Art of perfumery

Exposing the Perfumer

What it means to be a perfumer in the information age and the need to communicate with consumers
Michelle Krell Kydd

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ccording to Merriam-Websters online dictionary, a perfumer is defined as one who makes or sells perfumes. This rather simplistic definition, circa 1580, offers no insight into what a perfumer actually does. Twenty years ago, it was off to the library if you wanted to know anything more than what a dictionary or Encyclopedia Britannica would tell you, but today, both professionals and hobbyists can turn to Web sites like that of Project Guttenbergwww.gutenberg.orgto download The Art of Perfumery by George William Septimus Piesse, or www.amazon.com to look for used copies of William Irving Kaufmans Perfume. Presently, true atelier methods and the structured form of perfumery education are not public knowledge. As more information on fine fragrances and raw materials becomes public on the Internet, people want to know more about the creators behind their favorite fragrances. Not all of the information available online is accurate, which affects perceptions offline, leaching into other media, such as print. It is time for the industry to take the reigns and bring perfumers into the limelight.

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PERFUMER & FLAVORIST

What a perfumer does has always been personal stories about what they have learned and a mystery to consumers, according to discussing fragrances they have made for themselves perfumer Jean Pierre Subrenat, organizer or friends. There is an ethos that surrounds these of the World Perfumery Congress groups that is highly personal, something one and owner of Creative Concepts. does not find in a department or specialty Our job has always been an store. A rejection of synthetics is part of that obscure and misunderstood one, culture for members of the Artisan Natural and the consumer cannot decide Perfumers Guild, founded by author Mandy if we are chemists, alchemists or Aftel. Members favor the purity and beauty of just witch doctors. All of this is naturals, speaking about raw materials with the due to a lack of communication same enthusiasm that chocolate lovers have and exposure. Real perfumers go when discussing the organoleptic properties of Michelle Krell Kydd through long and rigorous training their favorite varietals. Its not about fashion or that lasts at least 10 years. One cannot be a brands to these creators and consumersit is about self-declared perfumer just because they the relationship they have with knowledge, crafted are able to blend a couple of essential oils... scents and raw materials. [otherwise] everyone who cooks or burns a steak is a three-star Michelin chef! Perfumer Defined A growing number of fragrance craftThe meaning of the word perfumer was precious to ers, most without traditional training, are Givaudan perfumer Jean Carles, who found the lack studying many of the old texts and colof a standard in olfactive training quite maddening. lecting books such as Stephen Arctanders Carles developed a system of study, creating two Perfume and Flavor Materials of Natural distinct charts that organized raw materials by Originsthe same book used by professimilarity and contrast, one for naturals and one for sional perfumers. In virtual communities, synthetics. (See example charts in T-1 and T-2, and enthusiasts avidly explore the history learn how perfumers train from them by reading of fragrance and raw materials, sharing Using the Jean Carles Method.)

The method, which bears his name, is an industry standard used by all professional perfumers and was practically olfactive apocrypha to people outside the fragrance business until enthusiasts started telling each other about William Irving Kaufmans Perfume. Carles also founded Givaudans Perfumery School in 1946, when it was part of Roure. Jean Guichard, who is currently director of the Perfumery School, is proud of that legacy and adds that, one-third of fine fragrance creators working in the business today are graduates of the school. These graduates include Jacques Polge (Chanel), Jean-Claude Ellena (Herms), Calice Becker and Franoise Caron, among others. For Guichard, the boundaries regarding who is and isnt a perfumer are clearjust because someone can smell well and is adept at mixing accords does not make him/her a perfumer. Mixing raw materials for fun and creating interesting accords is creative and promising, but a perfumer needs real [perfume] bases, real knowledge and real experience. Can we call someone a chef if he takes pleasure in cooking and mixing flavors at home? Can we call someone an oenologue if he likes to drink wine, and appreciate it? Can someone be called an artist if he enjoys painting? I think [enjoyment] is not enough. Hobby and profession are two different things. In a hobby there are mainly nice facets. In a profession there are a lot of frustrations that stimulate your creativity [and lead to new discoveries]. Guidance and training: The incomplete definition of a perfumer offered by Merriam-Webster supports the assumption that selling perfumes alone makes one a perfumer. Acceptance of that definition dilutes the hard work and effort that goes into traditional training, to Subrenats point, which not only means attendance at an established perfumery school for three to four years, but five or more years of apprenticeship under an experienced perfumer, whose skill and know-how help a junior perfumer grow into a seasoned one. When Givaudan perfumer Yann Vasnier refers to Franoise Caron, he does so with loving respect for his maitre parfumeur (master perfumer), the experienced professional who trained him. A master perfumer can provide the kind of nurturing that one cannot get from reading books or participating in the virtual world of the Internet. Carlos Benaim, a senior perfumer at International Flavors and Fragrances (IFF), says that, for each mod made, there are at least 50 mods behind [it], a fact that makes a threshold for rejection and tweaking an absolute requirement of the job of a perfumer. Benaim reminisces about his early days at IFF, under the tutelage of Ernest Shiftan, and is pleased that his company follows the historic atelier model that was in effect when he began his career at IFF. Emotional connection to scent: There are standards in every profession, but the sensorial nature of fragrance creation brings a great deal of emotion to the table. Our identity as individuals is based in part

