Antonello Benati

This article present a compelling perspective on the limitations of celebrity-driven marketing within the luxury sector. We are indeed witnessing a notable shift toward “quiet luxury,” where exclusivity, privacy, and refined experiences are increasingly valued over the transient excitement generated by high-profile endorsements. The effectiveness of relying on celebrities has diminished, especially when considering their impact on conversion rates. While such endorsements may create initial buzz, they often do not translate into lasting sales. True luxury consumers, who have the means to invest in high-end products, prioritize authentic experiences and appreciate understated elegance rather than overt displays of wealth. Brands that emphasize their heritage and core values resonate more profoundly with discerning buyers. These consumers seek craftsmanship and personalization, fostering a deeper connection with the brand that transcends mere celebrity associations. As the luxury market continues to evolve, it is essential for brands to adapt their strategies to focus on quality, exclusivity, and tailored experiences. This thoughtful approach will cultivate stronger, more sustainable relationships with clients, steering away from the fleeting allure of celebrity culture.

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Rethinking “Made in Italy”: Beyond the Headlines - The Full Picture Inspired by @Bella Webb’s recent article and the often-overlooked realities of Italian fashion production. While recent headlines focus on labor rights scandals in luxury fashion, they miss crucial aspects of the “Made in Italy” story: Equal parts, Italian, French and Chinese, A symbiotic divide. • Chinese manufacturers have been integral to Italian fashion for 40 years. In 2018, 36% of Italy’s fashion factories were Chinese-owned, contributing ~40% by volume. In Florence, 6 out of 10 factories producing for big Italian luxury brands are Chinese-owned. • Many of these owners are 2nd/3rd generation immigrants, deeply rooted in Italy’s fashion ecosystem. They’ve played a key role in preserving and evolving “Made in Italy” craftsmanship. • Success stories like Fu Fanghui and Xu Yuejuan showcase how Chinese entrepreneurs have innovated within the luxury sector, blending traditional skills with modern efficiency. • The @Carpi Fashion System demonstrates successful integration of diverse manufacturers, driving innovation and quality. While supply chain transparency and workers’ rights remain critical issues, we must also recognize: 1. The vital contribution of Chinese-Italian manufacturers to the industry’s survival and growth 2. The need for inclusive dialogue that involves all stakeholders 3. The potential for cross-cultural collaboration in elevating “Made in Italy” This isn’t just an Italian issue – it’s a complex, global challenge that requires nuanced understanding and collaborative solutions. How can we create a more transparent, ethical, and inclusive “Made in Italy” ecosystem that recognizes all contributors? What can we learn from successful Chinese-Italian collaborations? #MadeInItaly #LuxuryFashion #EthicalProduction #SupplyChainTransparency #CulturalIntegration

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Interesting BOF article on Rimowa, interesting watching and observing their trajectory. "Functional Luxury’: How Rimowa Keeps Growing in a Downturn After quadrupling sales in five years following LVMH’s acquisition, the German luggage maker is seeing continued momentum during rocky times for high-end shopping, including in China. CEO Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert says the brand is focusing on functionality and innovation, including its first push into the handbag category." @simonesterncarbone #simonesterncarbone #BOF "Is @LVMH Playing the Long Game in Functional Luxury? @BoF article on @Rimowa's success got me thinking about LVMH's possible strategy in the functional luxury space. Could the investment in Rimowa and the stake in @Moncler be part of a larger play? Rimowa has been killing it lately: • Sales quadrupled in 5 years 📈 • Double-digit growth even as luxury slows 💼 • Expanding beyond travel into handbags 👜Meanwhile, Moncler continues to dominate in performance outerwear. My speculation: @LVMH might be positioning itself to own functional luxury in both 'vessels' (Rimowa) and 'action' (Moncler). It's not just about looking good anymore. Today's luxury consumer wants products that perform. Rimowa's focus on durability and innovation, and Moncler's technical expertise in outerwear, both tap into this trend.Of course, this is just my theory. But the strength of these brands is undeniable. Rimowa's CEO Hugues Bonnet-Masimbert emphasizes their 'functional luxury' appeal, and it's clearly resonating in the market. What do you think? Is functional luxury the next big thing in high-end retail? #FunctionalLuxury #LuxuryStrategy #LVMH #Rimowa #Moncler"

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As our ambition is to build the infrastructure that scales made-to-order fashion, we’d really love to speak to brands, designers and makers who’s keen to opt into this model yet struggle to. Your insights are valuable to what we are building! Drop me a DM if you want to share your thoughts. Thanks TWENTYFAIRSEVEN for featuring us! Check out other brilliant articles about industry trends. #madetoorder #fashiontrend

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Growing up in eCom in the 2010s, Net-a-Porter, Mr. Porter, and Yoox were the GOATs. Cartier owner, Richemont buys online retailers Net-a-Porter in 2010 for $350m, and Yoox in 2018 for $1.2B. The two fashion retailers are merged to form YNAP. Unfortunately for Richemont, although YNAP puts up $3B in revenue, it lost $1.3B last year. In a wild deal, Richemont is now selling YNAP, and sending with it $600m of cash on the balance sheet, to Mytheresa, another luxury fashion retailer, for 33% of Mytheresa, which had a market cap of $330m last month. This news has sent the Mytheresa market cap 2x to $660m.

