Elliot Scherr

RIFM has published over 2,000 Peer-review safety assesments! At RIFM's 58th Annual meeting held in September 2024, president Anne Marie Api, Ph.D., highlighted the achievement, “RIFM has published thousands of peer-reviewed datasheets, group summaries, evaluations, and research papers addressing the safe use of scent-producing ingredients since the early 1970s. In the 21st century, we pivoted to research and next-generation risk assessments (NGRAs) focused on animal-free science, strategically using new approach methodologies (NAMs) to save well over half a million animals.” #beautyindustrynews #cosmeticscience #NAMs #NGRAs #fragrance #cosmeticchemistry #cosmeticsafety #cosmeticregulations

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Curious about the the field of cosmetic chemistry? Here's a great article that describes the science behind the products you use every day. Finding great beauty in cosmetic chemistry - Nature Reviews Chemistry #cosmeticchemist #cosemticscience #skincare

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🎨 Color certification is a unique process that exists only in the United States, it provides confidence in the purity and safety of specific colorants (FD&C, D&C, D&C Ext. colors) used in color cosmetics which often far exceed the use level in other applications like food and beverage. 💵 Color certification is industry supported meaning color manufacturers pay a small fee, considering the total cost of the colorants themselves to the industry, which is currently 35 cents per lb of color to be certified. The FDA is currently requesting an increase - of 10 cents per lb - for the first time in nearly 20 years. ⚠️ If you don't think this is already a reasonable request given obvious increases in operational costs in the past two decades, the FDA has also identified that one third of the equipment used in certification is near the end of its useful life. Obsolete and substandard equipment can lead to issues revolving around accuracy, precision and throughput capacity. This important facet of consumer safety is too important to short change. I'll post a link to the FDA's proposed rule where in the comments. FDA Reopens Comment Period on Increased Color Additive Certification Fees #colorexpert #cosmeticscience #colorcosmetics #cosmeticregulations #cosmeticsafety #cosmeticchemist https://buff.ly/3WiMziB.

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Analysis Shows Flushable Wipes Not Responsible for Clogs. The percentage of items which should not be flushed was surprising... Paper products represented the lion’s share of the 1745 items collected in the study, 53%, while feminine hygiene items represented 7%. #beautyindustrynews #businessofbeauty #wipes #personalcareproducts https://buff.ly/49ZQ94q.

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Good quality assurance and quality control procedures would have prevented these very serious "mixups" from ever leaving the manufacturing facility. This really underscores the importance of GMPs in the cosmetic industry. "Batches of the Lala Retro Whipped Cream, meanwhile, do not contain preservatives, which Drunk Elephant said may allow for microbial growth" #beautyindustrynews #businessofbeauty #cosmeticregulations #qualitycontrol #qualityassurance #cosmeticsafety #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscience #cosmeticindustry

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Drug/Cosmetic Uncertainty Clouds CIR Panel Review Of Prostaglandin Analogs Used in Eyelash and Brow Growth Products Cosmetic Ingredient Review’s independent expert panel needs more data to assess the safety of prostaglandin analogs, but ultimately may pass review back to the US Food and Drug Administration due to concerns that the substances impact the structure and function of the body and thus are unapproved drugs with potentially serious side effects. #cosmeticscience #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticregulations #drugregulations #cosmeticsafety https://buff.ly/3RrQu9x

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Formulators, its time to hone your cost savings skills... 📈 When it comes to the cosmetic industry, increased tariffs on imports from China will have certainly have impacts on US cosmetic producers and those costs mostly will be passed to US beauty consumers. 💰 While a specific cosmetic ingredient or packaging component may or may not come directly from China, increased tariffs will impact overall costs as China is a major exporter basic chemicals. In 2022, China accounted for 44 percent of global chemical production. ⚗️ "Basic chemicals" are fundamental substances used as starting materials to produce a wide range of other chemicals, essentially acting as building blocks in the chemical manufacturing process. Examples include basic organic chemicals used to synthesize cosmetic ingredients as well as polypropylene and aluminum for packaging. #beautyindustrynews #businessofbeauty https://buff.ly/3OBL4XO

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💄 👩‍🔬 The US FDA's Report on the Certification of Color Additives for Q3 2024 has posted. I have been tracking Red Lake data back to 2012 in spreadsheet. Specifically focusing on Red 6 and 7 Lakes, which are leading indicators for lip color products. Things are not looking so hot. We'll see what Q4 numbers say in October, but after a rise post-pandemic it looks like the final numbers will be below 2022 and the far below the 3-4 years preceding the pandemic. #beautyindustrynews #cosmeticchemist #colorcosmetics #lipstickindex #makeup #businessofbeauty

