TO THE MEMORY OB

Preface

n ~rellaringthis work it has been the

writer's aiin to present a faithful and
reliable description of the Madeiras,
and to treat their history as somewhat distinct
from that of the mother-country, Portugal, with
which, it is believed, they have heretofore been
too closely associated by historians.
I11 ~ t y l i u g
the
natives of t h ~ s eislands Madei-
rans the author has filrthermore dellasted from
the custom of all previous writers on the subject,
who have called them Portuguese, an appellation
which the natives themselves resent. Por this
divergence from the usual course the following
reason is offered.
The settlement of Madeira took place previous
to the discovery of America, and the Madeiran
7
race has received a large admixture of foreigll
blood through intermarriage of the original set-
tlers with colonists from every couiltry of the
Old World, so that the natives of the preseilt day
in language, appearance, and racial characteris-
tics are noticeably different from the iilhabitapts
of the so-called mother-cotultry.
The writer has been cilgaged during the past
twelve years i11 the pre1)aration of the present
work. H e has sought out existing scraps of his-
tory relatiilg to Madeira as published in vario~zs
little-knowa and almost iimccessible works i n
different lailgnages. 111 the course of this aearch
he has delved into the dust-covered volumes of
many of .the libraries of the Old Woilld. At all
times he has been at paiils to sift history and
tradition for the truth regarding the cliscovery
and history of the Madeiras, and to give clue
credit in all iastances to those works fiom whose
pages he has derived assistance.
A number of the illustrations hereill are re-
productions fiom photographs taken during the
8
 [Preface
writer's visit to Madeira, while.others are from
photogral~hs loaned to him By Mr. E. Clari-
butt Skianer, through the coulrtesy of the Union
Steamship Company, of London. A section of
tlic Medici Map is reproduced from the Lau-
rentiail Portulano, dated 1351; the other map
plates have been made expressly for this work
from the latest dmwillgs of admiralty and other
surveys.
A11 especially difficult labonr was the ferret-
ing out and piecing together of the cletails of
Machids story, as the writer found them !cat-
toyed here a i d there in various archives of
Portuguese history and folk-lore. H e regrets
to say tlmt i11 this uadertakiag he has derived
little help from the writings of modern llistorians
other than the Portuguese, for, while the former
sometimes refer to the story of Machin as resting
on too a~xthei~tic a foundation to be discarded,
they omit garticmlars, with the excuse that his
prediscovery of Madeira is strictly traditiopal.
Realizing that many matters of history rest
9
more or leas u111on a legendary foundation, aud
desiring that Maellin should receive the benefit
of an historical doubt, the writer ventures to
present an acco~ultof the early prediscovery of
t l ~ eMadeiras, wllich he believes to be true in all
l~artic~~lars.
It is not the writer's purpose to set forth in
this worlc any detailed argument iu support of
his version of the history of the ~ulfortnnate
lovers. Their stoi*ylwhen fully told mill consti-
tute a volume in itself and will be entitled " The
History of Robert A Machia." That students of
Madeira11 history may, however, not be too much
inclined to discredit the version of Madeira's first
discovery, as narrated by the writer, he here
supplies a few facts ill snpport of his theory.

Mr. R. H. Major's argument in support of the versio~i

herein adhered to, which is contained ih his valuable work,
published in London by A. Asher 6 Co., in 1868, under the
title of " The Life of Prince Henry of Portugal " (elsewhere
referred to in this work), is the most comprehensive and
convincing that has thus far appeared.
10
 Machill's history was first given to the world
in full detail by E'railciisco Maaocl de Mello, a
celebrated old Portuguese author, in his volume
entitled Bl~aaaphorasde Varia historisl Portu-
gueza," published at Lisbon ill the year 1G60.
De Mello declares that his history of Macllia was
copied fiom the manuscril~tof Fra~lciscoAlcafo-
rado, a squire of. Prince Henry, who accom-
panied Zargo up011 his voyage of rediscovery,
and who chronicled the events as they took
lace. The Alcaforado manuscript, together
wit11 a, detailed acco~~iltof Zargo'~voyage, came
illto de Mello's possessioi~,upon his marriage into
Zargo7s family, about the middle of the seven-
teentb ceatnry. Although there are grave doubt's
entcrtaiaed as to this a i d as to the veracity of
de Mello's account, it acems illcredible t l ~ a .do
t
Mcllo, hiillsclf n I'ortuguese, should detract fiom
the glory of his own nation by awarding the
hosonr of prediscovery to a foreigner, nl~lesafor
tmth's sake, Again, it seems iinprobable that
he would so basely detract fiom the honour of
11
 Dreface
his wife's family as ~u~truthfully to belittle the
acl~ievementsof her ancestor. The Portnguese
we the first to nnp~ortde BIello's acconnt, and
they would be the last t o do so if they were
not tl~oro~ighly co~lviilcedof its truthfulness in
every important particular : aatm.lzlly they would
rn~zcllprefer that the honour of the discovery
should rest entirely with their owl1 explorer,
Zargo, and not be divided with a11 Englishman.
I f Machin's prediscovery be a myth, whence did
Macllico, the coast village in Madeira wllicl~is
said t o mark tlle spot where Machill landed, and
which was so called by, his successors, derive its
name? Moreover, why should Zargo's followers,
oil their ret~znlto Portugal, have spread broad-
cast an acconilt of the fii~dingof Machill's
grave? This accoui~tcame, in various degrees
of completeness, to the eaw of Nnilocl Thomaz,
Ailtoi~ioGalvfio, Valesti~lPqnandez, n d mai~y
other writers of olden days, dl of whom chron-
icled i t at the time. I11 conclnsion, it may be
confidently believed that the patriotic native
12
historians of Portugal-who are ever a t pains
to remind the present generation of the past
glories of their aatioli-would not s~zpportthe
theory of &Iachin7sprediscovery if they collld
find reasonable cause to dou~btit. And now,
haviag set forth a brief argunlent i11 support of
the history of Robert a MachinYsdiscovery of
the Madeira Islands, it seems to the writer but
just and fair to his readers to give them a glailce
at the other side of the question ttader discussion.
With this end i11 view, the writer has selected
some of the most able opilliolls contrary to the
versioil of Machin's history which he s ~ ~ p l ~ o r t s ,
and these statelnents will be fo~nldin collected
forin at the end of this volume under the title
of " A Postscript to the Preface."
I1 the preparation of these volnmes it has been
1

the writer's twofold to make, 011 the one

hand, a ready-refergnce book for the student,
with zt complete set of foot-note references aild
alphabe.l;ical lists and indexes, and, on the other
haad, a readable narrative for the lover of travel,
13
exploration, and adventmne. Hence the colitents
of the work have been so arranged that Volume
I. embraces the purely literary and descriptive
matter, such as would most interest the general
reader or a*prospective visitor to the Madeiras ;
while the more technical and scielltific subjects
are given separately in Volume 11.
 PRINCE HENRY O F PORTUGAL, SURNAMED T H E NAVIGATOR.
PRUIU)TBK OP T H E X B U I X U V E R Y O P T H B MADEIRA ISLANDS.

IROM A M I I Y A N R K , BNGRA\'IKGS O P WHICH ARE REPRODUCED IN = E YATmSCm*

O P "THB.DISCUVERY OP GUINHI;' 1448; IN "THE LIFB 01 PXINCB
HeaaY," 1868: AND IN "THB STORY OP PORTVGAL." 1895.
 THE
LAND OF THE W
AN ACCOUNT O P TNE M A D E I R A ISLANDS AT
TNE BE G I N N I N G OP THE TWENTIETH
CENTURY, A N D PR OAI A NE I.V
POINT 03 VIE W

BY
A. J. DREXEL BIDI)LE,F.R.G.S.,F.G.S.A., F.R.M.S.,
MEMIkER O F T H R AMELlICAN NULMISMATIC A N D ARCH&OLOGICAL SOCIZTY,
MENIBER O F T I I B GEOGRAPBICAL SOCIETY O F PHILADELPHIA. MEMBER O F
T H E D E P A R T M E N T O F ARC .OLOGY AND PALA30NTOLOGY OR T H E
u N I v E R s I T Y O F P E N N F L v A N r a , DELEGATE. B Y s m c r u
APPOINT.VBNT, O F T l I E ASSOCIA~AO COMMERCIAL O F
FUNCHAL. I\IADEIRA, TO T H E INTERNATIONAL
COIINERCIAL C O N G R S S I N PRILA-
DELl'HIA, U. S. A., 1699

VICE-PRESIDSNT F O R MADBIRA O F T A B ADVISORY BOARD OR T H E

1'BILADELPHIA CO.XXERCIbL M U S E U S

AUTKOR OF 1 1 MADEIRA
~ ~ ISLANDS."
~ ~ "THE BIRTH OF THE NATION,"
THE LIFE OF ANDREW JACKSON." " L A BELLE PRANCR," "THE
FLOWISRS O F L I F E , " " A YIOGRAPHICAL ROMANCE," ETC., ETC.

'WITH THIRTY-EIGHT FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS ; MAPS OF*

FUNCHAL AND OF THE ISLAND OF LIADEIRA, SHOW-
ING THE MOUNTAINS AND THEIR HEIGHTS ;
AND A SECTION OF THE RIEDICI MAP
A N D COMPRISING

THE HISTORY OF THE MADEIRAS ; INFORhlATION FOR THE

TRAVELLER AND VISITOR j AND A TREATISE ON THE
GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY AND CLIhIATE
 ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

PRINTED BY DREXEL BIDDLE, PHILADELPHIA, V. S . A.

 PART I
The History of the Nadoiras

'VIIJG 1)TMUOVIltY ANI) BJilTl'LIMIN'I' OF Z'OnTO BANTO AND TIrm

RlG1)IBUOVBltP OU MAl)fiIZlb
Tllo Clrow oacnpo by Son, bul 1 t ~ n di n AMccc, wl~orol l ~ o ynro
lrinilo 6lsvo~-llornlefl X~onrsof (illo NOWI~land-Xnrgo
l o n r ~ Morales's
l~ 8ocrat;-Znrgo HQLU forLlr. Lo discovor-
1)iscovory nnd Nnmiug o r Pnrlo SnnLo-Tllo Govornor~
oi' 1'0th 8anlo-Tho Now l'orluguoao (Tolony-%~~i*go'~
8oaond Expodition-1todisc;:avory anrl Nnming of Mncloirn
--I'onln, clo Bfio Louronyo-Tho Grc~vool' tllo Lovorfl Je
~ ~ H c o v o ~ c ~ build8 ~ o Lo lllo Momorg or l110
- - ~ &a~Ohnpol
L'recli~covorors-Tl~o Modici Mrrl)-l~ifo col' 1'1~inco lxatlry
$110 Nnvigntor-porlo 8nnl;o'~PirHL Cjl.ovcn~o~-Uourl~l~i~)
1F
 Contents of Uoiume 1
PAGE
of Columbus-Columbus weds Perestrello's Daughter-
Columbus a Resident in the Madeiras-A Coincidence
that led to the Discovery of America-Colurnbus's House
-The Duke deveragua-Christopher Columbus-hguilere
-Discovery and Naming of Porto do Seixo-Cabo air60 40

C H A P T E R I11
THE SBTTLEMENT OB MADEIRA
Zargo is knighted-Where Zargo is buried-Adam and Eve
-Colonization of Madeira-Best Family Names To-day
-Distinguished Madeiran Colonists-First Two Settle-
ments-Changes i n Administration .. .. .. . 67
OHAPTER IV
THB 3IODERN HISTORY OF THE MADEIRAS

Erection of the Cathedral-De Montluc raids Funchal-

Murder of Father Roderigo and Nine of his Brotherhood
-Gaspar Correa is put to Death-Bombardment of the
Cathedral-Assassination of Governor d'ornellas-Death
of De Montluc-Spanish Usurpation of Portugal-Sig-
nification of Ilha da Madeira-The Seven Years' Fire-
Slavery-Race-Chptain Book's Sojourn in Madeira-
British Occupancy of Madeira-Kapoleon brought; to
MadeiradThe Revolution of 1823-Civil Wars-Coro-
nation of Donna Maria-Dom Pcdro V., the Wise and
Just Ruler-Reign of Dom Luiz I.-The First Ocean
qable-Dom Gnrlos I.,the Present King-Dethronement
of the King is advocated-Victory for Dom Carlos-The
African Question-The Portuguese Historians, and their
Patriotic Pride-The Present Queen-The Queen's Cha.r-
acter-The King's Character-Why Madeira is Especially
Interesting to the World ..... . , , . .
, 82
16
 P A R T I1
Travel and Sight-Seeing
CHAPTER V
LANDING AT MADEIRA
PAGE
Madeira from the Sea-In Funchal Bay-Enterprising Na-
tives-Native Swimmers-Where Sharks abound-Deep-
Sea Divers-Health Officers and Hotel Agents-Landing
in Former Days-Present Manner of Landing-The Cus-
tom-House-Ticket of Residence Requirement--When
a Passport is Necessary-Countries having Consuls i n
Madeira-Modes of Conveyance-The Rede and the
Carro-The Superior Conveyance-A Ride through the
Streets of Funchal-Street Paving-Narrow Highways-
Along the Boulevard-Scenes by the Wayside-Shops-
he Cathedral Externally-The Residence Quarter-
Private Gardens-The Ubiquitous Lizard-Arrival at the
Hotel-Howto avoid Banstroke-Diet for the New-Comer 109

C H A P T E R V1
STEAYSEIP ROUTE8 TO MADEIRA ; HOTELS AND BOARDINQ-HOUSES
I N THE TOWNS AND VILLAQNS cr,

Passenger Steamers-Steamera from New York-Steamers

from England-;Steamers from the Canary Islands-
Stcamers from Portugal-From Paris to Lisbon by Rail
-Steamers from Belgium-Steamers from Germany-
Steamers from France-The Maritime Signal Tower-
The New Hotel-Boat Hire-The Royal Edinburgh Hotel
-The German Hotel- he Hotel Miles Carmo-Hotel
Santa Clara-Jones's Hotel, " Bella Vista "-Accomm~.
I.-2 17
 Content0 of Volume 1
PAGE
dations away from Funchal-Lodging at Boa Ventura-
Lodging at Santa.Cruz--Lodging a t SEo Vicente-Lodg-
ing at Rabagal-Lodging a t Santa Anna-Lodging at
Seixal-Private English Houses-Furnished Houses-.
Servants -Drinking-Water -The Cook -Marketing-
Market Value of Commodities-Clubs and Libraries . 138 .

EXCURSIONS ABOUT FUNCHAL AND IN THE VIUINITP

The Mount Church-Railway aud Tramway-Sledging down

the Mount-Legend of the Fountain-Feast of the As-
sumption-A View of the Interior-The Little Curral-
Pico do Areeiro -The Grand Curral-Picos Ruivo, Cidrso,
Canario, and Torres-A Guide is Desirable-How to
dress for Mountaineering-Where the Rbde is Desirable
-How to choose the R6de-Bearers-How the RBde is
carried-The Madeiran Walk-The RBde Superior to
Conveyances of Similar Kind in Other Parts of the World
-Eow the RBde should be hired-Time required for
Certain Excursions-Madeiran Horticul ture-Hotel Gar-
dens-Lawn-Tennis-The Season for a Stroll about Town
-Hospi~io-The Late Domager Empress of Brazil-
H o s p i ~ i ~ s a nCase
t a da Misericordia-Leprosy, and the
Leper Hospital-Praga da ConsCitui~Bo-A Public Gar-
den-The ~ e Public w Gardens-Prapa cla Rainha-
Palacio de SEo Lourengo-Relating to the Governor-
The Palatial Art-Cialleries-The Meteorological Observa-
tory-Fountains-Aa Fontes de Joko Diniz-As i n Bib-
lical Days-The Museum-The Opera-House-N'ews-
papers-Varadouras Gateway-The County Prison-The
Qasiqo-goonlight Excursions ........ < W : 168
18
 Contente of U)oluine 1
C H A P T E R V111
JOURNEYS TO DISTANT POINTS O F INTEREST
PAGE
Santa Cruz-By Steamer to Santa Cruz-Inhabited Coast Dis-
tricts-Eotel Santa Cruz-Caves-Machico-wins of a
Franciscan Monastery-Art-Gallery in the Chapel of the
Sacrament-Capella of Nosso Senhor de Milagres-A
Subterranean Ca~ern-The Fossil Bed-Ponta de 850
-
Lourengo Ilheo dlAgostinho -The Light-House-
Church of Santo Antonio da Serra-Lamaceiros Pass-
Porto da Cruz-CalhGta-Monastery in CalhSta-Paul do
Mar-The PrazBres-Farming Country-Love for Labour
-How Mourning is worn-The Observance of Mourning
in Funchal. . . . . . . . ...... . . . 206

P A R T 111
The Geography and Geology
CHAPTER I X
T E E GEOCtnAPEY ARD QBOLOW
Volcanic Formation-Situation of the Madeiras-The Time
-Soondings-Basalt and Tufa-Size of Madeira--Snow
-Lava-What Tufa is-Eartliqnakes-Coast Cohforma-
tion-Age of the Island of Madeira-Cabo Girdo, the
Second Highest Sea-Cliff in the World-Quarries of Can-
taria, Building-8tone-Geraniums, Broom, Cactus, and
Prickly Pear-Air-Eoles and Caverns-Tide-Ths In-
habited Islands-Porto Santo-Ilheo de Baixo-Lime-
ICilns of Funchal-Fossil Land-Land-Shells Peculiar
to Porto Santo-Life at Porto Sauto-Local Steamship
Service-The Desertas-Thesalvages .. . ... . 227
19
 CHAPTER X
ALTITUDES
PAGE
A Table of Heights-Among the Mountains-Fagal-Pe11ha
d'dguia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .247

CLIMATX
Climatic Situation-Humidity- Northeast Trade-Wind-The
Leste-Sand from the Desert of Sahara-Havoc wrought
by the Leste-Rain-Clouds-Air-Warnirig to the Zn-
valid-The Story of an In'vnJid-Mr. Ootoman's Identity
-Health, and how to keep it-List of Physicians. i n
Madeira in 1900 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 263
 From a miniature, engravi~lga of which are reproauced
in the manuscript of "The Discovery of Guinea," 1448 ; i n
"The Life OF Prince Eenry," 18681 nnd i n "The Story of
Portugal," 1895.

A PEBBLYBEACH. . . . . . . . . . . . .opposite 33
AMONG . .
T ~ &IOUNTAIN-PEAKY
E . . . . . . l1 34
THE FATHERAXD MOTHEROF PRINCEHENRY. . 42
From recumbent statues over their tomb in the Coilvent
of Batallin, Portugal.

A SECTION
OF TEE MEDICIMAP . . . . . . . " 61
From the Laurentian Portulano, dated 1361, and contaiu-
ing nn outline in the central left-baud section of a group of
ialancls now lcuomll us the Nndeirns.

PRINCEHENRY. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 'c 52
From n titntue over nn entrance to the monastery at Belem,
Portugal.
 Ziet of PLI~u~tcatfone
to UoIume I f
PAGE
ZARGO'ST o m . . . . . . . . . . . . . . opposite 67
NATIVECHILDRENBATHING. . . . . . . . . U 89
PANOEAXA OF FUNCHAL (in four sections) . . . . " 109
Loo Rocrr FORTAND TECE NET BREAKWATER. . . 117
AND CITY FRONT.
THB LANDING-PLACE . . . . l' 118
THE RGDB . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U 122
. . . . . . . . . . . . . 'c
TEE BASKET-CAR 125
THE EVER-COB~L~D STREET . . . . . . . . . " 129
A N A ~ R O WSTREET . . . .
. . . . . . . . [l 130
THE CATHEDRAL . . . . . . . . . . . . . 133
A PRIVATE RESIDENCE . . . . . . . . . . a 134
THE CAXRO. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . U 137
THE &~ARITIME SIGNAL-TOWER. . . . . . . . U 150
TEE NEW HOTEL. . . . . . . . . . . . . '[ 163
MAP OS THE CITY . . . . . . . . . . . . 'l 164
RUNNINGSLEDGE AND MOUNT RAILNAY . . . . " 167
A VALLEYOF THE INTERIOR . . . . . . . . . " 171
M o r n ~ n m n ~ ~.x c.t . . . . . . . . . . . X 174
.A HOTELTENNIS-COURT . . . . . . . . . . U 182
A GLIMPSEIX TIIE NEWPUBLICGARDENS . . . . l' 188
PALACIODE Sbo LOUREN?~.WHERE THE GOVERNOR

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
D'CVELLS [l l91
. .
A PUBLICFOUNTAIN . . . . . . . . . . " 195
GARDENS.
AND NEW PUBLIC
THE OPERA-ROUSE . " 199
Loo ROCKFORTBY MOONLIGIIT. . . . . . . " 202
A N A T I OF~ CALI~TA. . . . . . . . . . . 'l 214
E c o ~ o mOF SPACE. . . . . . . . . . . . " 218
CABOGIRXO . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . " 235
22
 %fet of PIluetratione to WoIutne 1
PAGE
. . . . . . . . . . . . . .opposite 236
CACTIPLANTS
DELGADAFROM
PONTA JOR~E. . . . . . . l' 239
 part I
81
Cbe 913ietqr~of the R)abefrae
 CHAPTER I
THE DISOOVERY OF MADEIRA

oilzance tn ntiiatorq,--It was ill Eng-

land, in the reign of King Edward
III., that one .Robert h Machia, a
noble of second degree, fell desperately ill love
with A i ~ n ad'ArfFet, daughter of a iloblemaxl of
superior railk. And Anna did not spurn the
addresses of Machin, though slie had said "11ay ''
to many a suitor of more exalted statioa. But,
as the fortunate lover was yet so unfortunate as
to live ill the days of the fendal system, 11e was
obliged to court his lady in secret, for the law of
the land proclaimed that every man slzould marry
within his raillc and station.
The Cruel d'Arfet.--The parental d7Arfet had
certdn plalls for hi8 daughter's future which
caused him to watcli over her behavionr with
circnmspectioll. Anna grew heart-siclc 11nder
27
 $be Zanb of the 'UJtne
the vigilant surveillance to which she was snb-
jected, and found it difficult to conceal her
growing l~assionfor young Machill fiom the
perception of her father, who was of a cruelly
suspicious nature.
The Lovers' Tryst,-One moonlit night the
ever-watchful nobleman saw his daughter steal
forth fiom home ; he secretly followed her to the
edge of a forest, where she was met by Machin.
At sight of his Iadylove the young man im-
~rudentlyfell u~ponhis knees and began to plead
with her to fly the country with him. This she
consented to do. Her father, who had cronched
in concealment behind some ~l~rnbbei-y near by
and had overheard the lover's plan to thwart his
will and tho law of the land, made haste to
summon his retainers and t o scize his would-be
son-ill-law.
Machin's Imprisonment.-IIe effected the cap-
ture of Robert &. Machia, whom he caused to be
cast into a dungeon.
EIe then proceeded to carry into exectztion his
own plans for his daughter'sefutnre.
Anna's Forced Marriage.-A few days after
Machia's imprisonment, he ~ummoneda rejected
28
suitor, a certain 1zoblema-11whom Anna despised,
but who was of equal raillr with d'Arfet himself
With this iiobleman d'Arfet forced his daughter
to be joiiled in wedlock, and the unwilling bride
was pitilessly collveyed afar to her lzusballd's
castle. Then, as ancient chroniclers say, poor
Anna, who was fair and delicate as a new-blown
rose and in character queenly a i d incomparable,
drooped and faded.
Nachin's Escape.-But true love, whicli is never
daniited, ca~zrsedRobert a Macbin t o keep a good
1-1eal.t behind his p~isonbars. H e did not pine
and die in the dungeon, as his ux~llappyladylovc
had feared that be miglzt, but, after many unsuc-
cessftll attempts at escape, he at leilgth regained
his freedom. He made his way, by dint of great
stealth and caution, to the castlbwhere Anna
dwelt, contriving, in some praclen t inallner, to
send word ahead and notify her of his al>proacl~.
When she learned of her long-lost loyer's conling
die went secretly f o ~ ifrom
l ~ her husband's castle
to meet him. 011, the joy of that meeting l A n d
.were ever lovers re~ditedafter a more lieart-rend-
ing separation ?
&
' h'e Elopement,-Though it was a bleak, wild
20
 Che Xanb of the llIRiite
night, Robert and Anna fied without delay to the
seaport of Bristol, where a vessel, secured by a
'friead of Robert's, lay awaitisg their arrival.
Shortly after the elopers h~zrriedaboard the ship
set sail, it being Macllin's plan t o cross the Eng-
lish Chalmel and land in France.
But ere the ship had gotten well under way a
storm arose, &d broke with soddei~nessand ftiry
upon t l ~ cwater. Machin's vessel was swept fill.
out of its course; for two weeks it continued
to be buffeted about in the midst of the terrible
tempest.
The Discovery of Madeira.-At last, ahead
through the fog and mist, there appeared, loom-
ing 1111 in the dim dista1ice, ail apparently endless
chain of mountains which seemed to rise directly
out of the sea. The crew of the storm-tossed
vessel, worn out with danger and fatigue, looked
on this new a i d unknown land with superstitious
awe. But Robert B Machill, who had, by this
time, once more acquired complete control of his
vessel,-the storm having abated,-ordered the
course towards the mysteridus mountains t o be
pursued.
Sailing on through the fog, the sea-weary and
30
almost famine-stricken voyagers came iu full
view of a beautiful forest-covered island ; for the
sun of a sudden shoile brightly, and changed the
pha~itom-greyrange of eminences to a living-
green lr~ountainisle. As the ship drew more and
more under the lee of the land the white-caps
subsiclcd into lateral swells and the wind was no
longer felt.
The ship cast anchor off a pebbly beach which
glittered silvery ill the s~ullight. There the lovers
landed, accompaaied by their trusty crew. They
all took up their abode in a beantif111 sheltered
valley near the shore.
The Honeymoon.-Here for a while they lived
happily. No reptiles or four-footed ailimzlls were
t o be s e e i ~ and
, ~ consequeiltly there was no fear
of clisturbailce from wild denizens of the foreat.
The air was fillcd with the songs of couatless
birds and the bum of insect life. Fruits hung
in great clnstera froin every other tree, a i ~ dhoney
with a floral perfi~mcwas to be found in many an
old tree-truak and in the roclzy caverns. Many
-

l Chapter XXIV., Animals; Chapter XXVII., There are

no Snakes,
33
fib11 and birds vr-crc found that f~~imishcd tlle rilost
~Inirityand nutritious food, and parties were or-
ganized firr exploring the ac1j:iccnt district, It
was a fitvouritc escul-sion for Nachia t o lead a
11arty at earl7 claw11 to some ap~~arently inacces-
f;il)lemountain-ywk, and later in the day to return
and regale i\nna with a descriptio~~ of their ad-
ventures. Then the lovers made ficcl~zentcscnr-
hion6 together, awar from their trusty follo\vcl-s
and into the ~ e c l u ~ i oofn the forefit.
Anna thought little of the Ilardships through
which dne had passed in her joy at being with
her lover in R U C ~a11 eartlt~lyparadise. They
g i v e little or no heed to the future, until olle
morning the fizgitives awoke to find the great
farest-trees swaying to the blast of a mighty
tempest. The rain came down in torrents, and
Mac.hin, fearing for the safety of the vessel which
had beer1 but lightly anchored near the beach,
took m e r a l of his crew anif made his way to the
place of landing. A great cry of dismay arose
when they found no trace of their trusty ship.
It had disappeared and ttlken st number of their
comrades who had been staying aboard ovel-liight.
BIaehin and his followera, returned to their lea@
34
lioillc to impart the disti*essingnews to tliose wlzo
were to ehnro their misery. But ,z hope was still
ol~orishcdthat when the violence of the storm
abated L110 ship ~niglit1-ct~r11. The rain ceased,
ilic tlinnclcs rolled away, the liglztning flashes
gavo ~ l a c oto n aunbnrst in the heavens, the
son&-birds lil'tccl a11 tlieis praises that thc storm
.uvtls 1)asscct ; but Ibc fugitives conld espy 110 ob-
jcot seaward vhicli inigllt provc to bc tllo retnrn-
ing ~ l ip.i Now 1h:lt all liic~~ils of ~lcl)arI,r11*eFrom
t b o i6.;laiid wcro cut Q& s blaelc clrcad of passing
I1113 rc!l~~ninclcr of tbeir livcs in lliis ir?lanclvastness
tnvay .Dol~ltlio hauu2,s of illell ~ u I - L ~ c C L thei~-pre-
vious c011ic?31t to dirt dcq~t~.ir.This ~11looliecl-lbr
calaniit y c:~,tnea8 ,z fatt~lblow to hliiln cl'Ainfct.
'I'llu incxuorics of Iicr former suflcring~iof mitlcl t~nd
body aild. of 11011111*c,rontmisSoi~tizneprcyccl upon
Ilcr ; m~consoioz~sly sllc grow daily moro Scoblc.
12; wns t l ~ csevcxitl~clay after their lt~l~cling on
the boulztiSu1 islailcl. All nsturo ~ccincclrcjoic:ing,
and tlio (lt~l~lc-gr-ccn lcavce, duslicil. licro alld theso
wit11 goltlolx mni~sllil~c,~'zzstlcil in tho snmmor
l)~~ce?x~,.Iiobc~tttll(1 A i ~ i mw:i~~clcrocll~ttil(l-i~i-
luaiitl. by Illu tiiclo OSL: i+il,plingi*ivulctiu $110 l'olb-
1 , :lpc)r idle zno~ncn L 111oy hrgot in each other's
r, -4 87
 Uhe Pnnb of tbe Ulline
society the stormy scenes through which they
had so lately passed and the rnoaotono~~s existeilce
which the future seemed to have in store for tllem.
lildeed, Ailaa was for the momeilt l~appy,and
Robert's strong arm stole asonnd her waist; and
there it remained, for Anna of a sudden had grown
weary and deathly pale. Fondly and gently he
placed her oil the mossy bank and in .great alaisin
knelt beside her, bathing her si~owytcmples wit11
water fioin the rivullet.
Anna dlArfet's Death.-But Robert found, to
his anguish, that he coulcl not revive poor Alllla ;
she murmured a few falteriag words of ~lndyiag
affection a i d expired in the arms of her clistractecl
lover.
So deeply afflicted was Robert h Machill by
the loss of his lady that he fell illto a cpiclc
decline and spent all his time i11 erecting a
memorial to her memory.
Machin's Death.-Feeling that his end was near,
he requested his friends to place his remaiils ill
the same grave with the body of Anaa, a i d fiva
days afte; her death he also cxpired.
The Grave of the Lovers.-His dying request
was complied with, and beside the grave thora
38
was erected a r~ldelycollstructed wooden cross,
upoll -vvhicli was inscribed a brief history of the
events here recorded. The inscriptioii upon the
cross concluded with the 1.equest that t11e llcxt
Christians who might visit the spot in time t o
come would erect a church to the memory of the
unfortuaate lovers.
Bnt the island wliere the lovers lay buried
was not destiilecl to be tlie first revisited of that
group now Irno-vv1l as tlie Madeiras.
('Glance southward through the haze, and mark
That shadowy %lancl floating dark
Amid the seas serene.
It seems some fair enchanter1 isle
Lilre that which saw Miranda smile
T,Then Ariel sung unseen."
-'lP~rto Santo," n poem, by Jarnes D. Burns.
THE DI8COVER.P AND SETTLEMENT O F PORT0
SANTO AND THE P,EDISCOVERY O F NADEIRA

be Crew eacaye bp Sea, but lanb itz

ahica, wbere t'bep are lnabe %kve$,
-And now that their leacler, Robcrt
Machin, had passed into the world beyond, the
fugitives begail t,o betl~illlcthemselves as to how
they could escape fro111their islagd prison. There
are lneily valnied %ccounts as to the mailner i a
tvhich they left the island. Possibly they bad
carcf~~llypreserved some small boat in which they
managed to get away, but this does not seem
i i I t is more probable that, in their des-
peration, they contrived to build some kind of a
craft. I11 any case, thcy embarked, ancl in time
came in sight of tlie main-land of Africa. Wit11
great rejoicing they drew up to the shore pnd
landed. But a band of natives took them captive
and carried them inland. They had landed on
the coast of Barbary, and were taken to Morocco,
where they were made slaves.
40
 At this time, several accouilts state, the
wretched ft~gitives inet their compailioils who
had also been reduced to slavery by the Moors.
It ~cemcdstrange that the ship which was blow11
seaward fro111 Madeira by the te~npestshould
bring its occupaats to the same end as those
otllers of' its crew who subsccyueatly crossed the
sea in another craft.
Morales hears of the New Island.-In slavery
tl~eiradventures in the far-off island formed the
priacipal topic of their conversation, and the re-
innl.lcable evcilta which were frequeatly reconilted
were liste~icd to eagerly by a fellow-slave, a
Spai~iardi~arnedJ u a n de Morales, a seaman and
celcbi~a2.cclpilot of the time. Morales treasured
all the ~lcwshe Beard of this far-off and hitherto
uuknowil land, and, when he was granted his
liberty by tile iatcrveation of the 8panish au-
1,horities (for 116 was a highly prized seamail in
the government service), he sta~tedfor 110111e with
tlm resolve to tell his sovercigil of the new coua-
try wllicll might be ~efiuncland made a Spailisli
province. But as he was retunling the ship
aboard which he had talcea passage was captured,
OR t l ~ ccoasl; of Algarvo, by Jogo Gongalvez, the
41
 l23
I&he Zanb of tbe Wine
great Portuguese explorer and aa~igator;who is
better known to fame by his snraame, 2argo.l
Zargo learns Morales's Secret.-Now, Zargo was
a reader of men, and it was but a short time erc
he learned Morales's secret ancl the story of Robert
i Macl~iaand Anna, d'Arfet and t l ~ eisland they
had discovered. On returning to Lisbon, Zargo
speedily conveyed the news of the new discovery
to Prince H e i ~ r y . ~The prince, who had an iu-
satiable thirst for discovery, submitted all this
informatio~labout the new island to the attention
of his father, the king, Don1 Jog0 I., who imme-
diately ordered an expedition to start in sca~*ch
of this newly 1-eporteclisland. The corn~nzznclof
this expedition was given to Zargo, wit11 a view

