lingerie
buttonhole
Single-thread 107 16 90 NF: 0,50 m 100 %
chainstitch
Zigzag

Lingerie NF: 0,10 m 10 %

buttonhole GF: 0,85 m 90 %
Double lockstitch
304 18 160
Zigzag 0,95 m 100 %

Eyelet NF: 0,80 m 80 %

buttonhole
without bartack 404 30 96 GF: 0,20 m 20 %
Double chainstitch
Zigzag 1,00 m 100 %

Sewing on
button Lingerie 2-hole 7 NF: 0,20 m 100 %
Single-thread 107
chainstitch without 4-hole 14 NF: 0,40 m 100 %
button shank

Sewing on
button
Outerwear 107 4-hole 21 NF: 0,60 m 100 %
Single-thread
chainstitch with
button shank

NF: 0,10 m 65 %
Sewing on GF: 0,05 m 35 %
2-hole 6
button 0,15 m 100 %
Double lockstitch 304
Zigzag 4-hole 12 NF: 0,20 m 65 %
GF: 0,10 m 35 %
0,30 m 100 %
NF = Needle thread · GF = Bobbin / looper thread · LF = Cover thread Remember to allow extra thread for beginning and end of seam

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Empirical data for roughly calculating the amount of thread required
The table below is intended as a guide. The thread consumption figures it contains are based on fashionable and
qualitative characteristics of the individual garments listed. This means that standard thread amounts indicated are not
arithmetical mean values derived from the maximum and minimum values shown in the Range of Variations column.
They already include allowances for the beginning and end of seams as well as colour changes.

Men’s and Standard

Amount
Range of
Variation
Distribution
Overlocking Seams Assembly and
Boys’ wear (m) (m) (m) Ornamental Seams (m)

Business suit trousers/

corduroy jeans 300 250 – 350 170 130

Blue denim jeans 280 230 – 370 130 150

Sackcoat, blazer 190 170 – 240 45 145

Waistcoat 70 57 – 80 – 70

Winter coat 265 250 – 285 60 205

Poplin coat 265 250 – 285 40 225

Shorts 90 80 – 100 50 40

Smock 255 230 – 285 90 165

Work suit (two-piece) 375 345 – 400 185 190

Bib slacks 225 200 – 250 115 110

Anorak, blouson 210 170 – 250 40 170

Bathing/dressing gown 210 170 – 250 110 100

Tracksuit 200 170 – 250 120 80

Underwear Standard
Amount
Range of
Variation
Distribution
Overlocking Seams Assembly and
Lingerie (m) (m) (m) Ornamental Seams (m)

Men’s dress shirt (long-sleeved) 125 115 – 150 80 45

Men’s undershirt, T shirt 80 70 – 90 65 15

Ladie’s panties, Men’s briefs 100 80 – 100 80 20

Panty girdle 100 80 – 120 80 20

Bra 55 40 – 80 20 35

Pyjama 200 170 – 200 120 80

Night gown 150 130 – 190 100 50

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 Standard Range of Distribution
Ladies’ wear Amount
(m)
Variation
(m)
Overlocking Seams Assembly and
(m) Ornamental Seams (m)

Dress (unlined) 150 125 – 180 90 60

Dress (lined) 195 160 – 255 100 95

Skirt (unlined) 110 90 – 140 75 35

Skirt (lined) 170 150 – 200 125 45

Jacket 200 170 – 260 60 140

Costume (two-piece) 400 310 – 490 135 265

Slacks 200 180 – 240 150 50

Poplin coat 285 250 – 370 45 240

Winter coat 285 250 – 370 45 240

Smock 225 170 – 280 75 150

Blouse 120 100 – 150 55 65

Bathing suit 120 100 – 140 70 50

Pyjama suit 200 170 – 250 100 100

Standard Range of Distribution

Shoes Amount
(m)
Variation
(m)
Overlocking Seams Assembly and
(m) Ornamental Seams (m)

