RMUTP International Conference: Textiles & Fashion 2012

July 3-4, 2012, Bangkok Thailand

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Eco-Friendly of Textiles Dyeing and Printing with Natural Dyes

Nattadon Rungruangkitkrai
1,a*
,Rattanaphol Mongkholrattanasit
2,b


a
Department of Textile Science, Faculty of Agro-Industry, Kasetsart University, 50 Phaholyotin Road, Chatuchak,
Bangkok 10900, Thailand
b
Department of Textile Chemistry Technology, Faculty of Industrial Textiles and Fashion Design, Rajamangala
University of Technology Phra Nakhon, 517, Nakhonsawan Road,Kwang Suan Chitladda,Dusit District, Bangkok,
10300, Thailand
[email protected]
1
, [email protected]
2


Abstract : This article reports the studies available on the ultra violet (UV) protection property of natural dyes;
antibacterial and deodorizing properties of natural dyes; application of natural dyes for textile printing; effect of
different mordants and mordanting method; ultrasonic method of natural dyeing. Dyeing with natural dyes using
padding techniques; thermodynamics and kinetics of dyeing with natural dyes have also been discussed.

Keywords: natural dyes, dyeing, printing, textiles, mordant, eco-friendly

1. Introduction
Natural dyes are known for their use in colouring of food substrate, leather, wood as well
as natural fibers like wool, silk, cotton and flax as major areas of application since ancient times.
Natural dyes may have a wide range of shades, and can be obtained from various parts of plants
including roots, bark, leaves, flowers, and fruit [1]. Since the advent of widely available and
cheaper synthetic dyes in 1856 having moderate to excellent colour fastness properties, the use of
natural dyes having poor to moderate wash and light fastness has declined to a great extent.
However, recently there has been revival of the growing interest on the application of natural
dyes on natural fibers due to worldwide environmental consciousness [2]. Although this ancient
art of dyeing with natural dyeing with natural dyes withstood the ravages of time, a rapid decline
in natural dyeing continued due to the wide available of synthetic dyes at an economical price.
However, even after a century, the use of natural dyes never erodes completely and they are still
being used. Thus, natural dyeing of different textiles and leathers has been continued mainly in
the decentralized sector for specialty products along with the use of synthetic dyes in the large
scale sector for general textiles owing to the specific advantages and limitations of both natural
dyes and synthetic dyes.
The use of non-toxic and eco-friendly natural dyes on textiles has become a matter of
significant importance because of the increased environmental awareness in order to avoid some
hazardous synthetic dyes. However, worldwide the use of natural dyes for the colouration of
textiles has mainly been confined to craftsman, small scale dyers and printers as well as small
scale exporters and producers dealing with high valued eco-friendly textile production and sales
[2-4]. Recently, a number of commercial dyers and small textile export houses have started
looking at the possibilities of using natural dyes for regular basis dyeing and printing of textiles
to overcome environmental pollution caused by the synthetic dyes [5]. Natural dyes produce
very uncommon, soothing and soft shades as compared to synthetic dyes. On the other hand,
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synthetic dyes are widely available at an economical price and produce a wide variety of colours;
these dyes however produce skin allergy, toxic wastes and other harmfulness to human body.
There are a small number of companies that are known to produce natural dyes
commercially. For example, de la Robbia, which began in 1992 in Milan, produces water extracts
of natural dyes such as weld, chlorophyll, logwood, and cochineal under the Eco-Tex certifying
system, and supplies the textile industry. In USA, Allegro Natural Dyes produces natural dyes
under the Ecolour label for textile industry [6]. Aware of the Toxic Substance Act and the
Environmental Protection Agency, they claim to have developed a mordant using a non-toxic
aluminium formulation and biodegradable auxiliary substance. In Germany, Livos
Pflanzenchemie Forschungs and Entwicklungs GmbH marked numerous natural products. In
France, Bleu de Pastel sold an extract of woad leaves. Rubia Pigmenta Naturalia is The
Netherlands company, which manufactures and sells vegetable dyes. There are several small
textile companies using natural dyes. India is still a major producer of most natural dyed textiles
[4].
For successful commercial use of natural dyes, the appropriate and standardized dyeing
techniques need to be adopted without scarifying required quality of dyed textiles materials.
Therefore, to obtain newer shades with acceptable colour fastness behaviour and reproducible
colour yield, appropriate scientific techniques or producers need to be derived from scientific
studies on dyeing methods, dyeing process variable, dyeing kinetics and compatibility of
selective natural dyes. A need has also been felt to reinvestigate and rebuild the traditional
processes of natural dyeing to control each treatment and pre-dyeing process (preparation,
mordanting) and dyeing process variables for producing uncommon shades with balanced colour
fastness and eco-performing textiles.
Production of synthetic dyes is dependent on petrochemical source, and some of synthetic
dyes contain toxic or carcinogenic amines which are not eco-friendly [7]. Moreover, the global
consumption of textiles is estimated at around 30 million tonnes, which is expected to grow at the
rate of 3% per annum. The colouration of this huge quantity of textiles needs around 700,000
tonnes of dyes which causes release of a vast amount of unused and unfixed synthetic colourants
into the environment [2].
In this article, we review the studies carried out so far on the application of natural dyes
on textiles to understand the science of natural dyeing as well as to focus the ultra-violet (UV)
protection properties, antibacterial and deodorizing properties, application of natural dyes for
textile printing.