He was so named, certain cllroniclers say, because he hnil

lost an eye in a battle against the Moors. (The translation
of the word Zargo is "squint-eyed.") This illustrates tlia
old-time fondness of the Portuguese for nicknames, which, to
this day, is a very evident weakness among them.
" Prince Henry, historically surnamed Henry the Nnvi-
gator, was born in the year 1394. H e was the fourth son of
Philippa, Queen of Portugal (daughter of John of Gaunt),
and of John I., the brave and wise king under whose reign
Portugal began to be most prosperous.
42
 KING JOXO I. QUEEN P H I L I P P A .
F R O M KFCI;.VBBNT S T A T I , B L"\.EX
~ T H E I R TOUT9 IN T H E I O N V R E T OF
P A T H E H *NI) \ t o r ~ l i l l(>P i . H I . i ( l ~ HESKY.
B A T A I I I X . POKTt'tiAI..
t o tlic i~ccliscoveryof t11e uznhlown land beyond
Lhc 'sea.
Zargo sets forth t o discover.-Taking Morales
(who, as 11as been said, was ail cxperienceil pilot)
and a nzunbor of veterail seamea, Zargo set sail.
Discovery and Naming of Porto Santo.-After
111ucll bcatilng about at sea, a m011iitai1101is isle
was :%l last discovci*ed in the far distance. This
waR -roll All-8aints'-Day of the year 1415. In
lio~lourof Z;ho clthy on wl~icllthis discovery mas
iil;tilo, Zwgo imined the islaild Porto Santa.'"
12cncc?,Pollto Sailto was tlie first island of that
iur;uilar group, now kuowli as tllc Madeiras, to be
oljicinlly discovered. It was settled almost im-
mcdiutcly afiics this cliecovesy, aild Bartholomeu
Por.efi;trello,n former Italian see-captain irz the
Por*tng~zosc service, was made governor over the
early settlers.
The aovernors of Porto Santa.-The governorship
of Porto Sant;o afterwards became an inheritance
in thc Perestrello family for many geizerations.
7'110 ~ o ofb (;l.arcia pe~~estuello
iaherited tlie office
afic?rIlia ftithcr was bclieaded for the murder of
his rn~t~S.lc~~.
.-..---U--
' Portuguese, meaning Port of Saints.
46
 I
11 these early days Englisl~and Freach pri-
vateers and also Moors made fieq~zcntattacks
up011 the Prophetas, as the Porto Sailto people
were called. There were three great raids bcfore
the fifth governorship. .On one occasioil English
privateers endeavoured to laild on the Deserta
Grailde,l but were driven back to their ship by
a number of native fishermen who hurled great
roclrs upon them from above.
The New Portuguese Colony.--Early in the first
goverilor's admiaistratioa the settlers bccanle
~ert11sbedby the steady appearauce in the west
of n dark, shadowy mass, which they believed to
be the mouth of hell. For fully a year 110 oile
had snficieat courage to solve the mystery.
Zargo's Second Expedition.-But Zargo was not
collteilt with his success in the discovery of Porto
Santo. I-Ie searched the island everywhere for
the "legeadary " trace of Robest Machin and
Ama d'brfet, but coullcl find nothing. He, there-
foso, came to the collclusioll that there must be
another islsllld yet undiscovered, and he 'commu-
nicated his views to the prince, by whose order
he fitted out allotlies expeditioil and set sail from
Chapter IX,, The Desertas.
46
.Algarve June l., 1419, stoppiag at Porto Ballto
e72, ~ ~ o uto t e t,hc (lark, ahadowy lnass in the west.
Rediscovery and Naming of Madeira.-And t11e11
it wnu l,h:~tlie tli~covored the lovcly 'L Ilha do
M.:~clcii-t~,," or ri;kr7/,1iof V o o d , w11ich 11c so named
oil acc!o aut, of' the proli~sionof ti mbcr tllat covered
it, C : L I Z H ~ I I i110
~ clonda to ~ e t t l o~LUCZproduce the
clklct; wllicll l~:d. ~11;~llron tllc r~crvcaof the Porto
Hant,o pcxq~lo. Wllcxl the sllil~had arrived withill
H C V C ~ : L ~i n i l c ~OC tllc? coaat, Zargo ordered t11e
hc!lm i.ui*ncil; HO ihcy skirtcc2 the c o n ~ tat this
cl id.cnlr:o.
Ponta do 860 Louren90.-At thc poillt wllcre the
C'01lYHC Of' t11(? ~llil) WlL8 C!ll3,ll$?J.!(~,
111~~:lRt~1'11 OX-
tr1c\lrlit,y ol' 2;hc irjlnrlcl, Zargo nalllcd :h great; 'ocliy
l)lv),jcolIon in thr: ~c:b c' PonCa c10 Silo Loul.enqo,"
in Ilonour of orlc of tha coinl)nuio~s 011 tho voyagc
\v110 l~orc1,llc latI,oi8 family name? The gl1eat
11lourlt:~ilz-chuinIiStoil its sumrnita li)rbidclingly
ixlt,o t$u ctlouilw, l~~lil mighty clills roao skyward
tit t110 W:IZ,OIJM ~'dgo. A.ppi-o:wl~i~~g ~ ~ c ~ l rrollii~g
cr,
tltncts of' fo;*a~t;J i l ~ l i lwcro vi~iblc,ailil spl:i8hiug
and s11arliling water-falls glistelled among the
luxuriant gro~vthsof trees and plaats. As cvcn-
ing approached the ship wtered a, small bay,
which Zargo felt' assul.ed must be the scene of
the island romance. Morales felt equally coufi-
dent. That night Zargo and some ofhis followers
vent ashorc with torches, but could find no trace
of that for which they were in search. So they
returned aboard ship and went asl~oreag&in the
following morniag. A s tlmy wallcecl up t l ~ cbeach
Zargo was inspi~edby the idea tllat it was here
that, years gone by, Anna dJArfetand her unfor-
tunate lover had lailded after their pcribus voyage.
The Grave of the Lovers is discovered,-dftor a
brief search they found an old, vine-covered
cross, and beside it a high n i o ~ u ~overgrown
d by
tall, wavy grass. Up011 the cross was, in rude
inscription, a brief llistory of the a4ventrzres and
death of Robert B Mschin' ancl Alms d'~kr.fet;.
When Zargo rincl the request engravccl upon the
cross,-that ally Christialls who might acttlc
there at a f~lturetime wonld build a church oil
the spot of burial,-he was greatly moved,
Zargo builds a Chapel to the Memory of the Pre-
discoverers.-over the grave of Robcrt a i ~ dAllns
48
 -- *.
x.dicl Y.p, fms tho hwentian PBttulam, datcl1351, . a d containing
.D-n-in* -1.lt-h~d meetion ofa l ~ w of
p island. now knowourhe n0dcir.s.
a cl~apel' was erected, which existed niitil the
early part of the present ceatary, and which l ~ a s
since been rebuilt. Wit.hill the cl~al>elis preserved
a miiliature cross of cedar-wood, said to have
been madc fi~ompieces of the cross wl-licll first
marked the spot. Tbe grassy valley and the vil-
lage that graclually grew arouad the chapel are
both called Macl~ico,~ in memory of Robert B
Machill.
The Medici ~ap.-buring the years 1317-1351
several Portuguese vessels, piloted by Italians,
visited tlle Azores and the Cal~al*ies; and it seems
that they must also have touched at the Madeiras,
for this island group, together with those first
named, is rong11ly outlined up011 a cllart 1;cno~vn
as the Medici Map, made ill 1351, and now in
the posse~sionof the Laurentian library i11 Flor-
ence.
111 Mr. R. H. Major's work, '(.The Life of
P1.ince TIeni*yof Portugal, suraamed the Navi-
gator,') published i a London in t j ~ eyear 1868,
there is all excellellt copy of this map, and a
copy is to be seen in the British
l)l~otogral~lled
Chapter VIII., Capella of Nosso Senhor do Milagrea.
a Chapter VIII., Machico.
61
 7Jbe 2Lanbl of the Wlitje
Museum. The portioli of the inap 011 wl~ichthe
Madeiras arc shown is here rel~rod~zccd.
It was about the latter part of the year 1846
that Madeira was visited by Robert h Machin.
And, as most of thc historians of the fourteenth
ceat~zryagree that the exisbcllcc of the Mczdeiras
v a s first made Bllowl~t o Zargo through the news
of the romantic tragedy of Machin, the chart
drawn in 1351 must have becil lost for a while,
if it was not a forgery, or at least 11ave escaped
the notice of the P o r t u g ~ ~ e saz~thwities
e and of
Prince Henry, until after thc oEcid discovery
of the islands by Zargo.
Life of Prince Henry the Navigator.-Thc eini-
neilt explorer rctumed to his prince with a ft111
report of his discovery of the great Mndciran Isle.
The noble EIenry was overjoyed a t the izews. It
was the first real victory wl~ichhc had gained
over his many political eaeinies, who atronrzonsly
ol)posed his expe~iditureof moacy in tbo cguip-
meilt of fruitless exploring c x p e d i t i o ~ ~ s . ~
l Prince ~ e n wasr Grmd
~ Master of " The Military Order
of Christ" (see Chapter XTI. for a description of this organi-
zation), and from the plentiful revenue received into its
treasury for publio use he gathered the necessnry funds for
62
 PRINCE H E N R Y .
h S T A T I I ~OVaR A N E N T R A N C E 7'0 TIER
MONASTLKY AT BELBM, PORTVGAL.
 Thc l~l~incc?, who l ~ a dspent thc first part of his
call1y mnallood in lcadillg oxpcditiona againat the
Moors, had wllile in Morocco acq~zircdik lovc for
travol, E L ~ V C ~ I ~ I . Iancl
~ ' C , ~ ~ B C O V C I ' Y , SO when 110
rct~u-llctlhon~ct,llttviilg lrlaclu n, ~varthyrecord for
1liln~clSin b:tCtlc, ha llnd alrcarly rcsolvcd to put
liis r~cwlySozzntl, in2,011cat;to n goocl nsc. In :fur-
Idir:~~:~ucc?
of llliti i~itclltiollho llutl ~ ~ ~ ~ L b l11iin- i~ll~d.
ticlf in 1,llcold, soutllorn 1wovinc:c of Illgarvc, Pop-
Izrgcd, oval* .vvliic?hI l i ~littl~ci* 1n:lilo liinz govcrn01*.
,1Ir:1*o, on 1,110 i)roulonto~~y of Sc~gres,lzo 11acl
(?rcotcd un obsarvolory niiil guthovcd about him
t 110 luttding ~ ~ ~ t ~ i Gg X~~ )t ~oO ~r C~~uld I ~, R a~t1*0110111c?r~
,
01' 1llo (lay, who w01*lced~111Lldol*l l i ~ cliroetiozr, Ancl
Mt~tloiilaWLLR t l ~ oprii~co's [!rat notoworthy dis-
covclhy!
I l o was nal; long in lbnising 1;hc f~lnclef i r tl~c?
fitting urzt of new oxl~cclitioxzto his IictLawo
i~Xancl, TXI 1420 a colo~lizirlgexpadition, l~cs~tlccl

l110 IiLlilig ouL uP his oxpodiliari8. Ib wnEl 1118 pnl;riol;id nliil

unlorprisin,q plan, in bbo cnrryi~igout of wl~ichha wna during
his lifutimo i n tb mcnsuro 8uocaasfZ11,to oslabli~l~ tho I)OWOF 011
l'orLugnl ilk Lilo St~rf,h~?r~no~~t
qunrlurs of f,lla u~llciiuwnworld,
nllc1 tbur~l o Lailtl fin llor n univarf~nlr ~ t ~ o ~ ~ gn cl hns Eng-
land now ~OOEIORSUM.
6U
 Cbe Xanb of tbe U i n e
by Zal-go, Tristam V a z Teixeyrn (old spelling,
see Cl~apterIII., Distinguished Madei~lanColo-
nists, Teixeira), and Bartl~olomcn Perestrello,
was sent thither. '
Porto Santo's First Governor.-As stated in the
lwevions chapter, Perestrello, an Italian sea-cap-
tail1 in the Port~zgneseservice, was a~poiiltcd
governor over the early settlers of Porto Sailto.

Courtship of Colurnbus.--The great Cl~ristopl~e~-

Colnmbus, while attending a 1.cligioizs coreinoily
ill the chapel of thc convent of A11 saints, a t

Lisbon, saw for the first time and becallno en-

tranced with the beauty of a certain maiden, to
vholn he sooil secured an introduction. Shc was
the daughter of Bast'ilolomen Perestrello, and had
beell sent to complete her educatioa at the LisX~ou
convent.
The laws of that iizstitutioil prohibited its in-
mates from receiving the attentions of the atomer
sex. So Colnmbus was obliged to biclo tlio iVct;urn
of 31eaina1 Perestrello to her islallcl home, t o
Menina, the Portuguese for infant or child, applies to all
unmarried women, and is prefaced to the woman's nama in
place of Miss. See Chapter XIV., last paragraph pr~codiug
Good Manners."
56
which he followcd and t h a e wooed the fair lady.
I-Icr Satlicr, the governor, had died in 1467, leav-
ing his scconci wife, Isabelln Mofiiz, to care for
their 0 1 3 1 ~da~zgl~tcr, Philipya Mo'iiz.
Oolumbus weds Perestrello's Daughter.-Christo-
l~hcr,bcii~ga gallaut gentlemal~,pE court1y grace
and Bcsriag, won tho hcart of the lady of' his
c1ioice;:~nd marricd her in the year 14-78.
Colurnbus a Resident in the Madeiras,-Tile co~zple
M ~ ) c ~ . Z I ; tlleir cwly ~narl'iedlife first ill Porto Santol
and later in Mndeirn. During this time, Po1.t~-
guosa histol*y says, Uolumbns made several voy-
:~g:.csto t11c Guinea Coast.
.If; is rc?latcd that, in 1436, a Biscayan vessel
clrirhccl stolm-battered into P~~ilchal Bay ; ailcl that
it^ crow, who WCI'C fi~nliilostriclc~11to n state of
zlttcv l~clj~lcssnc,gs, wcrc talccii ashore and cared
for by Colnrnb~zs. But so ellfeeblecl had they be-
c!omu Ijy their ~~Ireri13gs and privations that efforts

V t acorns nn odcl nnd, at tlio salno time, a romantic coinci-

donco tllnl Colurnbus lirst Inet t l ~ olady who became his wife
in lllo olittpol of A11 St~inLs,nnd that they lived, when first
~nnrriod,in tho Islnnd of tlie Port of Saints, so called in
l~onourof ils tiiscovcry on All-hints'-Day.
 C'he Zanb of tke Ulline
to restore them to health were in vain, and, one
after another, they all expired.
A Coincidence that led to the Discovery of America.
-111 t o l r e ~of~ his appreciatioii of the kiildilesscs
rendered to himself and his comrade^, the dying
pilot bequeathed to Colurnbus his various ellarts
and papers. The alert explorer found these to
contain much i~~formatioa coi~eerilivgforciga and
little-how11 laads, together with valuablc hiuts
as to the best modes of pl.ocedure in the quest
for ~ulknownterritory. It was fiom a atucly of
these charts and papers, many 11istol.ians believej
that Colnmbus was led to the coi~elusioilthat
there existed laild beyoild tlic w e s t e ~ O~ Cl C ~ I ~ . ~
Columbus's House.-111 the Rna Dircito there
stood, until very recently, a, house in which tlicl*e
is but little doubt that Colnmbus had his rcai-
dence. It was built originally by 0110 Jeaii
d'Esmenaut, a, Fleiniag, who, tradition says,
spent much time with Colunibus in F~~nclial.
The Duke de Veragua.-Whea the D~zlce de
Veragua and his family visited tke United States
Dr. Gaspar Fructuoso was one of the supporters of this
theory, and his argument in "As Snudndes da Torm," his
comprehensive work written in 1590, i8 able nnd convincing.
68
A WINDOW IN T H E rUNCHAL RESIDENCE OF
CHRISTOPHER COLUMBUS.
in 1893, tbo writer lnecarne quitc well acqzlainted
wit11 the son, thcrl a hai~dsornoled about fourteen
years of ago. I-Iis ntlmc was Cristobal Colon y
Aguilcre, or, Anglicised, Chriatolnl~erColuinbus-
Aguilcre.
As it; will donbl;lcsa bo rccallcd, for t1:c Ameri-
can lwess was ovcr 1.eitcrating thc h c t during tlie
l)criocl of the Columbus Sainily'a aojourn in this
country, this aaine Chilistophcr Coltzmbus, the
1)rcsec"tDukc of Veragnn's 8013, ia ilie dircct malc
dcsceizclant of thc old-time Gclloeso AC~-captaii~,
liusbai~dof' Govenlor ~cl*oatl~clld'*i duoghtcYand
discovcrc~of the Amcrican Contiu cut, Christophcr
Colurnbus.
Christopher Dolumbus-$guilere.-Bclow is Lhc
sig~~atun~c of Lho l)itcecizl; Cllri~t~l)licr
CO~L~~~UM,
as hc wroto il; ill tho author's t~11togi*al)l1 album :

rl'llc Ycragaa fiunily livc in 8l)ain, a11d the

Dnlio do Vci*agnl~ haa lulldad eatatca in the monn-
tniatj aoilze XIOLI~A' jozurncy Doin Madrid, Sinco
t11o family hnvo mol; witlr financial roversea they
11avo q ~ c nmost
t of t110ir titno 011 those oslate~,
1.-4 a1
 &be 'aanb of the llllline
The dulre a i ~ dduchess have two children,-
the son above melltioned and a daughter wlio was
married about seven years ago. Aguilere is tlie
family name of the Duclless of Veragaa.

Let us now retnril to Zargo and his expedition.

It was about J ~ u l e15 that Zargo re-embarlced on
a further tour of exploration. H e found t h a t he
could note the conformation of the coast aiorc
caref~~llyby eateriag a row-boat and following in
the wake of theR vessel.
Discovery and Naming of Porto do Seixo.-I&?
continued westward uatil he came t o a place
where a aitmber of springs of fiesh water poul-cd
fiom a rock into the sca. EIe and his garty laaded
and regaled themselves by long and deep libatioils
fiom this sparlding fluid, and Zargo named the
place Porto do Seixo. To-day this place is highly
renowned for the purity of its watcr, wllich is
carried to Sallta Cruz.
The explorers re-entered their small boats a n d
soon came to anotller inlet fionted by a fille, 013~11
beach. A number of old trees had been blown
down by the violence of some recent wind-storm,
@d Zargo caused a cross to be made of a, couple
62
of thc trces and sct uprigl~t. I-Ie tliea .named the
place Santa Cruz.
T111zs thcy l)rocccdcd, paddling ailoli over the
quiet summer sea; and sometiines stopping to
name a bay, a mountain, or a river. Oilce they
were obligcd to fiail around a 1)recipitous cape,
lkom wllich a glaat floolr: of tern soared and flew
about tlicm, seemingly delighted at their ;~1311roach,
and uttel*ly fc~earless,for tlzcy perched up011 the
boats and up011 the navigators. Zargo nained
tlzis 1)roinincnccCabo do Garnj30 (Cape of Tern).
T l ~ eexplorers weat ashorc on the fartlzcr side
of thc calm and ~ r ~ ~ w westwa~.cl
ded across an ex-
l)a11m oQF open, rollii~gc01111try. At a hlacq where
t l ~ cmountains ci~closcda vcrdailt valley, cxccpt
towards thc const,whic~~ was bordcred by a pebbly
beach, a i d where three rivers1 crossecl seaward,
t11o explorers pauscd. Zargo decided that this
~houldbc the site for tlzc l~riiicipalcity. EIe then
;~llcl t l ~ c ~lltilncd
~o it Fi~nchal,aitcr the rcnncl
(T~~i.rnaho)that covcrcd the ground iiz grcat lux-
nriancc in 1111 directions.
Cabo Gir&o.--011 t,hc followil~gday tlie yarty
to t,lloir l)onts and again proceeded wcst-
l*ct~z~+nc"tl
WChapt;urXVII.,Riboiros.
(is
 '(ICbe2Lanb of the lliQllne
ward for about tlirce miles. , A t tlie place where
tlley t u ~ a e dthere was a mighty precipice, ancl
this Zargo named Cc~boQ:i~*lio,l- Cc~bobeing Par-
tug~lesefor Cape, and Gi~n"obeing derivcd fiom
tlie Portuguese word g i ~ o ,"t ~ ~"-(fi*om
ni the
same 13oot as the English " gyrate").
so011 afier retunling to &Xachico, the party set
sail for tlie inother co~ultryto inalce 11111 report to
their royal mns tel., l'rince EIenry. Zargo deerncd
it expcdieilt to denude certain portions of tllc
islaad of thcir impciictra73le fol~csts,in ordel*tlmt
settlers might find clcared land whcrcoil to build
and cultivate, and he advised destroying the tim-
be^ by Arc at thc place that he had ilamecl for
settlement. It is, indecd, a misfortune that; thc
iioble prince gave his col~seiitto Zargo's plail,
f o ~as
, Portuguese hi~;t01'ytells us, tllc firc, oilcc
begun, burned Ibr rscveli years, I11 any event,
there are few treca on the island to-day, cxcept;ing
some small forests in the ii~terior.~
Cnbo Girtio 118s since been found to b0 the secolld highcsl,
sea-cliff in the world, and moro is told of it in Cliaptor IX,,
Cab0 Girfio.
a Chapter IV., Tho Beven Years' Fire; Chapter XX.,
Trees.
 C 11A. P T E Xi 1X 'l:

firgo L4 [~~tlgV)teb,--It Ivna i l a l until nf(.oxB

Msilcirrt l~stl boo11 oficiihlly xu~tda:L c!olouy
of P o I * [ ; ill
~ It ~ l ~L
Y?C~:~~1435, :),H H~ILI.I!(X ill
tllc l)llcviousc:hapt.cr,tl~ntit;l)i?gu,nl;o l)i: colollizcil.
X:u'go W U l~c ~ l i g l ~ lby ~ itl l ~ king,
o ttlltl tlll8coY O I I I I ~
~ I l i c ! nobility w c ~ ocor~i~~~ax~rlctl.
l ~ l o o t lol' I)y 1,110
Icing 1,o rc!l)air to Mt~ilci~tutmd thc?zlu l o nlt~~*l'y
Z;ulgo'n l,lllv!c daugl\tc!r.a. JJa~g,rog ~ ~ n rin l t ~Lllu
rlc!w i~lalxil wctrc\ lllndo to illo ~~cvv'ly ~vct(ld~\cI
cou ~)lcs, arrtl. I%;urgowtts tqq)oinZ;cd~ O V C ? ~ I I OOSI +1,110
ir~luuil,whiol~position 110 occul~iedl i ) v fbrty yciu1st
.L\ uuin1,cr' of iho Icadi~~g St~milic?~ in l!'a~lcllala1.o
tlc3~~!i!lldmi,t3of' %;a~$ro'a ~ 1 1 03nnunliacl.
cd~~ig,rlli;~l~~
t,hc no1)lomon.
Whore Zargo is buried,-Ztl,l1go"s rlolllni~lrr 1~1'0
iutowccl. in tllc clzur'ch ucljaccllt 1;o t l ~ oSanlu Clrula
 Che Xanb of tbe TiUline
old, crumbling, deserted chapel, tlle Clial~elof
Santa Catarina, which was erected by Scill~ora
Gon~alvez,the wife of Zargo.
Adam and Eve.-The first badeiran-born chil-
dren were twins, to whoin the names of Adanz
and Eve were given. They were the oEq~ringof
the wife of one Go11r;allo Byres Ferreisa. Femeira
was one of the cornpailions of Zargo whcll that
explorer discovered Madeira, a ~ l dhe snbseq~~ently
took his wife to Funcllal.
Colonization of Madeira.-At first Madeira had
only a few straggliilg settlers, but by 1453 the
new islancl had attracted the attention of tho
Xwopean colollizing conntries to sncli an er;t;ent
that people begail to pour in from Spain, Italy,
and EIolland. Moors also came, and Ncgro slalves
escaped thither from Afiicn and from the Cai~aries.
Best Family Names To-day.-Vczrioas lialncs
1)rominent in the history of those times arc borne
by the Madeirails of raak of tile present clay.
A t the period of the first iizflux to the new isl:lnd
special inclncemeats to colollists of noblo bil-th
were offered by the Postug~~ese goven~rncat. By
order of the priace, the earliest high-born irnini-
grants were given large grants of land and. tho
68
assurance that their names should be recorded
and handed down to posterity.
The appeaded list is talccn from Dr. Azevedo's
edition of Gaspar Pructuoso's wor12: entitled f' As
Saudades da Terra," and contains the names of
those first noble colonists ; most of these names
exist at the pltescnt day, and are tlie leading
Family names in Madeira. Tlze ligt as appeaded
is coataii~edin the baclr of Miss Ellell M. Taylor's
comprel~easivetreatise, " Madeira : I t s Scenery
ancl how to see it."

