Stella Service Station Manual

SERVICE STATION MANUAL
FOREWORD
Genuine Scooter Company and LML Limited have joined forces to produce a world-class
motor scooter specifically for the North American market. Genuine Scooter Company
presents the STELLA scooter here with a thorough description and detailed manual suitable
for use by any professional service facility within their dealer network.
STELLA is a wonderful combination of efforts, "designed in Italy by people who know great
design, assembled and modified in Asia by expert manufacturers at LML, and marketed in
North America by people who have built credibility in the scooter business for over 10
years."
We proudly introduce STELLA, and wish you many years of safe, fun, and economical
scootering.
This manual will provide you with :
l General instructions on vehicle maintenance.
l General instructions for eliminating faults and irregularities.
l Illustration and instructions for dismantling, overhauling and reassembly.
This manual also describes in detail the various tools available through Genuine Scooter
Company. We may, at a later date, introduce addendums or further updates to this useful
manual.
Kindly address all your communications in this regard to the following address.
Customer Care
Genuine Scooter Company
5400 North Damen Ave.
Chicago, Illinois
60625
www.genuinescooters.com
1
CONTENTS
DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.
GENERAL INFORMATION 4
ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS 10
AIR - FUEL SYSTEM 29
CARE AND MAINTENANCE 45
RECOMMENDED OILS AND LUBRICANTS 63
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS 65
DISMANTLING - OVERHAULING - REASSEMBLY 71
ENGINE 72
ASSEMBLY CLEARANCES, TOLERANCES & LIMITS 83
IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES 85
ENGINE FOUNDATION BUFFERS & TUBE 92
CHASSIS 94
FAULT FINDING AND REMEDIES 110
SUITABLE RECOMENDATIONS 112
2
GENERAL INFORMATION
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION 5
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS 6
INTRODUCTION 8
SAFETY FIRST! 9
3
VEHICLE IDENTIFICATION
The vehicle is identified by two numbers: One

number is on the chassis and another is on the
engine.
The chassis identification number is stamped on the
right hand side of the rear portion of the chassis
frame (Fig. 1): The first row of this number will begin
MD7CG84A..., and the second row will have 8
characters.
Fig. 1
Chassis Identification Number
The engine number is stamped on the crankcase

(Fig. 2), and will have the prefix E17...3 followed by 8
characters.
7Y3
*E1
X
*
XXXXX*
*
Fig. 2
Engine Identification Number
Each Stella scooter comes with one set of duplicate

keys; both keys are stamped with an identification
number. Remember where you place your duplicate
key.
Fig. 3
Keys
4
TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS
DESCRIPTION
DIMENSIONS
Overall length 5.77 feet 1760 mm
Overall width 2.28 feet 695 mm
Wheel base 4.05 feet 1235 mm
Maximum road clearance 0.52 feet 160 mm
Seat height 2.69 feet 820 mm
WEIGHT
Vehicle dry weight 240 lbs 109 kg
Maximum technically permissible mass 595 lbs 270 kg
ENGINE Single cylinder, two stroke, forced air cooled with

rotary distribution, 5 transfer ports and reed valve
induction with catalytic converter.
Displacement 149.56 cc
Bore 2.27 feet 57.8 mm
Stroke 2.24 feet 57.0 mm
Compression ratio 9.0 ± 0.5 :1
Maximum output/power 8 ± 0.3 bhp @ 5500 ± 200 RPM
Ignition System Capacitor Discharge Ignition (CDI) Electronic
Ignition timing 20° ± 2° before TDC
FUEL Un-leaded 87 octane petrol with automatic mixing of
Motorcycle-Formulated Two stroke oil
Fuel tank capacity 2.11 gallon (inclusive of 0.26 gallon in reserve)
Oil tank capacity 0.26 gallon
Fuel Cock Three way tap. Open (ON), Close (C), Reserve (R)
CARBURETTOR SPACO - 20 / 20D, Downdraft, 20 mm venturi
SPARK PLUG RN9YC - Champion,

B6ES - NGK,
WR8DC - Mico
Spark plug gap 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm

STARTING Push button for autostart &
kick pedal for manual start.
CLUTCH Multiplate, oil bath type.
5
DESCRIPTION
TRANSMISSION 4 speed constant mesh
Over all gear ratio

1st gear 15.38:1
2nd gear 10.46:1
3rd gear 7.24:1
4th gear 5.39:1
CHASSIS Pressed steel sheet, monocoque structure.

Steering column The steering column is connected at the front wheel
swinging hub.
Suspension Turbo Cushion front and rear suspension with helical
spring and hydraulic dampers.
BRAKES
Front brake Hydraulic Disc brake.
Rear brake Drum brake, mechanical expanding shoe type.
TYRE
Front & Rear 3.5 x 10" (89 x 254mm) 4 Ply rating, interchangeable.
Tyre pressure
Front 22 psi *
Rear 29 psi *
* - Varies with temperature.
CONTROLS
Steering By Handle bar
Accelerator Twist grip type on right side of handle bar
Gears By hand on left side of the handle bar
Clutch Lever operated on left side of the handle bar
Front brake Lever operated by right hand
Rear brake Pedal operated by right foot
ELECTRICALS
Generator System 12 Volt 96 Watt flywheel Magneto
Head light bulb 12 Volt 35/35 Watt
Front position bulb 12 Volt 5 Watt
Tail light bulb 12 Volt 5 Watt
Stop light bulb 12 Volt 10 Watt
Speedo light bulb 12 Volt - 1.2 Watt x 2
Turn signal light bulb 12 Volt - 21 Watt x 4
Tell tale lamp bulb 12 Volt - 1.2 Watt x 6
Horn 12 Volt DC Horn
Battery 12 Volt 9 Ah
Fuse 8 Amp.
MAXIMUM SPEED 55 mph in 4th Gear
6
INTRODUCTION
Stella is powered by a revolutionary, new generation energy saving and fuel efficient, 150cc, 5-Port engine
with Reed valve Induction, 'AOM' (Automatic oil mixture) and Catalytic converter. The 5 transfer port engine
includes two auxiliary ports on each side of one booster port, and an exhaust port for emission.
A reed valve controls the entry of air fuel mixture into the combustion chamber. This maximizes the fuel flow in
one direction, and results in optimum intake timing throughout operation range.
Advantage of 5 port engine with reed valve induction :
1. Improved recovery efficiency, resulting in better performance at any rpm.
2. Short circuit losses are minimized.
3. Reduced Carbon Monoxide & Hydrocarbon emission.
4. Improved pickup.
Reed valve :
Reed valve assy. is a long life component and does not require regular service. In case of a problem, check to
see that the gasket between reed valve and the air cleaner box is intact, as well as the gasket between
crankcase and reed valve. Under no circumstances should the reed valve or its stopper plate screw be
disturbed. In order to separate the crankcase halves, or to replace the crankcase, the Reed Valve has to be
removed and reinstalled.
Catalytic converter :
The catalytic converter is an emission control device converts toxic gases (Carbon Monoxide, Hydrocarbons
and oxides of Nitrogen) into eco-friendly gases (Carbon dioxide, water vapour and Nitrogen) which reduces
the air pollution from the exhaust gases. The catalytic converter has been installed inside the silencer assy.
To make Catalytic converter more effective for longer period:
1. Fill only unleaded petrol in the fuel tank.
2. Use only quality motorcycle formula two stroke oils.
3. Use only genuine and recommended spare parts.
To get best out of your vehicle fitted with Catalytic converter.
1. Keep the engine properly tuned.
2. Do not abruptly switch off the engine when the transmission is engaged, or vehicle is in motion.
3. Do not drive the vehicle with choke knob pulled.
4. Do not overload / over throttle the vehicle.
5. Never drive the vehicle down hill with ignition 'OFF'.
6. Do not idle the engine for a prolonged period.
7. Do not try to push start the vehicle.
8. Avoid misfiring the engine.
9. Ensure the "CO" level is within specified norms.
Precautions :
Since the silencer fitted with Catalytic converter can be extremely hot during running of vehicle, do
not touch the silencer to avoid serious burns.
7
SAFETY FIRST!
Scooter mechanics are professionally trained to follow the safe working

procedures. A moment’s lack of attention or failure to observe certain
elementry precautions can result in an accident.
WARNING
Fire : Remember that the petrol is highly in-flammable. Never smoke, or have
any kind of naked flame in the workshop. Proper care has to be taken for
electrical short circuiting as this can ignite petrol vapour.
Always disconnect the battery earth terminal before working on fuel and
electrical system. Never risk spilling petrol on a hot engine or exhaust.
It is recommended that a suitable fire extinguisher for fuel and electrical fires is
kept handy in the workshop. Never try to extinguish a fuel or electrical fire with
water.
WARNING
Fumes : Certain fumes are highly toxic and can quickly cause
unconsciousness and even death if inhaled.
Never run the engine of a vehicle in a closed space as exhaust fumes contain
carbon monoxide which is extremely poisonous. If you need to run the
engine, always run the same in open air or at least the rear portion of the
vehicle should be outside the work place.It is better allow an exit for exhaust
smoke through a pipe and have air ventilation in the workshop.
WARNING
Battery : Take care while topping up the distilled water in the battery as the
electrolyte is very corrosive.
The electrolyte should not come in the contact with eyes or skin.
8
ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS
DESCRIPTION
PAGE NO.
WIRING DIAGRAMS 11
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM 12
Principle of operation 13
Electronic ignition units test 14

CDI - [Capacitor Discharge Ignition] 14
H.T. coil 14
Charging coil 15
Pick up coil 15
Ignition timing 16
ELECTRONIC LIGHTING SYSTEM 17
Testing of fly-wheel magneto (A.C.Section) 17

Testing of fly-wheel magneto (D.C.Section) 17
Testing of Voltage regulator (A.C.Section) 18
Flasher unit and buzzer 19
TESTING OF ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONIC PARTS 20

Horn, Fuel gauge, Instrument panels,
SELF STARTER SYSTEM 21

Battery 22
PRD (Preventive restarting device) 25
Cut-out relay 25
Starter motor 26
LIGHT SWITCHES 28
(Main switch, Blinker switch, Engine kill switch and brake switch)
9
10
(WITH NEUTRAL & STOP LIGHT)
NEUTRAL SWITCH
LIGHT GREEN-RED
ENGINE KILL SWITCH

STOP
N
11
ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM
An Electronic ignition device (CDI unit) feeds the B. Mechanical nature : No maintenance is required
current to a high voltage transformer (H T Coil) to because of absence of moving parts exposed to
generate the spark and is controlled by a key operated wear & tear such as contact breaker point, cam unit
switch. etc.
Advantages : When compared with a traditional
/conventional ignition system both with magneto and It facilitates :
with battery, the electronic ignition with 'discharge of 1. Unalterable ignition timing.
condenser' is advantageous on electrical and 2. Insensitive to the atmospheric agents.
mechanical nature. The principal advantages are as 3. Regular engine running even at higher speeds.
follows: 4. Regular ignition even after long period of non use
A. Electrical nature : The particular advantage of a of vehicle.
H.T. discharge with electronic ignition viz-a-viz to
conventional ignition is the 'Generation of A HIGH
TENSION PEAK IN A VERY SHORT TIME WITH A
Longer length of spark WHICH ENSURES better
ignition.'
Itfacilitates :
1. Regular running of the engine.
2. Easier start for a cold engine.
3. Better life of spark plug because of lesser
electrode wear.
4. Lesser possibility of bridge formation in between
the main and ground electrode of spark plug.
Fig. 4
(Components of Ignition system)
12
Principle of operation :
The fig.5 shows main components of magneto (d) The SCR thus conducts and allows the capacitor
(Charging coil & Pickup coil), CDI & HT coil. (a) A 6 to discharge, through primary winding of HT coil.
pole inductor rotor generates a voltage in charging
coil which is fed to capacitor 'C' through diode 'D1' (e) HT coil secondary winding transforms the
voltage to high tension and delivers to spark
(b) The diode D1 rectifies the AC current to DC and plug.
charges the capacitor.
(f) A safety diode 'D2' is provided across the out put
(c) The pickup coil gives a signal at prefixed to safeguard the SCR from damage by earthing
periodical instant (due to set ignition timing) and the surge voltage through diode 'D2'.
provides control signal at the gate of Silicon
Controlled Rectfier (SCR).
Fig.5 - Schematic Diagram
13
ELECTRONIC IGNITION UNITS TEST
C.D.I. (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) :

It consists of two diodes, capacitor and SCR. The
current from charging coil charges the capacitor
and discharges to the primary winding of High
Tension coil through SCR on receiving the signal
from pick up.
Fig. 6
Test : For testing defective CDI, connect the same
in place of a C.D.I. working on a running scooter. If
the scooter starts easily, the unit is good. If it does
not start, the unit is defective and needs to be
replaced.
High Tension coil :

This is a step up transformer having primary and
secondary windings on a laminated core. Primary
winding receives a voltage and steps up on
secondary winding upto 25 - 32 KV. Fig. 7
Test : For testing defective H.T. coil, connect the

same in place of a H.T.coil already working on a
running scooter. If the scooter starts, the unit is
good. If it does not start, the unit is defective.
Check resistance at various points :

Disconnect the wires from the ignition coil and
measure the primary coil resistance as shown in fig.8
Primary coil resistance : 0.4 to 0.5 W

Fig. 8
Disconnect the H.T. lead from the spark plug.
Measure the secondary coil resistance as shown in
fig. 9.
Secondary coil resistance : 3.30 to 3.5 K W
Suppressor cap resistance : 5K + 1.25 K W
IMPORTANT
This is a sealed unit hence no repairs can be carried
Fig. 9
out and the unit has to be replaced if it is not
functioning.
14
Charging coil :
It is a coil wounded on a laminated core and

generates a voltage of 200V–300 V A.C. for
charging of condenser inside the CDI. The
serviceability of charging coil can be checked by:
(i) Checking the ohmic value across Green

and White wire which should be : 390 ± 20 W.
(Fig. 10)
(ii) Connecting a Neon bulb of 220 V (in series with

resistance) across Green and White wires. Kick
the scooter to rotate magneto, the neon bulb
should glow simultaneously.
CHARGING COIL TESTING
Fig. 10
Pick up coil :
It generates a signal impulse which is directed at

the gate of SCR (Silicon Controlled Rectifier)
and allows the charged capacitor to discharge
through SCR when signal is received. The
serviceability of pickup coil can be checked by :
1. Checking the ohmic value across the Red and

White wires. It should be : 110 ± 15 W.
2. Connecting L.E.D. of 1.5 volt across Red and

White wires, kick over the scooter, to rotate
magneto. The L.E.D. should flash
simultaneously.
PICK UP COIL TESTING
Fig. 11
15
IGNITION TIMING
Checking :
(a) Take out the right side cowl.
(b) Remove the H.T. lead from spark plug and
connect it to one cable of the stroboscope
(Timing light gun ).
(c) Connect second cable of stroboscope to the
spark plug.
(d) Start the scooter and focus the light of
Fig.12 - Checking by Stroboscope
stroboscope on the timing mark of fan cover
(fig. 12).
(e) Accelerate the RPM to approx. 3500 to 4000
and ensure that the pin 'P' mark on the rotor fan
coincides with the 'IT' mark on the flywheel
P
cover (fig. 13).
(f) If the marks do not coincide, correct by adjusting
the stator plate assy.
Fig.13 - Coinciding the marks P & IT
Setting :
(a) In the electronic ignition, no mechanical parts
are exposed to wear, so the timing remains at all
times practically unaltered.
(b) If the stator plate is removed for possible
replacement then while re-assembling, it is
important that the mark on the back plate is in
line with the corresponding mark on the crank
case (fig. 14).
Fig.14 - Coinciding of Stator Plate &

Crank Case marks
16
ELECTRONIC LIGHTING SYSTEM
Testing of fly wheel magneto :
MAGNETO
A.C. Section : (lighting coils)
The output voltage from magneto (lighting coils) is
tested as under:
Connect the non inductive resistance of 1.92 W -
300W and a RMS voltmeter as per circuit diagrams
(fig. 15).
The regulator is disconnected (contacts 'A' 'OFF'
and 'B' 'ON' ) the voltage across the1.92 W - 300W
non inductive resistance should measure as under :
Volts R.P.M.
+ 1.5
- 0.0 1500 R= 1.92 W - 300W
REGULATOR
+ 0.5
13.6 - 0.0 3000 Fig. 15
+ 1.0
– 0.5 5000
Testing of flywheel magneto(D.C. Section):

Measurement of charging current:
Connect D.C. voltmeter 'V' and D.C. Amp. meter 'A'
as shown in fig.16. Start the engine with charged
battery at constant voltage between 13 - 13.5 V.
The current generated by a magneto should be:
At 2000 r.p.m. 1-1.2 Amp.

