Lonely Planet Atlantic Canada 7

ATLANTIC CANADA

THE JOURNEY BEGINS HERE

Atlantic Canada is my backyard, my playground, my home. The connection is more than family, more than familiarity. It has as much to do with the sheer variety of landscape, heritage and experience around me. One morning I might be eye to eye with the world’s largest mammals on a whale-watching tour, and in the afternoon I can be on a petroglyph tour with an Indigenous guide. That evening I might be sipping the world’s best sparkling wine in the vineyard that grew the grapes. The thread that ties such disparate experiences together is the reliable affability of the people. Sure, every destination claims its people are the friendliest, but in Atlantic Canada, hospitality and friendliness are a way of life. I know because warmly welcoming visitors is in my blood, and it’s what I’m hoping to achieve in these pages.

Sable Island National Park Reserve | Jewelsy/Getty Images ©

Darcy Rhyno

darcyrhyno.com

Darcy started as a fiction writer, so his travel work is founded in storytelling.

My favorite experience is a day trip to Sable Island reserve, the 40km sandbar inhabited only by 500 wild horses, 400,000 seals and a scientist or two – it’s like a mid-Atlantic safari.

WHO GOES WHERE

Our writers choose the places that, for them, define Atlantic Canada.

Summit Art Creations/shutterstock ©

My summer place on Fogo Island is on an island off an island. Newfoundland and Labrador are home to three of my favorite things: puffins (pictured), icebergs and whales. But what stands out is just how much people love to chat. You really do have to factor that into your plans for the day.

Jennifer Bain

@thesaucylady

Jennifer is a journalist and author who travels the world in search of quirk.

WendyCotie/shutterstockk ©

It’s a lovely summer day in Moncton. After a short drive, we arrive at a favorite beach – Parlee (pictured) or Aboiteau – for a picnic dinner and sunset stroll. Chairs unfolded beneath a pink-tinged sky, we settle in and crack open the cooler. Life is good.

Cathy Donaldson

@cathykdonaldson

Cathy has been exploring the world as a travel writer based in New Brunswick for more than two decades.

David Leduc/Stockimo/Alamy Stock Photo ©

I fell in love with Prince Edward Island when I spent five days on the Island Walk. While I walked only 120km of the 700km route, my wanderings took me along sandy beaches, above red cliffs and through fields of wildflowers, with plenty of seafood chowder, mussels and locally caught lobster to fuel my days.

Carolyn Heller

@CarolynBHeller

Based in Vancouver, Carolyn writes about culture, food and offbeat adventures.

GEOLOGICAL WONDERS

Atlantic Canada is a geological marvel showcasing a rich history etched along its dramatic coastline. Its unique past unfolds in striking contrasts from rugged highlands to lush valleys, and from tidal zones where you can walk on the ocean floor to the Tablelands, where you can stroll exposed parts of the Earth’s mantle. The region is packed with an intriguing tapestry of rock and terrain to explore as well as significant collections of fossils.

Hopewell Rocks Provincial Park, Bay of Fundy | Vintagepix/shutterstock ©

Rock Medley

There's amazing diversity in rock across the region. See ancient volcanic formations in Newfoundland and Labrador, and sedimentary layers in the Bay of Fundy's cliffs.

Michael Closson/shutterstock ©

Glacial Impact

During the last ice age, glaciers shaped the landscape of Atlantic Canada, carving its distinctive fjords and valleys and shaping the coastline in places like Gros Morne National Park (pictured).

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Canadian Appalachians

Much of Atlantic Canada is within the Canadian Appalachian Region, a continuation of the Appalachian Mountains that stretch through the eastern United States.

BEST GEOLOGICAL WONDERS

Walk the surreal orange landscape of the 1 Tablelands in Newfoundland, a rare exposed part of the Earth’s mantle.

Visit the 2 Joggins Fossil Centre in Nova Scotia, a Unesco World Heritage Site and home of the most complete fossil record of the Coal Age.

Check out the 3 Bay of Fundy in New Brunswick or Nova Scotia, famous for having the highest tides in the world.

Learn about Prince Edward Island’s (PEI) geological evolution on an entertaining beach walk with 4 Prehistoric Island Tours.

Head to New Brunswick's 5 Stonehammer Geopark, home to more than 60 significant geological and fossil locales.

SCENIC ROADS & HIGHWAYS

Prepare for a visual feast. Atlantic Canada’s highways and roads lead visitors on inspiring journeys, rolling through picturesque landscapes, along coastal cliffs and sandy shores, past quaint fishing villages, through lush valleys and into vibrant cities and towns. Even if you’ve traveled here before, you’ll find your breath taken away again as you ascend mountains and stop at lookoffs that reveal panoramic vistas of the expansive Atlantic. Memories will be etched forever.