Distinguished Madeiran Colonists.-ABREU. This family,

from Portugal, settled in Mndeirn and had grants at
the Arco da CaZAdtn, and it became n mdrgado (entail)
in 1545.
ACHIOLI,or ACUIAIOLI. 8imon Achioli, from a distinguished
Florenline family, settled in 151G.
A a n n ~ r , ~ .Fernao Alvnro cl'Agrella, in 1480.
Aaurha. Ono of the first settlers was Diogo Affonso d'Aguiar,
early in the fifteenth century.
A L ~ U Q U E ~ Q VFirst
E . mentioned in 15.70.
AI~DROMAR.Biscayan, in 1600.
ALLEMXO. Henrique Allemilo, or Henry tile German, sup-
posed to haye been a Polish prince. Large tracts of land
nt Magdaleiln were granted to him by Prince I-Ienry and
confirmed to him by D, Affonso in 1467.
69
 Che Zanb of the Wine
ALMADA. Pedro do Almada settled about the beginning of
the sixteenth century. H e was a nephew of the cele-
brated Conde de Abranches. I n recognition of good
service rendered, the King of El~glaildconferred on him
the order of the Garter in 1501.
ALMEIDA. Constan~aRodriguez cle Almeida was wife of
Joiio Gongalvez Zargo. Amador de Almeida was give11
a grant of arms in 1638.
ALVARES. Luiz Alvares dn Costa founded tlie moilnstery of
St. Francis in Funchal in 1473.
AMARAL. Francisco d'Amarzl, Macliico, 1567,
AMIL. Settled early in the fifteenth ccntn~y. I n Dom
Manoel's time JoBo Feranndez de Aniil was elltrusted
with the building of the hospital in Funclinl in 1601.
ANDRADE. Early in the fifteenth ccatury.
ANNEB. Early in the fifteenth century. Founded llie chapel
of Siio Bartliolonien in Fuachal, ilow clcmolisl~ccl.
A R A G ~ OFrom
. D. Pedro de Aragao, brother of Isitbe1 of
Castile.
ARANHA. From one of this family Becco clos Arallllns wns
named.
AEAUJO. About the end of the fifteenth century.
ARCO. From JOBO Fernalldez do Andri~dn,n Galicinu, who
took the name of Arco after fouucling the c1ial)ol of
SBo Braz at Arco de CalhOtn.
ARNXO. From William Arnolcl, wlio accompanied Pliilippa,
Queen of John I., to Portugal.
ATAIDE. 13s daughter marrierl the third cnphia of Pun-
chal.
70
ATIIOU~~UCA. One of the first settlers. Tlle parish of
Athouguin a t Cnllibln reLaills his nnme.
A ~ n r ~ sGonpnllo
. Ayrcs Berreira, one of the compai~ioasof
Znrgo, was fatlier of Adao Gongnlvez, t l ~ ofirst Mnileirn-
b o n ~boy, who 1)uilLtho original Mollnt Churclr.
Az~svicno. Fmm Mniioel Fnria do Azevedo, who was
~vroclrctlill Mntloirn 011 his voyngo to Indin from Por-
lugnl.
h z r ~ r r A r , . From EstovCo (10 Azinhnl in 1471,
1 3 ~ ~ ~ ~ r rFrom n ~ n . Messor I3nl>tistn, a Gouooso sottlor in
1480.
l Z ~ a ~ % o l'oilro x ~ . I3nrbozn niarriod 1Jonnn I-Iolenn iIc Mcn-
circs, hoiross of Gnrcin Monia, Mdrgnrlo of Cnnigo,
J ~ A J ~ J Z A D A1 H1
. 1IUi"71 Ailtoilio Bitrratlns wns the notnry of
tl~ollospilnl of F!'clnclinl,
J ~ A ~ L T ~ T C T OTWO
. so1dio1'8 ill this f~tluilydistingi~islreiftlmin-
solvo~~ i n Tangim..
13nrtnoe. 0110ol tbo carlieel colonists.
UASX~. From D. Aurlrdclo 13nyiio, I_lclchior B~ayilo,nmong
tllo first sattlors.
13re~tr~cru~elt.Fro111 Potll,o Boringnor tlc I;crnillinnn, or
Vt~loncin,n nob10 of Llia 8pnnid courl ; cnme to Ma-
doirn in 1480.
131e~n~ie~cuu~t~~. From I-Tonricyno nnd a n ~ p n (10
r 13ctLciiconrL,
Froircl~cnvnliors, who ill 1450 cnlno to Mncloirn will1
thoir 1111.clo IIi~ciotilo Boltoncourl,,nfiov 110 ~ol(1lria pns-
~cusions,l110 Ct~~lnry Tslnnds, to Priiloo IIonry.
J3onii~c~.From I l n ~ ~ rBorgcs, la a nol)lo, in 1638.
i ~ Fromo n goiltlo~r~niz OF the bad-ohambar of tlio
71
 Cbe fannb of the lllAi~te
Infante D. Luiz-Francisco Botelho de Andrade, one of
wholse sons perished at Tangier with D. Sebastian.
BRAC;.~. Joiio de Braga was one of the first colonists.
Baaxco. Diogo Branco, great benefactor to the hospital.
B~axnTio. Duarte Brandiio, in the reign of D. John 11.
Bsaz. F e m b Braz, a member of the town council in 1471.
Brcr~o. From Pedro de Brito (?eOliveira Pestana, who came
to AIarleira in 1170.
J3r.r~.From Paulo Brum, a Frenchman.
('ARRAT,. From a noble of Prince Henry's household in the
beginning of the fifteenth century.
CAIIUS. From Jean Cahus, a Frenchman, in 1580.
C'a~ar:., or CAIRO$. An old and noble name. Constantino
de Cairos of Madeira is mentioned in old records as hav-
ing been a raliant soldier in India.
CAI~DEIRA. One of the first colonists. Settled at Camara
de Lobos.
C A ~ I A I :J~ O. ~Gonplvez
O Zargo took the additional SUP
name of Da Camara, which, as well as the arms granted by
Prince Henry, was confirmed by Ring Affonso V. in 1460.
CAAIELLO.Settled in Madeira in 1471.
CAXHA. From Ruy Pires de Canha, one of the earliest col-
onists. The parish of the Canhas derives its name from
him. He built the first church there.
CARDOZO.An old Portuguese name. Nuno Fernandez
Cmdozo was 31Brgado of Gaula.
~ ~ R V A L E A L . From Lopo de Carvalhal.
CAR~AALEO. From Ant80 Alvarez de Carvalho, one of the
first settlers,
72
Cnslunzl-BRAN~O.Froin D. Guiomar do Clnstel-Brenco, who
died iu 1629, lenvivi~ign Ini.go estnto to ilia churcll ill
Rilsoirn Brnve.
( ~ n ~ ~ r ~ ~ ~ r ~ oA. ~ D.
B rJoiio
t h ~c1c0 oNoronhn
+ C)nslallo-Bmnco
distingnishcil llirnsalf ngaiilst tllo JToors.
OAATI~O.Jpro111 Diogo 3Li'ornnndez do Cnslro, in tlla reign of
D. J'oico 11.
(:l\l1~~rxo.Fro111 Ryrio n~icl Repliaol Cntnnho, Genoese;
l110 krmor 11ttil boo11 ~n~l~lniii of 1110 body-gunrd of
T?~nnciaI. of l!rntlco.
1 Froin n Gcnocao, brolller to hnilr6 CWL~Y, colebrillod
in history.
Crrnv~efl, Mnrlin do Chnvos, nil onrly sotllor in 1~171.
U r r ~ r t X o . From Joico Clidrico, n oilixoll in 1448. 0110of lho
town briilgcs b o n i ~liia
~ nnmo.
(lie~rarrto. From D. Frnlloisco Cisnoiro, of Tolorlo, cnl~litin
of 0110 oP l110 cornl~n~lios of 6ptb11ish troops wl~uCoolr poa-
~asaior~ of Mndoirn in 1584.
Cjoli:~,~ro.0110of tho firsl aolonisls.
Clo nurarn. From Alvnro Afi~nsoCo~grcin, gcnilornni; of
tllo boil-chnmbar of idio firs^ Dlilco of Bragnngn, Zlo
h i l t lllo cl~uroh of N, S, do Cdhnn, nnd diecl in
1490.
Oortlmex, B'roai Mnnoal CorLoz, of Oporlo, ill IOlli.
0 0 , Jpronl Luiz Alvnroz dn, Contn. XI0 fotlnileil Lho
aox~vanCof 850 B~~lLnoisco in Fiulchnl.
Co~rfro. 3'ounilo~ of tho ollnpol nL Sanbn Amnro.
C~~INIIA. 0110 of tllo lirst ~olllors.
T)'ll:cj~ or Tln Sd. Donnn Jonnut~ii'Jl:(;n was firs(, lady of
73
 Cbe Zattb of the WZitte
the bed-chnmber o! Queen Catherine of Bragnnga, wife
of Charles 11. of Englnnd.
D O R ~ From
~ . Esteviio Annes Cinta Doria, n Genoese noble,
in 1480.
Dsvnmro~~.From John Drummoncl, son of Sir John Drum-
mon(l, Lord of Stobhall, brother of Annnbelln, Qucen of
Robcrt 111. of Scotland. Authentic ilocumcnts prove
t h 3 this John Drummond cnmo to Mndeira in 1425,
evidently as n refugee, as it was not u11tiI on his denth-
bed that he revealed his real nnme. Up to thnt timo he
vent by the nnme of " Jo&oEscocio," or Jolln the Scoi,.
He married Bi-anca Affonso, sister of tlle first vicar of
Snntn Cruz. His ilescendants are numerous at prcsent
in .Madeira, The present hend of lho fuinily is tlio Rfldr-
gado clJArag50.
DURO. From Mailoel Mendes de Duro.
Escosan. From Pedro do Escobnr, n Spnninrd, who sat1,lctl
in Madeira in 1500.
ESMERALDO.From Jenn d'EsmennuG, n Flcming, in 1480,
who built the grent mansion whore Colulllbi~sstnyctl in
Boa do Esmernldo.
ESPINOLA. From Leonardo and Antonio ~ ~ i u oGonoeso,
l'~
of the family of Spinola, celobrntcil in llistory.
FARIA. From Braz Gil do Fadn, nn oarly s o ~ t l ononr ~
Camara do L O ~ O E I .
FAVILLA. From Ferllao Favilla, n, ~iolsleof tho court of D.
Manoel, early in the aixtee~~th centnry.
FERNANDEX. One of 1110 first names h l i ~ l sof cc)loi~i~[,~.
FERREIRA. Brnx Fcrreirn, who died in 1493.
74
~ r u ~ n s ~ l tFh ~. o m
Gollgallo Figueira, who came f ~ o mGulicia
in llia reign of Icing Bcriiaiido, Alvaro Figueira was
1110 ArsL of tlio ilnruo who came to Madeira.
F Y ( I L J ~ ~F r:oIm~ Pcdro ~ ~ ) Ade. FigueirBt~,settlecl at Machico
tuztl M ~ L I I ~Cri~z
~ L early in the sixteentll century.
2'~,onle~(;a.Froni Joi~oSalvnti, n Florentine who, concerned
ill tllo conspirncy ngtlinst the Medicis, fled to Madeira in
1478, wlioro liis rlesceiidnilt~~ are lrnown by the U R I U ~ of
B1uronc;a.
FI~AN~;A. Frorn And106ilo Frnngn, n Polisli gentle~nau,who
cemo 10 N~~ntloirn in 14Ej0. Ilis son, J O ~doOFrnil~n,
Xmilt tlio aliul~cho f N. S, cla Gmgn at the Estreito da
CnlhOtn.
Jpn,ixXo, Brorrl Z'uclro Frnzb, who was settled in Mndeirn
in 1D82.
B1tlalrr1n~.:I~roniGongnllo do Freilas, one of D. Fernnudo's
coarL ; also Sroin Jono Bodriguez do Freitas of Algarve,
who innrried Ilia widow of I-Ienrique Allem~o,the Polish
~ ~ s i n cM
o ,brgado of 1\4ngdnlena.
1"as~s. Froln Ronrau ile Frias, an Italian, whose lauds
rotain llitr nane.
Ctnr,rmrznos From n Fre~ichmnnnamed Gaillarcl.
QAMA, From Lourcnqo Vaz Perreira de Gnma.
GII,. Frorrl Vasco ail,a mnll of solno note in Funohal in
J 472. I-Iis land8 rctnill his name.
(3cxtn r,.r,rcs. From Piotro Girnldes, a Florcntine, who founcled
Ilo~pitnlnt CnlhOta in 1636.
('Joj;~, ]i'rol~~Don Aniio d t ~Aslrada, Senhor de Go& in
 Uhe %anb of the Wine
GOMEZ, Froln JO&O Gomez, one ol' Prince I-Ienry's pnges.
GONCAWEZ.From Joio Gongalvez Zargo, the discoverer of
Madeira, and also from other colonists of the nume of
Gonpalvez.
G u w ~ c ~ oFrom. Ruy Gramacho, a noble.
HENRIQUES, From D. Jolo Iienriques, third son of the
Senhor d'Alcapovas, chief hunlsrnan of D. AlTonso, D.
Joke II., and D. Manoel, lrings of Portugal in the Lif-
teenth and sixteenth centuries.
HENRIQTJESDE NORONEA. From D. Gargia J-Ienricyucs of'
Seville.
HEREDIA. From D. Antonio de Beredin, captain of tlio
Spanish force sent to Madeira when Portugal was sub-
ject to Spain, in 1682.
How~ar. From Garcin Ilonlem de Sousn, who mnrrieil Ct~tll-
arina Gongalvez da Camara, daughter of Znrgo. I-Io
was a noble of the housel~oldof D, Mnnoel.
JAQUES. From Raphael Jaques, an English merchant, wllo
settlecl in Funchal in 1570.
JERVIS. From Richnrd Jervis, nn Englishman, who aeltled
in F~inchalin 1660. Tho present represcnt;ativo of tliis
family is the MOrgado Jervis.
LEAL. One of the more ancient names of Maclcira, especinlly
at Porto da Cruz, where, on their property tho Lombo
dos Leaes, is the chnpel of Sno 5090 Nopomuceno.
LEME. From Martiq Leme, a Flemish oavalior, wllo
been gentleman of the bed-chamber to 11,10 Elnperor
Maximilian, and came to Madeira in 1483.
J~.IOGES. From the Frenchlnan Phili1)po Genlil de Liluoges,
70
Lono. Prom Peclro Lobo, a cnvnlicr in Pltince EIenry's
courl. I t was he who brought the letter froin D. Beatrix
n11d tha Vicnr of Thomar, forbidding tlie Mndeirense to
obey the Bishop of Tangier.
LOMI~LINO. From two illustrious Genoese, Urbnno and Bap-
tista Lomelino, in 1470.
MACZIDO.From Martim Goac;alvcz de Macedo, one of Icing
John 1,'s captains at the battle of Aljubarrota.
MATTOB. An ancient uame-begins with Luiz Fernandez
de Muttos Coutinho, who came to Madeirn in 1580. He
wtbs descended from the Kings of Loon,
~'CJCDINAS. From nu ancicnt Spanish family.
M I O This family is connecter1 with the Da Camaraa and
tlie Noronlins through Donna Brnncn de Mcllo.
MICN~ES.Froin Martim Mendes de Vasconcellos, who was
ono of the four nobles sent by Ring John I. to marry
%nugo's four daughters.
MIAL~IEIRO, now MALIIE~RO. From Pedro Gongalvez Mial-
lleiro, a Portuguese of noble family, in the fifteenth cen-
tury.
MIRANDA. From Josio Lourtngo de Miranda, one of Znrgo'a
compnnious on his first voyage to Madeira, and after
whorn the Polltn da 6ilo Lourengo is named.
MONIIZZAC;~XO. From Josio Rodrigues Mondrag~o,a Biscayan
of noble family, who came in 1600.
MONK Ono 01the first settlers in Mndeira was Vasco Mar.
tiin Moniz do Menezes.
MONTIBIRO.Settled in Madcirn duriug the reign of D.
8anol1o I.
'77
 Cbe Zanb of the U i n e
NETTO. From Joiio Rodrigues Netto, a nobleman from
Salamanca. He lived in Funchal, and had a street
made that the procession of Corpus Christi might pass
his house. The street is named Rua dos Nettos.
NORONHA.Donna Maria de Noronha was wife to the seco~~cl
captain of Funchal. The Quinta dos Padres i t Cam-
panario was the property of this family.
ORNELLAS,From Alvaro de Omellas, a, noble of Prince
Henry's court, one of the first colonists.
PERE~RELLO. From Bartholomeu Perestrello, the first cap-
tain of Porto Xanto.
PERRY. From Joseph Perry, an English merchant, who
settled in 1650.
PI~TENTEL. From Pedro Pimentel, a,noble of the royal
household. Came to Madeira in 1470, ancl married Da.
habe1 Drummond.
PINTO. From Lopo Fernandez Pinto, of noble descent.
Came in 1500; had grants df the best lands at Santa
Anna and the Ilha.
POLANCO SALAMANCA.From Francisco de Salamanca
Polanco, a native of Burgos, and one of tlie Spanish
captains sent to Madeira in 1582.
QUINTAL. From Diogo da Costa do Quintal, who built the
chapel of N. S. das Angustias on 11%estate.
R I ~ o . From Joiio do Rego, d noble of Algarve.
RUA. From Alvaro Annes da Run, one of the first colonists,
who died in 1471.
SANHA. From Manoel Affonso de Sanha, who had layp
grants of land from Pontn Delgada to the Lombnda, das
Vaccas. He built the church at Ponta Delgada,
78 '
SA~JVMRE,
uow SAUVAY~E.
From Honorato Sanvaire of
Marseilles, who came to Madeira in 1660 as French
consul.
S ~ I I O M ~ J CExtinct,
RG. Their lands were a t Ponta do Sol.
Sllaa~c;~an.From Adrian Spranger, a German, in 1600.
T~~ctvw.1?rom Diogo de Teive, Prince Henry's squire, who
buill tlie first sugnr-mill in Madeira.
T E I X I ~ AFrom . Brnnca Tcixeira, who married Tristam
Vns, first c n ~ ~ t a iofn Machico. He19 husband took the
name of Toixeira, or Teixeyrn, as it was originally
spelled.
Uzpr,, FI'oI~~ Rily Vnx Usel, s Frenchman who settled at
Atnbun.
Vnitcins, Frorn C'l~~iatoviioVargas, a Spaniard of noble
fi~mily.
VAHC!ON~~I,J~Q~. Orle of the oldest colonists.
Vrzovr. From Robert Willoughby, an Englishman, whose
nnlllo was chnuged to Vizovi. EIe came to Madeira
from Porlugnl with his wife, Doiinn Antonia Coibem,
in 1690. I5e was a l<night of tho 6rdcr of Christ in
Z'ortugid,

First two Settlements.-The first two settlements

worc z~,tB'nnchal, allcl M~zcbico,a i d thc iloxt town
X~zziltwas Bunta Cmz.' Ponta do Sol was also
rm cm3y scttlcinent, and during tlie first years of
i l . ~hiet;ol*yacquired a good locd reputation for
.--* -p--"- -
' Cllinptcr VIIIC., Santa Cruz.
1.-8 70
 Ube Zanb of tbe Wine
the _enterprise of its i~lhabitants. Weaving be-
came and has continued to be a leading industry
there ; the ha11d-100111s used to-day are as primi-
tive as those employed two cent~~ries ago. Tile
weavers are women, who dyc skilfully wit11 colonr-
ing matters made from t11c woocl, bark, and roots
of certain trees. Logwood and copperas f ~ ~ s n i s h
vasious sbades of pul.plcSandblack ; wild berbesis
supplies yellow; madder, red; and walnut, brown.
Tlle f~~ll-dress costume of a Macleiraii country-
lass is not complete ~vitboutthe cxquisitel y cm-
broidered bodice that is best nladc b y the llativcs
of Ponta do Sol.
In a book recently published it is asserted that
in the early days of its settlerncnt " tlie island
was divided into districts, which were fofourtecii in
number, and are the same a t the prcseat day."
This statement will be found to be at variance
wit11 the list of the niilc &Iadeiran districts, or
concel7~os,as given i11 Chapter IX., under the
hc&iug " Adrninistratio~~." The artthor of Ulo
seiltellce jnst quoted evidently lost sight of the
fact that eve11 a t 110i~-progressiveMadeira " tlia
sun do move," as a celebrated coloured preaches
once declared.
80
 Changes in Administration,- The followii~g
changes have beon made in t11c conceZ7tos as origi-
nally createcl : The colzcelkos of MAGDALENA and
RIBEIRAB ~ A Vhave A became f~eyzlexias,or sub-
divisioas, of tllc conceZ7t,o of PQNTA DO SOL;
PONTA DELG~ADA has bccome a f~eyz6ezictof BA0
VIOENTE ; CANPANARXO, a f~ ~ e y z ~ofe ~CAMARA
iu
DE L o ~ o;sCANIQO, of SANTA Cnvz ; and PORTO
DA. Cnuz, of M~craroo. The col~ceZ7zoof SANTA
ANNA is not mcntioncd by tllc author in ques-
tion, whilc tllo foregoii~gplaces, now ficgz~ezias,
arc by hcr liatecl as concelhos.
 CHAPTER IV

THE MODERN HISTORY O F THE MADEIRAS

rectfon of the G a t h e b r a I + - ~ ~ ~was

~cl~
advanced to the ralilc of a city in 1508.
It was in this year that the building of
the Cathedral1 was begun l ~ Kingy Malioel and
at his expense. 111 1514 the first bishop was ap-
poillted. No villages were started in tlie interior
in the early days, for 110 roads 1~adtllen beell
built, and the oiily means of getting to Ftzaclial
fiom the outlying districts was by the sea ; but
settlemellts were rapidly made a t v a r i o ~ ~plaees
s
along the coast.
*De Montluc raids Funcha1.-During tlie admin-
istration of the fifth goveraoi*of Madeira, a great
calamity befell the illhabitallt~of Funcllal. It
was in October, 1556, that Peyrot de Montluc,