At 5000 r.p.m. 2.0 - 2.2 Amp.*
(* Depending on the condition of the battery)
Measurement of regulated Voltage:

Connect D.C. voltmeter 'V' and D.C. Amp.meter
'A' as shown in fig.16 with a fully charged battery. At
no load the voltage should be 14-14.3 V at 5000
r.p.m.
Note : Fig. 16
The specification of voltmeter and Amp. meter are :

D.C. Amp. meter (min. full scale deflection
5 Amp.)
D.C. Voltmeter (min.full scale deflection 20 Volt
class 1)
17
Testing of voltage regulator (A.C. section):
MAGNETO
Check the regulator by connecting the same in a
scooter whose electrical system is performing
satisfactorily.
Following equipments are required for the test:

1. Voltmeter for measuring A.C.voltages at effective
value (R.M.S.) with 25-30 volts.
2. 1.92 W - 300 W approx. non inductive resistance.
3. Tachometer.
Testing procedure:
REGULATOR
(a) Remove regulator by replacing it with the one to
be tested.
Do not connect the terminal which joins GREY
Fig. 17
wire to avoid burning of bulbs if regulator is
defective.
(b) Connect one end of the non inductive
resistance 'R' (Ref. point 2 above) to earth,and
the other end to regulator terminal where GREY
wire has been disconnected.
(c) Connect voltmeter 'A' across the resistance and
let the engine run at a minimum 5000 r.p.m. If
voltage reading is between 12.5 to 15 volt, the
regulator is in perfect condition.
Test results :
1. Low voltage, than the specified range, indicates

that the regulator is defective (internal short
circuit)
2. High voltage, than the Higher voltage range

indicates that the regulator does not stabilize
voltage. This is the cause of burning out of
bulbs.
In both cases the defective regulator has to be

replaced with a new regulator.
18
Flasher unit (Thermal cut out):
This is an electronic flasher, which provides
intermittent AC voltage to Turn signal lamp switch
approx. 80 ± 20 times/min.and provides signal to the
front and rear TSL bulbs. This is a sealed unit hence
it can’t be serviced. Replace in case of failure. To
check the unit, connect 12 V DC supply as shown
in fig.19 bulb should flash when the circuit is
switched on.
Buzzer:
Fig. 18
This is connected to the circuit of the indicator and
the beeping sound indicates that the turn signal light
switch is in ‘ON’ position.
To check the buzzer, connect it directly to 12 V DC
supply. It should produce a clear audible sound
(fig. 19).
Fig. 19
19
ELECTRICAL UNITS TEST:
Horn (On Battery) :
This unit functions on 12volt DC supply from battery
through horn switch to horn.
Check : Connect the input of 12 volt DC supply to
horn. The horn should blow at its normal level of
sound. In case of failure replace with a new horn.
Fuel Gauge
(a) The fuel gauge comprises of two separate units:
(1) Fuel Gauge unit is located in the speedometer.
(2) Float Unit is located under seat and inside the
fuel tank.
(b) The gauge unit has two windings 'A' & 'B'
placed at 90° from each other and are
connected across the 12 volt rectified supply.
One end of windings 'A' is connected to earth;
and the other with winding 'B' in series which
leads upto Resistance 'R' of the float unit.The
reading on gauge unit scale depends on the
current flowing through coil 'B' or the resistance
in circuit.The Resistance 'R' varies and depends
on the quantity of fuel in the tank which is
controlled by float unit.
Testing :
Fig.20
Gauge unit - Fuel Gauge - Circuit Diagram
(a) Connect the unit across the 12 volt A.C.
supply (grey and black wire). (b) The gauge
shows 'E' ( Empty ).
(c) Connect the third wire ( white wire ) to earth
(black wire).
(d) If the unit shows 'F' ( Full ), it is in order.
Float unit:
(a) Remove the unit from the fuel tank and move the
float up and down slowly.
(b) The fuel gauge needle should move freely. (c) If
not, remove the white wire from float unit and
connect it to earth.
(d) The fuel gauge should show full. This confirms
that the float unit is not in order hence needs
replacement with a new one.
(e) Preferably the resistance of float unit should be
measured with an multimeter which should be
Fig.21
110 ± 10 W.
Gauge Unit - Circuit Diagram
20
INSTRUMENT PANEL
The instrument panel contains the followings:
1. Head Light High Beam Indicator
2. LH Turn Signal 'ON' Indicator
3. Neutral Indicator
4. Speed Indicator Needle
5. Odometer
6. Stop light indicator N STOP
7. RH Turn Signal 'ON' Indicator

8. Head Light Low Beam Indicator
9. Fuel gauge
SELF STARTER (ELECTRIC START) SYSTEM

Main components in circuit:
Fig.22
1. Battery 12V 9Ah
2. Fuse 8 Amp.
3. Regulator cum charger
4. P.R.D.
5. Declutch switch
6. Push switch
7. Ignition switch (AC/DC type)
8. Cut-out relay
9. Starter motor
Fig.23
Circuit Diagram - Self Starter
21
Battery
Storage:
Batteries are supplied dry charged and should
preferably be put to use within 12 months. It should
be stored in a cool and dry place, in an uniform
ambient temperature.
Inspection :
(a) Inspect the battery for any crack or damages
before filling-in the electrolyte.
(b) Wash and clean with tap water.
(c) Remove adhesive tape, sealed tube from vent Fig. 24
hole and fix bleeder tube of approximate 9" length Battery
with the vent hole.
Preparation of electrolyte :
(a) Take concentrated Sulphuric acid (laboratory
reagent - 1.800 specific gravity) and one litre
distilled water for preparing electrolyte.
(b) Add concentrated Sulphuric acid in distilled
water and stir well, till the specific gravity
reaches to 1.230 for Exide & 1.270 for Amco
battery. (c) Allow the electrolyte to cool to room
temperature (i.e.27°C). Again check.
(d) To correct specific gravity do as follows:
- Add distilled water, if the specific gravity is found
more than 1.230.
- Add sulphuric acid, if the specific gravity is found
less than 1.230
Caution :
Never add distilled water to concentrated
Sulphuric acid. This can result in an
explosion. Use apron and rubber hand gloves
all times.
Fig. 25
Filling of electrolyte:
Checking by Hydrometer
(a) Remove the vent plug.
(b) Fill-up the battery with the electrolyte of
recommended specific gravity upto (f) Apply petroleum jelly on the terminals/cable
maximum/upper level. clamps to avoid corrosion.
(c) Allow the battery to rest for approximate one
hour for electrolyte to penetrate into the plates
and separators.
(d) Top up each cell to maximum/upper level with
electrolyte in case there is a drop in level due to
soaking.
(e) Wash the top of the battery with tap water after
the vent plugs are tightened in their position.
22
Initial Charging:
This operation should be done with the battery on
(a) Remove the vent plugs.
charge to allow for proper mixing. Re-fit vent plugs,
(b) Connect battery in parallel to charger, i.e., the
wash the top of battery with tap water and apply
+ve terminal of charger connected to the +ve
petroleum jelly on the terminals/cables clamps
terminal of battery and -ve terminal of charger
before installing the battery on the scooter.
connected to -ve terminal of battery.
(c) For more than one battery to be charged,
Caution:
batteries should be connected in series.
(d) Select proper voltage and current (0.9 A). (e) When more than one battery is to be charged, the
Continue charging at this recommended rate for batteries must be connected to each other in
10-15 hours till the cells are gassing freely and series, in order to ensure that same charging
the voltage remains same for 3 hourly readings current can flow through each battery. While the
at the top of-charge-voltage, i.e., 15.9 to 16.9 charging is in process, if the temperature of
volt. electrolyte exceeds 50° C, stop charging to allow
(f) On completion of charging, check the final the battery to cool. Always keep the charger 'OFF'
specific gravity and level of electrolyte in each before connecting or removing the charger lead.
cell. Never use a charger without reading instructions.
(g) Adjust level of specific gravity to the Batteries expel explosive gases, keep naked flame
recommended specified gravity by adjusting the away.
electrolyte with:
- Distilled water in case the specific gravity is
higher.
- Dilute sulphuric acid of 1.400 specific gravity in
case the specific gravity is lower.
Removal of battery :
(a) Turn the ignition key to “OFF” position.
(b) Remove the left hand cowl.
(c) Remove the screw securing earth cable (Black)
connected to the negative of the battery terminal
by using the correct screw driver.
(d) Remove the Red cable from the positive terminal
of the battery.
(e) Remove the battery and bleeder tube.
(f) Detach the fastener belt and take out the battery.
Fig. 26
Precaution: Battery
Keep the battery and bleeder tube away from the
scooter to avoid any damage to the painted
surface due to leakage or slipage of electrolyte.
23
Installation of battery :
(a) Clean the battery box. (b) Clean the battery
thoroughly from outside. (c) Put the battery on the
battery box. (d) Connect the fastener belt first to the
lower hook. (e) Hold the battery firmly with one hand.
(f) Stretch the belt and fasten it to the upper hook
(Fig.27). (g) Fix the battery bleeder tube and ensure
it is routed properly through its clamp. (h) Connect
(+ve) terminal first, then the (-ve) terminal. (i) Make
sure the battery cable does not touch any metallic
surface during fitment. (j) Apply petroleum jelly
around the terminals to prevent corrosion.
Caution: Fig. 27
Installation of Battery
Always ensure that the bleeder tube is not
clogged, crimped or bent. The tube should be of Cell Dead : If on load the battery voltage is found
proper length i.e. 9". Replace the bleeder tube in less than 9.5 volt and one or more cell show specific
case it is clogged or not of correct length. gravity less than 1.230.
Cell boiling : Battery voltage on no load may be in
Storage of battery while not in use. between 12 - 9.5 volt. On load it will be around 4
(a) Keep the battery fully charged. (b) Maintain the volts and one or more cell start gasing (similar to
electrolyte level at maximum/ “upper level”. (c) Take boiling action).
battery out of the vehicle and store in a cool dry Open circuit : During charging battery does not
place and at constant temperature. (d) Keep the pick-up the charge.
battery away from rain, dew, high moisture and direct In any of the above case, replace the battery.
sun light. The battery should be charged once in a
month, when the vehicle is not in use. (e) For initial Caution:
charging the battery must be charged atleast for 10-
15 hours. During inspection, if the battery is found defective,
before placing a new battery, checking of the
Testing Procedure charger circuit of scooter is a must.
(a) Remove the battery as explained above.
(b)Connect the battery on load tester ensuring Red
lead of tester to (+ve) and black lead to (-ve)
terminal of battery.(c) Check the terminal voltage of
battery. (d) It should be 12 - 14.5 volts. (e) Press the
push button on the tester and watch the voltmeter
reading on load. (f) If the battery voltage does not
drop below 9 volts, this indicates that the battery can
take the load of self starter motor.(g) Check the
specific gravity of electrolyte in each cell. (h) The
specific gravity of each cell should not be less than
1.230. (i) Put the battery on charge, if required and
carry out load test. (j) Diagnose the nature of failure
Fig. 28
as under:
Checking of Battery
24
P.R.D. (Preventive Restarting Device) :
This is an electronic cut off switch, which connects

the circuit of cut-out relay while starting and cuts off
after starting the engine. Thus engine can’t be
cranked in the running condition. It guards the teeth
of starter motor and flywheel (Carona gear) from
damage.
Fig. 29
PRD
The P.R.D. relay can be checked as follows:
(a) Connect the P.R.D., bulb (12V-10W), battery
(12V), push switch, ON/OFF switch and 12 volt
A.C. supply as shown in fig.30
(b) Switch 'OFF' the ON/OFF switch and press the
push switch. The bulb should glow.
(c) Switch 'ON' the ON/OFF switch and again press
the push switch. The bulb should not glow.
Cut-out relay : Fig. 30

(a) Connect the cut-out relay as shown in fig.32 and Circuit Diagram -PRD Relay
press the button.
(b) Relay should operate with click noise and light
should glow.
(c) If no noise is observed the relay is open
circuited.
(d) If it fails to crank starter even after clicking, the
contacts are dirty/pitted. Clean with fine emery
paper and refit.
Fig. 32
Fig. 31 Circuit Diagram - Cut Out Relay
25
STARTER MOTOR
Main features:
Rated voltage 12V
Rated output 0.35 KW
Direction of Rotation Left hand (Anti clock
wise)
Type of motor DC series motor
Meshing By pinion and crown
gear on fly wheel
No load current 30 Amp. Fig. 33
On load current 60 Amp.
Jammed starter 200 Amp.
Removal & re-fitting of starter motor :
(a) Remove the RH cowl and rear wheel.
(b) Remove the rear shock absorber bottom

mounting bolt and take the shock absorber away
from crank case shocker mounting.
(c) Remove fan cover by un-screwing the five screws

Fig. 34
(Fig.34).
(d) Pull back the insulating cap and remove the nut
and washer from the starter motor lead terminal.
(e) Disconnect the blue lead from the terminal.

Remove the three nuts 'A' holding the motor 'C'
and take out washers. (Fig.35).
(g) Un-screw the bolt 'B' from the lower bracket

holding the motor.
(h) Remove the motor from the engine.
(i) Follow the reverse procedure for re-fitting. Fig. 35
26
STARTER MOTOR - EXPLODED VIEW
Fig. 36
27
LIGHT SWITCHES
Main Switch :
(a) Disconnect the plug-sockets connection from
wiring harness and head lamp bulb holder.
(b) Check for continuity test with multimeter for each
operation.
(c) If the continuity shows perfect then the switch is
good.
(d) In case continuity does not show then the fault
may be attended by giving proper connections.
(e) If still the continuity does not show then
complete switch is to be replaced.
Fig. 37
Blinker Switch :
(a) The blinker switch is located on the right hand
side of handle bar.
(b) By disconnecting the connection of switch
contacts; the switch circuit can be checked for its
continuity by multimeter.
Note:
Auto start push button switch is extra fitted at the

Fig. 38
bottom side of Blinker switch.
Engine Kill Switch :

The kill switch is located on the right hand side of
handle bar.
Check : It can be checked for continuity by
connecting with multimeter and pressing the push
button.
Brake light switch:
(a) Rear brake light switch is fitted on the support
bracket of rear brake pedal.
(b) One switch also fitted on front brake cable; which
functions on operating the front brake lever.
Fig. 39
28
AIR - FUEL SYSTEM
AIR - FUEL - FLOW DIAGRAM 30
CARBURETTOR 31
Specification 31
Removal 32
Dismantling, overhauling and Re-assembly 33
Installation on scooter 36
Carburettor tuning 36
Reed valve 37
AIR CLEANER, AIR FILTER & FUEL FILTER 38
'AOM' (AUTOMATIC OIL MIXER) DEVICE 39
Dismantling overhauling & Re-assembly 41
Removal and fitment of oil tank 44
29
AIR-FUEL SYSTEM
Air-fuel flow diagram:
(a) Petrol is supplied from the fuel tank to The fuel is atomised and mixed with clean air in the
carburettor inlet by gravity feed, controlled by a carburettor in proportionate quantities and supplied to
fuel cock. the engine which is connected directly to crank case.
The fuel gases are controlled with rotary distribution by
(b) A fuel filter is provided in between for trapping crank web in the engine. The supply through 5 transfer
any sediments in the fuel before atomisation of ports to the combustion chamber is made through reed
fuel in carburettor. valve.
(c) Air cleaner directly connected on carburettor air

inlet side, supplies clean air through cleaning
process, by nylon netted cleaner, fitted in the air
cleaner.
Fig.40
Air Fuel System
30
CARBURETTOR
Specifications:
Make Spaco
Model/Type 20/20D, Down draft
Slow running jet 40/130
Starter jet 60
Air metering jet 140
Defuser E-3
Main Jet 92
Slide 7.5 x 7.5 SCOOP
Mix.screw setting Spaco ½ to 1½
Fig.41 - Circuit Diagram of Carburettor
1. Float needle 7. Mixture adjusting screw