2. Application of natural dyes on textile
2.1 Ultra-violet (UV) protection properties with natural dyes
Recently, consumers have become increasingly aware of the need for sun protection,
which is related to the incidence of sun-induced skin damage and its relationship with an
increased exposure to UV light. Ultraviolet radiation (UVR) can lead to acute and chronic
reactions and damage, such as acceleration of skin ageing [8]. An overdose of UV can cause
various skin, eye, and even DNA damage [9]. The UVR band consists of three regions: the UV-A
band (320400 nm), the UV-B band (290320 nm), and the UV-C band (200290 nm) [10]. The
highest energy region, the UV-C band, is absorbed completely by oxygen and ozone in the upper
atmosphere. Of the total solar UV radiation reaching the earths surface, 6% is in the UV-B
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region and 94% in the UV-A region [11]. UV-A causes little visible reaction on the skin but has
been shown to decrease the immunological response of skin cells. Among the three radiations,
UV-B is the most responsible for the development of skin cancers [12]. Therefore, the
transmittance of UVR, including UV-A and UV-B, through the fabrics was evaluated in research.
There are many factors involved in the development of skin cancers and cumulative UV exposure of a
patient is an important variable. Besides avoiding the sun, the most frequently recommended form of UV
protection is the use of suitable clothes, hats, and sunscreens [13]. The protective properties of suitable clothes
depend on fibre composition (natural or synthetic fibres), fabric construction (porosity, weight, and thickness),
and the wet processing history of the fabric (using dyes, UV absorbers, and other finishing chemicals) [12-14]
From extensive literature surveying, it can be observed that there are some recent reports for
application of natural dyes on UV protective textile materials. Sarkar [12] evaluated of UV
protection for different structures of cotton fabrics (plain, twill and sateen weave) dyed with
madder, cochineal and indigo at different conditions and reported that dyeing of cotton fabrics
with natural colourants increases the ultraviolet protective abilities of the fabrics and can be
considered as an effective protection against ultraviolet rays. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor
(UPF) is further enhanced with colourant of dark hues and with high concentration of the
colourant in the fabric. Kim [9] studied the dyeing characteristics and UV protection property of
green tea dyed on cotton fabric by using chitosan mordanting condition. The results show that
chitosan mordanting can effectively increase the UV protection property of both UV-A and UV-
B of green tea dyed cotton fabrics. Chitosan mordanted undyed cotton and chitosan unmordanted
dyed cotton did not show an increase in UV protection property. Feng et al. [10] reported the
ultraviolet protective properties of the cotton and silk fabrics dyed by Rheum and Lithospermum
erythrorhizon. Experiment results revealed that the fabrics dyed with natural dyes had good
ultraviolet protective properties. They could absorb about 80% of the ultraviolet rays. Wang et al.
[14] researched the dyeing and ultraviolet protection of silk fabric using vegetable dyes extracted
from Flos Sophorae. It was found that the aqueous solution of this vegetable dye has excellent
thermal stability in acid conditions. The optimum extraction conditions were obtained for Flos
Sophorae: extraction temperature of 100C, extraction time of 60 min, and material, and material
to liquor ratio of 1:10. The UPF and T (UVA)
AV
values for the silk fabric dyed by the optimum
dye solution were found to meet the Chinese Standard (UPF = 69 > 30, T (UVA)
AV
= 1.07% <
5%). According to the standard, the silk fabric can claim to be a UV-Productive product.
Grifoni et al. [15] studied the UV protection properties of flax and hemp fabrics dyed with weld,
dyers woad, logwood lipstick tree, madder, brasil wood, and cochineal as natural dyes.
Experiment results revealed that natural dyes could confer good UV protection. Weld-dyed fabric
gave the highest protection level. Mongkholrattanasit et al. [16] reported the UV protection
properties of silk fabric dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract. Experiment results observed that with
an increase in the dye concentration.