l For an account and history of the Cathedral, see Chapter

V., The Cathedral Externally; Chapter XV., Tho Interior

of the Cathedral.
82
 Olobertz Pl4fetorv of the Olabetrae
sol1 of Marshal de Moatlnc, a most bitter enemy
of the IIng~zclzots,was leading llis fleet of war-
vessels near Madeira, when a violelzt storm dose
and drove his fleet into Praya Bay, some three
lnilcs west of F~ulclial. It occurred to tlie m-
pl*inciplcdleader, Montluc, that here would be an
cxccllont l~laceto recruit troops, for his ralzlss were
somewhat depletcd. at this lime. So he landed a
forco and marcheil to t l ~ ocity, where he and his
baud took np their abode for fifteen days, during
wl~icllthey burnt residences, pillaged cllurclles,
and robbed and murdered tlie iahabitalits. The
cl*noltiesto wliicl~thoy subjected inally worthy
11coplo Tvere too horrible to record.
Murder of Father Roderigo and Nine of his.Brother-
hood,-Many of tlla saciad emblems of the churc11
and gold n~lrlsilver orasrnoi~tshad bee11 hidden
awny by Fatlier Roderigo at the approach of the
rnnreudors. The lattor seized the lloly mail gild
in flictcd tcYl*ibletorturcs zzpon him in order to
make him disclose the placc in wlzicli Be had
hidden the valuables ; but the priest, who was
tronsnror of the Brothcrl~oodof tllc S$o Frauciaco
Collvcnt, would impart 110 iaformetioa, and died
i r ~lha midst of his agony. Chagrillecl by his
88
failure t o secuie the treasures of the priests,
Moiltluc murdered all of the brotherhood who
had not made their escape. There were nine of
these ~zizfortunates.
Gaspar Correa is put t o ~eath.--Iu no amiable
fiame of mniad, the blood-thirsty 3'1-eizchman led
his me11 back towards the town. But, as he
dashed down the niouatain road, there was a puff
of smoke from the wayside l~edge,and M o n t l ~ ~ c
stninbled to the ground from a wound i11 the leg.
Whether Gaspar Correa, a promineilt citizen, had
fired the shot is not lciiomn, but it was he who
owned the premises from whidl the shot; had
come, and so he was fouild and put to death.
Bombardment of the Cathedral.-The Cathedral
of Ftulchal, which had but lately been finished,
stood resplendent with a gold roof that glittered
in the suaslziae. Taking their leader oil a litter,
the marauders were for keeping lzim quiet, but
he was now fiaenxied wit11 pail1 and ailgel*, and
cried t o his mc11 t o take lzim to the Cathedral.
The rays froin the roof flashed in his eyes and
dou~blymaddened lzim. So the Cathedral was
bombarded, the dead were torn from tlzeir graves,
and the priests were put to the sword.
84
 tlllobern Fli~torpo f tbe illlnbcfrzle
Assassination of Governor d'0rnellas.-%. sliip had
been sent t,o P o r t ~ ~ wit11
g d tlie news of tlie Frenoll
attack, ancl wit11 the request that tr0011s 130 ~ e n t
imincdiately to Faiicbal. Mealiwhile, Snr. D'Or-
~~ellaa, G;ovclanorof Madeira, was assassi11c~ted.
Death of De NContluc,-It was on the fiftecnC11
clay after the death of Fatlticr Rodcrigo that a
sumos spread thai; a fleet of Porf;nguesemen-of-
war were sightcd coining ill to atiaclc the Freiich.
A great Sear scincd Montlnc's heart, and, mortifi-
cation of hi8 W O U I I C ~having set in, lze expired.
Thcil the invadcrs fled fiom i l ~ town
c and scl; sail in
tilno.t;ocscalle t11e zlveilging Po~~tugnesc war-ships.
Spanish Usurpation of Portugal.-At tlzc time of
the Castilian usurpation of Fortngal, in the year
IbSO, the Madejras fell into the hands of the
Spaniards.' Btlt when the Portuguese ~.cvoltecl
ill 1640, ancl a~~cccedecl in re-establishing tbeir
iaclc~oondci~cc, t l ~ c yregail~ccl po~sessioiiof tlne
Mzlcleirau.
Signification of Ilha da Nadeira,-As Before
~~~cntioncd, IZ71cr; da Jfadcsi~a~ means the! isleid of
l Pliilil)II., King of Spnin, oonquercd Portugal.
"n tlla 13nhnma Ielands tllcre is a pnrliculnr tree whicl~
goes by tllc nnme of dfadeira. A strcnm two tllousnl~dmiles
8G
mood, and was so named, when discovered, be-
cause it was covered by dense forests.
The Seven Years' Fire.-When settlers came to
tlie island they started a fire on the spot wllere
the city of Funchal now stands, to inabe a clear-

long, and which is the principal tributary of tbo Arnnzon

River, is also called the Jfadeira, 011 account of tlie forest8
that cover its banks. Like the majority of Portuguese words,
N a d e i ~ abad a Latin origin. I n Julius Cwsall's account of
Britain there occurs the following statement : " iI4ate~ia0~1jzt~qtbe
geqteris, ut Gallia est; pvceter fagun et nbietsn?,." Portu-
guese is frequently called the daughter of Latin, because of
its remarkable similarity to the old Roman language. The
termination nl, in the names of some of tlie towiis and vil-
l a g e ~of Mndeira, is an abbreviation of the Lntin ad.jectivn1
silffix alis. Examples : Funchal, the locality of fonnal ;
Funal, a beacon ; Cur~~al, a fold for cattle ; Fayal, where the
faya-tree grows ; Seixal, a place of willows.
Among the countless Portuguese words that show cliroct
derivation from their ~o-calledmother-tongue, the following
names are met with by the visitor to Madeira : Porto (Lab.,
porRls), a port ; Vigia (Lnt., vigilin), a watching-plnco ; Pniil
(Lat., paltis), a swamp; Ermids (Lat., e~*emitn),a hermil.
Names found among the native families-Pornpills, Cwsar,
Augusto, Numa Pompilio-are also suggestive of Roman
days, and so are such nppellatians of places ns Ignncio,
Xavier, Romeiros, and Antouio.
80
N A T I V E CHILDREN BATHING.
ii~gwhcreoil to build and settle. As has been
stated ill tlle concluding paragraph of Chapter II.,
this fire banlcd for seven years. There are few
trecs on the island to-day, excepting where some
~na11forests along the northern coast aind in the
ccatral vdlcys still remain?
Slavery.-At one period, i11 the early history of
tile island, slavos were brougl~tfrom Africa and
sold to tlnc Madeiraus. A s early as 1552 there
were some two thousaad seven blundred slaves in
Madeira, accordillg to the fiimous old clll*onicler,
l?mctuoso. I t was not ~ultilafter a servile ill-
anrvl*cc'tion, in 1775, that slavery was abolished in
Madcira, by thc dccrcc of Pombal. The liberated
acgrocs have since, .from time to time, intermar-
ried with the aativcs of Earol~eaildescent. The
deijlc complexioi~s and various pec~zliaritiesof
race2 sitd costumes to bc observed amoilg the
lower classes of Portuuguese colollists may thus
be aocozzntod foi*.
Race.-Fnrtlncrmoi-e, inany of tlne Madeirails
are x'epntcd to l~nvean admixture of Moorish
l Chapl;er XX., Trecs.
"Chapter XIV., The Social Life.
Tn Chaptor XV., native costumes nre described.
81)
 Cbe Zanb of the Wine
blood, first br0ugh.t to the island by the pirates
who at one time infested the Mcditerralleail, and
who, wl~en vanquished, are believed to have
settled in Madeira in largo numbers.
Captain Cook's Sojourn in Madeira;-Of the many
iioted travellers of by-gone years who sojounlcd
in Madeira ibr a time, the celebrated Xi~glish
explorer, Cnpt ail1 Janles Cook, inigh t especially
be mentionecl. He visited F~ulchal011 his west-
warcl voyage of 17G8, ancl. while Ilia ship, the
Endeavour, lay at her moorings i11 Funchal Bay,
an.zE-ont was offered to the British flag. Thcrc
was a British frigate in the bay at tile time: with
that dauntless, loyal sl)irit that illarks the char-
acter of the l~igli-bredEaglilicahman, Captain Coolc
proml>tly.ilotiiicd the frigate's coinrnailder that
lze was ready to join in s battle against the olt
fcndera. Fire was thcroupoi~opencd, and directed
principally ngaiilst the Loo Roclr fort. The cn-
gagemcnt was a short oae, but t11c Madcirans
were the su@erers, and lcarncd a lessoil $bat they
did not soon forgct. The oficial report of the
fight was kept secret by govcrninen1;al commaad,
but it was chronicled by 0110 Forster, a i d later
made public.
90
 Captain Cool: called a secolid time at Mtldcira
in 17'72. 111 16s snbsequent account of this later
visit he rcinarked upon the great number of
blacks inhabiting h e island, in the bondage of
alavcry aild as fiecmcn. It was but two years
later that Pombal'e decree was, published for the
enzancipation of slavery in Madeira,
British Occupancy of Madeira,-In 1801 Madciiqa,
was occupied by British troops, and again in 1807
it bccamo a Bl,itisli s.trongl-lold, ~ v h i citl ~remaiacd
dnring thc iilvasioil of Poi*t~zgalby the 3'1-each,
ancl until t l ~ oclosc of the Contilieiltal war in 1814.
Napoleon brought to Madeira.--The defeatcd
Rml)wo~.Na,l>oleon, :&a a prisoiler of war, was
bi-otzght to Madeiila *in 151.6, bcfoi~cbcing con-
vcycd to tlio islnl~dof St. IIelena.
The Revolution of 1823,-Althongh usually
chi~oniclcdin Portngucsc llistory as a rcvolntion,
the sit~zationa t Nadcira in 1823 was not sncli a8
iiz any way to warrant thc view which t l ~ m e othcr-
country, Portugal, toolc of it. It wizs 0110 of the
many iaslaucos wl-lcrc tho aims and vicwa of the
Madeil-ans hnvc bceh wrongly misinterpreted by
the pcoplc? of tllc motl~e~~-connti*y. Urldor the
tuition of tllc priests tllc Madcirails had, long
01
 'izhe Zanb of tbe Wine
before the year 1823, learned to regard tllc con-
stitutioil of a fice goverilmeilt as a t~~aasgl.ession
against thc Divine will. I-Iencc they rejoiced in
bondage. But, notwitl1sta11dingg this fitate of af-
fairs in Madeira, reports came to Lisbon through
some vcngcailce ssclting politicians, in the year
1823, that Madeiraiis had riscn i11 opc11 robellion
against their llorne goven~mcnt.
111anticipation o f a bloody contefit rcgimentfi
and artillery werc hastily despatcliecl by a flcct of
vessels from the port of Lisbon to F~znchal. Gr~cat
waa the astoi~ishmentof the tlSool)son landillg
to filcl, instead of resistance, a grcat throng of
peol~letrtnled out to welcorne them. Their nr-
rival was cos~siderodan occasioil al~pi~op~.iato for
fefitivities in their 11011011r; and the few malcoatci~ta
fiom whom the rumors of an prising llacl origi-
nated-and who had seci*etlyplauaed to fire the
blood of the natives, and hence to bring about
an uprisii~g,by bringii~gt l troops ~ down 111~oiz
them-found themselves obligccl to retire with
thc scant solace that " Party is the rnadiless of
illany ibr the gain Bf a few," and in tllia caae tllo
few had no inflmence over t11e maay. It was thcn
unadvisable to ful*thcr endeavour to incito tho
02
nativcs to itcvolt. But the leaders of the newly
landed Portuguese forces, ~niableto appreciate
thc quiet statc of affairs whicll they had not
looltcd ibr, becaine despotic. Under their regime
tllc inaocenl; were suspectect aiid imprisoned.
Dcl?ositions werc talteii in secret from accuseils,
thus allowiilg cliaiices'for false accusations and
c; ucccss in apitcf~~l rtvenge. Those wishii~gin-
del)eiideiit govcrnment might have been able at
this time to h a v ~created rcvolt had not tlic Ma-
clcirai~sbeen all-endnriag and uacoinplaining.
Civil Wars.-Madeira shared with the motller-
country i11 tlie civil wars between retainers of
tlzc z~enrpingking Dom Miguel a i d the arty of
X10111 Pcdro, yvhicl~,~ooilafter Do111 Miguel's
c:o~*onation, began in 1828 a i d lasted until the
icing resigncc1the t11roiic in favour of Doin Pcdro's
dnz~glitor.
Coronation of Donna Maria.-Dom Pcdro had
made aver whatever rights hc hiiilsell yossessed
to tlw P o r t ~ ~ g n c crown
sc to his daughter Doinla
Marizl, who was crowi~cdQueen of Portugal in
.l;hc ycnr 18i3.3, IIcr father, hdwever, dicd during
ihc next year, and ~11el~crselfdiccl, in childbil.tl1,
ill 1853.
03
 Ube Zanb of the Wltze
Dom Pedro V., the Wise and Just Ruler.--Dom
Pedro V. thcil acceded to tlie throne, and dur-
ing his reign the Madeirails contiaued to enjoy
the peace and prosperity which began after the
retirement of Dom Mignel. Doln Pedro V.
proved himself to be a mail of intelligence and
high aims, who sllowed great ability as a scholar,
a statesman, and a ruler. The extraordil~ary
interest and energy which he displayed in all
-tmdertakings to promote his country's welfare so
endeared him to his people that his death, in
1861, was more deel~lylczineilted thail that of day
of his 12redecessors.
Reign of Dom Luiz 1.-He was succeeded, on
November 11,1861, by Don1 Luiz I.,under wllose
reign Madeira coilti~iuedto share in a Portuguese
epoch of peace.
The First Ocean Cable.-A higllly importaat era
in the history of Madeira was inaugurated by the
establishment of telegraphic comiulzication with
the American and European coatinents. This
great enterprise was s~zccessfullyaccomplished
by the Brazilian S~fimarineTelegraph Company,
wl~ich,in the year 1874, laid lines fkom Pernam-
b-tzco to Lisbon by way of St. Villcent, of the
94
 moberlz Flietor(i, of the mabefrae
Cairo Verdes, and Madeira? Many fetes and
festivities were held a t Funchal in commemora-
tion of this anspicious event, which ma~*kedthe
bcgilli~ingof n ilcw el~ochin the progress of the
Maclciraa.
Don1 Lniz died October 9, 1889,2 and the
writcr, wlio was in Madeira a t the timc, witilessed
n ccrcmony bilown as " the Brcalting of tlie
Crowi~,"~ which tulies place six weelts after tlle
deatll of a P o r t ~ ~ g u c sruler,
o in all the varions
lallcla a i d proviilccs over which he 11as held sway
duiillg his lif~t' = Imc.
Dom Carlos I., the Present King.--On the acces-
aioii of Doln Cai*losl.,tllc clder soil of Dom Luiz,
a com1)licstion of diflicaltics arose. His great-
rtnclc, I'edro IT., tllc Einljcvor of Brazil, was
dclh~onc?cl,z111cT. a republican government was es-
t;ablishcd in Brazil. This radicil cl~angcin the
Soi~nof g o v c r i i ~ n ~ iill~ tt l ~ cgrc:~test of Sonth
~ i ~ n o r i c aconizlric~
ii went into eflcct November
16,1889, a,nd, as so011 as it bccamc known in the
moi,be~*-coul~l~y, c!i*catcd all omi11011s stir ill the
- - . p -

VClhi\ptedXVI., Cnbla Communication.

~ 1 1 d ~ tXITI.,
or Dcspotio Law.
l' Cht11)tor XV., Tllo Brc~~lringof' the Urown.
YG
ranks of the Portuguese republican party, which
had been for many years growing i11 numbers
and influence.
Dethronement of the King is advocated.-The
leaders of the party bailed the news of the new
republic wit11 great joy, holding that the event
foreshadowed a similar change in the P o r t u g ~ ~ e s e
government ; and the democratic press of Lisbon
recommended the dethrollemellt of the new sov-
ereign.
Victory for Dom Car1os.-Bnt the king's retain-
ers were stanch and loyal. D ~ ~ r i atheg mriter7s
stay on the islaad, and shortly after the dethrone-
ment of the emperor, a Braziliail war-vessel put
into Funchnl Bay, flying the flag of the new gov-
ernment. The Governor of Madeira ordered that
the new colows should not be recognised, and the
cal~taillof the Braziliail vessel was obliged to
hoist the emperor's flag.
The African Question.-The African question
res seated another diffic~~lty
that arose t o confront
Dom Carlos. Serpa Piato,l Brito Capello, and
Roberto Ivens returned to Lisbon after making
a thorough stndy of the gcogrsl~l~y of Afiica.
Chapter XIXI., British Monopoly of the Commerce.
96
The oi*iginal Portuguese settlements a t Angola
alad Mozambique had been mmely ports for the
convei~ienceof the aatiolld maritime commerce ;
and ilie tronble which had been brewing for years
with the English over the pcstion as t o how
much of the interior back of the Portuguese coast
se.ltlernents 1.ightly beloilged to Portugal came
to licad. The Eaglislz, who controlled adjoin-
ing l~rovin?es,claiined that tlle Portuguese had
not attended to the settlement or civilizatioil of
tllo porlions of the interior which they claimed,
a i d by thciiqsupcrior power the English gained
inz~clzof tlieir ground. The high spirit of the
Portuguese was wouuded not only by the pain-
S111 contrast between their past greatness and
their present wcalgless, but also by the stand
vhicl:l1thc Englisll government and peol~lle,their
ancieilt allics, now took towards them : the Lon-
don p r e s n ~ a sllighly anta~onistic.
The Portuguese Historians, and their Patriotic
pride.-h natiollal 111-idcinstilled by the model-U
Pol~lugncscbiatorinns, who are ever at great pains
to keep the glories of old Portugal well in the
ror~~embrancc of the present gener,zt'ion, causes
tho l~col~lo
to bo cpidr to rescnt any iufringement
I.-0 97
 Ube %anb of tbe Wine
1zpo11 their rights, and t o adhere t o t h e i ~inde-
pendeizce and cry down " " Iberianism." Wheil
the tidings of England's supremacy in regard to
the African question reached Madeira, the more
turbulent 11atives of Portuguese descent were
stirred to sac11 bitter rcseiltniel~t against the
Englisl~resideilts as to lead them in soille cases
to acts of personal violence and to rioting ;l but
peaceable relatioas with the colonists, on W~IOSC
wealth and enterprise the islandcrs priiicipally
rely for maintenance, wcrc quicldy resumecl.
The Present Queen.-Dom Carlos I., the present
king, was born Scptenlber 25,1863. He mawied
on May 22, 1856, before his accession, tbo
Priilcess Marie Amdie de Bo~z~bon,eldest
daughter of the Comte dosParis. Both kisg
and queen have the same natal day.2 The now
Heir Apparent, Priilce Royal, Luiz Filippe,
Dnque of Braganza, was born Ma1-cl1 21, 1887.
Despite the fact that P o i ' t ~ ~ is
g ~ ~comparatively
l
small liiagdom, the rulc~.,Do111 Carlos I , is pos-

' Chapter XIII., The Fight of 1889.

aChapter XVI.,LETTERpnoM UNITED BTATES CONSUL
J o s TO E Natal Dtly of the Kin6 and Qileen,
~ T ~ WRITER,
08
sessecl of a greater aumber of titles than any
other liping sovereign.
The Queen's Character.-IIer Majesty is a young
woillan of thirty-five years of age, q~~eeilly, ac-
complished, and possessed of a rarely dashing
and daring spirit. She is broad minded, cl~ari-
table, n great student, and has many wide and
val-ied interests for the welfase of her people.
D ~ l r i n gthe past several years she has beell par-
suing the study of medicine, and she recently
established a public clinic a t the Ijoyd Palace
in Lisbon. Qnceii Marie Amdlie is withal ath-
lctic a n d takes illfillite pleasure in various forms
of pl~ysicalexercise. She is a very fine swimmer :
Illdeed a humble fishermall near Lisbon owes his
life t o a dsl>ingdeed she 1-ecentlypesformed. This
l i a ~ l ~ e i ~inethe
d following marines :
For some time past the royal family had beell
stayillg at Cascaes, a short distailce west of Lis-
bon, and a favourite resort during the l;athing
scason. One day in the latter part of October of
the past year (1900) a fishermnil named Catalgo,
11,zving just landed the p e e n fiom a row-boat, was
tnlviiinghi8 little craft al-ound, when it .suddei~ly
cal~aizedand he fell into the water. EIer Majesty,
09
 Gbe Zanb of the Wl~ze
without an instant's hesitation, pluilgecl illto tlie
sea and reached Catalgo, wllo was sinlring. Two
fishermen, who were near by, rnsl~edto her assist-
ance and the mail was talien ashore; i t was
found that one of 11is legs was broken. Catal8.o
was carried t.o tlle royal residence, where 11c re-
ceived every care.
The King's Character.-The king is an able mail,
slid he surely needs to be to solve ~visclythe
knotty problems which constalltly conS~*onthim.
He has a noble bcariiig, is posscsscd of courage
and deteriniaatioa, and, like the queen, is pl-rysi-
cally as well as mentally active. A devoteo of
athletics, he was, before his accesaioa, Sond of
taking a minor part in bull-figl1ts.l 0 1 1 such
occasioi~she iavariably preservecl his incogaito.
I t is related in court circles that 11c oncc under-
took tlie chief part in a bull-fight, a lady haviizg
dared him to do so, and ncarly lost 11;s lifc. AB
he wa8endeavoming to avoid an onslaught of tlie
maddelled bull, lie slippecl and fell. Fortunately,
the cries of tlic spectators, many of whom know
the king, diveibtedthe beast's a1;tciltioil for a 1110-
ment ; and in that illomeilt Doln Ca~losmanagod
Chaptor XV., Bull.Fighting.
100
. l 1
 mobern atfetorp of the mabefrae
to scramble LIP and make a rush for the barri-
cade, which he cleared just i11 time to escape
being gored t o death. The king is quoted as
l~aviagsaid that he '' did those twenty yards in
record time, and the bull was a good second."
Why Madeira is Especially Interesting to the
World.-Of recent years Madeira has become es-
pecially iilterestiag to the world not only on ac-
count of its famous wines: but slao because of
its ssll~~brious atmosphere, wl~ichis remarkably
curative for invalids ;2 its usefulness as a port of
call for steamers from all parts of the world;a
and witl~alits marvellons beauty as an island
gem amid ever-slliniag seas.

l Chapter XXIII., The Vine and the Wine.

a Chapter XVI.,A Wateripg-Place and Health Resort;
Chapter XI., W a r n i n g to the Invalid.
"Chapter VI., All about Steamship Routes ; Chapter XVI.,
Steamers to Madeira.
 Part 11
L

Crnvel nnb 5 f ~ b t ~ 5 e e t n ~
c
PANORAMA OF FUm*nmL-SECTION L
PANORAMA OF FUNCHAL-SECTION 111.
PANORAMA O F FUNCHAL-SECTIOx IV.
 CIIAPTER V
LANDING AT MADEIRA

abet rn from tbe 5ea,-The approach

.to Madeira by ship in fair weather
a,Korda one of the most sublime and
bcuuf;iful spectacles to be witnessed anywhere
ill tllc world. Before the aea-weary vision the
verdant i n o ~ u ~ t a iisle
n towers in a, glistening
haze, ailcl appears like some realm of cncl~antmeat
1,llat 111ight readily be looked upon as the King-
dom o f Nept1111e.
In Funchal Bay.-It is only when the ship e11tel.s
t11a l)ay1 and draws near to s ~vlliteand yellow
city, stretching i l l l a ~ ~from
d a curving beach1
through a valley and u p the gentle slopes of
cs~urroundiaghills, that the wondering bellolder
car? fully realize that he has come to a habitation
of men, aild aoi; of gods or of water-sprites. Be-
' ~ l l l l l l ~ 0XVI.,
r STATEEI
LETTERFROM UNITED CONSUL
Jo~rceTO TIIE WRITER,The Bay and its Shipping.
109
 &be Zanb of tbe 'P1Qlii1e
yoild the hill-enclosed city t l ~ emo~ultai~ls rise
psecipitously in coulltless ranges, and lift their
sllowyl suinlnits illto regions of mist. Fleecy
clouds, drifting across the rays of the sun, cause
a play of strange shadows up011 these monsters
of eartll and roclr.
Enterprising Natives.-But from this spectacle
the ti*avellcr tnras when there rises sl dill of
wrangling voices near a t hand, a i ~ dtllc dcclcs
become trailsfonned into the stalla d a bazaar.
For the vessel has beell sun.onnded b y small
csafts, ill many of wlzich natives have come with
various wares to sell to the passengers. Ein-
broidery, basket-woslc, and otllcr l~rodoc%sof
uative industry aile oEerec1, and tropical fiuits
aild Rowers are displayed in rich 1~roSi1sioa.
Native Swimmers,-Under the vessel'a side and
scudding about alnong the scows of the mer-
chailtmen aye to be seen the tiny egg-shell boats
of the swimmers,-swarthy, blaclr-l~airedfellows,
almost naked, and with s l l i ~ y ,olive-coloz~red
,skins. They float ancl pose up011 the billows or
s p a t at the edges of their little crafts, all gestic-
ulating and malriag grimaces like monlreys the
, Chapter IX., Snow.
l10
while? and blendiag clamorous shouts with the
ware-cryillg voices of the trades-peol~le. It call
be Beell that the swimmers are holding themselves
~ o i s e dfor immediate diving, and, tl~oughtheir
cries may sound like ullilltelligible gibberish to
the ear unfamiliar wit11 Portnguese, their mean-
i i ~ g ,nevertheless, is quickly conveyed by their
violcilt gestures. So the amusement-seeking
passenger tosses a coin overboard to see a doze11
litlie lorms plunge into the water and coiltest
below the surface for the coveted prize. They
l ~ s v 1c10 fear of sharks, which are rarely seen off
the soutliern coast, though, the water being re-
marlrably clcar and the s~~btropical sun's rays
almost perpendicular and as penetrating as a
stzbmarine search-light's, many other varieties of
mollster fish are to be seen gliding about at no
great depth. As the health and custom-house
officers are tardy callers, and as no one can leave
the ahip ~ultilafter their arrival, many passengers
join in t l ~ epastime of coin-tossing. Then the
swimmers form groups apart to avoid collisioas,
aad to occupy the various positions advantageous
for securillg coins. As each individual seeks t o
attract tile attention of the coin-tossers to him-
111
 Cke Zattb of tbe Wine
anrl to drown the voices of his comrades by
the louchless of his own shout, the reslxlt is a
bedlam. It is timely here t o remarlc that t l ~ e
Madeirans are world-fanlous swimmers : the day-
illg feats wlzic11 they pel-form in the water call
llowhere be aurpassed.
Where Sharks abound.-Off Che ilortheri~coast
of the island, where ground-sharks,l the most
dangerous species of the. shark family, fi~eqnent
the water, natives have Beell lcilowil to swim while
graspillg nil sheathed daggers, and to a t tack and
despatch the man-eater as it t ~ ~ m 011 sits side to
bite its vent~zl~efi;omo
assailants in twain.
Deep-Sea Divers.-Again, it is autl~ol-itatively
recorded that two of tliese fellows Bravely rescued
B vessel that had been ~torm-drivenagainst some
rocks. With the water pouring in tl~rongha hole
in 11er hull, the vessel had begun to sinlr, wl~eil
they volunteered to ti.y and save her. N o divers'
armour did they have to put on, but, instead,
they stripped tlzeir bodies t o liakedness, and,
,graspiilg bales of oalcum, sllrzilg into t h e turbu-
lent sea. a r e they real~pearedabove t h e surface
the vessel bad righted herself 1113011 an eve11 lreel
Chapter XXVI., Marine Varieties of Fish.
112
and ceased to founder. For the natives had dived
to the l~laccof t l ~ elealc and l~ushedtheir wadding
against it, wl~eathe l~owerfulsuction of the in-
rushing water drew it illto the hole with such
forc'as effectually to plug it until the crew could
drain the hull. of its briny flood and cr,mplete the
caulking Gorn within.
The dive~sabout the iiewly arrived ship per-
form many s k i l f ~ ~antics,
l and at lengtl~one,
more daring than his comrades, volunteers, for a
shilling, to dive from midway up the mast, clear
of the ship, into the water, and ul~clerthe
The anio~tnthe asks for is tendered by the pas-
seiigers, and he thereupoa clambers with mo~lkey-
like agility 011 to the decks and up illto t-lle rig-
ging. Whcn he reaches the positioll whence he
has prolnised to take his long leap, be poises
himself, tllell s w k a forward and speeds head-first
into the air. Clearing the vessel's side by a
hair's breadth, he cleaves the water with scarce a
splash, aucl vanishes so swiftly that an ollloolrel.
of the iilstant might be deceived into thfnkii~ghe
had witnessed the disal~pearanceof an arrow sent
from the bow of an arcller. The ship's passen-
gem who have watcl~edt l ~ centire performance
113
 Cbe Zanb of tbe Wine
rush across the deck, where. they await the reap-
peasance of the diver. After about a minute a i d
a half of breathless suspense the fellow lifts up
11i~head rulconcenledly to announce the accoin-
plishment of his feat.
Health Officers and Hotel Agents.-On the arrival
of the health officers the hotel proprietors promptly
come alongside in row-boats propelled by awarthy
oarsmen. For, as F ~ u c l l a lis provided with no
wllarves, vessels cast anchor a few hundred yards
distant from the city front and mload cargoes
and passeuge~sillto crafts provided for their con-
veyance t o the shore.
Qnding in Former Days.-111 earlier days it was
the custonl to land passeagess in long boats.
These were beached on tile breakers' crest and.
p~llledclear of the dashing spray by meails of a
sope t h ~ ~ o w
over
n the projectiag prow and attachcd
at the other end to a yoke of oxen. But when,
as not infrequently occurred, the oxen failed to
respond a t the right instant to the goads of their
drivers, the wave, in the walce of the breaker on
whose crest the boat had beell safely borne, curled
and broke upon the passengers, sometimes giving
them a thorough drenching.
114
LOO ROCK F O R T A N D T H E N E W BREAKWATER
 Present Manner of Landing.-Tl~e method of
receiving ~isitorsto the island has recently been
inqch iinproved by the co~lstructiolzof a small
picrl t ~ the
t new b r e a k ~ a t e r . ~llere passeagers
call be landed il! .the rongbest weatller witllont
undergoing ally risk of t l ~ eunwelcome batll'to
which formerly they were often an1.jected.
The Custom-House.-I-Izlvillg decidcd upon the
liote18 which promises to affol-dthe most suitable
and satisfactory accommodatioi~sfor one's self
and party, the prospective guest does well to
placc his (or her) various articles of luggage in
chm~geof the hotel proprietor or ageat, who in-
variably coincs aboard the ship, and wllo call be
of considcl-able service in passing things through
the cnstom-l~ouse. The guests wl~oentrust their
lccys to the liotcl representative are saved the
trouble of liaving to appear at the custom-house
in pcrson, and can upon lunding proceed to theil*
dcsl;iastion without delay. After havillg beeu
colivcyed to the shore, all baggage is taken direct
"Chapter XVI., LK~TER FRonr UNITEDSTATES
CONSUL
J o ~ r c s xqrInWEITER,The New Pier.
Ibidom, The Broakwnter.
U Bco CliapLer VI., Hotels,
117
to the custom-house and promptly examined.
The charges are light. Table-linen, bed-linea,
made-1111 clothing, aud various articles of wearQg-
apl~arelthat 72uae 6een in use pass freely wheii
brought with the passenger. Clotl~ingsubse-
qx~e~itly imported, however, is subject to a heavy
duty. All tobacco must be declared, and an
amount exceeding four pounds in weiglit is sub-
ject to coi~fiscationand fine. Any quantity not
above .fifty grammes (about an ouilce and three-
quarters avoirdupois) is permitted to pass, and
all beyoild that dlowallce to the weight of f o ~ ~ r
~ o u n d sis adkitted subject to taxation.
It is advisable for sojo~znlers-even thong11 they
intend to relit n quiiltal and keep house for a sca-
son in Madeira-to bring as little silver, platecl-
ware, and f~~rnitnre as possible, for, while sue11
articles are admitted on bond for re-ex~ortation,
co~~siclerable trouble attaches to the effcctiag of'the
various al.rangerneiits necessary with the officials.
Ticket of Residence Requirement.-The ticket of
residence, which every new-corner is required to
hold before forty-eight hours have elapsed after
' Quinta, Portuguese for cottage ; see Chapter VI., Fur-
nished Houses ; Servanh ; Marketing.
118
T H E LANDING-PLACE AND CITY FRONT.
arrival,' call be procured by tlze manager of the
hotel a t which one is staying. It is probable that
tlze law requiring these ticlrets will ere long be
rcpealed.
When a Passport is Necessary.-The law rc-
quires that the foreigiler who is leaving Madeira
for any co~ultryexceptiilg PO]-tugalshould have
a passport if he has been on the island for a
period exceeding thirty days. One passl~ortsuf-
fices for an entire family. It call he obtaizled a t
an office in the Alfaildega on the payment of
eighteel1 huuldred reis (about $1.80 or seven shil-
lings) nild on tbo exl~ibitioaof the co11sul's cer-
tificate, wlliclz is obtaiuable of the consul repre-
senting the country to which 4116 foreigner
bclong~.
Countries having Consuls in Madeira,-T11e fol-
lowing is a List of the Consullar OiEcers in Ma-
deira in 1900 :

Germany Dr. Georg Fr. Sattler Col~sul

Austria Hongnry
Belgium Carlo de Bianchi Consul
Spain

Chaptcr XIV., A Thrilling Aclvesture; A Hair-breadth

Esonpe.
1.-7 121
Spain Carlos M. de Bianchi, Jr. Vice Consul
Denmark Charles J. Cossart Consul
United States Thomas C. Jones Consul
United States W. J. G. Reid Vice Consul
Liberia W. J. G. Reid Consul
Venezuela EIizeu deSousaDrummond Consul
France Dr. Cesw A. Mourgo PittaVice Consul
Greece -I
Italy Ferdinando M. cle Bianchi Consul
Sweden and Norway
Holland J. Ernest Blandy Consul
British John Bowring Spence Consul
British Henry Mercer Bell Vice Consul
Argentine Julio Zamorano y Gonzalez Vice Consul
Chile John H. Payne Vice Consul
Ur~iguay Carlos Luiz de Freibas Vice Consul
Russia John F. Welsh Vice Consul
Brazil Dr. C. C. Silvae Saboya Vice Consul

Modes of Conveyance,-On steppiilg ashore new

arrivals undergo their initiative experieiice wit11
the crowd of gaping natives, which they discover
hi due course of time to be omnipresent in all
streets of the populated districts. Tllc rcqui1.e-
meilts of the onstuin-house having beon drily
observed, the choice of an omaibas or of one of
the two native modes of conveyalloe to respectiv~
desti~ationssi to be made.
122
 The Redo and the Carro.-The swartliy Bearers
of the rdclel (a l~ainmoclcslung from a pole which
is supported at either end by a carrier) staid
grouped on oilc side of the thoroughfare, wl~ere
tliey "bow and scral3e'' to attract attention,
while the clrivers of the cawos2 (Bullock-cass
ino~ultedoil rlulners and hung with bright-col-
owed cartains, wliich serve to keep off the draft
aild the silll a11d can be drawn or opeiled at
pleasure) stand at the heads of their respective
liorned teams and beclcol1 to the new arrivals
with beaming connteaances, expressive of their
conficlence-wliich is rarely misplaced-of 'l se-
curing the fains."
For further information" regarding this conveyance and
the rates at which it can be hired, see Chapter VII., Where
the Rede is desirable.
Excepting several omnibuses (Chapter XVI., LETTER
FROM STATESCONSULJONESTO THE WRITER,
UNITET) Om-
nibuses), and ten or a dozen carriages imported and owned
by wealthy English residents, there are no wheeled vehicl6s
on the island, and the universal native conveyance, the carro
or sledge, was invented, in the early part of this century, by
an Englishman. Prior to the carro's introrluction, transpor-
tation was accomplished on the backs of beasts of burden and
of carriers. See Chapter XXIV., Cattle-Raising; Beasts of
Burden.
125
 Ube Zanb of tbe Ulfne
The Superior Conveyance.-Owing to ii1expel.i-
cnce, new-corners almost iavariably pass the rBde,
with curious but suspicions glance, slid select
the carro for their transportation, with a degree
of self-satisfaction which is amusing to one who
lias already leariled what they will snbscquently
discover-that the rBde is the superior convey-
ance for case and comfort, and cqually as safc as
the carro, the rBde-bearers being remarkably
powerfill and sure-footed.
Cwro Rates of Hire
Per hour in Funchal . . . . . . . . . 400 reis.
Per month, anywhere about the island. . . 60,000 "
To Camara do Lobos ancl return . . . . . 4,000 "

To S. Roque or S. Martinho . . . . . . 1,600 "

The carro is four-seated, while tile basket-car,
a much lighter conveyauce, i~ two-seated, ancl, is
preferable on excursions among steep hills. It
can often be hired on more reasonable ternia
than the carro.
A Ride through the Streets of Funcha1.-Let tllo
~aeaderstake their firat view of Ili'uucha,l streets
fiom the ca~ro,l containing the iaexl~erienced
Iron frame-work supports the top of the conveyanoc, t h e
roof of which is made of black enamelled cloth. The front
126
T H E EVER-COBBLED STREET.
new-corners. The driver darts his oven by
prodding them with an iron-yointed sticlr, a,ad a
boy runs ahead and g~lidestheir co~wseby means
of leather thollgs attachecl to the horils of olle of
the animals and grasped in each of his hands.
I t is also a duty of one of the teainsters at short
intervals to place a piece of grease-soal<ecl clot11
np011 the roadway in 8.~1~11 a position that the
rlulners of the cawo may pass over it, and thus
oil their way along. Anotller czzsto~n of the
teamsters is to lierald tile approach of their paa-
sei~ger-ladencolweyailce by a triumphant shout-
ing, which they continue almost incessantly in
atontoihiai~, ncvelt-tiring voices.
Street. Paving.--The streets are covered with
sn~all,closely paclced cobble-stones, which receive
a higli degree of polish and also considerable
grease from the l~zbl.icatedI.nnilers of the numes-
and bnclr of the cwro are hung wit11 white cotton cloth, while
the sides are curtained with a cloth of some bright colour
looped back from either side of either entrance or let to fly
loose, according to the preference of the occupant.
As the carro boy runs ahead of the oxen, or at their aide,
to jab then1 with bis prong, he cries, " Ca ca ooa ca para mi
boi I" Signifying in English, " Here, hither, oh, hither to me,
oxen I"
120
 Che Zanb of tbe ';aTCLfne
ous conveyances collstailtly passing over them.
Whcnever t l ~ egrease-rag is ~roduced,inmates of
the carro must brace theinselves for the jolt which
illvariably follows the rag's applicatioii beneath
the mnaers.
Narrow Highways,-Slipping, sliding, and jolt..
iilg along, the carro passes t111.ougll many ~ I ~ ~ T O W ,
dirty, wiliding by-ways, closely wallcd 011 either
side by squalid, one-story buildiags, a t tile doors
and wil~dowsof which the iizl~abitaatsappear to
watch the passers-by. Family parties aro intcr-
rnpted i11 the hi@-road, and must re-enter tlzcir
various abodes or flatten thelnsclves against theii)
walls to avoid being rrzn over by the goaclcd oxen.
Along the Boulevard.-sndclcnly the cailro
swings aronlid a shar13 corner and crosses nil
extensive boulevard to the shopping aide of itw
pavecl ,street, that extends along eitlicr margin of
ita elevated, tree-shadcd avenue.
Scenes by the Wayside,--Tho merry jingling of
bells on the blooded bullocks of private coilvoy-
anccs, the cries of many teamsters, aiicl the occa-
sional strains fro111 guitar, mandolin, and mnc72&~,~
thrnmmed by wayside idlers : all tl~esesorznda
--p

l Chapter XIV., Music and Musical Instruments.

130
 31'U .-,
-n3.d
@&.>
, , , , 1
v.-; J:,.~CT ':
.~
j . ...:
..,.
., .:
I,. :
, . "
. .,'.'>
.-. , '
; .

.-d.
T H E CATHEDRAL.
are in harmony with the scene, which at once im-
presses visitors as foreign and fascinating.
Shops.-Gaily painted sign-boards before the
shops attract the eye, and scrutiny discovers them
t o contail1 pictorial lists of the establishmeats'
mellchandise, wllicl~ is thus advertised to the
natives, who are rarely scl~ooledin the art of
spellii~g?
The Cathedral Externally.-At one end of the
boulevard-and facing Cathedral Spare, which
is a coatin~~atioa of the arboured avenue-stands
the C a t h e d ~ a l . ~Of semi-Gothic, semi-Italiali
archit;ectul.e, this edifice is built after the pla11 of
a Roman cross ; its single tower, rising at the
110rtl1 cori~ert o the height of one li~~i~clred and
thirteeil feet, is highly imposillg, and suggestive
of a rnoilu~neiltto a by-gone age. The aulnmit
is tlie l~oiiitof a Dutch-tiled spire, that contains
I t is now required by law that all children shall attend
public school, but the fact that the single public educa-
tional institution of Funchal numbers but one hundred and
oigl~tyscholars does not argue well for the law's enforoe-
ment,
"Chapter IV., Erection of tlie Cathedral; Bombardment
of the Cathedral ; Chapter XV., The Interior of the Cathe-
dral.
133
 Cbe "danb of tbe mine
a clock. The spire snrmouuts the battlements
of the tower, which is four-coraered, and contains
the bells. The sun's rays falliug upon the glazed
surface of the tiles cause them to shiile like bur-
nished gold, while pallll-trees sway their flower-
ing snillmits in the backgro~uld.
The Residence Quarter.-But the carro enters a
side-street, and the scene is changed.
Private Gardens.-Behind the far-stretching
stone walls, topped with ugly sl~ardsof brolrc~l
glass,l rise terraced gardens that abotllld in trop-
ical plants and flowers. Bxuberaat flowers and
foliage2 droop over their confines into the street
and fill the air with fragraace ; while occasionsll
glimpses are afforded, between the breeze-swept
trees oil the terraces, of tlie private residences to
which the gardens aly?el.tain.
The Ubiquitous Lizard,-Co~ultless little lizards3
claiilber up the stone walls and peep from betweell
the crnmbling cllinks.
These sharp fragments of glass are cemented with their
points upward into the tops of the walls to exclude tres-
pagsers.
a Chapter VII., Madeiran Horticulture; Clinpter XIX.,

Flowering Plants ; Chaptcr XXSSI., Scarlet Gerani urns.

Chapter XXVII., L ~ Z L L Y I ~ ~ .
154
A P R I V A T E RESIDENCE.
 Arrival at the Hotel.-At length tlle carro turns
another corner and ~ I ~ W1113S before the hotel.
T h e guests alight and pass fr-0111the glare of the
aunlit street through a cool, inasoilried corridor
1.0 the 11.otel office.
How 1;o avoid Sunstroke.-Having made a selec-
tion af rooms, i t is advisable to retii8e thither for
z~ resl; ere venturing oat into the tornil again.
The l)erpmdict~larrays of the Madeira11 soon-tide
e m are especially dangerous1 for the new-corner
I;o cnco~ulter: s~ulstrolceis frequently the result
of too great activity before becoming acclimated.
h thol-ongli 1.eeuperatioa ill the shady gardens
dmbing the mid-day hours is recommended.
Diet for the New-Corner.-Great care and mod-
cl-ation as t o the diet should also be observed.'
M c s t o u g l ~ tnot to be eaten oftener than twice a
(lay, and one should also be abstemious in par-
i.zllting of native wines and filuits.
.---- -
l Chapter VII., Where the Rbde is desirable; Chapter
X.I., I-Iumidity ; Air.
"Chapter XI., Health, and how t o keep it.
 CHAETER V1
STEAMSHIP ROUTES TO MADEIRA ; ISOTELS AND
BOARDING-ISOUSES I N THE TOWNS AND VIL-
LAGES.

aeeenger Steantete, -Amollg the

largest and ill every way first-class
passcsger lines whose steamers call at
Madeira1 are the following.

Steamers from New York.-X-Iamnburg-America11

Line. Office: No. 37 Broadway, New Yorlr.
The "Auguste Victoria," a twin-screw express
The writer has selected certain of the representative lilies
for description to show the various countries from which Ma-
deira can be reached direct. H e does not believe a detniled