2. Float 8. Idling screw
3. Air metering jet 9. Throttle slide
4. Defuser 10. Starter jet
5. Main jet 11. Choke device
6. Slow running jet
31
Carburettor :
The carburettor is the heart of the scooter. It's
function is to provide the correct air fuel mixure, in an
atomised state to the engine. It also controls the
speed of the engine.
Removal of carburettor:
(a) Remove right hand side cowl and take out the air
cleaner box cover by un-screwing two screws.
(b) Remove air cleaner by unscrewing two
screws.
(c) Un-hook choke cable and throttle cable from Fig. 42-Step 1
carburettor.
(d) Turn fuel cock to ‘OFF’ position.
(e) Take out clip and pull out fuel pipe from banjo
pipe.
(f) Slacken and remove two sleaved nut by box
spanner and take out the carburettor assembly
and packing.
Fig. 43-Step 2
Fig. 44-Step 3 Fig. 45-Step 4
32
Dismantling, overhauling, re-assembly :
(a) Remove inlet nylon filter cover by a
suitable open end spanner or screw
driver and take out the filter and clean it.
(b) If there is any evidence of dust or water
contamination, clean the fuel tank.
(c) Slacken two screws retaining float cup
cover and remove it.
(d) Please ensure that the gasket is not
damaged.
(e) Push the float pivot pin by a small screw Fig. 46-Step 1
driver and take out the float and needle.
(f) Take out the throttle slide by unscrewing
two retaining screws on the side of
carburettor.
(g) Remove the choke unit by slackning the
retaining screw.
(h) Remove adjusting screw and slow
running adjusting screw alongwith
spring.
(i) Remove slow running jet, main jet
assembly and starter jet from the
housing with the help of screw driver. Fig. 47-Step 2
Fig. 48-Step 3 Fig. 49-Step 4
Fig .50-Step 5 Fig. 51-Step 6
33
(j) Separate main jet, defuser (Automiser) and air
gauge by pulling as these are press fitted to each
other.
Care to be taken :
After dismantling all parts of carburettor place them in
two different cleaning trays.
Slow Running Jet - Fig.52 - Main Jet
(1) Place all the jets, Float needle valve, float pin,
float, slide, idling speed screw and mixture screw
with spring in tray filled with 100ml of kerosene.
(2) Place all castings and other parts into tray filled
with 200 ml. kerosene. Discard all gaskets.
Cleaning :
Clean each part thoroughly with the brush in each tray.
Fig. 53-Mixture Screw
(a) Insert one hair of the paint brush and insert into all
the holes of the main jet, slow running jet and
starting jet.
(b) Blow compressed air into all the holes of castings
and all jets so as to remove any remaining dust
particles from it.
(c) Air filter and fuel filters should be washed
thoroughly in kerosene and blow dry.
(d) Inspect the float for any puncture and jets for any
deformation. Fig. 54-Main Jet Assembly
(e) Clean all the jets and its parts in clean petrol and
blow out by compressed air.
(f) Check the needle for any worn out mark on it's
conical seat. If found, replace with new needle.
Fig. 55-Air Jet
34
Checks :
Check throttle slide: It should move freely and
should not have any sign of wear, which may lead to
improper idling adjustment. If the problem cannot be
rectified by replacing the throttle slide, then change
the carburettor body/ complete carburettor assembly.
Check choke piston : for any wear and leakage of

gasket. Replace, if necessary.
Check jets : Inspect the holes of jets with a

magnifying glass. If any hole is found enlarged,
Fig. 56-Check throttle slide
replace the jets as per table given on page no. 31.
Float needle valve :

(a) Inspect the conical rubber tip of the valve with a
magnifying glass.
(b) If the surface of conical part is found worn out and
is not perfect, then replace the valve.
Float : Hold the float exposed to SUN light or any

brighter light of powerful bulb. If petrol is found inside
the float, replace it.
Fig. 57-Check choke piston

Float pin :
(a) Check for any bend, wear, loosness and over
tightness.
(b) Insert the pin in float hole and check for free
movement.
(c) If any above problem is there, replace both the
float and pin.
Re-assembly of carburettor : Follow the reverse

procedure of dismantling.
Caution :
Fig. 58
(1) Never over tighten the jets as it will lead to
deformation of the orifice. (2) Never over tighten float
cup cover screw and benjo bolt. This may damage
the threads of carburettor body and may require
replacement. (3) Always use jets, slide and air
diffuser as per specifications. (4) Never clean the jets
by steel wire, which may enlarge its size and will
affect the fuel consumption of scooter.
35
Installation on Scooter :
(a) Place a new base gasket on the mounting face

of engine.
(b) Open the mixture screw anticlockwise to 1½
turn for both and make of carburettors.
(c) Place the carburettor on the gasket inside the
housing and gently tighten the bolts. Fig. 59
(d) Finally torque down the bolts to specified torque
values (1.6 - 2 kgm) Bolts are tightened
alternatively and progressively.
Carburettor tuning:
(a) Start the engine and warm up for 5 minutes.

(b) Close the mixture screw until lightly seated.
(c) Now open mixture screw by 1 turn with a screw
driver.
(d) Start the engine and keep idle screw in such a
position that engine should not stop.
(e) Observe the change in r.p.m. by turning mixture
screw by 1/4 turn either clockwise or anticlowise.
(f) Engine r.p.m. gets increased at one stage. Fig. 60
(g) Hold the mixture screw and reduce the engine
r.p.m. between 1000-1300 by idling screw
adjustment.
(h) Observe any misfiring of a lean mixture at higher
r.p.m. by accelerating engine to full throttle and
gradually deaccelerating throttle.
(i) If problem is noticed then open mixture screw
slowly.
Fig. 61
36
Reed valve :
Reed valve assy. is a long life component and does
not require regular service. In case of overhauling,
ensure that the gasket between reed valve and the
air cleaner box is intact, as well as the gasket
between crankcase and reed valve. Under no
circumstances should the reed valve or its
stopper plate screw be disturbed. In order to
separate the crankcase halves, or to replace the
crankcase, the Reed Valve has to be removed and Fig. 62
reinstalled.
Removal :
1. Remove the air cleaner cover, air cleaner,

carburettor and air cleaner box from the
engine.
2. Remove the gasket between reed valve and

the air cleaner box. Fig. 63
3. Remove the Reed Valve by unscrewing two
screws and curved washers which secure
the reed valve to the crankcase (fig. 63).
4. Remove the gasket between crankcase and

the reed valve
Installation :
1. Clean the area on the crankcase where the

Fig. 64
Reed Valve will sit.
2. Apply a thin layer of RTV Silicon sealent

on both sides of a new gasket, put it on the
crankcase face, and place the Reed Valve
in its position. Caution :
3. Replace and tighten the two screws and 1. Parts should be clean and free from dust,
curved washers to secure the Reed valve. grease or oil before application of sealent.
4. Again apply a thin layer of sealent to a 2. Ensure that only thin layer of sealent to be
new gasket, and place it in its position on used and it should not spill out in the
the surface of Reed valve. cavity of reed valve.
3. Under no circumstances any resetting or
5. Replace the air cleaner box, carburettor, air adjustment of any sort is to be carried out on
cleaner and air cleaner cover. reed valve stopper plate or its two no, screws
6. Start the vehicle and check the performance. which are locked with application of 'Loctite'.
37
Air cleaner:
(a) Take out air cleaner 'A' by unscrewing two A
screws 'B'. (fig.65).
(b) Blow dry with compressed air.
(c) Clean the air filter throughly with Kerosene in a B
clean tray.
Air filter :
Fig. 65
Air filter is fitted over air intake hole on the chassis
below the dual seat. Cleaning is required during
each periodical service. Cleaning of airfilter is
frequently required if the scooter riding is done in
dusty areas.
Procedure for cleaning:
l Lift the seat and take out the air filter by
unscrewing it from the support plate.
l Rinse the filter in kerosene or petrol only till it is
fully cleaned.
l Blow dry the filter with low air pressure.
l Refit the filter ensuring proper positioning of its
gasket. Fig. 66 Fig. 67
38
'AOM'' (AUTOMATIC OIL MIXER) DEVICE
Description:
Stella scooters are fitted with Automatic Oil Mixer Note:
device for lubrication of engine. A separate oil tank
No.2 for Two stroke oil has been provided in scooter Ensure that the oil inlet pipe 'T' from tank to 'AOM' is
fitted with ''AOM'' device and the existing fuel tank completely full. If air bubbles are present then take
No.1 is used only for filling pure petrol. The ''AOM'' out the pipe 'T' from 'AOM' side and bleed the air so
that the bubbles are completely eliminated.
device is fitted inside the air cleaner box and
Reconnect the pipe. (fig.70)
connected with throttle control for its operation.
The oil is supplied to the engine through its ventury
tube in exact quantity with correct ratio by a piston
pump ‘P’. Pump is controlled by gear transmission,
which is attached with crank shaft as shown in fig.69.
The carburettor receives petrol through a normal
gravity feed system.
The oil tank No.2 is fitted with a transparent cup No.3
for checking oil level, (fig.69), positioned near the fuel
cock lever.
When the oil level is low then top up Two stroke oil
immediately to avoid air bubbles and maintenance
work.
Fig. 68
Fig. 69
1. Petrol tank cap, 2. Oil tank cap, 3. Sight glass level of oil, 4. Fixed case of ''AOM'' device,
5. Oil inlet pipe, 6. Oil supply pipe, 7. Oil supply valve A. Suction period, B. Delivery period.
39
Advantages:
(a) The automatic oil mixer device is designed to

ensure the perfect lubrication of two stroke engine
at various speeds and load conditions. M
(b) With ''AOM'' device, the oil quantity varies with

respect to engine r.p.m. This reduces the carbon
deposits at spark plug, cylinder piston unit and
silencer neck. It will ultimately reduce the
expenditure on decarbonising of these items.
Fig. 70
(c) The chances of filling incorrect quantity, type and
substandard quality of oil are completely
eliminated by using an 'AOM' device.
(e) By each position of throttle twist grip, the sliding
block comes to specific positions of opening gap
Functions:(How the device works)
due to the piston run (suction period ‘A’ and
The complete '‘AOM'’ device system is shown in delivery period ‘B’). Therefore the quantity of
fig. 69 sucked oil changes according to the throttle
opening and engine r.p.m.
(a) Tank No.1 is filled with pure petrol, which is
directly connected to the carburettor by a
Note:
connecting fuel pipe and supplies petrol through
a normal gravity feed system. The oil pipe should remain without oil during the
dismantling, overhauling and reassembly of
(b) The oil tank No.2 is filled with 2-T motor oil and is ''AOM'' device. On completion of above process,
connected by a separate oil tube No.5 the pipe has to be filled progressively with oil, it is
advisable to fill up the fuel tank (No.1) with 3 Ltr. of
(c) The oil is sucked by a piston pump ‘P’. mixture of petrol and 2% Two stroke oil. After this,
next refuelling of fuel tank should be carried out
(d) Running of pump is guided by the radial position of with pure petrol only.
a sliding block, on the inclined plane of piston itself
and controlled by the throttle cable linked by a
lever.
40
DISMANTLING, OVERHAULING & RE-ASSEMBLY (d) Remove oil tube 'M' with nozzle from oil pump
cover. (see fig. 73)
Dismantling:
(a) In order to overhaul the ‘'AOM'’ device for its
proper functioning, dismantle the device from
engine.
(b) Close the fuel cock and burn out fuel (by running
engine) in pipeline 'A' and of carburettor.
Disconnect oil inlet pipe 'B' from carburettor
side.( fig.71)
Fig. 73
(f) Take out the metering cover assy. by

unscrewing the 3 screws.(fig.74)
Fig. 71
(c) Remove the air cleaner box cover, air cleaner

and carburettor assy. by disconnecting throttle
'A' and choke control 'B' cables and fuel pipe.
(fig.72)
Fig. 74
(g) Take out piston pump gear alongwith

connected parts (washer and spring) fig.75
Fig. 72
Fig. 75
41
(h) Remove clutch cover and take out clutch unit.
(i) Remove woodruff key from Crank shaft and take

out drive gear from crank shaft.
(j) Remove read valve & small drive shaft.
(k) Take out the metering device shaft by unlocking

the circlip lock.
(l) Tap the driver gear slowly. Now take out the
driven gear along with washers.
Fig. 76 : A.- Remove clutch unit

D.- Unlock the circlip and take out with washer
B.- Remove drive gear from crank shaft E.- Remove driven gear
C.- Take out metering device shaft F.- Take out plain washer
42
Overhauling:
Inspection:
(a) Clean and wash the dismantled parts
thoroughly and blow dry.
(b) Check all parts for any wear or damages.
(c) Replace with new parts, if required.
Re-assembly:
Re-assemble the 'AOM' device in reverse order of
dismantling.
Fig. 77 : A.- Place the plain washer D- Fit the metering device shaft
B.- Fit the driven gear E.- Fit the drive gear and woodruff key
C.- Place plain washer and lock with circlip F.- Assemble the clutch unit and cover
43
Removal and fitment of oil tank:
(a) LML Scooters are equipped with two separate Note:
tanks: No.1 for petrol and No.2 for oil.(fig.78).
While refitting the oil tank, ensure that the oil outlet
(b) Disconnect fuel level indicator cables from petrol pipe position is in the same direction that of oil
tank top.Remove packing for fuel cock rod from gauge cup.
frame. Unscrew mtg. bolts and remove them
alongwith spring washer
(c) The oil tank No.2 will come out alongwith petrol
tank No.1. It is fitted to the bottom end of tube
with ring nut. The oil level gauge is directly fitted
with the oil tank. (see fig.79)
(d) Remove the oil tank cap No.2.(see fig.80)
(e) Introduce T handle box spanner (17mm size)
through the tube in order to remove the nut
connecting the oil tank to the outlet pipe.
(f) Unlock ring 'B', and separate oil tank from petrol
tank.
Fig. 78-Location of petrol tank & oil tank caps
(g) For reassembly follow the reverse order of
dismantling.
Fig.79 Fig.80
Schematic diagram showing the positioning of Schematic diagram showing the correct position of oil
various components of Oil tank assembly. outlet pipe
44
CARE AND MAINTENANCE
SERVICE RULES 46
PERIODICAL MAINTENANCE 47
GEAR BOX OIL 48
SPARK PLUG 49
DE-COKE ENGINE 52
HEAD LIGHT SETTING 52
HORN TUNING 53
BATTERY 53
CONTROL CABLES ADJUSTMENT 54
BRAKE SERVICE (REAR AND FRONT) 55
FRONT AND REAR SUSPENSION 61
TYRE ROTATION 61
STEERING COLUMN 62
LUBRICATION 62
RECOMMENDED OILS, LUBRICANTS & LUBRICATING POINTS 63
45
SERVICE RULES :
1. Use only genuine spares and recommended lubricants at specified parts and points.
2. Use right / proper ( general and special ) tools at right place.
3. Use only Metric nuts and bolts (MKS system).
4. Usage of incorrect tools and hardwares may damage parts of scooter.
5. Install new gaskets, 'O' rings, oil seals, clips, split pins and so on, while reassembling.
6. Clean parts before measurement and get rid of oil, if any. Lubricate working parts lightly by oil while
assembling.
7. When engine and transmission components are dismantled and kept for a longer period, coat the mating
surface with a lubricant to prevent rusting and cover them, to avoid dust.
8. After reassembling, check all nuts & bolts for proper tightening by torque wrench, check free operation
and also movement of the moving components.
9. Control cables and wiring harnesses are to be routed properly. Always keep the cables away from sharp
edges and corners where they may get cut by coming between the moving parts.
10. Loose cables or wiring harness may be unsafe. Ensure proper clamping of each cable and harness in
their respective positions.
11. Protect the wires and harness with proper sleeve and insulation. Check and clean the surface of wire
before applying insulation tape.
12. Keep away wires and harness from exhaust tube and other hot spots.
13. Wiring harness routed through the handle bar and steering column chassis portion should not be pulled
tight. It should have sufficient slackness to avoid damages to wires/harness during steering movement.
46
PERIODIC MAINTENANCE
In order to optimize Stella's
Code of suggested action is :

C - Check L - Lubricate. I - Inspect, check and adjust.
T - Check and top up, if necessary. F - Drain & refill with fresh oil. D - Carry out.
S. No. ITEM 2500 5000

Miles Miles
1. Washing and cleaning D
2. Gear oil F
3. Tightening of all external nuts & bolts (also cylinder head) D D
4. Spark plug I
5. Air cleaner (clean & washing in fuel oil-mixture) D
6. Air filter (outer)* washing in kerosene or petrol only D
7. Carburettor tuning I
8. Carburettor cleaning D
9. De-coke of Engine and Silencer neck D
10. Ignition timing C
11. Functioning of electrical electronic systems C
12. Battery (T op up, check S p. gravity and bleeder tube) D D
13. Control cable adjustment I I
14. Brake service: Disc brake fluid**/ Brake shoes, Pads wear/ Brake system I I
15. Clutch C
16. Front and Rear suspension C
17. Tyre rot ation D
18 Lubricate:
Gear control assembly L L
Speedo drive gear L
Front wheel bearing L
Steering column bearing L
Caution :
and longer life of engine. Replace the filter af ter 6250 miles or earlier, if required.
** -
47
Washing and Cleaning :
(a) Frequent and thorough cleaning of scooter will
further enhance its appearance and extend its
life.
(b) The scooter should be cleaned at ambient
temperature i.e., not immediately after use or
when parked in hot sun.
(c) Use a low pressure water hose for cleaning the
vehicle.
(d) Wipe, clean and dry with soft cloth.
(e) Do not use detergents or powders which are
Fig. 81-Oil level Plug (1) & Drain Plug (2)
likely to leave scratches on the surface. They
may also cause fading of colour.
(f) Always use a normal car polish and rub with a
soft cloth.
Gear box oil
Checking oil level:
(a) Park the vehicle on a levelled surface.
(b) Remove the right hand side cowl.
(c) To check the oil level, unscrew plug(1) shown in
(fig.81). Oil should be at level with the bottomost
portion of the hole.
(d) Top up the oil to the specified level, if it is less.
(e) Screw back the plug. After replacing the
Fig. 82-Location of engine oil filling point
packing.
Change of gear box oil:

(a) Gear box oil should be changed after every
2500 miles run.
(b) Draining: Remove drain plug (2) as shown in
(fig.81) after warming up of the engine.
(c) Drain the oil completely.
(d) Replace the plug.
(e) Flushing: Fill 100 ml. fresh oil; start engine and
run for 5 minutes. Drain out the oil.
(f) Refilling: Fill the oil 20w - 40 multigrade Qty.
250 +0/ -5 ml. through filling hole (1) to the level
(see fig.83) Fig. 83-Filling of engine oil
(g) Wipe off any excess oil which may have been
spilled.
(h) Refit the cowl.
Note:
To avoid leakage of oil from gear box, all the
packings of bolt & filling holes must be replaced.
48
Engine compression pressure:
Check compression pressure of engine with a
compression pressure gauge.(fig.84)
Compression pressure : 140 + 20 P.S.I.
(a) Close the fuel cock and burn out complete fuel in
the line and carburettor. (b) Remove the spark plug.
(c) Fit the compression pressure gauge in the place
of spark plug. (d) Keep the throttle valve open and
kick the pedal 3-4 times successively. (e) See the
dial gauge for the built in pressure. It should be
equivalent to the recommended pressure. (f) If the Fig. 84-Checking the compression pressure
pressure is more than recommended, it means the
exhaust port or silencer are clogged with carbon.
Inspect and decarbonise. (g) If the pressure is less
1 3
than recomended, it means that there is a leakage
from cylinder piston or piston rings are worn out. (h)
Action to be taken accordingly. 4 2
Tightening of cylinder head: (a) Check all four

nuts for tightness. (b) If required, tighten the
nuts diagonally with a torque wrench up to the
specified torque value ranging from 1.3 to 1.8 kgm Fig. 85-Sequence for tightening cylinder head bolts
(fig. 85).
Spark plug:
(a) Remove the right hand side cowl.(b) Disconnect
the HT lead cable after removing rubber cap from
spark plug.(c) Wipe and clean the area around the
spark plug base and unscrew the spark plug. (d)
Clean out any excessive carbon deposits.(e) Visually
inspect the spark plug electrodes for any wear. (f)
The centre electrode should have square edges and
the side electrode should not be eroded. (g) Discard Fig. 86-Checking the spark plug gap
the spark plug if there is an apparent wear, & if the
insulator is cracked/chipped.(h) Check the spark
plug gap between the electrodes with the help of
feeler gauge. (i) This gap should be between 0.7 to
0.8 mm (fig.86).(j) Resetting of the gap shall be
done only by carefully bending the side electrode
(fig.87). (k) Ensure that the plug washer is in a good
condition. (l) Refit the spark plug alongwith
washer.(m) First few threads should be tightened
only with the hands in order to prevent cross
threading.
Fig. 87-Resetting the spark plug gap
49
Condition of spark plug :
The Condition of spark plug is an indicator of the
performance of the engine. Needful corrective action
can be taken as per the following:
1. Normal condition : If the insulation tip is greyish-
light brown, it indicates,(fig.88)
- correct running of engine.
- Plug is perfectly suited for optimum
Fig. 88-Spark plug in normal condition
engine performance.
2. Fouled with soot : Dull black, velvety carbon
deposits on plug face indicates, (fig.89)
- Fuel air mixture is too rich
- Spark plug gap is more
- Cold plug
- Air cleaner clogged
- Weak compression
- Weak spark Fig. 89-Spark plug fouled with soot
- Low speed
Corrective action : Check and correct the defect or
fit a plug of higher heat range as an interim step.
3. Fouled with oil : Shining black 'wet' carbon

deposits on spark plug indicates, (fig.90)
- Too much oil in the fuel mixture
Corrective action : Check and correct the defect or
fit a plug of higher heat range as an interim step. Fig. 90-Spark plug fouled with oil
4. Over heated : Metal particles on insulator tip,

eroded electrodes, insulator burnt white or with
pearly deposits of metallic enamel beads indicates,
(fig.91)
- Over heating or too lean
mixture.
- Loose spark plug or wrongly
Fig. 91-Over heated spark plug
screwed.
- The Plug is too hot.
Important:
Corrective action : Rectify the defects or fit a plug
Do not over tighten or cross thread the spark plug.
with a lower heat range as an interim step. This avoids damage to the threads of aluminium
(a) Tighten the plug 1/8 to 1/4 turn with box spanner cylinder head.
after seating it fully. Do not allow any foreign particles to enter the
engine through the spark plug hole, while the plug
(b) In case of new spark plug tighten the plug 1 turn
is being removed. Ensure the hole is coverd
with box spanner to compress the washer. properly when the plug is removed. Use only
(c) Tightening torque is 2.0 kgm. recommended spark plug to ensure perfect engine
performance.
50
Spark plug cleaning and testing by machine:
Cleaning of Spark Plug :

(a) Scrape the carbon deposits before sand blasting plug is “Poor” and spark plug needs to be replaced.
in order to protect the sand from contamination. (b)
Wash the insulator in petrol if it is oily and blow dry. If sparking does not occur at all, then this indicates a
(c) Ensure that the air pressure in the machine is cracked insulator inside the plug cell.
more than 5kg/cm². (d) Turn the protective shield
and press the spark plug into the hole of rubber Note:
adaptor. (e) Press the double action valve to the
The sparking surfaces of the plug electrode should
“abrassive blast” position and sand blast for 15 to 20
be cleaned with emery paper to form smooth, flat
Sec. (f) At the same time rotate the spark plug in a
and clean surfaces prior to testing.
complete circle for better cleaning.(g) Press the
double action valve to “air blast” position and blast
air for 10 to 15 sec. to remove any sand particles.(h)
Check the insulator of the plug for cleanliness.(i) If
still not found clean, repeat the cleaning cycle. Set a
min. of 0.7 mm electrode gap with the help of feeler
gauge.
Testing of Spark Plug :

(a) Screw the spark plug on the suitable adaptor in
the pressure pocket and tighten it.(b) Tighten the
blind plug with pressure bleed screw. (c) Clamp the
H.T. wire to spark plug and cover it with the guard.
(d) Set the indicator dial to align the arrow against
the required gap setting mark on the indicator dial.(e)
There are three ranges indicated on indicator dial, Fig. 92
Green - Good,Yellow - Fair, Red - Poor.(f) Open the Spark Plug Gap
air screw and set the pressure so that the needle of
pressure gauge is in the “Green Range” of the
indicator dial during the setting of pressure. (g) The
pressure bleed screw can be used to reduce the
pressure if required.
(h) After ensuring that the needle of pressure gauge

is on the Green range of the indicator dial, press the
operating button on the top of the service unit
housing and observe the spark in the mirror. (i) If no
spark is observed, the pressure is slowly reduced by
means of a pressure bleed screw and every time the
electrical test is carried out.(j) If the spark appears in
the “Green” range then the spark plug is “good”. If Fig. 93
the spark appears in the “Yellow” range then the Spark Plug Testing Machine
spark plug is “Fair” and can be used for some time if
the spark appears in the “Red” range then the spark
51
De-coke of engine :
(a) Remove the cylinder head by acting four nuts (to
1 3
be opened diagonally).
(b) Remove the silencer.
(c) Scrap the carbon from the piston crown, cylinder 4 2
head and exhaust port, gently with the help of

blunt scraper.
(d) Make sure that, there is on scoring mark on piston
as aluminium alloy is a soft metal. Fig. 94-Cylinder Head Nuts Removal
Note: then loosen the headlight setting screw located at
Open cylinder head for de-coke of head and piston

the bottom of handle bar's lower part and set it by
crown. swinging the headlight.
(e) After obtaining the correct position, tighten the
Head light setting : headlight adjusting screw.
(a) Place the unloaded vehicle on a levelled floor at a B = C x 0.9, C = Height from the ground to
distance of 10 metre from a twilight white screen headlight centre.
and ensure that the vehicle axis is perpendicular B = C x 0.95, when the setting of the headlamp is
to the screen. carried out with the vehicle at 5 meters from the
(b) Draw a horizontal line 'b-b' at a height of 'B' from screen.
the ground corresponding to 0.9xC (C= height
Note :
from the ground to headlight centre.)
The headlamp setting can be carried out also by the
(c) With the headlamp switched 'ON' the low beam
driver sitting on the scooter. In this case, of course,
position, the horizontal line of demarcation
the beam alignment should be altered wherever
between the dark zone and the lighted one should scooter is being driven by both driver and pillion
be on the horizontal line 'b-b'. rider.
(d) If the demarcation line between the dark zone and
the lighted one is not on the horizontal line 'b-b'
Fig. 95 Head Light Setting

52
Testing & tuning of horn
(a) Remove steering column cover. (b) Unscrew the
horn mounting screw and take it out. (c) Hold horn
bracket. (d) Start the scooter and check the intensity
of horn sound. (e) If it is found irregular,adjust the
screw by tightening or lossening the horn adjusting
screw which is located at backside of horn till a sharp
noise level is obtained. (f) By doing the above
exercise, if the horn is not found satisfactory replace
with a new one.(g) Mount the horn. Fit the steering
column cover.
Fig. 96-Testing & Tuning of horn

Battery :
Specification
Battery - 12V 9 AH
Specific gravity of electrolyte at 27° C.

Initial filling-in specific gravity - 1.230 (Exide)
(1.270 for Amco)
Final specific gravity (fully charged battery)
- 1.230 for Exide (1.270 for Amco)
Battery charger - Elak make (C1/48)
Battery tester - Elak make B C T - 7
Fig. 97-Battery
Hydrometer - Thimson - 108
Level of electrolyte:
(a) The level of electrolyte must always be in
between the upper and lower level marked on the
battery. (b) Normally, a constant level in the specified
range is maintained for about two months or
approximately 1250 miles. (fig. 98). (c) The level of
liquid should be checked once in a month. (d) In
case of a normal decrease (0.5cm), fill the distilled
water so as to reach the upper level indicated on the
battery.(e) In case of a marked level decrease by 1 Fig. 98-Hydrometer
cm or more, check the battery thoroughly and also
the specific gravity by using hydrometer.
Caution:
Battery should be removed, if the vehicle is to be

washed.
Use only 8 Amp fuse to prevent serious damage
to the battery. Ignition switch should be in 'OFF'
position while replacing fuse.
Fig. 99-Electrolyte level

53
Control cables adjustments:
Throttle adjustment:
(a) Loose the lock nut 'A'.
(b) Adjust the free play of 2 mm. at throttle twistgrip
by turning cable adjuster 'B' clockwise or
anticlockwise fitted on air cleaner box. (fig.100)
Clutch cable adjustment:
(a) Loosen the lock nut.
(b) Adjust the free play of 2 mm on Clutch control
lever by turning cable adjuster 'A' clockwise or
anticlockwise. Fig. 100-Throttle adjustment
(c) Then tighten the lock nut. (fig.101)

Brake adjustment (Front and Rear):
(a) Loosen the lock nut.
(b) Adjust cable free play to 5 mm. for rear brake
(fig.102) by turning cable adjuster 'A' clockwise
or anticlockwise.
Note:
Wheel should rotate freely when the brake pedal is
in resting position.
Gear control cable adjustment:

(a) The gears are controlled by two control cables.
(b) Loosen lock nuts of gear control assembly. (c)
Adjust the play by turning the cable adjusting
screw clockwise or anticlockwise.
(d) Both cables are to be adjusted till required Fig.101-Gear control cable
setting is obtained.
Note:
Check shifter play, if found, then change gear
control assembly.
Fig. 102-Lock nut A & Cable adjuster B
54
BRAKE SERVICE
Rear brake : (f) In case surface is found smooth then rub the
(a) Remove rear brake drum by unlocking the face with emery paper of 80/100 grade. (g) If
nut and cap. deep cuts are found on the surface, replace
(b) Check brake shoes/liners for wear, with new one.
hardeness or oily surface. (h) Remove brake shoe by taking out locking
(c) Clean the oily surface by washing in circlips.
kerosene and blow dry with compressed air. (i) Remove brake flange by opening 3 screws. (j)
(d) If the liners are worn out, replace with new Remove shaft for brake lever and seal rings from
one. crank case.
(e) Check brake drum at liners contact surface. (k) Replace new seal rings.
Wheel Cap - Fig.103 - Brake Drum
Fig. 104 Fig. 105
55
FRONT DISC BRAKE (HYDRAULIC)
Hydraulic brakes operate on the principle - that the
liquid is not compressible, so the force and motion
can be transmitted through a liquid media.
A. MASTER CYLINDER (WITH RESERVOIR) :
As the brake lever is pressed, the master cylinder AIR CAN BE COMPRESSED
piston moves forward, as it crosses the inlet port the
Fig. 106
piston starts pressurising the brake fluid in the
master cylinder. This pressurised brake fluid gets
transferred to the caliper through the brake hose.
LIQUID CAN NOT BE COMPRESSED

Fig. 107
As the brake lever is released, the piston return
spring forces the piston to return to its original
position. As the brake fluid from caliper returns
slowly, a negative pressure is being created between
the secondary and primary brake seals. This causes
the collapse of the primary brake seal, which in turns
allows brake fluid to flow to reservoir/master cylinder
through compensating port to counter the negative
pressure.
Fig. 108
As the brake fluid returns from the caliper, the
excess amount of brake fluid drawn from reservoir
returns back through the inlet port.
1. Cap
2. Reservior
3. Master Cylinder Body
4. Dust Boot
5. Secondary Seal
6. Piston
7. Primary Seal
8. Return Spring
Fig. 109
56
B. CALIPER
The type of Disc brake caliper assembly used in Stella

Scooters is called "FIXED CALIPER - DOUBLE PISTON".
The disc brake caliper is mounted on front suspension
swinging arm with the help of caliper holder. When brakes
are applied the pressurised brake fluid flows from master
cylinder to Caliper cylinder and pushes out the pistons.
These pistons will force out the disc pads against the steel
disc. As the disc pads come in contact with the steel disc, a
resistance is offered for its further rotation. This movement
brings both the pads in tight contact with steel disc from both
the sides. This creats friction with the disc and speed is
reduced. Hence braking takes place.
After release of brake lever, the piston retracts due to the

elastic property of the caliper piston seal, and as wheel starts
to rotate, the disc hits both the disc pads, which places them
to their original position. Fig. 110
CALIPER
Fig. 112
1. Banjo Bolt 1a. Copper Washer 2. Caliper Body