2.2 Antibacterial and deodorizing properties of natural dyes

Textile materials and garment are susceptible to microbial attack, as these provide large
surface area and absorb moisture required for microbial growth [17]. Natural fibres have protein
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(keratin) and cellulose, etc., which provide basic requirements such as moisture, oxygen, nutrients and
temperature for bacterial growth and multiplication. This often results in objectionable odour
dermal infection, product deterioration allergic responses and often related diseases [18]. The
control of microorganisms (e.g. bacteria, mildews molds, yeasts and viruses) on textile fabrics
extends to diverse areas such as hospitals, the environment and everyday households [19].
Although known for a long time for dyeing as well as medicinal properties, the structures and protective
properties of natural dyes have been recognized only in the recent past. Many of the plants used for dye
extraction are classified as medicinal, and some of these have recently been shown to possess remarkable
antimicrobial activity [20]. A number of studies have indicated that plants synthesize aromatic
substances such as alkaloids, terpenoids, and phenolic compounds as their secondary metabolites
[21]. These compounds are antimicrobial and are produced by the plants in response to an attack
by a pathogen; therefore their function is that of defense mechanism for plants against
microorganisms. These compounds are of great importance as the substances have been
successful in protecting plants from bacterial attack since time immemorial, without causing the
bacteria to develop resistance to them [21].
The use of natural products and natural dyes for antimicrobial finishing of textile
materials has been widely reported. Han and Yang [22] studied the antimicrobial activity of wool
fabric dyed with curcumin and found that the antimicrobial ability of curcumin finished wool is
semidurable, more durable to home laundering than to light exposure. The inhibition rates against
Staphylococus aureus (S. aureus) and Escherichia coli (E. coli) were 45% and 30% respectively,
after 30 cycles of home laundering. The inhibition rate against S. aureus was almost 80% after 5-
AFU (AATCC Fading Unit) light exposure but started to decrease substantially after 10-AFU.
The E. coli inhibition against light was poor. After 5-AFU exposure, the fabric retained only 30%
of its original antimicrobial ability. Dahl et al. [23] also studied photokilling of bacteria by the
natural dye curcumin and revealed that Gram-negative bacteria displayed greater resistance to
curcumin phototoxicity relative to Gram-positive bacteria. Oxygen was required for curcumin
phototoxicity. The crude methanolic extracts of stem root, leaves, fruit, seeds of Artocarpus
heterophyllus [24] and their subsequent partitioning with petrol, dichloromethane, ethyl acetone
and butanol fractions exhibited a broad spectrum of antibacterial activity. The butanol fractions
of the root bark and fruit were found to be the most active. None of the fraction was active
against the fungi test. Mariegold [25] showed negative test against microbiological control for E.
coli and Salimonella. Singh et al. [20] tested acacia catechu, kerria lacca, quercus infectoria,
rubia cordifora, and rumex maritimus against pathogens like E. coli, Bacillus subtilis, Klebsiella
pneumoniae, Proteus vulgaris, and Pseudomonas aeruginosa. Minimum inhibitory concentration
was found to vary from 5 g to 40 g. Gupta et al. [26] studied antimicrobial property of eleven
natural dyes (acacia, indigo, lac, kamala, pomegranate, gall nuts, cutch, myrobolan, himalayan
rhubarb, Indian madder and golden dock) against three types of Gram-negative bacteria (E. coli,
Klebsiella pneumoniae and Proteus vulgaris. Seven out of the eleven natural dyes (lac, kamala,
pomegranate, gall nuts, cutch, myrobolan and himalayan rhubarb) showed activity against one or
more of the three bacteria studied. Kamala, pomegranate and gall nuts were found to be efficient
biocides after dyeing on cotton, particularly gall nuts. The latter was highly effective against E.
coli and Proteus vulgaris, reducing the number of colonies by 99%. The dyes examined exhibited
good wash fastness. Ke et al. [27] reported the colour evaluation and antibacterial property of
wool fabric dyed with root of Rhizoma coptidis (berberine). Results indicated that wool fabrics
dyed with mordant, or at higher temperature, or in alkaline solution processed deeper shades and
darker colour. And the wool fabric showed good antibacterial property after dyeing with R.
coptidis extracts. Chen and Chang [28] studied the antimicrobial activity of cotton fabric
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pretreated microwave plasma and dyed with onion skin and onion pulp extraction. The best
inhibition zone of anti S. aureus is found to be 1.1-0.8 cm by 10 min plasma-treated grafting time
of onion skin extraction and 0.7-0.5 cm by 30 min plasma-treated grafting time of onion pulp
extraction. The samples with 10 and 30 min plasma-treated grafting of both onion skin and onion
pulp show anti S. aureus ability even after 5 times test washing, but both the samples lost their
anti S. aureus property with 60 min grafting. The FTIR-ATR spectrum of dyed cotton fabric
shows flavonoids function peak at 1624 cm
-1
of onion skin that provide cotton fabric brown
colour with wash fastness rating 4. Perumal et al. [29] reported the antibacterial activity of
pigment from Sclerotinia sp. and its use in dyeing cotton. Dev et al. [30] studied the dyeing and
antimicrobial characteristics of chitosan treated wool fabrics with henna dye. The microbial
reduction percentage values for chitosan treated samples against both E. coli and S. aureus show
that the microbial reduction is better against both bacteria. The fabrics dyed with henna alone
without chitosan application do exhibit significant antimicrobial activity. The combined
antimicrobial effect of chitosan and natural dyes is very good and can be used to develop clothes
for protecting against common infection. Joshi et al. [31] also studied a comprehensive review on
natural product based bioactive agents such as chitosan, natural dyes, neem extract and other
herbal products for antimicrobial finishing of textile substrate.
There are only few reports [32-34] on the dyeing of natural fibers for the improvement of
deodorizing property with natural dyes. Hwang et al. [32] reported deodorizing property of
cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with gardenia, coffee sludge, Casia tora. L., and pomegranate
extracts. The deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with various natural colourants extracts
was in the range of 50-99%. The deodorizing performance increased in the order of gardenia <
Casia tora. L. < coffee sludge < pomegranate. Especially the deodorizing performance of all
fabrics dyed with pomegranate was found to be highest 99%. Lee [33] studied deodorizing
property of cotton, silk, and wool fabrics dyed with coffee sludge (Coffee Arabica L.) extract. It
was found that fabrics dyed with the Coffee Arabica L. extract showed good deodorization
performance. Lee et al. [34] also studied deodorizing and dyeing properties of cotton, silk, and
wool fabrics dyed with Amur Corktree, Dryopteris crassirhizoma, Chrysanthemum boreale,
Artemisia extracts. The results revealed that deodorizing performance of fabrics dyed with
various natural colourant extracts between 34% and 99%. It is worth nothing that the use of
natural colourant notably enhanced the deodorizing performance. Wool fabrics showed the
highest performance increase at 98-99%, followed by silk and cotton.

