Nicolas Palazzi’s Post

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Artisanal Spirits Advocate, US Importer, NY Wholesaler, Brand Creator, PM Spirits

Below is one of the many bits of knowledge Todd Leopold (OG US craft distiller - Leopold Brothers -, one of the most knowledgeable people I got to meet) dropped on American whisky and the history of barrel entry proof this week: Until 1962, the standard entry proof for American whiskey was 50%. Entry proof significantly impacts the whiskey's final character & quality. The historical context provided by studies like the Crampton and Tolman survey illustrates the meticulous approach to understanding whiskey production. This study, surveying 31 distilleries, analyzed variables like mash bill, warehouse conditions, and aging samples over eight years. It established that the standard entry proof was around 100 proof, with minor variations. Subsequent studies during Prohibition confirmed these findings, underscoring consistency in production practices despite economic pressures. It showed that the proof of whiskey in Kentucky warehouses typically increased from 100 to about 107 proof over eight years. This rise in proof requires minimal dilution with water to achieve bottling strength of 50% (think BIB), preserving the complex flavors and aromas developed during aging while not impacting the color too negatively. In contrast, starting with a higher entry proof, such as 62.5%, results in a more concentrated spirit that can climb into the high 60s or even 70s abv. Diluting this high-proof whiskey to bottling strength necessitates significant water which could be problematic from a color standpoint (not dark "enough"). A lower entry proof also affects the extraction of wood compounds from the barrel. Whiskey aged at higher proofs tends to pull out more aggressive tannins and wood flavors, which can overpower subtler notes and lead to a harsher taste. Conversely, whiskey aged at the traditional 50% entry proof extracts fewer of these intense compounds, resulting in potentially a rounder, more balanced spirit. In the early 1960s, lobbying efforts increased the maximum legal entry proof from 55% to 62.5%: before this change, few distillers used the 55% maximum, adhering to lower proofs instead. These regulatory shifts were largely economic. Higher entry proofs allowed distilleries to produce more whiskey with fewer barrels, reducing storage and production costs. This change was driven by financial imperatives during a time when many distilleries struggled to stay operational, not by quality considerations. Esterification, the chemical reaction forming esters that contribute to fruity and floral notes in whiskey, is another critical factor in aging. Lower alcohol content during aging facilitates greater oxygen absorption, enhancing esterification reactions. Experimental data, though not extensive, suggests that whiskey aged at lower entry proofs (like 50%) tends to develop higher ester levels compared to those aged at higher proofs. This balance between organic acids and esters is crucial during the initial four years of aging, signifying maturity.

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Blair Woodall

Spirits Pro elevating distilleries/brands to be exceptional, professional, and intentional. Open for strategy/planning, audits, ops/finance, staff training, and event speaking/teaching. Proud to be a Tall Poppy.

7mo

Thank you for sharing all this! And what a great opportunity to learn from Todd Leopold!

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