3. Brake Fluid Gallery 4. Hanger Pin 5. Bleeder Nipple
6. Allen Bolt 7. Allen Bolt 8. Piston
9. Primary Seal 10. Secondary Seal 11. Brake Pad
12. Steel Disc
Fig. 111 Fig. 113
57
Brake overhaul
General instructions :
1. Never handle brake fluid by bare hands for a longer time since it may result skin disease.
2. If brake fluid comes in contact with eyes, wash eyes with cold water and consult a doctor immediately.
3. Never allow brake fluid to come in contact with any painted parts as it peels off paint. If it happens, wipe
immediately with a damp cloth / wash with water.
4. Never clean any hydraulic brake parts with any mineral oil based cleaner i.e. kerosene, petrol, or diesel etc.
Always clean all the hydraulic brake parts only with fresh brake fluid.
5. Never lubricate any part of hydraulic brake system with mineral base oil or grease.
6. As the brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from atmosphere) by nature, it is better to replace the
brake fluid once in a year (after monsoon), for optimum performace.
7. Whenever any hydraulic brake components are disconnected, perform bleeding operation thoroughly at
reassembly.
8. Always use new washers & circlip also fresh brake fluid.
MASTER CYLINDER
REMOVAL : Before removal of master cylinder, remove cap & take out brake fluid by syrenge or syphon & follow
the following steps.
1. Disconnect front stop switch connection.
2. Remove front stop switch from Master cylinder body.
3. Remove front brake lever by unscrewing nut & screw.
4. Remove handle bar top cover by unscrewing 4 Nos. screws from bottom side.
5. Slip out rubber grommet from Master cylinder body.
6. Disconnect brake hose with the help of 10 mm open end spanner.
7. Remove master cylinder mounting bolts (2 Nos.) by 5 mm Allen Key.
INSTALLATION :
Assemble the master cylinder assy. in reverse order of removal sequence.
Note :
(i) After top up brake fluid remove air from hydraulic system (bleed) and ensure that brake should not be spongy.
(ii) Never top up brake fluid beyond maximum level of Master cylinder reservior.
(iii) Level of brake fluid in the Master cylinder must never be lower than the 'MIN" mark.
BRAKE HOSE
REMOVAL : Before removal of Brake Hose, remove cap & take out brake fluid by syrenge or syphon & follow the
following steps.
1. Remove handle bar top cover by unscrewing 4 Nos. screws from bottom side.
2. Slip out rubber grommet from Master cylinder body.
3.. Disconnect flexible Brake Hose with the help of 10 mm open end spanner from metal brake pipe.
4. Disconnect flexible Brake Hose from caliper assy. by removing banjo bolt with the help of 14 mm spanner.
5. Pull out the flexible Brake Hose from bottom side after removing it from the clamp mounted on mudguard.
58
INSTALLATION :
1. Remove steering column cover first by unscrewing screws.
2. Insert Brake Hose from bottom side through the wire clamp welded on mudguard inner side then pass
through the hole on top and fix it in clamp mounted on mudguard then rout it through chasis from the right
side of steering pipe, chasis terminal and handle bar lower part and handle bar cage.
3. Reconnect Brake Hose same in the reverse order of removal.
Note :
(i) Ensure that there is no bend or friction in the movement of Brake Hose and steering.
CALIPER ASSY.
REMOVAL:
1. Disconnect Brake Hose and collect brake fluid in a seprate pan.
2. Remove front wheel by opining 5 nuts and washers.
3. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out caliper assy.
INSTALLATION :
Follow reverse order of the removal.
NOTE:
(i) After toping up brake fluid bleed hydraulic system to take out air.
(ii) Ensure that while applying brake, operation should be hard. Fig. 114
(iii) Before remvoing brake caliper, first remove front brake lever then start the job.
BRAKE PADS
REMOVAL:
1. Remove front wheel by opining 5 nuts and washers.
2. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out calpier assy.
(Do not disconnect Brake Hose).
3. Remove 'E' type circlip from pad hanger pin and pull out then take out
both the brake pads from caliper assy.
4. Inspect for any wear and tear on pads or glossy / burnt.
INSTALLATION :
Follow the reverse order or removal.
Fig. 115
NOTE :
(i) Do not use sand paper for polishing the pads.
(ii) Do not use the brake pads after wear indicator limit.
(iii) Recommended thickness (Lining + Plate) STD 5.9 mm Service
Limit 3.6 mm.
STEEL DISC
REMOVAL : Fig. 116
1. Remove two mouting bolts from caliper bracket and take out calpier assy. (Do not disconnect Brake Hose).
Then Remove the plastic cap from hub and take out split pin with the help of plier, then remove metal cap from
nut.
2. Remove the nut from axle for hub mounting with the help of 22 mm box
spanner and take out the hub along with steel disc.
3. Unscrew 5 Nos. of Allen key bolts (4 mm) along with washer from steel disc which are mounted on hub.
59
INSTALLATION : Follow reverse order of the removal.
Note :
(i) Keep arrow mark on the disc (if marked on disc) towards the direction of wheel rotation.
(ii) Never use sand paper for polishing the disc as hard particles will scratch / damage the disc surface.
(iii) Check for run out of disc, if found beyond limit, replace the disc.
(iv) Recomended thickness of steel disc STD. 4 mm.
(v) Do not keep the steel disc side face of the wheel on the floor otherwise disc may get damaged or
scratched.
BLEEDING OPERATION
1. Fill the brake fluid reservoir, with fresh recommended brake fluid (DOT -4 Mobile Super Heavy Duty
brake fluid)) up to "UPPER LEVEL".
2. Operate the brake lever several times to build the hydraulic pressure in the brake system, keep a watch
on the brake fluid level in the reservoir.
3. Attach a transparent plastic tube (Poly vinayal) to the bleeder valve.
4. Hold the brake lever in applied position, and loosen the bleeder valve, along with brake fluid air bubbles
will come out through the tube. Tighten the bleeder valve and then release the brake lever. This sequence
ensures that no fresh air enters into the system.
5. Repeat the operation as per above step, till the clear flow of brake fluid comes out through the transparent
tube. In between, if required, fill the reservoir with brake fluid up to "MAX. LEVEL" eye glass again.
PRECAUTIONS
l Do not allow brake fluid to come in contact with eyes. In case of contact, flush throughly with water
and consult a doctor immediately.
l Do not let the brake fluid come in direct contact with hands for longer time. In case of contact, clean
hands properly with water.
l Avoid spilling of brake fluid on the vehicle as it damages painted, plastic & rubber components.
l Do not expose brake fluid directly to atmosphere as its characteristics detoriate by absorbing humidity
from the atmosphere.
60
Front and rear suspension :
(a) Check for the damping conditions of both shock

absorbers. If there are sudden jerks or only the
spring is working or oil is found leaking then
replace the shock absorber.
(b) Check the top buffers of front shock absorber, if
found worn out or compressed, replace with a
new one.
(c) Check mounting buffers of rear shock absorber,
if damaged or compressed, replace with new
one.
Tyre rotation :
(a) A l l t h e t h r e e w h e e l s o f s c o o t e r a r e
interchangeable with each other.
(b) However, the air pressure in the tyre will depend
on whether it is fitted on the front or rear
Fig. 117-Front Suspension
position.
(c) To ensure even wearing of tyre tread, it is
necessary to rotate the tyres and change the
face of the tyre (with respect to wheel rim) after
every 3750 miles.
(d) Follow the sequence for tyre rotation as
explained in fig.118
(3) Slot on Adj. Nut
(2) Screw for Lock
Fig.118-Tyre rotation Fig. 119-Rear Suspension
61
Steering column:
Check steering column for tightness/looseness, if

found improper then proceed as follows:
(a) Remove handle bar top cover. Disconnect all
control cables and electrical connections.
(b) Unscrew handle bar bolt and lift the handle bar.
(c) Unscrew the upper ring nut 'D' and extract the
lock washer 'C'.
(d) Adjust the steering column by loosening or
tightening the bearing cone 'B'. (fig.120).
(e) For greasing of bearings, unscrew the bearing
cone 'B' and remove the ball cage 'A'.
(f) Apply the recommended grease on cage 'A'. and
replace it in its position.
(g) Screw the bearing cone 'B' by hand so as to
bring it in contact with the balls.
(h) Tighten it to locking torque of 5-6 kgm.
(i) Now rotate anticlock wise, the bearing cone 'B'
to 90º or ¼ turn approximately, then place the
lock washer 'C' and screw the ring nut 'D' with a
locking torque from 3 to 4 kgm. (Ref. Page Fig. 120-Steering Column
no. 85)
Note:
The steering column should rotate freely
without any play, under its own weight. Front brake caliper holding bracket assy.:
(a) Remove circlip lock.

Lubrication (b) Unscrew bolts of shock absorber and take out
front brake caliper holding bracket assy.
Gear control assy.: (c) Clean the bearings and shaft, then apply
recommended grease.
(a) Remove gear control assembly cover. (d) Refit the caliper holding bracket in its place and fit
(b) Wash the assembly gently with kerosene. (c) the circlip.
Pressure wash and blow dry with compressed
air. Rear brake pedal and central stand:
(d) Apply recommended grease and refix cover.
(a) Clean rear brake pedal link area and central stand
Front wheel bearing and speedo drive gear: hinge brackets with kerosene and then pressure
wash.
(a) Remove front wheel with hub . (b) Blow dry with compressed air.
(b) Apply recommended grease on front wheel (c) Lubricate brake pedal pin and central stand
bearings and speedo drive gear. brackets for smooth operations.
(c) Refit front wheel.
62
RECOMMENDED OILS AND LUBRICANTS
S.No. DESCRIPTION OF APPLICABLE RECOMMENDED BRAND OF LUBRICANTS

PARTS LUBRICANTS
1. Clutch lever Grease Automotive / Bearing Grease

2. Steering Column Bearing " "
3. Front Wheel Bearings " "
4. Speedo Drive Gear " "
5. Front Suspension '' ''
6. Control Cables '' ''
7. Gear Control assy. '' ''
8. Disc Brake Brake Fluid DOT 4, Mobil Super Heavy Duty
9. Gear Box* Oil SAE 30 Engine oil
Flushing of Gear Box Procedure for flushing-After the gear oil is drained
is must at initial 500 kms. off, fill 100 ml Engine Oil run the engine at idle
speed for few minutes and then drain the oil. Fill the
recommended quantity of fresh Engine oil.
9. Petrol oil mixture Oil Motorcycle - Formulated Two Stroke Oil
* - Recommended quantity of oil to be filled in gear Box is 250 ml + 0 ml.

-- 5 ml.
CHANGING OIL IN GEAR BOX:

First take out engine protection cover.
(a) Drain off the oil crank case by unscrewing the
drain plug '2' (fig.121).
(b) Introduce a small quantity of flushing oil, run the
engine for few minutes and drain off again.
(c) Refill gear box with about 250 ml. of new oil (up to
the level of filling hole by removing level plug '1')
(fig. 121).
(d) This operation of changing oil should be carried
out with warm engine.
Fig. 121
63
LUBRICATION POINTS
1 4
GREASE GREASE GREASE OIL
OIL
GREASE
OIL
OIL OIL OIL GREASE
64
65
66
67
Illustrated Illustrated
TOOL TOOL
on page on page
T-0021467 77 T 0023589 87
Bearing extractor with collet & spacer Punch for oil seal and
main ball bearing
T-0022480 78 T 0023590 102

Punch for expelling bearing from Tool for fitting windshield beading
crank case
F-0709756 (with attachments A,B & C) 92 T-0025095 75

Fixture for engine foundation buffers Engine base plate stand
& tube
68
TOOL TOOL
on page on page
T-0025127 80 19.1.20095 76
Wedge Locking tool for flywheel
T-0027338 89 T-0031729 76
Punch for assy. oil seal flywheel side Wrench for securing clutch
T-0030627 76 RS-00231 95
Wrench for clutch nut Tool for fuel cock
69
TOOL TOOL
on page on page
F-3115576 80
Punch for assy. bearing cone on
crank shaft
T-0033971 87
Punch for fitting roller bearing of
drive shaft
19.1.20021 100
Fixture for overhauling front suspension
with attatchment
T-0038886 77
Tool for separating crank case and
expelling crankshaft
G-2107025 82
Feeler gauge for checking axial play
of gears
F-3720808 61
T-0048564 76 Hook spanner for Bitubo
Flywheel extractor Shock absorber
70
DISMANTLING, OVERHAULING, RE-ASSEMBLY
ENGINE .............................................................................................................................72
NOTES .................................................................................................................................72
DISMOUNTING OF ENGINE .....................................................................................................................73
EXPLODED VIEW OF ENGINE.................................................................................................................74
DISMANTLING - Cylinder head & Cylinder .........................................................................................75
Piston assy. and Wrist pin ........................................................................................75
Clutch assy...............................................................................................................76
Fly wheel Rotor, Back plate assy. ............................................................................76
Crank case halves separation,.................................................................................77
Crank shaft...............................................................................................................77
Crank case half-fly wheel side, ................................................................................77
Crank case half-clutch side,.....................................................................................78
Drive shaft assy........................................................................................................78
Cluster gear assy. ....................................................................................................78
OVERHAULING - Clutch unit ................................................................................................................79
Crank shaft...............................................................................................................79
Drive shaft assy........................................................................................................81
Selector spider & Gear Control rod..........................................................................81
Spring gear assy. .....................................................................................................82
ASSEMBLY CLEARANCES, TOLERANCES & LIMITS.............................................................................83
IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES.....................................................................................................85
CHECKS BEFORE RE-ASSEMBLY ..........................................................................................................86
ASSEMBLY - Crank case half flywheel side ..................................................................................87
Crank case half clutch side ......................................................................................87
(Bearings, circlips and oil seals)
Crank shaft & Drive shaft assy.................................................................................88
Crankcase halves coupling ......................................................................................89
Clutch assy...............................................................................................................89
Gear control box ......................................................................................................90
Flywheel magneto assy............................................................................................90
Piston, rings, cylinder, cyl.head................................................................................90
Air cleaner case, carburettor....................................................................................91
ENGINE FOUNDATION BUFFERS & TUBE .............................................................................................92
71
ENGINE
Notes on dismantling process:
(a) In this chapter, the directions for complete dismantling of scooter are given, through illustrations and with
the use of required special tools. Special tools which are used in different operational sequences are
shown along with their Part Nos. The general tools etc. are not described due to their simple operational
use but have been mentioned the same through the entire operational sequence.
(b) Avoid use of temporary or emergency tools. The parts should be preserved properly and separately to
avoid mix up with the other parts of engine.
(c) Small parts have not been described anywhere in the chapter or figures therefore to avoid confusion at the
time of re-assembly. It is advisable to keep washers, bolts, nuts etc. together with respective components.
For better performance of scooter, change lock washers and spring washers at each dismantling or
overhauling of engine.
(d) All packings/gaskets, oil seals, split pins and 'O' rings must be replaced with new one for each overhauling
of engine.
Parts must be wiped to absolute dry condition by clean and quality rags or be blow dried, if due to any reasons
the re-assembly is postponed then protect the components/parts from atmospheric factors viz oxidation,
rusting etc.
72
Removal of engine from the vehicle:
(a) Drain out gear box oil completely.
(b) Disconnect all electrical connections.
(c) Disconnect all control cables at engine side i.e.

gear cables, clutch cable, and rear brake cable.
(d) Choke cable and throttle / acceleration cable

from carburettor are to be removed after
removal of air cleaner cover and air cleaner. Fig. 122
(e) Close fuel tap then remove fuel pipe from

carburettor and take it out from air cleaner box
and disconnect oil pipe and plug the pipe hole.
(f) Unscrew the rear shock absorber mounting bolt

and nut and take it out.
(g) Separate shock absorber from engine mounting.
(h) Unscrew foundation bolt and nut. Take out the

bolt and remove engine from chassis.
Fig. 123-Rr. shockabsorber mounting bolt & nut
Fig. 124 - Rear Shock Absorber (Rear View)
Fig. 125 - Engine & Foundation Bolt
73
74
ENGINE DISMANTLING :
T-0025095
Fixture for engine with bolt and 'U' clamp.
Remove: Silencer and rear brake drum.
Operation: Mount engine on fixture T-0025095
(Fig.126).
Dismantle: Take out cooling hood, carburettor, air
cleaner, A.C. box and reed valve carefully from
engine.
Fig. 126-Engine Mounting on fixture
Cylinder head and cylinder:
Unscrew 4 nuts diagonally and evenly. (Fig.128)

Take out cylinder head and block.
Caution:
Do not try to take out cylinder head when the
engine is hot.
Piston assy. and wrist pin:

Fig. 127-Carburettor Cover Removal
T-0017820
Punch for dismantling wrist pin.
Remove: Circlips from both sides of piston wrist pin.
Operation: Punch out wrist pin with tool
T-0017820. (Fig.130)
Dismantle: Take out piston and roller cage.
Caution:
Tie the connecting rod to cylinder stud to avoid

hitting the crank case.
Fig. 128-Cylinder Head Removal
Fig. 129-Circlip removal Fig. 130-Dismantling Wrist Pin
75
Clutch assy.:
T-0031729
Wrench for blocking clutch assy.:
Remove: Clutch cover.
Operation: Secure the clutch unit with wrench T-
0031729. (Fig.132)
T-0030627
Wrench for clutch nut:
Remove: pressure plate and straighten nut lock Fig. 131-Clutch Cover Removal
washer.
Operation: Apply wrench T-0030627 and open
clutch nut. (Fig.132)
Dismantle: Clutch unit, woodruff key and shoulder
washer.For removal of Oil pump drive gear, metering
device shaft ref. page 42.
Fly wheel rotor and back plate:
19.1.20095
Locking tool for flywheel.
Remove: Flywheel cover. Fig. 132-Clutch Nut Removal
Operation: Secure flywheel with tool No.
19.1.20095. Open the magneto nut and take out
alongwith washer. (Fig.133)
T-0048564
Flywheel extractor:
Operation: Secure the rotor unit with tool
19.1.20095 and screw in the extractor T-0048564.
Tighten the central bolt. (Fig.134)
Dismantle: Take out flywheel rotor. Unscrew 4
screws to take out back plate assy. along with wiring
harness. Fig. 133-Magnetic Nut Removal
Fig. 134-Flywheel Removal Fig. 135-Back Plate Assy. Removal
76
Crank case halves separation:
Remove: Gear shifter box.