account of every line whose vessels call at Madeira woulcl be
of sufficient value to justify the necessary increase in the bulk
of this vol~~me.A complete list of the regular lines oP
steamers to Madeira will, however, be found in Cllnpfer
XVI., under the heacling of '(An Account of Madeira ia
1897," by United States Consul Jones.
138
steamer of this line, offers transportatioll to Ma-
deira at the elld. of every January, when it starts
011 its annual cruise to the Orient. I t s gallant
colnmander,Carl Kaernpff,"i a11 able and efficient
seal~lan,m d one of the several famous captains
of tllc transatlalltic liaers. A t ally time of the
year a delightfnl voyage can be had by an express
atcamer of this line to Southampton. The day of
clepnrturc is Thursday, and arrival at Sonthamp-
toil i~ due on tlie same day of the following meek.
The stcainers of the Uilioil Steainship Conlpauy
ancl the Castle Mail Packets Company maintain,
jointly, a weekly service from Sout11au3ptoa to
Gape Town, Africa, callil~gat Madeira 011 the
third or fourth. day out. (Sec Lines from Eng-
la11d t o Madeira.) As the day of sailiug fiom
8011tl1,zinpton is usually Saturday, the passengers
albriving from America 011 Thursday can make
comfortable coanection. Should the traveller
(Icsire a more direct route, however, or prefer
t o make the entire voyage from N e ~ vYork to
n/md.eira througl~southern seas, the followillg
may be recommended to his attention.
I'ior7c.-Insular Navigation Colxpally.
Q a c e : No. 20 Broadway, New Y0l.l~. Adoll~h
139
Falck, gei~cralpassenger agent. Pnsscngers for
Madeira arc traasfer1.cd at St. Michael or Fayal,
of the Azores Islands, by t l ~ cstcamcla of the
Insular Navigation Cbmpany's Madci~saservice,
whicli sail a~ follows : from Fagal 011 the 28th of
every rnoi~th; froin St. Micllacl on the 30th of
cvcry month.
Passengers booli.ed t h r o ~ g hto Lisboil have the
privilege of remaining on the Azores at their
leisnibc, talcixlg t l ~ ecompany's stcall~erfor Ma-
deira, and thencc continuing t11eil1jounley t o Lis-
bon when ready; ill thic; case, how eve^, yasseilgcrs
~nnintninthcmselvcs while on slloia.
Rates fvonz, New TTorlc
Firs1 Cnbin.
To tllo Azores . . . $50 = $10 6s. Gd.
.
. . 75 = 15 8a.
To Mnclcirn via Azores
To Lisbon . . . . . 76 = l5 8s.
.
It is c~zstoin~ry
to malic a reduction of five per
cent. fro111 i11c above ratcs for round-trip cabin
ticltcts if tllcso are ~?nrcl~ascd11efo~ol.eclel>zlrturc
fionz New Porlc.
Tbo voyage fro111 New Yorle to tlie Azolles
occupies from. eight to iliile days, and Chat fi-0111
t11,e Azores to Madeira froni one to two days.
140
Madeira, t h ~ l s~nakinga weekly service. These
vessels call at the island 011 their way homewai~cl
duriilg tllc molltha of April, May, and J~111e.
Rates
First Cabin. Second Cabi11.
From London to Madeira .$16 16s. A10 10s.
(=$76.62) (=$51.08)
From Madeira to London . %l2 12s. 28 8s.
(=$61.32) (=$40.91)
Round trip . . . . . . $25 10s. $17 OS.
(=$124.05) (=$82.79)
A reductioii of ten per cent. is made from the
two single fares if a retm*nticket is talcen at the
time of starting. Thc above arc charged
by the mail steamers; the rates by the intermedi-
ate steamcrs are slightly lower.
The voyage froin Englaland to Madeira occupies
from thrcc and a half to four days.
During the inollths of J L I ~July,
C , and Angust
special fares are charged to tomrists and excep-
tional facilities are aflered. Application should
be made to tlze Uaioll Colnyany in Lolldoll.
Agents in, F~uzc7~nZ.-Messrs. Blandy Brotl~ers
& Co., wit11 whom all llassengers should cornmu-
nicatc regarding tlieir borths in the homeward
steamers.
142
 Lonclb~z.-The Castle Mail Packets Company,
Limited ; Donald, Currie & Co., managers.
Offices: Nos. 1, 2, 3, and 4 Feacharcli Street,
Loadoa; 15 Cross Stitet, Mancl~ester;34 Castle
Street, Liver11001; 137 West George Street, Glas-
gow. Agents : Blaildy Bros. & Co., Madeira;
Miller & Co., Las Palmas.
One of the Royal mail steamers of this com-
pally leaves Lolldoll for Madeira every alternate
Friday, sailing from Southamptoll oil the fbllow-
ing day. The voyage occupies about three ancl
one-half dayS.
Rates of Passage
First Class. Second Class. Third Class.
Guineas Guineas Guineas
Single tickets froin England
to Madeira . .. .. 15 10 G
(=$76.62) (=$51.08) (=$30.68)
Return tickets, good b r six
months, between England
m

ancl Macleira .. . .. $25 10s. 317 OS. S11 6s. 9cl.

(=$124.05) (=$82.79) (455.21)
Guineas Guineas Guineas
Single holnewarcl fares fro~n
Madeira to England . .. ' 12 8 6
(=$61.32) (=$40.91) (=$30.68)
Retnnl ticlcets to Madeira are available for
rctu1.n from Grand Caaary (Las Palmas).
There is cornrn~zaicatioabetween Madeira, Las
543
 Ulhe Zlztttb of the Wntite
Palrn:~~, Tcllcl-inTu, ~ ~ olhor u d 1)orts OS tho C1~11it1ty
gllozzp, thus zllTordillg ovory fi~,cilityfor oxto~~dccl
toniw.
Paascngci~sdcsiring to cml,arlc at Houtll:unl)t,ol~
uro A~r~rljshed. \vit;h Dco ~~ailwi~y tickets li-ollz Ply-
11loul11or Zontlon to Sout1innll)ton b y tllu ~1)cr:i:~l
C C C~st10"C X ~ ) ~ ~ lC~~t H l g t ~ t ~ ? r112l; ~1.1.40
~ v, i iW o A.M.
cVCl*yltltcl'llUtC 8Lbtlll'llily. IIOl\l~~tll'd l)LIHHC.I1$!J1l'R
lalltliug tlt Moz~ll1a1r1l1toil 2111.iorc~uivoSrco ~'t~ilway
t ickols t o 'I~o~~iloll or l'lymouth.
IJcngtdl of 1)narr:tgo li'ou~Ho~zt;hnnll)to~~ to Mrk-
tli!ira i~ uboul tliibooancl l l ~ ~tluye. lf
l'lic! ~tc?i~,~ncre of' lllirj l i i ~a ~ * 1lursu1ll)nu~i!t1
o ill
tllo ~xreolloucc!01' their uoc:oniulodut,ion~, illoiu
lik)c!ral ittl)lo, and c!u~bc:fr~l t~ltcndnnco.
Uhcul,) rlcttuian tic~lcol;~ Solt t,onltiljter to Mntloiluu
tlr*r! ~HHZLO(Iby 111~) CUHIIC!Li IIO livm ttllo lot11 o f
Sullo to t11u Stl of Hcl'tc?mbux*.
from Liverpool every alternate Wodilesday for
the west coast of Africa, oalliilg at ~adeirira.ol
~oute. The voyage lasts about six days.

Rates
First Cabin. Second Cabin.
From Liverpool to Madeira . . . . . . £10 &G
(=$48.70) (=$29.22)
Rouud trip (ticket; good for twelve months) 615 612
(=$58.44)
(=n3.05)

Agents in Func7~aZ.-Messrg. Blai~clyBrothers

& Co.

Steamers from the Canary Islands.-Steamers of

t l ~ eBritish and African Steain Navigation Com-
pally stop at Santa Cnl: in Teneriffe.
Rates
First Cabin.
From Santa Cruz, Teneriffe, to Fuuclzal, Madeira $14.61
(=g31

ateamers from Portugal.-Lisbo~~.-Ernp1~e~a111-

sulalla de Navegac%o.
A stcsliner of this line leaves Lisbon on the 20th
of every iuoiith and rcaclies Madeira on the 22d.
I.--8 146
 G'he 2Lai1b of the Wine
OfIices : Oaes do Sodrd, NO. 84, Lisbon.
Messrs. Ficlclio de Freitas Branco e fo, G 1 Rua
do SabSio, Fanclial, agcnts.

Zl;isBo~~.-E1n1)rczil Nuciollal do Nzlveg~o&o

par" AGlica.
8tc:~mcrsof tlzis dompany ~czlvoI~isborlon the
6th of tlro mont11,arriving at Mt~dcirt.l,
011 t l ~8tl1.
?
Officc~: 8u,z Fci*rcgial do Cimta, No. 4, Lis-
bon. Mcssrs, Dlaudy 13rothcl*s,lina da Alfaa-
dcga, Funohall agonts.
.Itate8
Irlrat Cnbin.
Froiu Lisbon lo Matloirtt . . , , . . . $29,22 C-&G)

From Paria t o Li~lbonby Ra,il,-l'ho journey from

Paria to Madrid ~nrby1)o tnlrcli l)y inilway, and
occul~icathirty-five liaurs, '3'11~t~+il)
from Madrid
to Lisbon can X30 rrlnc10 colzlfortubly by rail in
about thirty-ono hours,
XaEca
From Paris to Nndrid, by rnil . . . t40.91 (=g8 as,)
From Mnclriil to Lisbdn, by rail . . . 618.G1 ( ~ $ 31Gs.)
140
 Steamers from Belgium.-flntzoerj3.-Lamport
and Holt (River Plate Line).
These steamers are deslmtclled fkom Antwerp
(calling at London, Southampton, and Lisbon)
about the 1st and 15th of the moilth. They
~ ~ s n dcall
l g at Madeira, and are well furnished and
punct ~zal. The voyage, inclnding tllc deligl~ tful
trip through Holland on the river Scheldt, occu-
pies about tea days.
Bates
Plrst Cabin.
Prancs
From AllCwerp to Madeira . . 324 =$Gl.lG =&l2 11s. 4d.
Rotincl trip .. . . . . . 500 = 94.40 = 19 7 4

GERMANY
FROM TO MADEIRA
Steamers from Germany.-T1a1nburg.-Wormann
Linie. About five times a movtll steamers of
this cornpally leave Il[amburg for thc Wcst Afri-
can coast. T11e stealner that leaves Hamburg
on the 10tli of every month calls at Plymouth
if sufficient iadnccmeilt offers, and at Madeira.
Every vessel of t1fe liilc calls at Madeira on the
retuni voyage. The passage from Ilamburg to
Madeira occupics about iliile days.
1-47
 Agents of the lines in Madeira and Grand
Canary, Blalldy Brotl~era& Co. ; in Tenerifle,
anl lilt on & Co.
Rutes
F11%1Cabin.
Marks
From FIambnrg to Madeirx. . 200 =$47.68 =S9 18s. 761.
Round trip . . . . . . . . 320 = 7G.21 -16 18 2
Ib

IIunzbuqy.-Hamburg-Siidamerikaniscl~e
A steamer of
Da~~~~pfse1~iflfal~rts-Gesellscl~tlft.
this line sails every Wcdlleaday fro111 T-Jambnrg
to the Brazils via Li~bon,once montllly to~zching
at Madeira outward; and on the Ist, loth, and
20th of every month fiom Hamburg to the Iiivcr
Plate and to the Parana via Madeira. Whcll
l~omcwarclbo~uldnearly all its steamerfi; call at
TeneriEe.
Bates
Blrst Cabin.
Mnrlctl
From Hnmnburg to Madeira . . 380 =$88.88 =,C17 28. 3cl.

Steamers from France.--EIav?-e and BonZenux,--

Chargenrs RB~ulis. Agents : Blantly Ijrotliers
&a Co., Madeira ; Hardisson l$kcs, Tencrifle.
~ e s s &of this line sail twice moutlrly fiarn
Havre and every aecond month from Bordeaux,
148
and stop invariably at Madeira on the llomeward
voyage. The intermediate ports are Gibraltar,
'Malaga, and Barceloaa.

Rates
Fare home Born Madeira ... . 250 francs = $48.65 = £10
Return tickets are good for twelve moatlzs.
Pamilics of four persons are entitled to a reduc-
tion of five per cent.

Nc~~seiZ1es.-SociBtB G6nBsale de Transports

Maritimes it Val3enr. Offices: No. 8, Rue Me-
nars (Rue du 4 Septembre), Paris; No. 3, Rue
des Templiers, Marseilles. Agents : M. A. Silva
Paasos, Madeira ;I'iijos de Juail Yaaez, Teneriffe;
Miller & Co., Grand Canary.
A vessel of this line sails from Marseilles on
the 25th of every month for Madeira, calling a t
Bal.colona, Malaga, aid Gibraltar en I-oute. Rates
can be obtaii~ectby apljlication to tlle home offices
or to tlze agencies.
The Maritime Signal Tower.-There is an old
tower, wbicll from a distance resembles a light-
house, that stailds on the beach near the main
to the city. It was erected by one Ban-
eatra-~~ce
149
ger, an English merchant, during the years 1796-
98, at a cost of one tllousand three hui~dl'edaild
fifty-five pounds, for the p~ulposeof unloading
vessels. I n tllc begiiiliiiig of the aineteenth ccn-
tury there was so little beach at the city fifi.0nt
that
vessels could approach to where the towcl' now
@ands, a collsiderable distance removed B.om the
7ivatw's edge. The tower is at presellt nsccl by
Messrs. Blaildy Brotliers & Co. as a signal-station.

The New Hotel.-Mr. William Reid is tho pro-

prietor of the fhrno~~s
Reid I-Iotels, eaiablielied in
the year 1850, by appointmeilt of 11.R. 11. l;he
Duke of Eclii~burgh. The Ncw Hotel is sit;n,ztcd
in a garden of several acres on the cli Ks to the
west of F~ulchal,oil the new ~ o a d ovcrloolriilg
l
the sea, and commandii~gan extensive view of
the mouatains. There is a bungalow in thc
hotel garden, ancl there are good aca-bathing
and boatil~g.~

l LETTER
Chapter XVI., FROM UNITED S T A T ~OONAUX~
B
TO THP WRITER,
JONES The New Road, the only Love1 Road.
Boating is described in Chapter VIII., Caves.
150
T H E M A R I T I M E SIGNAL-TOWER.
T H E NEW HOTEL.
 Boat Hire.-Boats can be hired at the following
rates.

Two-oared boat . . . . . 400 reis per hour.

Pour-oaredboat . . . . . 600 " " "
16 c( (r
. . . . . 2 5 5 0 a " day.
The Royal Edinburgh Hotel,-This fine house
was Mr. Rcid's first hotel; l~eilceit has been the
longest under his maaagemellt.
The cl~argesare fiom fifty thousand reis per
mo11tl1 upward.
The hotel is situated sear the New Pi~blic
Gardens allcl not far removed fiom the sca. It;is
carried on under tl?e persollal au~~~e~visioa of Mr.
Reid.
The German Hotel.-This house also belongs to
Mr. Reid; it is under the inanagemeat of Snr.
Francisco N~mes,who speaks German.
It is situated on the Rua das Hortas and is
snrro~uldeclby a beautif~~l garden.
The cl~argesare the same as those of the Royal
E d i l l b w g l ~Hot,el, and include meals and services.
Brealcfast is aerved at nine 07clock, table d'ltirte
al; two o'cloclc, and snpper at seven o'clock.
The Hotel Miles Carmo,-This hotel, another of
153
Mr. Reid's, oillers cxcollollt :~ccommodation~.XI,
is situated in the caster11 scct,iou of tho town nild
has ail attxlactivo gnrdcli.
The cha~gosaro f~*om fifly tlion,s~~nd to ciglltly
tliousaad iaeisper monlh.
Hotel Santa Clara,--Thi~ is ono of tho l:~l'g,rost
allil finest 11otols in 171111~11lltl1, .It stai1tlt-r on lligll
grouucl zliid overlooks tlic cily und l l i ~ l ~ b ~ Mll. l~r*
Reid is thc proyrictolb,
The charges arc f-om six2,y ~ ~ I O U R I L IrI (~~ : i1111- ~
ward, according to lhc locction ~lrlrlH ~ X U01' l , 1 ~ )
YooinB. This rzttc! iucludcs tllo z l ~ oof t,llc! l)til)lic!
rooms in tho bomsr!, lights, ao~*vic:o~, anrl. inc~lu,
Suitcs of raorns may be engi~~$c!cl nlid n~culrjti~l;rt11
in 1)rivato by nrrangomcn l.
Thc! rlini~~g-~*ooilz ~ctrviccsaro early lc?aor c!tifli!c
a t M O V C I 0'010ck,
~ X)i*onlcrZC~t ~ 1nir10
; o'(!locl<,lu~lullw
con a t orle o'cloclc, ndlcrnoon tca at; ll~~lf' ELILc;~to1111
o'cloclc, nxlcl tliiincl*a t ~ e v o xokloclc.
~
Jonests Hotel, Bella Vista."--?'lli~~ 110t~l 1111~
bocn ~~cceiitly ianovutod with xnotlorri illll)ltovc\-.
mcnts. 3Ct~aztnitnry i ~ p l ~ o i n t ~ nalto c n tv~!i*ygood.
It is F I i ~ ~ f i ill
t ~ dt l ~ oini(l~t;of II ,gpl~tl(!ilor t , l l l ~ ~ ~
acres m ~ dat U l ~ o i g l ~oft ollo l~untli~erl tm(l lil1,y
fb1; above act\-level, X1 comii~aails8 q)lcndid.
181
view of F lxl~chuland of the ocean, and has broad
tennis-caul-ts and other arrai~gementsfor pleas-
aal;ly spending the time. I t is about tell minutes'
.walk Dom the Eaglish club. It has a souther11
aspect and contains large suites of airy rooms.
P a ~ t i c u l a ratteiltioil is paid to invalids.
Special rates call be obtaiiled b y guests who
couteml>latea protracted stay. All steamers are
inet b y t h e proprietor, Mr. Eugene G. Joaes,
who will cngage quintas or servants, or give any
i ~ ~ f o r m a t i ot ou families, 011 receipt of a telegram
or letter requesting him ao to do.
Aooommodations away from Funcha1.-Persons
who ii~tcnclto prolong their stay at Madeira mould
do well to make a special al*rangemei~twith the
pi'oprietor of some iiilst-class hotel in Funchal for
accomlnodations to be paid for only when occu-
pied. T h u s F u n c l ~ i may l be made the visitors'
b e a d - q ~ ~ a r t e rand
s , excursions therefrom can be
1;alcent o t h e various localities of interest throngh-
o u t thc island or the entire island group. The
b e ~ptu b l i c houses at which to stop in the adjacent
country are pel-hal)s the following.
Lodging at Boa ~entura.-At the wine-ehop of
R, ccrtnin Manoel Carvclho lodging can be had on
165
 &be Iaizb of tbe Wflze
the paymeat of about niiiclccil li~zndredroia ])er
day.
Lodging at Santa Cruz.-The csc~ll@nt llotcl at;
this place, the I-Iotol Suiita, Crnz, is clcacribod at
~ o i n clcilgth in Ch~zptcrV111.
Lodging at SB;o Vicente.-'l'l~i~ villngc is VQV
ceat~all y aituntccl nlld witliirl cnsy acocss of Izuny
placos or iatcrcst. A ccommo~lat~ion c:ln I)(! h i d
a t llic house of Snr. Dinia.
Lodging at Rabaga~,-rl'l~csc graild. w&f;~?r-.hll~~
call bc roachccl by an overlnzzil ronto li.olu 8&0
Vicciito. Tho tonr*ist can oithur loxlt OIIC hcxlu or
may, pelhap~,Tor a sinall Toe, bo 1~1110to obtain
nccom~.uodation~ a t $11~~ I ~ Z ~ HOPC ?t l ~ C: I I ~ ~ I I C C I * ,
who ilwclla close Ily. If loclgiug with the on-
ginccr*i~ dcsi~nd., l~owcvcl;it i~ aclvisnbla to 01)-
Lniii written l)errnisaion in I~'uzicha1bcforohuncl a t
Obra,s Publicas, IZuu (10 8. Pcclra.
Lodging at Santa Anna,-Lodging orLn l)o Ilnd
at thc lrousc oC Snr. Acciaioli at tliu ruts of two
thousand ~ c i a17ci8clay,
Lodging at Seixa1,-'Donna M, l h o i t n ~t u~l c o ~
boardolbwul; a chargo QC two 1;Xlou~antll r o i ~])or day,
Ohnptox*XVSJ,, Enbnpnl.
W l ~ a p ~ XVJT.,
or 8aixn1, nntZ (;l10 rond thithar,
100
 Except i11 the last-named place, and a t Santa
Crnz, it is advisable to have oae's own food sup-
ply, as the dietary of tlie natives of tlie illlaild
villages, where fish is not to be had at a momeiltys
notice, is not dwnys acceptable to the fastidious
Alnei*icailor European.
Whenever an excursiol~is pla~lnedto any of
the foregoing places, the visitor should previously
send word of his intention, either by mail or b y a
rnnner, to the house at which he intends to lodge.
This should be done i11 order that the rooms
desired may be clearcd of the insect pop~zlatioa
whicli sonletirnes illhabit them wheil they are not
in use, or if they are in use to give the occuq~ailts
a chance t o vacate temporarily.
Private English Houses.-Inlmediately opposite
the west gate of the new Public Gardens ia
F~ulchalstailds the Park IIouse, where those who
are seeking a quiet and colnfortable liolne life are
likely to be suited. The Smarts, an English
fabily, are residents a t tliis honse and loolr after
the wants of the boasders. Mr. Smart may be
addressed as to terms and sl~ecialarraagemelzts
for a long stay.
There are several otlier private houses whore
157
select boarders are received. These inay be found
ul)on inq~liry.
Furnished Housesa-There are in Fnnchal and
its vicinity lnnily f~~rnished qi1int;as (houses) wit11
b e m t i f ~ ~gardelis
l attached, which call be rented
by E1111ilies who prekr this mode of rcsidcncc to
living in hotels or at boardidg-houses. In aucli
casca it has oftea beell fo~ulddcsil.able t o llavc a
trnsty servant fiom hoinc, to ovcrsce tha native
servants, in the capacity o f housekeepcr.
servants,-ScrvaiItsl arc gcne13:~llyllircd by the
month, aild wagw vary as follows :
'Wages
Rntcs par Month.
.
Errand- or kilohen-boy . 3,000 to 4,000 rois."
I-Iouse-maid. .. . . . . . . 6,000 <'
. . .
Unclcr house-mnitl . . . . 3,000 "

Mall cook . . . .. , . 8,000 10 11,000 "

Wailer . . . ..
. , . 8,000 to .11,000 "
Waitress ... . , . . 6,000 10 G,000 <'
. .
Ht~mmoclr-bearer . . . . . 0,400 "l'

l Tho propor trontmont of sorvnnla is discussod in ChnpLor

XIV., 1111dor the llending Good Mtlanors,
a One thousnnd rois are pi*ncGicnllyequivnlenl;to one clollnr,
or something over tlireo ~hillings. See Chapher XVI., Cur-
rency Denoininalions anil Approxi~naloEyuivelonLs.
l' A completo inble of rales will bo found in C1inl)Ler VII.,

How the BDda ~lhouldbe hired.

1158
 At the foregoing rates of wages food in the
house is expected.
Drinking-Water.-The only good drinking-water
conles from springs in the rock fouadations of the
govenlor7s palace, and the outlets for the watei.,
under the main front of the edifice, are called
As Fojztes cle JoZo Dinix.l T11ence water shotzlcl
be brongllt daily, and a large earthen jug is the
vessel usually employed for the purpose. The
hammock-bearer (if paid eleven thousand five
1.1undrcd rcis per month, which are the usual
wages for gardening, marketing, house-cleaning,
a i d errand-r~ulning,besides hammock-bearing2),
eia1-nnd-boy, or cook inay be sent on this mission.
The Cook.-Portuguese cooks are mastcrs of
their art. One of the most f a r n o ~ sof Portuguese
dishes is bponge-cake (pZo cZe Zd). No one call
eq11a1 a P o r t u g ~ ~ e cook
s e in making sponge-cnlce.
There are lllally other aative delicacies wl1ic.h it
is worth while allowing the cook curie hlclnc7ze to
inalre.
Marketing.-Temptation to be dishonest con-

' Chapter VII., As Pontes de JOB,, Dinjz.

a Ch~pterVII., How the R6de should be hired.
169
 Ghe Znltl, of tbe Wltfltc
fronts the sarvant wlzc) clou~tllo iiznl*lcc!lixlg. Smrh
being thc case, a liut 0E t11(! vi&l1i0ll~ l \ 4 ~ ' ( ; i1)ur-
~l~~
chnsablo in ilzo mni~lcc!tsis givolz 0x1 t l ~ followiilg !
page, wit11 their J)I*C)I)OI' J)X'~C:CR:~11(1I ' O Y ~ U ~ I I C H O
nainas following tliu .IBuglimli rluillcs :~Xl)liu,l)eli-
c ~ l l yi~rraiigo(1.
Market Value of Uornrnodities, -.-'17hu tvoigllt, i~
oxpl*es8ctl I)y tlw Irilo, iLrl :~1)11rc1~ii~t,ion li)r liilo-
grnlnnla, wllioll is orluivalc,tll; t,o 2.204 lloull~ln
avoil*rlnl)ni~,
Clubs and Libraries.-'I'burs (L liile 1hgli~lk

Club in t,ho 1t11:~tln Alli~rltlc:g~b, ol'~vllic!liil, i~ clu-

sirnl~la.hb c!vc!l*y.1411gIi~llancl hulo~*ic!ilr v~il~itor
to bocomo n, rnc~nl1~!1* tvllilu irk &l':~(ll~il~t~, I i 7 0 r 11o1*o
nre to bc rnot tllo 1)1*ot~liil~ll, I'c!H~(~~!II(,H, 11,11(1 t,llc)
xncnlX,cr'a o f the 12ngli~11c!o1011y in l ~ t l ~ l v l ~UII~U r~,l
1110st tluligl~t~fi~l l)oolble, 'llc:u i~ ~t:i*vc!tllr~t+trirk ~ l l u
~ ~ f t ~ r ~ i owcl )~ii~c ,li~
~ [L tilno of ~~~c\~:t,ing* f'c)ls L h
nlulnbo~~s.r.lll~uai~vyi~n(1.~ v o l l - t ~ ~ ) ~ ) ol ~i ~i l~l itt cb ~~ ~( (l l
and i*occ?l)tiolz~looiw t ~ r l t l u l il)xbttl*ycol)[t~,i~~ing
sama fl)a~*t,l~o~~~t~,ilcl, (iyrc: ~ I I I I ~ ~ . I YOIIIII~(~B
'C\C~ ~1~1,(1
matol~iullyto tlio cmrn Ii)llt csl' tllu CI ILI)-II~IINO, 'l'h~j
fl0~0lxd~b'Jl(1t;hil'd M ~ , E ) I ' ~ U011
H t1119 H C ) I I ~H~ ~~ I C ~11O3C)lll-
rneucl ti,n uxculllaat; viow of tlla buy, 9'110 mum-
b e ~ ~ h i~l~)L Z1~1'0
C R llllloo llloilua~idr a i ~pull 111011111.
It10
 Gbe Zanb of tbe Ultne
The C l ~ l bF~ulchalenseis the fashionable Por-
tugnese social organizatiou, and here one meets
the vative aristocrats. Afternooiz recel>tionsand
balls are held here d ~ ~ r i the
i ~ gseason of social
gayeties, and for the foreigner who ia stayii~g5t
coilsiderable time in the town it is a very pleasaat
club to beloag to.
Other Portugueao clubs of good standing are
the Club RestauiaG%oand the Associag%oCom-
mercial.
A German library coililccted with the German
hotel at the I-Iortas has some niiletecil hundred
volumes.
The Mz-ulicipal chamber has a libl.al-yof about
seveilteeil hundlad and eighty-live v01~unes,the
majority of which are worlcu on theology. Free
access is had to this-library, but, as the books
are all in Portngnese, they arc of little intc~est
to the average Ei~glishor Ainericall visitor.
 EXCURSIONS ABOUT PUNCHAL AND XN THE
VICINITY

he mount Cburch,--The first few days

after arriving at Pniichal Inay be well
speilt in visiting the various points of
interest i11 t h e town and sawounding districts.
Tlze Mouiit Chnrcl~,oue of the first bnildiags
observable fi~omthe sea, is inva~*iably visited by
the passing voyager who has but a few houils to
n ~ e i ~ind the island erc ret~vniagto his on-going
vessel.
Railway and Tramway.-While forme]-ly the
ascent was to be accoml~lishedonly by the aid of
a, horse, cayro, or r$dc, there has recently been
coast~~ucted a railway-known as Caminlio de
Ferro do Monte-from the Polnbal (ten niinutcs'
walk from the beach, and ~ w d l e dby a tramway
ruaning from the laildiilg pier) to the momiit's
s~xlnmit,and the ascent coats but two hundred
and forty rcis (about twcnty-fonr cents, or one
sl~iilliag,accolrdiag to the vargiilg rates of ex-
1.4 103
 Gbc Znttb of tkc Utllllte
chai~gc),~ and tllo i~onndtril) tlzlwo I~unrL~od roi~
(aboat thirty ocnts, or 0.110 ~llilling:m(1 ~III'CO-
1)cncc). Thcro arc f ~ ~ ~j o~v uo nt o ti\n l,l*ainriLI,
ilny, alld. ~ l l o ~on~ Snnday~
o ~ ~ l u1101
f . i(li~,y,.i.
Sledging down the ~ount,-'I?llotlg11 it; is ntlvis-
abla to c~nyloytllc r:~il~vay :m i~ znenriu oF oon-
vcyancc to the ~ u u l m i l tho , 1)lctl~ur~ia of 1110 11upitl
dcacent; in wicliel- ~ l c i l g cnlltt~t
~ 11i)t 1 ~ fi)i*g0l;f;i!11,
1

for it wnM to nvnil tho~n~clvc!so f t 1 1 1 ~~Htr~iigo

amusclncnt that n~allyv i ~ i t o rfi~i)l't~t(~l*ly
~ ILHC~~I~(~C(~.
tlio inotn~l;, !I1llo ohui*cli,wllic:l~W ~ L H~:l*r!(!l,c:d ~~l)oltt,
tllc ycnr 1.470, i~ tloilic?atutl to ()irr Ltttly of' t,lli\
d ~ ~ u h ~ ) t(No..iss
i o n Hoahol*:~do Monl,o), i~
u two-sl)irc:(l.ctli lice, ~i tvt~t,citlail Il ~ c ~i(11!
t oC n M,cv!l)
hill or ino~~nl; :LI; all c~luvi~tio~~ oL' ~ritioluc~rl ll~liitl~~i!cl
I l
~t1lc1eixly-fivo fcol; nbovrt ~c!a-l~!vc$l. l 110 1n:bi11
~ o ~ ~ ~
L!ll~l'iLll~O [L ~l Ol k l~l O~~ h~~~j lbl' ~
~l~ l~i - O~~ ~~~ ~ ~ l ' t l ~ ! ~ , C
view of tllo c?it,yt~,lltllitirl)c)111*,11, i~ r c ~ : ~ , ( ~[ i lb ~o ~~r ~~ t l .
tho strcci; by u fliglll; of ~isly-c?igllLH ~ , V ~ ) H ,A ( : ~ o s ~ H

' Whilo tlla oliiciul rnlu of oxolin~igoia four thtlltu*a r ~ u du

l ~ ~to~ lOVOPY
f 1wo11Iy ~llillillg~, L110 ~~~~olIic:iitl, or ~ ) I I I * ~ I I U H ~ I I K
powor, rala is co~~sl&ilLIy vltryi~lg1)uLwoon iivo IIIOIINLLI~~ 11,11(1
NIX t h o i i ~ i ~x*(!i~ ~ l L110 1)01111(1 ~ l ~ r l i l iCtwc)~~by
~ ~ 10 g ~liillir~gu).
Eao Clznplor XV,IC,, Clirrranoy l d ~ ~ n o m i n n l , i r rnncll ~ ~ Apl)roxi-
mala Equivt~louls.
104
 ..-. ...

!. " - .
I..

,. . . . . .

R U N N I N G SLEDGE A N D MOUNT R A I L W A Y .
 Excur0ion~about rltnchal
the road is a " P. V. B." ( p & win710 Born, bread
and good wine 011 tlle premises), or wbe-shop,
whence tile mount sledges1 (carros) start on their
downward route by the straight, cobble-paved
Monte road (cawo-fare, two hundred and fifty
rois per persoil). To excursionists trudging
komcward from some mo~ultainclimb or explor-
ing tour to the aorth of the island, it is a relief
to come up011 the Rlollte road with its meails of
r a ~ i dtrailsit to their destination. The sledges
seat two persons, and their conductors can be
ellgaged to meet a party r e t ~ ~ r a i nby
g way of
the Mount Church. A courier Inay be despatched
al~eadto lnalce all ilecessary arrangements.
Legend of the Fountain.-The natives believe
that a t a fountail1 near the church the Virgin
Mary appeared and performed a miracle some two
hundred years ago. The &adition is that during
,z famine2 which threatened tlle island, when the

Tho mount sledges are padded and cushioned, have

heavy wooden runners, and are so expertly guided that an
accident is a rare occurrence. The sensation felt during their
rapid descent is like that of American tobogganning or coast-
ing, or, again, like riding on a switchback.
a Chnpter XIV., Famine; Chapter XVI., Density of the

Population.
167
priests led the illhabitants of F ~ ~ n c hin
a la proces-
sion to the Church of the Virgin and there made
su~pylicationfor food, a grain-laden vessel came
into the bay. The half-famished people 1.nshcd to
the shore and welcomed the crew, who, the tra-
dition continues, said that their ship had been
drawn to the island through a dead calm by a
marvello~~s figure ill white. The priests con-
fil-mcd the belief that it was the Virgin who had
brought the ship illto port when they discovered
her graven image, that staszds upoll the altar of
the C~ILIL'C~I,t o be dripping wit11 sea-water.
Feast of the Assumption.--The Feast of the As-
sumptioa is still observed at the Monslt C h ~ r c h
on tho 14th and 16tB of evelayAugust, and tho
ilatives floclr thcre from all parts of the isIa11d,
always treating the day of the feast as a holi-
day.' The celebratioa begills 011 the 14th of
A L I ~ LatI Sl10011
~ a11d ends 011 the 15th a t noon,
as in the Rotnan Churcl~days are always counted
ill this inaimer.
The disinterested sight-seer does not linger
---
l Chapter XV., FBte-Dt~ys and Religious CulebrnLions;
Chapter VII., A s in Biblical Days ; Chapter XIV., Religious
Life; Biblical Clustoms.
1G8
A VALLEY OF T H E INTERIOR.
 Ercuretone about $uncbaI
within the chnrch, for its interior c l e c o ~ ~ tare
io~~
unattractive, consisting in a few wretchedly exe-
cuted pai~ltingsof a mournful though rvligioious
character.
A View of the Interior.-A walk of seven min-
utes along the paved road running to the a s t of
the church brings the pedestrian to a point cnm-
manding the most extensive view of the wild and
rugged interior to be had in the vicinity of Fun-
chal.
The Little Curra1.-Far below, through the moun-
tain fastnesses, winds the ravine of the Ribeira
de Jo%oGornes. Near the point where the forks
of its stream (Riheira)' converge is situated a.
branch of the Curral dos Romeiros (Fold for the
Pilgrims) or Little Curral. To the westward,
where the Cabo Girgo mountains pierce the
clo~zds,the scene is wild and picturesque. To
the eastward, where the lofty chains of the Pal-
heiro extend their forest-covered sides and mist-
crowned summits, the aspect is equally grand and
rugged.
Ribeira is the name by which both the exten~veravine
and its stream are called. Ribeiro designates the amall
stream and ravine.
171
 Uhe Zanb of the Wine
Pico do Areeiro.-A long but delightf~llexcur-
sion which leads past the Mount Church is that
to the Pico do Areeiro, one of the towering peaks
of the ceiltral mo~uitainridge. It rises to a height
of five thousand eiglzt hulidred and ninety-three
feet above sea-level, and comlnands a most ex-
tensive view of the island's remarkable coafor-
mation.
A unigl~ty cllaos of mountains1 and ravines
stretches below, away and afar ;and abysses that
seem t o reach into the centre of the earth suggest
the entraace to the infernal regions, as described
by Dailte. It is a n awe-inspiriag sight, this co-
lossal, volcanic upl~eaval,and especially so wheil
seen a t sunrise or sunset. A t either the bcgin-
iiillg or the close of the day the great boulders
and cliffs glow fiery red like living coals, 2nd the
basalt sides of thc precipices shine as with the
gleam fiom a mighty subterranean fire. There
are rnotneilts when the entire isloild seems
w l ~ ~ l ~ pille da vast coi~flagration,and the effect
2111011 the bellolder is strange aiid startling be-
yond descri1)tion.

Chapter X., Among the Mountains,

172
 Bscurefotte about runchaI
The Grand Curra1.-Other jagged and spire-like
pealcs rise in a circ111ar group around a deep,
evergreen, and pop~llateclvalley that is Inlo.cvn
as the Grand Cnrral. The Pico do Areei1.0 over-
looks this valley, and completes the circle of
mountaia-pealra s~zrrouncliagit. So it will per-
1zal)sbo easy to :y>preciatethe acicatist'a theory
t11at this gronl) constitutcs tlw renlaiils of a cir-
cular ridge wllicll formed ia by-gone ages the
crater of a gigailtic volcano.
Picos Ruivo, Cidriio, Canario, and Torres.-Of
IJleso pcalcs sr~sro~znding tlic Grand Cuwal the
Pico Ruivol ie i l ~ chighest in ilic island, and the
otlie~vomizieaces, illo Cidrtio, Cana~io,and Tor-
rcs,%ar oacarly as high aoid form the loftiest
mozzntain glvonp. The fact that their summits
are covcrocl with 1~va~ciiclcx.s thc hypothesis of
tlzeir havilig anciently bcc1-1 part of a crater more
l)l"'~"bIo,
A Guido is Desirable.-As sudden storms fie-
quoiitly occ~urin Ibo llighlaiids and render many
--W ---
Olinptor XIX., Yollow Violel;.
For Iho lzaiglrts of tllo nbova montionod mountnina, #c@
Clinptor X., Altitndcs.
"Cl~npkorIX., Lava.
178
 Cbe Zanb of tbe Wftte
of the l~athwaysdifficult to find and sometimes
irn~assable,the services of a guide familiar with
the vario~zspasses are desimble on an expeditioil
to ally of the pealcs overlookiilg the Grand C~lrral.
How to dress for Mountaineering.-Now, oilly
a mail with a stroag constitntioi~call prudeatly
rely entirely upon his owl1 powers of loco~notioll
in these mountain 1-ambles. H e s h o ~ ~carry l d a11
~ ~ l p e i ~ s t(usten),
o ~ l c be loosely clad, and wcar the
native ~aw-hideboots, in order to pi*escivvehis
equilibrium on the slippery moss and bo~~lders.
Where the R6de is Desirable.-It is in nlally
cases advisable to llave tbe indispei~sablorede out-
fit a t baud, ia orcler to fall back 011 this convey-
ai~cein tiines of gineat fatigue, for visitors fiom
the temperate zones are in constant danger of
sunstrol~e. Warnirlg agaiilst ~*tlnniagally rislcs
uadcr the nearly pel.pendict11ar rays of t l ~ eMa-
~ has beell give11 i11 Chal~tcrV., "13ow
d e i r a ~sun
to avoid Sunstroke." I n spiic of the inoyatain
breezes which blow continually, the atmosphere is
often humid and colitai~lsa great deal of invisible
moisture.'

l Chapt~rXI., EIclmiclity ; Air ; Eealth and How to keep it.

174
MOUNTAINEERING.
 Ercurfjione about gunchar
How to Choose the Rbde-Bearers.-Tile countyy-
Inan is a more sturdy hammock-bearer than the
townsmaa. 13s Tvages vary fiom five huudred
to six hundred reis per day, at which rate of pay
llc should snpply his own food. 111 any case the
1)~'ice should be agreed upon at the time of en-
g:lging ono's hammock-men, and it is advisable
to witl~holdf ~ d paymcrlt
l until the traveller has
rezlcl~cdhis jouraey's end.
How the R6de is carried.-The hammock itself
is c ~ ~ s l ~ i o nmc d c~~rtained and swung upon a
long polo, ~vllichis carried at either end 011 the
~honlderof a rbde-man. The rede and pole have
together an nvcrage weight of about a h~uldred
and tllirty pomlds, and this burden added to the
weiglli; of the "fare" is borne with the most re-
madcable ease by the rkde-men.
The Madeiran Walk,-Their gait, which maybe
dcac~ibcdas the Madeiras walk, is quite pec~~liar
t o tlicse islanders. It is a long loping stride, by
which, a l t l ~ o ~ ~theg l lknee is uilbent when the foot
touclzcs thc ground, great speed is attained. The
body is lleld perfectly straight, the shoulders are
tllrown wcll back, a i d thc legs are alternately
s w l ~ l ~loosely
g forward by a pivot-like motion of
li7
 Gbe Zanb of the Mine
the hips. When wishing to move eve11 more
quickly, the bearers break illto a, swinging, shuf-
fling trot, ~ v l ~ i cthey
h call inai~ltaiil,for several
miles at a time witho~ztany*appareilt sigils of
fatigue, though they perspire fieely. During the
progress of the journey the bearera erltertaill
tllemselvcs by sii~ging iml~rovised songs, the
trend of which is a discussion of the weight of
their L'fare." It is lncky for the heavy person
who does not understand Portuguese, while the
man of lighter weight misses many cornplilne~~ts
tllrougl~his ignoral~ccof the lai~gnage.
The Rdde Superior to Conveyances of Similar Kind
in other Parts of the World.-Conveyances of a
solliewhat similar cha~acterto the rede arc used
in China, Japaa, and the Portuguese ~~ossessions
in South Afi=ica,-the l~alanquinof India just
escapes being ideiltical ; but the Madeiran rede is
in solid coinfort and in o~ztwarclal~pcamancesape-
rior to ally other conveyance of its lzind. The
rede-man has the strei~gthof an ox and tile ell-
dzzrance of ail Iadian. The writer has beell borile
UP ail ascent at double the pace he could have
accoml~lishec~ afoot. 011 the hottest day there is
invariably a crowd of applicailts to carry the rkde.
178
 Ercurefone about $~mchal
How the R6de should be hired.-Hammock-
bearers may be hired by the hour, by the day, or
by the month.' When they supply their own
food, their cl~asgesare as follows :

Rates of Hire
Reis
For each man, by the hour . . . . . . . . . 200
For each man, by the day, in the vicinity of Fun-
chal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 500
For each man, by the afternoon, for three after-
noons per week . . . . . . . . . . . . 400
For each man, by the month, exclusive of other
service . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9,400
For each man, by the month, including such ser-
vice as gardening, marketing, house-cleaning, and
errand-running . . . . . . . . . . . . 11,500

Time required for Certain Excursions.-The visit

to the Mount Church and its swrouuding
iieighbonrhood Inay occupy the better part of a
morning ; the exc~wsionto the Grand Cursal is
comfortably accomplished by rede or on foot in
two aad a half hours each way, and by horse in
considerably less time, but to gain the summit of
t l ~ Pica
e do Areeiro or of ally of its ~leighbouring
accessible peaks fiom the valley of the Curral an
"Chapter VI., Servants.
179
 Ehe $anb of the Wlfne
hour and a half must be occupied in steady climb-
ing; or if the expedition to the summit of Pico
do Areeiro be inade froin Funchal by way of the
Mouut Church, eight hours should be allowed for
its sz~tisfactoryztccoi~~plishment.After mal~ing
any one of the aforeineiltioned excursions, the
new-corner call well afford, iznmediately oil his
return t o town, to repair to his hotel for rest and
refreshment. 13e will then perhaps find it oppor-
tune t o take a siesta in the garden, which is ii~va-
riably all attractive place, being a special fcature
ia the establishmci~tof every 11otel.
Madeiran Horticulture.-The natives are won-
del-fill gardeners.' I11 some of their fantastic and
dwa~fing arrangements of plants, and in their
ecoiloniy of territory, they remind tho visitor of
the Japaaese. I11 Madeira the land-owncr oficlz
prrzcs his garden nest to his wife ancl offspring ;
and the wealthy residents vio with one another in
their horticulture.
IT.otels, private houses, and quintas are built
wit11 the dining-room opening into the galden.
Some British authors have said that the gardens
Chapter V., Private Garclells ; Chapter XIX,, Flowering
Plmts; Chapter XXIII., Scarlet Geraniums,
180
 aicurelone about mncbal
of Madeira do not bear comparisoll with those of
England. But, though the strictly systematic
arrangements required by the holm rules of gar-
delling are nob observed, it is neve~*tl~elcss a fact
t l ~ a tMadeiran gardellers are gifted with rema&-
able originality; and, as there is muell greater
varicty and l ~ r x ~ ~ r i ain
a c the
e plants and flowers
of Madeira: tlie gardens should atone by their
coiltcllts f01=what tliey may lose by their non-
~~~~~~~~mity with thc laws of home gardening.
Hotel Gardens.-The hotel gardens are usually
filled with willdilig paths that render distances
deceptive. A11 acre of gronlld may be so culti-
vated that a lawa-tennis court in its centre will
be csceedingly cliffic~lltto k d , aud the least indi-
rect way thither will lead by sparkling fourltains
and a n artificial rtrin, over a milliat~~remountain,
tllrougl~latticed arbours, and arouad bcds of ex-
quisitc flowers ; it will also lead zigzag through
a tiny foreat, a cane-brake, a11 orange-grove, and
bctweclz rows of banaila-trees, whose broad leaves
arch ovcrlzend like giant rmbrellas. Monkeys
cl~attcrin blight-pai;iated cages placcd along the
F o r n list of the flowering pla~ltsof Madeira, see Chal~ter
XIX.
 way, ~vlliletame parrots and brilliantly plulnaged
birds of several other varieties call fiom their
perches among t.he tropical foliage to the passer-
by. One's attention is so apt to becoinc distracted
by the sights and sounds along tlls way tllat the
last turn which brings him abruptly 1113011 the
tennis-court is ~ulexpected. It is rather amusing
to observe the espressioll of bew il~lermentwit11
which uew-corners illvariably emerge fimn tlie
final turning of the garden's labyrir~tll.
Lawn-Tennis.-The hotcl tennis-co~~rt is usually
a good one, and a game can be giwtly enjoyed
in the late afterl~ooa,when a cool breezc l ~ s u a l l y
puts to flight the mid-day heat. Players have
oReil been kl~owrlt o becoine ii*ratiol~aland t o do
ridiculous thiilgs in the midst of a gzme d n r i a g
the hot hours, for the sun of the tropics is treach-
erous, and its nlinost perpendicular rays ale quiclc
to strike and overcome the ventaresomc.
The Season for a Stroll about Town.-As t l ~ olatc
aftern0011 is a good time for exercising, st s1lol.t
walk about the tow11 is ofFered as a s~zggestion
that the visitor may like to follow.
Hospi9io.-Oddly, a hospital is the most beu~zti-
ful building in Funchal, and its architect was a
182
A HOTEL TENNIS-COURT.
 Ercureforte: about funchaI
Mr. Lamb, of London. I t s corner-stone was laid
in the y e a r 1556, and its erectioil was completed
three years later, at an expense of some thirty-
t,wo thousand six hundred po~ulds,which was
borne entirely by the estate of the late dowager
Empress of Brazil.
The Late Dowager Empress of Brazil.-This lady
becalne SL victim of consuml)tion, and was brongl~t
to Madeira by her mother. Towards the dose of
her sad life she conceived the idea of erecting a
liospital for coiisnlnptives as a memorial to her
deeply mourned a i d only child, Princess Amelia.
But as death drew near ailcl she realised that she
would n o t be able to begin the worlc herself, she
made her will ill favour of her sister, the dowager
&ueen of Sweden, and provided tllerein that the
latter should attend to the bnildiag of the memo-
rial. T h e empress passed away in tile year 1853,
and her sister coi~scientiouslyundertook and
ft.~itlifi~lly
accomplished the worlr thus left to 11e1..
Situated i11 tile nliclst of ,z lovely garden on the
Angnstias Hill, near the New Road, the hospi@o
coin~naildsan extensive view of the town, bay,
and neighbowing mo~~ntaias.A stroll through
the grounds is illterestiag, and admission can
185
 Ube P.attb of tbe Prnitte
easily be had of the gate-keepcr. The cstablislz-
mellt is excellently carried on by means of the
incdme derived fizom a large cildo~vnleiztfu11d pro-
vided by the will of the late empress. Tlze noble
Sisters of the Order of Saint Vincent dc Paul'
devote much of their tinic to caring for the con-
sumptive patients, and the eveilings of many lives
are brightened by their cheering smiles and never-
ccasing kindncsses.
Hospipio Santa Casa da Misericordia.-There is
another hospital, the Santa Cusa da Misericordia,
-which is a large and rather imposing edifice on
the north side of the Praqn da Constitni~%o.The
building is not modern, having been erected in
tlze year 1685, but it is in fairly good repair.
Natives are admitted fiee or on the payment of a
nominal fee, but fo~.eigiicrsare charged about two
shillings (forty-eight cei~ts)per day for ti~catmcnt,
lodging, and food, besides tlze cost of di-ugs,which
they must pay for as ail extra. A chapel 011 tlze
wounds is dedicated to Saint Elizabcih, and on
r)