2.3 Application of natural dyes for textile printing

There are four reports [35-38] on the printing of textile materials with different natural
dyes. Rekaby et al. [35] studied the printing of natural fabrics (wool, silk, cotton and flax) with
natural dyes from alkanet and rhubarb by using pigment-printing technique. Results show that the
highest K/S value was obtained by using Meypro gum as a thickener. The K/S increases rapidly
as the concentration of the natural dye powder in the printing paste increases from 10 to 40 g/kg
printing paste. Moreover, results show that the printed goods, which were fixed via steaming,
have relatively higher colour strength than their corresponding samples fixed via
thermodynamics. The best results were obtained by using metal mordants at a concentration of 20
g/kg printing paste. The colour fastness results were ranging between very good and excellent.
Karolia and Buch [36] studied the resist printed natural dyed textile of Ajarkh. Hebeish et al. [37]
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evaluated the reactive cyclodextrin in cotton printing with Lawsonia Intermis Linn lythracease
(henna) as natural dye. Hakeim et al. [38] studied the pretreated cotton fabric by chitosan was
printed with natural colouring matter, curcumin. The colour yield of the prints increased by
increasing the molecular weight of chitosan. The stiffness results of the printed cotton fabric
pretreated with low molecular weight chitosan showed better performance. The rubbing fastness
of the prints was good.


2.4 Thermodynamics and kinetic of dyeing with natural dyes

It is felt essential to develop a knowledge base on dye chemistry and effects of dyeing
process variables as well as rate of dyeing and chemical kinetics of dyeing for different natural
dyes and fibers combinations to manipulate the processes of natural dyeing efficiently in order to
get maximum colour yield in economical way [2].
Das et al. [39] studied the diffusion coefficient, rate of dyeing and effect of variation in
salt and pH of wool and silk with annato (Bixa orellana). Wool dyed at 90C appears to have
more time of half dyeing (t ) than silk dyed at the same temperature, thereby indicating that the
wool has lower rate of dyeing as compared to silk. The diffusion coefficient of annato on silk
higher than on wool. The exhaustion of annato to wool and silk is found to be maximum at dye
bath pH ~ 4.5. The exhaustion of the dye increases with the increase in dye bath pH. For pre- and
post- salt application, the ability of the salt to incorporate colouring component present in annato
in the structure of wool and silk fiber follow a common trend: ferrous sulfate > aluminium sulfate
> magnesium sulfate, as dividend from the K/S values of the respective dyes substrate. Samanta
et al. [40] has studied the dyeing adsorption isotherm, heat of dyeing, free energy and entropy of
dyeing for jackfruit wood. Study with jackfruit wood revealed that this dyeing process follows a
Nernst adsorption isotherm, except jute-FeSO
4
-jackfruit combination of natural dyeing, where it
follows Langmuir adsorption isotherm. Farizadeh et al. [41] reported the extraction, identification
and sorption of dyes from madder on wool fabric. The results show that adsorption dependent on
the pH and temperature, and the adsorption isotherm of madder on wool is a Langmuir type. The
adsorption of madder on wool is an exothermic process. Gupta and Gulrajani [42] studied and
reported the kinetics and thermodynamics of dyeing with lawsone (2-hydroxy-1, 4-
naphthoquinone) on wool, hair, silk, tussah, nylon and polyester fibers. Diffusion coefficient of
silk and nylon showed the highest rate of dyeing followed by wool, tussah and hair fibers.
Polyester dyed at 130C had the slowest rate of dye uptake. The linear isotherm of dyeing for all
fibers conformed to the partition mechanism of dyeing corresponding to the solid-solution model
observed in dyeing hydrophobic fibers with disperse dyes. The standard affinity for all fibers
increased with increase in temperature. Kongkachuichay et al. [43] studied thermodynamics of
adsorption of laccaic acid on silk. The adsorption isotherm obtained was identified to be
Langmuir type. When the temperature increased, the partition ratio and standard affinity
decreased drastically. The values of heat of dyeing and entropy of dyeing were -13 kcal/mol and -
0.03 kcal/mol/K, respectively. Chairat et al. [44] also studied an adsorption and kinetic of lac
dyeing on silk and found that the experimental data fitted well to the Langmuir and Freundrich
isotherms with a high correlation coefficient (R
2
). The pseudo second-order kinetic model was
indicated with the activation energy of 47.5 kJ/mol. The values of the enthalpy (H) and entropy
of activation (S) were 44.7 kJ/mol and -175.7 J/mol K, respectively. The free energy of
activation (G) at 30C was 97.9 kJ/mol. Chairat et al. [45] reported adsorption and kinetic of lac
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dyeing on cotton under dyeing conditions of pH 3.0, liquor ration 1:100 and an initial dye
concentration 480 10 mg/L. It was found that the adsorption kinetics of lac dyeing on cotton
with pH control was found to follow the pseudo second-order kinetic model with an activation
energy of 42.4 kJ/mol. Dyeing properties of silk fabric with berberine in terms of the
thermodynamic and kinetic factors, including standard affinity, enthalpy change, entropy change,
dyeing rate, diffusion coefficient and activation energy of diffusion, as reported by Ke et al. [27].
The results show that the adsorption isotherm of berberine on silk fabric belongs to Langmuir
type. The analysis of dyeing thermodynamics shows that the adsorption of berberine on silk
fabric is an exothermic process. When the fabric is dyed at higher temperature, the lower affinity
and less dye uptake are obtained; however, the higher temperature increases the initial dyeing rate
and diffusion coefficient. Vinod et. al. [46] studied and reported the kinetic and adsorption of
dyeing with natural colourant from the bark of Macaranga peltala for silk yarn. The adsorption
studies of Macaranga peltala for silk yarn revealed that the process fits well with the Langmuir
isotherm model. The experiment results found that the adsorption was exothermic and
spontaneous in nature, and exhibited first-order kinetics. The rate of adsorption increases as the
disrupting effect of the added electrolyte cation increases and follows the order: Al
3+
> Ca
2+
>
Na
+
. Aydin et al. [47] investigated of the adsorption isotherm used for wool dyeing by aqueous
extraction of Cehri fruit (Fructus Rhamni Petiolari) and reported that the adsorption isotherm can
identified to be Nernst type. Septhum et al. [48] studied an adsorption of alum-morin dyeing
onto silk yarn and revealed that the pseudo second-order kinetic model was indicated for alum-
morin dyeing (simultaneous mordanting) of silk at pH 4.0 with ac activation energy (E
a
) of 45.26
kJ/mol. The value of the enthalpy of activation (H) for alum-morin dyeing on silk at pH 4.0 was
31.29 kJ/mol. Also the free energy (G) and entropy changes (S) for alum-morin on silk were
-17.73 kJ/mol and -45.7 kJ/mol K, respectively consistent with a spontaneous and exothermic
adsorption process.