The Fragrance Conversation Online

Here are just some of the numerous Web sources for perfumery discussion, education and debate:

www.gutenberg.org/etext/16378

Download The Art of Perfumery by George William Septimus Piesse at: Natural Perfumery:

www.artisannaturalperfumers.org (Mandy Aftels Artisan Natural Perfumers Guild) http://health.groups.yahoo.com/group/NaturalPerfumery www.boisdejasmin.typepad.com http://nowsmellthis.blogharbor.com www.perfumesmellinthings.blogspot.com www.scentzilla.com www.leffingwell.com/perfume.htm www.PerfumerFlavorist.com

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Perfumery Discussion and Blogs:

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on how we arrange our recollections, and scent is the ultimate evoker of memories. There is no wrong answer when it comes to how someone feels about what they experience with their senses. Understanding this is quite a revelation to some who dont work in flavors and fragrances. Combine the physiological and psychological aspects of smelling with information that can be found on the Internet and it is easy to see how misunderstandings can occur. There isnt a universal editor working to make sure that all Web content is accuratethere are millions of fiefdoms. This unleashes tremendous virtual creativity, but it can also leave a trail of invisible snake oil between Internet users and their computer screens.

Mixing raw materials for fun and creating interesting accords is creative and promising, but a perfumer needs real [perfume] bases, real knowledge and real experience. Jean Guichard
The Rise of Self-trained Perfumers
Should one consider the rise in self-trained fragrance crafters alarming? The answer is maybe. The movement is a natural response to department store ennui, a dearth of genuine olfactive and sensorial educational initiatives and the over-celebritized flankerization of fine fragrance. In addition, there is a legacy aspect among enthusiasts, similar to the one that perfumery schools and programs promote, based on fragrance history and the idea of learning something from others who possess knowledge. There is, however, cause for debate, as in 2006, Allure, Cosmopolitan and O, The Oprah Magazine gave crafters and oil mixers ink as perfumers. This is a reminder that the definition of a perfumer may not be clear to beauty editors, writers or the public.*
*Magazine articles that refer to untraditionally trained fragrance creators as perfumers: L Van Gelder, The Scent Renegades. Allure, October, 298303 (2006). Your Sexiest Scent Revealed. Cosmopolitan, November, 8790 (2006). C Burr, What Is That Fragrance Youre Wearing. O, The Oprah Magazine, November, 165170 (2006).

The path to clarification of who is and isnt a perfumer will require that the client side of the industry get more comfortable with putting a public face on perfumers, and educating their respective marketing and communications staff with regard to the science behind the sense of smell. This is a long-term project for the industry, but one that has been slowly building momentum. In 2004, IFF Perfumer Carlos Benaim was included at the in-store launch of Prada at Saks Fifth Avenues New York store, but very few of these types of events have occurred. Prior to that, in 2000, Frdric Malle Editions de Parfums began putting a public face on perfumers. Before this, at least in the United States, perfumers were shrouded in mystery due to fears that they would upstage the brands for which they were creating fragrances. Malles line of perfumer-inspired fragrances put the creator center stage, becoming part of the brands equity, an ingredient that niche perfumery Le Labo also touts, albeit in a less prevalent mannerpictures of the perfumers who make the scents are not on the box, but they are openly discussed at counter. Malle, the grandson of Dior Perfumes founder Serge Heftler, was recently named fragrance columnist for Allure. When asked if valid work was being done by untraditionally trained perfumers, Malle says, No. The traditional way seems best to me. Also, [traditional perfumery training] only works if you work very hard, as it is a skill based on experience. Of course one does not go anywhere without talent. The types [untraditionally trained perfumers] that you make reference to are most often amateurs. From experience, I can tell you that their work, although some rare times different, is always imprecise and mediocre. It takes a very skilled artist to finish a fragrance. Malle goes even further with regard to training by stating, The best [perfumers] come out of the ex-Roure, now Givaudan, in Grasse. Another great source of top perfumers is International Flavors and Fragrances in-house training. Other academic perfumery schools, like the two Malle mentions, existbut the public doesnt know about them.