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Water quality will always be essential to product safety. Here's a great article that delves into the topic. Microbiological Requirements for Water used in Cosmetics Production | Part 1: Purity requirements and water system. #cosmeticscience #cosmeticmicrobiology #cosmeticssafety #planthygiene

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👩‍🔬Check out my profile for the American Chemical Society's Careers & the Chemical Sciences page! I shared my story of becoming a cosmetic chemist and what I love about the work that I do. ACS career profiles highlights industry professionals and their career journey to help young scientists see all the different ways they can utilize their chemistry degrees in the future. Please share with anyone you know who is interested in becoming a cosmetic chemist! Kelly Dobos, MS.C - American Chemical Society #cosmeticchemist #cosmeticscience #makeup #skincare #beautyindustrynews #cosmeticindustry #cosmeticsciencecareers

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Sustainable silicone alternatives. There are a lot of options out there, but these are special. Attend this webinar to find out why! Distributed in the Nordics and Baltics by Nordmann Nordic. #Nordmann Nordic #Cosmetics #Sustainable #P2Science #Beauty #PersonalCare #SkinCare #HairCare

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Microscopy has always been a helpful tool for informing formulation choices. In comparing the left and right sides of the image, we see how diffusing light (left) masks discolorations while moisturizing (right) accentuates them. As prototypes evolve to product, these visual comparisons can help drive decisions that keep developments on track.

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Fees Increased on U.S. FDA Color Additive Certification; Here's What You'll Pay Here's some coverage of US FDA's color additive certification fee increase with a little commentary on the importance of the certification process for cosmetic applications. "The color certification process for synthetic organic colorants is an important aspect of color additive regulations that is unique to the United States," notes industry expert Kelly Dobos. "It provides added confidence in the purity and safety of these ingredients. This is especially important in makeup and other color cosmetic products, where the concentration of these materials often far exceeds that used in other applications like foods and beverages." #cosmeticscience #cosmeticchemist #coloradditives #cosmeticregulations #colorexpert #cosmeticsafety #colorcosmetics #makeup

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Tranexamic acid (TXA) is gaining significant traction in the skincare industry for its potent ability to reduce hyperpigmentation, particularly in challenging conditions like melasma. As cosmetic chemists and skincare formulators, understanding the science behind TXA's effectiveness can provide valuable insights for developing innovative products. TXA operates through multiple mechanisms to decrease melanin production and distribution. One of its primary actions is inhibiting the conversion of plasminogen to plasmin. This process is crucial because plasmin can drive inflammation and stimulate melanogenesis. By blocking this conversion, TXA reduces the production of inflammatory mediators, subsequently lowering melanin synthesis. Studies have consistently shown that inhibiting plasmin activity results in reduced melanin production. Another notable mechanism is TXA's ability to reduce vascularity in the skin. Hyperpigmented areas typically exhibit increased blood vessel formation, supplying nutrients that melanocytes need for melanin production. TXA effectively diminishes these blood vessels, thereby limiting the supply of nutrients and reducing melanin synthesis. Research has demonstrated significant reductions in dermal blood vessels with TXA application. TXA also directly inhibits tyrosinase, a critical enzyme in melanin synthesis. By lowering tyrosinase activity, TXA reduces melanin production at its source. This direct action on the enzyme makes TXA an exceptionally effective ingredient in treating hyperpigmentation. Additionally, TXA disrupts the interaction between keratinocytes and melanocytes, reducing melanin transfer and further lightening hyperpigmented areas. Studies have shown that TXA decreases the expression of endothelin-1, a molecule that facilitates this interaction, thus contributing to its depigmenting effect. For cosmetic chemists and skincare formulators, TXA represents a robust, multi-faceted approach to reducing melanin production. Its integration into skincare formulations can offer effective solutions for hyperpigmentation, making it a valuable addition to your product line. Ready to explore how tranexamic acid can elevate your skincare formulations? Let’s connect and discuss the possibilities. #SkincareInnovation #CosmeticChemistry #TranexamicAcid #HyperpigmentationSolution #MelasmaTreatment #SkincareScience