Cabot Trail | Rob Crandall/shutterstock ©

Catch a Whale

While driving in the region, you might spot whales breaching in the Bay of Fundy, or whales, dolphins or porpoises at the Canso Causeway.

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Farm-to-road Flavors

Carry cash for roadside stands offering produce such as berries and veggies. No staff? Follow the honor system: choose your product, leave payment in the jar.

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Animal Alert

Drive with care, as this region is home to moose, deer, bears and other critters. Wear a seat belt. Avoid driving at night if possible.

BEST DRIVING EXPERIENCES

Drive Newfoundland's 1 Viking Trail for Norse history, icebergs, geological and natural wonders, and World Heritage Sites.

Follow Nova Scotia’s spectacular 2 Cabot Trail along undulating coastline, up mountains and into communities rich in history and culture.

Discover 11,000 years of human history and 300 million years of natural history in Nova Scotia's 3 Cliffs of Fundy Unesco Geopark.

Meander along the 4 Fundy Trail Parkway in New Brunswick, a stunning 30km route that hugs the Bay of Fundy.

Sample PEI potatoes, listen to the wind and sleep in a lighthouse along the 5 North Cape Coastal Drive.

SEASIDE TOWNS

Visitors can find a bounty of charming seaside towns and villages across the Atlantic region. Each holds stories of seafaring pasts and offers a warm welcome. Accommodations in these coastal gems range from quiet inns to luxe hotels bursting with amenities. Dining options can also vary from homey diners to upscale restaurants. Take a walk in the salty air, explore local history, crack open a lobster, decompress. Embrace the soothing rhythm of coastal life.

Lunenburg | Brendan Riley/shutterstock ©

Shoot the Breeze

Many seaside towns and villages have wharves where fishers may be found. Don’t hesitate to ask them about their trade. They’re generally happy to chat.

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Attend a Festival

When planning your visit to a town, check local calendars for upcoming festivals – a fun way to glimpse local life, music, heritage and food.

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Embrace the Weather

Pack layers for unpredictable weather in coastal towns and villages. Even in summer, it can be breezy and cool. Bring decent footwear for exploring.

BEST SEASIDE-TOWN EXPERIENCES

Take in 1 Twillingate, at the heart of Iceberg Alley in Newfoundland, for the chance to see glacial giants and migrating whales.

Venture to Nova Scotia's Unesco-listed 2 Lunenburg, renowned for its colorful architecture, shipbuilding heritage and vibrant seafaring culture.

Set course for 3 Saint Andrews, a charming New Brunswick town with a rich history, lush gardens and whale-watching tours.

Eat your way through PEI's 4 Victoria-by-the-Sea, sampling freshly shucked oysters and warm lobster rolls.

Make 5 Fundy-St Martins your New Brunswick base for seaside rejuvenation or a launchpad to sea-cave adventures or scenic motoring on the Fundy Trail Parkway.

GO OFF-GRID

You can truly make the great escape in Atlantic Canada. Find peace off-grid amid pristine landscapes. Unplug along rugged coastlines, hike ancient forests and paddle tranquil waters. Swap your computer screen for a star-filled sky. Discover hidden coves, picnic on secluded shores, do yoga on the beach. Whatever path or activity your choose, look forward to restoring your spirit, mind and body. And if you want to connect with others, local hospitality is never far away.

Nature Space Resort & Retreat Centre | NatureSpaceResort_Ashley MacDonald ©

Sustainable Stays

Consider backcountry camping or staying at eco-friendly lodges that prioritize sustainable practices. Immerse yourself in nature, with minimal impact. Leave no trace.

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Responsible Hiking

Particularly in protected areas, stay on marked paths to minimize your impact on fragile ecosystems. Straying off trails can lead to erosion and disrupt habitats.

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When to Go

The best time for off-grid camping or hiking is May to September. The weather is warmer and there are longer daylight hours.

BEST OFF-GRID EXPERIENCES

Take a ferry to 1 Miquelon, the less-traveled island that’s part of St-Pierre and Miquelon, off Newfoundland, for a day's hiking.

Visit Nova Scotia's 2 Cape Chignecto Provincial Park, a premier wilderness experience with backcountry camping and Bay of Fundy views.

Hike and camp in the Appalachians, and do some stargazing, at New Brunswick's 3 Mt Carleton Provincial Park, a designated dark-sky preserve.

Make tracks for 4 Kouchibouguac or 4 Fundy National Park in New Brunswick, where you’ll find backcountry campsites and great hikes.

Paddle an ocean lagoon and snuggle into a yurt at PEI's 5 Nature Space Resort.