Men’s shoes (elegant) 21 17 – 28 – 21

Men’s shoes (casual) 26 23 – 30 – 26

Men’s boots 33 28 – 40 – 33

Ladies’ shoes (elegant) 26 23 – 30 – 26

Ladies’ shoes (casual) 26 23 – 30 – 26

Ladies’ boots 33 25 – 45 – 33

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Determining thread demand with the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner
The Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is an especially Determining the thread demand by
effective way to arrive at a calculation. For the most
important product groups in Men’s and Boys’ wear and using the module method
Ladies’ wear the thread demand values can be quickly Using the elemental models for all important product
and easily taken from a folder without much effort. The groups and default modules as a guide, individual models
Sewing Thread Inventory Planner is built on a basis of can be put together and calculated.
illustrations of models and model elements and their The elemental model contains the
respective thread demand values. There are two seam positions that are required
different ways to use this process for your calculation : for the finishing of the respective
garment piece. This means details
specific to the model like pockets
Determining the thread demand by or seam finishes of trousers etc.,
using the model illustrations are not calculated because these
With the aid of could be designed in every possible
variation. In the elemental model
the illustration the customary process types used
the description of different customary processes in practice are given under the
the illustration heading “Variations”.
The variations that are the basis
detailed additional information of the calculation define the types
of seams and the stitch types used
for them and the finishing processes for the most important
the respective model presented in a product group is
seam positions.
clearly described. When the model in the Sewing Thread
Inventory Planner matches the garment to be calculated
In the category “Modules” functional and decorative
then the user can record the respective thread demand
model elements are presented to be used by the garment
at a glance and adopt the value into his calculation. This
manufacturer to create a basis
is the simplest and fastest method to determine the thread
model.
amount in a garment.
Belonging to this, amongst
others, is a multitude of
differentiating pocket solu-
tions, quilting and collar
designs. By adding the
specified thread demand
values for the building blocks
and the respective basis model
the sum for the total model
can be calculated.

A Sewing Thread Inventory

Plan-ner solely for the Ladies’
wear and Men’s and Boys’
wear is available. The following product groups can be
found in the folder:

Ladies’ wear
According to product group, up to 5 different model Blazers, blouses, trousers, jeans, polo shirts, skirts, T-shirts
variations are presented, meaning a large diversity of
variations creating excellent preconditions for the calculation Men’s and Boys’ wear
Suit Jackets, vests, trousers, shirts, denim shirts, jeans,
process. For some models there are up to 3 customary polo shirts, T-shirts
processes calculated that are used in practice – also in
read
this regard the chances are great that “his” model may w i n g T hlanner
Se t ory P an d
n en ’s ish :
be found in the Sewing Thread Inventory Planner. Inve ear / M r engl
es’ w an o
Ladi r, germ
w ea

39,–
Euro
ys ’
Bo

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Determining thread demand with the NBE program
The NBE program is a professional software solution to To guarantee an optimal calculation, the NBE program
support the calculation of thread demand. The NBE fulfils the following requirements:
program can, considering all the important parameters
Networking capability
that influence thread demand, create one exact thread
demand calculation per sewing operation. You just have Based on well-known software
to enter the required seam positions that are to be (Microsoft Access 2000)
calculated and the respective parameters. The calculation
and exact evaluation is taken care of by the NBE program. Designed for user-friendliness
The result is a detailed work plan and thread demand Simple, clearly organized system
overview giving the required consumption for the thread
article to be used and can be applied as a work basis Visual presentation (models, stitch types)
directly out of the disposition.
International usability
(Language choice German and English)

The NBE program was developed in close association Flexibility (product diversity, individual
with the garment industry, therefore distinguishing itself user’s needs)
from other programs for its practice-oriented and user-
friendly principle. The advantages of determining thread It is possible to integrate the NBE program into existing
demand by using a computer program shows in the PDM solutions. Examples are available. Individual –
flexible usability of the great amount of data calculated according to existing software in the company – clarification
by entering the various models and modules. With the of the integration or linkage should be possible. The
NBE program a complicated and quick alteration of AMANN Technical Sewing Service is happy to be of
models is made possible, as well as the simple putting assistance.
together of new models by adding modules and base
models. This type of calculation is particularly efficient The NBE program is available in the German and English
and precise at the same time. language. The CD-ROM comes with a detailed manual.

ram
B E pro g ng lish :
N or e
an
g erm
95,–
Eu ro

13
More brochures

AMANN product range

Application recommendations for AMANN sewing threads and
ACKERMANN embroidery threads 100011

Sewing of ultra-lightweight fabrics 100015

Determining your sewing thread requirements 100023

Sewing on buttons securely 100029

AMANN sewing threads for shoes

and leather goods 100034

Sewing knitted fabrics

Guidelines for sewing of outerwear, underwear, lingerie, shirts,
blouses, swimwear and leisurewear 100041

The sewability of elastic fabric 100541

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An overview of AMANN thread products

An overview of ACKERMANN embroidery threads

Service
We can advise you in all your questions
about sewing and processing technology.
Just give us a call.
Telephone + 49 (7143) 277-250

15
 DIN EN ISO 9001 : 2000
Zertifikat: 09 100 6148

Certificate No.: 01 104 000462

No. 93.0.4233

Amann & Söhne GmbH & Co. KG

Hauptstraße 1
D-74357 Bönnigheim
Telephone +49 (7143) 277-250
Telefax +49 (7143) 277-460
[email protected]
100023
www.amann.com GB0PDF034

All facts and figures are intended exclusively for your information.
All recommendations presuppose adjustment of the sewing conditions to the appropriate sewing yarn.