July 2 of every year the ~ k s t i v a of

l tlze Visita-
tion is celebrated there, and the' towas-l~cople
send floral contributions to the patients. There
Chapter XII., Nunneries.
186
 dscuraio~teabout rtlncba1
is in tllc hospital a, departmeut for fo~u~dlinga,
who are received through a revolving gate from
the hands of t h e deserting pareat or guardian.
Leprosy, and the Leper Hospital.-Leprosy is a
comliioll disease among the lower classes, espe-
cially in the westei8lipart of the island. The Leper
IIospital, erected in 1665, is situated a t S%o La-
z a ~ * o .Tlicre
~ is 011 the hospital grounds a p a i n t
~ ~ l a~iciellt
ld cllapel where religions services are
held. This chapel, probably the smallest temple
of wo~~ship in the world, is a building about iliile
feet in lcngtlz and six feet in breadtli, A ceiling
rourteen feet from the floor permits of a gallelby,
which encircles the upper interior. 011 tlie floor
is a pulpit, wllcro the priest conducts services.
Sta~idiilgin the l~ulpitthis holy inail appears to
IN at tlle bottom of a pit, tile gallery rising to the
vaulted ceiliilg seelning t o forlil tlie ul~perwalls
of llic pit. It; is i11 this gallery that the lepers
assclnblo and l~earlcento thc priest's voice as i t
risos li'o11-1 tho dcl)tlis beneath. It is a straiigc
slvrilngemmiL, b u t a practical and sanitary one,

l Places of intercat near the Leper Hospital are the chapel

SunLa antarinn nnd tlie lime-kilns sf Funchal; Chapter
III.,Wbare Zargo is buried.
1.-10 187
 ~ b llanb
e ot tbe Pmine
for the priest is in this way free from the atmos-
phere of t l ~ elepers, who are above him, and whose
exhalations rise aild thus leave the atmosph'ere on
the grotu~d-floorclear.
P r a ~ ada Constituig%o.--Across the Praqa da Con-
stit~zi$Bo,or Colistitu tion Square, from thc suilta
Casa da Misericordia I-Zospital, is the Govenlor's
Palace, a11 extensive, turreted structure. A
pleasallt walk t o i t can be had tl~rongli the
Pmqi~,whicl~is well shaded by evcrgreeil trees.
A Public Garden.-Adjoining the Praqa, and also
facing the Palace, is a small public garden, filled
with luxuriant plollts of inany interestillg varie-
ties. The Praqa was in former days the fashiorl-
able pronlelladc. The New Public Gardens have,
however, since replaced the P r a p in fashioaable
popularity.
The New Public Gardens.-The -New Public
Gnrdei1s1 were ol~enedbut o few years ago, and
arc most attractive 2nd l)ol-'ulai+. They coi~ttlill
many valuable specimeas of trees and l)ltlnls of'

The New Public Gardens occupy the grounds on which

formerly stoocl the head Franciscan rnonaslery, $e$ Chaptel:
;3II.?A Mouastery of By-gone Days.
188
A GLMP5E IN THE NEW PUHLIC GAFDENS.
 Lb. ' S . .