(a) Take out kick lever.
(b) Unscrew all crank case nuts diagonally and
evenly.
(c) Take out magneto side crank case half.
Crank shaft:
T-0038886 Fig. 136-Gear shifter box

Tool for expelling crank shaft.
Operation: Fix the tool T-0038886 on crank case
half (clutch side) cover holes. (Fig.138)
Screw in centre bolt until crank shaft is removed
from crank case.
Caution:
Support crank shaft to avoid misalignment due to

falling.
Crank case half flywheel side: Fig. 137-Magneto side crank case half removal
T-0021467/2, 9, 16 and 18
Roller bearings extractor flywheel side crank
case half.
Remove: Starter sector gear shaft, kick return
spring, oil seal and kick buffers.
Main roller bearing:

Operation (I): Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part 18)
and spacer (Part 2). (Fig.139)
Extract bearing outer race with rollers from crank Fig. 138-Crank Shaft Removal
case half.
Drive shaft roller bearing:
Operation (II): Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part

16) and spacer (Part 9). (Fig.139)
Extract roller bearing from crank case half.
Fig. 139-Bearing Removal
77
Crank case half (clutch side):
T-0021467/1&2
Ball bearing extractor, clutch side crank case
half.
Remove: Main oil seal, inner circlip.

Operation: Fix the tool T-0021467 collet (Part 1) and
spacer (Part 2) to extract main ball bearing from
crank case clutch side. (Fig.140)
Fig. 140-Extracting ball bearing
Drive shaft assy.:
T-0020837
Punch for extracting drive shaft.
Operation: Extract dirve shaft assy. by using punch
tool T-0020837.(Fig.141)
Cluster gear assy.
Dismantle:
Lift the lock (Tab washer) from nut. Open the nut and
Fig. 141-Extracting drive shaft
press the shaft inside from other ends of shaft and
take out 21 rollers. Tap with mallet to remove cluster
gear assy.
Drive shaft, ball bearing, oil seal and circlip:
T-0022480
Punch for expelling ball bearing from crank case.
Remove: Circlip and oil seal from crank case.
Operation: Expel ball bearing from crank case by
using punch T-0022480 from inside.(Fig.144)
Fig. 142-Cluster gear assy. removal
Fig. 143-Cluster gear assy. Fig. 144-Expelling ball bearing
78
Clutch unit overhauling:
T-0020322
Tool for clutch unit dismantling & assembling.
Dismantling:
Operation:
(a) Fix the tool T-0020322 to clutch unit and
compress by tightening nut 'C'. (Fig.145)
(b) Take out circlip by lifting one end 'D' first. Fig. 145-Clutch unit
(c) Release the tool and take out springs and clutch
plates.
Reassembly:
Operation:
(a) Fix the tool T-0020322 and compress the springs
between outer case and gear plate assy. by
tightening the nut 'C'.
(b) Place the plates in reverse sequence order of
dismantling proces.
Fig. 146-Clutch unit - exploded view
(c) Fix the circlip in outer case (clutch bell) groove.
Caution:
Both ends of circlip must be fixed between the
groove of clutch bell.
Crank Shaft Main roller bearing inner cone:
19.1.14499
Bearing extractor (inner cone) from crank shaft.
Fig. 147-Removing Clutch plates
Dismantling:
Operation:
(a) Place adaptor halves (part 23) on inner cone.
(Fig.148)
(b) Fit the bearing extractor 19.1.14499 collet over
the adaptor halves to clamp firmly and extract
inner cone.
Fig. 148-Extracting bearing inner cone
79
F-3115576
Punch for assembling bearing cone on crank
shaft
Assembling:
(a) Place crank shaft on a suitable block 'D'.
(Fig.149)
(b) Heat the inner cone 'C' in oil bath to temp. 100°C
and fit on crank shaft with punch
F-3115576. (Fig.149)
T-0025127
Wedge for crank shaft web support
Use wedge T-0025127 for crank shaft web support to

avoid deformation. (Fig.149) Fig. 149-Assembling bearing cone
Crank shaft alignment:
T-0019559/C
Jig for checking alignment
Operation:
(a) Place crank shaft assy. on jig
T-0019559/C. (Fig.150)
(b) Check eccentricity of dia 'C'. (Fig.150)
Max tolerance 0.02 mm.
(c) Check eccentricity of surfaces dia 'A' & 'B'
Max. tolerance 0.03 mm.
Caution:
Do not attempt to dismantle crank shaft assy. for
repairs. Replace crank shaft assy. with a new
one.
Fig. 150-Jig for checking alignment
80
Drive shaft assy.
Remove: Circlip, shoulder washer and take off 4

gears in a sequence.
Dismantle:
(a) Unscrew gear control rod by turning clockwise
(left thread) from selector spider.
(b) Take out selector spider.
Assembly:
(a) Insert selector spider 'A' in drive shaft.
(b) Screw tight the rod 'B' (left thread) anticlock wise
Fig. 151-Drive shaft assy.
to torque 1.5 - 1.8 kgm.
(c) Control rod to be caulked as shown in fig.151
Selector spider and gear control rod:
(Fig.152)
1. Insert the selector spider 'A' in the drive shaft,
screw tight the rod 'B' (left hand thread) with a
1.5-1.8 Kgm. locking torque.
2. Cut a conic appendix 'C' as illustrated in fig.152
in a flat bar 'D' (thickness 5 mm) and insert the flat
bar in a spline of the gear shaft until the appendix
'C' coincides with the end 'F' of the gear control
rod to be caulked.
3. Clamp in a vice the flat 'D' bar, (the rod above), as
illustrated in fig.152, then tap with a hammer on a
tube (inner Ø17.5 mm) put on the rod edge 'B' to
caulk the threaded rod end 'F' on the selector
spider 'A'.
Caution:
Please note the spider has left hand thread.
Fig. 152-Side view - drive shaft assy.
Fig. 153-Exploded view - drive shaft assy.

81
Gear assy. clearance check:
G-2107025
Feeler gauge for checking axial play of gears on
drive shaft.
Assembly:
(a) Circlip, shoulder washer of 1 mm and 4 gears
should be in sequence of 4th, 3rd, 2nd and 1st.
(b) Fit a suitable shoulder washer and outer circlip.
(c) Check axial play with feeler gauge G-2107025.
(Fig.154)
(d) Clearance 'A' should be between 0.15-0.40mm.
Fig. 154-Gear assy. - cut section view

Spacer washer
Category Dim. Limits Clearance 'A'

(mm) (mm) on assy
Standard 1.0 + 0.00

- 0.06
1st o/s 1.1 + 0.00

- 0.06
2nd o/s 1.2 + 0.00 0.15 to 0.40

- 0.06 (mm)
3rd o/s 1.3 + 0.00

- 0.06
Fig. 155-Checking clearance
4th o/s 1.5 + 0.00
- 0.06
Note:
If the clearance “A” is not obtained by using the

normal spacer washer “B” , then fit oversize
washer to obtain prescribed clearance. Use a feeler
gauge (e.g. G-2107025, for inspection Fig.155).
Spring gear assy.:
Remove the circlip and expel the pin by light mallet

blows on its end (on the opposite side of ball
bearing).
Fig. 156-Pin removal
82
Assembly clearances, tolerances and limits:
In case of a rebored cylinder, the dimension 'E'

(fig.157) should exceed the dimension 'C' on the
piston to be fitted (marked on the piston itself), by the
value indicated (Clearance on assembly)
Cylinder - Piston
Part name Size Limits
Cylinder E = 57.80 + 0.025
Standard - 0.005
Piston C = 57.585 ± 0.015
Standard
Cylinder E = 58 - 0.000
1st o/s + 0.020
Piston C = 57.785 ± 0.010
1st o/s
Cylinder E = 58.2 - 0.000
2nd o/s + 0.020
Piston C = 57.985 ± 0.010
2nd o/s
Cylinder E = 58.4 - 0.000
3rd o/s + 0.020 Fig. 157-Cut section view - cylinder
Piston C=58.185 ± 0.010

3rd o/s
Clearance on assy. = 0.225 mm.
Note:
Ensure that the arrow marked on the piston crown is

facing towards the exhaust port side at the time of
cylinder piston assembly.
83
Piston rings - (fig.158)
Part name Dimension Limits
Upper and lower piston

ring standard 57.8 ± 0.03
Piston ring 1st o/s 58.0 ± 0.03

Piston ring 2nd o/s 58.2 ± 0.03
Piston ring 3rd o/s 58.4 ± 0.03
Clearance “A” on assy. = 0.20 - 0.35

Max. Service limit = 1 mm
Fig. 158-Piston ring

Connecting rod - wrist pin - roller cage (fig.159)
The connecting rods and roller cages are subdivided
in 4 categories and the category number is marked
on every connecting rod and roller cage.
Assemble the connecting rod with roller of the
same category, if the engine is noisy, use cages of
the next superior category.
Note:
The maximum axial clearance admissible after use

of the connecting rod (longitudnal run of crank
pin) is of 0.7 m m.
For the wrist pin, that is coupled with a '0' (Zero)

clearance on assembly the maximum permissible
clearance for wrist pin after use is 0.02 mm. Fig. 159-Cut section showing wrist pin
& connecting rod
84
IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES
Part Torques in Kgm
Engine unit
Backplate securing screw 0.3 -0.4
Starter lever securing nut 2.3 - 2.6
Pick up securing screw 0.2 - 0.25
Clutch unit securing nut 4 - 4.5
Gear cluster pin securing nut 3 - 3.5
Flywheel magneto securing nut 6 - 6.5
Carburettor securing bolts 1.6 - 2
Clutch cover bolts 0.6 - 0.8
Cylinder head securing nuts 1.3 - 1.8
Nuts (No 3) securing starting motor to crankcase 1 - 1.5
Lower bolt securing starting motor 0.6 - 0.8
Front suspension unit

Nuts for securing damper plate to steering column 2 - 2.7
Damper upper retaining nut 3-4
Damper lower retaining nuts 2 - 2.7
Bolt for jaw self-adjusting plate 0.7 - 1
Brake pin lever securing nut 0.7 - 1
Steering unit
Steering column upper bearing 5 - 6*
Steering column upper bearing ring nut 3-4
Handlebar securing screw 3 - 4.4
Rear suspension unit

Bolt for securing engine to chassis 6 - 7.5
Damper lower part. securing nut 1.6 - 2.5
Wheel unit
Rear wheel shaft securing nuts 9 - 10
Nut for securing front and rear wheel 2 - 2.7
Rims to the drum
Front wheel axle securing nut 7.5 - 9
* - When locking of 5 - 6 Kgm is reached, unscrew for 1/4 of turn.
85
Checks before reassembly:
Following points should be strictly adhered to Shafts and axles:

before reassembly of engine. Carefully examine the (a) Bearing and sliding surfaces should not
condition of each and every individual parts. present indentation and abrasions so that a
good running is compromised.
(b) They should be suitably lubricated. If required,
Crank cases: change with new one.
It should not be cracked or deformed and the
bearing seats should not be damaged or worn. Starter gear/Sector gear :
Check that the teeth of the coupling are not
excessively worn out and the engagement with
Ball bearings: starter gear is correctly carried out.
(a) Check the bearings and ensure that the axial
play should not be more.
(b) Check their smoothness by wheeling them by Clutch:
hand. Check the wearing on the plates, couplings on plates
and toothing of the gear. If wearing is found then
Roller cages : replace the damaged parts.
(a) For each re-assembling operation use new
cage, by observing following rules;
(b) Wash the new cage in pure petrol or in paraffin Gears:
in order to eliminate the slush. Check the condition of the toothing, if it presents
(c) After greasing, place the roller cage with some spalling or an excessive wear, then replace
stamped side facing outwards, which is fitted as with new one.
indicated in the respective fig. of the present
chapter, by using the proper tooling. Always use new gaskets, oil seals and split
pins.
86
Re-assembly of engine.
19.1.20017
Electric heater for heating crank case bearing
zone.
Operation: Heat the crank case bearing zone with

heater 19.1.20017 up to a temp. of approx. 80ºC
before fitting the bearing in the crank case. (fig.160)
Crank case half (Fly wheel side): Fig. 160-Electric heater heating the crank case
T-0021071
Punch for assembling crank shaft roller bearing.
Operation: Fit the main roller bearing 'A' by using

the punch T-0021071 in crank case. (fig.161)
T-0033971
Punch for drive shaft DC roller bearing. (fig.161)
Operation: Fit the drive shaft D C roller bearing 'B'

by using the punch T-0033971 in crank case.
Fig. 161-Assembling crank shaft roller bearing
Crank case half (clutch side):
T 0023589
Punch for main ball bearing and oil seal.
Main ball bearing, circlip and oil seal:
Fix the crank case on fixtrue T-0025095 and heat

the bearing zone.
Operation: Fit main ball bearing 'E' by using the Fig. 162-Main ball bearing fitment
punch T 0023589. (Fig.162)
Assemble: Place the inner circlip 'F'.

Fit the oil seal 'G' by punch T 0023589. (Fig.163)
Caution:
Ensure that oil seal is fitted with flat face towards

the bearing.
Fig. 163-Affixing the inner circlip
87
Drive shaft ball bearing and circlip:
T-0020781
Punch for assembling ball bearing and oil seal.
Operation: heat the bearing zone.
Fit ball bearing in crank case by using punch T-

0020781. (Fig.164)
Fit the retaining circlip 'I'. Fig. 164-Assembly ball bearing & circlip
F-2306849
Tool for assembling crank shaft and drive shaft.
Crank shaft assy:

F-2306849/1&2
Operation: Fit the crank shaft assembly by using
tool F-2306849 and parts 1 & 2. (Fig.165)
Drive shaft assy.:
F-2306849/1&6
Fit the drive shaft assembly by using tool Fig. 165-Assembling crank shaft
F-2306849 and parts 1 & 6.(Fig.166)
19.1.20781
Punch for assembling ball bearing and oil seal.
Fit the oil seal 'G' by using punch T-0020781.
(Fig.167)
Caution:
Ensure that the oil seal should not be pushed
against bearing retaining circlip.
Fig. 166-Assembling drive shaft
Fig. 167-Punching oil seal
88
Kick starter assembly & starter gear:
(a) Fix both 'O' rings in crank case half (flywheel
side) and apply small qty. of grease between 'O'
rings.
(b) Fit sector gear shaft and kick return spring.
(c) Fit the kick pedal.
(d) Replace stop buffers of starter sector gear.
(e) Fix oil conveyer rib.
(f) Place starter gear on cluster gear, ensure rachet
teeths are meshed.
(g) Place starter gear tension spring properly. Fig. 168-Starter gear
Crank case halves coupling:

(a) Smear grease on gasket surface of both the
crank case halves.
(b) Place gasket (on flywheel side crank case).
(c) Join the both crank case halves.
Caution:
Fix 4 nuts and tight them diagonally and evenly to
specified torque. Crank shaft should not be acted on,
for easing the free rotation. Tighten remaining 8 nuts
to specified torque values.
Fig. 169-Crank case halve
T-0027338
Punch for assembling oil seal flywheel side:
Operation:
(a) Place the oil seal 'A' on seat of the punch
T-0027338.
(b) Push oil seal in seat. (Fig.170)
Clutch assembly
Fig. 170-Assembling oil seal - flywheel side
T-0030627
Wrench for clutch assy.:
Assembly:
(a) Fix woodruff 'key' and shoulder washer in
position. Mount clutch unit. Place the lock
washer and ring nut.
(b) Secure clutch unit by using tool T-0031729
(c) Tighten ring nut with wrench T-0030627 to
torque 4.0 - 4.5 kgm. (fig.171).
(d) Fold lock washer over ring nut slot.
(e) Fit the pressure plate in position. Fig. 171-Wrench for clutch assy.
89
(f) Mount clutch cover and secure with bolts.
(g) Tighten the cluster gear securing nut and
bend the lock washer open nut.
Gear control box:
Locating the lever in gear control rod and press the

gear control box in position.
Flywheel magneto assy.:

Fig. 172-Bending lock washer open nut
Mount stator plate by coinciding the ignition timing
marks.
(a) Mount flywheel rotor on crank shaft after locating

the woodruff key in position.
(b) Lock flywheel with tool 19.1.20095 and tight en
the nut to torque 6 - 6.5 kgm. (Fig.175)
Piston, rings, cylinder and cylinder head:
(a) Place the needle cage in small and connecting Fig. 173-Gear control rod
rod.
(b) Fit the piston assembly by pressing wrist pin into
connecting rod with a punch tool T-0017820.
(Fig.176)
(c) Lock the wrist pin on both ends with a circlip.
(d) Place the piston rings into a groove.
(e) Fit the cylinder block.
(f) Place the cylinder head and tighten 4 nuts
diagonally and evenly to torque values of 1.3-1.8
kgm.
Fig. 174-Flywheel magneto assy.
Fig. 176-Assembling piston Fig. 175-Locking the flywheel with tool
90
Reed Valve :
Mount Reed valve with new gaskets in
position.
Air cleaner case:

Mount air cleaner case with packing in
position.
Carburettor:
Mount carburettor assembly with packing in its
Fig. 177-Mounting the air cleaner case
position.
Air cleaner, cover and cooling hood:

Fit air cleaner on the carburettor.
Fix air cleaner cover and cooling hood.
Silencer and brake drum:

Assemble silencer assembly and rear brake drum to
the specified torque values as mentioned on page
85.
Fig. 178-Mounting the carburettor
Fig. 179-Mounting the air cleaner
91
Engine foundation buffers & TUBE
Remove: engine from chassis and take out silencer,
cooling hood and kick lever. Release both the
spacers after grinding on their faces and take out
with the help of a screw driver.
F-0709756 with attachments (A, B & C)

Fixture for extracting & fitting of engine
foundation buffers and tube:
Dismantling of foundation tube: (Fig. 180)
F-0709756/C
Tool for dismantling tube:
Operation:
(a) Insert lead screw (part 2C) alongwith support
tube (part 1C) and Hex. nut (part 3C) into
foundation tube from clutch side.
(b) From other end fix the nut (part 4C) on lead
screw, till it butts against foundation tube.
(c) Hold tommy bar (part 5C) and tight nut (part 3C)
till the tube comes out.
(d) Remove both the buffers from crank case
Fig. 180-Fixture of extracting & fitting of
foundation with the help of screw driver. Unscrew
engine foundation buffers and tube
the nut (part 4C) and take out the tube.
Assembling buffers. (Fig. 181)

F-0709756/A
Tool for assembling buffers:
(a) Insert stop washer in crank case foundation from
clutch side.
(b) Apply liquid soap on outer surface of small buffer
and press fit by thumb in crank case foundation
from clutch side. Ensure that tapered side of
buffer faces crank case.
(c) Insert the tie rod (part 2A) alongwith locator
(part1A) and nut (part 3A) into foundation
through buffer hole from clutch side. Flat face of
locator should be outward.
(d) From other end place the locator (part 6A) on
crank case foundation.
(e) Place big buffer duly dipped in liquid soap inside
the locator (part 6A) with tapered portion facing
inwards.
(f) Insert pushing pad (part 4A) into locator (part 6A)
above the buffer with tapered portion facing
inwards and screw the special nut (part 5A) on
tie rod. Fig. 181-Tool for assembling buffers
92
(g) Tighten the special nut slowly and progressively
(part 5A) and tighten nut (part 3A) till big buffer
retains its position in the crank case foundation.
Unscrew special nut (part 5A) and take out tie rod
alongwith locators.
Assembly of tube: (Fig. 182)

F-0709756/B
Tool for assembling tube:
(a) Place fixture (part 9B) on crank case foundation
from magneto side.
(b) Fix the flange [(part 7B) (alongwith part 5B, 6B and
8B)] on fixture from clutch side and fix two nuts
(part 11B)
(c) Insert guide pin (part 3B) into foundaiton tube and
tighten with nut (part 4B).
(d) Insert pointed end of guide pin (part 3B) through
flange (part 7B) into crank case buffer and press
gently by hand.
Note: Fig. 182-Tool for assembling tube
Before inserting, ensure guide pin conical surface and
inner surface of buffers hole are applied with liquid
soap.
(e) Keep the lead screw open, screw-in outer tube

(part 2B) alongwith lead screw (part 1B), into
flange (part 7B).
(f) Tighten the lead screw (part 1B) slowly and
progressively, until foundation tube retains its
position in crank case.
(g) Loosen the lead screw (part 1B), remove outer
tube (part 2B) and unscrew nut from guide pin (part
3B) and take it out.
(g) Unscrew nuts (part 11B), take out flange (part 7B)
with fixture.
(i) Fit the spacers on both sides of tube (small size
spacer on clutch side and big size on magneto
side) and caulk the tube on both sides at four
places to hold spacers at both ends.
93
CHASSIS 95
Handle bar 95
Petrol tank 95
Steering column 96
Front wheel hub & Caliper holding plate 98
Speedo drive pinion 99
Front suspension unit 100
Wind shield beading 102
Security locks 103
Glove compartment 104
Engine mounting on chassis 105
Control cables fitment 106
Cable routing & renewal 106
Rear brake pedal 107
Ignition switch 108
Tail lamp assy & blinker lamps 108
Operations and checks before operating 109
Care of vehicle when not in use 109
94
CHASSIS
Handle bar:
(a) Remove 4 screws from handlebar bottom.
(b) Lift upward speedo cable & disconnect from
speedometer.
(c) Disconnect electrical connections from socket.
(d) Remove Head Lamp assembly by unscrewing 2
crews from sides and 1 from bottom.
(e) Disconnect cables, (Accelerator, Gears, Clutch)
Fig. 183-Handlebar
(f) Unscrew the handlebar clamp bolt and
take it out.
(g) Lift the handlebar bottom.
Dismantling and assembling :

Petrol tank:
(a) Disconnect fuel level indicator cables from petrol
tank top.
(b) Remove packing for fuel cock rod from frame.
(c) Now act on both securing bolts ‘B’ with spanner
and remove them alongwith spring washer
Fig. 184-Loosening securing bolts of petrol tank
(fig.184). Now lift the tank out from the frame.
For oil tank removal ref. page 44.
For assembling follow the reverse operation as
above.
Petrol tank & fuel cock:

RS-00231
Wr e n c h f o r f u e l c o c k d i s m a n t l i n g a n d
assembling:
Dismantling:
Fig. 185-Lifting out the tank from frame
Remove fuel gauge float unit.
Operation:
(a) Insert wrench RS-00231 in tank.
(b) Open the nut 'D'.
(c) Take out fuel cock. (fig.186)
Assembly: Follow reverse order of dismantling with

tool RS-00231.
Fig. 186 - Tool for dismantling fuel cock
95
Steering column:
19.1.20055
Tool for track and ring nut (Stg.col.)
Remove: Handle bar. Push down control cables.
Operation:
(a) Place tool 19.1.20055 on the ring nut and open.
(fig.206).
(b) Again with the same tool open the upper track.
Caution:
Hold steering column while opening the track to

avoid damage to threads.
T-0020842
Punch for lower track removal.
Fig. 187-Exploded view - steering column
Remove: Steering column from chassis frame.
Operation: Insert the punch T-0020842 from lower
end and punch out the lower track from the chassis
steering column tube. (fig.188)
19.1.20004
Punch for upper track removal.
Operation: Insert the punch 19.1.20004 from top
side of chassis steering column tube and punch out
the upper track of lower bearing. (fig.189)
T-0016561 Fig. 188 Fig. 189

Extractor for lower track from steering column. Punch for lower track & upper track removal
Operation: Assemble the tool T-0016561 on
steering column and extract lower race. (fig.190)
Inspection:
Check all tracks for any pitting or dents on the
surface. If found, replace the set of tracks and ball
cage.
Fig. 190-Extractor for lower track

Fig. 191-Tracks and Ball cage from steering column
96
Re-assembly:
T-0016029
Punch for assembling lower track on steering
column.
Lower track of lower bearing:
Operation:
Punch lower track 'S' with dust cover 'P' on steering
column with punch T-0016029. (fig.192)
Upper track and lower track on chassis steering
column tube:
T-0021330
Fixture for assembling lower track and upper
track on chassis steering column tube.
Operation:
Fit the tool T-0021330 alongwith upper track 'A' and
lower track 'B' in respective positions on the
chassis tube and tighten the nut 'D' (fig.193) Fig. 192-Punch for assembling lower track
Steering column assembly on chassis: on steering column
Assembly:
(a) Insert steering column assembly with lower ball
cage duly greased into the chassis from lower
side.
(b) Place small ball cage 'A' duly greased and screw
upper track 'B' from top side.
19.1.20055/C
Tool for track & ring nut.
Operation:
(a) Tighten the upper track with tool 19.1.20055/C
up to torque 5-6 kgm. (fig.194)
(b) Loosen the track by turning ¼ turn open (90°)
(fig.195)
Fig. 193-Fixture for assembling lower track

and upper track on chassis stg. column tube
Fig. 195-Loosening the track by 90° Fig. 194-Tightening of upper track

97
(c) Place spacer washer 'C' and tighten top ring nut
'D' to torque 3-4 kgm. (fig.196)
Check: Steering column rotation should be free

without play on its weight.
Front wheel hub and Caliper holding plate:

Front wheel Hub:
Dismantling:
Remove: Dust cap 'A', split pin 'B' and lock cap 'C'.
(fig.197) Fig. 196-Tightening of top ring nut
Open the nut and take out the front brake drum.
Caliper Holding Plate Assy.
Remove:
(a) Shock absorber bolts, Caliper assy. and speedo
cable,Circlip lock and spacer washer from axle
shaft.
(b) Take out Caliper holding plate with spacer and
'O' ring.
Overhauling Fig. 197-Removal of Dust cap
Front wheel hub: (fig.198)
Remove: Oil seal 'F', Circlip 'G' and ball bearing 'H'.
Punch out needle bearing 'I' with suitable punch of
dia.18 mm.
Note:
Replace bearings, if worn out.
19.1.20038
Punch for assembling roller bearing in front
wheel hub.
Assembly : (fig.199)
(a) Heat bearing zone with heater.
(b) Use punch 19.1.20038 for roller bearing 'I'
fitment. Fig. 198-Oil seal, Circlip
(c) Fit ball bearing 'H' with suitable punch dia of 34 & Ball bearing
mm.
(d) Lock with circlip 'G' and fix new oil seal 'F'.
98
Caliper holding plate assembly:
(a) Remove: Oil seals.
(b) Two needle bearings by suitable punch dia of 27
mm.
19.1.20036 and 19.1.20037

Punch for Caliper holding plate needle bearings
assembly from out side and inside.
Assembly:
(a) Heat the bearing zone of holding plate.
(b) Punch needle bearings with punch
19.1.20036 from outside and 19.1.20037 from
inside respectively.
(c) Slide on 'O' Ring on holding plate.
(d) Fit small oil seal from out side and big oil seal
from inside. Apply grease to holding plate Fig. 199-Assembling holder bearing in front hub
bearings.
Reassembly of Caliper holding plate and Front

wheel hub assembly:
(a) Place shim washer on axle shaft.
(b) Fit the brake jaw flange assy. Place shoulder
washer on the axle shaft and lock by circlip 'D'.
(c) Slip the seal ring into the gap of Caliper holding
plate and Link.
(d) Fit the front wheel hub and tighten the nut to
the specified torque value of 7.5 to 9 kgm. Fig. 200-Reassembly of brake drum
(e) Place lock cap 'C' and lock with split pin (f) 'B'.
Fix dust cap 'A'. (fig.200)
(g) Refix the Caliper assy. on Caliper Holding Plate
Note:
Ensure correct locking with split pin as shown in
fig. 201.
Speedo drive pinion Overhauling:

(a) Unscrew the bolt for fixing the plate from Caliper
holding plate and take out the cable fixing plate
alongwith the speedo cable. (fig.202) Fig. 201-Correct split pin locking
(b) Check the speedometer inner cable for any
breakage. Replace if required.
(c) Remove the grommet & drive pinion housing.
(d) Rotate the wheel anticlockwise to remove the
speedo pinion. Check for damages, if any.
Replace if required, duly smeared with
recommended grease.
(e) Assemble the same in reverse order.
Fig. 202-Speedo Drive Pinion
99
Front suspension pin: (fig.203)
Dismantling:
Tab washers:
(a) Use punch dia of 12 mm. to squash the tab

washers. (fig.204)
(b) Remove tab washers from both sides.

Fig. 203-Front suspension pin
Front suspension pin and bearing:
19.1.20021 with parts.
Fixture for overhauling front suspension link

with serviceable attachments.
(a) Operation: Attach fixture 19.1.20021 alongwith

part 1 at the top and part 18 at the bottom to
steering column and link assembly (fig.205)
Fig. 204-Punch dia to squash tab washers
(b) Tighten handle screw to press out suspension

pin from the link and steering column.
(c) Separate the suspension link from steering

column
(d) Replace part 1 with part 2.
(d) Press out 2nd DC roller bearing from link
Note:
2nd DC roller bearing should be at the bottom side to
avoid breakage of suspension link.
Fig. 205-Fixture for overhauling front suspension

link with serviceable attachments.
100
Assembly:
Operation: Connect swing hub to steering column

with pin (part 5) (fig.206)
Note:
Insert the 'O' Rings 'C' on link as detail 'A'.
(a) Place tool 19.1.20021 with part 3 and new

suspension pin at the top and part 4 at the
bottom.
(b) Ensure that the suspension pin is lubricated.
(c) Rotate screw handle till butts the face of part 3

with swing hub.
(d) Place (2) two spacers part 17 between hub and

Fig. 206 - Connecting swing hub
steering column end. to steering column
(e) Replace part 3 at the top by part 16 and retain

part 4 at the bottom. (fig.207)
(f) Place oil seal , DC roller bearing on suspension

pin duly lubricated alongwith tab washer.
(g) Rotate screw handle till part 16 butts the face of

swing hub.
(h) Reverse the position for 2nd bearing fitment.
(i) Replace bottom part 4 with part 22 retaining part

17 in position.
Fig. 207-Location of parts
101
(k) Place the oil seal and DC roller bearing on
suspension pin duly lubricated and press DC
roller bearing alongwith tab washer in position.
(l) Replace part 16 with part 20 at the top and part
22 with part 21 at the bottom. (fig.208)
(m) Rotate handle and position of DC roller
bearing.
(n) Lock tab washers by using part 3 and part 4
finally and remove spacers using part 17.
(o) Displace packings ('O' rings) between link and
steering column gaps.
Wind shield beading:
T 0023590
Tool for fitting wind shield beading.
(a) Slide the beading on wind shield with proper

profile matching by rubber mallet.
(b) Use rubber band to hold beading in position. Fig. 208-Location of parts
(c) Roll the tool T 0023590 on beading from point 'B'
to 'A'. (fig.209)
(d) Continue rolling down on both sides till the
operation is completed.
Fig. 209-Fitting of wind shield beading

102
Replacement of security lock barrel:
When it is necessary to replace the security lock
barrel ( because of mislay of keys or standardization
of the locks ) then follow these instructions:
Barrel removal:
(a) In case of key mislay when the security lock is

in the "LOCK" position (locked steering column)
then it is necessary to drill the barrel with a
drill of Æ 8 mm. for a depth of about 30 mm. In Fig. 210 - Drilling of lock barrel
this way, we release or destroy the securing
internal device of the barrel to the external body
of the lock so that the extraction of lock body and
drilling of barrel is possible.
(b) In order to make use again of lock body during

reassembling, clean the body out from swarf of
the drilled barrel.
(c) When the security device is in the "OFF" position

(steering column not locked and engine ignition
grounded) the dismantling will be carried out as Fig. 211 - Inserting a screw driver
follows:
(i) Unscrew the three screws securing the

steering column cover, and remove it.
(ii) Insert a small screwdriver into the hole as

indicated with arrow in fig.211, the hole is on the
lower side of the lock's outer body.
(iii) Push the screwdriver top against the tang and

extract the lock body and barrel.
103
Assembling:
(a) Carefully clean the lock body out from swarfs
(if the barrel has been drilled) with compressed
air.
(b) Fit, after having mounted the securing spring
plate 'E' as indicated in fig.212, the lock body in
its seat.
(c) Insert the complete barrel with key and
anchoring tang "F" facing downwards into the
lock body till half portion is inserted.
(d) Insert the key facing "ON" position as this
position allows only the barrel to be inserted into
the lock body.
(e) Now rotate the key anticlockwise towards the Fig. 212
'OFF' position and at the same time press the Mounting the Lock Barrel
barrel till gets inside completely.
(f) Check the operation of the device by rotating the
key in three different positions and mount the
steering column cover.
Lock barrel refitting:
Saddle and glove compartment barrel (a) Insert the barrel in lock housing and position the
replacement: stopper in the champhered spline groove.
(b) Push barrel partially and rotate by 90º clockwise,
(a) For replacing these parts act as we have so that stopper takes its position in RH slot.
described in fig. 210. First dismantle barrel in (c) Refit the lever and clamp by following the
case of key mislay when the security lock is in removal procedure in reverse order.
the 'LOCK' position. (by drilling barrel). Note:
(b) In case of key mislay, when the security lock is in While refitting the barrel, it is not to be rotated
the open position, take off the pushing up to the anticlockwise to avoid any damage to moulded
end lever 'F' as shown in fig.211 and fit a new stopper/splines.
barrel, after cleaning the housing.
104
Mounting of engine on chassis :
(a) Place the engine in position with body.