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A recent US FDA warning letter was sent to a manufacturer who prepares promotional products that include hand sanitizers and SPF lip balms. While they were refilling bulk prepared elsewhere (and sometimes adding ingredients per the letter), they are still responsible for complying with regulations in include GMPs. A reminder that when distributing promotional items, check that your manufacturer is complaint! And DYK FDA warning letters are publicly available. If you want to check your CMO to see if they have received a warning letter just do a quick google search for the name of the manufacturer and the words "FDA warning letter." I think this is also an important step to take if you are developing a new brand and vetting possible manufacturers as GMPs for cosmetics will be coming for cosmetics soon. #beautyindustrynews #FDAWarningLetter #businessofbeauty #cosmeticregulations #cosmeticscience #cosmeticchemist

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Skin Brightening Ingredients: A Discussion Among Experts Here's a breakdown of the key points: **Ingredients Discussed:** Exfoliants (AHAs & BHAs): Perry Sherif found salicylic acid (BHA) effective for cleansing pores, reducing oil, and minimizing acne. However, Nehal Elkashef recommends Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs) like gluconolactone and lactobionic acid for gentler exfoliation, especially for sensitive skin. Lactic acid (AHA) is another option for sensitive skin but citric acid (AHA) is mainly for PH. * **Whitening Ingredients:** Kojic Acid and Tranexamic Acid: Perry EG found Kojic Acid effective, Eptehal Nassar, MSc from L'Oréal laid stress on Tanexmic Acid based upon research data. for oral use in brightening Himasha Sasanthika shared its deep delivery system. Vitamin C: A classic brightening ingredient, but Eptehal Nassar, MSc cautions against mixing it with acids as it can be destabilized. Kyrillos Abouda suggests using stable Vitamin C derivatives like Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP) or Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) for sensitive skin. Arbutin: Not specifically mentioned but Raghad Yasin Jordon includes it as a good ingredient for consistent brightening. **Combination Products:** Mudasar Rashid asks about the feasibility of a single cream with multiple functions (brightening, exfoliation, acne control, anti-pigmentation). While Nehal Elkashef says it's possible, achieving high effectiveness with all functions in one product can be challenging. Dr. Kyrillos emphasizes the importance of natural or gentle ingredients for such a product. **Natural vs. Synthetic:** Dr. Kyrillos Abouda Formulation Trainer acknowledges the growing demand for natural ingredients. However, he highlights that some natural ingredients might not be as effective as synthetic ones. **Skin Sensitivity:** Considering skin sensitivity when choosing ingredients. Mandelic acid (AHA) is suggested by Shimaa Sabry as a gentle option for whitening with Vitamin C, but Dr. Kyrillos Abouda reminds us to consider potential irritation. **Unethical Practices:** I bring up the issue of mercury and hydroquinone in some skin lightening products, highlighting their dangers. Dr. Yara Othman confirms such products are not therapeutic and Muhammad Furqan sheds light on the problem of unregistered Osama Tarek highlighted effectiveness of Sepiwhite by SEPPIC 5 days challenge & reality Raghad Yasin Jordon criticizes the unrealistic "5-day skin whitening challenge" claims by some brands. She clarifies that significant brightening or lightening takes consistent use (weeks to months) with sun protection. **Additional Notes:** Yara Othman suggests alternatives to silicones for a more eco-friendly approach. * A discussion arises about suppliers for ingredients in Egypt, with Dr. Yara Othman recommended Azelis , Cana chemicals, and Extreme Blue for their quality supplies. In this conversation skincare experts explore various aspects of skin brightening ingredients..

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💡 Inventory management of raw materials and consumables is incredibly important in cosmetic chemistry labs and more easily managed when the right processes and procedures are in place. Ignoring this aspect of lab management can lead to costly consequences. #cosmeticscience #cosmeticchemist #labmatters #labmanagement #labsafety lThe Ripple Effect of Poor Lab Inventory Management https://buff.ly/3Q3o98M.

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Another regulatory update - California Safe Cosmetics Program updated the list of reportable chemicals for products sold in California of  reportable ingredients. The Reportable Ingredients List (RIL) contains updated chemicals listings from the 23 source authoritative lists citied in the California Safe Cosmetics Act and Cosmetic Fragrance and Flavor Ingredient Right to Know Act of 2020. This is a downloadable excel and the fourth tab shows you the summary of updates. Scroll down to the CSCP Reportable Ingredients List at the link below. Feel free to message me if you have questions!

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