PHULKARI OF PUNJAB Phulkari, literally means flower-embroidery and it certainly creates a flowery surface .

Its distinctive feature is the simplicity of its stitch, the darning like the demask , worked form the back. The pulkari word means growing flowers. This embroidery form, true to its name includes only floral motifs in bright colors. There is sanctity to the art form as the canopy over Guru Granth Sahib, the religious book of the Sikhs is of phulkari. The phulkari with very intricate floral patterns is called Bagh that means garden. It is primarily used on the odhanies and dupattas. It is considered auspicious for the bride and for the new born. It is worn on ceremonies. Phulkari for some time now is being used in home furnishings specially wall hangings, sofa throws and other soft furnishings. History of Phulkari The origin of phulkari can not exactly be traced. Reference of Punjabi embroidery though goes nack to 2000 years back to the vedic ages. Phulkari has been mentioned in the famous tale of Heer-Ranjha by the poet Waris Shah. Its present form and popularity goes back to 15th century, during Maharaja Ranjit Singh's Reign. Phulkari work being laborious and time consuming can only be a leisure hour occupation. But because of its social and ritual importance, it is pursued with great devotion and even passion .For it forms an important item in the brides trousseau and the girl starts working on it from a very early age and her proficiency in needle work being judged by the number of patterns she could master for each has to be worked to a particular formula. At one time it also determined her eligibility as a prospective bride. The Phulkari is also worn at a certain wedding ceremony called the phera and this piece has a very special design on it. It was not for sale. The ladies used to make these for personal use. It was included in the bridal trousseau. It was considered auspicious. There is a different phulkari for every occasion. The daughter from her mother learned the art just as she learnt other chores. Process

The embroidery is done from the wrong side. The counting of the thread controls the pattern, but quite often the outline of the pattern is embroidered on the cloth in green thread. The needle picks up only one thread at a time, so that the back of the pattern is delineated with single lines of color in extremely fine stitches. In the front the stitch ranges from 1/2 to1/4 cms in size. In the bagh, a single thread of the base material separates one pattern from the other. Thus an area is divided into twelve squares by this fine line, the squares themselves being covered with stitches going in different directions. As it is done on a thick material the embroider can work without a frame. The stitches used are darning, stem, herringbone, satin, straight, back, running, blanket, split, cross, and chain stich. Phulkari differs from bagh, as in the former larger portions of the base material are visible, the design being scattered. In the latter, the embroidery covers the surface so as to become the material itself. In another form, the chope, which is presented to the bride by her grandmother-in-law, the embroidery is done in yellow with occasional touches of blue or green only on the borders, the field, always red is left plain. Here there is no right or wrong side, the stitches being even on both sides. Phulkari is traditionally done on a handspun khadi cloth with simple darning stitches using the un spun silk floss yarn called 'pat'. Single strand threads are used for the purpose. The simple stitches in the adept hands make it one of the most sought after embroidery craft. Shading and variation is often obtained by the using horizontal, vertical or diagonal stitches. There are a variety of phulkari styles used for different occasions and purposes. The Chope, is red colored cloth with embroidered borders usually presented to the bride by her grandmother during a ceremony before the wedding. Vari-da-bagh (bagh of the trousseau) is also on a red cloth with golden yellow embroidery symbolizing happiness and fertility. The entire cloth is covered patterns smaller ones

within the border and intricately worked in different colors. Ghunghat bagh or sari-pallau (covering for the head) has a small border on all four sides. In the center of each side, which covers the head, a large triangular motif is worked. Bawan bagh (fifty-two in Punjabi) has as many geometrical patterns. Darshan dwar (the gate offering a view of the deity) is usually for presentation in temples or to adorn the walls of the home when the Granth Sahib (holy book of the Sikhs) is brought to a house. The theme is a decorative gate. Suber is a phulkari worn by a bride during marriage rites. It comprises five motifs, one in the center and one each in the four corners. Chamba is a hybrid phulkari having a series of wavy creepers, stylized leaves and flowers. Besides this, designs inspired by various day to day items, fauna and flora around us also found their way into this craft. Surajmukhi (sunflower) is a cross between a chope and ordinary bagh in brilliant yellow, which creates a stunning effect. Mor or tota is one that has a peacock or parrot motif. Mirchi, as the name suggests, has chilies in red, orange or green usually on brown. Belan and parantha symbolize the rolling pin and leavened bread. Ikka or ace of diamonds has been inspired by playing cards. Satrang is a seven-colored phulkari. Jewellery items like bangles, earrings, etc., are also embroidered At times, a snake was embroidered, guarding a woman's treasure. Another variety popular in Haryana was the Sheeshedar where small, round, matt-dull mirror pieces were included in the embroidered motifs.

Traditionally, the phulkaris and baghs were never sold in the markets as they were only woven by the women of the house for their personal use Besides this, designs inspired by various day to day items, fauna and flora like sunflowers, peacock, red chilies, ace of diamonds and so on.

Phulkari For Different Occasions Phulkaris were also made for religious ceremonies or to be used at other festive times. A phulkari is sanctified to be used as the canopy over the holy book of the Sikhs, the 'Guru Granth Sahib'. For each different occasion, for each different setting, the versatile fingers and fertile imagination of the women of Punjab designed an impressive selection of phulkaris