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“Nearshoring has remained a top priority for executives since 2016, however the share of imports to Europe and the US from nearshoring countries such as Central America and Mexico has remained flat since 2018 due to ongoing challenges. McKinsey expects these challenges to be addressed in the coming years. For example, both local suppliers and Asian companies with a presence in Central America and Mexico have invested in improving their productivity and building local capacity for making yarns and fabrics.”

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Quiet Luxury: The Future of Fashion? Luxury is changing, and it’s not about loud logos anymore—it’s about craftsmanship, quality, and confidence without shouting. In this CNBC interview, Ermenegildo Zegna breaks down how they’re leading the charge in the “quiet luxury” trend and adapting to the post-COVID shift in how we dress. Think: modern elegance that fits every part of life, from the office to everyday wear. If you’re fascinated by how brands are staying relevant in a world that values subtlety and authenticity, this is worth a watch. What’s your take—can “quiet luxury” reshape the fashion industry? Watch the video here. https://cnb.cx/46LXnHF

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Is luxury pricing itself out of relevance? Prada ‘s CEO Andrea Guerra thinks so. But can the industry find a way back to its roots, or is this the beginning of the end for exclusivity as we know it? The luxury industry is at a critical crossroads. Recently, Andrea Guerra, CEO of Prada, admitted that the unchecked price hikes were a “giant mistake.” https://lnkd.in/d3p-itnX It’s a powerful statement, but numbers speak louder: a saffiano wallet that cost €250 in 2012 is now priced at €780. Nearly three times the price for the same product. Why this relentless chase for higher prices? Enter the “gerontology of luxury” — an aging industry that’s becoming increasingly insular, alienating not only the younger generations but also its loyal customers, who are feeling the strain of these rising costs. Exclusivity only makes sense until it starts to feel like self-sabotage. Looking at China, where luxury has historically found a thriving market, the situation becomes even more complex. Today’s Chinese consumers no longer just seek the logo; they want a meaningful experience, real value, and authentic quality. They’re weary of fashion brands raising prices without delivering anything new. Sales are dropping, and this may be a sign that luxury needs to stop chasing easy margins and rediscover its true essence. In a global context where even iconic brands like Saint Laurent are beginning to reduce prices, the strategy of “higher prices at all costs” appears not only unsustainable but almost like a nail in the coffin. Let’s not forget: the crisis in luxury is not just economic — it’s cultural. We’re witnessing a consumer that’s evolving, while some brands seem incapable of doing the same. The question, then, is: how long can luxury continue to ignore the signals? It’s time for a new model, a return to the values that made this industry great. Sustainable growth and a more authentic connection with the customer — perhaps this is the “luxury” we need to rediscover today. #LuxuryIndustry #PricingStrategy #AndreaGuerra #ChinaMarket #CulturalShift #SustainableGrowth #CustomerConnection #LuxuryCrisis #AuthenticLuxury #Luxury #fashion

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The Italian subsidiary of Dior is under judicial administration – the dark side of the “Made in Italy” luxury brands. Dior is not the first fashion company targeted by the Milan Court for employment issues. In April, judicial administration was ordered for Giorgio Armani Operations Spa, which designs and produces clothing and accessories for the fashion group, following an investigation concerning the alleged exploitation of labour through the use of contracts for the production of illegal factories and the use of illegal and clandestine Chinese labour. In January, the judicial administration measure was taken for Alviero Martini Spa, deemed "incapable of preventing and curbing phenomena of labour exploitation within the production cycle". This is the sad truth about the so-called “Made in Italy “production of a lot of luxury companies. That is why the EU's new directives measures to ensure that textiles are produced circularly, sustainably and socially justly are not made just for fast fashion brands but also for luxury brands that have increased their price since 2019 by up to 33%. I firmly believe that the excuse of the fashion industry's complex supply chain being difficult to control is unacceptable. If the same money allocated for advertising and brand building were used to improve working conditions and reduce the fashion industry's environmental impact, it would greatly benefit the industry. It's crucial to ensure that a fair share of earnings reaches the people at the beginning of the supply chain, allowing for sustainable growth and granting equal rights for both men and women to build their own and their children's futures. As a consultant, I have insight into the manufacturing operations of my clients. Being a woman, I am particularly sensitive to ensuring good working conditions for both genders and providing opportunities for personal growth and development for all individuals.   https://lnkd.in/d8XDUvSE