2.5 Ultrasonic method of natural dyeing

Customers demand for ecofriendly textile and ecofriendly dyes led to the revival of
natural dyes for textiles, with the newer energy efficient dyeing process and more reproducible
shade developing process [2]. Vankar et al. [49] studied and reported ecofriendly sonicator
dyeing of cotton with Rubia cordifolia Linn. using biomordant. Use of biomordant replaces metal
mordants, thus making natural dyeing more ecofriendly. Vankar et al. [50] also studied
conventional and ultrasonic methods of dyeing cotton fabric with aqueous extract of Eclip alba.
The effects of dyeing show higher colour strength values obtained by the latter. Kamel et al. [51-
52] dyed wool and cationised cotton with lac as a natural dye using both conventional and
ultrasonic techniques. Ultrasonic provide effectiveness in dye-uptake of cationised cotton and
wool fabrics with lac dye, and enhanced effect after was about 66.5% for cationised cotton and
41-47% for wool. Ecofriendly ultrasonic textile dyeing with natural dyes such as Acacia catechu
and Tectona grandis show better and faster dye uptake after enzyme pretreatment on cotton
fabric, and results of dyeing are better than metal mordanted fabric, as reported by Vankar and
Shanker [53]. Vankar and Tiwari [54] studied the sonicator and conventional dyeing of cotton
fabric from Melastoma malabathricum and found that the percentage dye uptake of sonicator
dyeing technique shows higher than the conventional dyeing. Vankar et al. [55-56] also studied
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sonicator dyeing of cotton, wool and silk with Mahonia napaulensis DC and Symplocos spicata.
Vankar et al. [57] reported the sonicator dyeing of cotton with the leaves extract Acer pectinatum
Wallich and the results show that the net enhancement of dye uptake due to metal mordanting
and sonication has been found to range from 25% to 60% in the case of cotton compared to the
controlled samples at 19-55%. Sivakumar et al. [58] also reported ultrasound energy dyeing of
leather with beetroot for industrial and also found to be beneficial in natural dyeing of leather
with improved rate of exhaustion. The ultrasonic technique has been used to dyeing on wool
fabric with Sargentodoxa cuneata as natural dye, as studied by Xinsheng et al. [59].