JUST BEACHY

You’re never too far from an ocean, large lake, bay or strait in Atlantic Canada. That’s good news for many, especially those who love the beach. Some locals take a bracing stroll midwinter or a spring jaunt to build a sandcastle in anticipation of the upcoming season. Visitors and locals alike treasure summer beach days most, to bask in the sun, splash in the waves or take a dip in some of the country’s warmest waters.

New River Beach | Doug McLean/shutterstock ©

Beach Season

The summer beach season runs from about late June to early September. Lifeguard supervision at some beaches begins around July 1 and ends late August.

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Accessible Beaches

Many beaches in Atlantic Canada have accessibility features, such as mats to allow those with mobility issues safe access to the beach and water.

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Water Quality

Check beach signage or local water-quality advisories before swimming. While many beaches are pristine, occasional advisories may be issued due to rainfall or bacterial levels.

BEST BEACH EXPERIENCES

Join the crowds on 1 St Vincent’s Beach in Newfoundland when humpback whales gorge on capelin close to shore.

Go for a dip or enjoy the views at one of New Brunswick’s top beaches, such as 2 Parlee or 2 Aboiteau.

Hike across rugged terrain to the observation deck at Nova Scotia's 3 Kejimkujik National Park Seaside, overlooking vast silver beaches with plentiful seals and seabirds.

Wander trails between the dunes or stroll sandy shores in 4 Prince Edward Island National Park.

Visit New Brunswick's breathtaking 5 New River Beach, great for swimming, building sand sculptures and hiking nearby trails.

FOR THE LOVE OF LIGHTHOUSES

Traditional red-and-white lighthouses are an iconic part of Atlantic Canada’s landscape. These sentinels that guided ships through treacherous waters may no longer be operating or open to the public, but they remain popular among tourists and locals. They're often excellent destinations for hikes, picnics and photography. The federal government has designated many lighthouses under the Heritage Lighthouse Protection Act and transferred them to new owners across Canada. The status recognizes their beauty and historical importance.

Peggy’s Cove | KNIPSDESIGN/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Still Working

While many beacons have been replaced by automated units, 23 staffed lighthouses still operate in Newfoundland and Labrador, and one on New Brunswick's Machias Seal Island.

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Easternmost Beacon

Cape Spear Lighthouse (pictured), the oldest surviving lighthouse in Newfoundland and Labrador, is perched on a cliff overlooking the Atlantic at North America's easternmost point.

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Oldest Light

In 1758, the oldest existing lighthouse in North America was built on Sambro Island at the entrance to Halifax harbor.

BEST LIGHTHOUSE EXPERIENCES

Climb the stone tower of Newfoundland's 1 Cape Bonavista Lighthouse to see a light that was fueled with seal oil in the 1800s.

Admire the red-capped lighthouse at 2 Peggy's Cove, Nova Scotia's best-known beacon, now with an accessible viewing platform.

Check out the whale skeleton, climb the lighthouse tower and walk the coastal trail at 3 Cape Forchu in Nova Scotia.

Take the short trail to 4 Swallowtail Lighthouse, perched at the northern end of New Brunswick's Grand Manan Island and ideal for sunsets.

Clamber to the lookout atop PEI’s oldest lightstation, 5 Point Prim Lighthouse, built in 1845.

ON TAP

While the industry may not be new, craft breweries continue to be extremely popular in Atlantic Canada. Small, independent operations are popping up everywhere, so there's an almost dizzying array of options to try. Sample wheat beers, pale ales, ambers, stouts and many more, some flavored with locally sourced ingredients such as blueberries, spruce and lobster (yes, really). And that packaging! Many canned products in the region feature striking, innovative designs. Cheers!

Tusket Falls Brewing Co, Yarmouth | Tusket Falls Brewing co ©

A Beer for All Tastes

Options range from Tatamagouche's Two Rivers Baltic Porter to Trailway's Pretty Please Sour Ale and everything in between.

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Social Hubs

Craft-beer taprooms are often the gathering places of small towns, villages and even some cities. Their relaxed, friendly vibe is a huge draw.

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Enjoy Responsibly

Indulge in Atlantic Canada’s craft-beer scene safely. Designate a driver who will be sticking to non-alcoholic drinks or use other transportation to get you around.

BEST BREWERY EXPERIENCES

Stop at Newfoundland's 1 Dildo Brewing Co (pictured), in a tiny seaside town that boasts a Hollywood-style sign for its attention-grabbing name.

Relax on the patio at 2 Tusket Falls Brewing Co in Nova Scotia with a pint of crisp Slow by Nature lager.

See why Nova Scotia's 3 Tatamagouche Brewing is a favorite for its ales and IPAs while excelling at session beers and barrel-aged brews.

Enjoy magnificent views at friendly 4 13 Barrels (pictured) in Bathurst, New Brunswick, home of the award-winning Gnarly Light Lager and Tall Tales IPA.

Drink beer and benefit the community at 5 Upstreet, PEI’s first B-Corp certified company.