PALACIO D E S s 0 LOURENFO, W H E R E T H E GOVERNOR DWELLS.

alinost cvery lcnown tropical variety, and borti-
culturally arc the finest in the island.
At the junction of the mail1 thoroughfalaresin
tile illicldlc of tlio gardens there is an elevated
~ t u u dwhcre a military Band plays twice a week
and on fdtc-days. A t such tiincs thc fashion and
wealth and ranlc of the town are to be seen
tllrongiag in pnblic l)rome11t~de nkout the gar-
dens.
Prap da Rainha.-A ilcw lmqa has just been
opcnocl. It;cxtel~clsalong the Ncw Road towards
l110 Po~kinlia,Braalcwder, nil4 is described at
longtlz in Cllapter XIII., LETTEB FEOM UNITED
STATJ~S CONSULJ O N ~TO 'I'IXE WRITEW, Pra~a
da Rainl~a.
Pelaoio de Sfio Lourenqo.-The PnZacio, fainil-
iarly Irnowu to tlie Madoiralls the Fo~talexc~,
and to tlie ~ i ~ g l i sasl ithe Governor't~Palace, is a
I-atlzci*tzi~gzlinlylooliing building, b ~ ~being
t , t11c
rosicloncc of' tllo civil and military goverilor, must
be a ylnca of intorcat to visitors as well as to Ma-
dcirnns. Its main ontranoo ope11s 11po11 the
Pi*~qa dt~,Rtbinlla a i d cominalzclfj a good view of
t11c bay. Withi11 thci-o arc few apart;menls do-
serving of ~pcciiblmoutioil, tllougll the ~ecol~tioa-
1U1
 Ube Zattb of the Ultne
rooms are l ~ a i ~ d s oand
i ~ ~well
e filrnishcd, a i ~ dthe
ball-room is spacious, provided with a good flooi*
fur danciag, and h ~ w gwith apocryphal portraits
of a umber of thc early govcrilors.
Relating t o the Governor.--In former years the
iilcollle of the governor1 aiiloullted to sollie thir-
tccn l~uildredpounds per annum, and it was the11
customary t o entertain largely at the Patace.
Altl~onghballs are still occasioi~allygiven, they
are now small, forrnal affairs, a i d not splendid
entertainments SLIC~I 5s those of earlier days. For
thc salary of the govenior2has beell reduced from
time t o time duriag various adlnii~istratioils,~zatil
it is now 1.idiculously slnall alld. barely suficient
for his proper lllaillteilailce i11 accordance lcvitb his
rnlllr aijd position. The expcilses of entertainiag
mtist, therefore, be defiaycd entirely from the
govenior's private purse, and he is usually not
a ~vealtl~y man.
The Palatial Art-Galleries.-The Palace pict~zre-
g.allel*ies are sadly wai~tingin good paintings.

l F o r matters pertaining to Mndeiran government, see

Chapter XII.
* For the ilarne of the present civil governor of Madeira,
see Chapter IX., Aclministration.
192
T ~ c wl~ichare considered to be the best
W O ~ are S poorly cxecntcd portyait of a olle
C Y C ~mail entitled Zsrgo,l and all illartistic l3&int-
ing representing the lnildillg of the first discov-
orcrs of Madeira, Robcrt & Machin and Anlla
cl'Arfet.
The Meteorological Observatory.-~h~meteor-
ological obscrv,ztory2of the goverllnlellt is sitn-
atccl in a wing of the Palace ovel-looking an
instrument for liicasuriilg the velocity of the
wild (an ancrnonieter), which is erected upoil
t l ~ cI,cl1ruce.
Fountains~.--Ithas only been withill very recent
timcs Illat stntucs of the nude were tolerated in
public: display. Several such statues which were
orocted in the squares in years gone by were
~110rLlyafterwards disfigured 01. removed by the
l)opulncc,or clad ancl reclad in the latest fashions.
Of late, l~owcver,public seiltiinellt has changed
~ ~ l n o w h0a11t this matter, alld there is a t least one
statue wortlly of brief wentioa. As shomll in

Portllguese for Sqzbint-eyed, the nickname of the famous

explorer and rediscoverer of Madeira, JoLo Gongalvez. See
foot-note on page 42 for explanation of this sobriquet.
Chapter XI., Meteorologicnl Observations.
105
 Gbe %anb of tbe Wfn6
the accompanying illustrabion, it represellts the
ulldraped form of a beautiful woman, and now
adoi-ns a pnblic fouatain in P u a c l ~ d .
As Fontes de JoLo Diniz.-The best drinlcii~g-
water obtaiilable in Fullchal comes from natural
s ~ r i n g ill
s the rock fouadatioas of the Govenlor's
Palace. The outlets for the water are uader thc
inail1 front of the buildiag, and are kno.~vaas As
Foutes de JoZo Dilzix. Here a picturesque sight
is to bc had of the towns-people calling for their
daily supplies of the fi-esh, sp,zrlrling fluid.'
As in Biblical Days. - womea come to the
fo~ultaindressed in loose, flowing garments, and
Isalallcing earthen jars on their heads, even as
Rebecca and other women of Biblical days2 are
said to have gone to the wells. Among the water-
carriers arc also inally nleii with austere couilte-
names and flowing beards, who are clad ill loi~g,
loose garrnellts girt abont the waist, and who

Families keeping house in Fonohal are cautioned to

obtain their drinking-water at these springs : Chapter VI.,
Drinking-Water.
"Chapter VII., ante, Feast of the Assumption; Chapter
XIV., ReJigious Life; Biblical Customs ; Chapter XV.,
FBte-Days and Religious Celebrations.
196
T H E OPERA-HOUSE A N D N E W PUBLIC GARDENS.
 Gscurofotze about funcba1
carry tall staves; they, too, remind one forcibly,
both in their gllavc ~nal~iler and patlliarchal ddress,
of characters piclurcd as having lived i11 the times
of thc propl~ets.
The Museum.-Thc Muscnm is a small a i d
uaprctentious - loolring l)nilcling, aituated neai*
Carlno Clztzrch and in tlze Seminario. It con-
tailis some vcry iilterestiag exhibits, and is well
worth a visit.
The Opera-House.-A higl~lyimposing e~diflceis
the Opera-Ronsc, fiontii~gtlic inail1 elltrance to
t l ~ eNcw Public Gardens. It has bee11 erectcd
withilz reccnt years, a i ~ dis a chief place of enter-
t ainmcnt for ill0 cz~istocrac y during the willtor
Reason, when n vcry good stoclr coinpally fioin
Lisbon gives p ~ i f o ~ i n t t ~ regulc2itly.
~ces
Newspapers.-Tl~a leading xlcwspal)crs are the
Diario $0 Comnze~cioallcl tlic .Din~iode AToticicis.
Vmadouraa Gateway.-'rho Vni*c2c%oni1asgate-
way, thc nzain cntr;llzcc to Failchal wllen ihc city
was cilcloacd by a great wall, cll~riiigtlic sevei1-
i,ecnth ccntuily, stands on l;ho beach front a t tile
foot of a stincetwhich lcnds into the heart of the
city. 'rlic gutcw:l,y bealte c212 illscril~tionto t11e
eflcct that l;hc orcc2;ioa of tho walla of t l ~ ocity waa
100
 Gbe Zanb of the Pglfne
completed i l l 1689. What is now lefi of the old
city walls is mostly in ruins, due to the i~zcnrsioas
of pirates and other marauders during the early
pal-t of the eigl~teenthEeatnry.
The County Prison,-This is a grim, forbiddiug-
looking edifice, situated i11 the heart of that; section
in which there is the most bustle and liveliiicss.
It has very properly beell suggested that "a more
suitable buildil~gin a less anfit locality should be
lwovided." And, indeed, the structure is in a most
wretched state of repair. A t a11 hours of the day
prisoaers are to be seen a>tthe prison windows,
wl~icllfkont directly oil the main thoroughfare and
are geilerally on tlzc ground-floor. The passer-by
is often hailed by these miscreants and asked for
money; if this is not immediately forthcoming, a
torrent of abuse and ridicule is hurlcd after him.
011 fete-days val*ions articles of the prisoners'
haadicraft are suspended by strings from the
prison windows, as the means of offering theln
for sale to the people throilgillg the vicinity. On
s n c l ~occasioi~sfiiends of the prisoners come to
hold coilverse wit11 them, but, as the late Mr.
Jol~nsoil,the 9a,mous authority 011 mattel-,.c Ma-
deil-an, mys, 'LThe rniscrable inmates of the
200
prison do not scruple to iaterrnpt thc conversa-
tion by calliilg out to the passer-by for alms, in
toncs rather of demand than of supplication."
The Casino.-It hat3 become a fad within the
last two or thycc yearn, on vessels calling at Fun-
olrul, to recommend the Imsscngclzs who have a
few hours to spei~dasliore, bcforc their dcparturc,
to visit t l ~ oGasino, a hai~dsolncbnilcliag opened
in the year 1895. Gnlnblillg on a very large
scalc is here carried oil. Many great fortunes
havo already bee11 won and lost i11 this Madeira11
Monte Carlo. The prop~.ictorsof the Casino have
latcly acquired thc 'vigia Galdens, the moat beau-
tiful gzli*dens in F~ulchal,'tlbounding in shady
1)tlthsalld trellised retreats, and Glled wit11 flower-
ing 111antsstizd s~arlclil~g fo~llltains. Every day a
fine coaccl*tis givcn, while balls and dances are
of f r c q ~ ~ eooconlcllce.
nt The gardens overlooli a
1ol't;y precipice, washed at its base by the tumbling
waves of the sea.
Moonlight Excursions. --One of the most de-
liglltf~1l pastimes is the inakillg of all excursioil
into thc co1u1tl.y on a qool, clear night, when the

8e.o next paragraph, Moonlight Excursions.

201
 &be laanb of the Wine
moon is fnll. The weird lights and shadows cast
on the roads and fields by the moollbeams ~nalre
a scene very fascinating to the lover of the pic-
tnresque. A s has elsewhere been statecl, the pens-
ants do much of their field labour a t night,' ill
order to escape tlie heat from the direct rays of
the sun. The wonien spin b y the ope11 willdows
in the moonligl~ta i d sing l~ymnsand other songs
of a rcligio~zscharacter, and the field labourers
join in the cl~oruses. It is a quaint sight a i d one
never to be forgotten. Whell therc is 110 moo11
the planets and coilstellatioils loolc clowil fro111
the hcavclls with great i'adiance : it has bee11 re-
inarlced that the Pleiades appear to twinkle faster
and with more brilliancy at Madeira t l ~ a nin any
other part of the world. There is n, rcmarlcable
clarity of the atmosl>llere a t night, so that the
heavenly bodies shed a beautiful lustro on thii~gs
terrestrial. Miss Ellen M. Taylor, the distin-
guished a~lthorof "Madeira: Its Sceilcry and
how to sce it," atates in her vol~unct11at "tlie
light of the nioon ill Madeira is golden, not sil-
ver: the broad band of light she casts 011 tlie oceail

' Chapter XIV., Biblical Customs.

202
LOO ROCK FORT B Y MOONLIGHT,
 Erct~refonaabout funchar
is radiant gold. Nature in every way conduces
to make mooaligl~tin Madeira bewitcl~ingand
lovely." Of the moonlit nigllts in Funcl~alMiss
Taylor says, " The lofty mouatains, some in
shadow, others in light; then in all quintus the
t.1.e~~ add anotlier bcanty, and just above this
one the A~*aucarias in the Tigia Gardens stand
out clcar, even a t this d i ~ t a n c e . ~Occasionally
tllc music from some man-of-war at anchor i11
tllc bay will come across the sea, and in the
stilli~essof evening the sound is welconie and
very pleasant."
--

' Miss Taylor herc refers to the quinta she occupied at the
time of writing this description.
 C H A P T E R V111
JOURNEYS TO DISTANT POINTS OF IINTEREST~

ant8 (Cr~3,--Perhaps the loveliest of the

coast villages is 8anta Cr~lz,~vliichis
twelve miles distant; by land and fifteen
miles by sea fi.0111 Funchal. Bituated a t 1;hc
1~011thof a great ravine, 011 either side of which
massive mountains lift their summits into the
clouds, this little town, .with its pretty white and
yellow houses, 1x.esents a pictul.esqnc aspect.
Approaching it by sea, vessels enter c~ small bay
or inlet, bordering which is the village, f'ronting on
a liarrow beach. A trip from Funcl~alto Santa
Cruz by water is highly interesting and delightf~il,
By Steamer to Santa Cruz.-There are two stcam-
launches, the Falcoil and tile I-Iawlr, owned by
t l ~ eMessrs. Blandy, and a small ~ t e a m c rwliic1-1
,~

Chapter VI. contains a full account of the houses wliero

accommodations can be had in the towns and villages herein
described.
Chapter IX., Local Steamship Service.
20G
leave on statcd days several times weelcly for
pbccs of interest along the coast. The voyage
to Santa Cruz is higllly exhilaratiag, for the
steamer slcirts the shore and affords a near view
of an ever-changing panorama.
Inhabited Coast Districts.--Ia some places the
coast rises abruptly and is weird, rugged, allcl
wild, while in otllcr places it is more smiling, tke
1:nld sloping gently down to the water'^ edge.
111 tllcse comparatively level places are to be seen
tile littlo huts or dwellillgs of the country-folk;
the straw-thatcl~cdroofs of the huts, peepiug out
liore, theile, ailcl ev"c*ywhcrethrough the l~zxuri:u~t
foliage, resclnblc somewhat the tops of nnmerons
laisgo bcel~ives.
Hotel Santa Cruz.-The only tavern in the town,
the " I-lotel Ballta Ci*uz," is a comfortable two-
story building, plessalltly sitllated at a short dis-
tance t o the east of the village, 011 a terrace,
where t l ~ esea breezes bavc f~lllsway. ,It is snr-
rounded by a b e a u t i f ~ garden.
~l
Explorations along the rocky shore at this part
of ialar~dprove highly interesting and enter-
taining to those who have a taste for n a t ~ ~ r a l
history, and, in h c t , to all lovcrs of nature.
207
 Cbe Zanb of the Illline
Caves.-The writer recollects well how hc used
to go o d on the water in a native boat, and, with
wondering interest, row about, discovering thc
e~ltrallcesto dark caves, ever and ailon stol)pii~g
to listen to the dash of the brealccrs oil the roclis
or the aoisc: of the rushii~gwater as it hissed ailcl
boomed th1.oug11 the mysterious air-holes in the
nataral rocky coast wall.
Machico.-For the traveller who wishes to visit
the various points of interest about the island mld
to see thol.onghly all the siglits, it would be well
to draw up a definite plan of proccdurc. Santa
Crnz is an excclleilt point from which to 111alrc
excursions to the places of interest in the south-
eastern aection of the island. Within ail hour
and a qnarter's walking clistai~ccis Machico, of
which much has bee11 said Bit11erto.l
Ruins of a Frangscan Monastery.-Oil tho road
thither stand the ruias of a Franciscan moll-
a ~ t e r y ,which
~ was erectcd i11 the year 1515.
Machico, as clescribed heretofore, lies i11 a vcrdellt
valley fronting on a bay some seven h~ulclredand
l The history of Machico is contained in Cllapter I.
a Another monastery is described in Chapter XII., A Mon-

astery of By-gone Days.

208
 3ournev8 to Dietant QoInte
fifty yards in width. Acljaceilt t o the beach is a
sl~adedpromenade, where the f6tes of the villagers
are hcld and where the romance of youth has its
day. Aiter chasch on Suildays it is a pleasing
siglit to see the belles attended by their admiring
nzale escorts strolling about. These villagers
lead a siml3le life ailcl are happy.
Art-Gallery in the Chapel of the Sacrament.-
The village art-gallery is in the Chapel of the
Sacrumei~t,where liailgs a siilglc ailcieilt pictmqe
illustrative of the adorations of the three wise
nloiz at the inanger birthplace of Christ Jesus.
The Parish C h ~ ~ r cdedicated
l~, to Nossa Sea-
hors da Coi~cei$.o,the Islaad's Protectress,
coninilia the cailopied tombs of Tristam Vaz
Teixcira aild. his wife. It has bee11 told elsemhercl
how he lived in Blachico as first Captain of this
half of the islaiid.
Capella of Nosso Senhor de Mi1agres.-A chapel
erected i n the year 1883, and kiiown as the Cllapel
of Our Lord of Miracles, occupies the site of the
foriller str~lctare,which was carried away by a
Chapter II., last paragraph preceding Porto Santo's First
Governor ; Chapter III., Distinguished Madeiran Colonists,
Teixeira.
209
 Gbe Zanb of the "QUline
Rood from the moulztaias oil the cvellillg of S L ~ I -
day, the 9th of October, of the year IS03.l
This earlier chapel was the first edifice of wor-
ship built on the island.2 The first services wcre
held on the 2d of July, of the year 1419-just a
111011th after the departure from Portugal of t l ~ c
explorers on their voyage of ~ediscovery. The
chapel, being built .over the graves of Ro1)el.t %.
Machill and Anaa d'Arfct and dcdicatecl, in
memory of the dead prediecoverers, to the Par-
luguesc Order of Christ, was called " Santa Iza-
be1 da Misericordia," Saint Izabel of Mercy. The
crosses 011 the oriyi~~c~Z
door or portico (which was
not dcstroycd in 1803) testify to the chapel's
dedicatioa.
Now when the great flood, which burst up011
thc town a l ~ dcountry in the south side of the
island, swept the chapel a t Macliico and its con-
tcnts-a massive wooden cross and an irnage of'
Jesus-to sea, a great fear ~eizedthe natives
that the end of the world was a t hand.

l Chapter XVII., Water-Spout and Flood of 1803.

Whapter XL, Zargo builds a Chapel to the Memory of the
Prediscoverers.
218
 3ourneea to Distant lPointe
Bnt somc three days after the flood had take11
place a11 American slsip sailed illto Fuuchal Bay
briizgilzg a cross and ail image that had beell
ro~~izd floating out a t sea.
I11 happy amaze and wonder the natives re-
. ceived the iinsge and the ciloss, idciztifyiizg them
us those gone fiom Maclzico, and rcgardiizg their
return a~ a mirrcclo.
The cross and image were lodged for some
years in the Fi111chal Cathedral, xuztil in 1813
thoy weile talcen back to Machico and placed in
thc new cllapel that had beell built on the site of
tlzc oi*igiiial one dcstroycd by Rood. I t was at
t11c time of thc return o f the image and cross to
Machico that their restored resting-place, the new
cllapel, was re-dedicat;ed, ill com&emol*ation of
thcii*rcturn, to Nosso Senhor de Milagresl (Our
Lord of Mi~aacles). By the year 1877 the cllapel
had ngaiil gottell into a ruinous state, so, as it
commemoratctl not only a miracle but mar11ed
the burial-placc of the prediscoverers of Madeilla,
rostoratioil was again beglux It was completed
ill 1883 and the again restored chapel waa c o w -
--

l Chnpter XV., Celebration qt Maohipo,

T.-l1 211
 Ube Ianb of the INIine
crated by the Bishop of Filncllal. It .stands, it
is said, over the graves wherein were deposited
the bodies of Machill and his tlnfort~znatelady-,
love by their crew. I t is here that a sinall cross
of j itniper wood is preserved ; it bears the follow-
ing inscription : " The Remains of Machili Cross,
collected and deposited here by Robert Pagc,
1825." Mr. Page was an English resident in
Funchal. Therc is also an illscription in Portn-
gucse attached to the crosfi to the effcct that it
was found i11 the old chapel in 1814. This state-
ment seems to be totally at variance with the
otl~el.,but there is 110 solution.
A Subterranean Cavern.-In the valley of Ma-
chico, a i d near the Quinta de Santa Anas, therc
is a great subterranean cavern, into the depths
of which a very interesting tour of exploratioil
may be made.
The Fossil Bed.-Another trip which is within
easy distance from Santa Cruz call be acc0111-
plished comfortably by boat in about an hour
a i d a half; it is to the Fossil Bed near the base
of the Piedade Peak. Here is an elysian field
for the naturalist, where many strange shell-fish
are to be found, also land-shells7 cgd what are
212
 30owmep3 to Distant potnte
a1)parcatly petrified branches and roots of trees
alld of plallts of various chara~ters.~
Ponta de SLo Lourenqo.-Ponta de S90 Loarenc;~
is not far from the Fossil Bed; in fact, it is just
across Lltbra Bay, a small inlet.
Ilheo d'Agostinho.-The Poata is one of four
dissevercd boulders, resemblillg miniature islands ;
these illpc 1~110~11 as Illlco d'Agostinho. This is
tile extrellle easter11 point of the island.
The Light-House.-On the rocky isle of the
I111eo group knowll as FORA, directly off Point
St, L o r e u ~ ois
, ~the ollly light-l~ouee~in Madeira,
and it; 11ua served to warn many a vessel fiom the
dangerous, rocky coast. There is telegrapliic
coinmui~icationbetween the light-house 2nd the
antlzorities in Fuachal.
Church of Santo Antonio da, 8erra.-If one is
clevoutly illcliiled or redly wishes to see every-
thing that is t o .he seen in the neiglik,onrhood of
Banta Cruz, the churcl~of 8anto Ailtoilio d~zSer1.a
should be visited. It is situated in the mountains
at a height of two thousand ailcl fifty-nine feet,
Chapter IX., Fossil Land.
a Ponta de SBo Lourengo Anglicised.
Vortugueso, Pharol.
213
 &be %anb. of the Wine
and overlooks the j~mctionof roads from Ribeiro
Frio, Machico, Porto da Crnz, Santa Cruz, and
F~ulchal.
Lamaceiros Pass.-A very deliglitful excursion,
and oiie oil which a view of much picturesq~~e
scenelaymay be had, is that aloiig the Lamaceiros
Pass. Porto da Gruz is witl~inan ho~zrand a
half's walking distance from the l)ass, and near
at lialld are the quintas of Mr. Doilaldsoil a i d
Snr. Leal. Just to the west of the pass flow the
waters of the great Zevuda. The river is here
d the water-supply of Santa Cruz and
t a ~ l ~ efor
the snrrounding district. The main stream is
carrich to Camachs, an iiuand parish situated
between Santa Crnz and Fnnchal.
Porto da Cruz.-Porto da Cruz is ailother good
point from whicb to make excursions ; it is a vil-
lage on the nortl1east coast, abont a mile and a
half fiom Faya1.l
Calh6ta.-On the coast t t b o ~ ~fourteen
t miles
west of Funchal is Calheta, a small town of more
thall passiilg interest. The peol~leof Calheta take
their styles from the metropolis, Fuachal. The

l Chapter X., Fayal.

214
A N A T I V E OF C A L H I T A .
men do not wear the simple loose garment8
peculiar to t l ~ i reonntry brethren, but affect
the ~egulationcity attire t o as great an extent
as ~ossible.
Monastery in Calh4ta.-The court-house in Cal-
heta stallds 011 a ledge of rock so exceedingly
narrow that its gables overhang a precipice. It
was until a few years ago an old monastery.
The shore in this viciait;g rises abruptly, and
towering rocky morlntains frown from their sum-
mits almost perpeadicullal-ly down upon the
rugged valleys at their feet.
Paiil do Mar.-At failrl do Mar, a little village
about three miles up the coast froin CalhGta,
every incli of the soil is under cultivation. This
is the chief locality for the growing of the grapes
fiorn whicl~is made the world-famons Sercial
wi11e.l
The Prazeres.-The Prazeres is a populated TB-
trict, well cultivated and uniquely attractive to
the sight-seer. The economy of space, which is
a necessity ill the mo~ultainprovinces where land
apl)roacl~inglevelness is at a high premium, is
not a cl~aracteristicof this gently rolling country.
Chapter XXIII., The Vine and the Wine.
217
 GQe %anb of tbe Wine
Farming Country.-It is an agreeable coiltrast
to those wit11 all interest for farming, who love
opell fields, spacions vineyards and orchards, and
.\;v110find cnltivatioll in various other parts of the
islaud cramped and hence uninteresting. The
cereals are here gromil extensively and fruits are
largely cultivated. Stoclc-farming is another in-
dustry, and cattle graze and roam over far-stretch-
ing greenswards : they are obedient to the call of
the herdsman's BUZIO, a 111lge conch-shell that
serves as a horn and produces a musical note.
Love for Labour.-Of people ill this locality i11-
dustry is a marked characteristic ; so strong is
the illborn love for it that women are met i i i t l ~ e
roads and fields poising heavy loads on their
heads, carrying distaffs and spilldles in their
ha~zdsand spinilii~gas they trudge along under
their bardeas,
How Mourning is worn.-Natives of the Prazkres
liave customs peculiar to themselves. The wonlail
wlzo loses a near relation by death goes into
mounlingl by donning a head-dress of white cot-

' Chapter XIV., Ladies' Dress; Chapter XV., Attire of

Ladies of the Aristocracy.
218
ton stz~fl;it is sewed illto a Bind of square bag,
which is pulled ovcr the head so that it conceals
tlzc hdr, but allows the face to be thrust througli
an opei~ingcut in front and just large endugh for
s~zcli~ u r l ~ o s e .
The Observance of Mourning in Funcha1,-It is a
caston1 in the n~etropolis,Fuachal, when a death
S a family, for all the various fiieacls and
O C C U ~ ~in
acquai~ztancest o llrocure black-edged visitiag-
cards witli which to pay calls of sympathy and
coiiclolence. These cards are kept as an heirloom
by thc family in w11icli tlie deatli occurs, and the
multiplicity of blaclc-edged cards is a source of
great family pride.
On ail occasioll wlzell the writer called to offer
aympatlzy t o a Madeilnn friend of his who had
just lost liis znotlier, tlie writer was ushered illto
tlie p ~ ~ ~ l owhere
r n ; dirt ailcl disorder were the pre-
domiizlztiug fefeatul-es. Wheil the writer's friend
cntorcd lie was proinpt to malce ail cxcuse, whicll
110 evidently felt waa fzzlly ~ufficient. Bowing
sevo~*altimes with precision lze said, "I beg,
sir, that yo~zwill unclerstalzd this disorder, as
WC are in mo~zrniag." The writer recalls that
"a gleam of soinetl~ing almost approaching
221
 Cbe Zanb of the '1Slllfne
11~1maniiltelligcilce '' must have appeared o n his
hce, fol" his guest seemed t o feel that the writer's
expression coilveyed entire appreciatioa of the
situatioa.
The mourner showed ~vitligreat pride a silver
plattcr filled with black-edged visiting-cards, and
the11 led the writer to a closet crowded with pack-
ages tied and labelled. ('This closet," lie said,
with a smile of superiority, "is filled to over-
flowing with tributes of hoiiour to my family."
H e then took dowil several paclcages and undid
tllem. They coiztaiaed black-edged cards, and
some packages were inncli larger than others.
I3is great-graildfather must have been the most
~ o ~ u l aman
l * of the family, judgii~gfroin the
larger quai~tityof cards the package labelled
with his aame contained. When the time allotted
for the exl~ibitionof mother's cards llad ended,
they would be made into a package and placed
away in the closet.
It seemed that the family albnm of photographs,
which the writer's friend latterly exhibited, was
not a source of so much pride as the packages of
mo~~riling cards. The Madeira11 coacluded his
exhibition with the remal*B:-
222
 3ournege to Dietant pofnte
"I thiilk that I am right in saying that ~ . r c
h,ave more of these tributes of honour ill our
family than almost any other family in our
capital possesses."
 Part TTT
L
Ghe Qeogmphq anb Geologp
 TI-IE GGlilOC+RAPHP AND GEOLOGY

O ~ CC $ormation,--The
R ~ ~ M a d e i r a s i e.,
Madeira proper, Porto Santo, and the
Dcaertas-rise from the depths of the
-

At1aIlltic Ocean as the summits of vast moulltaills

built ages ago by mighty volcanic npheavals
and oul;l)o~-rrii~gs.
Situation of the Madeiras.-The group is sitn-
atccl ill u o r t l ~latitude 32' 43' and west longitude
IT0,at u distance of thirteen hundred and thirty
miles fi-om Southamptoa, five hundred and thirty
miles from Lisbon, and three hundred and twenty
rnilcs :from t h e North African coast.
The Time.-The time at the Madeisas is one
horu., rscvell minutes, and forty sec011ds later than
at Grconwich.
Soundings.-During the past few years a great
many soundings have been made in the North
Atlantic, ancl the fact has been established that
1.j.aes in the miclst of all ~ulfathomahle
227
 Cbe Zanb of tbe Wine
ocean. If the water could be drained ofl, the
island's summit woulld tower a little more tliail
20,000 feet above the sea's dry bed.
The Madeisas, the Salvages, the Canaries, and
the Cape Verdes would be found to be parts of a
submarine chain running fairly parallel with the
African coast. Now from this chain, during the
progress of tlie centuu.ics, other peaks will lilrcly
be tossed by volcanic ul~heavalto forill other
islni~dsand island groulps.
The shores of the Madeira11 coast, save wl~ere
aa occasiollal small beach slailts into the water,
are precipitous and drop perpenclicullarly below
the water.
111 son~eplaces alollg the sonthcastcrii coast;
the ocean reaches a depth of 100 fatlioilis withill
half a iliile of shore.
Basalt and Tufa.-111 one of the raviiles n~ark-
ing the czpl~roachto Fayall there is n large num-
ber of columns of basalt, a i d i11 tlie occaa near
Fayal a basaltic pillar riacs to a poiilt from a broad
base. Butwecil Machico and Canipl there are,
at short intervals, vertical surfaces, in reciyrocnl

Chapter X., Fayal.

228
succession, of basalt and tufa, rising to heights
varying from 275 to 500 feet, and ribbed length-
wise b y dikes, forlcing dowilwards-the forltiog
or bif~~rcation has never been found to be up-
wards in a single instance. The mountain cliE9
directly behiad Cailiqal arc broken off abruptly
in depths towards the ocean, aiid show many dip
liiles of strata, incliniilg southward. It has beell
reinarkcd by several geologists that the broken
ap1)earaace of tlie faces ~f the cliffs here argues
that a large l~ortionof the island was, in some
by-gone age, broken away here and swallowed
up in 'Gho ocea;ll from which it had in previous
ngcs arisen.
Size of ~adeii;t,--Itis said that Queen Isabella
ouce :~slredColurnbus to give her some idea of
the npy3earaace of the Island of Jamaica, and the
exl~lorcrtaking a piece of paper cr~lshedit and
then opened it out. " This," said he, " mill give
yooi Royal Majesty a better descri~tiollthan ally
wlzic11 I might be able t o tell you.". Such an apt
notioi~may answer wcll to describe the gco-
w~~al~l~ical
b conrormation of the island of &Iadeira,
which is thirty miles in lei~gthand twelve miles
 Snow.-The island shows a ceiltral ridge of
moulltaills runlling fiom east to west, its loftiest
summits-those from five thousand five hundred
to six tl~ousandfeet high-oftea covered with
snow.
Lava.-There are a few ancient lava cascades in
the moul~taiilonsdistricts of Madeira proper, near
the southern coast. At Porto Moiliz there is a
remarkable islet some two hundred feet in height
011 a base of basalt. This island is a dwelling-
place for sea-fowl; its steep sides are ii~accessiblo
t o huiuaaity. A t Porto Moiliz a great stream of
lava a t one time flowed over the cliffs into the
oceai~;this stream has left a solid mass that now
forms a reef1 nearly fifteen hundred feet beyond
the coast liae.
A s has been elsewhere statecl, Madeira was, in
couatless ages gone by, a inass of eruptive vol-
canoes, and there is still much lava to be found
in the mo~zntainfastilesses and in the valleys.
What Tufa is.-Many of the peasants i11 the
n&igIlbourhoodof Porto Moiliz live comfortably

l Another lava reef is at Seixal, Chapter XVII., Seixal,

and the road thither.
230
ill cavities cut illto the tuff or tufa. This is a
deposit of grailnlar atrnctwc, yellow ill colour
and very Diable. It is intercalated betwecll the
bids of llard rock, having originally poured from
tllc cratera i11 the form of mztd at a time whell the
volcanoes ejected triturated materials mixed with
steam, instead of lava cuweilts.
Earthquakes.--Occasionally there is a slight
cartllq~~ake shoclc. Thc shock that took place
on the ilight of Marcl1 31, 1748, was the only
ono at all disastrous in the recorded history of
Madcii*a. Tt b ~ * o ~ ~t og lthe
~ t groui~dparts of
many public ancl private buildings, and did con-
aidcrable clamage to the Cathedral. A sympa-
il~cticshoclc diatnrbcd the island on November
1, 1756, wllea the great earthquake destroyed
tile city of Lisbon. Another easthqualce which
q ~ ~ i frigllteaed
tc the iahabitai~tsand did some
slight damage in B~ulchalwas i11 January, 1816.
Coast 0onformation.-The coast abounds with
objebt~of ii~torcstfor the i ~ a t ~ ~ r amid
l i s t fol' every
lover of natusc in her wildest and most sublime*
aspects. Mouutaiils are precipitous at the water's
oclge alla benches are iufrcq~~cl~t. Sea-cliffs rise
ellcoy to lleigllts varying from five hundred to
I.-12 231
 Cbe Znrtb of tbe UUltte
nearly two thonsaild feet, their bases bathed with
foam aiid their summits crowliecl, wit11 clouds.
Age of the Island of Madeira.-It is p i t c ccr-
tail1 that the island of Madeira did nob riso from
tlie sea to its present lleigl~tsentire at ono stated
time, for there are existing proofs that ceiltain
~ortionsare ~nncliolder than othcrs. Little or
aothing is known as to tllc time when volcauic
action ceased; the atreams of lava at Porto
Moaia and at S. Ticeilte are of inore receilt d:110
than many other formations of tho island, als aiac
tlze Trachytcs of Porto da Crnz and the l*cgion
betwcell Calna do Lobos aild Funclld. For s
1011g time, however, the subter~~anean Alas havc
beell apparently cxtiact. Will1 the oxcc11l;ion of
a few iiiconsiderable eartl~clnadtcsthcra l l a ~becl1
110 recorded eruptioii aillee the discovery by
Machill, or. the rediscovery by %;/largo. I n ~ p i t c
of this the country lying betwccn illo Imsc of
Cabo Girgo a i d F~ulchalis brolcen by col~ical
hills, upon a ilnmbcr of wllicli slag aud vul-
canic ciilders remaiil, aiid bear tlze appc;arttl~ccal'
l~avingbecil throw~ltherc lrom somc l i c ~ yfnrnuco
but rccently. Traces reinain of strcams OF ltwa
aro~~ildthe foot of somc of tlzese llills, apl~arcntly
232
having flowed origiaally fkom the crater of some
great volcano.
Cabo GirZio, the Second Highest Sea-Cliff in the
World.-To the west of F~ulchaltowers Cabo
Gir$o, the loftiest sea-cliff of Madeira, and, with
thd exceptioli of one 011 the coast of Norway, the
higlzest in t l ~ world.
c Rising almost perpendicu-
larly, Cabo Girgo reacl~esan altitude of nineteen
hund lgcd~iililthirty-four feet above the water.
Quarries of Uantaria, Building-Stone.-On the
face of this gigailtic cliff are quarries of cantaria:
hard grayiah stone mucl1 used in bz~ilding.
I t is atated in Chapter 11. (paragraph headed
Cabo Gir$o) that Zargo, a f t e ~leaving F~~nchal,
procccdcd three miles to the westward and came
before a mighty precipice, wliieh he named Cabo
GtirBo. It is now only two miles distant fiom
Ftmcl~al,the city having enlarged a mile west-
ward since it was originally founded.
Geraniums, Broom, Cactus, and Prickly Pear.-The
xlmosl; pei-pendicnlnr sides of the sea-cliffs are
often covc~.*cd with wild geraliiums,2 broom, cac-
s , priclcly pear. At infreq~~el~t
t ~ ~and intervals
U
Chapter XII., Masonry.
a Chaptor XIX,, Flowering Plants.
25 6
 along the coast the ever-beating waves havc
broken a rocky promiilence and have ground the
fragments toget,her cl~lringco~ultlcssliigh tides
until shores have been built of t;heir crumb ling^,
I n such places 1.ocks towcr fiom the water ill
chaotic conf~~sion, ia the sbape of church-spiiles,
~vl~ich rear their points to great heights, or in
mountaiaous masses. Dnring times of stolbm,
when the sea runs high, water: is scen spurting
far up on the promontories.
Air-Holes and Caverns,-The spitay is thrown
up from mysterious air-holes, through wllicll it
seethes with hissing, boomiug, and grou1.1ing
noises t l ~ a tare weird ancl awe-inspiring to the
ui~familiarhearer. Batranccs to caves appear i11
the roclcy coast walls, ancl many of thc cavcllxls
are loag, winding, and high vazzltcd.
Tide.-The tidal wave1 strilres tha Madcirau a t
about the same tiino that it arrives a t tho Azolles,
and high water occ~zrsat thc time o f the S1111
inooil 01-of the new (or changc) a t ton znin~zleu
before 0110 o'clock in tile aftcrnuon. Tile ~ C ~ B L I I ~ O
of the ebb and flow of the tide is severf :hot, and

Chapter XI,, Climntio Sil;natioii.