2.6 Different mordants and mordanting methods

Mordanting is the treatment of textile fabric with metallic salts or other complex forming
agents which bind the natural mordantable dyes onto the textile fibers. Mordanting can be
achieved by either pre-mordanting, simultaneously mordanting or post-mordanting [2]. Different
types and selective mordants or their combination can be applied on the textile fabrics to obtain
varying colour or shade, to increase the dye uptake and improve the colour fastness behaviour of
any natural dye [2]. Extensive work has been reported [60-73] in this area study.
Ali et al. [74] studies the effect of pre-mordanting and post-mordanting with aluminium
sulfate, ferrous sulfate under different and reported that pre-mordanting and post-mordanting
with ferrous sulfate, there was huge change in hue and a great deal of decrease in the chroma or
purity of colour. Also, alum and iron did not result in any appreciable increase in fastness
properties [74]. Wool and silk fabrics have been dyed with colourant extracted from Rheum
emodi in the absence and presence of magnesium sulfate, aluminium sulfate and ferrous sulfate
mordants for producing shades of different colours, ranging from yellow to olive green as
reported by Bhattacharya et al. [75]. Bhattacharya et al.. [76] reported the methods of dyeing silk
with some natural colourants derived from arjun bark (Terminilia-Arjuna), babul bark (Acacia
arabica) and pomegranate rind (Punica granatum) and also mordanted with various mordants
viz. tannic acid, copper sulfate, stannous chloride, ferrous sulfate and aluminium sulfate by using
different mordanting techniques (pre, post and meta mordanting). It was found that dyed samples
were compared to the un-mordanted dyed samples which indicate that mordanting improves
colour strength, brightness as well as fastness properties of the dyed silk fabric. Shin and Cho
[77-78] studied the wool and cotton fabrics treated with different mordant types and also various
mordanting techniques were used to dye with American fleabane colourant. It was found that the
dye affinity of cotton fiber lower than wool and the K/S value of pre-mordanting was higher than
simultaneous mordanting or post-mordanting. Ameican fleabane produced mainly yellowish
colour on mordants and mordanting method. Pruthi et al. [79] optimized the dyeing of silk with
barberry bark dye (Berberis aristata Dc.) using mordant combination and found that the dyed
samples possess very good to excellent fastness. Chairat et al. [80] extracted colour dye
component from the dried fruit hulls of mangosteen (Garcinia mangostana Linn) was used for
dyeing of cotton and silk yarn. The results showed that the dyeing of cotton using the post-
mordanting method with ferrous sulfate and calcium hydroxide not only provided better depth of
shade but also provided better wash fastness and light fastness than with mordants (alum; zinc
tetrafluoroborate) or without a mordant. Deo and Desai [81] reported the dyeing of cotton and
jute with an aqueous extract of tea and shows that dyeing was carried out with and without metal
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salts as mordants, using three different dyeing methods: pre-mordanting, meta-mordanting and
post-mordanting. The resulting wash and light fastness of the dyed fabrics were good to
excellent. The exhaust dyeing process of wool yarn, cotton fabric and polyamide 6, 6 with
immediate use of the ash-tree bark (Fraxinus excelsior L.) extract as a dyebath and direct
addition of FeSO
4
.7H
2
O stock solution as a meta-mordant process showed good shade
reproducibility and satisfying levelness of the dyed material as reported by Bechtold et al. [82].
Vankar and Shanker [83] studied dyeing of silk fabric with flower of Delonix regia extract and
using a biomordant and enzyme. A bright reddish brown hue colour was observed when 30% owf
Delonix extract was used on the pretreated silk material and also found that dyed fabric showed
resistance to fading when mordanting with an enzyme or biomordant. Osman et al. [84] evaluated
the effect of levelness by using different variables, including: three different natural fabrics;
namely, wool, silk and cotton dyed with yellow natural dye from onion skins under the effect of
different mordants, and also three different natural dyes; namely, onion skins, turmeric and
madder applied on wool fabric samples under the effect of different mordants. The results show
that dyed samples with the highest colour strength (K/S) have the highest unlevelness and the
lowest colour difference values (i.e. the highest light fastness). Hou et al. [85] studied dyeing and
mordanting methods properties to wool fabrics of catechu dye purified by micro-filtration
membrane. The results show that the liquor of catechu dye is stable at pH values of 3-7 and its
colour changes to a deeper brown-red when its pH value is above 8. The dyed wool fabric has
good colour fastness to washing, alkaline perspiration and dry rubbing. Shanker and Vankar [86]
reported the use of aqueous extract of Gulzuba flower (Hibiscus mutabilis) with metallic salts
yield shades with good fastness properties for cotton, wool and silk dyed fabric. Cotton and silk
fabrics were dyed with Cassia tora L. extract at 90C for 60 min with pre-mordant of various
metal salts as mordants as studied by Lee and Kim [87]. It was found that the K/S of cotton
fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using FeSO
4
> CuSO
4
> ZnSO
4
> MnSO
4
Al
2
(SO
4
)
3