VOL. 32 MAY 2007

Natural vs. Synthetic

Published in 2001, Aftels Essence and Alchemy presents the early history of fine fragrance and application of select raw materials in perfumery. It encourages the crafting of fragrance from natural essential oils and absolutes, and includes simple formulas that are accessible. Because Aftel is aromamolecule aversehence the chapter title A Natural History of Perfumesthere are missing pieces if one is seeking a complete and accurate history of fine fragrance and its evolution beyond Ernest Beauxs use of aldehydes in Chanel No. 5, the benchmark for fashion-based fragrance concepts. In the same vein, Chandler Burr revealed some of the political inner workings of essential houses in his book, The Emperor of Scent (2003), through the

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Using the Jean Carles Method

Jean Carles frustration over a lack of olfactive training method led to the development of two distinct charts that organized raw materials by similarity and contrast, one for naturals and one for synthetics. The charts shown in T-1 (naturals) and T-2 (synthetic) contain 60 materials in each. Although Givaudans perfumery school gives their students more in-depth chartswith about 150 natural and 350 synthetic raw materialsT-1 and T-2 are great examples of how this method works. The charts may be interpreted as follows: 1. Starting with Study 1, and moving down the column (vertically), students are able to learn by contrast. This enables trainees to smell very different raw materials (lemon, rose, star anise, jasmine, mint, etc.), which are each very characteristic of the family they represent. According to Jean Guichard, who is currently director of Givaudans Perfumery School, Normally, there is no problem learning to distinguish between materials in this vertical study. It would be similar to seeing and being able to distinguish black, red and yellow. The same exercise can be carried out with Studies 26, always working vertically. This concludes the study of the contrast type of smelling. 2. Moving on to Study 7, and moving across the row (horizontally), students are able to compare the raw materials of the same family and distinguish between them. Students start with the citrus family: lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, etc. All of these raw materials are citrus, fresh, energetic, acidic and juicy. The goal is to find the facets that characterize each of themsome words, some peculiar odors typical to lemon that are reminiscent of grapefruit, etc. Here are some examples: Lemon: acidic, sour and sweet, aggressive, bright, lemon cake, lemon tea Grapefruit: fresh, orangey, but bitterness is coming in some minutes, aldehydic, piquant Orange: fresh, sparkling, freshly squeezed orange juice, summer holidays The idea for these charts is simple but ingenious. As Guichard explains, In every learning process we never start with the impossible, but we should proceed progressively. Here our nose will be slowly getting [acclimated] and slowly improving. It [requires] continuous work; exercise is necessary everyday. Exactly as musicians need to practice scales with their fingers, perfumers need to practice raw material scales with their nose.

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Olfactive study of natural raw materials* 2nd Study Bergamot oil Italy Orpur Lavandin Grosso oil Orpur Volet leaves abs. Orpur Verbena Africa RGV Spearmint oil USA type Basil oil, Egypt Orpur Cinnamon bark oil Ceylon Ylang Ylang oil Extra Orpur Geranium oil, Africa Orange flower abs. Mimosa abs. France Nutmeg oil Indonesia Black Pepper ess. Tarragon oil Pink peppercorns CO2 Crude orris butter Coriander oil Muguet C5 RIFM Citronella oil Java Rosemary oil, Northern Eucalyptus oil rect. Armoise oil Africa Orpur Mandarin oil Orange oil, Florida Lime oil distilled Yellow Italy Orpur 3rd Study 4th Study 5th Study 6th Study Grapefruit oil Clary sage oil France Orpur

T-1

Study Family

1st Study

7th Citrus notes

Lemon oil Italy Orpur

8th

Agrestic notes (camphorated)

Lavender oil France Orpur

9th Green notes

Galbanum oil Concentrated

10th Citral notes

Lemongrass oil Guatemala

11th Minty notes Peppermint oil

12th

Anisic notes

Star Anise oil, China

13th Spicy notes Clove buds oil

14th Floral notes Rose oil, Bulgaria Petitgrain oil Paraguay Osmanthus abs. Cedarwood Virginia Type Myrrh Rsinoid Washed SB

Jasmine abs. Tuberose abs., India Communelle

15th Rosy notes

Rose de Mai abs. France Orpur

16th

Orange flower Neroli oil, Tunisia notes

17th Fruity notes

Blackcurrant buds abs. 70%/PG

18th Woody notes

Sandalwood Australia SD

Vetyver oil Haiti Patchouly oil w/ iron dried filtered Elemi Resinoid 50% BB Tonka beans abs. colourless

Oakmoss abs. Tyrol SB 10% PHT

Guaiacwood oil Paraguay

19th Resin notes

Incense Resin. Washed SB 50% PHT

20th

Ambery notes

Cistus abs. SB, Spain Benzoin Tears Tolu Balsam abs. GV Siam 50% DIP Syrax Rsinoid Honduras SB

21st Balsamic notes Peru Balsam abs. SIS Vanilla abs. RBD Castoreum Arte. Resin. 246/2 IFR 10% PHT