280
CACTI PLANTS.
PONTA OELGAOA FROM SAO JORGE
 e o ~ r a p b panb BeoIogp
the flood runs at nearly a mile and tllree-qlmrters
an hour on spriilgs, N. 30° E.
The ~nhabiteb.Islands.-Of the four principal
islands a i d groups of islands which form the
Madeiras, or Madeiran group, but two are inhab-
ited. They are Madeira and Porto Santo. The
uninhabited groups are the Desertas and the
Salvages.
Porto Santa.-Porto Santo lies about twenty-
three miles northeast of Madeira. It is six and
one-third miles long and from two to three miles
across. I t s geology is of the same general vol-
cailic cliaracter as that of Madeira.
Ilheo de Baixo,-From a great deposit of coral
limestono in the Ilheo de Baixo, an islet off the
ao.~~tl~west coast of Porto Santo, is derived the
entire s ~ ~ l ~ofp llime
y used in Madeira. The stone
is quarried in liorizontal galleries, olle of which
exteiids across the islet.
Lime-Kilnsof Funcha1.-The calcic rock is shipped
to Fuizchal, where it is burned into lime ill kilns
situated near the Leper Hospital of 850 Lazaro.'
The Ilheo cle Baixo is ail old coral reef, with an

Chapter VII., Leprosy and.the Leper Hospital.

239
 &'he Zanb of the 11XSXfne
average elevation of two huildred feet above the
oceaa and a peak some five huadred and eighty
feet i a height.
Fossil Land,--Near the base of the Piedade
Peak and on the Polita de (promontory of) S%o
Lonrelqo is the fossil bed: a curious geological
formation, closely resembliilg a petrified forest ;
thc trunks of ancient trees, the iiltcrlacing of
branclies, and the fallen limbs and twigs being
all equally faithfully represei~ted. But it is ques-
tioned among t l ~ escie~ltistswhether this fossil
land is indeed a petrified forest or is not rather a
collectios of stalactitea formed in the sand by
the percolation of rain water, which, after diseolv-
ing certain portioas of the carbonate of lime, has
redeposited it in the 'fantastic shapes now seen.
Anotlicr argument is that wl1ic1-1 was advanced
by Darwin to explain tlie existei~ceof a aimilar
loolsring deposit he had seen i11 Southwest Ans-
tralia. Darwin said :
"One day I accompanied Captain Fitzroy to Bald Head,
the place mentioned by so many navigators, where some
imagine they saw corals, and others that they saw petrified

' Chapter VIII., The Fossil Bed,

240
 (Beo~raphpanb GeoIogp
trees standing .in the position in which they had grown. Ac-
cording to our view the bcds had been formed by the wind
having heaped up fine sand composed of minute rounded
particles of shells and corals, during which process branches
and roots of trees, together with many shells, became enclosed.
The whole theil bccame consolidated by the percolation of
calcareous m natter, and the cylindrical cavities lefb by the
decaying of the wood wcre thus also filled, up with a hard
pseudo-stalactical stone. Thc weather is now wearing away
the softer parts, and in consequence the hard casts of the
roots nud branclies of the trees projcct above the surface, and
in a singularly deceptivc manner resemble the stimps of a
deacl thicket."

Mr. T. Edwarcl Bowdich visited the Madeillan

fossil bed in the autumn of 3.823, and in his
boolc, '' Exct~r,gionsin Madeira and Porto Sailto,')
p~iblishcdin Lolldoll in 1885, he gives an account
of his visit to fossil land and s ~ ~ p p o rthc
t s argu-
ment of its being a petrified forest, in a maaner
in accordai~cewith Mr. Darwin's theory explain-
ing the existence of a siiililar fossil land i11 Bouth-
wcst Australia.
Mr. ~owdTch'sstatemeilt is convincing; and
as his account of fossil land pictures it vividly,
s s the writer has so often seen it, the libei~tyis
talcell to quote lzia account herewith :
241
 Ube $anb of the "QUllne
"We reached a depression, more like a basin than a plain,
covered with a deep bed of loose and agglutinated sand.
These sands have in some degree been fixed or bound by the
numerous brauches of forest-trees which they have enveloped,
for these branches (which have preserved their lateral twigs)
are so numerous'that they are spread over the surface, like a
network of stoloniferous roots. I t is scarcely possible to set
the foot on the ground without treading on them. Both the
branches and the trunks (which stand on their roots in their
natural position) are encased in a thick, hard sheath of agglu-
tinated sand, which has followed the external configuration
of the mood like a cast, I n some instances the wood has
entirely perished, and the envelopes are found void like tubes,
but most frequently the wood is found within, as a distinct
mass, and has become sufficiently siliceous to scratch arrago-
nite. The tallest fragments of truilks reach about a foot
above the surface of the sand ; how far beneath it I cannot
say : there were two of these as thick as my body. Some-
times embedded in the envelopes of the wood, but
in the looser sand of the surface, were innumerable fossil-
shells, intermingled promiscuously; t w o species terrestrial,
the third belonging to a marine genus."

Land-Shells Peculiar to Porto Santo.-There are

several varieties of land-shells to found along
the coast of Porto Santo wliich are peculiar to
that island, a114 which are, therefore, of sgecitll
interest to the visiting geologist.
242
 Life at Porto Santa.-Although Porto Sen13;ta
was, as already mentioned,' the h t i&nd of h
Madeira group discovei.ed, and w a settled mare
than fo~wcenturies ago, its ~ q t ~ j l a t i otnc h y
numbers all told scarcely two thousand IEmonrs.
Nearly all of these live in the one a11d only town,
Villa Baleir~a,where an administrator .rid=,
vho rules over this stationary population.
While referring to the community of P ~ r t o
Santo the writer cannot desist from quoting a
paragraph descriptive of the s t a p n t life on that
isla~ld.~The clever observations m d e by Mr.
Bomdich in Porto Santo three-quarters of a mm-
tury ago are equally applicable b the s b k of
affairs existing there at the p m n t day. The
~ a g s a p runs
h as follows :

"The white sandy beach of Porto k t o to p&

me R different geological field for okrvert*i~ntto W of
Madeira, and I was all impatienm to get ashore; bat it W=
necessary that I should hare the governor's petnuhian ta, &
so, which the capbin of the boat was despatched to p m m ;

Chapter II., Discovery and Naming of Porto &to.

P'cExcursions in Madeir%and Porto h t Q duriqg h
Autumn of 1823," by the late T. Fdward BowW.
243
 Cbe Zanb of tbe "4jQlfite
for the economical nature of the government did not permit
any Mercury to be in attendance for this purpose ; and, indeed,
during the three days I resided there I could never discover
that the governor had more than one king's servant under his
command, for all the purposes of ordinary state, and he (dis-
tinguished by being clothed in tattered remnants of various
uniforms) opened the gates, hoisted the flag, beat the drum at
sunrise and sunset, swept the yard, helped in the kitchen, agd
waited at table when the governor had company. I should
mention that the governor himself, a major in the army, has
only six hundred dollars a year from the government, depend-
k g for anything more on his own ingenuity. The captain of
the boat tied his better suit of clothes in a handkerchief,
which he held on the top of his head, and, plunging into the
water, swam ashore; but, although he quitted us at seven
o'clock, it was thought dcrogatory by the govzrnor's servant
to acknowledge that his excellency had risen until nine, and
then he must breakfast before he could grant the audience;
in which he graciously permitted us to come ashore, in a place
where there seemed nobody but himself and the drummer to
prevent us. The landing is almost as bad as that at Punchal.
I begged to wash myself before I proceeded to the governor's,
and was bowed into a stable and furnished with a decanter of
water, not as the most convenient, but as the most splendid
vessel that could be immediately laid hold of in the neigh-
bourhood. The governor's house looked like that of the law-
yer in a small village in England; it was very neat, of one
story, and contained but two sitting-rooms, one of which, how-
ever, was spacious and very comfortably furnished. A row
244
 Geographp anb GeoIogp
.of cannons (some of which had fallen from their carriages,
whilst the others, from their monstrous touch-holes and rusty
condition, were emblems of peace rather than war, and fit
subjects for a society of antiquaries) adorned the turf before
the house, and a second row, in sufficiently good condition
for the gunner or drummer to fire a salute with some safety,
was ranged in the yard. We were given to understand that
we should find the governor in his library, which proved to
be a small room level wit11 the court, adorned with about a
dozen books, tho drum, some old maps of Banson and-~ansens
(more useful for giving an idea of the history than of the
actui~lstate of geography), and some rude drawings of his
son's, a genteel, smart boy, about thirteen years of age. His
excelleucy was hard at work in a cotton jacket, writing
despatches to Madeira, the unexpected appearance of our
boat having flfittered him with the rare opportunity of com-
municntil~gthe unchangeable state of things in Porto Santo
to his superior. H e received me with the greatest politeness,
and begged me tb believe that both he and his house were at
my service, and sending for the commandant (an old man of
seventy, distinguished by a red edging to his great coat),
charged him to order one of the most intelligent of the better
class of peasantry, on his allegiance ns a militiaman, to nccom-
puny and direct me in my rambles through, the island!'

Local.Stearnship Service.-The only communica-

1;ioa which tllese literdly C'insular" 13eople of
Porto Sailto have had until recently wit11 the
outside world haa beell by a single small coasting
246
 &be Zanb of the U i n e
steamer, the _IiaZci?ol (Falcon), which plied be-
tween Madeira and Porto Santo twice every
month, conveyii~gthe mails and affording a means
of transportatioil for not exceedii~gforty passen-
gers. A larger steamer has recently beell built
fos service to the north'coast of Madeira aad to
Porto Santo.
The Desertas.-The Desertas, about tell miles
southeast of Madeira, comprise three toweriag
rocky islands. Deserta Grande, the largest,
towers out of the sea t o a height in some places
of over sixteen hundred feet. It varies froin half
a mile to a mile i11 width, and is about six milea
lo11g.
The Salvages.-The Salvages, another group of
three islands, lie about one hundred and fifty-six
miles from Madeira and between Madeira and the
Canaries. The largest of the Salvages is the
Great Pitoil, a mile i11 width by three miles ill
length.

The Falciio is described in Chapter VIII., By Steamer to

Santa Cruz.
 ALTITUDES

Gable of 91:lel~ht$.-- Tllc followiilg table

givcs in Englisll feet tlie heights above
sea-level of the priiicil~allmo~ult
aim wild
localities of interest in the Madeirarr group .

Madeira
Denuory .............
Quintn do Vnl . . . . . . . . . . . .
Lovndn clo Santn Luzia . . . . . . . . .
Silo Jorgo . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
8nnt.n Aniin I-Totel . . . . . . . . . .
SRo Roqua C h u r c l ~ . . . . . . . . . .
Mirnnte Vista do Macllico . . . . . . . .
Portolln Pass . . . . . . . . . . . .
Pnlhoiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Penhn d'hguin . . . . . . . . . . . .
Cabo Gtirtlo . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Mount Church . . . . . .. . . . . . .
l Freirns . . . . .
Cliurol~in the C u r r t ~ daa
Church at Gnmnchn ancl Snnto Antonio do Serra
.
Mr Voitch's houso aL Jardim da Scrm . . . .
Lovncln in Riboiro Frio and R i b e h dn Motade
Pico cXa Cruz Cnrnl~nnario........
247
 Ube Zanb of the llZnftte
Pico dos Bodes . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3726
. . . . . . . . . . . . 3844
Pico do Arrebeiltiio
Encumindn d e 650Vicento . . . . . . . . . 4000
Pico dn LngOa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4762
. . . . . . . 6210
Pico Buivo ou the l'aiil da Sarra
Pico Grande . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6391
Pico do Areeiro . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5803
. . . . . . 6980
Pico dns Torrinhns do Boa Venturn
. . . . . G000
Pico dns Torrinllns (or Torres) do Poizo
Pico Rilivo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . G056

. . . . . l(i0
Snil Roulr. off north end of Ilhao Ch&o
Ilheo Chtlo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38G
Bugio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1349
DesorGi~Grnado. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1010
PovJo flavcllto
Illleo do Cimn . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 804:
Illioo da Bnixo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . 670
Pico tl'hrmn Pcrroirn . . . . . . . . . . . 911
Pico Brnllco . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 138'3
PiaotloCnstollo . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1440
Pico do Fnclio . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1G0S
Among the Mountains,- Chaptor TIT an ac-
111 .
co~zntis give11 aP a11 cxc~z~*sion
in tho mountuine
by way of' tho Little Curral to tho ~urnrnitof' Pico
do dreeiro, ailcl thc views coinmaiidod by tha
248
cxcursiollist stailding on the summit are fully
described. Melltioil is made of Picos Ruivo,
Ciclrfio, Canario, and Torres, of which the summit
of Pico do Arceiro colllmands a fine view. The
Grand Cuwal is also seen a t the base of a circu-
lar group of moniltaiiis rising i11 spire-like peaks
about it. Tbe Pico do Areeiro itself ove~looks
the Grand Curral and completes the circle of sus-
rouncliag mo~ultains,
Faya1.-The a1q)roacll to Bayal1 by laid can be
made throug11 either one of three great ravines
which divide the rnotlntaiil ranges in this section
of the coiultry, and whose waters col~vergenear
Fnyal, wllerc they enter the oceczn in a single
laige stream at the wester11 base of Peilha
d'Ag~zis. The village of Fayal is fiituated in a
beautiful fertile valley, where the leading indus-
try is the growiag of sugar-cane.2 The only
building worthy of special meiltioll is the church,
ol' 1)wc"liararcl~itectareand situated in the heart
of luxuriailt vegetation of every kind.
Penha d'Aguia.-Frowning down from the dizzy
heigl11; of 1915 feet above the sea is the summit
l Chapter IX., Basalt and Tufa.
a Chapter XVI., Sugar.
240
 Cbe %anb of tbe Ufne
of a mighty truncated pyramid of rock kl~owllas
the Penha d'dguia. A pleasant journey, occu-
pying a day's time, can be made from Santa
Aniial to the top of Peaha, which colllmailds a
wonderful view of the islal~d'sconformation.
From the summit of Penha the vision sweeps
the chaotic centre of the isltbnd, where the tum-
bling mountain rangcs rise one above the other,
and Picos Ruivo, Torres, and ~ h e e i r opierce their
way above the clouds. Other lower Picos, de
Jotio Perado and da Suna, mount skyward above
hollow earth channels that descend froin them to
the sea at Porto da Cmz.

Chapter VI., Lodging a t Santa Anna.

 ~flllatfc%ftt\a#on,-Situated between the
, isothcrmals of 64" and 68" F., the cli-
mate of the Madeira Islands is marked
by a singular unifo~mityof temperature. It is
atatcd by aortain scientists tliat this is due ill
great part to its poaition ill the midst of the
occnil, wllence its atmosphere is at all times
drawing a supply of aqucons vapours.
EIurnidity,--On accoui~tof the warm cnrpentl
that flows by it, tlierc is a mncli larger quantity
of woistura in the air of Madeira2 than thcre
would otherwise be. Dr. Tyndall, an Ellglish
wcicntiat, ahows that tlia water suspended over-
head as vapour protects the earth in tlic same
way that warm clothirig protects the body, at one
time ai~estingthc heat rays of the sun and again
lcssonil~gt l ~ c~*adiatioaof heat from the earth

Cl~npterIX., Tide.
"Ohaptor VII., Whore tho Redo is Desirable,
Et-18 263
 Cbe Zanb of tbe lllllfne
into space. The atmosphere of Englalld coataias,
011 an average, but one particle of water to two
hundred particles of air, but that one particle
absorbs eiglity times as much heat as the col-
lective two huizdred air l~articles.
Northeast Trade-Wind.-From April 10 to Sep-
tember 10 the nortlleaat trade-wind blows oil
Madeira, b ~ dnrillg
~ t the winter season tlle island
is some four degrees beyond tlle limits of the
trade-wind, thoug11 the prevailillg wind, which
blows irregularly, is eve11 the11 Born the aortl~east.
Occasionally i11 the spriilg the noi~tliwillcl blows
over the central ridge of motultains and rushes
down its slopes, c a ~ ~ s i damage
ng to tile vineyards.
The Leste.-The warm, dry east wind, which
blows from thc African desert in summer-time,
'

and in Madeira is Bllowll as the '"esie," is the

same willcl whicli in Soutllenl Eurol~estrikes
hot and cold i11 various placea. 111 Switzcrlai~d,
for instaace, the Afiican wind, there called tlle
6ise,)' is a cold, icy wind ; this is bccause, while
blowing across the pealrs of the lofty Alpa, which
arc: pcr.l~etnally covered with snow and ice, it
loses all its heat and sand. Indeed, when it pours
dowi~into a Swiss vdley it sexlda a chill through
264
cvery one on the hottest and most sunshiny day
in summer. I t is wheil an nntzsnally violent east
wind aweeps over the great Desert of Sahara that
its cEocts arc felt i11 the Madeira, Islallds, althomgli
tlicy are distailt some three hlniidred and twenty
lniloa from the African c0tlst.l But, atrange as
it may seem, tile hot mild is ca~~glit LIP from the
desc!rt in swidii-rgwind-clo~zdsand thus conveyed,
1;lirougIit,ho azure heights of tlle upper air, across
tho sea to tho Madeira Ialailds ; it is also thus
ctarricd to tlie Canaries. A t Madeira such a storm
nlq'cars fikr out a t Bca and coming onward with
vclacity,
Sand fkom the Desert of Sahara.--Dauly cloths
t~rs~soinetixnos lit111g ovcl*the wiildows in houses
to koop out the aand wit11 which the air is often
latlcn at thia time.
Havoc wrought by the Leste,--After the saud-
~torm,wlricln occ111)ies anywhere from a couple
of llonrs to three daya in passing, destruction is
fo~xndin tllo most u111ooked-for places. IIoles
a ~ bnracd
o occasionally thilo~zglihedges, and the
laavce and filrnallei1brallclies 011 the siclea of trees

ahapter IX,, Situntioll of the Mudeiras.

256
exposed to the hot storm's violence are some-
times fo~zndscorclled to crumbling dryness. Be-
yond this there is hardly if ever any other serious
damage wrought that is worthy of mention;
and there is very little personal discomfort
felt. A distinguished resident at Madeira
writes, "I never saw or felt any ill-effect from
leste."
Rain,-At the end of summer the equinoctial
rains, accompanied by much lightning and little
thunder, set in. The average rainfall, taken' from
seventeen years' observations, has bee11 found to
be 26.71 ii~ches. The accomlsallyiug table of
meteorological observations1 gives a coilcise idea
of the atrnospl~ericcharacteristics of the Madeira11
climate.
Clouds.-While the rainfall in Madeira is slight
and infinoqzzeat,there is aeldorn a cloudless day,
tlie mountain-l~aksbeing constantly bathed in
ilebulous vapours.
Air.--The air is sedative and collducive to rest,
which is m advantage tdqinvstlids that come to
Nadeira suffering fiom nervous complaints.

l Chapter VII., The Meteorological Observatory.

266
 Warning t o the Invalid,-It lnay llcre be aaid
thal; it is urlndvisablo for au ilzvalidl to come to
Mncloirh zzut~ttunclod; tlicro liave beell inany sad
cnaiw ~vlioretllo clging liave had 110 oilc st hand
t o 11~11101- undcratt~udthem.
The Story of an Xnva1id.-'I1lio writcr recalls wit11

frarwl can~tzrlzl)tion, who was L: viaitoi*to t11e islancl.

ill 1,889. 'Pho llama by wllicli tllc gentlc~na~i was
I < ~ I c ) w x ~ wag :MI*.Ookoinai~,$11~1,like ~nailyof tlm
ltll~~itllr hc W Z ~ M
t~l'i~toci~atfl, highly cducatcd aiid
tvull-iilh~nlc~cl,ITo upolcc rjarnc oight or toll lan-
guag,.oR Lluuntly uzid wtts n most delightful and
canlerb2;~tiuing 11;was a plcnsrzrc
aaavc~~antion~llisl;.
t o mcct him, for, tl~orlgl~ hc szzflcrcd intonacly, he
was ~dwaysIsi~iglltrind c l l c c ~ ~ tmid ~ l , hia facc
wuru n radiant ~ m i l o , :Lt waa his joy t o bc whccled
illto the gttrdun ill a rolling-clinir and thcrc to sit
among I;bo sccntcd llowo~sand hea1-1ccn l;o the
aong8 ol'.tllo oann,i*icsaa they flitted ovorllca,d in

l C11npl;or IV,, Why Mnrloira in Enpooinlly Interesting to

dls Worlcl ; W11npl;ur XYI,, A Watering-Place and Hcalth-

Rosor t.
268
THE INVALID'S DELIGHT, A HOTEL GARDEN.
 CTfmate
the bright sunshine. He had lived a highly inkF.
esting life, and had penetrated the *l& of c i ~ ~
and Siberia and gone through the tbrining
experiences in the interests of hie pyBmawnt
It was while t h ~ l sengaged that he had m n t m a
his deadly malady, and hc had come to
accompanied by aeither kith nor kin, h a p m t h k
a winter passed in the salubrioues climrmk mkht
restore his former health. But one day the bp
who was accustomed to seek him in the
missed him, and on going to his rwrn
a t the door b y his faithful attendant, who in a
sobbing voice said that +his ma5ttlr"s spirit h d
just passed to a blighter and better world. m
writer was one of the few mourners at the
A Russian war-ship called for the remains,
Mr. Ootoman's Identity.-It wa6; discovered tftbt
the deceased Mr. Ootoman was nono other tban
a distinguished member of the q a l family rrf
Russia. I n his case there was a devated at-
tendant, who knew him in his true ~ 4 1 ~ i&9 ,
his bedside when death stole u p n him 5 bat
many h a l i d s who could well afford a trusty
companion come to Nadeira ummom~nied,
suffering from dangerous mahdim
261
 Health, and how t o keep it.-As was said in
Chapter V.,' great care sl~otlldbe talcell by the
well and strong as well as by invalids to avoid
violent exercise before becoming acelimated.
Discrimination as to diet2 and a careful self-
watchfulness are ea.1.nestiy recommended, for in
t h e bl~iglltsnnshine and scarcely varying tem-
perature the new-corner is tempted to run undne
risk.

It occuvred to the writer, just befol-c sending

this volume to press, that ,z list of the present-
day leading physiciails in Uadeira would be dc-
sirable as a reference for all visitors to the island
-one is always better satisfied to know precisely
as t o the medical aid a t hand a t a, distant place
before going thither.
Through the kind co-operation of the United
States Consul, Mr. T. C. Jones, in this matter,
the ml-itei* is enabled to give a complete list
of IIadeira's leading practising physicians and
dental ,surgeons.
Chapter V.,How to avoid Sunstroke.
Chapter V,, Diet for the New-Corner.
262
 English
Dr. M. C. Grabham, Dr. R. E. S. Krohn,
Dr. F. 5.Hicks, Dr. J. Geddes Scott,
D r . B. R. Conolly.

Portuguese
Dr. V. Machado, Dr. Nuno Silvestre Teixeira,
L.
Dr. J. Larica, Dr. Pedro Lomelino,
Dr. M. Sequeira, Dr. Abel Vaaconcellos,
Contle de Cnnnavial, Dr. V. Ornellas,
Dr. M. Pitta, Dr. Anthero de Menezes,
Dr. Silvestre, Dr. Jose Joaquim de Freitas,
Dr. L. Gaspar, Dr. J. de Carvalho,
Dr. J O ~ A. OTeixeira, Dr. Carlos Leite Monteiro,
Dr. Art;hur Leite Monteiro.

Dr. Azevedo Ramos, Dental Surgeon.

Dr. Jayme de SA, Dental Surgeon.
 fl IQostscrlpt to tbe preface

while the writer of this work believes strictly in the his-

torical version of t h e prediscovery of the Madeira Islands
by Robert S Machiu (as his own arguments in the preface, as
well as in the body of this work, will show), he, nevertheless,
appends herewith, i n condensed form, some of the most able
of the contrary arguments, in order that his readers may have
a view of both sides of the much discussed question.
TO start at the very beginning, it is claimed by certain
wrilers as possible that the early P h ~ n i c i a n s happened
upon those islands now known as the Nadeiran group in the
course of some of their many daring voyages in quest of new
territory. But a s there is no evidence of any character what-
soever either in ancient history or folk-lore to show that the
Plicenicians actually visited tbheseislands, the foregoing theory
wo~rldseem to develop into mere conjecture.
The distinguished historian and scientisb of Madeira, Mr.
James Yate Johnson, whose death, greatly to be mourned,
was reported in the newspapers shortly before the publica-
tioll of this work, tells us how, at a later ~ e r i o dPliny
, recounts
Icing Jubn's voyage of exploration, and makes mention of
certain Parple o r Mauritanian Islands.
Ofthese island8 Mr. Johnson writes that their position,
265
 %L @oetecrfpt t o tbe Drsreface
with reference to the Fortunate Islands (which appear to be
plainly enough identified with the Canaries), seems to point
out the Macleiras as those intended. To further quote Mr.
Johnson, and in his own words, he says :
" I t was here that the king contemplated nn establishment
for oxtractiug the dye termed Goetulian purple, but whether
anilnal or vegetable matter was to supply the colour is not
manifest. Ptolemy speaks of an island in this part of the
Atlnnl,ic Ocean, under the name of Erythia, which may be
tmnslnted Red Island, and it has been thought thnt reference
was here agnin madc to the fact of purple dye being obtained
thero. Then, for hundred of years, these islands have no'
plnce in history. An Arab Iiistorian of the eleventh century
nnrrntcs thnt an expedition of his people set forth from Lisbon
in the 11iuhl1 century, and having discovered an island, which
il is suggested was Madeira, gave to it the name of El Gllanam.
Nothing more, however, is heard of the Arabs in eonneotio~l
with Mndeira except as corsairs making occasional descents
upon the islands!'
Another writer, who has made some researob porlaining to
the aarly history of the Madeira Islands, states positively
thnt there wero eight Maghurin, whose voyage from Lisbon
early 'in the twelfth. century to an island which has been
iden~ifiedby M, d'Aveznc as Legname, the ancient name of
Mndeirn, is recorded by Edrisi. (See I. do Lolcgnam~on
the Medici Map, pago 50, Vol. I., and the text cle3criptivo of
the map on the page facing it.)
Of the history of Machin, n distinguished Portuguese resi-
dent iu Madeira writes :
266
 fl U3oatacrfpt to tbe DreIace
" Tllo story of Maohin has no more right to be believed.
aritica hnve destroyed it."
.A. cortnili English writer who has delved somewhat into
tuloioul; liislory mnlces the following claim :
" Tho Gunoeao Ferestrello, the father-in-law of Colurnbus,
n nzo~rlhorof t l ~ ohousehold of Prince Henry, was driven t o
.L30rLoRjtulLo in liis onravel whilst on a voyage of discovery to
CLLI)~ 130jnclor in 1418; nnd it was from his report to bis
I'riaca that Zergo was sont to Madeira in the followi'ng year.
'l'ho sl;n(;ornant tlint Zargo himself learnt of the existence of
!,ha lt~rgoisland from n captured Spanish sailor who had m e t
in cnptivil;y in Morocco some of Macliin's crew, does not
q)l)ottr to rost; on nny tostirnony worthy of the name; and
c:onsicloring tllnt nt lenai; seventy years elapsed between
M~~nollin'a ~npposodvisit and Zargo'a expedition, it is on the
fLccoof il;improbr~ble;whilst Perestrello's report to the P r i n c e
in 1418 resh on sound evidence."