> NiSO
4
> none, however, the K/S of silk fabrics increased in the order of the dyeing using
FeSO
4
> CuSO
4
> ZnSO
4
Al
2
(SO
4
)
3
> MnSO
4
NiSO
4
> none. Mordants FeSO
4
and CuSO
4
for
cotton fabric, FeSO
4
and CuSO
4
and Al
2
(SO
4
)
3
for silk fabric were found to give good light
fastness. El-Shishtawy et al. [88] studied dyeing of modified acrylic fibers with curcumin and
madder natural dyes by using absence and presence alum and ferrous sulfate as mordant. It can be
seen that acrylic samples dyed with madder in the absence and presence mordant show the beige
to brownish shade. However, lemon yellow to brownish- yellow was found in acrylic dyed with
curcumin. Cotton and silk fabrics dyed with African marigold flower (Tagetes Ereecta L.) extract
by using iron and copper sulfate as a mordant have a good light fastness and also good to
excellent wash fastness as studied by Jothi [89]. Lokhande and Dorugade [90] also studied and
reported the effect of nylon fabric was dyed with three natural dyes derived from onion (Allium
cepa), lac (Laccifer Lacca) and turmeric (Curcuma longa) using various mordants by two
different techniques. (viz. open bath and high temperature high pressure (HTHP) dyeing
methods). HTHP dyeing has been found to give better results as compared to the open bath
dyeing. Good wash fastness was obtained with all three natural dyes.

2.7 Dyeing with natural dyes using padding techniques

The padding technologies are particularly advantageous to dyeing with the low-affinity
products, because the dye affinity to fiber by padding is unnecessary (in phase of the dye
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deposition on the fabric) [91]. The dye bath is cloth padded: mechanically applied by the rapid
passage through the small padding trough, the intensive squeezing between expression rollers
follows immediately. The process of padding is continuous and very rapid. It depends on the
arrangement of the following dye fixation if the total procedure is continuous or semi continuous.
The dye bath by padding is about one order higher than by the common dyeing from the
long bath (the so-called exhaustion methods), in which the dyestuff exhausts on the fiber in
consequence to its affinity to the fiber. The higher padding bath concentration results in more
rapid dye diffusion in fiber during the next fixation operation. Much smaller bath volume (related
to the fiber unit) causes the higher dye exploitation (see also Agarwal and Patel) [92].
In the case of natural dyes, the dye fixation is based on the reaction with the salts of
complex-forming metals-mordants in the same or next bath-or the textile can be pre-metalized
with mordant (this pre-mordanting is carried out from the long bath-the large non-effectiveness is
mentioned above. Therefore, we also experimented with pad-dry principle at this operation) [91].
In semi continuous dyeing technology, several methods of dye fixation are known. The
following two principles are important for our purpose:
(a) fixation by drying, the so-called pad-dry method, the process is rapid but requires a
reliably functional drying device (an excellently even -drying effect breadth-ways and cross-ways
in the fabric is necessary, otherwise it may result in colour depreciation and unevenness),
(b) fixation by batching of the padded goods at room or slightly increased temperature,
now known as the pad-batch method. The padded and rolled goods are wrapped up in an airtight
plastic sheet so that no selvedge drying occurs during storage, which lasts 824 hours.
After both dye fixation methods water rinsing follows repeatedly.
Most research on natural dyes has been focused on the fundamental aspects of natural
dyes by exhaustion process. Little attention has been give to the continuous process such as pad-
batch and pad-dry techniques [16, 91-94]. Mongkholrattanasit et al. [91] reported that silk and
wool fabrics dyed with the water extract of eucalyptus leaves in the presence of the FeSO
4
mordant in the same padding bath show a color range of a brown grey shade to a dark grey shade.
The yield (exploitation) of the coloring component of eucalyptus leave is surprisingly good in
wool fabric (about 68%52% from the lowest to the highest concentrations), and this corresponds
to the medium deep brown-grey shades in the concentrations of more than 20 g/L eucalyptus leaf
extract [91]. In the silk fabric, the exploitation is less favorable and the decline with the changing
to deeper shades is more distinct (about 22% to 15% exploitation) [91]. Agarwal and Patel [92]
investigated the wool fabric dyed with natural dye extracted from the skin of babool bark with
and without mordants using padding techniques. The results show that the dye liquor ratio is done
using two padding techniques, namely cold pad-batch and pad-dry-steam techniques.
Mongkholrattanasit et al. [93] has studied the dyeing and fastness properties of natural dyes
extracted from eucalyptus leaves using padding techniques. It is reported that a natural dye
extracted from eucalyptus leaves was applied to a silk and wool fabric by the use of two padding
techniques, namely the pad-batch and pad-dry techniques under different conditions. Silk and
wool fabrics dyed in a solution composed of eucalyptus extract from leaves showed a shade of
pale yellow to brown. The exception was when the fabric was dyed with ferrous mordant,
resulting in a shade of dark grayish-brown. The fastness properties ranged from good to
excellent, while light fastness was fair to good. Mongkholrattanasit et al. [94] studied the
properties of wool and cotton fabrics dyed with eucalyptus, tannin and flavonoids and reported
that wool fabrics dyed with eucalyptus leaf extract, quercetin, rutin and tannin show higher
colour strength than cotton fabrics. Tannins are considered as a main material in dyeing processes
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not only because of the shade similarities of eucalyptus leaves and tannin dyed on wool and
cotton fabric but also because of the K/S and absorption spectra similarities of eucalyptus leaf
extracts and tannin solutions.
The application of natural dyes on textile by pad-batch and pad-dry technique of dyeing
can be considered as an affective eco-option because it gives extremely good results with
substantial minimization of processing cost. In case of pad-dry technique, the average hot air
consumption is considerably high whereas no hot air is being consumed in cold pad-batch
process which leads to energy conservation. However, the time employed for the fixation of
natural dye is very long in cold pad-batch technique. So, these techniques can be considered as
best suitable for small scale industries or cottage dyeing of natural dyes.