REGIONS & CITIES

Find the places that tick all your boxes.

ITINERARIES

Nova Scotia Loop

Allow: 7 days Distance: 880km

This itinerary showcases historical and natural diversity within easy reach of Halifax. Explore beautiful Peggy's Cove and the Unesco-listed old town of Lunenburg, wander the picturesque streets of Liverpool, savor the vineyards of Wolfville and end your journey in Joggins, where the relentless tides have carved magnificent cliffs and exposed fascinating fossils.

Peggy’s Cove | MetalPrints/Shutterstock ©

1 Halifax 2 DAYS

Soak up some culture and history on the Halifax waterfront. Visit the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site for panoramic views and more background on the city. Head to a local pub or a fine-dining restaurant before settling in for the night. Venture to Peggy’s Cove the next day to see its famed lighthouse. Plan to spend the night in Lunenburg.

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2 Lunenburg 1 DAY

Take a morning stroll through Lunenburg, a World Heritage Site known for its colorful buildings. Historic tall ship the Bluenose was built in Lunenburg, and you can still see a replica vessel here. Travel to Kejimkujik National Park Seaside Unit for a spectacular hike. The popular Harbour Rocks trail and Port Joli Head trail both feature coastal terrain and impressive views.

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3 Liverpool 1 DAY

Enjoy a sunset dinner at White Point Beach Resort just south of Liverpool, and stay the night at the resort. Wake up to panoramic views of the Atlantic Ocean. After a snack stop in Liverpool, journey to pretty Annapolis Royal, visiting Port Royal, the first permanent settlement in what would become Canada, and Fort Anne National Historic Site.

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4 Wolfville 2 DAYS

After staying overnight in Wolfville, visit the nearby wineries and end the day with a meal at a fine vineyard restaurant. The next day, tour Grand-Pré National Historic Site, a poignant symbol of Acadian heritage that commemorates the forced deportation of Acadian settlers in 1755. Continue to Maitland for a tidal-bore adventure on the Shubenacadie River. End the day in Parrsboro.

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5 Parrsboro 1 DAY

Check out the Cliffs of Fundy Geopark by first exploring the Fundy Geological Museum. Drive through charming Advocate Harbour en route to the Joggins fossil cliffs, a Unesco World Heritage Site and home to the most complete fossil record of the Coal Age. From here you can easily return to Halifax, or continue to Prince Edward Island (PEI) or other destinations.

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ITINERARIES

Cabot & Viking Trails

Allow: 2 weeks Distance: approximately 1500km

Embark on the trip of a lifetime as you combine two of Atlantic Canada's very best drives. Wind along the mesmerizing Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island, taking in its spectacular lookoffs. Cross over to the Viking Trail in Newfoundland and Labrador, where history meets wild landscapes.

1 Halifax 2 DAYS

Begin your journey in Halifax, exploring visitor draws such as the Halifax Citadel National Historic Site and the waterfront boardwalk. Learn about the region's seafaring history at the Maritime Museum of the Atlantic. Visit Peggy's Cove, known for its iconic lighthouse. Enjoy local cuisine at one of the many outstanding restaurants in the area.

2 Baddeck 2 DAYS

Drive from Halifax to Baddeck on Cape Breton Island. Visit the Alexander Graham Bell National Historic Site, stroll the quaint waterfront and dine on some fresh lobster at a local restaurant. The next day, rent a boat in Baddeck Harbour and view landmarks including Kidston Island Lighthouse from the water. For golfers, there’s 18-hole Bell Bay, with views of stunning Bras d'Or Lake.

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3 Ingonish 2 DAYS

Continue on the Cabot Trail to Ingonish. Hike trails with ocean views in Cape Breton Highlands National Park. Splash in the waves at Ingonish Beach and soak in nature's beauty. The next day, hike along the Middle Head trail, play a round of golf at Keltic Lodge – Stanley Thompson's famous 'mountains and oceans' course – or sign up for a whale-watching adventure.

4 Margaree Harbour 2 DAYS

From Ingonish, head to the western side of Cape Breton Island and the Skyline Trail, one of the top hikes on the island. Stop in Chéticamp to learn about the community's rich Acadian culture. Stay in Margaree Harbour, then visit Inverness Beach, golf at Cabot Cape Breton, go tubing on the Margaree River or sample single-malt whiskey at the Glenora Distillery.

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5 Port aux Basques 1 DAY

The traditional Cabot Trail route takes visitors from Margaree Forks through Middle River and back to the Trans-Canada Hwy at Baddeck. Continue to North Sydney for the scenic six- to eight-hour ferry crossing to Port aux Basques in Newfoundland. On the way, enjoy onboard amenities and watch for marine wildlife. Reserve for this trip, and check Marine Atlantic for up-to-date