(b) Insert mounting bolt and rear shock absorber
bolt in respective places and tight the bolts
with nuts.
(c) Connect the all electrical connections and other
points.
(d) Assemble carburettor, Reed valve and air filter.
Fig. 213
(e) Connect fuel pipe to carburettor banjo and oil
Engine Mounting Bolt
pipe to 'AOM' device.
(f) Check and adjust spark plug gap, fit and
connect with H T Lead.
(g) Fill 250 + 0 / – 5 ml. oil in gear box.
(h) All control cables are to be connected in their
respective positions as explained in cables
fitment procedure.
(i) Start and tune the engine. Take a trial run of
scooter.
(j) Check running of engine and do the final setting Fig. 214
of engine tune-up. Rear Shock Absorber Bolt
(k) Make adjustment of lights, brakes and other
controls.
105
Control cables fitment:
Connect respective transmission controls (gear
cable, clutch cable, speedo cable, brake cable front
and rear and choke cable).
a) Clutch cable :
(a) Ensure a free play of 2 mm on clutch lever
with the sleeve (fig.216). (b) For setting clutch
lever,(2mm gap), insert a feeler gauge of 2 mm
Fig. 215 - Gear Cable
thickness between clutch control lever and
sleeve. (c) Lock cable at tail end with terminal on
outer lever.(d) Adjust clutch cable till it is in
tension and check kick slippage. (e) Remove
feeler gauge at this stage. (f) Vehicle should not
move in first gear when clutch lever is fully
pressed, if required, adjust to have sufficient free
play at clutch control lever.
b) Gear cable
Gear cables are to be adjusted with adjuster
screws fitted with each gear cable on gear
shifter box.
c) Throttle cable :
Assemble the cable to the throttle valve rod,
passing through air cleaner box. Adjust free play
of 2mm approx.
d) Choke lever and cable assembly : Fig. 216 - Clutch Cable
(a) Remove carburettor cover and air filter
element to gain access to rear end of the cable,
which can be unhooked and pulled out of the (c) In all the cases where the complete cable is to
casing.(b) Remove the fuel tank to get access to be replaced, note that the damaged cable
the front of the cable. must be left in position (passing through
chassis) to provide a method of drawing the
e) Rear brake cable : new cable into place.
(a) Free rear end of the cable by releasing the (d) Using strong PVC tape, bind the lower end of
nut and retainer plate which secures it to the the new cable outer to the upper end of the old
brake arm and unscrew the cable adjuster. cable. Care should be taken to leave loose ends,
which might snag as the cables are pulled
(b) Adjust the cable to give minimum free play
through the body.
required to prevent the brake from dragging.
(e) The new cable can now be drawn into position
Cable routing :
pulling the old one out.
Control cable replacement :
(a) In the event of one of the control cables
breaking, it should be noted that as a rule, the Note:
inner cable should be replaced separately. All cables in handle bar passing through body are to
(b) Exceptions to these are the choke, and throttle be replaced by above process, except for rear brake
control cables, because of their design. These cable and choke cable.
are to be replaced completely.
106
Overhauling of rear brake pedal:
Dismantling :
(a) Disconnect the rear brake cable by looseing

the link nut and take it out.
(b) Remove the brake pedal rubber.
(c) Remove brake pedal bracket nuts and take it
out.
(d) Remove the return spring.
(e) Remove the split pin 'A' and take out the rear
brake cable. Fig. 217 - Brake Pedal - view from underneath
(f) Remove the brake switch by unscrewing the
bolt 'B' and disconnect the electrical
connections.
(g) Remove the brake pedal from bracket by
taking out the pin with the help of arbour press.
(h) Clean all the parts in kerosene.
(i) Inspect all the moving parts for wear and tear
and corrosion.
(j) Replace, if required.
Assembly :
(a) Assemble the brake pedal to the bracket by
inserting the pin duly greased. Fig. 218-Split pin 'A' and bolt 'B'
(b) Press with an arbour press.
(c) Fit the return spring.
(d) Insert the rear brake cable through the hole
provided on the bracket and pull it out.
(e) Connect the rear brake cable to brake pedal by
inserting the pin and secure it by a new split pin.
(f) Connect the electrical connections to the rear
brake light switch and secure it with the bracket.
Note :
Any loose contact will create problems.
Fig. 219-Brake pedal - view from side
107
Ignition Switch :
(a) Remove steering column cover.
(b) Ignition switch is located on the lock body fixed
with grub screw. (fig.220).
(c) Disconnect plug socket connection and check
continuity by multimeter.
TAIL LAMP ASSY.

(a) Remove two screws and remove tail lamp cover.
(b) The reflector is to be taken out after Fig. 220 - Ignition switch on lock body
disconnecting the electric cable terminals.
(c) Separate bulbs for tail lamp and brake light are
provided.
BLINKER LAMPS
(a) Remove 2 screws of the blinker lamp cover.
(b) The reflector will come out from the body.
(c) Cable terminals can be taken out for checking
and rectifying the problem, if any.
Note : Fig. 221 - Tail lamp assembly

Terminal contacts should be firm to avoid loose
contact and bulb fuse problem.
Fig. 222 - Blinker lamp
Fig. 223 - Bulb
108
O P E R AT I O N S A N D C H E C K S B E F O R E Care of vehicle when not in use for long periods:
OPERATING
If the vehicle is not going to be used for more than
two months then it should be stored properly as
AFTER COMPLETION OF OVERHAULING OF THE per the following instructions:
ENGINE OR ANY UNIT OF VEHICLE, THE
(a) Syphon out the petrol from the fuel tank with the
FOLLOWING OPERATION SHOULD BE CARRIED
help of a pipe.
OUT BEFORE CONSIGNING THE VEHICLE TO
THE OWNER: (b) Start the engine for some time and exhaust the
petrol in the carburettor.
1. Check nuts and bolts for tightness, particularly
the wheel and brake drum securing nuts. (c) Remove the spark plug and put a few drops of 2T
oil in the spark plug hole. Press the kick lever 4-5
2. Top up oil in the gear box; with the vehicle times and then refix the spark plug.
standing in a vertical position. The oil should be
(d) Clean the vehicle thoroughly and apply antirust
levelled with the opposite filler hole.
grease on all the unpainted metallic parts.
3. Check efficiency of dampers.
(e) For auto start models, remove battery by
4. Check for absence of oil and fuel losses. following the guidelines given on page 24.
5. Check tyre pressure (see specifications on (f) Raise the wheels off from the ground by placing
page 7). wooden planks and deflate the tyres so that they
6. Check efficiency of electrical equipment. do not touch the floor.
7. Check the carburation. (g) Cover the scooter.
8. Check brake efficiency and brake fluid level.

9. Adjust clutch and gear change controls.
10. Check steering by riding without holiding the
handle.
11. Check functionality of steering lock. Under no
conditions the said device should be oiled.
12. Cleaning down vehicle :
(a) For external engine surfaces use paraffin.
(b) For the paintwork use water and chamois leather.
(c) When cleaning the headlight reflector use a
very soft feather (avoid finger contact).
109
FAULT FINDING AND REMEDIES
FAULT FINDING REMEDIES NOTE

ENGINE
Lack of power
Lack of compression
Leakage
Loosening of screws and nuts Tighten nuts and bolts of the
of the different machine engine interested parts
members. (fig.224) carburettor, cylinder
head, silencer coupling at the
torques carried out on the
table of page 85.
Hard starting Fig. 224

Carburettor jets and fuel cock Remove, wash in petrol and
clogged or dirty blow dry. Engine unit
Engine flooding Close the fuel tap, open
completelyThrottle twist grip
and kick over the engine
several times until it starts.
If the engine does not start,
attempt “push starting” or
remove the sparkplug, clean or
replace it; before reassembling
the spark plug, kick over the
engine in order to ejecte
excess fuel.
Tendency of the engine to

stop when the throttle is
full open
Jet dirty, weak mixture Clean the jet in net gasoline
(petrol) and blow dry.
Clean the carburettor (if dirty)
in net gasoline (petrol) and
blow dry. Replace gaskets If
damaged.
Exhaust noise grows weak

Excess of carbon on cylinder Decoke (see fig. 225) Fig. 225
ports Silencer clogged De-coke.Clean using a hooked Cylinder head-piston
wire or by blowing through
compressed air from the inlet
end.
Irregular engine exhaust :

crocklings when the vehicle
is running up hill or picking-up
Air filter dirty Clean or replace
Defective spark plug Decoke, adjust the electrodes
gap (see fig. 226) or replace
by using recommended spark
plug on page 6.
Fig. 226
Spark plug
110
N.B. Note that many troubles

to the engine are provoked by
the use of a unsuitable spark
plug or mixture composed with
a improper oil.
CARBURETTOR
Flooded for impurities in the fuel Dismantle and clean in pure
(petrol) gasoline; and blow dry
with air jet.
High fuel consumption
Air filter clogged or dirty Clean in pure gasoline (petrol)
and blow dry with air jet.
Starter control (Choke) set in

closed position or locked Free off starter device
(Choke) lever and lubricate.
Brakes
Poor braking Brakes adjusting is carried out
by means of adjusting screw
indicated by arrows in
fig. 227.
Keep in mind that when the
brake lever or pedal are in
their resting position the
wheel should rotate freely.
Front Disc brake not required Disc brake :Ensure correct
any adjustments. level of brake fluid in master
cylinder.
If with the common adjustings
on the transmissions it is not
possible to eliminate
the eventual inconvenients,
check the jaws possible to
eliminate the eventual
inconvenients, check the jaws
and the drums. In case of
excessive wears or scratches
replace.If brake jaws are oil Fig. 227
imbued, for example for oil Rear brake adjust.
seal leaks, before replacing
them, try to make them
efficient by washing in N.B. - The braking action should
gasoline (petrol), then let air dry. begin immediately on operating
the respective control. For Disc
brake do not operate front brake
Cables rusted in their sheaths Lubricate or if necessary lever while front wheel is taken
replace. out. Ensure proper seating of steel
Disc between brake pads while
refitting of wheel.
111
Suspensions and steering

controls
Steering proves hard Check upper ring nut tightening :
if after this adjustment the
steering rotation is still
irregular,check ball races and
replace them if pitted.
Excessive play If front suspension is noisy,
check what follows and replace
possible damaged parts :
1) Front damper efficiency.
2) Wheel hub nut locking
3) Ball bearing and d.c. roller
bearings conditions (see on
this subject on page 98 front
suspension overhauling).
Analogously act for rear
suspension.
CLUTCH
Slipping or fierce action Check springs, plates and oil
level in gear box.
The handlebars lever should
have 2 mm. play as in.
fig.228 before acting on the
lever to the transmission end.
Lack of the mentioned play can
be the cause of clutch damages.
The adjusting is carried out
by acting on adjuster “A” in
order to pull out or release
transmission cable.
Fig. 228
Clutch adjustment.
Note :
112
SUITABLE RECOMMENDATIONS
Do's Don'ts
Always use Geniune spare parts. Don't use non-genuine spare parts.
ENGINE GROUP
A. Air filter (outer)
1. Ensure proper fitment and sealing of air —

cleaner on the carburettor.
2. Ensure no entry of air & dust through the —

beading of air cleaner cover. If required,
replace the beading.
3. Clean the air cleaner with clean fuel. Follow —

service manual instructions.
B. Carburettor
1. Ensure proper mounting of air cleaner box. Don't use dirty hands, dirty cleaning liquid
or linen while servicing the carburettor.
2. Ensure proper fitment of carburettor. Don't over tight jets as this will lead to
seat deformation.
Don't over tight float cup cover screw and
3. Clean the jets by compressed air or by a
banjo bolt. This may spoil the threads of
hair of the brush
carburettor body which can result into
replacement of carburettor.
4.Ensure proper fitment of Reed valve and Don't clean the jets by steel wire as the
gaskets. hole may be enlarged.
C. 'AOM' Device —
1. Check air bubbles in the oil pipe. If found,
remove them by flowing down oil from pipe
connected to the pump.
2. Use only geniune carburettor gaskets.
D. Gear
1. Ensure proper positioning of speed gears Don't assemble any speed gear in opposite
on the drive shaft. Standard washers should direction to avoid improper shifting.
be placed below the first gear and suitable
shims should be used after the fourth gear.
113
Do's Don'ts
2. While assembling the gear cross on the —

drive shaft, make sure that the movement
of gear cross inside the speed gear is
smooth. The gears should be free in nuetral
position.
3. Oil should be used in gear box strictly as —

per the recommended grade and quantity.
4. Flush gear box with fresh oil for first 500 —

kms. or 1st service and at every replacement.
E. Clutch
1. Check movement of clutch plates insi de Don't use screw driver or hammer on clutch
the clutch bell. It should be free. case.
2. Check for excessive play in bush and Don't use excessive force (using hammer)
engine gear. on clutch case outer in order to protect
lock seating.
3. Check if pressure plate seating is free and
full inside the clutch. Don't use excessive force for bending lock
washer.
4. Clutch adjustment should be made in such
a way that the kick is free and the vehicle —
does not move in first gear when the clutch
lever is fully pressed. Ensure a free play
of 2 mm on the lever with the sleeve.
5. Always use the recommended tools.

—
6. Always replace the lock & spacer washer
for the clutch unit whenever the unit is re- —
fitted.
7. Soak the cork faced plates in oil before —

assembly.
114
Do's Don'ts
G. Engine
— Don’t over tight or wrong thread the spark

plug. This will avoid thread damages in
aluminium cylinder head.
— Don't try to remove cylinder head when

engine is hot.
— Don't attempt to dismantle crank shaft assembly

for repairs.
— Don't act on crank shaft for easing the

rotation during assembly of crank cases.
115

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SERVICE STATION MANUAL

This manual will provide you with :

l General instructions on vehicle maintenance.

l General instructions for eliminating faults and irregularities.

l Illustration and instructions for dismantling, overhauling and reassembly.

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

ELECTRICAL AND ELECTRONICS 10

AIR - FUEL SYSTEM 29

CARE AND MAINTENANCE 45

RECOMMENDED OILS AND LUBRICANTS 63

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOLS 65

DISMANTLING - OVERHAULING - REASSEMBLY 71

ASSEMBLY CLEARANCES, TOLERANCES & LIMITS 83

IMPORTANT TIGHTENING TORQUES 85

ENGINE FOUNDATION BUFFERS & TUBE 92

FAULT FINDING AND REMEDIES 110

SUITABLE RECOMENDATIONS 112

DESCRIPTION PAGE NO.

The vehicle is identified by two numbers: One

The engine number is stamped on the crankcase

Each Stella scooter comes with one set of duplicate

ENGINE Single cylinder, two stroke, forced air cooled with

Fuel tank capacity 2.11 gallon (inclusive of 0.26 gallon in reserve)

Oil tank capacity 0.26 gallon

CARBURETTOR SPACO - 20 / 20D, Downdraft, 20 mm venturi

SPARK PLUG RN9YC - Champion,

Spark plug gap 0.7 ~ 0.8 mm

CLUTCH Multiplate, oil bath type.

TRANSMISSION 4 speed constant mesh

Over all gear ratio

CHASSIS Pressed steel sheet, monocoque structure.

MAXIMUM SPEED 55 mph in 4th Gear

Scooter mechanics are professionally trained to follow the safe working

ELECTRONIC IGNITION SYSTEM 12

Electronic ignition units test 14

ELECTRONIC LIGHTING SYSTEM 17

Testing of fly-wheel magneto (A.C.Section) 17

Flasher unit and buzzer 19

TESTING OF ELECTRICAL & ELECTRONIC PARTS 20

SELF STARTER SYSTEM 21

ENGINE KILL SWITCH

Fig.5 - Schematic Diagram

C.D.I. (Capacitor Discharge Ignition) :

High Tension coil :

Test : For testing defective H.T. coil, connect the

Check resistance at various points :

Primary coil resistance : 0.4 to 0.5 W

Secondary coil resistance : 3.30 to 3.5 K W

Suppressor cap resistance : 5K + 1.25 K W

It is a coil wounded on a laminated core and

(i) Checking the ohmic value across Green

(ii) Connecting a Neon bulb of 220 V (in series with

CHARGING COIL TESTING

It generates a signal impulse which is directed at

1. Checking the ohmic value across the Red and

2. Connecting L.E.D. of 1.5 volt across Red and