3 Conclusions

Natural dyes cannot be used as simple alternatives to synthetic dyes and pigments. They
do, however, have the potential for application, in specified areas, to reduce the consumption of
some of the more highly polluting synthetic dyes. They also have the potential to replace some of
the toxic, sensitizing and carcinogenic dyes and intermediates. It has been found that natural dyes
are used in antibacterial, deodorizing, UV-protection and also food products.

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75. Das, D.; Maulik, S. R. & Bhattacharya, S. C.: Colouration of wool and silk with Rheum
emodi, Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research, Vol. 33 (June 2008) No.2, pp.163-170.
ISSN 0975-1025.
76. Bhattacharya, S. K.; Dutta, C. & Chatterjee, S. M.: Dyeing of silk with some natural
colourants, Man-Made Textile in India, Vol. 8 (August 2002), pp. 297-308, ISSN 0377-
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77. Shin, Y. S. & Cho, A.: Natural dyeing using the colorants extracted from American Fleabane
(Part I) Dyeing properties on wool, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles,
Vol. 27 (2003) No.12, pp. 1434-1440, ISSN 1225-1151.
78. Shin, Y. S. & Cho, A.: Natural dyeing using the colorants extracted from American Fleabane
(Part II) Dyeing properties on wool, Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles,
28 (2004) No.12, pp.1625-1631, ISSN 1225-1151.
79. Pruthi, N.; Chawla, G. & Yadav, S.: Dyeing of silk with barberry bark dye using mordant
combination, Natural Product Radiance, Vol. 7 (2008) No.1, pp. 40-44, ISSN 0976-0504.
80. Chairat, M.; Bremner, J. B. & Chantrapromma, K.: Dyeing of cotton and silk yarn with the
extracted dye from the fruit hulls of mangosteen, Garcinia mangostana Linn, Fibers and
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81. Deo, H. T. & Desai, B. K.: Dyeing of cotton and jute with tea as a natural dye, Journal of the
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82. Bechtold, T.; Mahmud-Ali, A. & Mussak, A. M.: Reuse of ash-tree (Fraxinus excelsior L.)
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83. Vankar, P. S. & Shanker, R.: Eco-friendly pretreatment of silk fabric for dyeing with Delonix
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84. Osman, E. M.; El-Ebissy, A. A. & Michael, M. N.: Characterization and evaluation of
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85. Hou, X.; Wei, L.; Zhang, X.; Wu, H.,; Zhou, Q. & Wang, S.: Dyeing properties to wool
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86. Shanker, R. & Vankar P. S.: Dyeing cotton, wool and silk with Hibiscus mutabilis (Gulzuba),
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RMUTP International Conference: Textiles & Fashion 2012
July 3-4, 2012, Bangkok Thailand

17
SECTION III
88. El-Shishtawy, R. M.; Shokry, G. M.; Ahmed, N. S. D. & Kamel, M. M.: Dyeing of modified
acrylic fibers with curcumin and madder natural dyes, Fibers and Polymers, Vol. 10 (2009)
No.5, pp. 617-624, ISSN 1875-0052.
89. Jothi, D.: Extraction of natural dyes from African marigold flower (Tagetes Ereecta L.) for
textile coloration, AUTEX Research Journal, Vol. 8 (June 2008) No.2, pp. 49-53, ISSN
14709589
90. Lokhande, H. T. and Dorugade, V. A. Dyeing nylon with natural dyes, American Dyestuff
Reporter, Vol. 88 (February 1999) No. 2, pp.29-34, ISSN 0002-8266.
91. Mongkholrattanasit, R.; Krytfek, J. & Wiener, J.: Dyeing of wool and silk by eucalyptus
leaves extract, Journal of Natural Fibers, Vol. 6 (2009) No.4, pp. 319-330. ISSN: 1544-
0478.
92. Agarwal, B. J. & Patel, B. H.: Studies on dyeing of wool with a natural dye using padding
techniques, Man-Made Textiles in India, Vol. 45 (2002), pp. 237241, ISSN 0377-7537.
93. Mongkholrattanasit, R.; Krytfek, J. & Wiener, J.: Dyeing and fastness properties of natural
dye extracted from eucalyptus leaves using padding techniques, Fibers and Polymers, Vol.
11 (2010) No.3, pp. 346-350, ISSN: 1229-9197.
94. Mongkholrattanasit, R.; Krytfek, J.;

Wiener, J. & Studnikov, J.: Properties of wool and
cotton fabrics dyed with eucalyptus, tannin, and flavonoids, FIBRES and TEXTILES in
Eastern Europe, Vol.19 (2011) No.2, pp. 90-95, ISSN: 1230-3666.