22nd Animalic notes

Civet artess. abs. 10% PHT

*Property of Givaudan

Olfactive study of synthetic raw materials* 2nd Study Dihydro myrcenol Camphor synt Tricyclal Azurone 10%/TEC Carvone laevo Galbanone 10 Gardenol Methyl octine carbonate Methyl pamplemousse 3rd Study 4th Study 5th Study

T-2

Study

Family

1st Study

6th

Citrus notes

Citral Lemarome N

7th

Agrestic notes

Linalyl acet. synt

8th

Green notes

Hexenol-3-cis

9th

Marine notes

Calone 1951

10th

Minty notes

Menthol natural

11th Ald. C 11 Undecylenic 10% DPG Cinnamic ald. Hydroxycitronellal synt Geraniol extra Hedione Benzyl salicylate Citronellyl acet. Florol Isoraldeine 95 Damascone beta Lactone jasmine gamma

Anisic notes

Anethole synt

12th Aldehydic notes

Ald. C 10 Decylic FCC 10% DPG

13th

Spicy notes

Eugenol pure

14th

Floral notes

Linalool synt

Ionone beta Rose oxyde laevo

15th

Rosy notes

Phenyl ethyl alc.

16th

Jasminic notes

Benzyl acet. extra

17th Prunolide Vetivenyl acet. 112 extra Belambre 50%/IPM Kephalis Evernyl Hexenyl acet. cis-3

Orange flower notes

Methyl anthranilate extra Raspberry ketone Sandalore Cedryl methyl ether Cassis base 345 FH Javanol

18th

Fruity notes

Peach pure

19th Woody notes Iso E Super

20th

Ambery notes

Ambrofix

21st Heliotropine crist. Moxalone 50%/TEC STAB

Balsamic notes

Cinnamic alc. synt Coumarin pure crist. Nirvanolide Ethyl maltol

22nd

Sweet notes

Vanillin

23rd

Musky notes

Galaxolide 50 DEP

24th

Leathery notes

Pyralone

25th

Animalic notes

Indole pure 10% DPG

*Property of Givaudan

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Its not about fashion or brands to these creators (natural, self-trained perfumers) and consumersit is about the relationship they have with knowledge, crafted scents and raw materials.
experience of Luca Turin, a biophysicist who openly challenged the shape-based theory of olfaction purported by Richard Axel and Linda Buck (who, incidentally, received the Nobel Prize in 2004 for their discovery of the human genes governing olfactive receptors, a year after Burrs book was published). Turin was an interesting study, and his knack for describing his love of perfume has become as beloved as it is emulated. Burr, appointed perfume critic by the New York Times in 2006, is on the opposite end of the fragrance spectrum when compared to Aftelhe has an interest in molecules that are created in the lab.

Bickering regarding naturals and synthetics does more to serve ego and ignorance than it does fine fragrance creation and education. A well-made fine fragrance has distinct signature and when that quality is not present, whether in a natural composition or one that utilizes both synthetics and naturals, the consumer will be dissatisfied. This is something everyone can agree on.

Reaching Out
In addition, when the naturals vs. synthetics debate replaces well-informed dialogue, flavor and fragrance houses need to take action, alongside industry organizations like the Fragrance Foundation and the American Society of Perfumers. Building on existing erudition, these institutions and corporations have tremendous potential that can be actualized through education programs in schools and in the media. The public is hungry for this kind of information, which explains the fervor with which fragrance bloggers and their readers discuss a perfumes creator and the juice. For those who are more numbers focused, less than expected sales in an oversaturated market should be reason enough to listen to the consumer and build the knowledge base. Givaudans Jean Guichard makes a simple, yet powerful observation regarding the appreciation of the art of fine fragrance and the importance of education. Perfumery can be compared to painting. There are some masterpieces that we appreciate more when they have been explained to us, when we understand the context, the historical climate, the idea and the personal life of the painter. It is the same for some complicated perfumes, such as chypre ones. Some perfumes are simpler to understand, like citrus or floral ones, but we cant impose olfactive educationthe interest needs to come from a person. We can try to introduce a module in school as it is true that children are very perceptive and interested in odors we can educate their noses and help them to be more expert choosing their products later. A fine fragrance gift with purchase or sexy marketing story may be an attention grabber in-store, but neither are catalysts for long-term sales growth knowledge is. Knowledge reaches beyond the parameters of brand awareness and evokes passion in the customer and makes them want to learn more. So who can be reasonably considered a perfumer? If the industry does not make an effort to educate the public regarding what it takes to become a perfumer, then the answer is virtually anyone.
Address correspondence to Michelle Krell Kydd; [email protected]. To purchase a copy of this article or others, visit www.PerfumerFlavorist.com/articles.

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