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Studying abroad in Italy has given me new perspectives on fashion’s potential for positive change. During a recent visit to the OTB headquarters, we had an insightful conversation with Diesel’s Sustainability Ambassador, Andrea Rosso, on the brand’s approach to sustainable development. Here’s are my key takeaways: 👖 Rethinking Denim: Diesel is tackling denim’s environmental impact by cutting down water and chemical use in cotton processing, creating a more responsible model for one of fashion’s most resource-intensive materials. 🌍 100% Renewable Energy by 2025: Diesel has committed to fully renewable energy in direct operations by 2025. Already, their Italian HQ generates 40% of its energy from solar—a bold step toward reducing carbon emissions. ♻️ Zero Waste Goals: Diesel’s plan to eliminate virgin plastic in packaging by 2025 and reduce office waste shows serious commitment to waste reduction, backed by their participation in the Fashion Pact to reach net-zero supply chain emissions by 2050. We even previewed Diesel’s upcoming collection—a perfect blend of bold style and conscious design. Diesel’s approach shows that fashion can drive industry change while staying true to its identity. #fashion #education #sustainability

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Post 4/4 : Fashion’s “Perfect Chaos Storm” - Rebuilding Alignment and Cultural Relevance in Uncertain Times Title: Fashion’s “Perfect Chaos Storm”: Rebuilding Alignment and Cultural Relevance in Uncertain Times #Inflectionpoint #cataclysmicUpheaval #BOF or part #PerceptionGap Luxury today faces a “perfect chaos storm” of economic unpredictability, shifting values, and rising demands for cultural connection. Inspired by Ana Andjelic’s argument for a new cultural strategy and Bain & Co.’s call for performance improvement, this post underscores that bridging the perception gap is essential for navigating these shifts and restoring relevance. #LuxuryMarket #PerceptionGap #ConsumerAlignment Strategies to Reclaim Cultural Influence in a Complex Market 1. Addressing the Perception Gap as a Strategic Imperative: Many brands believe they’re aligned with consumers but may overlook deeper values like sustainability, inclusivity, and authenticity. Bridging this gap isn’t just about meeting changing tastes; it’s about restoring luxury’s soft power, as Andjelic suggests. 2. From Product-Centric to Consumer-Centric Models Luxury brands must pivot to consumer-centric models, using Design Thinking and virtual tools to test and refine concepts with real-time consumer feedback. Andjelic advocates this focus on cultural relevance over competition. 3. Bridging Economic Gaps with Cultural Relevance Brands like Miu Miu and Hermès succeed by blending authenticity with scarcity, delivering culturally meaningful identities. This aligns with Andjelic’s insight that luxury’s new power lies in lifestyle and values, not mere products. 4. Localized and Transparent Supply Chains Regional supply chain transparency can demonstrate commitment to values like fair wages and sustainability, connecting with values-driven consumers. 5. Harnessing the “Silver Spend” and Ethical Consumer Segments The often-overlooked 50+ demographic represents a key growth segment. Brands that connect luxury’s heritage with sustainability can reach these values-driven consumers. Conclusion: From Chaos to Opportunity The industry’s “Perfect Chaos Storm” offers an opportunity to recalibrate. Brands that close the perception gap and reclaim cultural relevance will be positioned to thrive. Andjelic’s insights underscore that, in luxury, success depends on deep cultural alignment and consumer resonance. This series underscores that to transform from mere survivors of this storm to leaders, brands must rethink traditional assumptions, focusing on authentic connections and adaptive strategies. #LuxuryMarket #CulturalRelevance #FashionTrends #ChinaLuxury #AnaAndjelic #SoftPower

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Business of Fashion published this Op-Ed in 2015. Nearly 10 years and many essays and interviews later, it leads directly to "Under the Banyan Tree: Buyers and Suppliers in Fashion," launching 10/31. BoF coverage is primarily luxury, runway, merchants and designers. How do you draw interest to the less glamorous side of a complex business? Luxury is craft merchandising plagued by excess inventory, especially now. Process, data, productivity, finance and sustainability are dreadfully dull words, but they matter and BoF editors know readers need to hear them. Doug Stephens and I have tried to address fashion’s yin and yang -- the front and back of the house -- with insight that is more than opinion and concept. I appreciate the BoF gauntlet of review over several years, proof-tests by insiders to illuminate under-estimated, misunderstood value in the upstream supply chain. In 2024, an alternative approach to fashion is in case studies with participants who are creating market value and social impact ..."Under the Banyan Tree." Vikram Alexei Kansara Imran Amed Doug Stephens Brian Baskin Lauren Sherman Chantal Fernandez InternationalApparel Federation (IAF) International Trade Centre

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